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Tudor’s Black Bay 58 18K Finally Has a Matching Solid Gold Bracelet Worn & Wound
Tudor s Black Bay 58 Apr 19, 2024

Tudor’s Black Bay 58 18K Finally Has a Matching Solid Gold Bracelet

In the pantheon of modern enthusiast brands, it’s hard to deny that Tudor sits at the top of the heap. One simple explanation for this is that Tudor is really good at giving us what we want - almost. They also have a history of giving us something exceedingly close to exactly what we ask for, with a slight twist, then having us fall in love with it anyway. When Tudor introduced the Black Bay 58, it was a clear winner. If you’ve ever been to an event where watch collectors gather en masse you’re sure to have run into one. But the original black colorway, with its heavily vintage coloring and gilt accents, wasn’t quite the modern aesthetic some people were looking for. That watch came three years later when Tudor dropped the Black Bay 58 Blue kind of out of nowhere on a random day in July 2020 (although pretty much any day that summer would have felt decidedly random). The Black Bay 58 was off like a rocket. So it wasn’t much of a surprise when, in 2021, Tudor released two more versions of the 58. What was a massive surprise was that the two new additions to the lineup were each made in precious metal. Naturally, people had thoughts. I, for one, was on board with the move, and the Black Bay 58 925 Silver is easily one of my favorite Tudors. For as much as people seemed to generally like these watches, there was a clear sense that something was missing. That something was a bracelet. Now, Tudor has solved that problem, at least for the Black Bay 58 18K. In just ab...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay Master Chronometer Vs. Rolex Submariner 124060 Fratello
Tudor Black Bay Master Chronometer Apr 14, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay Master Chronometer Vs. Rolex Submariner 124060

It’s Sunday morning! To be more exact, it’s the Sunday of Watches and Wonders. It’s the last day of this year’s fair before it’s in the history books. With the Fratello team back home and the Genevan dust clouds starting to settle, it’s time for our first Sunday Morning Showdown featuring one of the novelties […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay Master Chronometer Vs. Rolex Submariner 124060 to read the full article.

Introducing: A Comprehensive Guide To Vintage Swiss Watches Fratello
Nivada Grenchen Antarctic - Apr 7, 2024

Introducing: A Comprehensive Guide To Vintage Swiss Watches

A little while ago, a copy of vintage watch collector Aashdin K. Billimoria’s new book landed on my desk. That name might ring a bell for you as he’s also the author of Nivada Grenchen Antarctic - The History of a Legend. And now he’s proudly presenting his book titled A Comprehensive Guide to Vintage […] Visit Introducing: A Comprehensive Guide To Vintage Swiss Watches to read the full article.

Five Great Titanium Sports Watches Under $5,000 Worn & Wound
Rolex Mar 21, 2024

Five Great Titanium Sports Watches Under $5,000

Sports watches have been produced primarily in stainless steel throughout their history, with the occasional special release of precious metal variants. Recently though, titanium has taken the spotlight as an improved alternative to even high-end stainless steel alloys like 904L used by Rolex. Titanium is touted as lighter, stronger, more corrosion and scratch resistant – but is it aesthetically as attractive as stainless steel? This would depend on personal taste, and it would also come down to many aspects that can only be judged from a watchmaker’s viewpoint. Some watch brands, and specific models of watches from these brands, are going to vary greatly in the quality of titanium they choose and the level of detail and craftsmanship they’re going to dedicate to a titanium sports watch variant. It is indeed possible to make a titanium watch a work of art in its own right in comparison to stainless steel, but it will always have a darker more tool-like luster to it than our favourite tried and true metal. Titanium is also harder to work with, and requires more time and precision to shape into a watch case, bracelet, or even a small part like the crown – with these challenges comes the average watch collector’s largest obstacle: an increased price point.  Someday, if it’s lucky, this titanium could become a watch There’s a few common grades of titanium watchmakers have been working with, with Rolex always setting the premium standard and using a special alloy...

Chronomètre Artisans Subscription Edition by Simon Brette: Sensational, Superlative, and Simply Sublime Independent Watchmaking Quill & Pad
MB&F; Mar 17, 2024

Chronomètre Artisans Subscription Edition by Simon Brette: Sensational, Superlative, and Simply Sublime Independent Watchmaking

Simon Brette is a young movement designer with a history of working with Jean-François Mojon’s Chronode, MCT, and MB&F;, who has now begun his own adventure of pushing the boundaries of traditional haute horlogerie. Brette launches his eponymous brand with the Chronomètre Artisans Subscription Edition, which sold out long before launch.

#TBT A Black-Dialed Solitaire - An Excelsior Park “Olimpico” Chronograph With A Pulsation Track Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Mar 14, 2024

#TBT A Black-Dialed Solitaire - An Excelsior Park “Olimpico” Chronograph With A Pulsation Track

Excelsior Park holds quite a special place in watchmaking history. It was a fine-quality watch manufacturer, but the company’s name remains unknown to many today. The reason is simple: EP mostly delivered cases and movements to other familiar watch brands, including Zenith, Girard-Perregaux, and Gallet. Applying the rule of thumb when randomly browsing vintage watch […] Visit #TBT A Black-Dialed Solitaire - An Excelsior Park “Olimpico” Chronograph With A Pulsation Track to read the full article.

First Look – Bulgari Drops a new Octo Finissimo Automatic Sketch Dial for its 140th Anniversary Monochrome
Bulgari Drops Mar 13, 2024

First Look – Bulgari Drops a new Octo Finissimo Automatic Sketch Dial for its 140th Anniversary

Introduced over 10 years ago (time flies…), Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo collection has become one of the most successful sagas in recent watchmaking history. Not only did these watches break one record for thinness after another, but they also redefined the concept of the ultra-thin watch with a contemporary design and a casual attire. For the […]

Tissot PR516 Chronograph Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot Feb 27, 2024

Tissot PR516 Chronograph Review

Founded in 1853 in the Swiss Jura town of Le Locle, Tissot is today one of the largest Swiss watchmakers in the world, with a vast and diverse collection of timepieces, from dressy to sporty to high-tech, all offering one of the industry’s best value propositions across the board. Throughout its history, and starting as early as 1938, when a Tissot watch was used to time a series of Alpine ski races, Tissot has also been a watchmaker with close ties to sports - from tennis’s Davis Cup in 1957, to its close timing partnerships with bicycling and motorcycling championships from the 1980s to today, to its recent high-profile status as official timing partner of the NBA. And while Tissot is probably not the first brand that leaps to mind when you think of motorsports-inspired timepieces, it was indisputably one of the pioneers of that genre, a style most clearly and boldly expressed in the PR516 collection, a mainstay of the Tissot portfolio that has undergone a significant, vintage-inspired refresh in 2024.  Tissot’s association with motor racing, and the seed from which the original PR 516 (originally spelled with a space between letters and numerals, and later hyphenated) would spring, began with what was essentially a fan letter from a satisfied customer. In 1958, Tissot received a signed photograph from a Swiss racing driver named Harry Zweifel, which was accompanied by a note in German that read, “Meine Tissot ist an jedem Rennen dabei,” or “My Tissot is ...

Three Young Watch Designers To Keep An Eye On Fratello
Feb 20, 2024

Three Young Watch Designers To Keep An Eye On

As watch enthusiasts, we love to look back. We point at history’s legendary watch designers as the high priests of our shared passion. We are so focused on history that we may sometimes overlook today’s talents. Luckily, there still are gifted young professionals coming through the ranks. Today, I would like to put a little […] Visit Three Young Watch Designers To Keep An Eye On to read the full article.

Breitling Top Time Watch Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Breitling Feb 13, 2024

Breitling Top Time Watch Guide

When you think of James Bond watches, the first models that likely come to mind would probably be from Omega, or Rolex, or - depending on which Bond era you prefer - maybe even Seiko. But one of the most memorable wristwatch scenes in Bond’s cinematic history has a Breitling as its star.   In 1965’s Thunderball, the fourth movie in the popular series starring Ian Fleming’s Agent 007, star Sean Connery spends most of his screen time wearing the same watch that he wore in his previous three outings as Bond: a Rolex Submariner Ref. 6538, now known by many collectors as the quintessential “James Bond Rolex.” However, in one key scene, Bond swaps out the Submariner for another watch: a heavily modified Breitling Top Time Ref. 2002, a steel-cased, black-dialed chronograph with two white subdials, applied baton hour markers, and a tachymeter scale surrounding the dial. (The actual watch is pictured above, sans strap, photo via Christie's.) In the movie’s fictional universe, the watch - one of many gadget-packed timepieces assigned to Bond by MI-6 weapons supplier Q throughout the film series - is also equipped with a built-in Geiger counter; Bond uses it to track a cache of stolen nuclear warheads hidden deep underwater by his adversaries from the criminal organization SPECTRE.  The watch was the only Breitling ever worn by any James Bond actor on screen - though, interestingly enough, another Breitling, a Navitimer 806, also appeared briefly in Thunderbal...

Why I Bought It: Collector Koen Simon And His IWC Reference 504 ‘Türler’ Quill & Pad
IWC Reference 504 ‘Türler’ Every Feb 11, 2024

Why I Bought It: Collector Koen Simon And His IWC Reference 504 ‘Türler’

Every day Koen Simon looks out for special watches, and a couple months ago he noticed an IWC on an online marketplace that looked rather odd because of three things: the shape of the case, the dial, and a "Türler" signature. So he investigated the history of this beautiful watch and now shares his rather personal love story with it here.

A Time Tour Of London: Horological Highlights In England’s Premier City Fratello
Jan 31, 2024

A Time Tour Of London: Horological Highlights In England’s Premier City

The history of London spans thousands of years. It is a city built over cities, with the ancient past still present just beneath the surface. As the seat of power for the British Empire, London amassed incredible goods, technologies, and minds. Some of the best devices that measure time and the people who made them […] Visit A Time Tour Of London: Horological Highlights In England’s Premier City to read the full article.

Fears and Topper Jewelers Team Up for a Tribute to Winters in Northern California Worn & Wound
Fears Jan 19, 2024

Fears and Topper Jewelers Team Up for a Tribute to Winters in Northern California

It’s hard to think of Fears as anything other than a quintessentially British watch brand. They were an early member of the British Watch & Clock Makers Alliance, and the brand has a long and proud history of making watches in the UK. They’ve also leaned into creating limited editions that trade on British culture, like the Jubilee Edition version of the Brunswick that popped up in 2022. So their latest effort, a second collaboration with California based Topper Jewelers, is perhaps a bit surprising. But it’s reflective of the fact that in just a few short years since Fears was formally relaunched, they’ve achieved a massive footprint for such a small brand, and have landed a worldwide following.  The Fears Brunswick 40 Topper Edition Series II is a small collection of four watches with 25 examples made of each variant. It’s an expansion of the first collaboration between Topper and Fears, which consisted of two limited edition variants. The premise behind this collection is that each of the four dials reflect a different aspect of the natural beauty of Northern California winters, and each, naturally, displays the time on a “California” style dial, a mix of Roman and Arabic numerals.  Each dial is a whimsical take on Northern California nature, and reflects a region with a huge variety of beautiful places to explore, even in the cold winter months. The “Whiteout” is, you guessed it, white, with a stamped guilloche texture and lacquer coating that is me...

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Review Teddy Baldassarre
Patek Philippe Jan 5, 2024

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Review

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut is one of the younger members in Patek Philippe’s historic family of timepieces but it has already gained an avid following and represents to many collectors the most accessible entrée into the Swiss watchmaker’s luxurious universe. Here is everything you need to know about the Aquanaut, from its origins to its current status as a versatile and wide-ranging collection. A History of Watchmaking Milestones Since its founding in 1839 in Geneva, Patek Philippe has been a leader in high watchmaking, pioneering many complications and design elements that are now ubiquitous throughout the watch industry. Polish watchmakers Antoine Norbert de Patek and Francois Czapek partnered to form the original company, Patek, Czapek, & Cie.; French horologist Jean Adrien Philippe, who invented the keyless winding and setting system still standard on watches today, joined in 1845, and the Genevan manufacture has been known as Patek Philippe ever since. Among its many horological milestones are the first annual calendar watch and the first wristwatches with perpetual calendars and split-seconds chronographs. In 1932, brothers Jean and Henri Stern acquired Patek Philippe and the same year launched the watch that would become its signature, the Calatrava (above), inspired by the ancient Calatrava cross that had served as the maison’s logo since 1887. The following year, Patek Philippe made timekeeping history when it commissioned a record-setting complicated ...

Legendary Marvel Comics Illustrator Adam Kubert on his Forthcoming Citizen x Marvel Collaboration Worn & Wound
Citizen x Marvel Collaboration If Dec 21, 2023

Legendary Marvel Comics Illustrator Adam Kubert on his Forthcoming Citizen x Marvel Collaboration

If you’re a fan of Marvel Comics or the Marvel Cinematic Universe, then you’re in for a treat, as Adam Kubert – true comic book royalty – has established a relationship with Citizen, illustrating Marvel characters on watch dials. As watch enthusiasts, I know you won’t shy away from a history lesson. So, before I launch into my interview with Adam, it’s important to understand the impact the Kubert family has had for over 70 years in comics. The prolific Joe Kubert, Adam’s father (who we lost back in 2012), began illustrating comics in the 1940s. He became renowned for his work, especially with DC Comics characters like Sgt. Rock and Hawkman. Joe Kubert was also the founder of The Kubert School in Dover, New Jersey that is still the only accredited school dedicated entirely to cartooning. The institution is responsible for churning out many of the great illustrators we have today. Adam Kubert and his brother, Andy Kubert, went on to become staples in the comic book industry, as well as teachers at The Kubert School. Adam and Andy’s niece, Katie Kubert, was an editor for both Marvel and DC Comics, and Andy’s daughter Emma Kubert is also a comic book illustrator. In essence, not only does talent for art and storytelling run in the blood, but for decades they’ve instilled that creativity in others.  Adam has been in comics for five decades, illustrating comics for 35 years, the last 30 with Marvel, and has been hands-on with all our favorite characters: W...

How does a watch dial turn tropical? Time+Tide
Dec 5, 2023

How does a watch dial turn tropical?

Throughout history, it’s generally been assumed that something is worth more when it’s in better condition. But just as pre-ripped jeans found their popularity in the 1970s, it’s becoming more and more common to prefer things aged. Well-weathered objects tell a story, and whether or not you think it’s cheating to replicate that look artificially, … ContinuedThe post How does a watch dial turn tropical? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar Reference 3541: An Oft-Forgotten Eternal Gem – Reprise Quill & Pad
IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar Reference Nov 5, 2023

IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar Reference 3541: An Oft-Forgotten Eternal Gem – Reprise

IWC is a brand with a rich history, and it is in the fortunate position that each of its collections has an almost equal share in building this history. The Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar, developed by IWC's master watchmaker Kurt Klaus, was a horological revolution. And from it came this elegant Portofino variation of the 1990s.

Hands On: An Impressively Preserved Rolex Ref. 6062 SJX Watches
Rolex Ref 6062 Arguably Nov 1, 2023

Hands On: An Impressively Preserved Rolex Ref. 6062

Arguably the most storied Rolex model in history, more so than the “Paul Newman” Daytona, the ref. 6062 triple calendar is beautiful, and unusually for Rolex, complicated. At the same time, the ref. 6062 boasts the trademark water-resistant Oyster case, something that its closest cousin, the ref. 8171 “Padellone” triple calendar, lacks. Soon to go under the hammer at Phillips in Geneva is a particularly impressive example of the ref. 6062. While there have been more storied examples of the ref. 6062 sold in recent years – including the “Bao Dai” owned by the last emperor of Vietnam – the upcoming ref. 6062 is possibly the best preserved. It is a steel example, and while a steel ref. 6062 is rare, the condition of this watch truly sets it apart. The case appears original in shape and detail, though it shows wear; modest wear considering the seven decades since the watch was made. Phillips describes the case as “unpolished” and while that cannot be ascertained with absolutely certainty, the claim is certainly a credible one. The Oyster case has its full shape, defined edges, and even the tiny step at the very top of the bezel where it meets the crystal. More so than any of the other external components, the case back of this model typically shows the most obvious wear as the engravings are shallow. But here the original engravings look almost like they did fresh out of the factory, right down to the rectangular blocks separating the two lines of text. Int...