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A Week In Watches, Episode. 65: Seiko Prospex Welcomes New Land References; Baltic Changes Course Worn & Wound
Montblanc /Minerva Oct 15, 2023

A Week In Watches, Episode. 65: Seiko Prospex Welcomes New Land References; Baltic Changes Course

A Week In Watches returns with big news from Seiko, who revealed a pair of new Prospex references which celebrate the brand’s history in land-based watches. The pair of limited editions each pick up something special from Seiko’s history, starting with the SPB411 GMT, a watch that recalls the Navigator Timer of the ’60s, which was Seiko first GMT to feature a rotating bezel. The second is a revival of the Landmaster in celebration of its 30th anniversary, where Seiko has brought back the 3 dimensional compass bezel and blue gradient dial. Both work exceptionally well, and highlight the brand’s deep tool watch roots at their very best. Elsewhere we were thrilled to see a new release from Baltic this week, which shifted away from old-school-cool dive watches and put focus on classic field watches. The frame works brilliantly here with lumed applied numerals, a svelte case, and a trick crown that sits flush with the case wall. The watch boasts 4 different dials at launch, and is a welcome expansion of the brand’s refined sense of design. Finally, new releases from Nomos and Ming, as well as a collaboration between Montblanc/Minerva and Collective round out the news that’s caught our attention this week. Catch the full episode below for the run down, and be sure to leave a comment on your thoughts in the video for us to highlight in the next episode. Thanks to this week’s sponsor, Shinola, for their support. To commemorate 10 years of American design and manufact...

Everything you need to know about Glashütte Original Time+Tide
Glashütte Original Oct 14, 2023

Everything you need to know about Glashütte Original

The history of the Glashütte watchmaking region is truly fascinating, having survived all kinds of turmoil from poor mining returns, natural disasters and wars. In spite of this, it was the star of Germany’s watchmaking capability for centuries. Glashütte Original’s founding was not a typical one for a watch company, tracing its roots either to … ContinuedThe post Everything you need to know about Glashütte Original appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Yema Debuts a Surprising Tourbillon to Celebrate their 75th Anniversary Worn & Wound
Yema Oct 6, 2023

Yema Debuts a Surprising Tourbillon to Celebrate their 75th Anniversary

Celebrating 75 years in business, French watchmakers Yema have recently released their Yachtingraf Tourbillon Maréographe, a tribute to classic design and Franco-Swiss watchmaking mastery. Ringing in a milestone is never an easy feat; but, somehow, Yema has been able to accomplish not only a timeless design, but something that showcases the pursuit of excellence that has defined the brand over the course of its history.  Don’t let the plain black and steel (or bronze) design fool you – this watch is anything but simple. Yema has incorporated a balance between yachting heritage design and function to show what this watch is capable of – while also doing it with a certain je nais sais quoi, courtesy of a somewhat unexpected tourbillon caliber. The tourbillon is visible at the 6 o’clock mark, giving one an interior look into the precision mechanisms of this masterpiece. Opposite that, at the 12 hour, the Maréographe has a unique lunar time complication with a display of tide cycles, complete with a decorative bearing the traditional Yema “Y” logo. While maybe not part of your day-to-day needs, it’s nonetheless a showing of Yema’s technical capabilities and a bit of a unique offering for an important anniversary. This watch measures in at 42.5 mm, giving it a sense of presence on the wrist that matches the various finishes of the design. The rotating bezel is beautifully crafted with additional scratch protection, while the double-domed sapphire crystal will...

Collective Horology Introduces their Latest Limited Edition, a Collaboration with Montblanc Featuring a Gorgeous Minerva Caliber Worn & Wound
Montblanc Featuring Oct 3, 2023

Collective Horology Introduces their Latest Limited Edition, a Collaboration with Montblanc Featuring a Gorgeous Minerva Caliber

Collective Horology, the private watch club/independent brand retailer/producer of thoughtful limited editions, is back with their latest release in an ongoing series of collaborations. This time, they’re working with Montblanc, tapping into the brand’s association with the historic Minerva manufacture, maker of some of the most important chronograph calibers in the history of watchmaking. The 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph “Blue Arrow” P.05 is a high end “What if…?” hypothetical come to life, and a great showcase for a truly special movement. As with all Collective limited editions, this one is something more than a reissue or a tweaked colorway. It exists to tell a specific story about the brand in a way that can often only be done from the outside.  According to Collective, the seed of inspiration for the P.05 came from Eric Wind, or more specifically a watch in his case at the 2022 Windup Watch Fair. That year, Eric brought a Minerva stopwatch to the show, and it reminded Collective founders Gabe Reilly and Asher Rapkin of Minerva’s sporting roots, opening up a series of entirely new design possibilities. The 1858 Monopusher Chronograph that Collective and Montblanc came up with drew on the sportier design cues from that stopwatch, including the colors, finishing techniques, and the case material (robust stainless steel, of course). The end result is a chronograph that has many key vintage inspired design elements that are core to Montblanc and Mi...

How marine chronometers shaped horology today Time+Tide
Sep 5, 2023

How marine chronometers shaped horology today

Navigation is definitely taken for granted these days. Not that I don’t personally rely on Google Maps to take me pretty much everywhere, but the art of traversing the globe was one of the most difficult, frightening, and often heroic skills for thousands of years in human history. As if finding your way through icy … ContinuedThe post How marine chronometers shaped horology today appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Evolution of Social Media Watch Photographs Part 3: Storytelling, Collaboration, and a Bunch of Boobs Quill & Pad
Aug 30, 2023

Evolution of Social Media Watch Photographs Part 3: Storytelling, Collaboration, and a Bunch of Boobs

It’s already time for the latest update in GaryG`s series of articles providing a completely subjective, unscientific, and unofficial history of watch photographs online. The big trend he has recently seen is the emergence of storytelling as a dominant theme in how watches are displayed. And while he lauds the rise to prominence of many more women among the population of online watch shooters and commentators, the emergence of boob shots with a watch hardly "empowers women" . . . or does it?

Three Pilot’s Watches for Any Budget – Windup Watch Shop Worn & Wound
Seiko 5 Sports’ SRPH29 Aug 6, 2023

Three Pilot’s Watches for Any Budget – Windup Watch Shop

Pilot Watches are an excellent option for everyday wear. They’re bold, legible, and have some serious history behind them. Right up there with the field watch, Pilot watches are iconic military-style watches which have carried over into the civilian world extraordinarily well. There are a few classic elements that make a watch a pilot’s watch, the most notable being a triangle index at 12, a large and legible hand set, and a case that rides on the larger side. Today, we’re highlighting three picks from the shop that scratch that pilot watch itch at any budget. Under $500 is Seiko 5 Sports’ SRPH29, at right around $1000 is the Laco Paderborn, and in the $2000 range is Oris’ modern take on the pilot’s watch. Let’s dig in and take a closer look. Pilot Watches are an excellent option for everyday wear. They’re bold, legible, and have some serious history behind them. Right up there with the field watch, Pilot watches are iconic military-style watches which have carried over into the civilian world extraordinarily well. There are a few classic elements that make a watch a pilot’s watch, the most notable being a triangle index at 12, a large and legible hand set, and a case that rides on the larger side. Today, we’re highlighting three picks from the shop that scratch that pilot watch itch at any budget. Under $500 is Seiko 5 Sports’ SRPH29, at right around $1000 is the Laco Paderborn, and in the $2000 range is Oris’ modern take on the pilot’s watch. ...

Swatch Asks “What If?” with their New Collection of Square, Bioceramic Watches Worn & Wound
Swatch Aug 3, 2023

Swatch Asks “What If?” with their New Collection of Square, Bioceramic Watches

Alternative realities have long held the imagination of humans. From ancient Roman historian, Livy, to 20th century physicist, Hugh Everett, to Marvel movies of today, we have long tried to answer the question of, “What if…” Now, Swatch has taken it upon themselves to ask this very question in their latest collection, aptly titled WHAT IF? To understand this new release, one must look back into Swatch’s history for a moment. In 1982, the Swiss watch brand had a choice between a round or square model that would be their inaugural design. While we all know the circular design that has become standard for Swatch, WHAT IF? is an alternative reality of sorts, showing us what could have been, had they gone with a square dial from the beginning. Four colorways are available in the WHAT IF? collection, including black, gray, beige, and green. While these may seem like a complete 180 from the vibrant colorways that are now synonymous with Swatch, the neutral tones of the WHAT IF? series reflect the design sensibilities of the early 1980s – which somehow still feel modern today. Each model in the series is made from Swatch’s proprietary bioceramic material (a phrase you’ll know if you were a fan of their MoonSwatch release last year). Mixing ceramic powder with bio sourced materials, bioceramic is inherently durable without added weight or bulk, making it a perfect material for an everyday timepiece like those in the Swatch collection. Each reference clocks in at 33mm,...

Collector Commissions: Two Watches from Independent Torsti Laine for San Francisco’s 49 Crowns – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jul 23, 2023

Collector Commissions: Two Watches from Independent Torsti Laine for San Francisco’s 49 Crowns – Reprise

The history of commissioned timepieces is a long and colorful one, but collector group commissions are perhaps a more recent phenomenon. GaryG recently met with Adam Eisendrath of San Francisco-based collectors 49 Crowns to learn more about the club and to check out two customized watches commissioned from Swiss-based Finnish independent Torsti Laine.

Highlights: Sotheby’s Hong Kong Fine Watches Online SJX Watches
Patek Philippe complications Jul 5, 2023

Highlights: Sotheby’s Hong Kong Fine Watches Online

The summer tends to be a quiet period in the watch world since most of Switzerland goes on holiday. However, Sotheby’s Hong Kong is staging one major event before the summer lull with an online sale running for just over a week. Fine Watches opens on July 5th and runs until the 14th featuring 272 lots ranging from Patek Philippe complications to simple time-only Cartier. We cover highlights from the sale below – the catalogue can be seen here – but before that we look at something special. Happening alongside the online auction is a sealed auction for an Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 5002P-013 with a custom-order black dial that runs online from July 13-21. The ref. 5002P once held the title of most complicated wristwatch Patek Philippe ever produced and remains a landmark in Patek Philippe watchmaking. Not only is this ref. 5002P possibly unique thanks to the striking black dial, it is also double sealed – in other words brand new. Since 2017 Patek Philippe has banned its retailers from selling sealed watches and so an double-sealed example of a special-order grand complication on the secondary market is rare. This double-dial complication offers an incredible opportunity to collectors, since the last time we saw this a sealed example of this reference at auction was back in 2018 at Antiquorum where it sold for just under US$1.2 million, and that was just single sealed. Prices have naturally climbed since then. In fact, this example mirrors the one that ...

Patek Philippe Announces “Tribute to Philippe Stern” for Only Watch 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Announces “Tribute Jun 29, 2023

Patek Philippe Announces “Tribute to Philippe Stern” for Only Watch 2023

Patek Philippe has a history at Only Watch of producing groundbreaking Grand Complications, displaying what it is capable of at the highest end of watchmaking. The table clock from 2021 or the Grandmaster Chime from 2019 both exemplify these virtues. And it would appear that it is going to continue down this road with this year’s instalment as it introduces a Grand Complication in tribute to Philippe Stern, Patek Phillippe Honorary President and father to the brand’s current President, Thierry Stern.  Philippe Stern (left) and Thierry Stern (right). While the details of this piece are currently lacking somewhat, the brand has announced that it has developed an entirely new movement for this watch and it features Philippe Stern’s favourite Grand Complication.  This will not just be a one off either, the first one made will be of a unique design and auctioned at Only Watch, but after that Patek will go on to produce 30 more, in a strictly limited run, after which the movement will never be used again.  This November Philippe Stern is set to turn 85, his son was quoted saying this about the upcoming watch, “this is a way of thanking him for everything he taught me and all the passion for excellence that he deployed in favour of Patek Philippe.” There will be more details about this watch to follow, with the auction being conducted by Christie’s at Palexpo in Geneva on November 5. 

Breitling Launches a Pair of Motorcycle Themed Collaborations in their Permanent Collection Worn & Wound
Breitling Launches Jun 23, 2023

Breitling Launches a Pair of Motorcycle Themed Collaborations in their Permanent Collection

Breitling’s long history has continuously been dotted with opportunities to push the brand forward and introduce a new crowd to the Swiss brand. One way to do this is through a continued focus on partnering with brands that complement the Breitling’s mythology, particularly those with a focus on adventure, speed, and adrenaline. Take, for example, the latest releases from Breitling’s Top Time line-up. Originally designed in the 1960’s by Willy Breitling, grandson of the family company’s founder Léon, as a response to the growing interest in motosports. The popular model, worn by design aficionados and 007’s alike, has only increased in popularity over its six-decade span. Now, both Triumph and Deus Ex Machina are putting their own spin on the Top Time platform once again, after a series of previous successful collaborations along similar lines. Released this week, both the Top Time B01 Triumph and Top Time B01 Deus nod to the freewheeling spirit of the decades before while situating their own mark on the brand for the modern wearer. Both the Triumph and the Deus follow a blueprint established in previous collaborations, including the ice blue dial on the Triumph and playful accents on the Deus, but the new watches feature Breitling’s B01 chronograph caliber, whereas the earlier references used an ETA derived Caliber 23. That upgraded caliber is housed within the same 41mm stainless steel case as its predecessors. Often called the “unconventional chronograp...

Patek Philippe Nautilus: Analysis of How Prices Have Changed Over Four Years – Reprise Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Nautilus Analysis Jun 11, 2023

Patek Philippe Nautilus: Analysis of How Prices Have Changed Over Four Years – Reprise

How much does a Patek Philippe Nautilus cost? How will Nautilus prices evolve? Answering these questions, as relevant as they are, has become extremely difficult following the bubble formed in the luxury men’s watch market. This article analyzes the price history of 31 Patek Philippe Nautilus models, revealing the models that have gained an absolute value, the most dramatic relative increases, and the influence of case and bracelet material.

WHAT IF… TAG Heuer created their own MoonSwatch moment with a retro Formula 1? Time+Tide
TAG Heuer created their own MoonSwatch May 28, 2023

WHAT IF… TAG Heuer created their own MoonSwatch moment with a retro Formula 1?

Welcome to another episode of WHAT IF…, where we ruminate on the alternate reality of a watch industry in a parallel universe. For this installment, we take a look at TAG Heuer’s Formula 1, a legendary part of horological history, famed not for its elevated status, but for its fun-loving appeal to even non-watch people. … ContinuedThe post WHAT IF… TAG Heuer created their own MoonSwatch moment with a retro Formula 1? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jack Mason develops a new collection comprising a GMT and a diver Time+Tide
Rolex May 8, 2023

Jack Mason develops a new collection comprising a GMT and a diver

Some of the most iconic models in the history of horology became so because they offered something unique. A new case design or a new concept, that was then transferred to new types of watches. Take Rolex for example. The brand developed the Submariner and then adapted the case and dial design to make a … ContinuedThe post Jack Mason develops a new collection comprising a GMT and a diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Frederique Constant celebrates 35 years with three new releases Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin May 2, 2023

Frederique Constant celebrates 35 years with three new releases

Established in 1988, Frederique Constant is a relatively new player on the Swiss watch scene with a mere 35 years under its belt – a blink in the eye of the likes of Vacheron Constantin. Despite its comparatively shorter history, the brand has still garnered worldwide success on the back of solid, classic design and quality … ContinuedThe post Frederique Constant celebrates 35 years with three new releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.