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Time+Tide
It's an unremarkable scene. One person gifting a watch to another. But there is one detail us watch lovers won't miss.The post What a scene from The Recruit teaches us about gifting a watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
When the Boeing 747 was revealed to the world in 1968, it instantly introduced a new era in air travel. Those in attendance, press and interested aviators alike, had no words for what they were looking at. The sheer size of the aircraft and its distinct upward curve above the flight deck was nothing like any other plane that was carrying passengers 30,000 feet up in the air at the time. It quickly became a coveted experience to travel in a Boeing 747, and that’s saying something considering this was a time where people got dressed up to fly in an airplane. Not like now, where sweatpants, a cozy hoodie, and noise canceling headphones are the norm. Flying back then was an event. The lore of the Boeing 747 only grew, as it was featured in many films including the 1973 James Bond flick, Live and Let Die. Even till this very day, the 747 is the aircraft of choice for the President of the United States. Introducing For The First Time Ever, The Boeing 747 But like all good things, they must come to an end. After 1,570 individual jets and 53 years of navigating the skies, the Boeing 747 has finally decided to retire. And to celebrate the original jumbo jet, Breitling has released a limited edition piece in partnership with Boeing called the Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Boeing 747. Breitling has a history that is deep rooted in aviation. Their very first designs, from dial layout to various complications, were created with pilots in mind. With both brands having a rich heritage i...
Deployant
We were offered to try out the new Alpa 12 STC Silver Edition by Alpa of Switzerland, and the package arrived. And here is review, after one month's use.
SJX Watches
Having teased about a new innovation on social media for several weeks, specifically a “tiny device” that would be a game-changer for the Speedmaster, Omega has finally revealed the Speedmaster Super Racing. But the star of the show is not the watch but actually the technology in the all-new silicon hairspring within the latest Speedmaster. Known as Spirate, a portmanteau of “silicon” and “rate”, the new hairspring has a proprietary form that allows a watchmaker to vary the tension along its length, theoretically enabling fine adjustment of up to a tenth of a second. The result is a watch certified to have a daily rate of 0/+2 seconds, the most stringent timekeeping criteria amongst Omega watches. Initial thoughts While it is a given that Omega debuts a new Speedmaster every year, several of them at a go in fact, the revolutionary innovation in the hairspring was unexpected (though anyone who was trawling the Swiss patent registry would have gotten some hints). The patented Spirate hairspring The technical innovation behind Spirate is unquestionable, though the benefit to the wearer is probably less than the advantage it brings Omega in terms of streamlining regulation during production and assembly. And when Omega starts equipping its offerings with Spirate on a large scale, it will be an achievement from the perspective of industrial production. As for the Speedmaster Super Racing itself, well, the watch is less than spectacular. Visually it’s sim...
Time+Tide
The Hamilton Jazzmaster Face-2-Face III is released 10 years after the original version. The Face-2-Face III ditches the oval shape for a round one. It’s limited to 999 pieces. Hamilton definitely aren’t the first brand to come to mind when the topic of reversible watches comes up. However, as more independent brands tackle the flipping … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Jazzmaster Face-2-Face III appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Today, Omega has unveiled a new Speedmaster that their social media team has been teasing aggressively for the past few weeks. They promised a “tiny device” delivering a “massive change,” and to that end the announcement today is really more about mechanics than a new watch. There is a new watch, of course, but to the extent that today’s news excites you, it will almost certainly be a result of a very small component that Omega has completely rethought. The Speedmaster Super Racing is the first timepiece from Omega to feature what they’re calling “Spirate” technology. Spirate is essentially a new method of movement regulation by way of a small knob connected to the balance that allows a watchmaker to adjust the rate in increments down to the tenth of a second. Omega claims that the end result is a movement that’s accurate to within 0/+2 seconds per day. Again, this is a mechanical movement that is, yes, METAS certified to be within two seconds per day. That’s Spring Drive level accuracy, without the benefit of quartz derived regulation. Assuming Spirate works as advertised (there’s no reason not to assume that given Omega’s proficiency in making highly accurate movements at a large scale) this is an enormously impressive accomplishment. How does it work, exactly? Omega had to develop an entirely new silicon balance spring that can be adjusted for stiffness via a mechanism connected to the balance bridge (easily visible through the sapphire caseb...
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Seiko Automatic Alarm Bell-Matic You can never go wrong with vintage Seiko, especially when it’s a Bell-Matic alarm! Of course, we all have alarms on our phones, but then again, we also have clocks and we’re wearing watches right? The Bell-Matic alarms are killer, and their little chirping sound is just so cool. This model is an early one, from 1971 and has a nice chunky 70’s style cushion case. The 38mm wide case looks superb and unpolished with the original brushed finish. The crown is unsigned which is correct. The silver dial is super clean and the watch runs and works as it should per the seller. And best of all it comes on its original ‘coffin link’ bracelet, so it’s ready to rock. View auction here. Elgin Black Knight Here’s a rare one for you bidding pleasure, the unique and iconic Elgin Black Knight. This design masterpiece hails from the 1950’s and just screams “Atomic Age” with its distinctive yellow gold fill case and lugs. I don’t even know how to properly describe them, but one look and you know it’s a Black Knight. The 28mm case is in excellent condition, with no wear through. The lugs are the star here, but the wide, flat bezel is quite ...
Worn & Wound
For the last few months, Christopher Ward has received an unprecedented amount of attention from watch media and the enthusiast public for the release of the Bel Canto, a genuine industry phenomenon that has won over collectors of all stripes. The release was honestly timed just about perfectly, allowing the brand to get it into the hands of fans just ahead of the holiday shopping season and all of the listmaking that tends to happen at the end of the year, where the Bel Canto figured prominently. Supplemental releases in additional colorways have since sold out, and it appears that CW is ready to ride the Bel Canto wave throughout 2023 as the chiming watch is delivered to anxiously awaiting enthusiasts. But the first non Bel Canto related release of the year is something of a return to Christopher Ward’s tool watch roots. No chiming here, and no exposed mechanisms on the dial, showing that Christopher Ward is not moving directly into the haute horlogery sphere just yet. The new C65 Dune series takes the popular C65 sports watch format into a desert inspired aesthetic. The trio of watches is named after Dune du Pilat, the tallest sand dune in Europe, and each watch makes use of tan and beige tones to underline a sandy theme. These are not hardcore tool watches in the traditional sense, though. They make use of Christopher Ward’s excellent “Light-Catcher” case finishing, which highlights unexpected bevels and undercuts in the complex case geometry and adds just a ...
Revolution
The Vulcain x Seconde Seconde x Revolution Cricket Tradition “Vulcain Salute” takes the Vulcain Cricket Tradition sublimely resurrected by Guillaume Laidet, and introduces the witty artistic flair of humorist, Romaric André, better known by his pseudonym Seconde Seconde. The running seconds hand has been replaced by an animated, colored rendition of the famous Vulcan salute […]
Worn & Wound
Let’s take just a minute with the entire range of Italian made, leather straps available here at the Windup Watch Shop. Hoyt, Roadster, Wyckoff, Degraw, and Sackett come in a wide variety of colors, with finishing that define them: the Hoyt with it’s matte leather and no-stitch design, the Roadster with it’s breathable, rally styling, the Wykoff with it’s pebble grain leather three quarter-stitched accents, the Degraw with it’s full-stitched nubuck upper leather, and the Sackett for that classic suede look with full-stitched accents. Let’s take just a minute with the entire range of Italian made, leather straps available here at the Windup Watch Shop. Hoyt, Roadster, Wyckoff, Degraw, and Sackett come in a wide variety of colors, with finishing that define them: the Hoyt with it’s matte leather and no-stitch design, the Roadster with it’s breathable, rally styling, the Wykoff with it’s pebble grain leather three quarter-stitched accents, the Degraw with it’s full-stitched nubuck upper leather, and the Sackett for that classic suede look with full-stitched accents. The post Just a Minute with Windup Watch Shop’s Italian Leather Straps appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Quill & Pad
Ken Gargett thinks that the Victor & Charles Karma champagne is an interesting addition to the champagne firmament and is certainly magnificently presented. And if anyone finds a practical purpose for that diamond, please let him know.
SJX Watches
First conceived over two decades ago, Power Design Project was an exercise in avant-garde watch design. After a 14-year hiatus, it has returned with Rebirth, an exhibition that will run until February 19, 2023, in Tokyo’s trendy Harajuku district. An annual affair centred on a specific theme each year, the original Power Design Project was an experimental programme spearheaded by independent industrial designer Naoto Fukasawa. Intended to inject new energy and ideas into the Seiko’s offerings, the original project invited designers, both in-house and external, to reimagine the concept of timekeeping. The project gave birth to unorthodox timepieces, including one that was a lightbulb with the filament forming the hands. The project has been revived with a showcase of seven timepieces, each originally an iconic brand design that has been reimagined for today – hence the exhibition theme, “rebirth”. By exploring the possibilities of a watch in both design, purpose, and function, Seiko is perhaps giving us a peek into the future of its watchmaking in the decades to come. For instance, Seiko’s famous “tuna” dive watch has been transformed into a watch for children. Presented in three colourways, blue, pink, and yellow, the “tuna” for kids is scaled down and made into robust watch for active children, echoing the purpose of the deep sea-diving original. “Shikakuro”, a modern take on the “Monaco” chronograph from 1971 “Radiant Time” is a King S...
SJX Watches
Last year, Zenith debuted the Defy Revival A3642 – a vintage-remake sports watch with an octagonal case and tetradecagonal bezel – to the delight of enthusiasts who were excited to see the return of this distinctive design. The only problem was the fact that it was limited to 250 pieces. Now the brand has introduced its regular-production version with the Defy Revival A3691 which has a ruby-red dial. Identical to the limited edition in form and dimension, the A3691 is a sturdy three-hander with a faithful vintage feel at an attractive price point. Initial thoughts Finally the Defy Revival is in regular production. With its vintage proportions and affordability, the watch was on my wish list as an alternative to mainstream sports watches, so I hope last year’s limited edition wasn’t a one-off. Seeing it make a comeback is a good thing, and the red dial certainly makes it more striking. While some may argue – with good reason – that this is merely a rehash of the original in a different colour. It is, but the A3691 is still a good product in terms of price-performance ratio. At US$6,900, the A3691 is well priced relative to the competition, both from other brands and even Zenith itself. Its modern equivalent, the Defy Skyline, costs about 20% more, albeit with a more refined case and bracelet. For anyone who wants a sports watch with a retro flavour and in-house movement that stands apart from mainstream offerings, the A3691 is a good contender. Last year’s...
Time+Tide
The new Hublot Classic Fusion Original collection pays homage to the watch that birthed the luxury watches on rubber trend.The post Hublot’s revival of the OG Classic Fusion is good. This would make it great… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Announcing the new Timex x Todd Snyder MK-1 Sky King chronograph watch. Check out specs, photos, pricing, and more from TBWS.
Worn & Wound
Isotope is a British watch brand that we’ve covered fairly extensively on Worn & Wound. They take a unique approach to watch design that incorporates a signature shape (the lacrima, resembling a teardrop) and frequently makes use of vibrant color. Their range of HydriumX divers are a lot of fun and have proven to be fan favorites, and I reviewed their GMT back in March of 2021. The brand lives and dies by their playful designs: some resonate strongly, but others simply may not strike a chord. That’s perfectly OK, though. It’s the cost of doing things your own way, and a natural side effect of operating within a design language that doesn’t rely too much on watch historical design tropes. So I was curious to check out one of their latest releases, the Old Radium Bronze Tobacco. The Old Radium line is Isotope’s take on a pilot’s watch, a genre that is well understood in the broader consciousness of watch collectors, and notably challenging to iterate on. Many brands issue pilot’s watches that effectively look the same, and only the most hardcore connoisseurs will pick out the seemingly smallest differences in dial layout, case shape, and so forth. Isotope’s approach with the Old Radium is actually quite similar to what they’re doing with dive watches via the HydriumX line: taking the frame of something common, and filling it with something whimsical. $1111 Hands-On with the Isotope Old Radium Bronze Tobacco Case Bronze Movement Landeron Automatic Dial Bro...
Worn & Wound
It’s safe to say that the Metric from our friends at Brew has struck a certain chord since its release in mid 2021. The watch is a perfect expression of the brand’s retro-modern design forward sensibilities, and it happens to be utterly fantastic on the wrist. We’ve seen a few other colorways pop up since its introduction, and at less than $500, supply can never never seem to keep up with demand. Today, the Brew Metric welcomes its chicest colorway to date: gold. The Metric Gold touts a full gold plated case and bracelet with a striking black dial beset with gold hands and markers. The Brew Metric Gold retains the 36mm x 41.5mm case dimensions (10.75mm in thickness) that we loved in the earlier variants, and embraces a clean pure gold and black colorway that works shockingly well in this design, which also did pretty well in its color-forward sporty guise. The dial design has been altered slightly, welcoming Arabic numerals in the rehaut marking each 5 minute segment. Gone is the subtle callout between the 25 and 35 second mark, which was a nod to the ideal brewing time for an espresso shot. Inside, Brew is using the hybrid vk68 meca-quartz chronograph, with a running seconds hand at 6 o’clock, and a minute totalizer at 9 o’clock. The TV shaped dial section is completely covered with a sapphire crystal, which is a welcome touch in this price range. A polished bevel along the side of the case meets the integrated(ish) flat link bracelet creating something of a s...
Time+Tide
A fascinating discovery from the Japanese brand Citizen awaits.The post The smallest watch you’ve never heard of appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Clean design and Goldilocks dimensions in an affordable package make for a mega hit.
SJX Watches
Appointed chief executive of TAG Heuer in 2020, Frédéric Arnault is often described as a son of Bernard Arnault, now the world’s richest man thanks to his controlling stake in LVMH. But the younger Arnault, who was just 25 when he took the job, is notable amongst watch industry bosses for his background. In contrast to the marketing or sales background that characterise most executives in the business, Mr Arnault has a degree in computational and applied mathematics from École Polytechnique, a French science and technology university with a long list of accomplished alumni, including Nobel laureates, presidents, and captains of industry (including the senior Arnault). Mr Arnault has been in the top job for two years, while it typically takes three to five years to develop an all new watch and even longer for a movement. As a result, his vision for TAG Heuer has yet to fully materialise in its products, but hints of his outsider’s perspective and inclination towards technology are already apparent. This has manifested itself in TAG Heuer’s Connected smartwatch and its solar-powered dive watch, but more notably in its flagship mechanical offering, the Carrera Plasma, an unorthodox jewelled chronograph that makes liberal use of synthetic diamonds. Synthetic diamonds grown to fit perfectly into the case of the Plasma, which is made of anodised aluminium But the most tantalising creations lie perhaps two to three years in the future, given that one of Mr Arnault’s ...
Worn & Wound
It’s far too early in the year to call anything that’s happened so far in the watch world a “trend,” at least by any traditional dictionary definition of the word. In these early weeks of January, it’s just as likely that any example we might point to of releases that feel similar in some way or follow a pattern are merely coincidences. Still, our collective radar goes up when we see new watches begin to follow a certain format, and between a surprising release at last week’s LVMH watch week, a pleasantly diminutive GMT, and this new collection from Farer, we get the sense that it’s worth paying attention to smaller watches making their way onto the scene. The new 36mm Three Hand collection is a small selection of four watches that take familiar Farer design tropes and shrink them down into a case that sits squarely in “medium” territory. It’s an interesting move for Farer, as they’ve always made watches that are well proportioned, not overly large, and could fairly be described as unisex. Recent releases like an updated Stanhope and the AquaMatic collection have certainly reinforced this idea. But the new Three Hand collection seen here takes the idea to another level, and underscores the midcentury design inspiration that has always been at the heart of Farer’s watches. As is typical of Farer, they’ve launched the new Three Hand collection with four watches that showcase the wide range of colors the brand is skilled at working with. The Reso...
Time+Tide
In our review of Artel Rotec’s previous V watch, Borna touched on how the high-tech exotic sports watch wasn’t a niche that every collector was comfortable with. That may be true, but when it comes to watches there will be an adoring audience for almost anything you can think of. Artel Rotec’s first futuristic release … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Artel Rotec Sky Series combines ’70s bravado with Art Deco chic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Today, we welcome the Year of the Rabbit, and We wish our readers, friends and family a very Happy and Prosperous New Year!
Teddy Baldassarre
Swiss watch manufacture Zenith traces its roots to 1865, when it was founded in the village of Le Locle by precocious 22-year-old watchmaker Georges Favre-Jacot. As one of the first watchmaking maisons to integrate all aspects of the watchmaking process under one roof, from case manufacturing to movement production to final casing and assembly, Zenith has long prided itself on its quest for timekeeping precision. The company has earned a record number of chronometry prizes over the years, and its most influential contribution to watchmaking history is its El Primero chronograph caliber, released in 1969. (Learn more about El Primero here.) In that same pivotal year, Zenith also released an avant-garde wristwatch series called Defy, whose bold, edgy design proved to be ahead of its time, and found its expression in the now-legendary Ref. A3642. The Original Defy (1969) That watch was nicknamed the “coffre-fort,” a French term translating to “bank vault” or “safe,” a reference to its robustly angular, octagonal case, 14-sided bezel, and high-for-the-time water resistance of 300 meters, secured by its crown, caseback, and mineral crystal, all of which screwed securely into the case. Its “ladder-style” bracelet from legendary chainmaker Gay Frères also made the original reference notable. The Defy was positioned as Zenith’s toughest watch, featured in an advertisement in which six of the watches were strapped to the spokes of a motorcycle in a speed test a...
Deployant
The Cartier Tank Française is a classic and timeless watch that exudes luxury and style. The design of the watch is sleek and elegant, with clean lines and a simple, yet sophisticated look. The case finishing is well-made, with attention to detail and high-quality materials used throughout. The bracelet is comfortable and the watch itself is weighty and substantial. Overall, the Cartier Tank Française is a luxurious and stylish watch.
Worn & Wound
Most of the attention focused on Zenith following their LVMH Watch Week releases has been focused on the new skeleton dial version of the Defy Skyline and a raiding of the archives in the form of a red dialed Defy. But it’s another new addition to the larger Defy camp that might prove to be the biggest hit with the widest possible audience: the Defy Skyline 36mm. This smaller and more compact Defy is decidedly unisex, and offers a classic case size with the Skyline’s more contemporary styling in a range of color options. It also forgoes the high frequency El Primero caliber found in the larger Skyline in favor of a thinner Elite series movement, a decision that proves to offer a range of benefits. The pitch for this watch is actually very simple. A smaller Skyline for a broader array of wrists, simplified. The 36mm stainless steel case features the same highly angular case construction and shares the same profile as the larger Skyline, and borrows a dial design from last year’s watch as well. The four-pointed star motif can be had in blue (the same blue as last year’s 41mm model) or pastel shades of green and pink. The dials have a metallic finish that is satin brushed, giving them a subtle sense of texture and a bit of deeper complexity. If you’d like, you can choose to have the 12 sided bezel set with diamonds. A little less under the radar, perhaps, but we support brands giving customers options. Besides the size, the key differentiator between these watch...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Zenith El Primero, found today in watches throughout Zenith’s collection, from the Chronomaster to the Defy to the Pilot, is arguably the watch world’s most famous movement - more widely known, in fact, than some of the watch models to whom it has given life during its half-century-plus of existence. The reasons for its renown are several, from the technical revolution it represented at its origin to the legendary role it played in the post-Quartz Crisis revival of the mechanical watch. Here we examine what made the El Primero so special in the first place and introduce you to some modern watches that demonstrate how it is still evolving and improving in the 21st century. A FOUNDATION OF PRECISION Watchmaker Georges Favre-Jacot was a mere 22 years of age when he founded the atelier that would become Zenith in Le Locle, Switzerland in 1865. Favre-Jacot, a contemporary of Swiss modern architecture pioneer le Corbusier, took his own pioneering approach to making watches, becoming one of the first to bring the various horological disciplines under one roof as opposed to the more common établissage system that most watchmakers used at the time, which had different parts made in different small workshops before being delivered to another workshop for assembly into a finished watch, Georges Favre-Jacot & co. became Zenith in 1911, the company taking its new name from a top-of-the-line movement it created that won a Grand Prix for precision at the 1900 Paris World’s F...
Revolution
We are starting a brand new series to take a peek behind the curtain of the watch brand that has probably the most maximalist design language in the entire Swiss watch industry, Jacob & Co. Beyond the strikingly luxurious presentation of its watches, each product family is underpinned by highly technical competencies that have elevated […]
Worn & Wound
With just two collaborative pieces in the past two years, Rowing Blazers has made some serious noise in the watch space. Their taste for playful colors and bold patterns combined with their use of various fabric textures across different styles not limited to streetwear, “prep,” and athletic-inspired apparel are displayed front and center in both of their Seiko collaborations. With author, designer, and Rowing Blazers founder Jack Carlson at the helm, and the horological experience of Eric Wind, it was only going to be a matter of time until the brand expanded their sights onto new horizons, and new watch brands to collaborate with. The new Rowing Blazers x Zodiac Harry’s Bar Super Sea Wolf is the latest to come from the American apparel brand and features an ongoing collaboration with their favorite watering-hole. One look at the Rowing Blazers catalog will tell you that the brand is not shy going heavy on the bright colors. And you know who else isn’t shy about using color? Zodiac. Naturally this collaborative piece uses a vibrant sunburst green dial reminiscent of a mix of green liqueurs. An appropriate color choice considering this collaboration includes Harry’s Bar, the oldest cocktail bar in Europe. This establishment has served libations to the likes of Ernest Hemingway, Daft Punk, and even makes a cameo in Ian Fleming’s James Bond novel “From a View to Kill.” With so much history that has taken place behind those doors, one would wonder what it woul...
Revolution
Wei visits De Bethune Co-founder and Master Watchmaker Denis Flageollet’s private atelier, a place where he finds solitude to seek inspiration and conduct research for the brand’s next concept watch. Denis is probably the only independent watchmaker to have his own metal forge where he can experiment on different materials and craft his own watch […]
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