Hodinkee
Photo Report: An Auction-Packed Weekend With Phillips In New York
Step inside the new-look subterranean auction hall off Park Avenue.
Results for Beads of Rice Bracelet
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Hodinkee
Hodinkee
Introducing: The MING 20.01 Series 2 Agengraphe Chronograph, From The 'Special Projects Cave'
The latest Ming limited edition has been years in the making, but has the obsessive development process paid off?
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT offers a sportier take on a modern classic
For many, myself included, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo has been a consistent benchmark for craftsmanship, artfulness, and bravery in watchmaking. Off the top of my head, I can’t even count how many records have been broken with these watches, including all the mind-boggling complications in wafer-thin movements that still maintain that Roman design foundation. In … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT offers a sportier take on a modern classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Bollinger B13 Champagne: Not So Much ‘No Time To Die’ As ‘A Great Wine To Drink’
Ken Gargett takes a look at the new Bollinger Blanc de Noirs one-off, the B13 from the (unusual) 2013 vintage. And decides that this is no shrinking violet and that no one is going to taste this and start thinking how delicate, how elegant. It is a big, bold, full-of-flavor champagne.
Time+Tide
DOXA dives back into their 80s catalogue with the updated 600T collection
Imagine you’re heading out for a swim or a surf… the sun’s beating down and you have the day to yourself. You glance down to grab the time off your trusty (and waterproof) brightly-coloured watch… When we discuss a brand like DOXA, it’s those fun colours and designs that bring to mind scenes like that. … ContinuedThe post DOXA dives back into their 80s catalogue with the updated 600T collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Introduces the Minions Watch
Konstantin Chaykin has iterated his bestselling Wristmon Joker frequently, installing new faces and complications the “rolling eye” time display, including the sci-fi Martian Tourbillon that tells the time and date on Mars. Now he takes inspiration from Minions, a spin-off from the Despicable Me animated film franchise. The Minions Watch recreates the diminutive yellow characters who are the henchmen of Gru, the supervillain protagonist of the movies. While it sticks to the same formula, the Minions Watch is slightly more compact than its predecessors, making it more wearable. Initial thoughts All of Konstantin Chaykin’s Joker watches are appealing because of their whimsical mechanics. Though Mr Chaykin has done a good number of variants, the Minions Watch stands out for being inspired by pop culture, which gives his signature watch a new dimension, at least relative to contemporary life. That said, Minions might not have the longevity of Mickey Mouse or other iconic animated films, which might limit the long-term appeal of this watch. That said, the Minions Watch costs about the same as the earlier Joker models, while also being more wearable, making it an appealing proposition on its own. A familiar face The Minions Watch sticks to the same formula as past Wristmon Joker models: the dial has a “rolling eye” display with the left eye indicating the hours and the right eye, the minutes. Just below is the moon phase display contained within the Minion’s mo...
Hodinkee
Low-Impact Watchmaking For A Changing World - Hodinkee Magazine
Like every industry, ours is trying to improve. Where does greenwashing leave off, and real change begin?
Time+Tide
Loupe This to present rare Grand Seiko VFA 6186-8000-G for auction
You may have heard a lot about Loupe This these past few weeks. The online auction platform, founded by Eric Ku and Justin Gruenberg, recently hosted the charitable Pink Dial Project Auction, which raised $526,803 USD for the fight against breast cancer. They also auctioned off a generously donated Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/014, which secured … ContinuedThe post Loupe This to present rare Grand Seiko VFA 6186-8000-G for auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Have dive watches just received official formalwear approval?
Ever since Sean Connery’s Jame Bond emerged from the ocean in Goldfinger and peeled off his wetsuit to reveal a tuxedo beneath, the question has always been there: should you wear a diving watch with formalwear? (Bond was wearing the Rolex Submariner ref 6538 by the way.) The question arises following the recent launch of … ContinuedThe post Have dive watches just received official formalwear approval? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Swatch Unveils the Halloween Capsule Collection
Thematic capsule collections are a Swatch favourite, with recent launches including watches dedicated to the latest James Bond film and NASA. With hyper-efficient, automated manufacturing and simply constructed watches, Swatch is able to keep current with its thematic collections. And now with Halloween around the corner, Swatch has just taken the covers off the line up dedicated to the ghoulish celebration – the Halloween Capsule Collection, made up of a pair of watches that are glow-in-the-dark and appear entirely different from day to night. Your Time is Coming (left), and Run But You Can’t Hide Initial thoughts Glow-in-the-dark watches are cool because they light up in the dark. Swatch takes the concept and goes big with the Halloween pair – the watches are a bold 47 mm in diameter and matched with straps that are entirely “lumed”. The Halloween pair also stand out for the contrast between their day and night looks, a characteristic that makes them all the more striking and attractive. During the day, the dials are surprisingly low-key, with the faces barely visible. The faces on the dials only reveal themselves at night And both watches are clearly all about design. The dials are both smartly streamlined, with as few time-telling elements as possible – there are neither hours markers nor a date, or even a seconds hand Even the hands are thin and skeletonised. The hands do the job, but are not quite as inventive as the floating, “ghost” hands found i...
Time+Tide
Don’t Miss This: Our team debates the best watches from $3K-5K USD
After debating the best watches under $1,000 USD and the best watches from $1,000 – $3,000 USD, the next tier we are going to tackle in our Don’t Miss This series are the best watches from $3K-5K USD. Traditionally speaking, the luxury watch segment really kicks off in the $3000 USD and above price point – … ContinuedThe post Don’t Miss This: Our team debates the best watches from $3K-5K USD appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Street thief uses “bizarre dance” to steal woman’s Rolex
Forget car-jacking or bag-snatching. A street thief in Birmingham used a different technique to steal a woman’s Rolex clean off her wrist after employing what police described as “a bizarre dance”. CCTV footage shows Abdelhadi Bahou Jabour approaching the couple in Birmingham’s Colmore Row in July. He starts talking to them and exchanging high fives. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Street thief uses “bizarre dance” to steal woman’s Rolex appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Watch Spotting: Phil Mickelson Wears A Decades-Old Rolex Cellini While Making Golf History
He became the oldest player to win a major golf tournament on Sunday, but we couldn't take our eyes off the watch.
Deployant
Cheerful, crazy and cheeky: Another six great recommendations for quirky but fabulous watches
We take the off-beaten path with something different in this week's article - courtesy of a slew of quirky and more unusual watches.
Time+Tide
OPINION: Why I just can’t do vintage watches
I remember my plane ride back from Baselworld 2019. I was still coming off the high of my first show and all the beautiful new pieces I was fortunate enough to handle. (Which was a good thing because I needed to stay up if I wanted to avoid the jet-lag) As I tried my hardest … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Why I just can’t do vintage watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Unveils the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in Titanium
The current generation Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar has become the favourite platform for national or regional editions, with Audemars Piguet (AP), having debuted almost ten different versions over the last few years, including limited runs for China, Hong Kong, and Thailand. And the brand has just taken the covers off a special edition for the American market (at least initially, with other countries getting a shot at the watch later on): the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 41 mm in titanium with an unusual, two-tone tapisserie guilloche dial in grey and blue. Initial thoughts The blue tapisserie dial is so familiar that the new Perpetual Calendar doesn’t seem new on its face. In fact, it might pass for the steel version with a blue dial, with only the grey sub-dials setting the two apart. That said, the latest Royal Oak perpetual is a good-looking watch, with a handsome, restrained style and colours that echo the original “Jumbo” ref. 5402. Traditionally, Royal Oak Perpetual Calendars have sub-dials that match the dial, but contrasting calendar registers actually makes sense since they distinguish between the functions. The two-tone dial on the latest model does that, while adding visual contrast. At the distance the two colours might not be obvious, but they will certainly be apparent up close. The hands and markers are white gold In addition to the contrasting sub-dials, the case metal is also relatively uncommon for a Royal Oak – the very first Royal Oak Perpe...
SJX Watches
IWC to Keep Time on First All-Civilian Space Flight
Slated to be the first space flight with an entirely civilian crew, Inspiration4 take off in September 2021 for a three-day orbit of Earth. Operated by SpaceX, the space travel company founded by Elon Musk, the mission will keep time with the help of IWC, which has created the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Inspiration4” for the four-person crew. Featuring white ceramic cases and blue-lacquered dials, the four watches will be sold at auction after the space flight, with proceeds going to St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital, a paediatric hospital funded by donations that treats severely ill children and teenagers for free. Initial thoughts Being four watches that will be sold to benefit a good cause, the Inspiration4 chronographs are certainly a good thing. It helps that the design is appealing. Though the overarching elements of the watch are familiar – white ceramic and blue – they are combined in a novel manner for IWC. Both the star-speckled dial and white ceramic case are unique in the IWC line up. But the fact that these four are the first-ever Pilot’s watches in white ceramic (aside from prototypes from two decades ago) probably hints at something similar in the pipeline. If, and when, such a watch does emerge, I hope the production version will be smaller than the 44.5 mm that the Inspiration4 is, though that’s unlikely since the ceramic chronographs are all that size. Four travellers The four watches have been made for the crew of Inspiratio...
SJX Watches
Massena Lab Introduces Habring2 with J.N. Shapiro Guilloche Dial
After two collaborations with Habring², Massena Lab has just taken the covers off its third joint project with the Austria watchmaker. Strikingly different from the earlier “sector” dial editions, the Erwin Lab03 is a step up in terms of dial decoration. Doing away with the printed sector dial of earlier editions, Massena Lab recruited American guillocheur J.N. Shapiro to create an engine-turned bronze dial with classical Roman numerals and Breguet hands. Initial thoughts Having three variations of one Habring² model in as many years might seem a lot, but Massena Lab has made each version distinctive, each is different enough to bear little resemblance to the stock Erwin. At the same time, the Erwin has appeal. It’s wearable and compact while having an interesting complication, a jumping seconds. Perhaps more elegant than the earlier Massena Lab Erwins, the LAB03 distinguishes itself from the typical guilloche-dial watch. The salmon colour is faddish, but the extra-large Roman numerals and absence of hour markers make the watch stand out from most Breguet-inspired watches. The highlight is definitely the hand-crafted dial. It’s made by Joshua Shapiro, a self-taught independent watchmaker and engine-turning specialist best known for pulling off the extremely intricate guilloche pattern of his own creation. At the same time, Mr Shapiro’s rising reputation certainly adds to the appeal of LAB03. Priced at US$9,450, the Lab03 is the most expensive Erwin from ...
Time+Tide
OPINION: The answer to the eternal question “Does this look too small on my wrist?”
We’ve all heard the line “Does my bum look big in this” on cheesy TV sitcoms and yet I’ve never heard a woman say this in real life. What I do see on a regular basis is men asking “Does this look small on me?” while showing off watches that are, if anything, usually too … ContinuedThe post OPINION: The answer to the eternal question “Does this look too small on my wrist?” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Hands-on with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore self-winding Chronograph
First up, let me get something off my chest. I have never been a fan of the movement used in the AP Royal Oak Offshore. As much as I like the style of the watch, I’ve always felt the movement isn’t up to scratch, especially for the price. Of course, not many people will care about this, but one look at how deep-set the date is, and you know clearly that it is a modular construction (module by Dubois-Deprez). And really, at $50k a pop, is it really too much to ask for an integrated chronograph movement? I’m sure there are many out there who will argue that this is part of the charm. It’s what makes the Royal Oak Offshore different. But I have a feeling given how hyped the watches are, people are only too happy to buy one when one is available, and straight away, blinders come on, and the denial begins. Especially when the layout is exactly the same as the ubiquitous ETA 7750 chronographs (12-9-6 sub-dials). Again, nothing wrong with the ETA 7750. In fact, it is one of my favourite entry-level, workhorse movements, but even this one is integrated… Fine. Call me a chronograph snob if you like. As we all know, this hobby is highly personal and highly subjective. I just prefer my chronographs to be integrated. (Although I’m not fussy regarding whether it’s a vertical or horizontal clutch, and whether or not the engagement is controlled by a column-wheel or a cam/lever assembly – I’m sure there are people out there who swears by one form over another…) This...
Time+Tide
I just can’t quit you! The watches that we’ve bought, sold and bought again…
There’s a line usually attributed to Albert Einstein that claims that “Insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results.” Unfortunately, this brutal logic can apply to watches, too. You buy a particular timepiece but, after the initial honeymoon period wears off, you realise that it’s perhaps no longer as indispensable … ContinuedThe post I just can’t quit you! The watches that we’ve bought, sold and bought again… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
From Boyz II Men to Backstreet Boys – watch spotting in Netflix’s “This Is Pop”
“Ten, nine, eight, seven, six, five, four, three, two, one (wristwatches fellas)…” With its recognisable intro, Netflix’s original docuseries, This Is Pop, takes off and guides you through some of the biggest moments in pop history. From the explosion of Boyz II Men and their addictive harmonies, to the music festivals that defined a generation, … ContinuedThe post From Boyz II Men to Backstreet Boys – watch spotting in Netflix’s “This Is Pop” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Only Watch 2021: Andersen Genève Quotidiana
One-off timepieces are very much the stock-in-trade of Svend Andersen, who has spent over 40 years creating bespoke or custom complicated watches at his eponymous brand, Andersen Genève. A longtime supporter of Only Watch – the brand created a Montre a Tact for the 2019 event – Andersen did something different this year for the charity auction. A collaborative partnership with the Savile Row tailor Edward Sexton, the Andersen Genève Quotidiana is a one-off wristwatch accompanied by a made-to-measure suit for the buyer, along with a visit the workshops of both companies. Initial thoughts While the tie up with a tailor is odd, the watch itself is intrinsically interesting. Unlike the more esoteric “tactful” watch made for Only Watch 2019, the Quotidiana is a classical timepiece in form and function, but done with the watchmaker’s typical decorative flair. The quintessential Andersen Genève watch consists of elaborate efforts in constructing the various elements – from the case, dial, and hands, to custom complication modules, usually built upon an off-the-shelf base movement. These parts are made manually with hand-operated tools, a charming characteristic that makes for a genuinely personalised timepiece, even though the Quotidiana has been made for Only Watch without a client’s input (though the buyer will get to specify every detail of the suit that goes along with the watch). Hand made Undoubtedly, the highlight of the Quotidiana is the guilloche dia...
Time+Tide
Public service announcement: How to buy a watch if you’re stuck in the Sydney lockdown
Much like the many-headed Hydra that Hercules was sent to kill in the Greek legends, the coronavirus pandemic is a beast that just won’t go away. Just when one head has been cut off, two more grow back in its place. As a result of this multifaceted challenge, greater Sydney (as well as several other … ContinuedThe post Public service announcement: How to buy a watch if you’re stuck in the Sydney lockdown appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Interview: The Man Trying To Make A 100% French Watch
It's a quixotic quest. But using cast-off watch movements, Colin de Tonnac is 95% of the way there.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Citizen New Generation Mechanical Watch With Caliber 0200
Citizen kicks off a brand-new chapter in collaboration with subsidiary La Joux-Perret.
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: How 'Grand' Should Grand Seiko Really Be?
Growing and evolving while staying true to yourself is tough stuff. But we think Grand Seiko can pull it off.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Tissot Heritage Memphis Limited Edition
As if we needed any more proof that the '80s are back, Tissot comes through with this bodacious limited-edition reissue.
Time+Tide
The Rolex Daytona gets a wild blue remix from Artisans de Genève
After picking my jaw off the ground, I was surprised by my wide-eyed delight with Artisans de Genève’s irreverent take on the Rolex Daytona. I was surprised because, truth be told, this is not a model I am particularly enamored with. I’ve had my fill of all the endless fawning over vintage Daytonas. In fact, … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Daytona gets a wild blue remix from Artisans de Genève appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Why I bought the Bulgari Octo Finissimo: What the owners’ experience is really like
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo is well on its way to being a modern classic. Launched just seven years ago in 2014 and drawing off the sharp Italian geometry of the Octo Roma, it is a collection that has gone from strength to strength, breaking world records for thinness on average once every year. That’s right, … ContinuedThe post Why I bought the Bulgari Octo Finissimo: What the owners’ experience is really like appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.