Deployant
New: Breitling Super Chronomat
Breitling super charges their Chronomat collection. Now with the B01 chronograph returns to 44mm, and a new 4 year calendar model is added.
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Deployant
Breitling super charges their Chronomat collection. Now with the B01 chronograph returns to 44mm, and a new 4 year calendar model is added.
Revolution
Breitling introduces the Super Chronomat 44, with a UTC module designed into the watch’s Rouleaux bracelet, and a Super Chronomat 44 Four-Year Calendar
SJX Watches
A bon vivant from an era where many watch retailers were personalities, Gino Cukrowicz passed away in Singapore on May 6, 2021, just shy of his 62nd birthday. Gino was proprietor of Ginotti, a watch store in Belgium that he cofounded with Thierry Maldague in 1987, but perhaps best known as one of the partners in F.P. Journe. He’s pictured above with his wife Radhi and Francois-Paul Journe. A notable individual in both style and substance, Gino was always dressed in colours and eye-catching shoes, along with a large diamond stud on each year. Though Gino only owned a single watch store, his had an influence in the business, much like his peer Laurent Picciotto of Paris, because of his experience and taste. As a measure of his stature, Gino’s funeral service in Singapore included tributes from Francois-Henry Bennahmias and Patrick Pruniaux, the chief executives of Audemars Piguet and Ulysse Nardin respectively, as well as Masaki Saito, the longtime head of sales at F.P. Journe, and Jean-Claude Biver. Gino with Thierry Maldague outside Ginotti (left), and pictured in the 1990s. Photo – Shawn Mehta I last spoke with Gino at length in 2018, when he was in Singapore along with Francois-Paul Journe. Having arrived early for the interview with Mr Journe, I spent the time having a fascinating conversation with Gino, who had on his wrist an F.P. Journe Ruthenium Tourbillon with a platinum bracelet. He was frank, his outsized passion for independent watchmakers obvious, and hi...
Time+Tide
We all love a salacious story about a politician, especially when it makes them look like a rotten old hypocrite. Embattled Australian Prime Minister Scott Morrison has been the target of just that, with an image circulating online of him wearing what is said to be a “Rolex Cosmograph Daytona White Gold” apparently ringing up … ContinuedThe post Fury about the Australian Prime Minister’s “Rolex” actually fake news appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Lot 434 in the Antiquorum auction on May 9, 2021 is an ultra-rare A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 in stainless steel. A. Lange & Söhne never officially launched a stainless steel watch before the recent Odysseus, but there are a few steel Lange 1s in existence and they are quite sought after by collectors. Elizabeth Doerr explains why here.
Deployant
We put our Chief Editor's Swatch Big Bold NEXT C-BLUE under the loupe and examine this very affordable watch with an innovation streak in bio-ceramic.
Revolution
The flying carrousel equipped Freak X receives a dose of artistry inspired by naval camouflage and Cubist art.
Time+Tide
Establishing a recognisable design DNA is a difficult thing to achieve, especially in a short period of time, but Louis Vuitton Tambour collection has done just that. Exhibiting a case and shape unlike pretty much anything else out there, the all new Louis Vuitton Tambour Street Diver is a watch that will stand-out whether you’re … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Street Diver is a fashion-forward diving watch that oozes urban cool appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
One of the problems with having an iconic wine among your offerings is that other, equally worthy wines are often overlooked or diminished in the eyes of wine lovers. But such is life. With its latest releases, Australian superstar winery Henschke has moved to align the vintages of several of its top wines, all Shiraz: Wheelwright, Mount Edelstone, Hill of Roses, and the legendary Hill of Grace. Ken Gargett tastes.
Deployant
We go hands-on and take a deep dive into the new 2021 edition of the Little Lange 1 Moonphase with the magnificent goldstone faced dial.
Deployant
We take a look at one of the more refined diver's watches available in the market currently, in the form of the Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date.
SJX Watches
Last year’s 60th anniversary was a major event for Grand Seiko, which unveiled several new movements and plenty of limited editions to mark the occasion. The most notable launch was probably the 9SA5 movement, a high-frequency and high-end automatic calibre. The movement made its debut in the luxe yellow-gold SLGH002, then in the steel Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Hi-Beat SLGH003 a few months later. Since then the movement has been installed in a similar, but even more pricey platinum edition, and finally the regular production “White Birch” SLGH005. The cal. 9SA5 All the models are essentially the same, save for different dial finishes and case materials. Here we take a close look at the SLGH003 in steel as a representative for the “SLGH” family. Like its siblings in the family, the SLGH003 is a brand-new reference. The case and dial designs evolved from the existing and familiar Grand Seiko style, but inside is a radically new movement – the cal. 9SA5 with a Dual Impulse escapement. The aesthetic changes have created more refined exterior that better showcase the brand’s case finishing, but more crucially, the improvements signify the brand’s moves upmarket – exemplified by the more elaborate movement and higher price tag. The SLGH003 Initial thoughts Unique among the Grand Seiko line up in terms of its movement and styling, the “SLGH” family boasts new features that are mostly for the better, such as the more elaborate case and sophisticated mov...
Time+Tide
OK, I admit that I can be self-contradictory. While proclaiming last week that I enjoy the thrill of breaking established dress codes with a banged-up diver’s watch under a formal shirt sleeve, what I’m secretly longing for is the chance to dress up properly, and that does include the watch. In Norway we’re still semi-locked … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: A return to the dapper dress watch with Swiss-manufactured debut brand, Fifty Eight appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
GaryG recently took a deep dive into the world of digital art, auctioning a few of his photos of a rare Patek Philippe Reference 2526 Gobbi Milano as an NFT (non-fungible token). Here he shares the complete mechanics and thoughts behind his futuristic experience. And he's encouraged enough to do it again!
Deployant
We take a complicated adventure with split seconds chronograph and pick 6 of the best. From Lange, Patek, Journe, IWC, Sinn and Habring.
Quill & Pad
Once upon a time in a small watch shop in a (relatively) small California town before GaryG really knew much at all about Vacheron Constantin as a brand and company. there was a display case. And a watch: the Vacheron Constantin Malte Squelette.
Deployant
The Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 is in every way a well-designed and reliable tool-watch. The novelty of the rarely used silver case will add to its collectibility - not referring to flipping potential, but a fun factor for any watch collector.
Quill & Pad
What qualifies a watch to be "made in Glashütte" or "made in Germany"? Sabine Zwettler explains the similarities and differences.
Revolution
The French word ingenieur means “engineer”, and the main selling point of IWC’s first watch with this name was that it was antimagnetic, with its movement being protected from potentially damaging magnetic fields via a soft-iron inner case.
SJX Watches
Unveiled just last week alongside its sterling-silver sibling, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K is Tudor’s first solid-gold dive watch. A significant milestone for Tudor that perhaps reveals aspirations further up the price spectrum, the Fifty-Eight 18K lives up to its ambitions. Initial thoughts In late 2019 I was speaking with a senior Tudor executive and got an inkling that a solid-gold watch might be in the works. Being a fan of the brand (and fortunate enough to own a few of them), that was something I was very much looking forward to. Now Tudor has finally done it, and I am impressed with the result. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K is attractive, feels good in the hand, and is also well priced. The only disappointment is the lack of a matching gold bracelet. I know that would hike the price by at least 50%, but even then it would be a good buy – and it would be truly cool. Fingers crossed a bracelet is in the works. But even sans bracelet the new Fifty-Eight feels good in the hand. It’s sized (almost) exactly the same as the steel Fifty-Eight, making it the perfect size for an easy-to-wear dive watch. Naturally, the gold version is slightly heavier than the steel equivalent, but the weight is just enough to seem substantive, but not so much it’s unwieldy on the soft fabric strap (more on the weight reduction below). The weight gives the Fifty-Eight 18k an appropriately expensive feel. But as is always the norm with Tudor watches, the quality of the watch lives ...
Deployant
We review the latest Bell & Ross - a new variation of their iconic square diver - the BR 03 now in a ceramic case and an olive drab military styled dial.
Time+Tide
The new TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Tribute to Ref. 844 is about as close to a direct vintage reissue as the brand has done.The post The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Tribute to Ref. 844 revives a legend appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Though best known for its square, aviation-instrument watches, Bell & Ross actually offers a varied lineup of conventional, round watches that nonetheless remain military inspired, such as the BR V2-94. The brand now gives its vintage-inspired chronograph a fully luminescent makeover to create the BR V2-94 Full Lum. Initial thoughts Bell & Ross implemented the fully-luminescent dial on BR 03-92 Full Lum (which even had a luminous strap), so the dial treatment is not novel. However, it’s a first for one of the brand’s round watches. If you are a fan of the “Full Lum” concept but dislike large square watches, then the “lumed-out” BR V2-94 is right up your alley. And while its full-luminous dial is undoubtedly the watch’s biggest selling point, it isn’t a gimmick that appears merely after sundown. The BR V2-94 is eye-catching even in daylight. The luminous dial is a pale, mint green that’s akin to that in the new Breitling Premier Heritage Chronograph in steel. Furthermore, the BR V2-94 is perhaps the best-looking round watch in Bell & Ross’ current catalogue, good enough that I almost pulled the trigger on the BR V2-94 Bellytanker Bronze a while back. The BR V2-94 is a design that successfully fuses the brand’s military-issue heritage with a contemporary look. My only knock is the lack of luminous paint on the bezel as well as the date, which feel like odd exceptions for a “Full Lum” watch. The non-luminous date leaves a dark spot on the glowing ...
Time+Tide
With the tuxedo panache of the Oscars still fresh in my memory, I appreciate brand founder Jerome Burgert describing this new Serica 5303 diver’s watch as being adept at transitioning “from the wetsuit to the three-piece suit”. In defiance of Luke Benedictus’ story on the need for slim dress watches when suiting up, I sometimes … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Serica 5303, a time-travelling tool watch with a French twist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
If you love De Bethune and you love green, you will find this new version of the DB27 Titan Hawk mesmerizing. And its verdant, microlight-finished dial center isn't all there is to love: unusually for De Bethune, the Titan Hawk is now powered by an automatic movement.
SJX Watches
Founded by movement constructor Rémi Maillat in 2013, Krayon made waves when it debuted the Everywhere – a mechanical computer able to indicate sunrise and sunset times anywhere in the world – before following up with the more affordable Anywhere, which fulfils the same function for a single, fixed location. Now Krayon is introducing a special run of the Anywhere created in partnership with Perpétuel, a newly-established retailer in Dubai, in colours “inspired by the mythical desert”. Limited to 15 pieces, the Krayon x Perpétuel Anywhere features Eastern Arabic numerals and a stainless steel case. Initial thoughts Essentially a facelift of the standard model, the Perpétuel edition is distinguished by its colours – black and pale orange – as well as the Eastern Arabic numerals. While the tweaks are modest, it is nonetheless sharply executed, sporting a striking aesthetic that sets it apart from the blue or cream dials of the regular versions. More fundamentally, the Anywhere is particularly functional as a special-edition watch for the Middle East. Given that the Anywhere indicates sunrise and sunset times, it is eminently useful for clients in Perpétuel’s home market, where Islam is the predominant religion. The ninth month of the Islamic calendar, known as Ramadan – which is taking place right now – requires Muslims to fast from sunrise until sunset. The standard version of the Anywhere However, with a price tag of CHF118,800, the Anywher...
Revolution
Made between 2001 and 2004, the IWC GST Rattrapante had a short production run but the example here is one of the most sought-after references within the family.
Time+Tide
Update #2:The never-ending story goes on… Since publishing this update we have spoken to Fog City Vintage (@fogcityvintage), who removed the Rolex Submariner listing – with an asking price at that time of $22,500USD – and refunded the seller as soon as it came to light that the provenance of the watch was not as originally described. As … ContinuedThe post PSA: Russell Crowe confirms purported ‘Cinderella Man Rolex Submariner’ up for sale is not his watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
It’s been 220 years, and Abraham-Louis Breguet’s invention still is capturing hearts.
SJX Watches
Appropriately for the 90th anniversary of famed reversible wristwatch, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has debuted the ultimate Reverso. Boasting 11 complications, including a tourbillon, minute repeater, and instantaneous perpetual calendar, the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque is a monumental wristwatch with four faces and a movement made up of 800 parts. Initial thoughts The Calibre 185 Quadriptyque is smaller than the Reverso Grande Complication à Triptyque – which was so big as to be almost unwearable for most – but still sizeable enough to be clunky. It measures 51.2 mm by 31 mm, while standing 15.15 mm high, making it larger than the biggish Nonantième that was launched at the same time. Granted, the size is necessary for the ultra-complex, four-faced movement. Majority of the complications within the new grand complication can be found in past JLC watches, making the Calibre 185 Quadriptyque something of a greatest-hits compilation for the brand. Impressive as it is, the Calibre 185 feels dated, in the sense that watches with numerous complications stacked up were a “thing” in the 2000s; the Triptyque was launched in 2007 and truly exotic in its day. Now that such watches are fairly common, with many leading brands having their own grand multi-complications, the concept is less impressive, regardless of the technical achievement. It’s also worth pointing out that the watch is elaborately decorated – mainly with Clous de Paris guilloche ...
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