Hodinkee
In-Depth: Why We Should All Be Paying More Attention To Vintage Movado
A spotlight on the storied Swiss brand and how it could better harness its heritage today.
Results for The 1985 Swatch Consolidation
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Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
Craft is Everywhere: How Statera Brought Old World Watchmaking to Brazil
When I first met Rafael Guimarães a few months ago, Statera hadn’t crossed my radar in a big way. The small brand, which has a fair claim to being the first watch brand born and built in Brazil, had already sold through a few production runs of nice-looking watches, but the brand had yet to make a real splash or to break out from the typical microbrand mold. Their first few releases certainly showed evidence of an eye for quality and detail, but for Rafael and his longtime friend and co-founder Antonio Almir dos Santos Neto (the two have known each other since they were five), it wasn’t enough. “For the first watch, the ST01, we made the design, and then the watch was fabricated in France… it was more like a [proof of concept] to see if we are able to sell watches,” Rafael explained. The obvious next step was to turn inward, to move away from external manufacturing and create what would be (and now is) the first independent watch not only conceived in Brazil, but made there as well. The result is the ST02 Esmalte Grand Feu, a handsome take on the everyday watch born out of a unique perspective paired with a generation’s worth of accumulated knowledge. How We Learn The path to the ST02 was neither short nor simple. Reaching the next level when you live and work in a part of the world with no history of watchmaking isn’t easy, and it’s not made any easier by Brazil’s restrictive tax structure. “We are fascinated by métier d’art. and we are fascinated ...
Fratello
Strap Check: Boundary Layer Studio Signature Straps Made Of Premium Loro Piana Fabrics
You may not know this, but in the Netherlands, we celebrate Christmas on the 25th and 26th of December. This means many Dutch people still have one fancy dinner tonight before Christmas is officially over. What do you do for such a nice occasion? Exactly - you dress up nicely, which means you also wear […] Visit Strap Check: Boundary Layer Studio Signature Straps Made Of Premium Loro Piana Fabrics to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Year in Review: Eight Predictions for 2025
Twenty twenty-five will be shaped by several factors, ranging from major anniversaries for a trio of important high horology brands, to economic reality where the slowdown in demand will reshape retail channels (and already led one watch brand to go bust). And the coming year will also see the still-unknowable Rolex strategy unfold, which might happen under the radar but will definitely be interesting. Big watches for a big year Next year will be a milestone for trio of important brands. Audemars Piguet (AP), Breguet, and Vacheron Constantin (VC) will all mark significant anniversaries: 150 years at AP, 250 years of Breguet, and 270 years for VC. This implies some major timepieces or even mechanical objects are on the way. Such watches are practically convention as landmark anniversaries are often platforms for brands to launch major watches. Some of the most complicated watches in contemporary watchmaking were anniversary creations – Patek Philippe marked 150 years with the Calibre 89, and then 175 years with the Grandmaster Chime. The Patek Philippe Calibre 89 launched in 1989 for its 150th anniversary. Image – Patek Philippe Museum In 2005, when VC marked its 250th year, it launched the Tour de l’Ile, which was the most complicated wristwatch in the world at the time, and also the most expensive wristwatch sold at auction that year. With that in mind, VC might be working on something that lives up to its status as a maker of haute horlogerie complications. The Vac...
Time+Tide
Our favourite Seiko watches of 2024
With as many releases as you'd expect from Seiko, it took some thinking to whittle them down to only five favourites.The post Our favourite Seiko watches of 2024 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
How Clare Smyth turns humble, everyday ingredients into something special
We get the chance to discover the intention behind Smyth's use of ingredients, and of course manage to tie watches into the story.The post How Clare Smyth turns humble, everyday ingredients into something special appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
A Condensed Guide To Seiko Releases From 2024
At the end of every year, we like to reflect on all the watch goodness we have seen. In good tradition, Seiko has graced us with a consistent stream of new releases. So, as we do every year, it is time to look back at the Seiko releases from the past 12 months. This article […] Visit A Condensed Guide To Seiko Releases From 2024 to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
12 Technical Achievements in Watchmaking from 2024
The word I keep reading to describe the watch industry in 2024 is “conservative.” There is certainly a case to be made for that view (and my colleague Bilal Khan does so quite eloquently in yesterday’s article), but there is also, I feel, ample evidence of the industry’s ongoing (and, to my mind, essential) devotion to doing new things on the technical side. In this day and age, with the watch business so diversified, so international, and so independent of one another in their schedule of releasing new products (the Spring windfall that is Watches & Wonders Geneva notwithstanding), it can be easy to overlook these innovations when you’re trying to tie up the watchmaking year in a neat bow. Of course, every watch brand has its own approach. Sometimes it’s about setting records (Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget); sometimes it's about elevating a brand’s repertoire to the next tier of complexity (Breitling, TAG Heuer); often, it’s just about taking a fresh approach, or adding a clever twist, to existing complications (Nomos, Swatch). For those who may have missed them or even forgotten about them, here are the technical innovations in the horological world — major and minor — that I found worthy of attention in 2024. Ball Model M Roadmaster A With the Roadmaster M Model A, Ball Watch introduces a mechanical alarm function to its predominantly rugged, tool-oriented lineup for the first time. But it’s not just any mechanical alarm function but an “Alarm-Matic...
Hodinkee
Fashion Watches: Citizen And Yves Saint Laurent: A Not So Unlikely Tale Of Licensing Agreements
The most notorious fashion designer of the 20th century made watches with Citizen dating as far back as the 1970s.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: D__b__ Journey Hugger 30L Backpack
For those unfortunate souls who have found their way into my gear bins, you know that I am a gearhead through and through, able to easily outfit a family of five for a week-long camping trip in just about any weather condition. One particular area of weakness for me is in the bag category. Tote bags, sling bags, fanny packs, large backpacking packs, duffles, I believe they all serve their purpose and that you should have one for every scenario. Finding the perfect bag though can be an impossible task leading you to spend hours researching boutique brands only to be disappointed in the one lacking feature you need, accompanied by a significantly lighter pocketbook. So, when I spotted a dirty worn-in backpack with a unique silhouette gliding through a sporting goods store in Denmark, the hunt was on. It didn’t take long as a few quick turns had me standing in front of an entire wall display holding an array of different designs from the new-to-me brand D__b__. Now, it was the early days of my trip and I did not have a lot of room in my luggage to spare, so I snapped a few pictures, residing myself doing downtime research into this exciting company. Despite its large global presence, D_B_ Journey does not seem to have made the push into the States, finding a small home inside of a select number of scattered retailers. This may be in part due to the crowded and hyper-competitive market, or potentially due to the recent forced rebranding stemming from marketing problems wit...
Time+Tide
It’s complicated – why do we value some mechanical functions more than others?
The term "emotional complication" has become almost derogatory to those creating stunning feminine watch complications. The post It’s complicated – why do we value some mechanical functions more than others? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Our favourite Cartier watches of 2024
Cartier's star has continued to rise in 2024, with a mix of quirky complications, vintage reissues and fun new sizes for classic designs.The post Our favourite Cartier watches of 2024 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Best of 2024: Surprises and Unexpected Developments
There were relatively fewer surprises in 2024, perhaps because of the overall slowdown in demand for luxury watches. There were a few big surprises though, including the biggest one of all, the Patek Philippe Cubitus, leaving aside the leak thanks to a premature publication of Fortune magazine. Perhaps even more surprising and even bigger, both figuratively and literally, was the Bugatti Tourbillon, a hypercar inspired by a watch. Also notable was the fact that there was little unexpected from independent watchmakers, which perhaps underlines the still-robust demand for watches by the indies, which stick to safe bets that are easy to sell. Here’s a look at our team’s take on the unexpected launches of the year. Biver Automatique – SJX The first Biver watch was a carillon minute repeater with tourbillon that was finely finished, inside and out, but it was big, thick, and expensive. The follow-up, in contrast, was almost the opposite. The Automatique is compact and elegantly wearable, with a clean design that has just the right amount of vintage flavour. The only aspect where the Automatique stays true to its predecessor is in the finishing, which is outstanding, inside and out. The surprising bit about the Automatique is the movement. For one, it was developed by Dubois Depraz, better known as a maker of chronograph- and perpetual calendar modules mounted on ETA movements. Second, it arguably exceeds the movement of the Carillon Tourbillon in terms of design and decor...
Time+Tide
Blue and rose gold or black DLC titanium: which Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon do you prefer?
We take a look at two variants of one of Ulysse Nardin's most visually engaging watches.The post Blue and rose gold or black DLC titanium: which Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon do you prefer? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Best of 2024: Value Propositions Below US$10,000
Many of the year’s most notable watches were expensive, especially complications and independent watchmaking, but there were still a few standouts at the affordable end of the price spectrum. Some relied on familiar formulas, like the Grand Seiko SLGW005 or Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT, while others like the Louis Erard Vianney Halter collaboration were unexpected. Here’s our team’s take on the year’s best watches under US$10,000. Albishorn Type 10 Chronograph - David Ichim A great debut from the recently-established micro brand is the Type 10 Chronograph. Albishorn’s tagline is “imaginary vintage” - drawing inspiration from actual vintage watches, but reimagined with an entirely novel composition, resulting in watches that are highly suggestive of an era without actually being remakes. The Type 10 Chronograph exemplifies this philosophy. The hands, typeface, bezel, and slim lugs pay homage to mid-century aviator chronographs from the likes of Airain, Breguet, and Heuer. The unusual arrangement of the chronograph display however makes it entirely unique. Inside is a heavily reworked 7750-derived movement, that is positioned unconventionally, leading to the unusual crown and pusher arrangement along with the unorthodox chronograph layout. The manually-wound movement is also C.O.S.C certified and incorporates a chronograph-function indicator. In fact, the calibre is arguably more than just heavily reworked, amongst other things, it has shorter pinions than a 77...
SJX Watches
Best of 2024: Complications
Perhaps echoing the paucity of highlights in indie watchmaking, the best complications of 2024 were not numerous, but those that stood out were outstanding. Vacheron Constantin, for instance, unveiled the most complicated watch ever, while Bovet solved the longstanding problem of summer time across continents in an enormous (and enormously expensive) wristwatch. Here’s the team’s take on the best complications of the year. A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Handwerkskunst – Brandon Moore The iconic Datograph turned 25 this year, and collectors were treated to three different limited edition variants to mark the occasion. We were first introduced to the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” and the Datograph Up/Down 25th Anniversary at Watches & Wonders, but Lange was arguably saving the best for last: the first Datograph to receive the brand’s artisanal Handwerkskunst treatment. Featuring a hand-engraved tremblage dial and limited to just 25 pieces, the Datograph Handwerkskunst is a fitting way to celebrate a quarter-century of being best-in-class. While not particularly creative, this very-limited edition captures both the magic of Lange and its Datograph perfectly. Bovet Récital 28 Prowess 1 – SJX The introduction to our story on the watch sums it up best: “The Bovet Récital 28 Prowess 1 is an ingenious solution to an age-old problem: accounting for daylight saving time (also known as summer time) in a multi-timezone wristwatch… the solution is e...
SJX Watches
Best of 2024: Independent Watchmaking
Independent watchmaking continued its hot streak in 2024, with interest and demand for this niche segment holding up better amidst an industry-wide slowdown. But surprisingly – or unsurprisingly depending on how you look at it – there were relatively few outstanding new creations from the indies. A handful, however, did stand out. We look at the team’s highlights of the year, which range from Konstantin Chaykin’s thinnest-watch-ever to the debut by Swiss-based Japanese watchmaker Takahiro Aigaki. Aigaki Direct-Impulse Tourbillon – Brandon Moore I still remember the moment I stumbled across Takahiko Aigaki’s Instagram profile earlier this year, because the close-up image of the tourbillon cage made me do a double take. Sure, it was well finished, but in 2024 good finishing no longer provides the competitive advantage it once did; the top end of the market is just too competitive. No, what struck me was the unusual double direct-impulse escapement. When the Direct-Impulse Tourbillon was finally revealed, it was worth the wait. While arguably a bit plain on the outside, the movement exhibits a degree of grace and technicality that is still quite rare. The watch is truly a sleeper, in the sense that the case and dial reveal little of the horological magic within. Daniel Roth Tourbillon – Brandon Moore It’s counterintuitive to be writing about the launch of the Daniel Roth brand in 2024, considering the man himself was one of the seminal independent watchmakers ...
Hodinkee
Photo Report: Launching Volume 13 of Hodinkee Magazine in NYC
Celebrating the latest issue with friends.
Hodinkee
Talking Watches: With François-Henry Bennahmias, CEO Of Audemars Piguet
The definitive telling of the last 29 years at Audemars Piguet, from the man himself.
Worn & Wound
A Gift Guide For Every Budget
The post A Gift Guide For Every Budget appeared first on Worn & Wound.
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
A Week in Watches Ep. 96: It’s a Bird, It’s a Plane, It’s a Speedmaster!
Well, it’s finally arrived, the end of 2024. Typically, around this time we put together an annual wrap, but the brands had other plans. You see, they kept releasing watches. So, for episode 96 of A Week in Watches, we’re still covering new releases, with a particular focus on that last-minute Speedmaster drop, and, boy, do we have some thoughts on that one. This episode was brought to by the Windup Watch Shop. When the winter break is behind you, and you’ve returned the awkward sweaters and novelty socks, head on over to the shop and get yourself something you really want. Perhaps some straps, a utility knife, or even a watch. And, if you happen to be near NYC, you can set up a time to come to the new showroom and pick something out in person by following this link. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 96: It’s a Bird, It’s a Plane, It’s a Speedmaster! appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
Our favourite Casio G-Shock watches of 2024
We pick through Casio's many 2024 G-Shock releases to find five of the best.The post Our favourite Casio G-Shock watches of 2024 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified Vs. Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback
Welcome to our last Sunday Morning Showdown of the year. Next week, Jorg will share this year’s Sunday Morning Showdown highlights, so let’s go out with a bang. Today, we put the new Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified up against the Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback. The leaks of the Speedmaster Pilot for US military […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified Vs. Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Breaking News: Swiss Court Finds John Lennon's Patek Philippe 2499 Belongs To Yoko Ono
A bombshell decision on the hotly contested ownership of a seriously special Patek Philippe.
Time+Tide
New releases from Simon Brette, Richard Mille, Breguet and more
With Christmas nearly here there seems to be no respite from brands releasing new watches, with Year of the Snake releases starting already.The post New releases from Simon Brette, Richard Mille, Breguet and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Chopard x Art in Time debut Alpine Eagle His & Hers Chameleon Set
Don't get bogged down by the traditional "his & hers" nomenclature - the set is comprised of 41mm and 36mm models.The post Chopard x Art in Time debut Alpine Eagle His & Hers Chameleon Set appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Roger W. Smith Series 4 Reviewed by Tim Mosso
The Roger W. Smith Series 4 is a real crown jewel, both out of respect and a sense that its inherent quality is obscured by less extraordinary but more bombastic rivals. It’s austere, deliberately reserved, and quietly confident amid a world of indie watches buffed and beveled brightly enough to blind an eye.
Hodinkee
Photo Report: A Visit To Nomos Glashütte
A peek behind the scenes at the German watchmaker.
Time+Tide
Our favourite Vacheron Constantin watches of 2024
A small selection of Vacheron Constantin's best of 2024, with everything from slim dress pieces to the most complicated watch in the world.The post Our favourite Vacheron Constantin watches of 2024 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Affordable Watches Of 2024 - Featuring Seiko, Echo/Neutra, Nodus, And More
Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we continue our series of best-of-the-year lists with our favorite affordable watches of 2024. This has been a great year for fans of affordable watches, with tons of releases over the last 12 months. We have seen many well-executed affordable tool watches over the past couple of years, […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Affordable Watches Of 2024 - Featuring Seiko, Echo/Neutra, Nodus, And More to read the full article.