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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

Daniel Arsham’s Hublot Meca-10 is Fluid, Frosted Sapphire SJX Watches
Hublot Meca-10 Oct 9, 2025

Daniel Arsham’s Hublot Meca-10 is Fluid, Frosted Sapphire

Following last year’s Arsham Droplet pocket watch, Daniel Arsham has just unveiled his second collaboration with Hublot, the MP-17 MECA-10 Arsham Splash Titanium Sapphire. One of the leading artists in pop culture, Daniel Arsham was inspired by the fluidity of a water droplet, explaining the streamlined, pebble-like wristwatch with an intriguing asymmetrical dial framed by a frosted sapphire crystal bezel. Mr Arsham has collaborated with brands as diverse as Porsche and Pokemon, and here he applies his aesthetic to Hublot’s Big Bang Meca-10. While the aesthetic is unlike any other Hublot, the movement inside is familiar: one of Hublot’s most interesting movements, the Meca-10 calibre with a 10-day power reserve, which was just facelifted this year to fit smaller format cases. Initial thoughts The Arsham Splash starts with a good base: the cal. 1205 Meca-10 movement is appealing both in terms of aesthetics and function. The geometric styling of the skeletonised construction is inspired by Meccano, the children’s construction toy, while the power reserve is an impressive 240 hours. I like much of the movement, except for the Etachron regulator that  I would have hoped Hublot would have replaced in this second-generation Meca-10 movement but it’s still there. Still, the Meca-10 is a logical fit for the Arsham Splash both in terms of form and function. The form of the Arsham Splash is unorthodox. Though the case has some familiar Hublot elements like the flared fl...

Seiko SARB033: Why This JDM Watch Has A Cult Following Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Oct 8, 2025

Seiko SARB033: Why This JDM Watch Has A Cult Following

The Seiko SARB033 has joined the ranks of Seiko watches that are more popular and coveted than ever - despite never having been sold outside Seiko's home country of Japan and also despite exiting the market entirely back in 2018. In this article, we explore the SARB033 and its closest siblings from the elegant collection and try to uncover what makes these hard-to-find timepieces so appealing.  Seiko SARB Collection History: Seiko introduced its SARB collection exclusively to the Japanese market in 2006, positioning it as a more upscale alternative to the sportier 5 Sport line, which also offered watches with the brand’s own automatic movements at very approachable prices. The SARB series (no, the letters don’t stand for anything, we checked) was built around the Seiko Caliber 6R15 movement, more on which below, introduced by Seiko one year prior.  The first generation of SARB watches (SARB001, SARB002, and SARB005) appears to take inspiration from the King Seiko “Vanac” editions that made a brief but impactful splash on the market in the 1970s, with their angular cases, funky dial colors and textures, and faceted crystals. The next wave (SARB007, 009, 011) goes for more of a rounded, “Retro Modern” character, with vintage designs influencing the three-hand-date dials. On the heels of that trio came the first models in the series to really break through to widespread enthusiast acclaim outside their native Japan, the mountaineering-inspired “Alpinist” m...

Kollokium’s Projekt 02 is for Friends, Family, Fools, and Flippers SJX Watches
Tudor Oct 8, 2025

Kollokium’s Projekt 02 is for Friends, Family, Fools, and Flippers

On the heels of its successful Projekt 01 with topographical pin dials, Kollokium tries something different, but not too different, with the Projekt 02 FFF&F; Edition, short for “Friends, Family, Fools, and Flippers”. This 199 piece limited edition will first be offered to the original owners of the Projekt 01 F&F;, with the balance available to the public. Initial Thoughts Kollokium will only offer this initial variant of the Projekt 02 to original owners of the first “Friends & Family” edition at a slightly discounted rate – fools and flippers also get to enjoy the lower price presumably. That is a gracious nod to its supporters, but also a smart way to build exposure leading up to the public launch. Projekt 02 takes all the elements that made Projekt 01 a success to build something is still obviously a Kollokium watch, but different enough that neither is redundant. In fact, the Projekt 02 looks very similar at a distance, but is discernibly different in hand, especially with the new case design that feels a little more compact than the original, though it measures essentially the same. The dial also gives off a very different vibe compared to the first model, with the relief motif looking like a military topographical map from a sci-fi movie. The Projekt 02 isn’t really “good value” in the conventional sense (like a high-spec Tudor), but if you ignore spec sheet the watch has a lot to offer for not that much. Besides, Kollokium lacks the economies of scal...

Xu Beihong Immortalised in Enamel on Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre s Reverso One Oct 8, 2025

Xu Beihong Immortalised in Enamel on Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso

One of the most famous Chinese artists of the modern era, Xu Beihong is best known for his ink paintings of horses and birds, which are amongst the most valuable examples of 20th century Chinese art. Three of those equine works have been reproduced in miniature enamel on the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel “Xu Beihong”. Presented in the classic Grande Taille case size, this limited edition trio continues Jaeger-LeCoultre’s longstanding tradition of transforming the case back of the Reverso into a blank canvas for art. Past works that have been miniaturised for the Reverso include Claude Monet’s Venice paintings and Shahnameh, an epic poem of ancient Persia. Initial thoughts Like other miniature enamelled Reversos, the Xu Beihong trio is impressive. The original artworks are already beautiful, and they have been reproduced in exceptionally fine detail. Even if you don’t like the works, the enamelling is clearly top quality. But like the other recent enamel Reversos, the Xu Beihong trio is expensive in comparative terms. The retail price for similar watches was almost half today’s level six years ago. This is not unique to JLC of course. But JLC doesn’t have the cachet, after a few slow years, for such strong pricing, unlike say, Patek Philippe or a hot indie brand. That’s not entirely fair since they are beautiful watches with finely executed miniature enamelling, but it is the state of affairs. Two Horses Horse running and standing Notably, this is ...

Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Review: Tudor's Most Versatile Travel Watch? Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Oct 7, 2025

Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Review: Tudor's Most Versatile Travel Watch?

Tudor has been on a roll in recent years with expanding its contemporary repertoire of watches, and has debuted several heaters across its collection this year alone. But if I were to pick out one model as a standout among the bunch over the past few years, I think that a release from 2024 still takes the cake as its most impactful addition to its modern catalog – the Black Bay 58 GMT. I know everyone might not agree with me here, and we’re all entitled to our own unique favorites (I will say the Black Bay Pro is a close second, for transparency), but there’s something about the Black Bay GMT that continuously impresses me. From its wearability to its versatility and great color palette, there’s a lot to love. So, as a testament to my Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT favoritism, today, I’m diving into the depths with this watch, exploring how it came to be, what works about it, what it possibly leaves to be desired, and, of course, some speculative guesses on where I think the brand might go next. Some Context and History  As always, it’s necessary to begin at, well, the beginning, and do a little bit of digging into the brand’s legacy to chart the trajectory of how we get to the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT. For an even further exploration into the longstanding history of Tudor GMT watches, I will refer you now to this definitive guide on the subject here. Unlike its luxurious older sibling, Tudor’s connection with GMT functionality can’t really be traced back anywher...

First Look – A New Raymond Weil Millesime Moon Phase 35mm Special Edition for Japan Monochrome
Raymond Weil Oct 7, 2025

First Look – A New Raymond Weil Millesime Moon Phase 35mm Special Edition for Japan

Raymond Weil adds a new reference to its elegant and handsome Millesime Moon Phase 35mm with a Japan-exclusive Special Edition overseen by Masayuki Hirota, Editor-in-Chief of Chronos Japan Edition. The watch retains the compact proportions, sector-dial grammar, and restrained vintage cues that made the 35mm Millesime line such a hit, then sharpens it with a two-tone […]

Video: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty – A Fresh Take On A 1970s Icon Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty – Oct 7, 2025

Video: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty – A Fresh Take On A 1970s Icon

Let’s start with the name - Laureato. It’s Italian, which we happen to like here at Fratello. Roughly translated, it means “crowned for success” or “crowned with laurels,” a reward once given to winners of sports competitions and, later, to students and artists. In Italy, laurea is also the equivalent of a master’s university degree. […] Visit Video: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty – A Fresh Take On A 1970s Icon to read the full article.

Rolex Batman vs. Batgirl: Two Iconic GMT-Masters Compared Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Oct 6, 2025

Rolex Batman vs. Batgirl: Two Iconic GMT-Masters Compared

The Rolex GMT-Master II is one of the most popular timepieces in the world, and the "Batman" and "Batgirl" versions, with their alluring black-and-blue colorways, are on many a collector's wish list. But what makes a Batman a Batman, and a Batgirl a Batgirl, and what exactly differentiates these two watches, so similar at first glance, from each other? Here we explore what makes "Rolex Batman vs. Batgirl" such a compelling matchup, and why the debate on the nicknames themselves is so intriguing. Lead image by Bonhams and Sotheby's Before Batman: A Brief History of the Rolex GMT-Master When it hit the market in 1955, one year after its unveiling, the Rolex GMT-Master was both trend-setting and genre-defining in its now-iconic conception. The original GMT-Master (Ref. 6542) was the first watch capable of displaying the time in two separate time zones thanks to the clever addition of a fourth, central 24-hour hand and a bidirectional rotating 24-hour bezel. The initials in the watch’s name signify “Greenwich Mean Time,” the system of world timekeeping based on the calculation of mean solar time from the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, London. This dual-time functionality was an innovation devised for, and developed in cooperation with, the original watch’s intended users: pilots for Pan American Airlines, at the time one of the U.S.A.’s leading commercial carriers. In that so-called Golden Age of commercial aviation, the growth of long-haul and international flights...

Seiko and Bamford Team Up for a Colorful New Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Seiko Oct 6, 2025

Seiko and Bamford Team Up for a Colorful New Limited Edition

By now the Bamford name shouldn’t be unfamiliar to you. Having just taken a breath from launching their latest collaboration with Oris, the British brand has turned its sights towards Seiko with the release of their Seiko 5 Sports BAMFORD Limited Edition. With Bamford’s track record of highlighting versus cannibalizing its collaborators, the result between the two brands has resulted in a vibrant, eye-catching release that takes inspiration from a variety of sources: Seiko’s archival collage techniques, anime, retrofuturism, and the pursuit of paradise. To best understand this collab, Bamford and Seiko produced a short anime for the release. In it, we see a salaryman at his desk, late at night. Suddenly, his Seiko 5 BAMFORD Limited Edition transports him to a verdant landscape, a sort of Eden outside of the office. While the message behind this video is fairly straightforward, it’s the creative liberty in which the two brands have taken to marry this partnership and solidifying what I have long suspected: Bamford is a concept brand versus a brand who occasionally builds products around a concept. And, as such, Seiko is all the better for it. In terms of the watch’s design, the blue skeleton dial is, of course, what one notices first, and is inspired by George Bamford’s vision of duality, attempting to capture two worlds in one design. Underneath, we see the inner mechanics of the day-date display. Further design choices which highlight Bamford’s imaginations ...

Citizen Introduces a Trio of Limited Edition Series8 Watches Inspired by Japanese Cityscapes Worn & Wound
Citizen Introduces Oct 6, 2025

Citizen Introduces a Trio of Limited Edition Series8 Watches Inspired by Japanese Cityscapes

Citizen has introduced a trio of limited edition watches in their Series8 collection, all of which are inspired by Japanese cityscapes and urban environments. It’s a bit of a departure for the Series8 collection in terms of aesthetics, or at least the point of inspiration, as these watches have typically ruminations on the natural world, or are simply stark, traditional designs that highlight the geometry of the case and integrated bracelet. These new watches all have quite a bit going on in terms of dial texture and the use of gold tones, neither of which are exactly subtle in these references.  The centerpiece of the three new LEs is a new 880 Mechanical, reference NB6035-55H, which has a gray coated case and bracelet and a textured white dial with gold tone accents. According to the Citizen, the design inspiration here is that of city lights on fallen snow against an asphalt backdrop. Of the three new watches seen here, this is the only one equipped with a GMT complication, so we also get a white and black 24 hour bezel that complements the dial quite nicely. The movement is a Citizen caliber 9054 (made by Miyota), which has local jumping hour capabilities. The case measures 41mm in diameter and 13.55mm tall, and it’s a limited edition of 1,600 pieces with a retail price of $1,695. The other two watches in Citizen’s cityscape trilogy are both 890 Mechanical references, essentially a diver with an internal rotating bezel. The NB6060-58H is likely the most straight...

Introducing: A 35mm Japan-Exclusive Raymond Weil Millesime Moon Phase Fratello
Raymond Weil Oct 6, 2025

Introducing: A 35mm Japan-Exclusive Raymond Weil Millesime Moon Phase

Stylish, thought through, sophisticated… These are just a few words to describe the 35mm Japan-only Raymond Weil Millesime Moon Phase. This limited edition of 100 pieces was brought to life with Masayuki Hirota, the editor-in-chief of Chronos Japan Edition. The small watch is clearly a historically inspired Millesime, with its sector dial marking the hours, […] Visit Introducing: A 35mm Japan-Exclusive Raymond Weil Millesime Moon Phase to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor 1926 Luna Vs. Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase Fratello
Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase It’s Oct 5, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor 1926 Luna Vs. Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase

It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for a cup of coffee and an epic showdown between two similar timepieces. After last week’s battle of affordable divers, we now turn to a less popular genre - the classic moonphase watch. Last week, Tudor surprised us with its new 1926 Luna. The latest creation certainly had people […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor 1926 Luna Vs. Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase to read the full article.

A. Lange & Söhne’s Very-Thin Saxonia Gets an Onyx Makeover SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 4, 2025

A. Lange & Söhne’s Very-Thin Saxonia Gets an Onyx Makeover

Almost exactly a year after the Lange 1 with an onyx dial, A. Lange & Söhne is following up with the Saxonia Thin Onyx. It’s essentially an upgraded version of Lange’s simplest and most affordable model, replacing the conventional silver dial with one of polished onyx stone. Available in either platinum or Honeygold – each is limited to 200 pieces – the Saxonia Thin Onyx is even more of a formal dress watch than its regular production counterpart. Notably, both variants are unique editions of the model as neither platinum or Honeygold is part of the standard offering. Initial thoughts Last year’s Lange 1 30th Anniversary with an onyx dial was an exceedingly simple but extremely appealing watch. Lange has applied the same formula to the Saxonia Thin with equal success. Admittedly, the makeover isn’t imaginative or novel, but the result is striking. The Saxonia Thin Onyx is utterly simple yet unusually reflective thanks to the polished stone dial. The look and feel is that of an ideal black tie watch. It’s probably a bit too concise and shiny for everyday wear, but I wouldn’t mind one on the wrist. Choosing between the two is difficult. They are very different yet very much the same. Both, in fact, retail for exactly the same. The platinum version has a slight edge for me, simply because of general preference for the metal. The new dial and case metal, however, come at a hefty premium. The standard model in gold retails for a bit under US$25,000, while the o...

Another Masterclass in Simplicity: A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Onyx Limited Editions Fratello
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 4, 2025

Another Masterclass in Simplicity: A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Onyx Limited Editions

A. Lange & Söhne expands its Saxonia lineup with two striking new versions of the Saxonia Thin. Available in 18K Honeygold and 950 platinum, these limited editions are paired with glossy onyx dials, showcasing a minimalist design taken to its most sophisticated extreme. The black gemstone surface gives the Saxonia Thin Onyx an even more […] Visit Another Masterclass in Simplicity: A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Onyx Limited Editions to read the full article.

Longines Spirit 39mm Review: Smaller, Cleaner Pilot's Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Oct 3, 2025

Longines Spirit 39mm Review: Smaller, Cleaner Pilot's Watches

The Longines Spirit Pilot watch collection was released back in 2020 and I recall going hands-on with the then-new pilot’s watches, which were a blend of contemporary with a dash of vintage styling. Since then, the brand has clearly listened to the response from enthusiasts who have been generally receptive to the collection, but with some consistent points of criticism. Namely, the five stars on the dial were divisive and even though it comes in 37,40, and 42mm case sizes, none felt like they hit that “Goldilocks” zone for a lot of people. Fortunately for those buyers, Longines just dropped two new watches that might be the best in the collection so far: the Longines Spirit 39mm three-hand and the new Flyback in a 39.5mm case. Longines Spirit 39mm Pilot's Watch First, let's look at the Spirit Pilot three-hand watch which comes in a stainless steel case measuring 39mm wide and 11.5mm thick with a lug-to-lug measurement of 47mm. While the gap between 39mm and 40mm doesn’t sound too dramatic, the latter has a lug-to-lug that measures just shy of 50mm which is simply too big for a lot of people. And 37mm is just too small for many of those same people. So, with that established, it’s not hard to see why this 39mm case size is so well received. The rest of the case is simple enough with alternating brushed and polished finishes, a sleek bezel, and a domed sapphire crystal with dual-sided AR coating. Finally, it also offers 100 meters of water resistance. Then there...

Nomos Expands their Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Collection with Three New Limited Editions Worn & Wound
Nomos Expands their Club Sport Oct 3, 2025

Nomos Expands their Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Collection with Three New Limited Editions

I like to think I have a good balance in my life. While I live in a very rural part of the U.S., I’m equally able to spend time in cities around the world thanks to my work. Because of this, I appreciate the late nights in unfamiliar places all the more – at home, I’m in bed by 10:00 PM most nights with my three elderly dogs. It’s this, then, that attracts me so much to the new colorways of the Club Sport neomatik Worldtime with its Night Navigation Series: Grid, Trace, and Vector. These three references are designed to highlight the bit of thrill and adventure of entering a new city and navigating by the neon signs, storefront windows, and flashing crosswalks.  While longtime readers will know we’ve featured the Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer, it still remains a favorite for those looking for a watch that can balance its sporty design with the elegance that Nomos Glashütte excels at. This is due, in part, to the proportionality of the watch itself. Clocking in at a not-too-big-not-too-small Goldilocks-sized 40mm, it feels all the more slighter with its 9.9mm thickness. In fact, it’s the thinnest watch of its kind, making it just another reason to highlight the Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer among its competitors. As mentioned, three new references have been released with this series. Trace pairs black and turquoise; Grid in amber; and Vector in olive and ecru. While each is defined by its relation to traveling at night, it works just as well as a daily watch...

Introducing Kiwame Tokyo, a New Japanese Microbrand Worn & Wound
Kiwame Tokyo Oct 2, 2025

Introducing Kiwame Tokyo, a New Japanese Microbrand

The independent watch space in Japan is one of the most interesting in the world right now. There have, of course, always been a lot of great watches coming out of Japan, but the last few years have seen a real surge in enthusiast focused releases from brands at literally every price point, and they’ve been redefining what a Japanese watch looks and feels like. We recently covered the latest release from Ōtsuka Lōtec, a daring haute horology experiment with a six figure price tag, and this year also saw the unveiling of Naoya Hida’s first perpetual calendar, which, for me personally, is still one of the very best watches I’ve laid hands on in 2025. These watches, and others, make for great examples of the breadth of Japanese watchmaking, but not everything new and interesting is prohibitively expensive. Case in point, Kiwame Tokyo, an entirely new brand that recently came across our radar.  Kiwame is the brainchild of Masami Watanabe, a 30 year veteran of the watch industry who began his career importing luxury watches from European brands to his native Japan. Over time, he also became interested in the burgeoning microbrand scene, and the stated goal of Kiwame is to create a “truly Japanese” microbrand that captures the refinement and craft that is often associated with Japanese design principles.  Kiwame debuted their first two watches only a short time ago and they quickly sold out of each 99 piece limited edition (an additional run is promised for Novembe...

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds Pink Gold Dial SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 2, 2025

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds Pink Gold Dial

A. Lange & Söhne is a serious minded brand that rarely does fancy in terms of dials, so even a simple cosmetic makeover is novel for the brand. That’s true for the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds with a pink gold dial that was just launched earlier this month, applying a striking new look to a technically compelling but arguably under-appreciated watch. Described officially as “pink gold” – it is actually solid gold – the dial is in a shade best known as “salmon”. This gives a vivid, fresh aesthetic to a watch that’s compact and surprisingly complex, combining a regulator-style display with a deadbeat seconds linked to a remontoir, as well as a hacking, zero-reset seconds. Initial thoughts The Richard Lange Jumping Seconds has always been an interesting watch in technical terms; the movement is unusual in function but typical Lange in terms of quality. Calibres like this are tangible illustrations of Lange’s prowess in both engineering and aesthetics when it comes to movements. Despite being relatively complex, the Jumping Seconds is unusually compact for a complicated Lange watch, giving it surprisingly wearable dimensions. This gives the watch tangible and intellectual appeal. But the original versions, both with silver dials, were a little boring. The subsequent version with a black dial was high contrast and more appealing. The latest version with a pink gold dial is the easiest to like. It’s an eye-catching livery that does justice to the mechanics ...

Seiko Orange Monster: Unlikely Icon Or Monstrosity? Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Oct 1, 2025

Seiko Orange Monster: Unlikely Icon Or Monstrosity?

The beginning of October is the official marker of the beginning of spooky season, at least in my opinion. In the spirit of Halloween inching closer and closer on our calendars, I thought it would be fun to take a deep dive into a watch that really channels the energy of the season, at least as far as nicknames go – the Seiko Monster. And, to lean even further into the fanfare, I’ll be focusing solely on the most Halloween-appropriate colorways of the Seiko Monster universe – that’s right, it's the bright, pumpkin-y Seiko Orange Monster from here on out. Below, I’ll be walking you through a little history lesson for context, breaking down the various generations of Seiko’s Monster diver, ultimately to help you determine for yourself if this watch is an unlikely icon or a horological monstrosity.  Seiko Monster Context First things first – the “Monster” moniker is a nickname for this line of divers that the enthusiast community came up with itself, and the brand has yet to embrace it officially. The early 2000s, at large, is representative of something of an identity crisis for the watch world, as the necessity of wristwatches as a time-keeping tool waned. Each brand has its own approach, but when I think of the early 2000s for watches, chunky, bold, imaginative, and somewhat overbuilt pieces are the first things that come to mind, especially on the heels of the relatively conservative watch designs of the 1990s. Ultimately, the origin story of the Seiko ...