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Fratello
If you’re in Los Angeles or just looking for an excuse to be, make sure Saturday, June 7th, is on your radar. That’s when Collective Horology’s Open House returns for its second year. If you’ve got even a passing interest in independent watchmaking, this is the kind of event you’ll want to check out, especially […] Visit Collective Horology’s Open House LA Event Is Back For 2025 to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Oris made its first watch for aviators, the original Big Crown, way back in 1938, and has been riffing on that ingenious and influential design ever since. Defined by its large, fluted winding crown, designed to be easy for gripping by hands in heavy pilot’s gloves, the modern Big Crown series - now hosting both the sporty ProPilot and the more elegant Pointer Date versions - has become a major pillar in the independent Swiss brand’s portfolio. In 2020, Oris launched Caliber 400, the first in-house automatic movement it had made in its long history, and debuted it inside a watch from its popular Aquis diver collection, following that model up with a Caliber 400 version of its other divers’ model, the retro-styled Divers 65. In 2022, Oris finally arranged a marriage of its oldest watch model - well, a descendant of it, anyway - with its newest exclusive movement, introducing the first ProPilot X Caliber 400 models. Now available in a variety of avant-garde colorways, these siblings to the larger, Sellita-equipped ProPilot Date models (example below) offer a marked contrast with their predecessors while still carrying the banner of the overall series. Here is what you should know about the ProPilot X, where it came from, and what Oris has been doing with it lately. The Brand History: Paul Cattin and Georges Christian founded Oris in 1904, in Hölstein, Switzerland, naming the company after a nearby brook. A maker of pocket watches and, by 1925, the increasingly...
Hodinkee
Celebrating a milestone with a new dial design, a new movement, and a friendly new price point for the brand's first manually-wound watch.
Monochrome
Two years ago, Tudor announced its entry into the world of cycling, partnering with cycling legend Fabian Cancellara to create the Tudor Pro Cycling Team. As the sole sponsor of the team, Tudor unveiled a special edition Black Bay Chrono, available exclusively to team members. Last year, on the occasion of the Giro d’Italia 2024, […]
Revolution
Revolution’s Editor-at-Large Ken Kessler examines the birth pangs of the wristwatch during the Roaring Twenties.
Fratello
I admit I had to Google this one! That is all on me, though, as I’m not into movies so much. Actor Colman Domingo was at the Met Gala 2025 sporting a yet-to-be-released Omega Speedmaster Professional in Moonshine Gold. Speedmaster reverse panda in Moonshine Gold Colman Domingo has played many roles in movies and series, […] Visit Watch Spotting: A New Omega Speedmaster Reverse Panda In Moonshine Gold to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Given the glum global economic news, Thomas Brechtel wasn't expecting much from W&W; 2025. However, he was wrong as these watches and clock illustrate.
Fratello
It will come as no surprise to our regular readers that I love vintage watches. Some of you may remember that I recently purchased a vintage King Seiko ref. 45-7001 45KS. Now, some months into owning that vintage King Seiko, I have decided to modify it with a sapphire case back. After some research, I […] Visit Modifying Your Vintage Watch With A Sapphire Case Back to read the full article.
SJX Watches
While the most valuable lot at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction will likely be the Breguet Sympathique clock no. 1, the sale also includes a few unexpected and interesting lots. One standout is the Louis Vuitton Escale Spin Time “Only Watch”, a unique piece created for the Only Watch charity auction in 2019. Consigned by the original owner – who is a prominent collector whom I greatly respect – the Spin Time is a flamboyant, gem-set take on Louis Vuitton’s signature complication. The centrepiece is a miniature enamel dial by Anita Porchet depicting a motif inspired by tattoo art. This unique Spin Time originally sold for CHF280,000 at Only Watch 2019. Now carrying an estimate of CHF40,000-80,000, the watch will go on the block at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction taking place on May 10, 2025. Initial thoughts I was a fan of this Spin Time when it was first revealed in 2019. In fact, I bid on it at Only Watch, but I was laughably uncompetitive and far from the CHF280,000 hammer. In contrast to the latest generation of Spin Time that is both refined and discreet, this watch is over the top and I like it because of that. The aesthetic is a lot, maybe too much, but it works. Most importantly, the watch is not just about extravagant styling. The dial is the work of Anita Porchet herself, combining both miniature painting and champleve. Certainly the motif is not for everyone, but the quality of craft is unmistakeable. A rose among the thorns This unique Spin Time...
Worn & Wound
We haven’t remarked on it all that much to this point, but one of the inescapable trends at Watches & Wonders this year was a prevalence of F1 cars making appearances around the Palexpo. If you scheduled your meetings in a particular way, you could easily be convinced that every Swiss watch brand has some level of involvement with the sport. IWC, of course, is just beginning to promote F1, the highly anticipated new film starring Brad Pitt that is said to feature many, many IWC watches. And then there’s TAG Heuer, whose parent company LVMH secured a lucrative deal with Formula 1 in the off season, and returned TAG to official timekeeper status. Both of these brands had actual cars in their booths, and they drew a crowd all week. Then there’s H. Moser, a sponsor of the Alpine team, and finally (please get in the comments if I’ve missed one) there’s Tudor, a partner of the Visa Cash App Racing Bulls Formula One Team, who took this weekend’s Miami GP as an opportunity to release their latest racing themed watch, the Black Bay Chrono Carbon 25. The limited edition (2,025 numbered examples) chronograph is modeled on the Black Bay Chronograph, a watch that has seen its share of special editions in the last few years, mostly by way of colored dials. This watch is a little different as it represents an all new case material for the Black Bay Chrono, making use of Tudor’s carbon fiber composite material (the caseback, pushers, and crown are all rendered in titanium ...
Deployant
Rudis Sylva releases a new colour-way for the 2025 season. We met up with Jacky Epitaux, the CEO, and he showed us the new watch.
Time+Tide
This dressy, unisex-sized rectangular model represents an interesting change of direction for the brand, as well as great value.The post The Monchard Étape is a Swedish love letter to Art Deco watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
First teased at Watches and Wonders 2025, this sporty motorsports chronograph is the first carbon fibre Tudor Black Bay ever.The post Tudor unveils its raciest Formula 1 watch yet, the Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Twenty-twenty-four marked Greubel Forsey’s 20th anniversary, an occasion celebrated with their first chronograph, the Nano Foudroyante EWT. The brand’s tenth “Fundamental Innovation” since its founding back in 2004, the Nano Foudroyante EWT is a flyback chronograph with a flying tourbillon and an independent micro-scale lightning seconds, or foudroyante. The watch marked many firsts for the brand. Aside from being Greubel Forsey’s first chronograph, it is also the brand’s first flying tourbillon – noteworthy given its longtime focus on the tourbillon. Despite its extensive history with innovative tourbillon constructions, Greubel Forsey (GF) has never before created one with a flying architecture. Initial thoughts GF is often regarded as among the best in terms of innovative watchmaking and artisanal chronometry. Although the brand’s styling can arguably be too much at times, its core signature of high-end horology is unmistakable and defined by exemplary finishing and exceptional engineering in equal measure. The Nano Foudroyante EWT is interesting in many respects. The combination of complications is unusual, even for GF, and feels like more of a conceptual platform to present the “nano” sized lightning seconds (that runs independently of the chronograph). That said, execution is typical of GF in being high quality all around. It is a perfect example of the brand’s approach to watchmaking, both decoration- and engineering-wise. Similarly, the ae...
Deployant
Today, we are trying out something new. And make recommendations for vacation destinations. These are locations which we are intimately familiar.
SJX Watches
In what’s become an annual tradition, Tudor has just revealed a special edition on the eve of the Miami Grand Prix. But unlike last year’s Black Bay “Chameleon” destined only for the drivers of the Visa Cash App RB Formula 1 Team (VCARB), the Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” is a commercially available timepiece – but in a limited edition of 2,025 pieces. The Carbon 25 is presented in a carbon composite case, matched with a domed dial in the colours of the VCARB team that also sports carbon composite registers. Initial thoughts I’m a fan of Tudor in general, mainly because of the strong value proposition the brand offers in all its watches. The chronographs stand out as amongst the best in the price segment. However, the chronographs in steel are a little thick and weighty; the Carbon 25 definitely reduces the weight substantially, and it’s also a tiny bit slimmer. Tudor already has a carbon-case chronograph in the collection (that is actually thinner), but the Carbon 25 has a more appealing case design that retains all of the elements of the steel case, including the bevelled lugs. One detail that stands out are the carbon composite inserts in between the lugs that give the strap a better visual integration into the case. I like the Carbon 25, enough that I would buy one, but the watch is the most expensive chronographs in the Tudor catalogue, with a price of US$7,575. It is still well priced compared to the competition, but priced substantially more expensi...
Deployant
Tudor released a new Black Bay 58, now with a brilliant burgundy dial and a matching bezel. The deep red hue isn’t just a bold aesthetic choice; it’s a tribute to a 1990s Tudor Submariner prototype that featured a similar burgundy dial and bezel. While that prototype never made it to production, its influence is undeniable in this new release.
Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier CEO Guido Terreni tells us how to make complicated watches minimal, and where the brand is heading in 2025.The post Parmigiani Fleurier CEO Guido Terreni tells us how to make complicated watches minimal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
The gold price stands at an all-time high. Still, gold watches command prices far exceeding the value of the material added to the base price of the equivalent watch in steel. Why is that? What makes gold watches so costly? The popular answer is because of greed. But that is cutting some corners. Let’s try […] Visit Gold Is King - Why Gold Watches Are More Expensive Than The Material Warrants to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Before I get into my owner's review of the Seiko Baby Alpinist, I want to talk about field watches as a category. What makes a field watch? Is an explorers' watch the same as a field watch? Is a mountaineering watch? I wouldn’t necessarily call this, or rather these, age-old questions. Instead they illustrate an intellectual conundrum I’ve personally faced, being a fan of a certain format of watches. Many who know me will also be sure to know I have a certain proclivity toward Rolex watches. I once wrote some of a definite treatise on the Rolex Explorer Ref. 14270 - the now neo-vintage version of the watch that was born right at the start of the 1990s and which has since served as the template for all Explorers to come. Its 36mm size, legible dial, and overall no-nonsense field-watch format have made it one of the best watch designs of all time. But it’s also not really a field watch, is it? It was born as a marketing exercise in the wake of Sir Edmund Hilary’s summiting of Everest alongside Tenzig Norgay. It’s an explorers watch, one with alpine roots. The Seiko Baby Alpinist SPB155 Speaking of alpine, we cannot mention the word without invoking one of the most well-known attainable icons of the 1990s and 2000s: The Seiko Alpinist. But let’s go back even further, to the late 1950s and early ‘60s, when Seiko launched the small, 35mm Laurel Alpinist – a design that was revived by the brand in 2021. Fast-forward to 1995, when Seiko released a familiar forma...
Monochrome
Independent watchmaking continues to thrive with imaginative creations, and Stefan Kudoke remains a standout name to watch. His HANDwerk collection, launched in 2019, established his reputation for blending mechanical finesse with artistic expression. The Kudoke 1 and Kudoke 2 exemplified this fusion beautifully. With the Kudoke 3, he pushed the design further, retaining his signature […]
Deployant
The Sarpaneva Supernova gets new inspiration and now released as an evolved state. Also known as the Sarpanova, is now bigger, badder than ever before.
SJX Watches
If you want to own the world’s thinnest mechanical watch, the Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing, you’ll have to fight for it at The Geneva Watch Auction: XXI, which will see the first production example go under the hammer. The 1.65 mm stature of the ThinKing is even more impressive coming from a small Russian independent watchmaker, considering previous records were set by big Swiss brands ranging from Piaget to Richard Mille. Notably, this is not the first time a landmark release has been trusted to an auction that isn’t linked to a charity. The most famous example of this was the Patek Philippe Calibre 89 (ref. 989J) back in 1989 at Antiquorum’s thematic sale. The ThinKing will be sold in the first session of the auction, which starts on May 10, 2025, at 2 pm. The ThinKing in profile. Image – Phillips Mr Chaykin achieved the record-setting height with clever construction, including a “double balance wheel” system that places an intermediate wheel between the balance and escapement, allowing both to sit on the same plane. Another notable technical feature is a barrel that is open on both sides, and no thicker than the mainspring itself. And unlike most serially-produced Konstantin Chaykin watches, each ThinKing is made, finished, and assembled by Mr Chaykin himself. Wearability is enhanced by the bolt-on protective shroud in titanium christened “PalanKing”. This increases the height to 5.4 mm, but adds key-less setting and winding, and automatic winding by a...
Fratello
Today, we’ll briefly examine two new Certina DS-1 Big Date Collection variants. While we’ve typically covered some of Certina’s sportier watches here on Fratello, it’s important to remember that models like the DS-1 form the foundation for a brand. Watch nerds aside, pieces like this sell in large numbers. The DS-1 Big Date was introduced […] Visit Hot Take: Two New Certina DS-1 Big Date Watches With Matte Cases to read the full article.
Monochrome
If you’re going to have a date function on a watch, make it legible. For people of a certain age, there is nothing more frustrating than squinting your eyes to consult the date. Big dates are the heavyweight champions of the date function, proudly revealing their double digits. While the big date display is intimately […]
Fratello
Manufacturers of ebauche watch movements have a major impact on the watch industry. They might not be the sexiest of companies, but their decisions directly determine what new watches we can expect to see from brands. When Miyota recently announced a flyer GMT caliber (Caliber 9075), we soon saw a flurry of new affordable flyer […] Visit Caliber Cravings: New Ebauche Watch Movements We Would Like To See to read the full article.
SJX Watches
After teasing collectors with the compact Chronomètre Furtif Bleu in 2023, F.P. Journe has unveiled its successor, the Chronomètre Furtif (CF). The CF offers the same dimensions as its predecessor as well as a similar laser-engraved grand feu enamel dial, but takes the idea of furtif, or “stealthy”, even further with black-on-black livery. While the CF Bleu was a one-off piece in tantalum made for the Only Watch charity auction where it sold for CHF2 million, the new CF is a regular production model crafted almost entirely from scratch-resistant tungsten carbide. Initial thoughts The CF is a watch that hits you over the head with its intense darkness and exceptional weight. It’s not dark in the same way as an H. Moser & Cie. Venturer Vantablack, which effectively absorbs light; rather, the dial is a deep glossy black like the glass of an iPhone screen. This reflectivity makes it difficult to photograph but easy to enjoy. These characteristics are thanks to the flawless black grand feu enamel dial and laser-engraved markings. Because of the way the light plays across the dial, it looks slightly different from almost every angle. It’s a dramatic and interactive dial that contributes significantly to the overall wearing experience. The CF is a true heavyweight, tipping the scales at 250 g. But it feels even heavier on account of its wearable 42 mm footprint and slim 9.55 mm thickness. This size-to-weight ratio gives it an almost overwhelming sense of density. The wa...
Hodinkee
Hong Kong owners have sold the Swiss brand known for its unique Coin Watch and Golden Bridge timepieces.
Teddy Baldassarre
There’s not much left to say about the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 that hasn’t already been said. It’s a watch that feels like it’s always been there, even though it was only released by Tissot in 2021, at exactly the right moment in history. With integrated-bracelet designs on the upswing, Tissot brought one to market that was fun, well designed, and well priced. It also happened to be based on an original ‘70s Seastar design from the brand. It was an instant hit, and the brand was quick to capitalize on its initial success by fleshing out a full collection, including different sizes, materials, and even movement options, culminating in the PRX Powermatic 80. The PRX Powermatic 80 was introduced in both 35mm and 40mm variations, and quickly saw a variety of dial, case, and strap options that brought a diverse personality to the collection as a whole. In 2025, it feels like a fully mature staple of Tissot’s offerings, and the integrated-bracelet trend is showing no real signs of slowing down (more thoughts on that later), which should grant the watch a bright future. That said, I (and many others) will be curious to see how the PRX ends up evolving, and whether or not it will have real staying power for generations to come. Either way, for what it is right now, it’s a tough watch to beat when it comes to value and personality. It's that combination that is the real draw of the PRX, and today, in 2025, it’s only strengthened. The PRX Powermatic 80 remains w...
Time+Tide
A voluptuous titanium case, unique mirrored caseback and architectural in-house movement make this ArtyA an intriguing prospect.The post ArtyA go back to the future with the very 90s yet very futuristic Purity Wavy HMS Mirror appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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