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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.
SJX Podcast: Quest of Time SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin just unveiled Oct 1, 2025

SJX Podcast: Quest of Time

On episode 11 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon Moore discuss the monumental La Quête Du Temps astronomical clock that Vacheron Constantin just unveiled in Paris alongside the companion Quest of Time wristwatch. We also tackle Tudor’s first moon phase complication and what it means for the brand’s collection of dress watches. SJX also shares his views on the news that Rolex chief executive Jean-Frédéric Dufour will be giving the keynote at Dubai Watch Week, a move that’s largely unprecedented for the industry’s most impenetrable brand. We also chat about the other big news in the world of watch fairs, Audemars Piguet’s return to Watches & Wonders in 2026. Last but not least, we discuss what Girard-Perregaux’s new movement platform might reveal about the future of the brand. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

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Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Chronograph RD#5, a Thin Watch with Tall Ambitions SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet s Royal Oak Chronograph Oct 1, 2025

Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Chronograph RD#5, a Thin Watch with Tall Ambitions

Audemars Piguet (AP) reinvents the chronograph with the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5. Inside the titanium and palladium BMG case – standing just 8.1 mm high – is the cal. 8100, a new take on the chronograph mechanism that employs spring-loaded racks to gather and store energy. The RD#5 is the fifth and final instalment in the “RD” series of watches that underline the impressive technical know-how of AP, particularly its Le Locle manufacture that evolved from Renaud & Papi (APRP). Conceived with the goal of creating a chronograph that is extra slim and easy on the fingers, the RD#5 boasts exceptionally light and comfortable pusher feel, an instantaneously-jumping minutes counter, and an exceptionally slim profile (thanks in part to peripheral winding), all while remaining amenable to industrial-haute horlogerie manufacturing. It’s one of the most technically interesting debuts of 2025, and we explain AP’s new take on the chronograph in detail below. The cal. 8100 with its unorthodox chronograph and peripheral rotor Initial thoughts Outwardly just another Royal Oak, with the same ideal proportions and class-leading bracelet as the iconic “Jumbo”, the RD#5 is actually one of the most innovative mechanical chronographs in recent years. Perhaps the only comparison for out-of-the-box chronograph construction is AgenGraphe that was unveiled almost a decade ago. The watch was evidently developed with two goals in ...

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Spices Up Its Master Control Calendar With A Grained Two-Tone Sector Dial Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Spices Up Sep 30, 2025

Jaeger-LeCoultre Spices Up Its Master Control Calendar With A Grained Two-Tone Sector Dial

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control collection is certainly not the brand’s dressiest work. However, the impressive watches, many of which are complete calendars, still look fairly formal. Well, that’s about to change because the watchmaker from the Vallée de Joux is launching a sportier new version of its Master Control Calendar. It features a two-tone gray sector […] Visit Jaeger-LeCoultre Spices Up Its Master Control Calendar With A Grained Two-Tone Sector Dial to read the full article.

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Dubai Watch Week 2025 Panel Highlights and Rolex CEO Keynote SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Chopard Sep 29, 2025

Dubai Watch Week 2025 Panel Highlights and Rolex CEO Keynote

In less than two months, industry leaders will gather in Dubai for Dubai Watch Week (DWW), an event that has become a focal point of the industry since launching a decade ago. The 2025 edition will take place from November 19-23 in a new 200,000 sq ft venue next to Dubai Mall in order accommodate a slate of 90 brands; the largest line-up in its history, up nearly 50% compared to the 2023 edition. As ever, a highlight of DWW is the opportunity to hear directly from industry leaders during the various panel discussions. This year’s line-up includes some of the biggest names in watchmaking with a keynote from Rolex chief executive Jean-Frédéric Dufour, in conversation with Abdul Hamied Seddiqi, provocatively titled, ‘The Time to Act is Now – a note to the watch industry.” Mr Dufour rarely speaks publicly at a watch event, so this is one of the most significant happenings at DWW. In total, more than 50 sessions will take place across the five days of the event covering a variety of topics ranging from luxury and legacy in the age of algorithms and virality, to the reality of future-proofing founder-led independent brands; the latter will be a fireside chat with Max Büsser and Kari Voutilainen. There will also be a new chief executive roundtable featuring Georges Kern, Ilaria Resta, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, and Julien Tornare, the heads of Breitling, Audemars Piguet, Chopard, and Hublot, respectively. DWW takes place from November 19-23, 2025 in Burj Park adjacent t...

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Is Watches And Wonders Turning Into Baselworld 2.0? Also, Audemars Piguet Is Back Fratello
Audemars Piguet Sep 29, 2025

Is Watches And Wonders Turning Into Baselworld 2.0? Also, Audemars Piguet Is Back

The SIHH, or Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, was a watch trade show founded in 1991 by Cartier, Baume & Mercier, Piaget, Gerald Genta, and Daniel Roth. Organized by the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), the show, compared to Baselworld, aimed to create a more exclusive, high-luxury atmosphere dedicated to fine watchmaking and […] Visit Is Watches And Wonders Turning Into Baselworld 2.0? Also, Audemars Piguet Is Back to read the full article.

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A History and Guide to Oris Worn & Wound
Oris Nestled Sep 28, 2025

A History and Guide to Oris

Nestled in a small valley in the Jura Mountains, Hölstein is a typical Swiss town that has endured for centuries. At its center, a pastel pink factory has seen many of them. Its story began in 1904 when Paul Cattin and Georges Christian purchased the closed Lohner & Co watch factory. Searching for a name, they settled on a nearby brook - Oris. It turned out to be a winning formula. By 1911, Oris was the largest employer in Hölstein with 300 workers and two additional factories in Holderbank and Como. They introduced staff housing to cope with the influx of talent. Just fourteen years later they opened two additional factories, paving the way for future growth. Nestled in a small valley in the Jura Mountains, Hölstein is a typical Swiss town that has endured for centuries. At its center, a pastel pink factory has seen many of them. Its story began in 1904 when Paul Cattin and Georges Christian purchased the closed Lohner & Co watch factory. Searching for a name, they settled on a nearby brook - Oris. It turned out to be a winning formula. By 1911, Oris was the largest employer in Hölstein with 300 workers and two additional factories in Holderbank and Como. They introduced staff housing to cope with the influx of talent. Just fourteen years later they opened two additional factories, paving the way for future growth. The post A History and Guide to Oris appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Report: Toronto Timepiece Show And Timepiece World Awards 2025 Fratello
Sep 28, 2025

Report: Toronto Timepiece Show And Timepiece World Awards 2025

Last week, I had the pleasure of visiting the Toronto Timepiece Show. I was also a jury member for the Timepiece World Awards, so I had some formalities to attend to. But more about that later; let’s talk about the show first. Toronto Timepiece Show Over 75 watch brands exhibited at the Toronto Timepiece Show, […] Visit Report: Toronto Timepiece Show And Timepiece World Awards 2025 to read the full article.

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Sunday Morning Showdown: Lorier Neptune Vs. Baltic Aquascaphe MK2 Fratello
Baltic Aquascaphe MK2 Welcome Sep 28, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Lorier Neptune Vs. Baltic Aquascaphe MK2

Welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown! Daan and Thomas face off with two affordable vintage-inspired dive watches this time. Thomas defends the Lorier Neptune, while Daan represents the new Baltic Aquascaphe MK2. These contenders have the aesthetic of ’50s and ’60s dive watches and house modern Miyota movements in 39(.5)mm cases. The Lorier costs US$599, […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Lorier Neptune Vs. Baltic Aquascaphe MK2 to read the full article.

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Watches, Stories, and Gear: Peak Design x Sitka, Spinnaker’s Nessie, Polyagonal Turning, and a Cool New F1 Merchandise Worn & Wound
Sep 27, 2025

Watches, Stories, and Gear: Peak Design x Sitka, Spinnaker’s Nessie, Polyagonal Turning, and a Cool New F1 Merchandise

Rereleased: The Peak Design x Sitka Optifade Marsh Slide Lite Peak Design has once again collaborated with Sitka, hunting and outdoor experts, on a limited edition Slide Lite camera strap. Crafted in Sitka’s Optifade Marsh pattern, this strap blends comfort, versatility, and Peak Designs quick-connection system with the unique aesthetics and outdoors benefits of Sitka’s legendary concealment know-how. Wether you’re trying to blend in, or stand out, this camera strap might just be the perfect accessory for you.  Full specifications of the strap and details on how this collaboration came to be are available on Peak Design’s website.   Spinnaker and Scottish Watches release the Nessie Pear Diver Spinnaker Watches has announced its newest rendition of the Fleuss Automatic Nessie Pearl Diver Limited Edition, created in collaboration with Scottish Watches. This timepiece plunges into the depths of Loch Ness, drawing inspiration from Scotland’s legendary waters and its most mysterious inhabitant. Powered by a Miyota 8245, this collaborative piece features a mother of pearl dial, and Nessie illustrations on the small seconds dial and rotor. Limited to 650 pieces, the Nessie Pearl Diver was released on September 65, and retails for $425. For more details on the release, check out the official release page here. Tactile Turn Polyagonal Collection While Tactile Turn might be known for their cylindrical, machine finished writing devices, they’re unlocking a new machining...

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Hands-On With Two Praesidus Victory Watches - Champagne And Classic Fratello
Sep 27, 2025

Hands-On With Two Praesidus Victory Watches - Champagne And Classic

About a month ago, Dave wrote about a new series of dress watches from Praesidus. This was a first for the young brand that usually focuses on military-themed field watches and chronographs. But even if it is a dress watch, it would not be a Praesidus without a link to a historical military event. The […] Visit Hands-On With Two Praesidus Victory Watches - Champagne And Classic to read the full article.

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eBay Finds: A Hard to Find Seiko Diver, a Dressy Omega, and a Couple of Cool Vintage Chronos Worn & Wound
Bulova Chronograph  Here’s Sep 26, 2025

eBay Finds: A Hard to Find Seiko Diver, a Dressy Omega, and a Couple of Cool Vintage Chronos

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Seiko Sportsmatic SilverWave 69799  Starting off this week with a killer vintage Seiko, and one you don’t see for sale often. This 1964 Sportsmatic SilverWave is just really cool. The SilverWave is one of Seiko’s earliest divers, with a water resistance rating of 30 meters and an internal rotating countdown bezel. The 38mm steel case is a great size, and it’s in good shape. The original crown is at 4 o’clock, and when it’s in the “in” position, you can turn it to rotate the inner bezel. The silver dial is nice, showing a touch of aging as is the bezel. The snap-on caseback still shows the Seiko wave log and the serial number which dates it to April 1964. The automatic movement is clean and it runs well per the seller. This comes on a Seiko beads of rice bracelet which isn’t original, but looks great. Nice example of a hard to find early Seiko diver! View auction here Vintage Bulova Chronograph  Here’s a real beauty, a vintage Bulova chronograph that features a stunning slate blue dial with dual silver subdials. The 37mm squarish case looks good, still exhibiting the original brushed finish on the top. The dial looks mint, with nice steel stick markers and hands. Ther...

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Bremont’s New Direction: Davide Cerrato on Challenges, Vision, and British Watchmaking Worn & Wound
Bremont s New Direction Davide Sep 26, 2025

Bremont’s New Direction: Davide Cerrato on Challenges, Vision, and British Watchmaking

It’s not hyperbole to say that Bremont’s presentation at Watches & Wonders 2024 was one of the most hotly discussed and contentious events in the watch industry in years. The British brand, long associated with their founders, brothers Nick and Giles English, was now under the control of a new CEO, watch industry veteran Davide Cerrato, and a new ownership group. We knew ahead of time that the watches presented at the show would represent a new direction for the brand, one that would apparently see them reaching for the mass market, well beyond the deep enthusiast core audience they had cultivated so carefully since the brand’s founding. What we didn’t know at the time was the watches, a new logo, and a surprising new look and feel for the brand itself would cause so much consternation.  It’s a common complaint that watch media types are soft on watches that are objectively bad. Think of all the times you’ve seen a comment on an Instagram post or a watch article asking sarcastically if a piece of editorial content is bought and paid for by a brand. That somewhat ridiculous line of thinking is a topic for another day, but I think it’s fair to say no one accused any real writer of being soft on Bremont during Watches & Wonders 2024 and in the weeks shortly thereafter. Our own post was, I thought, a fairly balanced critique compared to some. My opinion in the days after the show was very much a first, hazy impression of a brand that had suddenly lost its footin...

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[VIDEO] 10 Great Watches for Small to Medium Sized Wrists Worn & Wound
Sep 26, 2025

[VIDEO] 10 Great Watches for Small to Medium Sized Wrists

In this video, we look at 10 (roughly) different watches that, due to their dimensions or case architecture, are ideally suited for those with small to medium-sized wrists. We all know how crushing it can be when you see a watch that captures your attention, only to later discover that the size will not work for your personal preferences. Hopefully, this list helps, and as always, please leave your picks in our comments section! In this video, we look at 10 (roughly) different watches that, due to their dimensions or case architecture, are ideally suited for those with small to medium-sized wrists. We all know how crushing it can be when you see a watch that captures your attention, only to later discover that the size will not work for your personal preferences. Hopefully, this list helps, and as always, please leave your picks in our comments section! The post [VIDEO] 10 Great Watches for Small to Medium Sized Wrists appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Hands-On Review: TAG Heuer’s Latest Formula 1 Solargraph WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer s Latest Formula 1 Sep 26, 2025

Hands-On Review: TAG Heuer’s Latest Formula 1 Solargraph

TAG Heuer’s latest Formula 1 refresh blends the collection’s colourful 1986 spirit with modern materials and solar-powered convenience. From the versatile steel Silverstone GP to the lightweight, vibrant TH-Polylight Monza GP, these watches show that racing DNA can still be fun, practical, and stylish! What We Love Successfully brings the colorful spirit of the 1986 original models with modern materials and solargraph movement Collection offers versatility with steel and TH-Polylight materials Solargraph movement is the best option for the quartz model. No battery changes, long autonomy, and eco-friendly. What We Don’t TH-Polylight bezels/cases won’t have the same scratch resistance or perceived “luxury” feel as steel. With a 38mm case size, enthusiasts who like larger watches may find it too small. Limited editions tied to specific races may be hard to secure or try on before purchase. Overall Rating: 8.6/10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 The story of TAG Heuer and Formula 1 is one of new beginnings. A tale that starts not in a quiet Swiss valley, but on the screaming straights of Monaco, Silverstone, and Suzuka. The story goes all the way back to 1986, when the watchmaker, now freshly going under the wing of Techniques d’Avant Garde, forming TAG Heuer, built a timepiece that matched the energy of the sport that it sponsored: light, colourful, and unafraid to stand out. The Formula 1 collection was released dur...

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15 Best Purple-Dial Watches From Affordable to Luxury Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 25, 2025

15 Best Purple-Dial Watches From Affordable to Luxury

Purple is the color of royalty, and it appears that a Purple Reign has started to quietly take over the watch world in recent years, with violet hues finding their way to an increasing number of dials, from a somewhat surprisingly diverse range of watch brands. Like their predecessors in green, red, and orange, purple dials are still, in fact, something of a novelty; many of the timepieces featured below are intended for a niche, limited audience. Nevertheless, the rise of purple tones on watch dials is worthy of notice, and almost certainly here to stay for a while, Here we’ve gathered 15 of our favorite purple-dial watches in ascending order of price, from under $500 to over $85K. Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Sunray Purple Dial Price: $475, Case Size: 37mm, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Caliber 8210 Best known for its light-powered Eco-Drive movements, Japan’s Citizen also offers a lineup of mechanical timepieces, including the NJ015 automatic series, nicknamed “Tsuyosa,” a Japanese word meaning “strength.” Speaking to the contemporary trend towards eye-catching colorful dials, Tsuyosa models offer a variety of them, with a subtle sunburst finish, including the purple dial watch above. The round, chamfered steel cases measure 40mm in diameter and 11.7mm thick, with an unconventionally positioned crown at 4 o’clock for better ergonomics on the wrist. The bracelet has what Citizen describes as a “mountain-shaped” design ...

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Hands On: Christiaan van der Klaauw Planetarium Meteorite SJX Watches
Christiaan van der Klaauw Planetarium Meteorite When it Sep 25, 2025

Hands On: Christiaan van der Klaauw Planetarium Meteorite

When it comes to planetarium wristwatches, Christiaan van der Klaauw (CvdK) has little competition, since it owns much of the intellectual property behind the complication. But that hasn’t stopped the brand from competing with itself, and the result the Grand Planetarium Eccentric Meteorite, the most complete model of the solar system ever put in a wristwatch. It’s a maximalist approach to the planetarium concept that’s almost overwhelming in look and feel, thanks to the rich texture of its solid 44 mm meteorite case and busy dial. Building on the Grand Planetarium Eccentric from 2024, the Eccentric Meteorite manages to squeeze in the astroid belt, which is itself embellished with chunks of meteorite that originated on Mars. Intended to be a limited edition of three pieces, it’s possible that just two will be made given the limited quantity of meteorite on hand. The sun at the center of the dial functions as a running indicator, rotating once per minute. Initial thoughts The planetarium is among the most romantic of all complications due to its inherent uselessness; unlike a minute repeater or perpetual calendar, there’s not much action that can be taken with the information provided. But mankind has sought to understand its place in the universe for millennia, and the planetarium offers an intuitive way to visualise our real-time location relative to the sun and the other planets in our solar system. There’s also a strange appeal to the glacially slow speed of...

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IWC is Timekeeper for First Commercial Space Station SJX Watches
IWC Sep 25, 2025

IWC is Timekeeper for First Commercial Space Station

Founded by a crypto billionaire, Vast is developing the first-ever commercial space station, and IWC is now its official timekeeper. The IWC-Vast partnership continues the watchmaker’s recent involvement with commercial and civilian space travel, which included a series of special watches for the first all-civilian space flight in 2021. The Vast control centre Vast was founded in 2021 by Jed McCaleb, an entrepreneur who set up the now defunct crypto exchange Mt. Gox and later helped develop Ripple, a crypto platform. With a ten-figure fortune from his crypto ventures, Mr McCaleb has funded Vast and its ambition of creating artificial gravity space stations. Inside Haven-1 Sometime in 2026, Vast is planning to launch Haven-1, a small space station in low Earth orbit. Over the next two decades, Vast aims to build larger stations and eventually a fleet of them. Haven-1 under construction What can we expect from IWC partnership? According to IWC, the tie-up will “enable IWC to… develop spaceflight-ready watches. At Vast headquarters, Vast engineers will test prototypes… in a similar way to some of the hardware that will fly on Haven Demo and Haven-1 – a testament to the authenticity of IWC’s aerospace lineage.”  

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Explained: Dial Making at A. Lange & Söhne SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 25, 2025

Explained: Dial Making at A. Lange & Söhne

Since its rebirth in 1994, A. Lange & Söhne has built an enviable reputation among collectors, based in large part on its rich portfolio of movements. Visiting the manufacture in Glashütte, it’s easy to see why; nearly all of the roughly 650 staff are engaged in some aspect of movement production. As a result, in little more than 30 years, Lange has commercialised 75 distinct calibers and has the manpower to apply a consistent level of finishing across the entire range, from the simple to the sublime. Historically, this single-minded focus on movements has meant that dials have often taken a back seat. Though uniformly high quality and made of noble materials like sterling silver and solid 18k gold, the brand’s dials tend to be simple, classical, and austere. An obvious exception that springs to mind is the sapphire crystal-dialed Lumen series, but sapphire crystal is a common material in watchmaking and these dials tend to be produced in a relatively industrial manner. Despite its focus on movements, Lange began to stretch its wings with artisanal dials as far back as the year 2000, first with enamel and later with mother-of-pearl, guilloché, tremblage, free-hand engraving, aventurine glass, and onyx. Most of these dials were produced by suppliers, but the brand has quietly built an immensely talented team of engravers and enamellists since launching the Handwerkskunst editions in 2011, and now crafts some of the industry’s most extraordinary dials within its own...

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Seiko Tank Review: This $210 Dress Watch Is A Hidden Gem Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Sep 24, 2025

Seiko Tank Review: This $210 Dress Watch Is A Hidden Gem

Seiko has no shortage of dress watches, many of which come from the Presage collection, which boasts some of the best values out there. That said, I recently came across a watch that not only comes from the Japanese brand's more basic, entry-level Essentials collection, but is actually the cheapest Seiko out there at the moment. Yes, the Seiko SWR064 is affectionately dubbed the Seiko Tank for obvious reasons, but there is something distinctly Japanese about it. I had my initial doubts about this watch, but when factoring in the design, style, and price, there was no real way of getting around the fact that this is a starter dress watch that exudes value. Let's get into why. Seiko "Tank" Case The case of this Seiko “Tank” is done in stainless steel, with a gold-plated finish that really fits in with the retro styling. I’m usually really turned off by gold-plating but the cohesiveness with the dial elements pulls it together. As for the size, it measures 27.9mm wide, 38.5mm tall, and 6.7mm thick (30 meters of water resistance). For the sake of comparison, the Cartier Tank Louis “Extra Large” comes in at 27.75mm wide, 38.1mm tall, and 8.18mm thick, so the sizes are very close. There’s not a lot of chatter about this watch out there but I did notice some people say it’s too big to be anything like a Tank, which is demonstrably false. The similarities don’t stop there, as the positioning of the brancards is similar - though I do wish they were just a little b...

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