Revolution
Lange Makes a Steel Watch: the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus
Introducing the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus, featuring their new day-date complication in a steel case and on a steel bracelet.
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Revolution
Introducing the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus, featuring their new day-date complication in a steel case and on a steel bracelet.
SJX Watches
It’s been an open secret for years that A. Lange & Söhne has been working on a sports watch, ever since the time of its founding chief executive Gunter Blumlein, so the latest launch is not a surprise. Ideas percolate for a long time at Lange: the digital time display, for instance, was first mooted in 2001, but only introduced in 2009 with the Zeitwerk. And now it is has finally arrived. Named Odysseus Datomatic, the watch is a day-date that’s the first in a new line of sports watches of the same name. It’s a 40.5mm watch in steel, rated to 120m, and powered by a new automatic movement. Initial thoughts I like and respect Lange tremendously, because its products are all engineered and finished well. Despite being a largely mainstream brand owned by a luxury group, Lange has managed to retain its characteristic quality. I do find some of the watches needlessly complicated or over designed, but the fundamental quality is unquestionable. For that reason, I hoped I would like the sports watch. And I do, but not the bracelet. I spoke with Lange chief executive Wilhelm Schmid just before the launch, and he summed up the Odysseus: “We have not changed our fine watchmaking. It’s typical Lange, but it took us a long time to find the face and find the design.” The watch – minus the bracelet – looks like a Lange, which means it’s serious looking, a bit plain, but obviously high quality from the way the small details catch the light. On the wrist the Odysseus sit...
Revolution
Fans of one of the world’s pioneering diving watches will have reason to join the queue straight away – the latest Blancpain Fifty is drop-dead gorgeous.
Time+Tide
Earlier this week, Felix took a closer look at a watch that has to be a frontrunner for nicest dress watch of the year, the blue dial Omega Trésor. While it’s certainly a good-looking watch, there are two other members of the Trésor family that might even beat it to the punch. The Omega Trésor has … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A closer look at the Omega Trésor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Watchcapes: Featuring the F. Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1.4-4 "Night Star" for Only Watch 2019 - with wallpaper sized images and details on the watch.
SJX Watches
The only independent watchmaker in Hungary, Aaron Becsei, or more properly Becsei Áron, has created a distinctive style for his eponymous brand, Bexei – ornate, Gothic engraving; a double-ellipse case; and top-class movement finishing. His latest creation, a custom and unique grande and petite sonnerie wristwatch named Vox Vinum, is all of the above, except in a more conventional round case. Created at the behest of an important, Asian collector of independent watchmaking, the grande sonnerie took more than a year to complete. It is the first, and so far only, striking watch ever produced by Bexei. The Vox Vinum The grand sonnerie A grande et petite sonnerie – French for “large and small strike” – is widely regarded as the pinnacle of mechanical watchmaking. Also known as a clockwatch, it strikes the hours and quarters en passant, as they pass. And it is also a minute repeater, being able to chime the time on demand. Modern day grande sonnerie wristwatches are exceedingly rare – the number of watchmakers having produced one can be counted on both hands. The most notable makers of grande sonnerie wristwatches are Patek Philippe with its Grandmaster Chime, F.P. Journe with the recently discontinued Sonnerie Souverain, and Greubel Forsey as well as Vacheron Constantin, both of which use the same base movement in their respective grande sonnerie wristwatches. But the pioneers in the field were Philippe Dufour in 1992, and followed shortly after by Gerald Gen...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Buy the reissue? Or Just go for the original? Damon breaks down the Rado Captain Cook Mk II while shedding light on the brands lackluster and misdirected modern marking campaigns.
SJX Watches
The third important vintage Rolex – in my opinion – at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction, after the ref. 4113 split-seconds chronograph and mint ref. 8171 “Padellone”, is the ref. 6062 “Stelline” triple calendar that once belonged to Gordon Bethune, the executive best known for turning around Continental Airlines during his decade-long tenure starting in 1994. The watch a sterling example of the ref. 6062 – and will sell for well over a million dollars – but it is also notable for what it says about the development of the vintage watch market. Now 78 and retired, though he pops up regularly on CNBC to comment on the airline industry, Mr Bethune accumulated his watch collection over two decades. He sold the bulk of it in 2012, but remains probably the only famous business executive known to have collected watches in a serious fashion (another is perhaps former Hollywood talent agent Michael Ovitz, though he more widely regarded as an important collector of contemporary art). Mr Bethune’s collection was inclined towards great, even some of the best, examples of important, uncommon and desirable watches, rather than extraordinarily or unique models. So he owned one of the best-preserved, all-original examples of the ref. 6062s “Stelline”, rather than say a well-worn ref. 6062 with a black, diamond-marker dial. It was a cold day in December… The Gordon Bethune Collection of Fifty Exceptional Vintage Wristwatches took place in December 2012 at Christi...
Quill & Pad
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and that is most certainly the case in the 2019 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève Artistic Crafts category. While not quite unanimous, our jury does have a clear majority favorite.
Hodinkee
Phillips smashes it out of the park with a killer collection of ready-to-buy vintage Swatch watches.
Deployant
We bring you the details and our thoughts on the new Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF, now available in white gold with a blue-grey dial.
Revolution
Phillips is presenting their Hong Kong Watch Auction 9 with the first evening session dedicated to watches coming directly from their original owners.
SJX Watches
Following the bestselling G-Shock 5000-series “Full Metal”, Casio recently unveiled another variant of the iconic DW-5600, but now capped with a steel bezel cover, the GM-5600. It’s essentially a budget version of the “Full Metal”, offering a similar look for less than half the price. Introduced in 1987, four years after the launch of the first ever G-Shock, the DW-5000, the DW-5600 retained the look and construction of the original, but with an improved electronic module and a dial that did away with the brick pattern found on the original. Since then, the DW-5600 has has been issued in an bewildering array of colours and styles, but the latest iteration marks the first time the model gets a steel cladding on the front. It is available in three iterations: stainless steel (GM-5600-1), black ion-plated steel with a black dial (GM-5600B-1), and black ion-plated steel with an military green, camo-pattern dial (GM-5600B-3). As with the standard DW-5600 (and all other G-Shocks), the new watch has a double case construction made up of an inner resin case covered in a steel outer case, preserving the signature shock resistance and 200m depth rating of the G-Shock, while keeping it lighter than the “Full Metal” model. The outer steel case features a bezel with a vertically brushed finish, nearly identical visually to the found on the steel “Full Metal”. Size-wise, the GM-5600 is a tad bigger than the standard resin DW-5600 at 49.6mm by 43.2mm on the front, ...
Quill & Pad
The Récital 23 is Bovet's very first watch with the writing slope-style case designed with women in mind. With its elegant curves and sloping case style, this watch is perfect for a more delicate sensibility. But don't take Joshua Munchow's word for it: see for yourself!
Hodinkee
As the El Primero turns 50, take a look back at the story of its birth and the man that protected its very existence.
Deployant
Following last week's topic on Tastebreakers, we take a look yet again at six watch recommendations consisting of watches that are often overlooked by many.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: It should come as no surprise that Hublot know their way around ceramic. I mean, seriously, just look at the vibrancy of this red. It really is magic. Read on for our review … The story in a second: It’s big. It’s red. It’s Hublot. Red is a colour with some pretty specific … ContinuedThe post The incREDible Hublot Big Bang Unico Red Magic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
First introduced in 1961, the Seiko Alpinist was a significant milestone in the brand’s history. It was the first ‘Sports Watch’ for the brand, with the intention of it becoming a reliable timepiece for Japanese mountain climbers. These men required a tough and rugged that could be used in the rough terrain.
Deployant
We take a look at the Loupe System macro attachment for smart phones, and compare it with a brandless macro attachment, and give you our thoughts.
Time+Tide
Hublot has just dropped the Big Bang MP-11 SAXEM, once again demonstrating why they are the vanguards of the horological industry when it comes to innovating new materials for wristwatches. The stunningly green case of the new Big Bang MP-11 is hewn from a material that has never been used before in a timepiece’s case … ContinuedThe post Going green with the Hublot Big Bang MP-11 SAXEM appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The place you go when the company IPOs, and a limited edition to mark the occasion.
Time+Tide
It will surprise precisely no one to learn that round watches are the most popular category. But, versatile as the circle is, the round watch can be a bit same-samey. That’s not an issue with this fancy pair of Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Dates, offered in some stylish new dial variations. Before we get … ContinuedThe post It’s a date! Glashütte Original drop two new takes on the Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Founded in Scotland five years ago by industrial designer Lewis Heath, Anordain is one of the most unusual “microbrands” as it managed to master – straight out of the gate – one of watchmaking’s most prized crafts: vitreous enamel, often known as grand feu enamel in Swiss watchmaking. As a result, the brand manages to offer some of the most affordable watches with fired enamel dials, mostly priced under US$1500. Following the success of the inaugural Model 1 last year, the brand has just unveiled the Model 2, a compact, hand-wound, two-hander with a modern, minimalist design. Most notably, two versions of the watch feature a fired, translucent enamel done over a hammered surface. Like all Anordain’s standard enamel dials, the new hammered, enamel dial is done in-house. Located in Glasgow’s East End, Anordain’s workshop includes its own three-person team of enamellers that can produce eight to nine dials a week, usually in bright, unusual colours such as pink or a translucent bottle green. Design nuances Inspired by classic field watches – the no-nonsense wristwatches made for armies in the first half of the 20th century – the Model 2 was designed entirely in-house, from the case to the typography and hands. And just like vintage field watches that are small by modern standards, the Model 2 measures a discreet 36mm in diameter and 11mm in height. Its balanced proportions are indeed reminiscent of field watches, albeit in a more refined and formal ma...
SJX Watches
Invented by pioneering independent watchmaker Vincent Calabrese in 1980 – whose specialty remains intriguing shaped movements – the Golden Bridge has become a Corum signature – a tiny, baguette-shaped movement suspended in watch cases of varying shapes and sizes. Despite being almost 40 years old, the Golden Bridge remains an impressive feat of movement construction, and one that is not as highly regarded as it should be. The latest iteration of the watch is the Golden Bridge Round 43 Art Deco, which installs the Golden Bridge movement in a conventional, round case, but frames it on both sides with sets of brass wires, evoking the cables of suspension bridges. Two versions are available: one with gilded wires and a yellow gold movement, the other with rhodium-plated wires and a matching movement. Mechanically the CO 113 movement is identical to that found in earlier versions. Taking its name literally, the movement has its bridges and main plate in solid 18k gold. It was born out of Mr Calabrese’s original design – which was delicate and finicky – having been reengineered about a decade ago by Laurent Besse, an independent watchmaker who formerly worked for Corum after his own workshop went bust. The case is a large 43mm and made of titanium coated in diamond-like carbon (DLC), giving it a glossy black finish. Its size means it loses the delicate elegance of the originals, which were all contained in narrow, rectangular cases, but conversely the round cas...
Time+Tide
In their upcoming auction, Phillips is focusing their attention on the finest examples of highly coveted double-signed dials. A double-signed dial is where a brand has allowed the name of the retailer that will sell the watch to appear on the dial, alongside the brand’s name. Retailers that have had the opportunity to showcase their … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: René Beyer on Beyer double-signed dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
IWC’s latest limited edition is a surprisingly small run – 80 pieces to mark the 80th anniversary of the flight of the giant Latécoère 521 flying boat Lieutenant de Vaisseau Paris from New York to Lac de Biscarrosse in Southwestern France. Starting on Bastille Day, July 14, in 1939, the flight was the first nonstop crossing of the North Atlantic by flying boat. A passenger on the 28-hour, 27-minute journey was French aviator Antoine de Saint Exupéry. And it happens that one of IWC’s most popular sub-collections of pilot’s watches watches is Le Petit Prince, named after the famous novel by de Saint Exupéry. So the Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Chronograph Edition “80 Years Flight to New York” is an offshoot of the Le Petit Prince collection, with a few tweaks. It retains the vaguely retro flavour, with Gothic-esque numerals and lozenge hands, but instead of the standard blue dial of Le Petit Prince, the anniversary watch has a brown metallic dial, matched with brown ceramic bezel. The edition is based on the Timezoner Chronograph, usually available only in the standard black and white livery of IWC’s basic Pilot’s Watches. It’s an unusual watch that combines both a flyback chronograph and IWC’s proprietary “timezoner” mechanism. Originally developed by the defunct watch brand Vogard, the timezoner mechanism has a rotating world time bezel linked to the second time zone, so turning the bezel moves the 24-hour hand in one-hour ste...
Time+Tide
It’s a question we never, ever get tired of asking. What sealed the deal on your watch? What was the straw that broke the camel’s wallet? The way the light melts across the domed box crystal? The price you got from that uncle with a gambling problem? The day you saw it on someone else … ContinuedThe post Want to have your watch story published on Time+Tide? We are open for submissions … appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A simple yet unusual chiming complication, the hourstriker has been a fixture in the Ulysse Nardin line-up for almost three decades, starting with the San Marco Jacquemart developed by Christophe Claret. The hour striker complication has been paired with various automatons over the years, including tigers, horses, oil pumpjacks, and a copulating couple. Now Ulysse Nardin has stripped away the automaton, streamlined the design, and reworked the acoustics – with help from French speaker specialist Devialet – resulting in the Hourstriker Phantom. It’s the brand’s sleekest and most contemporary hour striker to date, and according to Ulysse Nardin, the loudest chiming wristwatch in the world. High-end audio help Founded in 2007 by a trio of Frenchmen, who named the company after 18th century French engineer Guillaume Vialet, Devialet is most famous for its white, egg-shaped Phantom Premier speaker that is compact, powerful and fairly expensive. Most notably, one of its founders, designers Emmanuel Nardin, is a member of the Nardin family that once owned Ulysse Nardin. The Devialet Gold Phantom Opéra de Paris speaker Devialet’s contribution to the Hourstriker Phantom was to boost its sound, accomplished in two ways. The first element being the attachment of the gongs to the movement. In an ordinary striking watch, the gongs are fixed with screws. On the other hand, the Hourstriker Phantom has its gongs secured by “torsion arms”, presumably small springs. A...
Hodinkee
A new home for the storied brand and its history.
Hodinkee
The latest Ulysse Nardin hour striking watch: loud and proud.
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