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Recommended Reading: John Nagayama's '96' Is An Essential Guide To The Rarest Of Patek Philippe's Quintessential Calatravas Hodinkee
Patek Philippe s Quintessential Calatravas Aug 31, 2026

Recommended Reading: John Nagayama's '96' Is An Essential Guide To The Rarest Of Patek Philippe's Quintessential Calatravas

In this week's edition of our ongoing book review column, I thought it was a good time to highlight a reference that's been sitting on my shelf for a while but was sadly out of stock by the time it arrived at my place two years ago. Well, luckily for us, John Nagayama's masterful Patek Philippe tome, simply called "96," has been reprinted, and out of the 450 copies released for sale just a few weeks ago, there are still a couple left. John Nagayama, at his old office in Tokyo, Japan. John Nagayama, known as @johnbehalf on Instagram, is the undisputed king of the reference 96. That's saying something. The long-lived, miniature (by today's standards) time-only Patek Philippe has become the framework and measuring stick for basically every dress watch that's come since, and long-time collectors have never turned a blind eye to it. But recent interest, driven by Mike Nouveau over on TikTok in particular, and acceptance of a 30.5mm watch has put it back on the map. But Japan, where Nagayama is based, became the Mecca for small watches and 96 obsessives. Nagayama has probably forgotten more than nearly anyone will ever know about time-only Patek. And he doesn't forget hardly anything. If you browse his site, you'll see some super esoteric stuff. While writing this, his homepage featured one of the 10 known ref. 433, this one in platinum and rose, with an amazing three-color dial. His personal collection (from which he pulled four amazing watches for a past story we did in Japan)...

Hands-On With Longines Master Collection Chrono Moonphase: A Complicated Classic, Refined WatchAdvice
Longines Master Collection Chrono Moonphase Aug 28, 2026

Hands-On With Longines Master Collection Chrono Moonphase: A Complicated Classic, Refined

I’ve had the chance to take the newly redesigned Longines Master Collection Chrono Moonphase for review to see how the subtle refinements elevate this complicated favourite! What We Love Refined, less cluttered dial design Exceptional complications for the price Beautifully matched blue leather strap What We Don’t Limited 30m water resistance Substantial thickness for smaller wrists Busy display may not be to everyone’s liking. Overall Rating: 8.9 / 10 Value For Money: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 There are few watches that bring together Longines’ classical design language and mechanical expertise as completely as the Master Collection Chrono Moonphase. This is one of my favourite Longines models, and I have finally had the opportunity to review the latest evolution of one of the brand’s most iconic timepieces. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Watch Advice (@watchadvice) Longines first introduced the Master Collection in 2005 to showcase its traditional watchmaking expertise through an entirely mechanical collection. It was created as a meeting point between the brand’s classical elegance and its ability to produce increasingly complicated mechanical timepieces. This distinguished the Master Collection from Longines’ sportier models through its more traditional dial designs, decorative finishing, and mechanical complications. The 1911 Longines pocket watch serves as the inspiration behind the aesthetics of the Chr...

eBay Finds: Great Vintage Watches from Seiko, Hamilton, Zodiac, and More! Worn & Wound
Hamilton Zodiac Aug 28, 2026

eBay Finds: Great Vintage Watches from Seiko, Hamilton, Zodiac, and More!

eBay Finds is back! This bi-weekly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage CompuChron LED You gotta love a good vintage LED, especially when it comes with the box and papers! This example is a nice, chunky CompuChron in stainless steel. The space-age steel case is excellent with sharp edges and original mix of brushed and polished finishes. The LED screen looks nice and clear, and the printed CompuChron logo is crisp. The watch comes on the correct and original integrated steel bracelet with a signed buckle. Best of all it comes with the original box and instruction manual, which is always handy. The watch runs and all the LED segments light up. Really fun piece that’s in amazing condition.  View auction here Vintage Seiko Seikomatic  Here is a sweet vintage Seiko Seikomatic from 1966. Seller doesn’t state, but this should be a 38mm case size. The case looks unpolished with sharp edges on the cool, angular lugs. The classic Seiko silver dial is clean, with nice clear writing and applied steel baton markers. Steel dauphine hands and an unusual date at 3 o’clock with day at 6 o’clock complete the look. The small crown is recessed at 4 o’clock. The serial number on the caseback dates this one to January 1966. The automatic movement is clean and...

Introducing the Xeric x Worn & Wound Sector Limited Editions Worn & Wound
Anoma ly Aug 26, 2026

Introducing the Xeric x Worn & Wound Sector Limited Editions

When it comes to watches, “weird, wonderful, and complicated” rarely mix well with “value,” which makes Xeric such a fun anomaly of a brand. Not afraid of odd-shaped cases, wild colors, and unique ways of telling time, Xeric has forged a catalog unlike any other brand’s. You won’t find vintage divers or Calatrava-esque dress watches among its offerings, or much else that could be considered “on trend.” You will find, however, wandering hours, upside-down movements, jump hours, and retrograde displays, mostly under $2,000, with many under $1,000. The post Introducing the Xeric x Worn & Wound Sector Limited Editions appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Channel Your Inner Navy SEAL With The Doxa × Belmont Watches SUB 300 Beta “Frogger” Fratello
Doxa × Belmont Watches SUB Aug 25, 2026

Channel Your Inner Navy SEAL With The Doxa × Belmont Watches SUB 300 Beta “Frogger”

Doxa and Belmont Jewelers collaborated on this limited edition SUB 300 Beta, which they are calling “Frogger”. This is the kind of watches that make a suburban Gen-Zer — yours truly — feel way more badass than he should. Because this collaboration of 100 individually numbered pieces gets its name from the Navy frogmen and […] Visit Channel Your Inner Navy SEAL With The Doxa × Belmont Watches SUB 300 Beta “Frogger” to read the full article.

Longines Impressively Expands The Master Collection Fratello
Longines Impressively Expands Aug 25, 2026

Longines Impressively Expands The Master Collection

Within the Longines lineup, the Master collection focuses on the rich history of the brand’s craftsmanship and watchmaking elegance. Back in June, the time-and-date Master models got a complete overhaul. Longines now introduces a new dial variation of the Master 41, an updated version of the Master Chrono Moonphase, and the impressive Master Chrono Monopusher. […] Visit Longines Impressively Expands The Master Collection to read the full article.

Happenings: Hodinkee Happy Hour Returns To SoHo This Thursday Hodinkee
Aug 24, 2026

Happenings: Hodinkee Happy Hour Returns To SoHo This Thursday

Earlier this month, we had the pleasure of hosting our Hodinkee Happy Hour at One Vanderbilt. If you missed it, don't fret! We're excited to announce the next installment of Hodinkee Happy Hour, which will take place at the Watches of Switzerland store in SoHo, just a stone's throw from the Hodinkee office. Expect the same casual format as our Hodinkee Happy Hours, with great food, drinks, and watches. Space is limited, so be sure to RSVP using the link below to secure your spot. Our Editor-in-Chief, James Stacey, will be there, along with other members of the Hodinkee team. We'd love for you to join us, whether it's your first time or you've already attended several Hodinkee events. There will be plenty of food from Upside Pizza and beers from our friends at Grotta to go around. Date:Thursday, August 27, 2026, 4:30 - 6:30 PM Location:Watches of Switzerland, SoHo60 Greene StreetNew York, NY 10012 Click here to RSVP.

Recommended Reading: 'Universal People, Universal Dreams' Is A Timely, Heartfelt Telling Of One Man's Collecting Journey Into The Rarest Of The Rare Hodinkee
Grand Seiko Aug 24, 2026

Recommended Reading: 'Universal People, Universal Dreams' Is A Timely, Heartfelt Telling Of One Man's Collecting Journey Into The Rarest Of The Rare

Last week I kicked off a mini-series where I'm finally taking some great books off my shelf and sharing them with the world. We covered a brand-backed "Grand Seiko" book by ERG Media, which set a great tone. This week we're looking at another brand-focused tome, the much more recently released "Universal People, Universal Dreams," which documents the hyper-focused collection of one man. But it's more than a book about Universal Genève. I first met the author and publisher, Luca Mignini, a few years ago, though I'm not exactly sure where. Maybe at an auction in Geneva? At some point, he just turned into a fixture in my vintage watch sphere, a person who could turn up anywhere there was a vintage watch. At the famed antique fair in Parma, Italy? Sure. Luca Mignini and Max Bernardini He had a prototype Universal Genève Space Compax/Polerouter Sub dive watch made for the U.S. Navy, which I shared in my photo report from the fair. On that same trip, he just randomly showed up as I was looking at Patek 1518 dials with Max Bernardini (Uncle Max, to his close friends) at his shop right across the street from "The Last Supper" in Milan. That later encounter makes sense, as Bernardini (and his team, including Mauricio Gimenez, who is named as "The Trusted Advisor" in the book) was instrumental in curating the collection. Mignini frequently travels between his home in Rome and Milan, where he serves as a professor at Bocconi University.  During the COVID-19 pandemic, Mignini and B...

Audemars Piguet Brings Le Brassus to Singapore SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Brings Le Brassus Aug 24, 2026

Audemars Piguet Brings Le Brassus to Singapore

Next month the National Museum of Singapore’s Gallery Theatre will play host to Audemars Piguet’s Perspectives On Time exhibition. The pop-up event will explore 150 years of Audemars Piguet through four curated spaces, each focused on a different aspect of the brand’s history. Especially curated for Singapore, the exhibition is set to bring together both contemporary and archival pieces, including a range of historic Audemars Piguet wrist and pocket watches from the brand’s museum, many of which will be on display in the country for the first time ever. Four distinct spaces will be organised to highlight different aspects of Audemars Piguet’s technical prowess, including astronomical complications, open-worked movements, and chiming complications. Naturally, the exhibit opens with a look at the brand’s history from founding to present day, traced through a range of rare archival pieces and historic milestones. Open from 10:30am-6:00pm each day in 30-minute sessions, admission to the exhibition is free, though limited slots will be available so early registration is encouraged. The brand has thoughtfully set up a dedicated booking portal to simplify the registration process. Walk-ins will also be accommodated subject to availability. Perspectives On Time will be hosted from September 10-13 at The Gallery Theatre at the National Museum of Singapore, 93 Stamford Rd, Singapore 178897. Register online at audemarspiguet.com.  

Sunday thoughts: is Omega a Rolex rival, or is it really Tudor that Omega should be compared to? WristBuzz
Sunday thoughts: is Omega a Rolex rival, or is it really Tudor that Omega should be compared to? Aug 23, 2026

Sunday thoughts: is Omega a Rolex rival, or is it really Tudor that Omega should be compared to?

Every enthusiast has this debate on a Sunday morning. Omega and Rolex have shared a shelf for 60 years, but the market has moved. Is the fair comparison still Rolex, or is Tudor the one that actually shops in the same €4k to €10k drawer? Five reasons for each side.

Bespoke One-Of-A-Kind And Off-Catalog Watches: A Story As Old As Time Fratello
Aug 21, 2026

Bespoke One-Of-A-Kind And Off-Catalog Watches: A Story As Old As Time

If you don’t like what you see, ask the maker to make something just for you. That’s sort of the principle behind bespoke watches. And all the historical high-end watchmakers have plenty of experience with that because custom-made timepieces are exactly how the watchmaking industry started centuries ago. Creating one-of-a-kind timepieces for demanding customers is […] Visit Bespoke One-Of-A-Kind And Off-Catalog Watches: A Story As Old As Time to read the full article.

Hands-on - The Yellow Gold Minerva The Unveiled Chronograph Limited Edition 30 Monochrome
Minerva Aug 19, 2026

Hands-on - The Yellow Gold Minerva The Unveiled Chronograph Limited Edition 30

Minerva‘s Unveiled Chronograph series is an exercise in turning conventional watchmaking inside out. Instead of hiding the movement under the dial, which would require taking the watch off the wrist to admire its calibre through the display caseback, the manufacture reverses its architecture, making the chronograph mechanism and its distinctive hand-finished components the main attraction […]

Introducing - Henri Grandjean & Cie Unveils the Magician Atrivm Green Sapphire and Atrivm Red Sapphire Monochrome
Aug 19, 2026

Introducing - Henri Grandjean & Cie Unveils the Magician Atrivm Green Sapphire and Atrivm Red Sapphire

Henri Grandjean (1803-1879) was a master watchmaker from Le Locle, renowned for his precision marine chronometers and for his pioneering role in Swiss chronometry. The name was recently revived by entrepreneur and collector Sohail Aziz and positioned as an independent brand specialising in exquisite high-end contemporary haute horlogerie. Making an impressive debut, Henri Grandjean & […]

Introducing: Seiko x Tradman's Bonsai Presage Classic Series Hodinkee
Seiko x Tradman's Bonsai Presage Aug 18, 2026

Introducing: Seiko x Tradman's Bonsai Presage Classic Series

What We Know It may not always come as a surprise when Seiko releases a new collaboration, at least in the abstract. Still, it is always exciting to see just who Seiko has chosen to partner with, and what that partnership can turn into. This time, Seiko has paired itself with Tradman's Bonsai, a Japanese creative collective whose mission is to celebrate and continue exploring the traditional art of Japanese Bonsai through both the creation of Bonsai spaces and the pursuit of collaborations with brands in the street culture, fashion, and art worlds. The result here is the latest addition to Seiko's Presage line, Seiko's dressier alternative to other, more technical watch families likeProspex. It's also the line Seiko often uses to celebrate heritage Japanese aesthetics and artistry, making it a perfect canvas for Seiko to honor Bonsai, an art form that involves growing, cultivating, and shaping small-scale trees with rigorous dedication and precision. With this watch, Seiko has evoked Bonsai trees in several ways, most clearly with the introduction of a new dial color and texture. Inspired by the bark of aging pine trees, the new pattern gently spirals outward from the center of the dial and is paired with a deep green gradient treatment and a dual-curved sapphire crystal with an AR coating on the inside. A 38mm stainless steel case with a fluted bezel and yellow-gold-tone finish houses the dial and the watch's 6R51 movement, a time-only automatic from Seiko with a 72-hour ...

Hands-On: Frederique Constant Rebuilds Its Classic Worldtimer From The Ground Up Hodinkee
Frederique Constant Rebuilds Aug 17, 2026

Hands-On: Frederique Constant Rebuilds Its Classic Worldtimer From The Ground Up

I've always had a certain fascination with world timers—for one, it's a practical complication, but mostly because I love watching brands solve the problem of presenting a lot of information—text, numbers, data—and condensing it into a dial that actually works. When it works, it really works. So when I heard Frederique Constant was updating their Classic Worldtimer at Watches and Wonders this year, I was intrigued. The broader market is fascinated with world timers too. If the upper end is any indicator that world timers are trending, look at what the ref. 2523 "South America Map" Patek sold for a few months ago. Couple that with brands exploring different ways into the complication—our own Ben Clymer spent time in Geneva last fall and came back with lavish praise for a world timer from Andersen Genève, calling it the favorite thing he saw on the entire trip. But the big hiccup for me with world timers has always been simple: they're often quite expensive. World time, generally, was historically reserved for a brand's most exclusive references, in precious metals, running mid-five-figure to low-six-figure—only in recent years have brands like Nomos, Omega, Breitling, and IWC started offering steel versions, which dragged the entry point down to the mid-four-figure range. Frederique Constant has been chipping away at that problem for well over a decade now, and with the Classic Worldtimer Manufacture release at Watches and Wonders this year, I think they've crack...

Hands-on - The Summer Vibes Of The Nomos Club Campus Full Rose and All Olive Monochrome
Nomos Club Campus Full Rose Aug 17, 2026

Hands-on - The Summer Vibes Of The Nomos Club Campus Full Rose and All Olive

Do you know many brands that embrace colour as confidently as Nomos Glashütte? Watchmakers often introduce brightly coloured dials as limited seasonal releases, yet Nomos has made them part of its identity, particularly within the Club Campus collection. We have seen everything from Future Orange and Absolute Grey to Starlight and Night Sky, Nonstop Red […]

Bring a Loupe: An Alpina-Gruen Techni-Quadron, A Universal Genève "Eric Clapton," A Cartier "Bebe Guillotine," And More Hodinkee
Cartier Bebe Guillotine Aug 14, 2026

Bring a Loupe: An Alpina-Gruen Techni-Quadron, A Universal Genève "Eric Clapton," A Cartier "Bebe Guillotine," And More

You're halfway through August, Baller. August. The mind positively reels that yesterday saw the first pre-season NFL games, and soon enough even pope-themed hats and baseball games will be in the rearview, and we'll be pulling coats from closets (for those of us in the northern latitudes, anyway). Scorekeeping from last week—the Zodiac Poor Man's Heuer sells tomorrow, the Seiko 7018 passed, and the JLC Master Calendar Meteorite is still available, as is the Patek 5000R. For those who want to know more about the 5000, I strongly encourage you to read this phenomenal article by Edouard Henn on Collectability about the model, which I would have linked last week had I been bright enough to know it existed. Strays Photo courtesy of Interencheres. This Tissot Antimagnetique is worth a serious look, even though it's missing its second hand. Certainly, we'll all be missing plenty of original parts when we're as old as the watch (also, as cool as the model is, it's not so precious that its value would be dinged too much by sourcing a close-enough replacement). If that Harwood from last week's strays got your attention, here's another lovely one. Cartier Pashas have never quickened my pulse, but man oh man, this one's got its hooks in me. Solid gold Polerouter? Solid gold Polerouter. Speaking of gold, this Gubelin is both a) nothing all that special and b) impossibly beautiful, and if those gold offerings still aren't enough for you, fine, here's a Patek 3800/1 from 1995 that come...

[Video] Extreme Watchmaking Revealed: The Formex Aria And How It’s Made Fratello
Formex Aria Aug 14, 2026

[Video] Extreme Watchmaking Revealed: The Formex Aria And How It’s Made

Formex may be a relatively young name in Swiss watchmaking, but the brand has already made a name for itself thanks to its unique approach. Founded in 1999 and based in Biel, Formex has built its identity around combining mechanical watchmaking with engineering-led solutions. Its watches are known for features such as the patented Case […] Visit [Video] Extreme Watchmaking Revealed: The Formex Aria And How It’s Made to read the full article.

Hands On: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 2TV SJX Watches
Voutilainen demonstrate demand Aug 14, 2026

Hands On: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 2TV

Now beginning its second decade under the leadership of Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Ferdinand Berthoud (FB) has introduced the Chronomètre FB 2TV.1, the first model in the new Mesure du Temps 1787 collection. The FB 2TV represents an evolution of the brand’s long-running chain-and-fusee architecture, adding zero-reset seconds and a flying tourbillon, and inverting the calibre to exhibit its key functional elements on the dial side. Initial thoughts It’s hard to believe that it has been ten years since the debut of Ferdinand Berthoud as a contemporary brand. It was clear from the outset that FB had big ambitions, launching its first model with a chain and fusee mechanism. Since then, FB has maintained admirably high standards for itself, and while not all of the designs appeal to me, the obvious effort that goes into every watch — each FB 2TV receives more than 300 hours of decoration — has won the brand a durable position near the top of the industry. Now beginning its second decade, FB has released the first watch in a new collection that portends a more mechanically expressive style, with features like the chain and fusee inverted to the dial side. This approach isn’t original, but the success of other ‘inverted’ movements from independents like Kari Voutilainen demonstrate demand for the format. Quirky designs Ferdinand Berthoud, an 18th-century pioneer of the spring detent escapement among other breakthroughs, approached watchmaking fr...

Introducing - Round Two of the Albishorn Marinagraph Classic and Classic Fumé Monochrome
Albishorn Marinagraph Classic Aug 13, 2026

Introducing - Round Two of the Albishorn Marinagraph Classic and Classic Fumé

Albishorn, an independent Swiss brand founded in 2024 by Sébastien Chaulmontet, focuses on “imaginary vintage” watches, “what if” models that are visually grounded in the past – but which never existed. A year after its debut, Albishorn released the Marinagraph, a robust skin diver with a patented 10-minute regatta countdown function that “could have” been […]

Introducing: The Albishorn Marinagraph Classic Hodinkee
Massena Lab Aug 13, 2026

Introducing: The Albishorn Marinagraph Classic

What We Know Swiss brand Albishorn, carving out a niche with "imaginary vintage" designs, just released a simplified version of its regatta chronograph with the Marinagraph Classic. I first covered this complication in my hands-on review two years ago with the Albishorn Maxigraph, the brand's debut model and a collaboration with Massena LAB. Since then, the regatta chronograph has lived on under Albishorn's "Water" collection as the Marinagraph, combining the complication with a tide bezel. Today's Marinagraph Classic isn't all that different from the Marinagraph Classic Racing. Visually, the biggest difference is the swap from that colorful aluminum insert tide bezel to a large bidirectional sapphire bezel with more traditional, lumed markings. And yes, there are new dials too. While the sunray-brushed black dial remains, the new dial comes in the form of a white fumé color, with what could have been misconstrued as a shadow in the brand photography actually a subtle dark fade around the edges of the white dial. The black dial sports contrasting silver hands and markers, while the ones on the white fumé dial offer a stark black contrast. On both dials, the ten-minute retrograde regatta countdown scale at 7 o'clock is colored in blue and red, while the chronograph and regatta seconds hands are matched on each dial in either red for the black dial or blue for the white. My favorite feature since the first Maxigraph has been the aperture at 3 o'clock, serving as a running ...

Seiko’s Latest Presage is a Handsome Surprise SJX Watches
Breguet style numerals Aug 13, 2026

Seiko’s Latest Presage is a Handsome Surprise

The Presage is Seiko’s line of affordable dress watches that boasts impressive diversity, but there can be too much of a good thing; sometimes it’s difficult to distinguish one Presage model from another. The fresh-off-the-press Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship” Enamel (HCC005) and Urushi (HCC006) are a pair of appealing watches, especially the striking HCC006 with its black and gold livery, which might be one of the best looking Presage watches ever. The HCC005 in enamel Initial thoughts The HCC006 caught my eye as soon as I saw it; the high-contrast colours set it apart from all other Presage models. It’s a strong proposition for anyone looking for an affordable dress watch that isn’t in the typical, conservative pale colours. Moreover, the Breguet-style numerals in gold powder lacquer add a degree of refinement rarely found in watches at this price. The only downside of the HCC006 is the gold plated case. Though it adds to the look, I generally dislike plated cases since they feel inexpensive. That said, given the accessible price, it’s forgivable. The HCC005 with an enamel dial is similarly good value, but less interesting visually as it’s similar to past Presage models. It is, however, a good, low-key alternative to the black and gold of the HCC006. The HCC006 with an urushi dial Artisanal craft for less The new pair stick to the familiar template of the Presage Craftsmanship series – making traditional artisanal crafts affordable. As is conven...