Hodinkee
Business News: Swiss Watch CEOs Expect To Make Fewer Watches This Year As Economic Instability Roils Consumer Confidence
Brands from Parmigiani to Ulysse Nardin, Hermès, and Oris see few reasons to raise volumes.
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Hodinkee
Brands from Parmigiani to Ulysse Nardin, Hermès, and Oris see few reasons to raise volumes.
Time+Tide
Nothing says vintage like the warm flash of pink in the dials of yesteryear, but here are some great modern salmon dials worth considering.The post The 9 best salmon dial watches for collectors with delicious taste appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko’s flagship mechanical chronograph has been reimagined as the Sports Collection Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009. Executed in the brand’s proprietary “Brilliant Hard Titanium”, the oversized, facetted case is inspired by the paw of a lion, the historical emblem of Grand Seiko. This is the first time the Tentagraph movement is being combined with the Tokyo Lion case, setting it apart from the original model that was in the classic Grand Seiko Evolution 9 design. Initial thoughts While the original Tentagraph was conventional in style, the Tokyo Lion edition is big and bold. The watch has presence on the wrist. The case is large at 43 mm wide and almost 16 mm high, with its many facetted surfaces catching the light nicely. While the concept of a lion-inspired case might sound gimmicky, the new Tentagraph has its own appeal. The size and style makes this less of a low-key everyday watch than the first Tentagraph, but definitely more striking and original. Even though the Tokyo Lion case is arguably an acquired taste, I like this more than the original. At US$16,400, the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph is one of Grand Seiko’s priciest models in non-precious metal. But it is a flagship watch with a latest-generation movement, the cal. 9SC5, which incorporates the proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement and a free-sprung balance. The only shortcoming of the watch is the modular construction of the movement. Ten beats per second While the Tokyo Lion case design has been emplo...
Worn & Wound
That’s right-Windup Watch Fair is heading back to the Bay Area, and we couldn’t be more excited. From Friday, May 2nd to Sunday, May 4th, 2025, the Gateway Pavilion at the Fort Mason Center is the place to be for watch lovers, collectors, and anyone who just appreciates great design and craftsmanship. Windup Watch Fair San Francisco Friday, May 2 – Sunday, May 4, 2024 Gateway Pavilion at Fort Mason Center for Arts & Culture San Francisco, CA Free and open to the public. If you’ve never been to Windup before, here’s the scoop: it’s a free, three-day event created by Worn & Wound to bring together the watch community. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or just getting into the hobby, this is your chance to see amazing timepieces up close, chat with the people who make them, and connect with fellow enthusiasts-all in a fun, laid-back atmosphere. Not to mention, Windup SF is easily held at one of our most iconic venues: Pier 2 in San Francisco Bay with unforgettable views of both Alcatraz and The Golden Gate Bridge. This year, we’re stoked to have an incredible lineup of lead sponsors, including anOrdain, Christopher Ward, Fortis, Frederique Constant, and Oris. These brands are bringing their A-game with some seriously cool watches, and you’ll get the chance to check them out firsthand. Expect a killer mix of independent and well-known brands, hands-on experiences, and the opportunity to buy watches directly from the people who craft them. Plus, there...
Hodinkee
New size, new Master Chronometer spec, and good to 1000 meters.
Time+Tide
Dancing away from the bridge and to a nearby guinguette, the lovers now hold hands.The post The Bal des Amoureux is the next chapter in Van Cleef & Arpels’ love story appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
An idea from the 90s is back and we talk to the designer about what it took to close the loop.
Time+Tide
All that you need, and nothing you don't.The post The FLX004 is the most minimalist take on a skin diver by Fleux yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
With 1,000 hours/41 days of power reserve, the Haute-Rive Honoris I is impressive yet doesn’t set any records, however, it outshines the competition because it's so wearable.
Fratello
The Cartier Santos medium represents, to me, some of the best the brand has to offer. Recently, I spent some quality time with the Santos. Here are my thoughts. Cartier is a watch brand that represents many things to many people. Like Rolex, it has developed a little baggage simply because it has been so […] Visit Is The Cartier Santos Medium An Unexpected Rolex Oyster Perpetual Killer? to read the full article.
A Week in Watches Episode 101 takes us inside Windup Watch Fair Dallas. We look at several new releases first on display at the show, including the Fortis Novonaut titanium, Christopher Ward Sapphire Edge, Formex Ceramica, Paulin Modul Zapat, and Horage Deca Flux. We also check out a few fabulous booth displays. The next Windup Watch Fair is in San Francisco from May 2nd to 4th. For more info, visit Windupwatchfair.com. We hope to see you there. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 101 – Windup Watch Fair appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Fratello
Another historic French watch brand has been revived, and this time, it’s in a way we’ve never seen. Chronofixe, initially founded in the 1850s, became a well-known altimeter and Type 20 chronograph maker in the 1960s. After that, though, the brand went quiet. A virtually unknown Chronofixe watch, model Flight 1952, already surfaced a few […] Visit Hands-On With The Chronofixe × Seconde/Seconde/ Asterix Watch to read the full article.
Deployant
The Saturday files. We returned to PalExpo, and covered two additional brands which we came back to do a bit more material.
Fratello
The King Seiko 45KS is a lesson in finding value in vintage. Unlike its modern counterparts, this King Seiko offers a fiercely large amount of watch for the money. Depending on its condition, the 45KS can be found on the secondary market for €900–1,500. Modern Seiko has a problem. It’s not rival brands, such as […] Visit Value In Vintage With The King Seiko 45KS to read the full article.
Monochrome
This year at Watches and Wonders 2025, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s emblematic Reverso, a timeless timepiece dating back to 1931 – as we explained in this in-depth article – will have its moment. Indeed, the brand is focusing entirely on its icon, and with some handsome new releases. In 2023, the slimmer pink gold Reverso Tribute Monoface Small […]
Time+Tide
As hard as ceramic, as durable as metal, and a first in watchmaking.The post The innovative Tonda PF Chrono Ultra-Cermet is a dark take on Parmigiani Fleurier minimalism appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
If your favorite cologne is Bleu de Chanel, look no further. Chanel dresses the J12 Bleu in matte blue ceramic this year to celebrate the watch’s birthday. With 2025 marking a quarter century since the first J12 in black ceramic (and 22 years since the first white ceramic version), it’s time for a new color. […] Visit Chanel Launches The J12 Bleu Collection In Matte Blue Ceramic to read the full article.
Hodinkee
US President vows 31% tariffs on imported goods from Switzerland in 'Liberation Day' speech that would sideswipe Swiss watch sector.
Hodinkee
Watch CEOs react to news of potentially devastating US tariffs on Swiss watches.
Fratello
The Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication is a pièce unique that showcases its maker’s horological muscle. The world’s most complicated wristwatch brings to the fore several groundbreaking features. Let’s take a look. The Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Vacheron Constantin is a watchmaker that needs no introduction. One of the “Holy Trinity” […] Visit Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
It’s well understood at this point that stone dials are experiencing a renaissance in all corners of the watch market. In fact, it might almost be kind of boring to point this out as we continue to see new spins on these dials released on an almost weekly basis. So it would be tempting to say that H. Moser is jumping on the stone dial bandwagon with their new Pop collection, the centerpiece of their Watches & Wonders 2025 strategy. But I don’t think that’s quite fair. Moser, for their part, has been ahead of the curve on stone dials. They’ve released a handful of extremely limited watches with dials crafted from jade, falcon’s eye, and other stones in recent years. And with the Pop collection watches, they’ve done something genuinely creative, combining multiple stones in each dial in unexpected ways across three different models. The Pop collection exists in the Endeavour line, and makes use of all three watches on the platform: the Endeavour Small Seconds, Endeavour Tourbillon, and Endeavour Minute Repeater Tourbillon Concept. There are six groups of three watches, each making use of a combination of two stones. The stone pairings are Burmese jade and pink opal, lapis lazuli and lemon chrysoprase, and turquoise and coral. Each pairing is executed in two ways, with one stone being dominant in each. So, for example, there’s a Small Seconds model with Burmese jade in the main dial and pink opal in the sub seconds, and another with the opposite. For the tourb...
Deployant
Here are our highlights from Gerald Charles. We pick the GC39 25th Anniversary Edition with Jump Hour complication. Live from WWG25: highlights from Gerald Charles new releases GC39 25th Anniversary Edition with Jump Hour We will have a full hands-review of this piece, which looks absolutely stunning. Titanium case with a high polished finishing. TheRead More
Deployant
Next up, one of our favourite brands: Vacheron Constantin. VC celebrates 270 years as a maison. Here is a selection of our top few.
Monochrome
A couple of years ago, IWC introduced a Big Pilot’s watch with a device developed by the brand’s Experimental Engineering Division to protect the movement from extreme shocks. Not any only shock, mind you, but acceleration forces in excess of 30,000Gs (akin to the speed of a battleship shell) that no pilot could survive. Today’s […]
Deployant
We covered the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Grande Complication. Here we provide you with our hands-on with the other key watch and our impressions.
Monochrome
Roger Dubuis celebrates its 30th anniversary this year, a milestone that calls for a look back at its remarkable journey. While the brand’s history may not be long, it is undeniably rich and eventful. Today, however, the focus is on the latest revelation at Watches and Wonders Geneva: the Excalibur Grande Complication. This new timepiece […]
Time+Tide
A handsome callback to Alpina's heritage department and the 1960s.The post Alpina turns back the clock with its retro-inspired Heritage Tropic-Proof Handwinding appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A major leap forward in movement technology, featuring a new indirect impulse escapement and high frequency movement that confirms the Crown's industrial manufacturing prowess.
SJX Watches
Rolex has launched its first-ever ceramic dial with the GMT-Master II ref. 126729 VTNR. Left-handed like the “Sprite” of 2022, the new GMT-Master II is available only in 18k white gold – unsurprising since Rolex typically rolls out new innovations or features in precious metals. Dial aside, the rest is classic GMT-Master II. The movement is the latest-generation cal. 3285, while the bezel insert is in the same material as the dial, Cerachrom, Rolex speak for ceramic. Initial thoughts Unlike the game-changing Land Dweller, the new GMT-Master II is typical Rolex in being an incremental improvement over past models. Ceramic dials have been present in watchmaking for several years now, though this is a first for Rolex. Over time, ceramic dials will probably filter downwards into more affordable models as is the norm at the brand. Besides being a perfect match for the green half of the bezel, the ceramic dial is presumably more robustness than conventional lacquered dial, particularly in terms of scratch resistance and colour fastness (over decades or even centuries). Even though it’s not majorly novel, the ref. 126729 VTNR is a good looking watch and, in the usual Rolex fashion, is priced reasonably for what it is (though not cheaply). But it will also be a major hit, which makes availability scarce for some time to come. Two time zones One of the iconic travel watches, the GMT-Master II does a simple job very well. It can indicate up to three time zones with its combi...
Worn & Wound
Well, Tudor did the thing. And by “did the thing,” I mean that Tudor finally made the watch we all knew was coming, but maybe had started to doubt would ever arrive. But now the long wait is over, and the Black Bay Pro with Opaline white dial is here - and the new watch is everything people have been asking for and more, literally (but we’ll get to that in a minute). For as popular as the Black Bay Pro has been for Tudor, it didn’t take long after its launch in 2022 to notice a curious refrain of voices asking - nay, demanding - that Tudor bring a white dial in the style of the ‘Polar’ Explorer II to what is probably the outdoorsiest entry in the Black Bay family. Renders abounded, and a Polar BB Pro has been a fixture of prediction pieces for the last three years. Now, after a long wait, the watch so many asked for is here, and Tudor nailed it, not that there won’t be complaints. But first the good stuff. The dial here is awesome. The Opaline white dial (not Polar) looks - unsurprisingly - great against the all-steel look of the BB Pro, and the yellow GMT hand continues to please, albeit despite sacrificing some of the contrast that defined the original release. Thankfully, any contrast lost is more than made up for elsewhere, most especially thanks to the black surrounds on the hands and markers. The markers here are the same three-dimensional ceramic lume plots as on the black model, but here they forfeit the off-white look of the original BB Pro...
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