Hodinkee
Business News: Bremont Names Industry Vet Davide Cerrato As New CEO
The designer of Tudor's Black Bay brings a career of industry experience to the growing British brand.
Results for AHCI (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants)
3,201 articles · 300 videos found · page 11 of 117
Hodinkee
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Cult-Hit MIH Watch Is Back, Now As The Mechanik2
The next generation of the enthusiast-favorite annual calendar chronograph is reintroduced by one of its original designers.
Worn & Wound
Panerai Introduces their First Annual Calendar as Part of the Radiomir Collection
Among the new releases from Panerai at this year’s Watches & Wonders, we find what amounts to a first from the brand: a pair of annual calendars. While Panerai has dabbled in perpetual calendars, the annual calendar compilation is a new venture. This has always felt like an under-appreciated complication to me in an environment where perpetual calendars tend to get all the plaudits. For the relatively minor inconvenience of having to make a manual adjustment to the calendar on the first day of March, you get a calendar complication that’s very nearly “set it and forget it” at what often amounts to a significant discount over comparable perpetuals. While these new Panerais aren’t exactly rubbing up against the value end of the spectrum (they are both well into the five figures, with cases in precious metals), they do represent something genuinely new in the Panerai catalog, which is always going to be of interest to the brand’s dedicated base of collectors. The new annual calendars are both found in the Radiomir collection, which is Panerai’s sleeker case design (compared to the Luminor) with vintage style wire lugs and a squared off cushion case shape. Gold and platinum options are available (Panerai refers to their alloys as “Goldtech” and “Platinumtech”) and the cases measure 45mm in diameter. Panerai enthusiasts and collectors will tell you that a 45mm Radiomir case wears quite a bit smaller than the numbers would indicate, because thanks to the ...
Worn & Wound
Norqain’s Latest Wild One Celebrates the Brand’s Ties to the Music World and the Town of Zermatt
Sometimes a brand will launch a new watch line to intense fanfare, and then seem to forget about it, letting it twist in the proverbial wind while diligently shoring up other more proven collections. It’s a big gamble to launch a new watch collection, and timing follow ups after a big introduction is an inexact science at best. Norqain, with the launch of the Wild One last fall, has taken an aggressive approach to getting the word about their new high end sports watch, with quick follow ups that expand the palate of what the Wild One can be, and rapidly familiarize the watch community with the new platform. The latest Wild One has a distinct aesthetic impact, and also serves to highlight a new Norqain partnership, all based around a location that is of genuine importance to the brand. The Wild One Zermatt Unplugged Special Edition celebrates Norqain’s involvement in the Zermatt Unplugged music festival, which occurs annually in the picturesque Swiss ski village at the base of the Matterhorn. Zermatt is also the location of Norqain’s flagship boutique, and as a center of outdoor sport it falls right in line with the brand’s bent towards adventure. To bolster their ties to the music festival, Norqain is offering a limited number of the new watches as part of a package that includes a two night stay in Zermatt during the festival along with a VIP ticket and a day of skiing with Olympic medalists Tina Weirather and Ramon Zenhäusern, who are also Norqain ambassadors....
Quill & Pad
Rick Hale: Wooden Clocks Designed And Built As If By John Harrison Except Today And In The USA (Beautiful Photos + Videos) – Reprise
Clockmakers rarely get the credit they deserve, and Elizabeth Doerr believes that Rick Hale is deserving of at least a few minutes of your attention because this young autodidact clockmaker is doing something unique: handmaking self-designed clocks out of wood according to some of John Harrison’s principles.
Video
Is this the Best Affordable Automatic True GMT? Nodus Contrail II Traveler GMT as Good as it gets?
Quill & Pad
In Praise Of Clocks As Both A Precision Instrument And A Roommate: Highlighting Naeschke Clocks From Germany
Clocks come in all shapes and sizes: table clocks, wall clocks, desk clocks, pendulum clocks, longcase clocks, and marine chronometers. Here Thomas Brechtel makes the case for why you should consider a clock and highlights the work of Naesche clocks.
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions In The Challenge Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Our Panel Is Nearly Unanimous For A Mad Watch
Watches under 3,500 Swiss francs . . . now it gets interesting. And the competition gets even fiercer. This is the first horological category in which every one of the finalists deserves a place here, and any of them could win. So what did our peanut gallery pick?
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions In The Men’s Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Our Panel Is Split In Two
The Men’s is one of the more contentious GPHG categories every year because it is filled with amazing watches that may or may not have much in common but do have distinctive aesthetics. Since that is very subjective, our panel is reminded that the category is essentially asking which watch is the most versatile, wearable, and appeals to the broadest demographic. And, yet, our peanut gallery is divided practically down the middle!
Hodinkee
Introducing: MB&F; Has The Coolest Regulating Organ At Geneva Watch Days – And They Want To Show It Off
The LM Split Escapement EVO is how MB&F; tackles a "simple and sporty" design brief.
SJX Watches
English Independents Team Up for the “Fears Garrick”
A pair of watchmakers with English roots, Fears and Garrick have banded together to create a wristwatch that bears the aesthetic of the former while relying on the mechanics of the latter, the Fears Garrick. Founded in 1846 but having gone out of business during the Quartz Crisis, Fears is an English brand that was revived in 2016 by a descendant of its founder. Though it was not in continuous operation, Fears is now one of the oldest, family-owned English watch brands. Its modern-day offerings are all about clean, simple designs inspired by watches from its past catalogue, which are sometimes paired with period-correct, vintage movements. Garrick, on the other hand, was founded in 2014. Sitting in a higher price point than the typical Fears, Garrick’s offerings are constructed with the help of Swiss specialists, including Andreas Strehler, and dressed up with traditional decoration such as engine turning. David Brailsford of Garrick (left), and Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the great-great-great-grandson of Fears’ founder Initial thoughts The Fears Garrick is essentially a Garrick S1, the brand’s most impressive offering to date, but redesigned to give it a simpler aesthetic. Though intriguing, the open dial of the S1 has been done away with and the result is minimalist but appealing. I actually prefer the look of the Fears Garrick over the S1. But the Fears Garrick does bring to mind the IWC Portugieser, which is a good thing. For anyone who found the movement of ...
Video
Why are Richard Mille so Expensive When this Brand Can Make Watches Just As Cool for Under $400?
SJX Watches
Auction Watch: Seven Days of Cartier on Loupe This
Online-only watch auctioneer Loupe This has just announced a week of Cartier watches, with two watches being listed daily from April 25 to 29. The lineup is headlined by an original Crash made by Cartier London in 1969 that comes direct from the original owner no less. It has an appropriate hefty estimate of US$500,000-800,000. London Crash Some of the other highlights in the sale include a trio of white-metal Tanks, including a Tank Asymetrique in platinum, one of a hundred made in 1996. Estimated at US$30,000-50,000, it’s smaller than the recent Prive Tank Asymetrique, with dimensions comparable to the classic Tank LC, which is the next watch. Tank Asymétrique This is a rare variant of an otherwise common watch. Produced for several decades in a range of iterations, the Tank Louis Cartier, or “LC”, is commonly found in yellow gold, but less often in white gold, and rarely with a period-correct bracelet. Dating to the 1970s, this has an estimate of US$20,000-30,000. Tank LC Another Tank from the 1970s is this Tank Cintree “Jumbo”, also in white gold and once again with a matching gold bracelet. This is the largest size of arguably the most desirable Tank model, but made slightly more affordable by the fact that it was made in the 1970s instead of the first decades of the 20th century. The estimate is US$50,000-80,000. Tank Cintree The first pair go live on Monday, April 25, Los Angeles time (GMT-7), which will be April 26 for most of the world. You can see them...
Deployant
Seiko & Zero Halliburton: a new collaboration as an extension to the Presage Sharp Edged Series
The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series collection is extended with the introduction of three new watches designed in collaboration with Zero Halliburton.
Quill & Pad
Bollinger B13 Champagne: Not So Much ‘No Time To Die’ As ‘A Great Wine To Drink’
Ken Gargett takes a look at the new Bollinger Blanc de Noirs one-off, the B13 from the (unusual) 2013 vintage. And decides that this is no shrinking violet and that no one is going to taste this and start thinking how delicate, how elegant. It is a big, bold, full-of-flavor champagne.
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions In The Men’s Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), Again Close But Not Quite Unanimous In Our Pick For Winner
It might be hard to find six more diverse pieces! Three shaped watches, two with visible movement parts, one gimmicky “troll” watch, one Japanese timepiece, one by a fashion brand turned serious watchmaker, and one designed by one of the best watch designers of all time. Whew, this is gonna be tough!
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces the Spring Drive 5 Days Caliber 9RA2
Having introduced a new design language along with the all-new, automatic 9SA5 last year, Grand Seiko is now doing the same for the Spring Drive. The watchmaker has debuted a pair of Heritage Collection Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Editions, the “Minamo” SLGA007 in steel and the “Tree Rings” SLGA008 in rose gold. Both are powered by the 9RA2 that’s part of the family of latest-generation Spring Drive movements first seen last year in the Grand Seiko Diver 600 m SLGA001. Just 5 mm high, the slimness of the 9RA5 means the pair of new models are the thinnest Grand Seiko Spring Drive watches to date. Initial thoughts The new models are essentially Spring Drive versions of the self-winding Heritage models launched last year (including an ultra-luxe platinum version and the more recent “White Birch”). That’s a good thing for two reasons. One is the intrinsic appeal of the design, which is vintage inspired and appealing, packaged in a case that’s a good size and easily wearable. And the other is the increased consistency in styling between Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive and automatic models, doing away with the confusing distinction between movements and designs. The “Minamo” SLGA007 in steel But that’s also the downside for the buyers of the limited-edition models (either these or the automatics), since the design has been replicated as a standard-production watch with the automatic movement, and the same will surely be done for the new 9RA2 Spring Dr...
Video
I Wore The Rolex GMT-Master II For 7 Days - My Honest Thoughts!
Quill & Pad
Tim Mosso And Elizabeth Doerr Discuss Their Favorite New Watches Of 2021, Independents, And Alain Silberstein On ‘Talking Time With Tim’ Podcast
Tim Mosso of YouTube and Watchbox fame recently hosted Elizabeth Doerr again on his podcast, “Talking Time With Tim” (episode 21). They discuss some of their favorite new watch releases so far in 2021, the democratization of independent watch brands and their products, and the brilliance of one their mutually favorite designers, Alain Silberstein. Give it a listen!
SJX Watches
Yema Ties Up with French Navy for Dive Watches
Established in 1948, Yema was once a French watchmaking giant, having equipped the French Air Force and the first French astronaut, Jean-Loup Chrétien. It entered a long decline in the aftermath of the Quartz Crisis, but was revived under its current French owners who took over in 2009. Now Yema is once again making tool watches for professionals in a tie up with the French Navy, or Marine Nationale. A collection of dive watches “jointly designed with French Navy personnel for marine professionals”, the Navygraf X Marine Nationale is led by a time-only, automatic dive watch, as well as a variant with a GMT function. It also includes a less expensive quartz model and a ladies version, though they will not be covered here. The Navygraf Marine Nationale Automatic (left), and GMT Initial thoughts Along with fellow French brand Baltic, Yema is one of my favourite brands at the US$1,000 price point. Its watches are well designed and executed for the price, often offering strong value. Given Yema’s historical relationship with the French military – the brand supplied watches to French air force helicopter pilots in the 1970s – Yema has legitimacy in military watches, and its collaboration with the navy makes sense. The white and blue combination – a nautical palette modelled on the emblem of the French Navy – is familiar but stands out on the wrist, being immediately reminiscent of the oceans. The maritime theme of the symmetrical and legible dial is reinforc...
Quill & Pad
IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “IWC Racing”: Haute Horlogerie Contrasts
The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon “IWC Racing” edition piques Joshua Munchow's interest thanks to its connection between time, flight, and mechanics. This latest iteration of the Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon is new for 2021 and provides an extremely attractive proposition for the historically minded pilot’s watch fan. Here Joshua explains why.
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions For The Aiguille d’Or (Grand Prize) Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): And We Think It’s Down To Two Watches (Or Possibly Three)
The GPHG Aiguille d’Or rewards the best of the best. Which watch will be watch of the year? Our panelists think that there are three contenders, with two in particular most likely to take the prize. Which watch do you think deserves the accolade for best watch of 2020?
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions In The Divers Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): We Have An Unexpected Favorite
The GPHG Diver's category contains watches linked to the field of diving, whose functions, materials, and design are suited to this activity. Diver's watches are fairly straightforward and the most successful ones tend look very much alike. However most of our panelists selected a winner from the outfield that looked very different to the norm.
Video
Fratello Talks: Geneva Watch Days 2024 — Wishes And Predictions
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions In The Chronometry Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Our Panel Is United, But Not Unanimous
In the GPHG Chronometry category, we find mechanical watches that contain at least one tourbillon, and/or a special escapement, and/or another development improving precision timekeeping. What we don't find, though, is much hard data regarding precision like timing test results or in most cases even a second hand. Precision watches without a second hand? Despite that, our panel predicts a clear winner.
Quill & Pad
New Bulgari Aluminium Watches For 2020: The Past As A Roadmap To The Future
The two new Bulgari Aluminium models look a lot like their predecessors, which makes you realize how timeless the design is. They don't even look retro, highlighting the timeless quality of the original design. And the good news is that they are relatively affordable compared to other watches in Bulgari's collection. What else do these watches have going for them?
Revolution
URWERK at Geneva Watch Days 2020
Martin Frei, URWERK chief designer and co-founder walks us through all of the brand’s novelties in the year 2020.
Quill & Pad
‘Arm’s Length Architecture’: Building Blocks To Watchmaking As Exemplified By Some Of Today’s Wristwatches Including Urwerk, Nomos, Mido And Girard-Perregaux – Reprise
SIHH 2019 provided an instructive example to Tim Mosso of architecture’s low-key role in watch design relative to well-worn tropes. For him it was the third year in a row that parts of Geneva’s Palexpo felt like a Southern California cars-and-coffee event. But there are a few watch brands that do architecture well, and Tim takes a closer look at some of them here.
Revolution
The Rolex Bling Thing - Daytona Days
Ross Povey - in collaboration with Pucci Papaleo - talks us through the early developments in bejeweled sports models and decodes the racier Daytonas.
Video