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Review: The New Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph Ref. 5370R-001
Patek Phillipe unveils its most charismatic split-seconds chronograph yet, the Ref. 5370R-001 with a two-tone enamel dial.
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Fratello
Introducing: The Seiko Presage Classic Series Craftsmanship Unglazed Arita Porcelain Dial Limited Edition SPB497
Let me present you with a dilemma. What dial type do you prefer - lush lacquer, enticing enamel, or pristine porcelain? It’s a difficult choice, right? Before reaching your verdict, please have a look at the new Seiko Presage Classic Series Craftsmanship Unglazed Arita Porcelain Dial Limited Edition. This watch highlights artisanal qualities, resulting in […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Presage Classic Series Craftsmanship Unglazed Arita Porcelain Dial Limited Edition SPB497 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New anOrdain Model 2 Porcelain, With In-House Produced Dial
anOrdain, the Glasgow-based independent watchmaker celebrated for reviving enamel artistry in contemporary timepieces, now broadens its repertoire with the Model 2 Porcelain. Building on the success of its Model 2 with the vitreous enamel dials, this new chapter sees anOrdain take a step into the world of true porcelain, developed over a three-year period in […]
Time+Tide
Selten’s Métiers d’Art Collection showcases artisanal enamelled dials that won’t break the bank
Hong Kong's Selten offers exceptional patterned grand feu enamel dials at an exceptionally affordable price.The post Selten’s Métiers d’Art Collection showcases artisanal enamelled dials that won’t break the bank appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Highlights: Magnificent Chinese Market Timepieces at Phillips Hong Kong
The Geneva sales have wrapped up, but the spring auction season continues in Hong Kong, where Phillips will offer a collection of unexpected and wonderful pocket watches made for the Chinese market in the 18th and 19th centuries. As Europeans became enamored with Chinese goods such as tea, silk, and porcelain, the Chinese were equally enraptured by European watches and clocks, often adorned with miniature enamel painting, pearls, gemstones, and hand engraving. Genevan enamelling, in particular, was world-leading and adorned some of the most elaborate timepieces of the 19th century. Proof of that can be found in the Patek Philippe Museum’s extensive collection of Chinese market watches and clocks. Today, Chinese market watches seem alien in their lavish and ornate decoration. Collectors’ tastes have become homogenized over time, particularly today, which makes historical Chinese market watches stand out as a world unto themselves, both in style and mechanics. A mini collection of such watches will be sold during the first session of Phillips’ The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XX at 6:30 pm on May 23, 2025. The extraordinary miniature enamelling found on a clockwatch by L. Vrard & Co. Lot 801 – Perfume Sprinkler Pistol by Moulinié & Bautte & Cie Geneva historically specialized in the manufacture of oddly shaped “fantasy watches” watches during the early 19th century. Common forms include fruits, musical instruments, animals, and flowers. Some of the more exotic fanta...
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035
Having already revealed the Tradition “Souscription” as the first watch for its 250th anniversary, Breguet has just launched the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035. Essentially a throwback to a first-generation Tradition model, the new 7035 is set apart by its flinque enamel dial, a first for the Tradition collection. And unlike the regular-production Souscription, the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde is limited to 250 pieces. Initial thoughts While the Classique Souscription is eminently traditional (despite its case style), the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde feels more traditional Breguet with a style that is more typical of the brand’s current offerings. The enamel dial is a good way of rebooting the Tradition, which is now two decades old. And the watch itself is beautiful and still Breguet in style. However, this is arguably less interesting than the Souscription, because its only point of difference is the grand feu enamel dial for the time. Dial aside, it’s basically the preceding model in new dress. Breguet does have more in store for its 250th anniversary than a pair of Tradition models, so it’ll be worth keeping an eye on the brand as the year progresses. Tradition throwback The new Tradition is a variant of one of the first models in the collection, but upgraded with an enamel dial. The solid gold dial is decorated in flinque enamel, which is fired translucent enamel over engine turning in the Quai de l’Horloge pattern, which was developed for Breguet’...
SJX Watches
Hands On: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif
After teasing collectors with the compact Chronomètre Furtif Bleu in 2023, F.P. Journe has unveiled its successor, the Chronomètre Furtif (CF). The CF offers the same dimensions as its predecessor as well as a similar laser-engraved grand feu enamel dial, but takes the idea of furtif, or “stealthy”, even further with black-on-black livery. While the CF Bleu was a one-off piece in tantalum made for the Only Watch charity auction where it sold for CHF2 million, the new CF is a regular production model crafted almost entirely from scratch-resistant tungsten carbide. Initial thoughts The CF is a watch that hits you over the head with its intense darkness and exceptional weight. It’s not dark in the same way as an H. Moser & Cie. Venturer Vantablack, which effectively absorbs light; rather, the dial is a deep glossy black like the glass of an iPhone screen. This reflectivity makes it difficult to photograph but easy to enjoy. These characteristics are thanks to the flawless black grand feu enamel dial and laser-engraved markings. Because of the way the light plays across the dial, it looks slightly different from almost every angle. It’s a dramatic and interactive dial that contributes significantly to the overall wearing experience. The CF is a true heavyweight, tipping the scales at 250 g. But it feels even heavier on account of its wearable 42 mm footprint and slim 9.55 mm thickness. This size-to-weight ratio gives it an almost overwhelming sense of density. The wa...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 27000M Complicated Desk Clock
Patek Philippe’s Complicated Desk Clock Ref. 27000M-001 is the biggest release of Watches & Wonders 2025, with a footprint of 164.6 by 125 mm, and rising to 76.73 mm at its apex. Priced at an even CHF1 million before taxes, the clock is powered by a key-wound, 31-day movement – incorporating a one-second remontoir d’egalite – housed in a wedge-shaped sterling silver cabinet, decorated with green flinqué enamel. Initial thoughts While we’ve seen desk and table clocks from others in the space, none have been as incredibly high-effort as this. Patek Philippe claims the 912-part shaped caliber took seven years of development, including nine patent applications. That’s quite the investment in a product with limited mainstream appeal, and I find it reassuring that Patek Philippe is still willing to make those investments. The enamel work is enchanting and has precedent in early 20th-century silver travel clocks retailed by Cartier, among others. I could take or leave the baroque styling, but the dial and hidden “dashboard” look fantastic. I hope Patek Philippe will offer this movement in other styles down the road. If you’ve never experienced a key-winding watch or clock, it’s quite satisfying; I wouldn’t call it fun, but it’s not something you’re likely to get sick of. It’s an experience you can’t get with Patek Philippe’s other current production clocks, which use an electric motor to wind the movement without need of human intervention. The b...
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New: Breguet Classique Souscription 2025
Breguet releases the new Classique Souscription 2025 wrist watch - a one hand watch with only the minute hand over a pure white enamel dial.
SJX Watches
Breguet Turns to Tradition with the Classique Souscription
The opening salvo in Breguet’s 250th anniversary has just been revealed: the Classique Souscription 2025BH. Although typically Breguet in style, the watch is a novel combination of elements, at least by the conventions of Breguet, a traditionally staid brand. Presented in a case of the new design made of a gold alloy of a new formula, it’s a wristwatch inspired by the one-handed souscription pocket watches of the 18th and 19th centuries. The fired enamel dial replicates that of the pocket watch, while inside is the VS00, a calibre that is descended from the movement of the La Tradition. Initial thoughts As storied a brand as it is, Breguet certainly has a lot to live up to for its 250th anniversary. I expect more to come from Breguet in the coming months, but the Classique Souscription is a strong start, though a little pricey. It’s essentially an elaborately executed time-only watch, precisely the sort of watch that is popular now when made by independent watchmakers, but big brands face more scepticism with such timepieces. The VS00 Though it might seem typical Breguet on its face, the Classique Souscription is an unusual proposition; it’s inspired by various elements from across Breguet’s history, some several centuries apart. The dial and movement are inspired by a 19th century pocket watch, while the case comes much later. But everything works well and the whole manages to look like a Breguet. Traditionalists might mourn the departure from familiar elements ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 - A Celebratory Model For The Maison's 250th Anniversary (Live Pics)
Single-handed and enamel-dialed, the Souscription 2025 pays respectful homage to Abraham-Louis Breguet's most accessible masterpiece.
Fratello
Introducing: The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 - Initiating The Brand’s 250th-Anniversary Celebrations
Abraham-Louis Breguet was probably the first watchmaker to launch a watch with the help of a Kickstarter campaign. Okay, well, not exactly, but in 1797, he made his 61mm Souscription pocket watch available for order with a 25% down payment. That way, the relatively simple watch with only one hand and a white enamel dial […] Visit Introducing: The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 - Initiating The Brand’s 250th-Anniversary Celebrations to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look – The Gorgeous Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph 5370R
The watch we’re looking at today isn’t exactly new, not in the strictest sense. But the way Patek Philippe sets itself apart from its predecessors – the 5370P in platinum, first released in 2015 with a black dial and later in 2020 with a blue enamel one – is worth noting. This latest version introduces […]
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New: Patek Philippe 5370R
The Patek Philippe 5370R introduces a notable addition to the brand's collection with its debut in rose gold, marking a departure from previous versions. The use of a brown Grand Feu enamel dial paired with beige champlevé enamel subdials brings a distinct and elegant color combination.
Monochrome
Introducing – The new A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual
Deploying its full arsenal for Watches and Wonders 2025, the Saxon powerhouse A. Lange & Söhne unveils the Minute Repeater Perpetual, a potent horological cocktail combining a minute repeater with a perpetual calendar. A rare and ambitious mix, the imposing platinum Minute Repeater Perpetual with a black enamel dial is powered by a newly developed […]
Deployant
New: A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual
A. Lange & Söhne presents the new Minute Repeater Perpetual in platinum with a black enamel dial, limited to 50 pieces only.
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Plays the Classics with the Minute Repeater Perpetual
Topping A. Lange & Söhne’s 2025 line-up is the Minute Repeater Perpetual. Featuring a compact platinum case and black enamel dial, the new flagship watch of the Saxonia line marks the first time Lange has combined these two classic complications on their own. Limited to 50 pieces in platinum, the Repeater Perpetual is positioned near the top of the current catalogue. Beyond the technical complexity, it’s been endowed with an exceptional white gold and black enamel dial crafted in-house, and features the frosted movement finish that’s often reserved for the brand’s special editions. Initial thoughts It’s always nice to see a brand cover new ground, especially when that ground is the tried-and-true combination of a minute repeater and perpetual calendar. It’s an extravagant, decadent watch that combines one of the most legible perpetual calendar layouts with one of the industry’s most technically sophisticated minute repeaters. Beginning with its compact form, the Repeater Perpetual packs 640 components inside a platinum case that’s just 40.5 mm wide and 12.5 mm thick; roughly the same dimensions as a Rolex Submariner. It features an enamel dial in deep black, which is always a risk, since even the tiniest imperfections tend to stand out vividly. A cynic might point out that the new calibre L122.2 is largely a mashup of a Langematik Perpetual and Richard Lange Minute Repeater, but to do so would be to miss the point. The movement is everything Lange does be...
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Presage x Studio Ghibli Watch Review
It’s a little crazy to actually type this out but I never actually owned a Seiko watch until this year. Obviously I have reviewed, written about, photographed, and indeed appreciated dozens and dozens of Seikos throughout the decade I have been in this industry but there was never one that truly spoke to me as a collector. Well, that was until I saw news of the Presage SPB437, a beautiful limited edition done with a blue enamel dial as a tribute to Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind, one of my favorite movies of all time and the Hayao Miyazaki film that led to the creation of Studio Ghibli, the legendary Japanese animation studio. 2024 marked the 40th anniversary of Nausicaä which seems like the perfect opportunity to release a limited edition for the most hardcore fans. This is not the first Seiko watch done for Studio Ghibli as there was a pair of Presage watches released in 2020 for the also-great Porco Rosso. The first of these was the SNR047J1, a 500-piece limited edition done with a Spring Drive movement and a white enamel dial inspired by the cockpit of the Crimson Pig’s plane with subtle touches like red seconds hand, red R, and the The Tricolour Italian flag colors. The second of these was the SRQ033, a black enamel dial Spring Drive chronograph with similar color touches and a Tricolour seconds sub-dial at 3 o’clock that was limited to 600 pieces. These were magnificent pieces made for Ghibli-heads like myself though they were significantly pricer at ar...
Worn & Wound
The Cornell Watch Company Introduces Two New References, and Announces a Partnership with Hour Precision to Produce Watches in America at Scale
When John and Chrissy Warren relaunched the Cornell Watch Co. in 2023, it was something of an experiment. They wanted to revive luxury watch making in America … at scale. Now, with their launch year behind them, the Warrens have proven there is an appetite for high-end American watches, having sold and delivered their first 15 build slots for the beautifully crafted 1870 Classic Enamel. Now the Warrens are moving on to the next phase of their company: moving from producing small numbers of artisanal watches to producing hundreds of watches a year that compete in quality with Swiss brands. Part of the appeal of Cornell’s first watches in the relaunch, the 1870 Classic Enamel, was that the watch was put together by America’s leading watchmaker, Roland Murphy. Murphy’s reputation as an artisan who produces work of the highest quality made him an ideal partner for an American brand. His name leant credibility to the project and his years of experience running RGM Watch Co. meant the watches would be beautiful examples of craftsmanship. But relying on RGM Watches to assemble Cornell’s watches had a downside: the high-level hand-finishing they utilize means RGM doesn’t produce huge quantities of watches. And, of course, Cornell isn’t even the center of RGM’s business, meaning the 15 Cornell 1870 CEs produced by RGM in 2024 - 16 if you include a piece unique that was auctioned off - represent roughly what could be expected from the partnership year-over-year: ...
Deployant
New: Laurent Ferrier Classic Traveller Globe Night Blue
A new interpretation of the Laurent Ferrier Classic Traveller Globe Night Blue, with a new enamel dial. Details and commentary within.
SJX Watches
Hermès’ Latest Metiers d’Art Watch is Impressionist Equestrian
Hermès’ myriad interpretations of its signature motif ranges from the comic to the complicated. The Slim d’Hermès Cheval Brossé, on the other hand, is elegantly abstract. Retaining the familiar 39.5 mm case design of the “Slim” model, this features a meticulously handcrafted dial depicting a stylised horse rendered in brushstrokes. Unusually, the “Cheval Brossé” dial is the result of both artisanal and mechanical techniques: the base is traditional, hand-made grand feu enamel, while the horse is pad printed in multiple runs for each colour. Initial thoughts While the equestrian motif is repeated often, the versatility and creativity of Hermès’ design department allows the theme to stay fresh. The Cheval Brossé illustrates this: while the horse is recognisably Hermès in form and flavour, it is still striking different from prior models. Compared to several of Hermès’ other métiers d’art watches that tend to be more elaborate, the Cheval Brossé – French for “brushed horse” – possesses an understated aesthetic with its abstractly rendered horse set against the pristine blue enamel dial. Though the dial is simple, the “brushstrokes” that make up the horse give the dial a surprising degree of motion. The combination of enamel and pad printing, while not unique, is uncommon. Though this means the dial doesn’t boast the full-fledged artisanal craft, it certainly makes the watch more affordable. Sky blue enamel As is typical for a metie...
Worn & Wound
Some Of The Best Colorful Watch Dials
Many of us are guilty of it: in an entire collection, every last dial will be monochrome. White here, black there, and a dash of silver or grey mixed in. If one is particularly daring, there may even be a dark blue dial added in. But versatility isn’t everything - sometimes, a bright, in-your-face dial is the perfect antidote to a grey day. Watch dials have historically been places of decoration. Painted enamel dials were popular in the nineteenth century, with such vivid imagery as landscapes, battles, and hunting scenes adorning them. Though neglected through the early twentieth century, the colorful dial - now in more vibrant bursts of color - saw a vivid return in the mid-twentieth century when companies were scrambling to produce new timekeepers for the burgeoning underwater sport of SCUBA diving. A colorful dial can signal the change in seasons. For many, a bright dial immediately conjures images of sunny vacations, warm water, and worn paperbacks, while a muted dial can be the perfect companion during bleak midwinters, perfectly accenting the changed environment. A well-chosen dial can also inject color into both your collection and wardrobe, providing the right accent piece and adding the missing link in an otherwise perfect outfit. In this week’s Chronicle, we’re looking at some of our favorite colorful dials for those occasions when nothing else will do. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. I...
Quill & Pad
Blancpain Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar: Feed Your Horological Dragon!
Twelve years ago, Blancpain surprised the watch world by introducing a watch in their Villeret collection that featured a traditional Chinese calendar. For 2024, Blanpain releases a limited edition in red gold with oven-fired green enamel dial.
SJX Watches
Blancpain Introduces Villeret Chinese Calendar “Year of the Snake”
To mark the Chinese New Year that begins on January 29, 2025, Blancpain has unveiled the Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar “Year of the Snake”. For the first time, the brand combines a platinum case with a green grand feu enamel dial on its wristwatch that has the unusual complication of a Chinese lunisolar calendar. As with previous editions, the Villeret Chinese Calendar displays the symbol of the Chinese Zodiac in a small aperture located at noon, in addition to featuring a snake motif engraved on its frosted white gold rotor. Initial thoughts The ability of a perpetual calendar to accurately track months, dates, and days for decades, mechanically and without any manual adjustments, remains impressive even as the complication has become common. Watches with a traditional Chinese calendar, however, remain rare and arguably more impressive. Only a handful of brands have incorporated the traditional Chinese calendar into a wristwatch, with Blancpain being one of the earliest to do so, way back in 2012 ( and more recently H. Moser & Cie. has done the same). Admittedly, the latest edition of the Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar introduces little new beyond the platinum case paired with a green enamel dial. Both the design and movement remain the same. While not intrinsically novel, the new version of the Traditional Chinese Calendar remains an interesting complication, with the new livery being appealing in itself. Year of the serpent The snake zodiac edition is...
Deployant
New Video: Czapek Manufacture – the suppliers
Czapek CEO takes us on a tour of two suppliers: enamel dials at Donzé Cadrans and titanium case/bracelets at Ab Products & Ab Concepts.
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Arty, Fresh Paulin Modul D Manual Comes Straight from Glasgow, Scotland
While many will be familiar with anOrdain, the young brand specialised in accessible yet highly appealing vitreous (grand feu) enamel dials in all possible colours of the spectrum, there’s another brand coming from Glasgow, Scotland that should be under your radar; Paulin Watches. And the two are closely related, being owned by the same individuals […]
SJX Watches
Louis Erard’s Régulateur with an Engraved, Gilt Dial
The Le Régulateur Gravé Noir is a vintage-inspired take on Louis Erard’s signature regulator wristwatch. The “sector” dial has a grained black finish with engraved markings that are gold-plated, bringing to mind vintage “gilt” dials. Part of the brand’s Noirmont Métiers d’Art collection, the new Le Régulateur shares the same case design and specifications with the recent “Grand Feu” Enamel Regulator. Initial thoughts While Louis Erard is best known for its collaboration with independent watchmakers, such as Konstantin Chaykin and Kudoke, it offers a wider range of accessibly-priced regulator-style watches. And the Le Régulateur Gravé Noir is no different. It’s a fresh take on the vintage-inspired “sector” dial, combining the signature regulator display with rose-gilt engraved markings on a grained black dial. Priced at CHF2,900, the Gravé Noir stays within Louis Erard’s typical price range. It stands out from the competition in this price segment with the unconventional time display on a vintage-inspired dial. Like the brand’s other offerings, it is good value. It also shares the weaknesses of Louis Erard’s other regulator models, namely a thick case. Sector dial The Gravé Noir has the same dimensions as the rest of the Le Régulateur line with a simple, polished steel case measuring 39 mm by 12.82 mm. Inside is a self-winding Sellita SW266-1 that sports a rotor with the brand logo but is otherwise no frills. The movement has 38 hour...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Breguet Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367
Breguet’s ultra-thin tourbillon has been in its catalogue for some years now, but it remains one of the brand’s most sophisticated tourbillon models. The Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367 is just 7.45 mm high, making it one of the thinnest self-winding tourbillon watches on the market, a feat made possible thanks to clever peripheral winding. Though its movement is the brand’s latest tourbillon calibre, the 5367 is presented in classic Breguet style – with the enamel dial here or as the 5365 with a guilloche dial – and retains the quintessential Breguet elegance. Initial thoughts Unlike Breguet’s flagship tourbillon model, the massive Double Tourbillon 5345, the 5367 is slim, elegant, and feels like a classical Breguet. In terms of proportions the 5367 is comparable to the 7637 minute repeater, but the tourbillon is thinner and importantly, boasts a more modern movement. The enamel dial is available in traditional white or contemporary blue While the 7637 repeater is powered by a movement that has its roots in the 1980s, the 5367 contains the cal. 581, which is instantly recognisable as a recent construction. The most obvious giveaway is the automatic rotor camouflaged on the periphery, while the tourbillon contains a silicon escapement. The modernity of the construction means the cal. 581 lacks the old-school charm of Breguet’s earlier tourbillon movements, but the sophistication of the cal. 581 is undeniable. Not only is it exceptionally thin, it manages an impre...
Monochrome
Introducing – The New and Colourful Paulin Modul D & E Collection
You may not be familiar with Paulin Watches, but you’ve likely heard of anOrdain – Paulin’s sister brand. Both are based in Glasgow, Scotland where design and assembly occur, while Paulin’s dials are produced in Germany. anOrdain is known for its accessibly priced Grand Feu enamel dials, but Paulin specializes in whimsical models with colour […]
Worn & Wound
The Latest Massena LAB Collaboration is a Rare Heritage Inspired Moser
If you’ve been paying any attention to H. Moser & Cie. over the last few years, one thing should be abundantly clear - the Swiss watchmaker likes to keep things simple. While they may occasionally indulge themselves with an overwhelming quantity of dial text, or acquiesce to the need for a chronograph scale, Moser has increasingly adopted a minimalist approach in their watch design, with wide open expanses of dial and invisible logos taking center stage alongside hammered enamel finishes, minute repeater strikers, and elegantly finished hands. Today, Moser is throwing all that out, and, in partnership with Massena LAB, the brand is looking back to its history for what is, in many ways, its most traditional release in years. The Endeavour Chronograph Compax would, from anyone else, barely qualify as newsworthy. After all, what brand hasn’t dipped back into the well to create a historically-minded steel sports watch in recent years? Moser hasn’t, and that’s what makes this collaboration so interesting. Even the Heritage model, the closest the brand has come to the format, isn’t so much a recreation as a reimagination, a consideration not of how to make an old watch feel new, but a thought exercise in what H. Moser & Cie. might have made were the modern brand to find themselves in a different era. This new watch is not that. Though not a direct reproduction of any particular model, the new Endeavour Chronograph Compax is a genuine reflection on Moser’s history...