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Crown Guards

Integral case projections protecting the crown from impact; introduced on Rolex Submariner ref. 5512 in 1959.

Audemars Piguet Has Reinvented The Chronograph: What Does It Mean To The Watch World? Fratello
Audemars Piguet Has Reinvented Oct 9, 2025

Audemars Piguet Has Reinvented The Chronograph: What Does It Mean To The Watch World?

Audemars Piguet is celebrating its 150th anniversary by introducing plenty of novelties, and they’re not watches. The brand from Le Brassus is also presenting new movements. The latest perpetual calendars now feature an ingenious crown, for instance, but the biggest news of the year is undoubtedly the launch of the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding […] Visit Audemars Piguet Has Reinvented The Chronograph: What Does It Mean To The Watch World? to read the full article.

News - Rolex to Release its Second Authorized Book “Oyster Perpetual Datejust - A Watch that Made History” Monochrome
Rolex Sep 12, 2025

News - Rolex to Release its Second Authorized Book “Oyster Perpetual Datejust - A Watch that Made History”

Exactly one year ago, Rolex, with the help of author Nicholas Foulkes and publisher Wallpaper, took us by surprise when releasing the first-ever Crown-authorised book, The History of the Oyster Perpetual Submariner Watch. While such initiatives have been done on multiple occasions by other brands, a historical book receiving the stamp of approval of Rolex […]

Style and Substance in Greubel Forsey’s QP Balancier SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey s QP Balancier Greubel Sep 4, 2025

Style and Substance in Greubel Forsey’s QP Balancier

Greubel Forsey repackages its cutting edge perpetual calendar in a sleeker, more accessible format as the QP Balancier. It’s still a highly legible calendar that adjusts forward and back via the crown without need of tools or fear of damage. Despite the simpler styling, the QP Balancier retains the high-end movement decoration the brand is known for. Initial Thoughts Greubel Forsey was arguably a latecomer to the world of complications, spending its first decade on chronometry, refining the tourbillon. The brand’s first complication, the GMT presented in 2011, applied an unfamiliar approach to a familiar complication. That set the tone for the brand’s first perpetual calendar four years later – the Quantième Perpétuel à Équation. At its heart was a “mechanical computer” programmed with 48-month leap year cycle that allowed the calendar to be adjusted forward and back without issue, all from the crown. The Quantième Perpétuel à Équation of 2015 While the result is not novel, – Ulysse Nardin and H. Moser & Cie. have bi-directional perpetual calendar as well – the method certainly is. Greubel Forsey paired the mechanical computer with a similarly sophisticated in-line display – using four layers of stacked disks – making its perpetual as easy to read as it is to use. The new QP Balancier is a more focused watch than its predecessor, as it does away with the 24-second inclined tourbillon and equation of time. While wider, the case is also slimmer an...

Louis Erard Makes Hand Engraving Affordable SJX Watches
Louis Erard Makes Hand Engraving Affordable Aug 19, 2025

Louis Erard Makes Hand Engraving Affordable

Louis Erard’s niche is making either watchmakers or techniques affordable – the Gravée Main is hand engraving priced accessibly. The watch is entirely engraved by hand, across the bezel, case, crown, and buckle, with a classical leaf motif by Maksym Shavlak, a watchmaker and engraver from Ukraine. The resulting look is a blend of Gothic and Baroque, but the underlying watch retains the usual dimensions and movement of Louis Erard, while the dial is glossy black lacquer that evokes fired enamel. Initial thoughts I appreciate Louis Erard’s consistent focus on making interesting names or techniques affordable; its recent Damascus steel regulator being an example. Some micro-brands or one-man shops do the same for slightly less, particularly for certain decorative techniques, but without the finesse of Louis Erard. A good deal of credit for this goes to Manuel Emch, who oversees Louis Erard and lends his eye to the brand’s creations. The Gravée Main sits squarely in the sweet spot where Louis Erard excels. Admittedly, the ornate look is not for everyone, some might even find it tacky. But I like it; the look is appealing and the execution shows attention to detail. The tone-on-tone lacquered dial is a smart complement to the elaborate case. And that attention to detail is also evident in the engraving, which continues onto both the crown and buckle, which are sometimes overlooked. Price-wise the Gravée Main is pricier than the typical Louis Erard limited edition, bu...

Rolex GMT-Master II Review: The Bruce Wayne Rolex Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex GMT-Master II Review Aug 12, 2025

Rolex GMT-Master II Review: The Bruce Wayne Rolex

Before getting into the so-called "Bruce Wayne Rolex," let's establish some context. The Rolex GMT-Master is one of the Crown’s most popular models when it comes to the Professional line. It’s been an icon going back to its release in 1954, born out of a partnership with PanAm (in reality, it was a masterfully executed piece of marketing) that gave way to a new jet-setting, time-zone-malleable timekeeper. Since then, the GMT-Master (now the GMT-Master II, incorporating an even more user-friendly dual-time indication) has stood alongside the Datejust and Submariner as a core icon for the brand. It has also represented a platform for innovation for Rolex, being the first model line to see the brand transition to its “Super Case” format and its use of Cerachrom bezel tech. This paved the way for the introduction of a new, steel GMT-Master II in the late aughts with a black Cerachrom bezel insert, a green GMT hand, and green dial text. This stood for years as the most under-the-radar option for potential GMT-Master II buyers that didn’t feel comfortable slapping on a "Batman" or a "Pepsi." However, like many other popular models, it was discontinued. We saw echoes of its design materialize in form of the “Lefty” GMT, with its bi-color green-and-black bezel and matching green GMT hand. But the “Sprite” didn’t strike the same chord as that discontinued OG. Then the 70th anniversary of the GMT-Master rolled around in 2024, and Rolex surprised us all when it re...

Reviewing The New TAG Heuer Carrera Day-Date WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Carrera Day-Date Aug 1, 2025

Reviewing The New TAG Heuer Carrera Day-Date

With a new movement and a refined case, we take out the new TAG Heuer Carrera Day Date for a spin to see how this new release stacks up for the watch that is so closely linked with motor sport. What We Love The new TH31-02 Movement with increased power reserve The ease of wear and comfort on the wrist The pops of colour on the grained black dial What We Don’t Lack of a screw-down crown Lack of Super-LumiNova on the dial The Day-Date aesthetic may not be for everyone Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value For Money: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 So, I’m going to start this review by stealing a little from my TAG Heuer-loving co-worker, Mario. Why? Well, as they say, “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”, or “imitation is the sincerest form of flattery”, or “don’t reinvent the wheel”. In any case, Mario gave a great summation of this particular line of TAG Heuer Carreras in his write-up for them when they were released at Watches & Wonders this year. The Backstory (From Mario) By the early 2000s, Carrera chronographs were already well-established, but the newly LVMH-acquired TAG Heuer sought to create a watch that could display time as legibly and efficiently as its chronographs could record it. This vision materialised in the form of the Carrera three-hand timepieces, translating the timeless, functional design of the Carrera into a pure time-and-date model. These quickly became a staple of the modern TAG Heuer roster, as the cl...

The Agony Of Choice: Deciding Between The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 And 41 Fratello
Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 Jul 10, 2025

The Agony Of Choice: Deciding Between The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 And 41

Size matters. That’s certainly the case for the Rolex Oyster Perpetual that comes in no fewer than five sizes - 28, 31, 34, 36, and 41mm. This year, The Crown introduced three soft and shimmering pastel colors - lavender, beige, and pistachio. In addition, there’s a new glossy black lacquered dial and a “med blue” […] Visit The Agony Of Choice: Deciding Between The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 And 41 to read the full article.

Parmigiani Turns to Cermet for the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph SJX Watches
Jul 9, 2025

Parmigiani Turns to Cermet for the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph

Sportier and a little more affordable than its more elegant cousin, Parmigiani’s Tonda PF Sport was originally available only in steel. The Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Ultra-Cermet swaps out that conventional alloy for a case of cermet, a composite of ceramic and metal. Notably, the entire case – bezel, case middle, pushers, and crown – is in cermet. Initial thoughts Parmigiani has iterated its popular sports into many variations, perhaps too many, but the Tonda PF Sport in cermet is one of the most interesting so far. While the material is not new to watches, it is usually employed for one or two components, typically the bezel. The new Tonda PF Sport Chronograph is almost all cermet, which is gives it an appealing a single-tone appearance that goes well with the clean styling. The new chronograph is available in Milano Blue (left), and London Grey Material aside, it is essentially identical to earlier versions of the Tonda Sport PF Chronograph. Though it is little changed in fundamental terms, that’s not necessarily a bad thing as the PF070 movement inside ranks amongst one of the most sophisticated chronograph calibres, especially in sports watches. The only downside of the new material is the price hike. The cermet model is basically a 50% premium over the steel version, which the brand will not doubt justify in terms of machining and polishing complexity, but it is still difficult to rationalise. The PF070 Ceramic and metal Cermet is a composite of ceramic and...

Editorial: Why American Watchmaking is More Exciting Now than it Has Been in Years Worn & Wound
Rado Watch Company Jul 4, 2025

Editorial: Why American Watchmaking is More Exciting Now than it Has Been in Years

American watchmaking is having a moment. And if there’s any day that’s worth celebrating, it’s the Fourth of July. Happy birthday, America, hope you like Damaskeening! Just in the last month or so, we’ve seen a new release from J.N. Shapiro that could point to an entirely new and more accessible concept for the brand. Cornell Watch Co. revealed their new Lozier, with a case, dial, crown, and handset machined in the United States. Colorado Watch Company, the Fort Collins, CO based brand making cases and dials in-house with movements assembled in the United States, just shipped their first batches of new watches to customers after extensive prototyping. And Keaton Myrick, who makes watches completely by hand in vanishingly small runs in Oregon and somehow has flown under the worldwide watch community’s radar for years, just saw a fantastic result in a public sale via Phillips that went for just over the high estimate. And it’s not just that there’s a lot of activity. The watches mentioned above are all, actually, very very good, and show that American watchmakers and brands can succeed in multiple ways, using different models. Myrick and Shapiro operate at the very highest end of the spectrum, while Colorado Watch Company has the ethos of a microbrand (the project was funded via Kickstarter, just like their sister brand, Vortic). The Cornell model, though, is probably the most interesting to me. The majority of the watch is manufactured in the United States, bu...

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s New Reverso Tribute Geographic is a Traveller’s Dream (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
Jaeger-LeCoultre s New Reverso Tribute Jun 18, 2025

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s New Reverso Tribute Geographic is a Traveller’s Dream (Hands-On)

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s newest Reverso Tribute was made to travel the world, but will it stand firm here in Australia? Let’s find out! What We Love: Brilliantly and intricately designed Smooth and tactile operation Additional quality-of-life features What We Don’t: The crown feels slightly small Larger than most Jaeger-LeCoultre Reversos No hacking seconds on the movement Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Whether it be in a sales environment, information gathering for an upcoming review, or just cool and interesting watches from friends, new and old, I’ve had the privilege of handling a great many timepieces. Sure, it shouldn’t really come as a surprise that a guy from Watch Advice spends time with his company’s namesake, but often there are limits as to what I am able to see. I believe that no timepiece from any brand (yes, including the one you’re thinking about) is out of reach. Despite this, some are significantly harder to chase than others. This can be for a number of reasons: perhaps there is a waitlist, or maybe the brand just doesn’t make that many watches annually, or the model is close to/has been discontinued. In time, however, I believe the time will inevitably come where it becomes available – and when it does, the fruits of your labour and patience will be all the sweeter. That’s the exact relationship I have with Jaeger-LeCoultre. Founded in 1833, the Swiss watchmaker has spent t...

The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional Solargraph Review: Diamonds Included! WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional Solargraph Review May 17, 2025

The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional Solargraph Review: Diamonds Included!

In this review, my wife road-tested the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph in pink with diamonds. I asked her what she thought of the piece… What We Love The elegant but sporty look Great size for smaller wrists It’s light-powered, so no battery! What We Don’t The crown and protectors protrude a little Maybe on the thicker side for some as a smaller-sized ladies’ watch Clasp took a little while to get used to wearing being larger than an integrated bracelet with a butterfly clasp Overall Rating: 8.5 / 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph in the pink dial and diamonds was a piece that came out just prior to Watches & Wonders in mid-March along with a few other Aquaracer Solargraph drops. Similar to the Northern Lights collection that dropped at last year’s LVMH Watch Week it adds to the smaller 34mm sized Solargraphs with a choice of coloured dials and diamonds on the dial and bezel. Now, this isn’t a piece I would wear, but I could see many ladies out there having this as a daily watch. I mean, what’s not to love about it? It is a great size at 34mm so it’s not too small or too large for smaller wrists. It has the diamond indices which gives it a little more of that elegant or dressy look, and the pink dial is a nice pop of colour for those that want something a little more lively than blue, black or white. Sporty elegance with the TAG Heuer Aquar...

Oris ProPilot X Review Teddy Baldassarre
Oris ProPilot X Review Oris May 7, 2025

Oris ProPilot X Review

Oris made its first watch for aviators, the original Big Crown, way back in 1938, and has been riffing on that ingenious and influential design ever since. Defined by its large, fluted winding crown, designed to be easy for gripping by hands in heavy pilot’s gloves, the modern Big Crown series - now hosting both the sporty ProPilot and the more elegant Pointer Date versions - has become a major pillar in the independent Swiss brand’s portfolio. In 2020, Oris launched Caliber 400, the first in-house automatic movement it had made in its long history, and debuted it inside a watch from its popular Aquis diver collection, following that model up with a Caliber 400 version of its other divers’ model, the retro-styled Divers 65. In 2022, Oris finally arranged a marriage of its oldest watch model - well, a descendant of it, anyway - with its newest exclusive movement, introducing the first ProPilot X Caliber 400 models. Now available in a variety of avant-garde colorways, these siblings to the larger, Sellita-equipped ProPilot Date models (example below) offer a marked contrast with their predecessors while still carrying the banner of the overall series. Here is what you should know about the ProPilot X, where it came from, and what Oris has been doing with it lately. The Brand History: Paul Cattin and Georges Christian founded Oris in 1904, in Hölstein, Switzerland, naming the company after a nearby brook. A maker of pocket watches and, by 1925, the increasingly...

Introducing - Hamilton Expands the Khaki Navy Frogman Collection with a New, Black PVD Version Monochrome
Hamilton Expands May 7, 2025

Introducing - Hamilton Expands the Khaki Navy Frogman Collection with a New, Black PVD Version

Originally an American brand with a long history, Hamilton gained real-life experience in waterproof watches from a model used by US Navy underwater demolition teams. Dating back to 1943, Hamilton’s diver with an unusual locking mechanism on the crown was part of the Naval Combat Demolition Units (NCDUs) gear and used on mine-clearing missions. The […]

Introducing - The New Seiko Presage Style60s SRPL71, SRPL73, and SRPL75 Monochrome
Seiko Presage Style60s SRPL71 SRPL73 Apr 24, 2025

Introducing - The New Seiko Presage Style60s SRPL71, SRPL73, and SRPL75

The Seiko Presage Style60s collection has become a classic for the Japanese watchmaker. Inspired by the Crown Chronograph of 1964, even though we’re talking about time-and-date or GMT models in general, this collection brings vintage flair and casual style at reasonable prices. Recently, Seiko released a pair of new models – SRPL07 and SRPL09 – […]

Hands-On With The With The Rolex Oyster Perpetual In Two Of Three Soft New Shades Fratello
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Apr 14, 2025

Hands-On With The With The Rolex Oyster Perpetual In Two Of Three Soft New Shades

Of course, I was impressed by the new Land-Dweller, but I wasn’t charmed by it. To be honest, it’s been a while since The Crown launched a watch that charmed me. Yes, every watch is of superb build quality and a benchmark, but just like a Mercedes S-class, a modern Rolex is not exactly lovable. […] Visit Hands-On With The With The Rolex Oyster Perpetual In Two Of Three Soft New Shades to read the full article.

Cartier Revisits the Tank à Guichets with an In-House Movement SJX Watches
Cartier Revisits Apr 3, 2025

Cartier Revisits the Tank à Guichets with an In-House Movement

One of the most distinctive versions of Cartier’s signature rectangular watch, the Tank à Guichets has been revived as part of the Privé collection, joining watches like the Tortue Monopoussoir and Tank Cintree. The last time Cartier had such a model in its catalogue was exactly 20 years ago with the Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP) iteration. Sporting a crown at 12 o’clock like some historical examples of the model, the Tank à Guichets indicates the time in twin apertures, with jumping hours at 12 o’clock and minutes at six. Measuring a slim 6 mm in height, the Tank à Guichets (or “Tank with Windows”) is powered by a new in-house movement, the cal. 9755 MC. Notably, it will be a regular production model in yellow or rose gold, as well as platinum, plus an asymmetrical or “oblique” model that is limited to 200 pieces. The regular production models (left), and limited edition Initial thoughts The Tank à Guichets was always one of my favourite iterations of the Tank, and the popularity of the preceding version made it almost inevitable that Cartier would revive the design. The new Tank à Guichets is subtly different from the CPCP version, most notably in its slim profile, but still looks and feels correct. The finishing on the case is excellent, particularly on the polished bevels that frame the apertures. The movement, on the other hand, is concealed behind a solid back but is industrial in finish and style. That said, it is an integrated calibre ...

Rolex Introduces New Oyster Perpetual Watches And A Striking Red-Dial Datejust In Gold Fratello
Rolex Introduces New Oyster Perpetual Mar 31, 2025

Rolex Introduces New Oyster Perpetual Watches And A Striking Red-Dial Datejust In Gold

Rolex is introducing new Oyster Perpetual and Datejust options for us consumers. Even if the release of other models may grab the headlines, it’s great to see The Crown pay attention to the classics. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual line is the bedrock of Rolex sports-watch design, so it’s good to see the brand put at […] Visit Rolex Introduces New Oyster Perpetual Watches And A Striking Red-Dial Datejust In Gold to read the full article.

Introducing: The 2025 Tank Louis Cartier With An Automatic Movement And A Guilloché Dial Fratello
Cartier Mar 31, 2025

Introducing: The 2025 Tank Louis Cartier With An Automatic Movement And A Guilloché Dial

You’ve already seen the header image, so you know exactly what watch this article is about. However, when I say, “Roman numerals, railway track, parallel brancards, blued-steel sword hands, and a beaded crown with a cabochon on top,” what do you envision? Of course, that can only be a Cartier Tank. At Watches and Wonders […] Visit Introducing: The 2025 Tank Louis Cartier With An Automatic Movement And A Guilloché Dial to read the full article.

Introducing - The New Chronoswiss Small Second Blue Orbit and Desert Monochrome
Chronoswiss Small Second Blue Orbit Mar 31, 2025

Introducing - The New Chronoswiss Small Second Blue Orbit and Desert

Think of Chronoswiss, and certain image elements immediately come to mind: a watch with a fluted case, a large onion crown, most likely openworked, colourful, and with a regulator display – elements of a timepiece meant to stand out. With few exceptions, such as select Sirius models, the entire Chronoswiss catalogue, including the Heritage and […]