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Review: The New Louis Vuitton Tambour
Louis Vuitton, along with its watchmaking arm La Fabrique du Temps, redefines the Tambour, as it becomes the brand's first integrated bracelet sports watch.
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Time+Tide
The Louis Vuitton watchmaking moment everyone missed at Paris Fashion Week
The new Louis Vuitton Tambour just made its runway debut. Here's why that's so significant.The post The Louis Vuitton watchmaking moment everyone missed at Paris Fashion Week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Louis Moinet Savanna Tourbillon Tiger: It’s a Puzzle - It’s Literally a Puzzle
What makes high end watches so desirable is the artistry involved. For some watches, it is artistry in their complexity, or their superlative hand finishing, or intricate dials, and some feature actual artwork like miniature painting. Then there are a very few timepieces that offer all of that artistry and more: one such timepiece is the unique piece Louis Moinet Savanna Tourbillon Tiger.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie
In an unexpected movement, Louis Vuitton and Akrivia have just announced the Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie. Reflecting the collaborative nature of the watch, it has two faces – the tinted sapphire dial for the time and a fired enamel dial on the back for the chronograph. The LVRR-01 also boasts an unusual combination of complications: a chronograph with a chiming mechanism that strikes once every elapsed minute, along with a five-minute tourbillon – and a constant-force gear train. [NB: The watch pictured is one of two prototypes so the finishing, particularly the cleanliness of the movement, is not up to par.] Technically-minded enthusiasts will appreciate the sophistication of the movement, since the chronograph and sonnerie are driven by secondary barrel and going train that is effectively a one-minute constant force mechanism. Limited to 10 watches, the LVRR-01 is the first of a series of five collaborative projects between Louis Vuitton and independent watchmakers. The next project will be revealed in a year’s time, with the subsequent projects following the same annual timetable. Initial thoughts The LVRR-01 has the heft and gleam of a finely made watch. The chamfered edges on the platinum case immediately catch the eye, particularly because of the contrast with the brushed surfaces, and then the movement finishing becomes apparent through sapphire crystal. In fact, the smoked sapphire crystal perhaps obscures too much of the...
Time+Tide
The Louis Vuitton x Akrivia LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie proves Louis Vuitton is a safe haven for independent watchmaking
A partnership between Louis Vuitton and Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia marks the inaugural entry of Louis Vuitton's collaborative series with independent watchmakers.The post The Louis Vuitton x Akrivia LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie proves Louis Vuitton is a safe haven for independent watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Breaking: new Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie
We bring you breaking news of a new watch born out of the collaboration between Louis Vuitton and Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia.
Time+Tide
New releases from Nomos Glashütte, Louis Vuitton, Cartier and more
Last week's big releases were particularly colourful, from laser tag-inspired Zodiacs to beautifully enameled Louis Vuitton watches.The post New releases from Nomos Glashütte, Louis Vuitton, Cartier and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour Einstein Automata Only Watch 2023
We take a closer look at the Louis Vuitton Tambour Einstein Automata, the brand's entry into the 2023 edition of Only Watch.The post Louis Vuitton Tambour Einstein Automata Only Watch 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Louis Moinet Cosmopolis: Official Guinness World Record for Number of Meteorites in a Watch
The Louis Moinet Cosmopolis includes pieces from 12 different, and very rare, meteorites from Jean-Marie Schaller's own collection. And this earned him the Guinness World Records™ title for the "most meteorite inserts in a watch." Martin Green takes a closer look.
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New: Louis Moinet Cosmopolis
Louis Moinet creates a new tourbillon watch with 12 meteorite inserts! The Cosmopilis a few hours ago. We bring you the release with our commentary.
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Announces Semi-Finalists for Independent Watchmaking Award
The 20 semi-finalists of the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives have been announced. An initiative started by the French luxury giant, the prize aims to reward the best independent watchmaking by supporting the winner through a grant and mentorship. The semi-finalists represent the full range of talent from across the industry and world, with established names such as Strehler and Sarpaneva alongside relative newcomers such as Yosuke Sekiguchi. There is also a range of abilities in this list, from those who are making almost a complete watch under one roof, to those who conceive and then bring together craftspeople to execute. It is reassuring to see such a wide variety in styles and approaches being represented here. Selecting just five to move on to the finals will certainly not be an easy task for the panel of judges. The 20 semi-finalists are: Tischkalender Sympathique – Andreas Strehler Tourbillon Grand Sport – Auffret Paris Project One – Barrelhand Ultralight 11G – Behrens Tourbillon Classique, Souscription Édition – Deprez Horloger Homage to Harrison One – Felipe Pikullik Part Time – Itay Noy L’Abeille Mécanique – John-Mikaël Flaux Arkhea – Khemea KS 05 Titanium Blue Aventurine – Kross Studio Persée Nuit – Maison Alcée Roots – Narbel & Co Black Hole Tourbillon – Ondřej Berkus Fundamentum – Oscillon RP1 – Régulateur à détente – Pagès Chronographe Rattrapante – Petermann Bédat 119C – Sarauer Horolog...
Worn & Wound
Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin Return to their Time Eater Concept with a Darker Sequel
It’s no surprise that after the successful launch of the Time Eater, the viral collaboration between Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin that launched in April, that the two would attempt a follow up. In fact, not only is it not a surprise, it was expected by anyone who paid close attention to the marketing materials we saw earlier this year, which teased another release to come. Well, like the horror movie franchises that this collaboration sometimes evokes, the sequel has come quickly. The Time Eater II: From Dusk to Dawn, is a pair of watches that use the same basic design as the original Time Eater, but in a darker (literally and figuratively) execution. I don’t know if a “Halloween watch” is actually a thing, but given the aesthetic of the new Time Eater and the season we find ourselves in, it makes a strong case. Like the first drop, this release sees two different versions of the watch in two different case sizes, released alongside one another. Instead of the silvery white dials of the first pair, here we have black (for the 39mm watch) and anthracite (on the larger 42mm version). Both have bright red minute hands that match the major aesthetic shift on these new Time Eaters: a truly gross bloodshot eye hour register. It’s paired with the same sawtooth seconds register at 6:00, and when everything is put together it certainly gives off a spookier vibe, making the original watches with hints of purple and green seem downright playful by comparison. The ...
Worn & Wound
Louis Erard and The Horophile Collaborate on a Sleek Art Deco Inspired Limited Edition
If you had told me a few weeks ago that Louis Erard’s new collaboration with Amr Sindi, AKA, The Horophile, would be an Art Deco inspired watch with a quite literal approximation of the Empire State Building within the handset, I probably would have let out an audible groan. Not because I don’t have faith in Louis Erard (their run of limited editions over the past few years is basically a parade of nonstop hits) or The Horophile (whose Instagram feed reveals his exceptional taste), but because it just all seems so on-the-nose. Art Deco inspired designs are a pretty niche interest in 2023, but calling out the Empire State Building, perhaps the single most well known symbol of the design and architecture movement as a major point of reference, seems to me like a recipe for something that you’d find in the building’s gift shop. Well, I should have known better. Because the new watch from Louis Erard is beautifully subtle, and surprisingly modern in its sensibility. The Petite Seconde Metropolis incorporates a number of Art Deco hallmarks into a clean design that takes advantage of a Louis Erard platform that we’re starting to see used more frequently. As you might expect given the Art Deco themes, there was a large focus on the typeface used for the hours around the dial’s perimeter. Each numeral is very subtly “openworked,” and they’re presented in an uncommon circular fashion, which mimics the circular motif at the dial’s center. Importantly, these hou...
SJX Watches
Louis Erard Debuts an Art Deco Collaboration
Louis Erard gained a cult following collaborations with partners ranging from independent watchmakers to industrial designers. Now, the brand has teamed up with Switzerland-based watch influencer Amr Sindi, better known by his Instagram handle The Horophile. Their project, the Le Petite Seconde Metropolis, draws direct inspiration from Art Deco with its clean, distinctive dial. Initial thoughts Following their recent collaboration at Raketa, it comes as no surprise that Louis Erard chief Manuel Emch (who’s also helping run Raketa) and Mr Sindi have once again united their creative forces. While deviating from the contemporary design accented by Mr Sindi’s trademark purple that characterised his past creations, the trio of timepieces represent a unique interpretation of 1920s style. The watches evoke the era without being remakes of 1920s watches. They are distinctive yet unbranded, enabling the design to be conveyed clearly. Aside from the Art Deco hour numerals, there is absolutely no text on the dial whatsoever. In my view, this exemplifies how watch brands should design a retro watch, rather than simply generating a remake based on archives. While the dial is new, the rest of the watch is identical to the regular production model. That means a relatively thick case, which is the only major shortcoming of the design. The Le Petite Seconde Metropolis is priced at US$2,900, which is roughly in the same price range as the standard version of the model. Although the pr...
Revolution
The New Louis Vuitton Tambour; Redefined and Redesigned
Wei & Eleonor speak with Jean Arnault, Director of Watches at Louis Vuitton, to discuss the newly released Louis Vuitton Tambour. Redesigned as a lugless, bezel-less, integrated bracelet sports chic watch, the new Louis Vuitton Tambour is the most fiercely original offer in this hotly contested category, and speaks to the design intelligence of its […]
SJX Watches
Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour
Louis Vuitton has redesigned its trademark wristwatch some two decades after it was introduced. In contrast to its predecessors, the Louis Vuitton Tambour has been refined and condensed into a thin, streamlined wristwatch that’s just 8.3 mm high. Sporting a touch of 1970s style, the new Tambour is equipped with the LFT023, an automatic movement featuring a micro-rotor. Representing the first of a new generation of Louis Vuitton movements, the LFT023 was developed by movement maker Le Cercle des Horlogers and features novel details like frosted bridges with relief borders and clear jewels. The new Tambour replaces all existing Tambour models, save for the high-end complications, like the automatons and minute repeaters, as well as the entry-level Street Diver. As a result, the once diverse and occasionally confusing offer of watches is rationalised to essentially three lines – Street Diver, the new Tambour, and complications. Initial thoughts Now 20 years old, the Tambour has been around long enough to become easily recognisable as Louis Vuitton’s trademark watch case. The original Tambour was an appealing design, particularly when paired with complications – I am personally a big fan of some complicated Tambour models – but it felt chunky even on a smaller scale. So the new Tambour is everything that the original was not – svelte and restrained. On its face it is not as recognisable as the original, but in profile it is clearly evolved from the original. The sl...
Time+Tide
Jean Arnault tells the story of the new Louis Vuitton Tambour
To most people an entry-level watch would be something like a Casio, Seiko, or maybe a Hamilton if you want to go Swiss. However, Louis Vuitton have made a significant declaration that they’re not interested in catering to ‘most people’. Although the Louis Vuitton Tambour range has included some true technical marvels, the air of … ContinuedThe post Jean Arnault tells the story of the new Louis Vuitton Tambour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Louis Erard and Massena LAB Follow Up on Last Year’s Regulator with a New Monopusher Chronograph
Last year’s Massena LAB collaboration with Louis Erard, a regulator in an unmistakably classic style with variants in gold and rhodium dial executions, was a success for both brands, with the watch being shortlisted for the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. This week, that release gets a follow up in the form of the new Le Chronographe Monopoussoir Louis Erard x Massena LAB, a monopusher chronograph that shifts the design language of last year’s release to a new complication. The driving force behind Massena LAB, to make a style of watchmaking typically reserved for only the most well heeled collectors accessible to anyone, is very much apparent in the new monopusher, as it takes both a complication and visual aesthetic that are often associated with a certain level of opulence and made them quite a bit more approachable. The monopusher is an interesting counterpoint to last year’s regulator. In terms of mechanical complexity, the monopusher has a clear edge, yet the design here is striking in its restraint. The regulator shows its time telling information in a busy cluster of hands and subdials, but with the monopusher we only get one additional register, a 30 minute counter at the 12:00 position. It’s a simple and straightforward execution of a complication that can often be something of an eye chart, and with the single pusher that simplicity is carried over to the chronograph’s literal operation as well. Aesthetically, we get a similar treatment on the ...
SJX Watches
Louis Erard Introduces the Le Chronographe Monopoussoir Massena LAB
Louis Erard has once again joined forces with Massena LAB for another take on a common complication. Le Chronographe Monopoussoir draws inspiration from 19th century pocket watches and continues with the styling from the first time these two brands collaborated. Initial thoughts Louis Erard’s brand identity is continually shaped and defined by its many partnerships. Its latest collaboration with Massena LAB continues this creative streak with a relatively classical complication in the form of a mono-pusher chronograph. Building upon their collaboration from last year, the latest timepiece has kept the distinctive grained dial that is industrially finished but well executed. They have opted for a more restrained design by having just a single register at twelve, deviating from the traditional two- or three-register configuration of most chronographs. Despite the minimalist aesthetic, the watch is very big at 43 mm wide and 15.7 mm thick. The thickness in particular is a lot and the size may turn some people off. The carries a substantial presence on the wrist, arguably too much for a watch of this style. One reason for the size is the movement, which is the same Sellita calibre found in all Louis Erard chronographs, including the Alain Silberstein iteration. For that reason, it also remains in the same price range, with a retail of US$4,950, making it fair value as an interesting yet affordable chronograph. At the same time, this distinguishes itself through the class...
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces the Tambour Street Diver Chronograph
Two years ago, Louis Vuitton unveiled the Tambour Street Diver, a livelier iteration of its longstanding Tambour dive watch. Now the brand debuts the Tambour Street Diver Chronograph, adding further a stopwatch to the nautical-inspired aesthetic. Together, the two Street Divers now form the entry-level of the brand’s mechanical watch offerings, which progress upwards into seven-figure, minute-repeater-with-automaton territory. Initial thoughts The new chronograph is a natural progression from its predecessor, retaining the elements of a traditional dive watch, including a less-common inner rotating bezel, while incorporating Louis Vuitton’s bold and modern styling, including the tall, drum-shaped case. The design is as much “street” as it is “diver”, and very much in keeping with the brand’s aesthetic. Both the case and dial are executed well, although the two-tone case might not be to everyone’s taste. Enthusiasts, however, will note the ETA movement inside. The movement is reliable and robust, though the US$11,105 price tag deserves a more interesting calibre. That said, given Louis Vuitton’s well-funded ambitions in watchmaking, it is a certainty that the brand will soon roll out in-house calibres in all price segments of its catalogue. Nautically inspired The new chronograph available in two variations: Skyline Blue (blue with metallic sun-ray finish) and Neon Black (matte black), each matched with a case colour in the same colour. Both have the same ...
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New: Louis Moinet Savanna Tourbillon - the real jigsaw watches
Louis Moinet creates a real work of art with their new Savanna Tourbillon - with hand painted artisanal dials which are assembled in 4 layers.
Time+Tide
Monster mash-up: Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin team up for a fearsome collab
Konstantin Chaykin introduces a new one-eyed monster in collaboration with Louis Erard Le Regulateur is available in both 39 and 42mm variants These timepieces are inspired by Stephen King, Goya and the Slavic monster Lykho Louis Erard has always specialised in elegant, fairly affordable Swiss watchmaking. Of late, however, thanks to the guidance of interim … ContinuedThe post Monster mash-up: Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin team up for a fearsome collab appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Teams Up with Independent Watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin for their Latest Limited Edition
Louis Erard is continuing their run of impressive and whimsical limited editions with a pair of regulators made in collaboration with none other than Konstantin Chaykin, the AHCI member and independent watchmaker known primarily for his Wristmons series of character watches. With this collaboration, Louis Erard returns to working with a member of the independent watchmaking community (they have previously collaborated with Alain Silberstein and Vianney Halter) after a series of watches made with less likely partners, including an architecture firm (atelier oï) and a miniature marquetry specialist. Like the other collaborative watches before it, the new watch with Chaykin has the bones of a Louis Erard, but has been left with an unmistakable signature by the collaborator. Looking back, a collaboration between Louis Erard and Chaykin seems meant to be. After all, Chaykin’s signature Wristmons series of watches are basically regulators already, featuring separate hour and minute discs representing the “eyes” of the character being portrayed in the watch (personally, I’m partial to the Minion). For this limited edition, Chaykin was inspired Likho, a cyclops figure from Slavic folklore. Likho’s eye is the dial’s focal point, acting as the hour “hand” at the 12:00 position. At 6:00, running seconds are represented by a wheel decorated with pointy teeth, so it serves as a constantly moving mouth, which is both quite clever and a little disconcerting. The extra ...
SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin and Louis Erard Team Up on Le Régulateur “Time-Eater”
With a knack for novel collaborations with partners ranging from industrial designers to guillocheurs, Louis Erard’s latest project brings on board Konstantin Chaykin. The result is Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time-Eater, a regulator-style wristwatch inspired by the Russian independent watchmaker’s signature “rolling eye” watches. Inspired by a one-eyed monster from Slavic folklore, the Time-Eater has a whimsical vibe that departs from Louis Erard’s more serious offerings like the recent example with a hand-made wood marquetry dial. It is available in either a 42 mm or 39 mm size, or both together in a two-piece box set. Initial thoughts Following its successful collaborations with other notable watchmakers, it’s perhaps no surprise that Louis Erard recruited Konstantin Chaykin. Earlier partnerships, with Vianney Halter for instance, broadened the appeal of the independent watchmakers by making the name accessible at a far lower price point. Despite Mr Chaykin’s specialty in avant-garde or fantastical designs, the Time-Eater is surprisingly restrained compared to his own creations, no doubt because it is based on the existing template of the Louis Erard regulator. As a result, it is not the full-blown Konstantin Chaykin watch that collectors might expect from the Russian watchmaker. But then again, the price of about US$4,000 means the Time-Eater is about the fifth a price of Mr Chaykin’s trademark Minion watch. The Time-Eater watch is...
Revolution
In Conversation with Jean Arnault: The Louis Vuitton Watch Prize
Eleonor sits down with Jean Arnault, Marketing and Development Director for Louis Vuitton Watches, to talk about his much anticipated initiative to discover the next generation of independent watchmakers: The Louis Vuitton Watch Prize. The Louis Vuitton Watch Prize aims to raise the profile of independent watchmakers around the world that are creating watches in […]
Deployant
New: Louis Moinet Impulsion - chronograph tourbillon
Louis Moinet releases their version of the classical complication combining the chronograph with a tourbillon - the Impulsion.
Revolution
In Conversation with Jean-Marie Schaller, CEO of Louis Moinet Part II
In Part II of our conversation with Jean-Marie Schaller, Owner and CEO of Louis Moinet, Jean-Marie tells Wei about the second design pillar of the brand, Cosmic Art. With the Super Moon, Astronef, Space Revolution and the recently released Space One, Louis Moinet showcases the different dimensions of its watchmaking, marrying the use of materials […]
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces the Voyager Skeleton
Louis Vuitton has been steadily growing its presence in the realm of serious watchmaking, an endeavour that began with its purchase of movement specialist La Fabrique de Temps (LFT) a decade ago. While its recent launches have been extravagant in typical Louis Vuitton style – ranging from a gothic automaton to the casino-inspired jump hours – the brand’s latest is contemporary and low key. Enter the Voyager Skeleton, an open-worked timepiece that incorporates Louis Vuitton’s design language in an unexpectedly minimalist design. Initial thoughts While Louis Vuitton’s top-of-the-line complications are certainly showstoppers, its simpler, regular production watches have historically been a mixed bag. But with a clear change in direction at its watch division, changes seem to be afoot, beginning with the Voyager Skeleton. Granted, it is hardly an affordable watch at over US$50,000, but it is a good looking time-only watch. The highlight is the styling of the open-worked LV60 movement that is both striking and restrained. The bridges possesses a distinctive, geometric style that is decidedly architectural. Although the automatic-winding bridge clearly forms a large “LV”, the branding is surprisingly discreet. In fact, the face of the watch has no overt branding, save for the open-worked barrel. Overall, the execution of the movement is appealing and lives up to expectations, save for one detail – the Etachron regulator looks out of place considering the ...
Revolution
VIDEO: See new Louis Moinet novelties up-close
Jean-Marie Schaller strove for years to find out more about the legendary watchmaker Louis Moinet, who had very little surviving documentation about him. He acquired the Louis Moinet brand with its trademarks in 2000, and eventually discovered that Louis Moinet was the inventor of the chronograph and of high frequency watches. At Watches and Wonders […]
Time+Tide
The new Cartier Tank Louis Cartier collection is all about mosaics, lacquer, and gold
Four new Cartier Tank Louis Cartier models The two mosaic models utilise tri-gold (white, rose and yellow) finished dials Two models bring the green and burgundy lacquer dials from the 2021 Must collection into the manually wound Tank LC format The Cartier Tank is one of the most iconic watch designs of all time, and … ContinuedThe post The new Cartier Tank Louis Cartier collection is all about mosaics, lacquer, and gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.