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The COMEX Submariner Story Rolex

French saturation-diving company COMEX (1961) and Rolex partnership 1967 onward. Drove the joint Rolex/Doxa invention of the Helium Escape Valve.

Craft at Scale: Audemars Piguet’s Industrial Strategy SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet s Industrial Strategy Audemars Mar 6, 2026

Craft at Scale: Audemars Piguet’s Industrial Strategy

Audemars Piguet (AP) is a storied name in haute horlogerie, and has long been the public face of the Vallée de Joux, the cradle of high complications in Switzerland. It’s also the only brand in the so-called ‘holy trinity’ to employ a Chief Industrial Officer (CIO). We sat down with Lucas Raggi to understand his role in shaping AP’s industrial strategy. The historical home of Audemars Piguet. Image – Audemars Piguet The context Having closed the chapter on the brand’s first 150 years, AP is flying high. According to Vontobel estimates, the brand generated more than CHF2.4 billion in 2025, making it the third-largest brand by revenue after mass market masters Rolex and Cartier. The brand is estimated to have produced more than 50,000 watches in 2025, up from 30,000 just a few years ago. The ribbon-cutting ceremony at the opening of AP’s new Arc Manufacture in Le Brassus. Image – Audemars Piguet The new Arc Manufacture, which just came online, might raise the ceiling further. In a 2022 interview then-chief executive François-Henry Bennahmias suggested AP would be capable of making up to 65,000 watches annually by 2027. These numbers represent extraordinary growth for a century-old family owned brand that makes complicated watches. So how does a brand like AP (nearly) double its output in less than a generation without sacrificing small-scale craftsmanship? In short, thoughtful industrialisation. The recently opened Arc Manufacture in Le Brassus. Image – A...

Felix the Cat Pilots Bremont’s Latest SJX Watches
Bremont s Latest Bremont’s Altitude Mar 5, 2026

Felix the Cat Pilots Bremont’s Latest

Bremont’s Altitude MB Meteor Felix the Cat puts one of military aviation’s most mischievous mascots on the wrist in a 42 mm titanium pilot’s watch that turns the tradition of wartime nose art into a wearable 500-piece limited edition. Inspired by on the brand’s long-running Martin-Baker collaboration, the Felix edition pays tribute to the iconic cartoon mascot of the US Navy’s VFA-31 “Tomcatters” fighter squadron. Initial thoughts Bremont built its brand on military aviation-themed watches, and the Altitude MB Meteor proves it understands the cultural hallmarks of this niche better than most. The Felix edition taps into the enduring tradition of nose art - the cartoon characters, pin-ups, and mascots that have adorned military aircraft for over a century - drawing on one of the US Navy’s most recognisable icons. Creating visual coherence, the depiction of Felix is outlined in yellow, echoing the black-and-yellow stripes of the balance end of the seconds hand, which is meant to evoke an ejection seat grab handle. This has long been a Bremont motif, and is actually one of the brand’s strongest calling cards, dating back to the original 2007 collaboration with British ejection seat maker Martin-Baker (hence the ‘MB’ designation in the model name). The Altitude MB Meteor is the latest mission in this campaign, and retains the dual-crown architecture and textured case band of the original. That said, several details of the 42 mm case have been changed,...

Introducing – The New H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Alpine Drivers Pink Edition is Performance, Exposed Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Alpine Mar 2, 2026

Introducing – The New H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Alpine Drivers Pink Edition is Performance, Exposed

With the start of the 2026 Formula 1 season (Australia Grand Prix, March 6-8), H. Moser & Cie. adds a vivid new chapter to its collaboration with BWT Alpine Formula One Team and presents the Streamliner Alpine Drivers Pink Edition. This limited series updates last year’s concept through colour and contrast.  The familiar Streamliner case […]

In-Depth: Orient Star’s Smart Silicon Escape Wheel SJX Watches
Seiko Epson’s massive industrial base Feb 26, 2026

In-Depth: Orient Star’s Smart Silicon Escape Wheel

While silicon mechanical movement components have swept across Switzerland, adoption has been slow within the Japanese watch industry, stymied by Swiss patents and professed concerns over the material’s durability. To this day, it remains the unlikely domain of Orient Star, a small brand with priority access to Seiko Epson’s massive industrial base. This positions Orient Star to capitalise on consumer demand for increasingly long power reserves, without sacrificing performance. Thanks to an ultralight and geometrically efficient escape wheel with a patented design, Orient Star is able to deliver a 70-hour power reserve without resorting the same counter-productive trade-offs to balance energy made by some Swiss peers – here’s how it was done. A silicon wafer of escape wheels. Image – Seiko Epson The quest for longer power reserves Recent consumer demand for longer power reserves has sent the industry’s engineers scrambling for ways to increase the autonomy of existing movement platforms. A movement’s power reserve is dictated by the length of the mainspring, which unwinds at a constant rate. That is why using a chronograph doesn’t cause a watch to run down faster – usually. Of course, you need to find somewhere to fit that extra length of mainspring while maintaining the movement’s dimensions, such as by thinning out the barrel walls, narrowing the inner barrel arbour radius, or, reducing the thickness of the mainspring. However, while decreasing the ma...

Introducing – Mother-of-Pearl Dials for the Czapek Antarctique S Ice Cloud and Promenade Midnight Pearl Monochrome
Czapek Antarctique S Ice Cloud Feb 25, 2026

Introducing – Mother-of-Pearl Dials for the Czapek Antarctique S Ice Cloud and Promenade Midnight Pearl

Among the incredible variety of materials used to decorate dials, mother-of-pearl is an all-time favourite. Obtained from the inner lining of oyster and mollusc shells, mother-of-pearl is a captivating, naturally iridescent material that adds a unique shimmer to dials. Working with GT Cadrans, a specialist Swiss dial manufacturer, Czapek embellishes its Antarctique S and Promenade […]

TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E5 X Formula 1 Edition: The Smartwatch Built for F1 Fans WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E5 X Feb 25, 2026

TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E5 X Formula 1 Edition: The Smartwatch Built for F1 Fans

As the F1 season for 2026 is about to get underway, official timing partner TAG Heuer has released a special Connected Calibre E5 X Formula 1 edition that puts you right in the action! What We Love 45 mm case size is perfect for a fitness-oriented smart watch for those with average and above wrists The ability to customise the interface and displays Interconnectivity with the F1 app – perfect for F1 fans What We Don’t Spoiler alerts if you want to watch the races after they have run (like I do) Smart watches are not for everyone, so consider if this is for you It is not designed for smaller wrists, but the 40 mm Connected range fills this void now Overall Score: 8.9 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 The Formula 1 season is upon us again, and 2026 marks TAG Heuer’s second year as the sport’s official timing partner. To kick off the season, which starts next week in Melbourne, TAG Heuer has released a special edition Connected E5 smartwatch designed with Formula One fans in mind. Based on the new Connected E5 45mm models released last year, this isn’t just a cosmetic redesign. The watch delivers real-time Formula One data, giving fans up-to-date information throughout the season and across each race weekend via a direct link with the F1 App and the FIA. The new TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E5 x F1 Edition First Impressions I reviewed the Connected E5 last year in the 40 mm case size, and it proved excellent for track...

Moser’s Streamliner Goes All-Ceramic for the First Time SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie dips Feb 24, 2026

Moser’s Streamliner Goes All-Ceramic for the First Time

H. Moser & Cie. dips its toes into ceramic for the first time with the Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic, a bold watch that blends an original design with the high-tech proprieties of ceramic. Despite being a variation of a well-known model at its core, the new Streamliner is unexpectedly different and appealing, especially with a hand-finished ceramic bracelet, an unusual feature even in its segment. Initial thoughts The use of ceramic materials in watches is no longer a novelty. The inert and hard material is appealing for its near-invulnerability to scratches and high tech feel. Ceramics are typically employed for either for aesthetic or technical purposes, but usually for watch cases, while ceramic bracelets are almost exclusively the preserve of large brands that can afford working with the hard-to-machine material.  Though still a niche brand, H. Moser & Cie.’s bestselling Streamliner is dressed entirely in ceramic, with a ceramic case paired with a ceramic bracelet. An all-ceramic bracelet is a rare sight from a brand of Moser’s scale. The matte, brushed finish of the ceramic exterior is at the opposite end of the colour spectrum compared with the bright red yet minimalist dial, giving this the signature Moser look. The granular, glossy finish of the fired enamel dial contrast and complements the matte, stealthy sheen of ceramic.   The watch is paradoxical in some ways. Pairing Moser’s first ceramic case and bracelet with a tourbillon is somewhat incong...

Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Freak X Gumball 3000 – Edition 2 Made For The “Road to the World Cup” Fratello
Ulysse Nardin Freak X Gumball 3000 Feb 23, 2026

Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Freak X Gumball 3000 – Edition 2 Made For The “Road to the World Cup”

I can’t help it, but every time I read something about the brand and rally Gumball 3000, I think of the 1981 action-comedy The Cannonball Run, with Burt Reynolds, Dom DeLuise, Roger Moore, and, of course, the dazzling Farrah Fawcett. The hilarious movie, which might feel a bit outdated if you watch it today, was […] Visit Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Freak X Gumball 3000 – Edition 2 Made For The “Road to the World Cup” to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Citizen × Seconde/Seconde/ Tsuyosa Limited Edition Fratello
Citizen × Seconde/Seconde/ Tsuyosa Limited Feb 20, 2026

Hands-On With The Citizen × Seconde/Seconde/ Tsuyosa Limited Edition

Whenever Citizen announces a new Tsuyosa, I am all ears. The brand’s hit watch has been a fan favorite ever since it debuted in 2022. I have had the pleasure of reviewing multiple Tsuyosa models and was impressed every single time. For its latest release, the Japanese brand collaborated with Romaric André, aka seconde/seconde/, for […] Visit Hands-On With The Citizen × Seconde/Seconde/ Tsuyosa Limited Edition to read the full article.

Introducing – H. Moser & Cie. Releases its First Ceramic Model with the Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Releases Feb 18, 2026

Introducing – H. Moser & Cie. Releases its First Ceramic Model with the Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic

In just six years, H. Moser & Cie.’s fluid Streamliner luxury sports watch collection with integrated bracelets has grown exponentially. An indication of the roadmap Moser envisioned for the Streamliner, the first model of 2020 featured a sophisticated flyback chronograph. Now home to models ranging from central seconds to perpetual calendars and from small seconds […]

H. Moser & Cie. Joins The Ceramic Crew - Introducing The Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic Fratello
H. Moser & Cie Joins Feb 18, 2026

H. Moser & Cie. Joins The Ceramic Crew - Introducing The Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic

Ceramic watches have been around for ages. The high-tech material with remarkable qualities and an unmistakable appearance has a significant fan base, and plenty of brands recognize that. Not Moser. The brand from Schaffhausen, known for its unconventional ways, never ventured into the world of ceramic watches until now. But the retro-futuristic H. Moser & […] Visit H. Moser & Cie. Joins The Ceramic Crew - Introducing The Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic to read the full article.

Introducing: The Rado True Round × Les Couleurs Le Corbusier Special Editions Fratello
Rado True Round × Les Feb 12, 2026

Introducing: The Rado True Round × Les Couleurs Le Corbusier Special Editions

Rado has a long-standing collaborative relationship with Les Couleurs Suisse. Until now, this has led to 12 releases that used Le Corbusier’s 63-shade color system, which he described in his book Polychromie Architecturale. For its latest collaborative effort, Rado took it a step beyond just using the Swiss-French architect’s color system. While these watches each […] Visit Introducing: The Rado True Round × Les Couleurs Le Corbusier Special Editions to read the full article.

Introducing: Eight Curated Reverso Watches From The 1930s Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre s fifth capsule collection Feb 11, 2026

Introducing: Eight Curated Reverso Watches From The 1930s

Oldies but goldies. Reverso watches from the 1930s comprise Jaeger-LeCoultre’s fifth capsule collection of The Collectibles. As you can see, this time, the focus is squarely on the brand’s iconic model, the reversible Reverso, originally launched in 1931. All eight watches were fully authenticated and restored in the brand’s restoration workshop in Le Sentier, Switzerland. […] Visit Introducing: Eight Curated Reverso Watches From The 1930s to read the full article.

Introducing – The Snow-White Alpina x Label Noir Alpiner Manufacture Date Special Edition Monochrome
Alpina x Label Noir Alpiner Feb 10, 2026

Introducing – The Snow-White Alpina x Label Noir Alpiner Manufacture Date Special Edition

Renowned for its rugged all-terrain watches for outdoor adventures, Alpina goes off-piste with its new Alpiner Manufacture Date watch made in collaboration with Geneva customisation expert, Label Noir. Reflecting Alpina’s close ties to the alpine world, the Alpina x Label Noir features a snow-white dial and an unprecedented (for the brand) hammered case. The 130-piece […]

Introducing: The Chopard × Zagato Lab One Concept Watch - Experimental, Outspoken, And Just 43.2 Grams Fratello
Chopard × Zagato Lab One Feb 9, 2026

Introducing: The Chopard × Zagato Lab One Concept Watch - Experimental, Outspoken, And Just 43.2 Grams

Chopard working with Zagato is a bold move. Of all the famous Italian coachbuilders, Zagato is the most outspoken. The marque dates back to 1919, and its automotive legacy started in 1928, when a Zagato-bodied Alfa Romeo 1750 claimed victory at the Mille Miglia. The bulbous forms and flowing shapes recall Ugo Zagato’s expertise in […] Visit Introducing: The Chopard × Zagato Lab One Concept Watch - Experimental, Outspoken, And Just 43.2 Grams to read the full article.

Urwerk’s Reimagines Entry-Level UR-100V in Ceramic SJX Watches
Urwerk s Reimagines Entry-Level UR-100V Feb 9, 2026

Urwerk’s Reimagines Entry-Level UR-100V in Ceramic

Urwerk continues to iterate its most accessible model with the UR-100V “LightSpeed” Ceramic. The Lightspeed is essentially a variation of an earlier model, with ceramic composite replacing carbon composite. The ceramic composite incorporates fibreglass and carbon fibre, giving it a textured surface and greater strength. Though it’s relatively affordable compared to other Urwerk models, the UR-100V still retains the brand’s signature elements, including a wandering hours display and various astronomical-time indicators on the dial. Initial thoughts The UR-100V now exists in a multitude of variations, perhaps too many, but the Lightspeed stands out as one of the most interesting in both material and style. The ceramic composite case is appealing for both its appearance and utility – it is hard, strong, and lightweight – and is being used for the first time by Urwerk. It also doesn’t cost that much more than earlier versions of the model, making this iteration more compelling. More broadly, I would have liked Urwerk to vary the display across the UR-100V line, beyond the case material, making each iteration more distinct. As they stand, most share the same dial and indications, with only the case changing for each edition. Light and white Because the case is a ceramic composite rather than pure ceramic, it has a textured surface with a slight glossiness. These characteristics stem from the fibreglass and carbon fibre sheets within the composite, explaining the w...