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Quartz Crisis

1969-1985 industry collapse triggered by the Seiko Astron. Cost Swiss watchmaking two-thirds of its workforce; rebounded via Swatch Group consolidation and Biver's Blancpain.

Wiki · Guide
The Quartz Astron Launch Seiko

Christmas Day 1969: Seiko launches the world\'s first quartz wristwatch and detonates the Swiss watch industry.

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Seiko 5 Sports Honda Motocompo Limited Edition: Scooter Yellow in 36.4mm

Eight thousand pieces. One very specific shade of yellow. Seiko and Honda celebrate the Motocompo's 45th anniversary with a watch that's hard to ignore.

Exclusive · Guide
Limited Edition Seiko Turtle HBB002: PADI's 60th in Sunburst Blue

Seiko's Prospex Turtle HBB002 marks PADI's 60th anniversary. Electric sunburst blue dial, ceramic bezel insert, 200m water resistance, an 8,000-piece run, and a €750 price tag that puts it squarely in the impulse-buy bracket for a real diver.

Seiko Launches a Pair of Updated Marinemasters with their Higher End 8L45 Movement Worn & Wound
Seiko Launches Mar 19, 2026

Seiko Launches a Pair of Updated Marinemasters with their Higher End 8L45 Movement

A common critique leveled at Seiko over these last few years is that they’ve abandoned the affordable enthusiast dive watch market and have been creeping toward a higher priced product. Honestly, it’s fair. Those of us of a certain age can fondly remember the days when an SKX diver could be had for a few hundred bucks, and it basically stood alone in the Venn diagram of pedigree, dive watch bona fides, enthusiast credibility, and affordability. The fact is, there’s a lot of competition for affordable divers these days, much of it driven by the popularity of a handful of key Seiko references.  So it’s no wonder that they’ve sought to expand their footprint elsewhere and make a higher end, more expensive product. What often gets lost in these conversations is that the higher priced Seiko divers are actually very good dive watches that still cover much of that hypothetical Venn diagram, perhaps leaning a little further away from affordability. Seiko recently announced a handful of new references and while many of us hoped a truly affordable SKX alternative might be in the mix, they’ve once again debuted a new diver at a higher rung of their pricing ladder.  The highlight for collectors and serious Seiko fans will likely be the Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver’s Watch (the official Seiko naming conventions are always a bit cumbersome). Yes, this is yet another mostly historically accurate take on the first ever diver rated to 300 meters of water r...

Hands-On With The Three New King Seiko Vanac Watches In Titanium Fratello
Seiko Vanac Watches Mar 18, 2026

Hands-On With The Three New King Seiko Vanac Watches In Titanium

Some things must be titanium - orthopedic implants, for example. And the Lockheed SR-71 “Blackbird,” the retired Mach 3+ reconnaissance aircraft, could only do what it did because it was made of titanium. The three new titanium King Seiko Vanac watches might also qualify as something that just has to be made from that special […] Visit Hands-On With The Three New King Seiko Vanac Watches In Titanium to read the full article.

Introducing: The Updated Seiko Prospex Marinemaster HBF001 And HBF002 Fratello
Seiko Prospex Marinemaster HBF001 Mar 18, 2026

Introducing: The Updated Seiko Prospex Marinemaster HBF001 And HBF002

It’s been a relatively quiet start to the year for Seiko when it comes to the Prospex series. In the brand’s 145th year, we have seen some notable releases in the King Seiko, Seiko 5 Sports, and Presage series. However, new Prospex watches have been limited to a new Speedtimer released just after the new […] Visit Introducing: The Updated Seiko Prospex Marinemaster HBF001 And HBF002 to read the full article.

Seiko’s New Marinemaster Gives the People What They Want SJX Watches
Seiko s New Marinemaster Gives Mar 18, 2026

Seiko’s New Marinemaster Gives the People What They Want

Less than two years out from its 2024 relaunch, Seiko refreshes its flagship dive watch with the new Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver’s Watch HBF001 and its limited edition counterpart, the HBF002. Both models feature a ceramic bezel, longer power reserve, better promised timekeeping, and a much-requested tool-less micro-adjust clasp - tangible upgrades that justify a near 25% premium over the previous generation. The regular production model launches alongside a more flamboyant 1,000-piece limited edition designed in collaboration with the Japan Agency for Marine-Earth Science and Technology (JAMSTEC). Initial thoughts Seiko relaunched the Marinemaster brand three years ago with an unexpected trio of compact skin-divers. This was followed by a return to form the following year with a pair of 300 m Hi-Beat Diver-inspired models that dispensed with the “Professional” branding, front-loading case construction, and helium impermeability that distinguished Marinemasters of the past, but offered a more compact 42 mm size and a much improved bracelet. However, it still used the same stamped clasp body found on entry-level divers, just with an upgraded swing arm, and relied on the aging cal. 8L35 movement while Seiko rolled out the improved cal. 8L45 in the similarly priced King Seiko Vanac. The new HBF001 solves all of those problems, and introduces only a few new ones. Given the similarity to the SLA079, Seiko clearly felt the need for unambiguous differentiatio...

First Look - Seiko Prospex Revamps the Marinemaster, with the 1968 Heritage Diver HBF001 and JAMSTEC Limited HBF002 Monochrome
Seiko Prospex Revamps Mar 18, 2026

First Look - Seiko Prospex Revamps the Marinemaster, with the 1968 Heritage Diver HBF001 and JAMSTEC Limited HBF002

Prospex Marinemaster… When you hear these two words, you know things are about to become serious. The name Prospex is all about tool watches for Seiko, being the contraction of Professional Specifications. This is the line of watches where you’ll find instruments made for exploration and diving. Marinemaster is another name with great importance for […]

The King Seiko Vanac Returns in Titanium SJX Watches
Seiko Vanac Returns Mar 18, 2026

The King Seiko Vanac Returns in Titanium

One of Seiko’s recent bestsellers was last year’s King Seiko Vanac, a watch inspired by a 1970s model but distinct on its own. Originally available only in steel, the line-up now grows to include the King Seiko Vanac in titanium. While retaining the stylistic and mechanical features of the steel original, the new Vanac in titanium is noticeably lighter in weight, an especially appealing upgrade given the largish case and integrated bracelet. Initial thoughts I liked the original Vanac of 2025, though I thought a marginally smaller case would have suited the retro style better. And I thought it would have been ideal in titanium. So the new model in titanium is arguably the ideal Vanac. It’s the same size, but different in tactile feel due to the lightness. Given the size, the lightweight alloy arguably works better than steel. Despite the Vanac being a mid-range watch, Seiko’s excellent case treatment across prices and alloys means the multiple planes of the facetted case are finished well, as good as, but probably better than, most titanium watches in this price segment. The titanium models are a little less funky in terms of dial colours, though the standout metallic purple dial does make its way into the titanium case. The dial does, however, get a subtle upgrade with a novel motif that combines horizontal and radial fluting for an intriguing visual effect. The movement stays the same. This gets the brand’s top-of-the-line mid-range movement, the cal. 8L45, an ...

eBay Finds: A Killer Vintage Omega DeVille, a Vintage JDM Seiko Diver, and a Funky Hamilton Chronograph Worn & Wound
Hamilton Chronograph eBay Finds Mar 13, 2026

eBay Finds: A Killer Vintage Omega DeVille, a Vintage JDM Seiko Diver, and a Funky Hamilton Chronograph

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Wyler Dynawind  Got some great Finds for you this week, beginning with this super cool and seldom seen vintage Wyler Dynawind. The stainless steel case is made in an octagonal shape, with nice angled lugs that match. The case appears unpolished, with sharp corners and clearly legible caseback engravings. No mention of the case size, but I’d guess it’s in the 35mm range. The black dial has really unique chevron shaped steel inlays on either side, complementing the angles of the case perfectly. Steel dauphine hands and no date window complete the angular, symmetrical design. The crown is signed with the Wyler “W” logo as it should. No movement pictures but it runs per the seller. The watch is on a vintage steel stretch band, but this would look sharp with a nice black croc strap in my opinion.  View auction here Vintage Seiko DX  Next up is a lovely vintage Seiko DX in superb condition. The 36mm steel case is unpolished, with sharp edges and original brushed and polished finish. The case has integrated lugs that attach to the original steel bracelet with a Seiko signed buckle. The dial is a beautiful, two tone bullseye design, with silver in the middle and a blue outer ...

Grand Seiko Teams Up With Shohei Ohtani For Global Partnership Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Teams Up Mar 12, 2026

Grand Seiko Teams Up With Shohei Ohtani For Global Partnership

Grand Seiko is announcing a new global partnership with Major League Baseball player Shohei Ohtani this week through something called the Grand Moments Project, which kicks off April 1, 2026. Ohtani, who is a star pitcher (and designated hitter) for the defending world series champion Los Angeles Dodgers, not to mention the reigning National League MVP, hails from the Iwate prefecture of Japan, which is also home to Grand Seiko’s Studio Shizukuishi. The partnership represents a mutual respect, and shared philosophy around the value of, and approach to, time.  The Grand Moments Project encapsulates this approach to every moment with intention and sincerity, and over time, the accumulation of those moments “refines the quality of time itself”. This is a partnership that seeks to acknowledge the methodical approach to every action we take, and celebrate the process itself over just the end result. Shohei Ohtani represents this ethos with an astonishing career made through a pursuit of excellency moment by moment. The 31 year old phenom comments “To carry forward a part of Grand Seiko’s heritage, shaped through decades of dedication, is something I deeply value.”  Ohtani’s unique evolution within the sport of baseball is an apt corollary to Grand Seiko’s approach to watchmaking. Neither represents a straightforward journey, with Ohtani choosing to embrace his talents on both sides of the field as both a pitcher and a hitter while working his way from the Hokk...

Finding My Seiko UFO 6138: A Collector’s Lesson In Humility, Patience, And Rediscovery Fratello
Seiko UFO 6138 Mar 9, 2026

Finding My Seiko UFO 6138: A Collector’s Lesson In Humility, Patience, And Rediscovery

Vintage Seiko chronographs have a way of pulling you in. They’re mechanically ambitious, unapologetically ’70s, and just rough enough around the edges to feel honest. Spend enough time around references powered by the 6138 and 6139 calibers, and you’ll understand why so many collectors fall hard for them. My journey started in 2019 while stationed […] Visit Finding My Seiko UFO 6138: A Collector’s Lesson In Humility, Patience, And Rediscovery to read the full article.

A Wishlist for Watches & Wonders 2026 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grand Seiko Mar 9, 2026

A Wishlist for Watches & Wonders 2026

Each year I find it surprisingly difficult to crystalise what I want to see from Watches & Wonders – perhaps I find it hard to hope for things I know will never come. Sometimes dreams aren’t logistically possible. For example, a compact Spring Drive chronograph probably isn’t reasonable given Grand Seiko already has its hands full scaling production of another new Spring Drive movement. At other times, imagination is bound by brand strategy: Cartier could easily steal the show with a quartz Crash Must priced along the same lines as a Tank Must – but never will. But I believe that the following watches, which I’d like to see from Patek Philippe, Grand Seiko and Credor, and Tudor are plausible enough to hope for. The following images were created without the use of generative AI. Patek Philippe In 2023, Patek Philippe launched the ref. 5316/50P, a minute repeating tourbillon with retrograde perpetual calendar and smoked sapphire dial. It remains among the brand’s best complicated offerings, other than the ref. 6301p, at least in my view. Last year Patek Philippe followed up with the ref. 6159G, which featured a smoked sapphire dial and the same perpetual calendar on a more pedestrian base movement. But if there is one reference more deserving of the smoked sapphire treatment than any other, it is the ref. 5236p in-line perpetual calendar, as imagined below in platinum. In 2021, Patek Philippe revived the historic in-line perpetual calendar, which is strongly asso...

The Seiko SNA414 Gold Flightmaster: A Gilded Take on an Enthusiast Classic Worn & Wound
Seiko SNA414 Gold Flightmaster Mar 6, 2026

The Seiko SNA414 Gold Flightmaster: A Gilded Take on an Enthusiast Classic

The Seiko SNA411 has been an icon of the watch industry for years. Frequently appearing on “Best Affordable Watches” lists, it’s no wonder Seiko’s other two variants would eventually catch the eye of collectors as well. The SN413 is far and away the most sought-after variant of the Flightmaster formula, but what about the often overlooked SNA414? I’ll be the first to admit that gold-tone watches are typically not in habitual rotation within my collection––aside from a few special pieces––but that doesn’t mean there’s not a lot to enjoy about this model. What makes the SNA414 a good candidate for your next acquisition? Let’s find out. The SNA414 History and Design Nailing down a definite release date for the SNA414 is difficult, but according to numerous blogs, press releases, and wristwatch websites, it appears this variant began production sometime between late 2007 and early 2008. I’m unsure whether all three variants of the lineup were released at the same time, but from sources consulted online, it appears they were at least announced and brought to market around the same time. I must note that the name “Flightmaster” may confuse a few collectors out there who may have seen another model of Seiko’s catalog nicknamed with the same moniker. In the 1990s, the first iteration of the Flightmaster was released with the 7T34 movement. The -6A09 variant is technically the first gold Flightmaster the brand produced, making the subject of this art...

Grand Seiko White Birch Review: A Brand-Defining Future Classic Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko White Birch Review Mar 5, 2026

Grand Seiko White Birch Review: A Brand-Defining Future Classic

Grand Seiko is a brand that’s adept at making the intricate seem effortless. This talent for restraint is best demonstrated dial side, specifically with its play with textures that call for a second (or third, fourth, and so on) look. While the deceptively simple “Snowflake” dial is among the brand’s most renowned examples of its mastery of subtlety, today, I’m pulling focus to another iconic example of Grand Seiko’s dial mastery with the more dramatic White Birch variation. Down below, I’ll be breaking down the importance of the “White Birch” SLGH005 in Grand Seiko’s recent history, some of its guiding design philosophies, as well as all the necessary specs you need to know. [toc-section heading="History And Context"] Debuting in 2021, the SLGH005 with its “White Birch” dial marked a historic turning point for the brand, and in the years since, it has become regarded as an example of the brand’s strengths firing on all cylinders. Before its introduction, Grand Seiko had already become synonymous with intricately textural dials (which, of course, drew inspiration from the natural world), but the White Birch texture is really when the brand turned up the heat an extra notch.  Before, the brand largely relied on radial and horizontal textures, and it isn’t a coincidence that the continuous series honoring the Japanese micro-seasons (most famous being the “Shun-bun”) was already in play before the White Birch hit the scene. Many of these dials...

Review: the Traska Chronograph Worn & Wound
Seiko NE86 automatic chronograph Dial Mar 3, 2026

Review: the Traska Chronograph

It’s gonna be cold, it’s gonna be grey, and it’s gonna last you the rest of your life. Okay, perhaps the quote from Groundhog Day has a bit too ominous of a tone when discussing a watch. Pretend maybe this was said in a nice way, give me a bit of a break (there’s been snow on the ground for 6 weeks) and we can move on with this hands-on of Traska’s newest entrance into the horological space – The Chronograph. This 39mm automatic chronograph is packed with features and comes in at a fairly reasonable $1650. The matte grey dial, unique approach to chronograph sub-dials, and attention to detail on finish and features makes this one stand out from the pack. Let’s take a closer look at this brand new piece from Traska that seems to check a lot of boxes that we as enthusiasts look for in our next watch.   $1650 Review: the Traska Chronograph Case Hardened Stainless Steel Movement Seiko NE86 automatic chronograph Dial Tungsten grey with applied indices Lume BGW9 SuperLuminova Lens Sapphire Strap Hardened stainless steel bracelet Water Resistance 75 meters Dimensions 39 x 46.5mm Thickness 13.75mm Lug Width 21mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $1650 Case Clocking in at a very reasonable 39mm wide, the Traska’s hardened steel case wears great on my 6.75” wrist. The case features a mix of brushed surfaces with polished bevels. It’s a nice mix of finishing that blends the more matte elements with the high shine polishing, resulting in a case that is interestin...

eBay Finds: A Vintage Speedmaster MK II, a Grand Seiko in Pristine Condition, and a Funky LED Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Feb 27, 2026

eBay Finds: A Vintage Speedmaster MK II, a Grand Seiko in Pristine Condition, and a Funky LED

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Bulova Ardsley We start off this week with a sweet little vintage Bulova dress watch from 1953. The seller doesn’t state the size but it’s going to be in the 25mm range. But while it’s small in stature, it’s mighty in the style department. The yellow rolled gold case has fancy lugs and a thick acrylic crystal that is like a little pyramid, divided into four angled quadrants, which give it a very cool look. The original crown is signed with the Bulova logo. The champagne/silver dial is original and in great condition, featuring stylized Arabic numerals and dot markers along a sub-seconds dial at 6 and sword hands. The case of course shows some wear, but watches of this era seldom don’t . The Bulova manual wind caliber 10BT movement is clean and runs well per the seller. Nice stylish piece that shouldn’t stress the wallet. View auction here  Grand Seiko 5646-7010  And now I won’t keep you waiting any longer for the gem of this week’s finds, which is this spectacular vintage 1972 Grand Seiko 5646-7010. This beauty is the epitome of Seiko’s famous Grammar of Design aesthetic, with broad, flat planes and contrasting highly polished and brushed surfaces with sharp ...

In-Depth: Orient Star’s Smart Silicon Escape Wheel SJX Watches
Seiko Epson’s massive industrial base Feb 26, 2026

In-Depth: Orient Star’s Smart Silicon Escape Wheel

While silicon mechanical movement components have swept across Switzerland, adoption has been slow within the Japanese watch industry, stymied by Swiss patents and professed concerns over the material’s durability. To this day, it remains the unlikely domain of Orient Star, a small brand with priority access to Seiko Epson’s massive industrial base. This positions Orient Star to capitalise on consumer demand for increasingly long power reserves, without sacrificing performance. Thanks to an ultralight and geometrically efficient escape wheel with a patented design, Orient Star is able to deliver a 70-hour power reserve without resorting the same counter-productive trade-offs to balance energy made by some Swiss peers – here’s how it was done. A silicon wafer of escape wheels. Image – Seiko Epson The quest for longer power reserves Recent consumer demand for longer power reserves has sent the industry’s engineers scrambling for ways to increase the autonomy of existing movement platforms. A movement’s power reserve is dictated by the length of the mainspring, which unwinds at a constant rate. That is why using a chronograph doesn’t cause a watch to run down faster – usually. Of course, you need to find somewhere to fit that extra length of mainspring while maintaining the movement’s dimensions, such as by thinning out the barrel walls, narrowing the inner barrel arbour radius, or, reducing the thickness of the mainspring. However, while decreasing the ma...

Introducing: The Seiko 5 Sports SRPM09 HUF Limited Edition Fratello
Seiko 5 Sports SRPM09 HUF Feb 25, 2026

Introducing: The Seiko 5 Sports SRPM09 HUF Limited Edition

Seiko has used its 5 Sports collection to reintroduce some of its great designs from the past. Often, they have been collaborative, limited-edition releases that have become hugely popular. With the new Seiko 5 Sports SRPM09 HUF Limited Edition, the brand brings back another funky watch from its archives. The new watch shows inspiration from […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko 5 Sports SRPM09 HUF Limited Edition to read the full article.

Seiko and HUF Revisit the Playful and Affordable Time Sonar SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 5975 Seiko offered Feb 25, 2026

Seiko and HUF Revisit the Playful and Affordable Time Sonar

Seiko and American streetwear brand HUF team up to reimagine a classic from Seiko’s back catalogue with the affordable Seiko 5 Sports HUF Limited Edition. Inspired by Seiko’s Time Sonar flyback chronographs from the 1970s, the sunburst translucent dials have been given a new look in HUF green that works particularly well with the sonar theme. Initial thoughts Seiko’s latest streetwear collaboration is with HUF, an American brand founded by professional skateboarder-turned-fashion designer Keith Hufnagel. This is Seiko’s fourth outing with HUF, following a trio of diver-style “5KX” limited editions. The dial is inspired by a pair of Time Sonar flyback chronographs with translucent plastic dials that Seiko sold during the 1970s. Despite not being a chronograph, the design is essentially the same as the original, which also had only three hands despite being a chronograph. The Seiko 7015-6010. It initially came with a compass that attached to the strap – most were lost with time. Image – Seiko Design 140 In its original chronograph format, the user could leave the Time Sonar’s chronograph running to act as a sweep seconds hand while reducing wear on the vertical clutch, and a flyback function enabled immediate timing of intervals up to one minute. In this sense, the unusual functionality was similar to that of the more recent Patek Philippe ref. 5975. Seiko offered the originals with brown and blue-green translucent dials (meant to appeal to teenagers) which...

Seiko To Host The “Power Design Project Presents: Passionately And Obsessively Crafted Watches” Exhibition Fratello
Seiko Feb 21, 2026

Seiko To Host The “Power Design Project Presents: Passionately And Obsessively Crafted Watches” Exhibition

Flying on Tuesdays or Wednesdays is usually the friendliest for your wallet. And the month of March also falls into that category. Excuse me for getting a little ahead of myself. Let me explain why I’m providing these potentially superfluous travel tips. The reason is a watch event taking place in Tokyo, Japan. From March […] Visit Seiko To Host The “Power Design Project Presents: Passionately And Obsessively Crafted Watches” Exhibition to read the full article.