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Monochrome
First presented in 2015, the Tudor Northflag (back then named the North Flag) was an important model for the brand. Not only did it bring back a 1970s style – that of the slightly controversial Ranger II, a bold exploration-inspired take on the integrated sports watch – but it mostly was Tudor’s first watch with […]
Time+Tide
Tudor's latest GMT watch is not what you might think... The Tudor Northflag is back with a bang
Monochrome
It’s fair to say that since Manuel Emch joined Louis Erard in 2021, the brand has blossomed. Whether it’s the wide range of collaboration watches produced with esteemed watchmakers (Silberstein, Chaykin, Halter) or its lineup of beautiful dials, often crafted with traditional decorative techniques at accessible prices, Louis Erard has become a go-to brand for […]
Worn & Wound
From the imposing astronomical clocks of Tudor England to the exquisite pendant watches of Victorian Britain, timekeeping has long been a symbol of power, prestige, and technological marvel within Europe’s royal courts. This new series explores the fascinating evolution of clocks and watches crafted specifically for royalty, tracing how these intricate masterpieces reflected the tastes, ambitions, and innovations of monarchs. Through the lens of craftsmanship, artistry, and historical significance, we reveal how these royal timepieces marked the passage of dynasties and empires. King George III, who reigned from 1760 to 1820, had a deep interest in science, particularly astronomy, horology, mathematics, and natural philosophy. He was one of the most scientifically minded British monarchs and commissioned several important horological instruments and supported scientific institutions during his reign. King George III (1738–1820) is often remembered for his struggles with mental illness during his long reign, but he was also deeply engaged in science, astronomy, and horology. Although his interest did not necessarily come directly from his grandfather, King George II, there are examples of important commissions made prior to him succeeding to the throne. One such piece is the magnificent Grand Orrery below made by leading London maker, Thomas Wright in 1733. Image 1 – George II’s Grand Orrery, Fleet Street, made by Thomas Wright, c.1733. King’s College London © T...
Fratello
Tudor just unveiled its new Northflag watch. The name isn’t new, as the brand initially launched this explorer’s model in 2015, just before Baselworld. I clearly recall that launch, which featured Tudor bringing Land Rover Defenders into a dark Swiss forest (ensuring safety) to reveal the watches inside an adventurous tipi tent setup. The Tudor […] Visit A New Adventure With A Familiar Name: The New Tudor Northflag GMT to read the full article.
Video
Looking for the best dive watches in 2026? In this guide, I'm covering the best dive watches at every budget, from affordable divers under $1,000 all the way to luxury icons over $10,000. Whether you're buying your fi...
Hodinkee
What We Know Tudor's North Flag has always been something of an outlier. It was originally launched in 2015 at Baselworld and was the first Tudor to feature one of the brand's in-house movements. Only ever available in two specs, on a bracelet or on a leather strap, the North Flag (91210N) was discontinued in 2021. Today, the Northflag (now one word) returns, evolving the 2015 offering with a single reference that sports a 24-hour hand for a second time zone. The new Northflag, ref. 9140G1A0U, uses 316L stainless steel for its 40mm case and integrated bracelet. The case is 12.7mm thick and 48.8mm lug-to-lug. Compared with the 40 x 13.3 x 50mm of the original North Flag, this new model should be more compatible with smaller wrists thanks to its more compact dimensions. The water resistance is 100 meters, and it has a domed sapphire crystal up front and a display caseback. Inside, and viewable via that display caseback, is Tudor's MT5652-U automatic movement. It's a 4Hz METAS-certified Master Chronometer with a stated accuracy of -0 to +5 seconds/day. For those keeping track, this is the same second time zone-equipped movement found in the Pelagos FXD GMT. Both the date and the GMT function are set via the crown, and adjusting the second time zone is done by jumping the local hour hand to a new time zone (such as when you land at your destination) in standard "flyer" GMT functionality. Like its predecessor, the second-gen Northflag's dial is black, with minimal text an...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
TAG Heuer revisits the Monza Flyback Chronograph with a black-and-red design, forged carbon case, TH20-12 movement, and a $13,400 price.
Monochrome
A celebration of proper independent watchmaking, looking back at the early days of creative thinking, unusual displays and complications that, back then, felt almost rebellious. A best of all we love here at MONOCHROME, served on a platter by the great minds of MB&F;… And at a fairly attainable price, as you’d now expect from […]
Time+Tide
The new M.A.D.Editions M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese might just be the best design the brand has cooked up yet.
Fratello
Ask any watch fan about the different M.A.D.Editions, and you’ll probably hear about the wacky, colorful aspects of the M.A.D.1 or the bonkers and fun modifications to the standard off-the-shelf caliber that powers the watches. For the new M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese, the brand presents a watch that almost looks deceivingly modest. But we all know […] Visit Paying Homage To “The Troublemaker Of Watchmaking” With The M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese to read the full article.
Video
Swiss watch sales keep going down down down, but there is one segment of the watch industry that is booming! I went to find out why.
Hodinkee
Today marks the introduction of the M.A.D.3, the third entry in the MB&F; spinoff, M.A.D.Editions brand. If you've spent the past few years entering raffle after raffle in hopes of securing a watch from the brand, this new design may offer another opportunity in this game of chance. The groundbreaking first entry in the series came from the mind of none other than Max Büsser, and the very different follow-up was spearheaded by prominent watch designer and frequent MB&F; collaborator Eric Giroud. This third edition taps into a watchmaker who, while quite a bit further out from the direct radius of MB&F;, has always maintained a philosophy on the expression of time in a very similar vein. An example of a Corum Golden Bridge. Photo courtesy of Das Kunst- und Auktionshaus Kastern GmbH & Co.KG. Calabrese's Baladin. Photo courtesy Christie's. Vincent Calabrese, though not necessarily a household name like many of his contemporaries, is certainly a legend. He's the man responsible for the iconic floating-movement architecture of the Corum Golden Bridge and the co-founder of the independent watchmaking consortium Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI, as you might more commonly know it). And among the dozens of patents behind his name, and many inventive executions of complications, he's always played with the concept of displaying the time. So I suppose Calabrese and Büsser are a match made in heaven, and here, we have the M.A.D.3 edition in all of its bright, sa...
SJX Watches
More than a decade after unveiling its first in-house minute repeater, Piaget has revived the once-record-setting calibre in a familiar-looking guise. The new Polo Minute Repeater pairs the ultra-thin, micro-rotor cal. 1209P with the modern Polo case and a striking, partially open-worked guilloche dial. Initial thoughts The Polo Minute Repeater is a new watch, but it bears a striking resemblance to the Emperador Coussin of 2013. This isn’t that surprising, since the contemporary Polo — refreshed in 2016 — borrows significantly from the Emperador’s case design. But in this case the similarity is more than skin deep, since the Polo Minute Repeater shares the same movement as its predecessor: the cal. 1209P. This ultra-thin calibre was once the world’s thinnest minute repeater — a title it maintained for three years before the launch of the Bulgari BVL 362, based on a 1980s Gerald Genta calibre. The Polo is big but flat, measuring 48 mm wide but just 9.3 mm thick. The size is partly due to the movement construction, which spreads out the major component groups into two slim planes with the escapement, micro-rotor, and twin minute repeater hammers on on one level, and the racks and centripetal governor on top. This 2010s-era sizing is arguably out of step with current fads where small watches are all the rage, but the watch is elegant and evokes 1970s “jumbo” watches with its wide-but-flat profile. In any case, wearability is probably a moot point considering t...
SJX Watches
Design-forward independent watchmaker Alto has kicked off Geneva Watch Days with its second model, the Art 02. While the most obvious difference is the addition of a matching bracelet, the entire watch has been refined and updated with a smaller case and an upgraded movement. Initial thoughts A dominant trend in independent watchmaking for the past several years has been the veneration of finishing. This focus has given rise to a growing number of overtly traditional time-only watches built and finished to a high standard. Alto belongs a class of design-led independents that promotes a different approach, one focused on how shapes and textures contribute to the wearing experience. This philosophy comes into sharper focus with the brand’s sophomore effort, the Art 02. While visually similar to its predecessor — enough that they would be hard to tell apart by an untrained eye — the Art 02 has been significantly refined and upgraded in several respects. First is the case, which is slightly thicker but much smaller in length and width, and a new proprietary calibre designed specifically for the Art 02. Then there’s the matching titanium bracelet, which is brushed and faceted to create a dazzling display of light and shadow. Surprisingly, the Art 02 is significantly less expensive than its predecessor. In fact, the retail price of €13,100 is just over half that of the Art 01 in “Monochrome Grey.” Considering the new calibre, proprietary bracelet, and similar bill ...
Time+Tide
The young independent brand brings out its second watch with a smaller-sized case and a newly designed integrated bracelet.
SJX Watches
Berneron is following the release of its most complicated model with its simplest: the Mirage Miroir. An inverted variant of the popular Mirage 38, the Miroir flips the script to put the golden calibre on display in lieu of a traditional dial. Initial thoughts I’ve been looking forward to the launch of the Miroir since seeing the 3D-printed plastic prototype earlier this year. The inverted format is not especially new, but the Miroir is probably hitting the trend in stride. Beyond the popularity of the mirrored concept itself, Berneron’s house style for movement finishing suits being put on display. Unfortunately, the inverted format precludes a dial. This isn’t a critique of the Miroir as much as it is a weakness shared across the category. Of course, watches like this exist because for many collectors, the opportunity to see the movement — which in this case offers a rich palette of materials and textures — is preferable to looking at a dial. Rather than expose the relatively uninteresting dial side of the main plate, Berneron has opted for a closed case back, similar to the Montblanc “Unveiled Secret”. This choice gives the compact watch surprising heft and a low-profile feel on the wrist. The Miroir also introduces the brand’s first bracelet, which embodies the same detail-oriented approach to construction that Berneron puts into its watches. I tried on an early example of the bracelet back in April, and even then the quality was obvious — the alterna...
Video
Trigger warning — this one is going to upset a lot of people.Me and Kieron sit down for a brutally honest conversation about the watches that, in our opinion, are the most overrated in the collecting world. Big name...
Fratello
Berneron is back with another Mirage, and this time, the name is quite a literal description. The new Mirage Miroir takes the independent brand’s already unconventional approach to watch design and turns it inward. This watch introduces the new caliber 283, which features a mirrored architecture that transforms it into the dial itself. Available in […] Visit The Movement <i>Is</i> The Dial: The Berneron Mirage Miroir In White And Yellow Gold to read the full article.
Monochrome
A new version of the L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph joins Chopard’s high-end collection, created as a numbered limited edition of 25 pieces. While the model retains the classical proportions and specifications of the green 2023 model, this new reference is distinguished by a rich Prussian Blue dial, retaining the L.U.C 03.07-L calibre with exceptional finishing […]
Time+Tide
TAG Heuer marks the 50th anniversary of the Monza with a limited edition Flyback Chronograph in a 42mm forged carbon case.
Monochrome
Few brands are as intertwined with motorsports as TAG Heuer. Since the early days of the brand, then only known as Heuer, it has always had close ties with racing, predominantly thanks to its excellent mechanical stopwatches. The racing DNA resonates well within multiple collections, such as the iconic Carrera and Monaco. The Monza, however, […]
Monochrome
In the mid-1990s, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele embarked on an ambitious project to elevate Chopard’s watchmaking credentials by establishing an independent manufacturing facility in Fleurier – and succeeded. Following the development of the acclaimed ultra-thin automatic calibre 96.01-L, the manufacture released its first watch in 1997. Bearing the initials of founder Louis-Ulysse Chopard, the L.U.C 1860 launched […]
Video
First impressions matter, but they aren't always the last word. In the watch world, some of the most enduring designs are also among the most divisive. A watch that initially seems too large, too unconventional, or si...
Monochrome
Chopard co-president Karl Friedrich Scheufele resurrected the name Ferdinand Berthoud in 2015. An eminent Swiss horologist who emigrated to Paris in 1745 and gained fame for his precision marine chronometers, Ferdinand Berthoud was given a second lease of life in Scheufele’s hands as an elite haute horlogerie brand that perpetuates the founder’s legacy of chronometric […]
Fratello
I bet that, if given a choice, Murphy Cooper would wear a different watch. In Christopher Nolan’s Interstellar (2014), “Murph” wears a black-dial watch with vintage elements, like cathedral hands, and probably a 42mm case. This gift from her father is pretty similar to the 2019 commercial release. A 38mm watch would fit her wrist […] Visit Murphy Cooper’s Choice: The Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm With A New Blue Dial to read the full article.
Monochrome
Frederique Constant launched its Classics Moneta Moonphase in 2024, a compact and stylish dress watch with a distinctive retro-inspired coin-edge bezel. With a diameter of just 37mm and a slim height of 7.65mm, the watch was enthusiastically received, but because it is powered by a quartz movement, we did not cover it on MONOCHROME. However, […]
Fratello
Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we’re both back in our respective homes before traveling again. Our show is about modern watches destined to become classics. Now, before you accuse us of focusing on money, erase those thoughts! We don’t care about value. No, we are talking about watches that […] Visit Fratello On Air: The Modern Watches Destined To Become Classics to read the full article.
Monochrome
Hamilton’s Murph watch got its popularity almost entirely from its role in Christopher Nolan’s 2014 film Interstellar. The watch created for the film returned as a production model in 2019, first in 42mm, before Hamilton introduced a smaller 38mm version in 2022. This 38mm model has carried different styles, from the original black dial to […]
Video
While it definitely has that mid-century pilot DNA, this $79 Addiesdive watch is scratching that vintage Speedy itch for a fraction of the cost! 37mm case, bubble glass, and a solid workhorse movement.
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