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Fratello Talks: Three Reasons Why You Should Buy A Hublot Fratello
Hublot Hublot has gotten Jun 19, 2025

Fratello Talks: Three Reasons Why You Should Buy A Hublot

Hublot has gotten a pretty bad rap in recent times. The brand is often dismissed as the butt of online commentators’ jokes, but we don’t feel this is entirely fair, so in today’s episode, we’re looking at the other side of things. RJ, Thomas, and Nacho have each whipped up three reasons why you should […] Visit Fratello Talks: Three Reasons Why You Should Buy A Hublot to read the full article.

Grand Seiko SBGM221 GMT Review Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko SBGM221 GMT Review Jun 18, 2025

Grand Seiko SBGM221 GMT Review

The GMT market has changed dramatically in the past seven years. I use that number specifically, because it takes us to 2018, when Tudor brought attainable traveller GMT (independent hour hand functionality) to market in a splashy way. Since then we have seen brands like Longines and Mido continue the work by delivering more options at even better price points. From a general “caller GMT” standpoint, Seiko has knocked it out of the park with models like those within the SSK range. We are living in a GMT moment with more options than ever. But if you took things back just one more year, to 2017, you could argue that it was the year Japan’s Grand Seiko made a mic-dropping value statement by way of the SBGM221, a traveller GMT in a dressier package with elite functionality while delivering value that far outpaces its price point. In 2025, that value proposition has not changed at all. Background:  The DNA of the SBGM221 looks back to the early roots of Grand Seiko in the 1960s to inform its design, but from a modern standpoint more directly can look to the SBGM021 released around 2010. That year is significant because it was the first year the brand arrived in the U.S. market. Aesthetically, the SBGM021 is an illustration of the older style of co-branded Seiko/Grand Seiko fare. Fast forward to 2017, and the watch reaches its completed form. But the 021, with its ivory dial, and general – and honestly quite original – GMT layout is established. You can see the direc...

The Cornell Watch Company Introduces the Lozier, with a Case, Crown, Dial and Hands Made in the United States Worn & Wound
Jun 18, 2025

The Cornell Watch Company Introduces the Lozier, with a Case, Crown, Dial and Hands Made in the United States

Back in February, Alec Dent wrote a story about two new references from Cornell Watch Company, and hinted at a much more significant development a little further down the line. Well, we are now far enough down that proverbial line to see what Cornell has been teasing, not just since their February release, but in conversations with brand founders John and Chrissy Warren going back to at least the summer of last year. Cornell’s initial release, a quite expensive modern interpretation of classic American pocket watches made by the original incarnation of the Cornell Watch Company, was and continues to be a very beautifully made luxury watch. But, as any brand owner will tell you, it’s difficult to run a watch brand based on one single, expensive product. Even more so when that product is produced, as much as possible, here in the United States with an assist from industry legend Roland Murphy at RGM. It’s largely that desire to make something in America that animates Cornell, and it’s led them to their newest offering, the Lozier, a far more affordable watch that can be produced at scale, and is made in partnership with Ohio’s Hour Precision, also profiled recently by Alec Dent. The Lozier is a three-hander designed for everyday wear, and inspired chiefly by watches produced in the first half the 20th century. It’s 37.5mm in diameter and measures 8.5mm tall, including the crystal. One of the most notable design quirks of the watch is the broad 22mm lug width, a d...

Interview - Horologer MING’s Founder Ming Thein on The Past, Present and Future of an Unusual Watch Brand Monochrome
Ming s Founder Ming Thein Jun 18, 2025

Interview - Horologer MING’s Founder Ming Thein on The Past, Present and Future of an Unusual Watch Brand

In a world where the watch industry is often anchored in heritage and tradition, Horloger MING takes a refreshingly modern approach, melding unique aesthetics with a thoughtful design philosophy. At the heart of it all is Ming Thein, photographer, designer and engineer, whose vision has propelled the brand from a bold idea to a cult […]

Hands-On: the Ming 37.02 Ghost (and Some Other Mings too) Worn & Wound
Ming 37.02 Ghost Jun 17, 2025

Hands-On: the Ming 37.02 Ghost (and Some Other Mings too)

Last fall (2024), I felt the itch for something new-that hankering one gets when they just need a new watch. I usually resist, but this time, the fates had a different plan for me. You see, sitting on the forums was an unworn Ming 37.07 Monolith just looking for a good home. I had wanted a Ming for a while, but found myself never in the right place at the right time-or with the right amount of watch-budget when they were released. For a while, in those post-COVID bubble days, Ming’s watches sold out really fast. So, you were either ready at the moment… or not. So, when the 37.07 Monolith, my favorite of the brand’s most recent generation of watches (up until that point), unworn and slightly below retail, was available, I knew I had to go for it. Since its arrival, it has become one of my most frequently worn watches. Not just because it’s new, though that always is a factor, but because there is something wholly different about it from any other watch I’ve owned. It’s modern to the bone-sleek, mysterious, and compelling. The dial defies convention by appearing surfaceless and void-like, without printed or applied markers. It’s minimal yet legible, giving you just enough. And it’s surprisingly comfortable to wear, hugging the wrist with a generously domed profile. But why am I talking about this watch when this article is intended as a review for a different model, the 37.02 Ghost? While different models, they are both part of the 37-series, as are sev...

Introducing - The Bremont Supermarine 500m, now in Stainless Steel Monochrome
Bremont Supermarine 500m now Jun 17, 2025

Introducing - The Bremont Supermarine 500m, now in Stainless Steel

With Davide Cerrato at the helm, British brand Bremont has streamlined its collections into three thematic outdoor arenas: Land (Terra Nova), Sea (Supermarine) and Air (Altitude). Bremont’s Supermarine dive watch collection underwent a radical makeover and resurfaced as the Supermarine 300 in 40mm cases, followed by the formidable Supermarine 500m in larger 43mm cases. First […]

Watches & Wonders Announces 2026 Dates SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Jun 17, 2025

Watches & Wonders Announces 2026 Dates

Anchored by brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Cartier, Watches & Wonders (W&W;) is the world’s biggest luxury watch fair  and it will take place at its traditional time of early spring, April 14-20, 2026, once again at Palexpo. As is now convention, the final three days, April 18-20, will be open to the public, who can access the fair by buying a ticket. The first four days will only be open to invited guests, namely members of the trade, primarily brand executives, retailers, media, as well as select clients. W&W; will also stage events outside Palexpo, the convention centre near the airport, with several events planned in downtown Geneva. In past years, these have included exhibitions, talks, and social gatherings. The exhibitors for 2026 have yet to be announced, but the establishment brands are a certainty, including the brands owned by Richemont like A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin, and the LVMH marques like TAG Heuer and Hublot. There has been talk of brands joining (or returning to) the list of exhibitors – Bulgari was a newcomer in 2025 – but this will soon be known once W&W; publishes the exhibitors directory.  

Orient Bambino Review: Still The Best Watch For $300? Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko SKX’s discontinuation Jun 16, 2025

Orient Bambino Review: Still The Best Watch For $300?

Ah yes, the Orient Bambino. Over the years this is a watch that I have come to appreciate for what it represents to the broader horological universe, but I also respect the way Teddy, the man, and TEDDY, the business, have been able to truly platform this particular model over the years. Some time ago, for another publication, I penned an essay about the Orient Bambino Version 2 – the model with the applied Roman numerals at 40mm. I boldly proclaimed that, in the wake of the Seiko SKX’s discontinuation, that this watch was the new value king - the unsung best buy in truly affordable automatic watches I still believe that, despite the price creeping up a hair over $300 these days. Of course, the SKX did return in the form of the Seiko 5 Sports SKX series that we will be getting our hands on soon enough but the 42.5mm wide and 13.9mm thick case might trim the potential clientele. And it does cost more than the Bambino at $425. Today, we are looking at two iterations of the Orient Bamino starting with the 40mm Bambino v2 in steel, with its white dial and blued hands. I own the edition with rose gold-toned touches. I actually bought it after writing the aforementioned article. And while I do not wear it a ton, it is one of the watches I appreciate most. It’s a sub-$300 watch that looks and feels like something at five times that price tag. I will also be looking at the 38mm version that was introduced last year as part of a trio on bracelet, an addition that gives the ...

The Living Art of the Aballe Horologium Spinale Silver Watch Bracelet Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe Nautilus acts as Jun 16, 2025

The Living Art of the Aballe Horologium Spinale Silver Watch Bracelet

We are all familiar with the concept of a grail piece. That seemingly unobtainable watch that sits saved in our search history, popping up across multiple “For You Pages” because they are always listening, taunting you as a reminder of your horological shortcomings. Well, what happens when you achieve the unthinkable? What happens when you finally have that grail watch? At some point, after swiping the watch from your nightstand and mindlessly throwing it on as you do every day, you are going to find yourself in a room with someone else who has that same quest. Yes, your watch is your watch, and each scratch is yours, and the two watches may have completely different stories. However, for production pieces, the reality is that at some point, it may not feel as unique and exciting as it did back when it sat behind Gorilla Glass. Watch modification comes into play for those special circumstances to set you apart from the select crowd.  That is where this story takes shape. Though, to be fair to the process, it had been in the works for a good while before that, living in the recesses of the artist’s brain. Milestone watches are very real for many people, especially in the financial sector. A signal of status and success, they can help signal trust to a new client while placing you on a tier list of your peers. Think business cards in American Psycho. For many at the higher tier, the Patek Philippe Nautilus acts as a trophy, as it did for Onchain Lifestyle creator GMon...

Hands-On With The New Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver Legacy Edition Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver Legacy Edition Jun 15, 2025

Hands-On With The New Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver Legacy Edition

Admittedly, I didn’t have a retro diver from Girard-Perrergaux on my list of predictions for 2025. Yet, just a month ago, I visited our site, and a bright blue and orange watch was beaming back at me. The Deep Diver Legacy Edition proves that the Swiss brand can still get funky, even if that means […] Visit Hands-On With The New Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver Legacy Edition to read the full article.

Hands-On: the Monta Oceanking Blue Worn & Wound
Omega Aqua Terra alternative Jun 13, 2025

Hands-On: the Monta Oceanking Blue

It has been a while since I last had a Monta watch on my wrist, so it was nice to approach this one with a fresh set of eyes. As one of the longer-standing smaller brands, Monta seems to be a bit of a known quantity at this point. They have very specific targets in both what they offer and their demographic, and seem to nail it almost every time in a very calculated way. Looking for an Omega Aqua Terra alternative for a fraction of the price? Check out the Monta Noble. You have a Rolex GMT Master II on your wishlist but can’t reasonably afford it, and need an alternative option? Well, there’s the Monta Skyquest for you. Thirsty for a Rolex Submariner but only looking to spend about one-third the retail price? Then, chances are good that you have already looked at previous iterations of the Monta Oceanking. I was in that camp almost a decade ago. Staring at older versions of the Aqua Terra online while signing up to be notified of the next restock of Monta Triumph models. No, I wouldn’t consider them one-to-one comparisons, as Monta does inject a bit of their own design language into each piece. However, while so many brands introduce new models year after year, chasing trends and sales, Monta instead takes the approach of refinement. Rather than pumping them out, they take in community feedback, look at their manufacturing capabilities and target price point, and make subtle but meaningful tweaks. That is how we’ve wound up with the Monta Oceanking in its third ver...

Visit: A Look Inside Biver Watches SJX Watches
Blancpain one Jun 13, 2025

Visit: A Look Inside Biver Watches

The day I visited Biver started like any other – with breakfast. But it wasn’t a normal breakfast, because I was seated opposite Jean-Claude Biver, at his own kitchen table. A few days after Watches & Wonders wrapped up I had the opportunity to visit the brand’s atelier in the countryside near Geneva, and I was lucky enough to spend some time with the man himself before he went to the airport; he was headed to Boston to deliver a guest lecture at Harvard Business School. Dismissed in his early career as a ‘nostalgia salesman,’ Mr Biver helped pioneer the contemporary luxury watch industry in the midst of the Quartz Crisis by proving the consumer demand for artisanal mechanical watches. The story is well-known but it bears repeating; Mr Biver, together with his friend Jacques Piguet, head of the esteemed Frederic Piguet manufacture, paid CHF22,000 to buy the rights to a defunct brand from what would later become Swatch Group. Their deft products and marketing made Blancpain one of the stars of the mechanical watch renaissance, allowing the pair to sell the brand back to Swatch a decade later for CHF60 million. From left to right: CEO James Marks, Jean-Claude Biver, and Pierre Biver. Image – Biver The success of Blancpain was extraordinary and helped pave the way for the rebirth of other brands like A. Lange & Söhne. But this was just the opening act. After selling Blancpain back to Swatch, Mr Biver helped put Omega on the wrist of James Bond and transformed Hub...

Watch Out, Chicago! The Windup Watch Fair Returns to The Windy City for 2025 Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Citizen Jun 12, 2025

Watch Out, Chicago! The Windup Watch Fair Returns to The Windy City for 2025

Get ready, Windup Watch Fair fans-we’re headed back to Chicago! Continuing the 10th anniversary tour of Windup, Worn & Wound is thrilled to announce that the Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2025 will take place Friday, July 11th – Sunday, July 13th at Venue West. We’ll be bringing together watch enthusiasts, collectors, and some of the most exciting brands in the industry for a weekend packed with timepieces, community, and hands-on discovery. Windup Watch Fair Chicago Friday, July 11 – Sunday, July 13, 2024 Venue West 221 N Paulina St Chicago, IL 60612 Free and open to the public. For the fourth year in a row, we’re returning to the heart of the West Loop with a strong lineup and fresh programming. Whether you’re a seasoned watch lover or just starting your watch journey, Windup Chicago offers something for everyone. As always, Windup is free and open to the public so bring your friends and family. All are welcome. This year, we’re proud to welcome Atelier Wen, Casio, Christopher Ward, Citizen, and Oris as our Lead Sponsors of the show. These five brands represent the incredible diversity of modern watchmaking-from iconic heritage designs to rugged tool watches, from innovative materials to independent vision. In addition to the bustling show floor, Windup Chicago 2025 will feature exclusive panels, live podcast recordings, and behind-the-scenes conversations with some of the most interesting voices in the watch world. These sessions offer a chance to dive dee...

Tudor Black Bay 54 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Black Bay 54 Review Jun 12, 2025

Tudor Black Bay 54 Review

Making its debut at the 2023 edition of Watches & Wonders, the Tudor Black Bay 54 caused something of a riot with its dead-on vintage reimagining of the Oyster Prince Submariner Reference 7922 from, you guessed it, 1954. Truly, apart from some dial text details and a more contemporary handset, you could easily mistake one for the other from across a room. For fans of historically sized divers, this was pure catnip, without the accompanying headaches associated with vintage watches, most notably, fragility and authenticity. The larger blue Black Bay 58 (left) next to the 37mm Black Bay 54 (right) Getting both the look and a warranty proved to be impossible to resist, leading to waiting lists at ADs and plenty of Instagram FOMO. Let’s face it, many collectors are more attuned to the stylistic path that Tudor has taken in recent memory, with an aesthetic that’s more tool than jewel. The Tudor of yore was a more attainable Rolex, with models like the Tudor Sub nearly identical to the Rolex version, apart from the movement within. But as Rolex has sized up and blinged out, the two corporate siblings’ paths have diverged, with Tudor more than happy to scoop up the business of enthusiasts who prefer a retro feel in their timepieces. Like many armchair super-spies, I’m all-in on a watch that wouldn’t be out of place on Connery’s wrist in Thunderball, despite having never once fired a speargun. So now that the dust has settled and the BB54 has been out in the wild for ...

Seiko Celebrates the 50th Anniversary of Jaws with the Limited Edition SRPL81 Worn & Wound
Seiko Celebrates Jun 12, 2025

Seiko Celebrates the 50th Anniversary of Jaws with the Limited Edition SRPL81

Over the last few weeks there’s been plenty of discussion here, on the podcast, and around the internet on the current viability of Seiko as an enthusiast brand. Seiko, to put it plainly, was once at the center of watch enthusiast culture, and now they are quite simply not. The reasons for that are complicated and deserve close examination, but while we examine the state of Seiko it’s important to remember that the brand is still capable of releasing interesting watches that surprise us and put a smile on our faces, even if the pleasure derived from them is a bit more fleeting than that of an all-time enthusiast classic. Case in point: the new SRPL81, otherwise known as the Jaws 50th Anniversary Limited Edition. Yes, Seiko made a dive watch to celebrate the anniversary of Jaws, a movie that has famously been the root of a fear of the oceans across generations.  There’s little that needs to be said about Jaws that hasn’t been said at this point, right? It’s one of the greatest movies ever made, and a film that should have been impossible to produce, made by a gifted but inexperienced director still in his 20s and shot largely on the water, something which to that point had never really been attempted. Jaws singlehandedly paved the way for the modern blockbuster, upending the traditional release strategy for movies coming out of major studios. It’s still, 50 years later, the ultimate summer movie, and still has the power to frighten us and make us laugh (Hooper ...

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” Worn & Wound
Tudor Introduces Jun 12, 2025

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue”

If you’ve been paying attention to Tudor over the last few years, you know that a key component of their release strategy has been to drop unexpected dial colors into catalog staples at seemingly random intervals throughout the year. We’ve seen this play out with the Black Bay Chronograph multiple times, with pink and blue editions released unexpectedly and quickly allocated to collectors. Today, Tudor is trying something similar with the Black Bay 54, their most compact version of the Black Bay dive watch. The new Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” is more than just a dial variant, as it represents the first expansion of the Black Bay 54 line since it was introduced two years ago with a straightforward black dial. The first follow up after a hit watch is always an interesting bit of trivia for those of us who consider ourselves watch nerds. This release echos the blue dialed version of the Black Bay 58, which was perhaps even more of a sensation than the original when it saw a surprise release in the early days of the pandemic. Until this ywar’s Watches & Wonders, when a red 58 was launched, those two references somewhat surprisingly made up the entire Black Bay 58 collection. Time will tell if Tudor is quicker to produce new variants of the 54, but this version exists as a nice counterpoint to the debut. The “Lagoon Blue” dial has a light, almost turquoise-like tone, along with the familiar Snowflake handset and lume filled hour markers. The dial has what Tudor des...

Hands-On With The Yellow Gold Rolex Perpetual 1908 On The Settimo Bracelet Fratello
Rolex Perpetual 1908 Jun 12, 2025

Hands-On With The Yellow Gold Rolex Perpetual 1908 On The Settimo Bracelet

When we introduced you to the new combination of a Rolex 1908 in yellow gold paired with a Settimo bracelet on April 1st, the price of the full-gold ensemble was CHF 33,400. On that same date, the cost of gold was reported at US$3,120.93 per ounce. As I write this on June 10th, the price […] Visit Hands-On With The Yellow Gold Rolex Perpetual 1908 On The Settimo Bracelet to read the full article.

Konstantin Chaykin Puts on a Masquerade with the Joker Iron and Gold Masks SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Puts Jun 12, 2025

Konstantin Chaykin Puts on a Masquerade with the Joker Iron and Gold Masks

Konstantin Chaykin has introduced two new additions to the Wristmons collection-Joker Iron Mask and Joker Golden Mask. The skeletonized masks don’t conceal much at all, putting the cadrature on full display. Chaykin launched the first “skeleton” Wristmon back in 2021 with the one-off  Martian Tourbillon for Only Watch. The Joker Iron Mask and Joker Golden Mask were teased as early as 2023, but production was delayed by the ambitious Stargazer Wristmon project the same year. Initial Thoughts For better or worse, Konstantin Chaykin isn’t famous for his intricate clocks or creative complications. It was his Joker watches that put him on the map, at least outside of Russia. In a way, these are novelty watches, but Chaykin’s creativity has kept the Joker series relevant far longer than expected, and he’s managed to work some of his most ambitious ideas, like the Stargazer and ThinKing, into the Joker design language. The Iron and Gold Mask watches are austere compared to other entries in the Wristmons series, which makes them a good option for those interested in Chaykin’s work, but themselves a little too serious to wear his more whimsical creations. The openworked dial and retrograde date also add technical appeal that’s lacking on typical wristmons.  The Module Behind the Mask The module is decorated with a traditional frosted finish, applied through sandblasting, inspired by historical pocket watches but with contrasting highly polished bevels for a more...

Summer Vibes from Marseille: Recapping Jacques Bianchi’s Special Showroom Event Worn & Wound
Casio n? Jun 10, 2025

Summer Vibes from Marseille: Recapping Jacques Bianchi’s Special Showroom Event

On Thursday, May 29th, the Windup Watch Shop Showroom in Brooklyn played host to a lively evening that brought the sun-soaked spirit of Marseille straight to New York City. The occasion? A special event with Jacques Bianchi Marseille, celebrating the brand’s official entry into the U.S. market and offering local enthusiasts an exclusive first look at their newest release. Since opening its doors earlier in December of last year within Worn & Wound’s Brooklyn headquarters, the Windup Watch Shop Showroom has become a go-to gathering place for collectors and brands alike. The Jacques Bianchi event was a shining example of what the space is all about: passionate people, hands-on hard-to-find horology, and a strong sense of community. Founded by veteran French watchmaker Jacques Bianchi in the early 1980s, the brand first gained attention with its JB200, a no-nonsense dive watch built for professionals-including members of the French Navy. With its signature silhouette and dial featuring a swimmer motif, the JB200 quickly earned a cult following among those who value both function and flair. Though the brand remained relatively under the radar for decades, its recent revival has reignited global interest, especially among fans of vintage-inspired tool watches with true military provenance. That history was front and center at the event with a full timeline installation, as members of the Jacques Bianchi team shared insight into the brand’s origins, its connection to Med...

Chopard Races Ahead With Two Fresh Mille Miglia Releases Fratello
Chopard Races Ahead Jun 10, 2025

Chopard Races Ahead With Two Fresh Mille Miglia Releases

This year, Chopard celebrates 38 years as the official timekeeper of the Mille Miglia race, in which historic cars will race throughout Italy from June 17th through the 21st. To mark the occasion, the brand will release two limited-edition watches available only in Chopard boutiques. Let’s take a closer look at these two highly different […] Visit Chopard Races Ahead With Two Fresh Mille Miglia Releases to read the full article.

Introducing - The Hautlence Helix; Central Cylindrical Tourbillon and Double Retrograde Display Monochrome
Hautlence Helix Central Cylindrical Tourbillon Jun 10, 2025

Introducing - The Hautlence Helix; Central Cylindrical Tourbillon and Double Retrograde Display

Born in 2004, Hautlence – whose name is an anagram of the Swiss city of Neuchâtel – has had its ups and downs but somehow remained dear to our hearts here at MONOCHROME. Disruptive, built around unusual time displays, housed in bold TV-shaped cases, the brand embarked on a new chapter in 2022 under the […]

Fiona Krüger Introduces the Forget Time Mystery Box Clock SJX Watches
Patek Philippe introduced Jun 9, 2025

Fiona Krüger Introduces the Forget Time Mystery Box Clock

When all eyes were focused on the novelties from the big brands at Watches & Wonders, designer Fiona Krüger was quietly previewing a mysterious clock that questions the nature of time itself. Part haute horlogerie, part objet d’art, the Forget Time clock was developed in collaboration with Denis Flageollet’s clockmaking workshop at the De Bethune manufacture. The concept for the Forget Time clock was inspired by the work of Dr Carlo Rovelli, an Italian theoretical physicist who has written several books about the nature of time. The clock and its movement exist concealed within a wooden cube that’s been embellished with wood marquetry. The mysterious looking box opens at the touch of a button to reveal the clock within. Initial thoughts We’re nearly halfway through 2025, and one of this year’s trends is becoming clear: clocks are having a moment. In just the past month, the Breguet Sympathique No. 1 sold for more than US$6 million, while the almost mythical Cartier Portico Clock No. 3, which recently emerged for the first time in decades, hammered for north of US$4 million. Even Patek Philippe introduced a million-dollar desk clock. And with a certain brand turning 250 years old this year, we might not be done with clocks yet. In this context, the launch of the Forget Time feels opportune, though Dr Rovelli would probably argue this feeling is due to the limits of my own human perception. Such is the inspiration for the clock, which was designed by Ms Kruger and...

Editorial: Urban Jürgensen is Back SJX Watches
Voutilainen Jun 7, 2025

Editorial: Urban Jürgensen is Back

Despite missing the original 2023 target, the revival of Urban Jürgensen has proceeded surprisingly swiftly, especially since the brand is making its debut with three all-new models, including the flagship UJ-1 tourbillon – a substantial achievement in a relatively short period of time. The brand was only acquired at end 2021 by a consortium led by American financier Andrew Rosenfield, which installed Kari Voutilainen at its helm, whose presence explains a great deal of the brand’s momentum and product quality. The impressive UJ-1 movement with a flying tourbillon incorporating a remontoir Mr Voutilainen is now co-chief executive of Urban Jürgensen as well as a shareholder; the watches certainly bear the hallmarks of his work, namely top-class execution. Rosenfield senior’s son, Alex, is fellow co-chief executive primarily focused on crafting the brand’s image, which is a little fresher than the artisanal watches would imply. Now in his seventies, Rosenfield senior is president of Guggenheim Partners, the investment bank and asset manager, but more importantly, a collector of independent watchmaking for several decades. Mr Rosenfield has been a client of Mr Voutilainen’s for many years now, and owns one of the biggest collections of the watchmaker’s timepieces in the world. Andrew Rosenfield. Image – Urban Jürgensen The allure A wealthy, successful individual buying a watch brand is not a novel happening. The allure of owning a prestigious luxury watch mar...

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Worn & Wound
Bulova s MIL-SHIPS Went from Jun 7, 2025

How Bulova’s MIL-SHIPS Went from Top Secret to Top Shelf

In the world of military-issued watches, some models are legendary. Others are ghost stories-rare prototypes whispered about among collectors, their existence confirmed only through archival fragments or the occasional sighting in the wild. The Bulova MIL-SHIPS-W-2181 falls somewhere between the two, and for the first time in decades, one of the few surviving examples is surfacing in public-on the block at Sotheby’s, no less. A Mission-Critical Beginning To understand why this watch matters, you need to rewind to 1955. Amid Cold War tensions and escalating naval operations, the U.S. Navy sought a robust dive watch for its elite underwater teams-specifically, the Underwater Demolition Teams (UDT) and Explosive Ordnance Disposal (EOD) units, the forebears of modern Navy SEALs. The specifications they drafted, known as MIL-SHIPS-W-2181, called for something no commercial watch at the time quite delivered: water resistance beyond 400 feet, excellent night visibility, a highly legible dial, and a locking, unidirectional bezel. The post How Bulova’s MIL-SHIPS Went from Top Secret to Top Shelf appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Zenith Introduces Shadow Versions Of The Defy Extreme Diver And Defy Revival Diver Fratello
Zenith Introduces Shadow Versions Jun 7, 2025

Zenith Introduces Shadow Versions Of The Defy Extreme Diver And Defy Revival Diver

The 600m-water-resistant Defy A3648, known as the Defy Plongeur, was a proper tool watch for professionals when it debuted in 1969. When Zenith launched a Revival version of the A3648 in 2024, brand fans rejoiced. At the same time, the Le Locle-based watchmaker introduced the modern Defy Extreme Diver, a worthy evolution model of the […] Visit Zenith Introduces Shadow Versions Of The Defy Extreme Diver And Defy Revival Diver to read the full article.

The 45 Best Pilot Watches For Every Budget In 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
TAG Heuer Monaco used Jun 7, 2025

The 45 Best Pilot Watches For Every Budget In 2026

Some of the most interesting and coveted watches on the market were designed as tools for professionals in fields that are more exciting than those of the average nine-to-fiver. Divers, race car drivers, and pilots have spurred on many of the most popular tool watch designs on the market today. Take, for example, the Rolex Submariner, designed for divers, the TAG Heuer Monaco, used for auto racing both onscreen and off by Steve McQueen, and the Breitling Navitimer, an aviation icon for decades. More than just jewelry, the timekeepers worn by these professionals, plying trades in which seconds count, were depended upon in some cases to save their lives. Pilots had to rely on their watches for critical information like calculating the distance traveled and the amount of fuel left. However, thanks in large part to digital tech, much has changed, and many great pilot’s watches are now used as heritage-infused time tellers in less austere circumstances, though the watches themselves are still more than capable. But, before we get too far ahead, what do we mean when we talk about pilot’s watches? Today, there’s an entire genre of watches dedicated to aviation. Some are homages to vintage designs, while others are modern variations on those earliest pilot’s watches. Some pilot watches are still tools, and act as backups to onboard instrumentation for professional pilots, while others are simply accessories for frequent fliers. In either case, the pilot watch genre ...

Seiko Introduces the SPB497, a New Limited Edition in the Presage Collection with an Unglazed Porcelain Dial Worn & Wound
Seiko Introduces Jun 6, 2025

Seiko Introduces the SPB497, a New Limited Edition in the Presage Collection with an Unglazed Porcelain Dial

Last week in this space, I wrote about a crop of new Seiko 5 Sports watches more than a little indebted to the classic SKX line of divers, and there was, perhaps, some concern trolling about the current state of the Seiko brand. In my view, there’s no denying that Seiko’s grip on the enthusiast world has loosened a bit when it comes to watches in this genre. There are just so many options these days at competitive price points, brands that are willing to experiment and take risks, and Seiko is a little left behind making watches that are exactly fine but break little new ground, cost more than they did five years ago, and are missing some key features (screw down crowns, etc.) that a certain type of collector insists upon. So that’s the state of affairs with their entry-level sports watches, but of course that’s only a sliver of what Seiko actually produces. Another tentpole of Seiko enthusiasm (though perhaps a bit less widely celebrated) is their Presage line. Seiko Presage watches tend to be dressier pieces that exist to celebrate traditional Japanese craftsmanship and culture. Over the years, a number of watches in the Presage collection have achieved a level of classic status in the enthusiast world (the various “Cocktail Time” watches immediately come to mind). Among my personal favorites in the Presage collection are watches with dials crafted with urushi lacquer and enamel, and earlier this week Seiko announced a reference representing a first for the b...

12 Royal Oak Alternatives For Every Budget Teddy Baldassarre
Audemars Piguet s inarguably iconic Royal Jun 6, 2025

12 Royal Oak Alternatives For Every Budget

So, you love Audemars Piguet’s inarguably iconic Royal Oak, but you are looking for some Royal Oak alternatives that capture the vibe of the watch at a price point that won’t give you night sweats? You and I, my friend, are in the same boat, chugging along the turbulent sea that is modern watch pricing. Recently, it seems that I have set out on a personal renegade mission to target some of the most well-known watch designs of all time, and offer a sampling platter of alternatives that go down a little easier, with price tags that won’t keep you up at night questioning how yourself and your family will ever recover from your watch collecting hobby. Clearly, my next target is the Royal Oak, which just so happens to be one of my favorite watches of all time.  For anyone new here, the rules of the road are as follows: below, I will offer up some watches at various price points, from the extremely affordable (under $200, perhaps) watch alternatives from various brands as bounty. These picks will range from blatant copycats (or homages to the Royal Oak, if you prefer) to other, more wild-card picks that, in my point of view, demonstrate a key ingredient of the design at hand, though it might be less obvious at first glance. In the Royal Oak alternatives recipe, those key ingredients are an integrated bracelet construction (or the appearance of one, with the help of a quick-release strap mechanism), bezels with complex geometry, and an overall feeling of sportiness. Of cou...