Deployant
Review: the new Orient Star M34 F8 Skeleton Hand Wound
Orient Star sent us a loaner for the new M34 F8 Skeleton Hand Winding model. Here is our hands-on review after a month on the wrist.
Results for Dauphine Hands
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Deployant
Time+Tide
The ultimate watch hand style guide
Wondering what the hands on your watch are called? Chances are, we'll have the answer here.The post The ultimate watch hand style guide appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Patek Philippe Just Announced A Whole New Look For Its Three-Hand Calatrava
Syringe hands! Smooth bezel! Black and tan! And a new home for Patek's traditional hobnail decoration.
Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds: The Hottest Green Dial Of 2021
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds with green dial capitalizes on the 2021 green trend and is one of the special watches celebrating the 90-year anniversary of the Reverso. It’s a stunning timepiece with a vintage-inspired dial featuring a lacquered green sunray pattern, faceted hour markers, dauphine-style hands, and a large subsidiary seconds counter at 6 o’clock. Here Bhanu Chopra runs through the reasons for considering a purchase.
Worn & Wound
A Second Look at this Year’s New Rolex Novelties
Editor’s Note: Earlier this week, Rolex held an event in New York City to showcase their latest 2025 releases. We saw most of these watches in Geneva at Watches & Wonders a few months ago, but this was the first time going hands-on with the latest from Rolex for Devin Pennypacker and Garrett Jones. These are their reactions and impressions, as well as a whole bunch of photos (with natural light!) from Garrett. Devin Pennypacker: There is a saying that gets murmured around the start of Watches and Wonders: The show goes as Rolex goes. This year, however, I was left with a feeling that Rolex was chasing trends rather than setting them for the first time in a long while. New announcements saw them leaning into pastel colors, stone dials, and even integrated bracelets to highlight their 2025 collection. To put it mildly, I was disappointed that there wasn’t immediately a model that stuck out to me as a winner of the bunch. That being said, I also didn’t have the opportunity to go hands-on with the new collection, so every thought was mere speculation. During a recent event in New York, I had the chance to spend some time with many of the new releases, form genuine opinions, and model the watches for our photography by Garrett Jones. Afterwards, Garret and I sat down to discuss a few releases we had time with, delivering our thoughts and feelings towards some of the collection, which we will have staggered below. As always, please leave your takes on these new releases ...
SJX Watches
Hand Engraved and Unique, the MB&F; LM Split Escapement “Eddy Jaquet”
MB&F; is well known for its ability to consistently produce timepieces that are as much sculpture as technical marvels. In its latest collaboration, MB&F; leans heavily on the artisanal side of watchmaking, with a dose of literary influence. Executed by the namesake master engraver, the MB&F; Legacy Machine Split Escapement “Eddy Jaquet” is a limited series of eight unique pieces, each depicting a scene from famous novels, ranging from The Three Musketeers to Moby Dick. Initial thoughts The LM SE “Eddy Jaquet” is arguably a true, multifaceted work of art that just happens to be wearable. Mr Jaquet’s work is amongst the best, and the LM SE happens to be a perfect canvas for it thanks to the particular set up of the dial that leaves practically the entire dial disc free for engraving. Making such an ornate watch usually requires compromise in terms of time telling, with watchmakers often favouring an expansive decorated dial over prominent hands. The LM SE somehow manages to keep all of its sub-dials, along with the LM’s trademark exposed balance. These elements do not take away from the centrepiece, which is the engraved dial plate. The elaborate execution of the LM SE comes at a hefty price, CHF158,000, which is almost double the cost of a standard LM SE. A quiet master engraver While not a widely recognised name, Eddy Jaquet was actually one of the original “friends” of MB&F; since the brand’s early days. Back in 2011, he hand-engraved the names of Kari Vout...
Worn & Wound
Micro-Brand Digest: Single Hand Watches, Tough Tools, and a New Take on Solar Power
Welcome to the Worn & Wound Micro-Brand Digest, a semi-monthly roundup of all the new micro-brand news we’re following, from concepts that show promise, to kickstarter launches to restocks, and everything in between. Small independents, and affordable micro-brands spurred the creation of Worn & Wound over 10 years ago, and they still drive our enthusiasm in a big way. Here’s what’s caught our eye this month. If you’ve come across a project, you think qualifies, hit us up at info@wornandwound.com for inclusion. Canister Fieldmaster The Fieldmaster is Canister’s inaugural wristwatch. Its inspiration comes from a career as an active-duty member of the Canadian Armed Forces, and first-hand knowledge of the consequences when tools and equipment fail. As a result, Canister’s aim is to make rugged and dependable tools built for a purpose. As such, the Fieldmaster has been rigorously tested in Brandon, Manitoba, where extreme winter conditions of minus 40 are common, as are 14-hour workdays. The Fieldmaster is made of 316L stainless-steel, has a flat sapphire crystal and a ceramic bezel insert. Powering it is the upscale Miyota 9015 automatic movement and the dial numerals and hands are coated with a generous amount of C3 SuperLumninova. The size is 41mm in diameter, 50mm from lug-to-lug, 12mm thick and its lug width is 20mm. It is also water-resistant to 200m. Three dial colors are available (black, blue, and white) and it comes with a stainless-steel bracelet, a ru...
SJX Watches
Rashid Tsoroev Introduces the Evo Arrow with a Hand-Hammered Dial
Based in the southernmost corner of Russia, Rashid Tsoroev is a watchmaker who got his start in 2019 with fairly simple time-only watches powered by the oversized ETA Unitas calibre. Now Mr Tsoroev has upgraded his work, both stylistically and mechanically, with the debut of the Evo Arrow that is priced affordably at US$5,000. Still a three-hand watch but now equipped with a La Joux-Perret (LJP) automatic, the Evo Arrow sports a hand-hammered brass dial – a technique is sometimes described as tremblage – that he makes himself. Mr Tsoroev relies on suppliers for other components like the case, but he finishes all the components in his own workshop. Initial thoughts Like many independent makers in this price segment, Mr Tsoroev outsources several aspects the watch, but he applies his skill to key aspects, including producing and finishing the dial and hands; this contrasts with brands that merely design and assemble watches. Mr Tsoroev’s attention to detail is admirable, considering the price of the watch. Elements like the font he designed for the watch and the rounded arms of the hands reflect the thought put into the design and execution. Granted, there are constraints imposed by the retail price and presumably Mr Tsoroev’s location (where there are probably no suppliers in a radius of hundreds of kilometres), but the Evo Arrow feels like an honest creation by a craftsman. The only thing I would change is the movement. I would swap the LJP calibre for a Russian ...
Worn & Wound
The Longines Legend Diver is Now Available in a Smaller, 39mm Case
The Longines Legend Diver is a perennial contender insofar as enthusiasts are concerned, and it truly feels like it has always been relevant. Dual crown case, distinctive hands, inner rotating bezel – these have really come to define a model that has become a core of the Longines sport watch lineup. Indeed, it was part of the opening salvo of vintage-inspired tool watches that shifted an entire industry towards that genre over the last decade; in fact there is a non-zero chance the timepiece you are wearing as you read this exists thanks in part to the Legend Diver. Lately the Spirit line has garnered a lot of attention (and for good reason) but Longines has not left its dive watch to languish. After 16(!) long years since Longines reintroduced the model back in 2007, they have refreshed their most famous dive watch. Spoiler alert: there’s a lot to like. Updates to the Legend Diver have been made both inside and out. There’s no need to bury the lede here: the most notable change is that the case has been redesigned and downsized from 42mm to 39mm. More on that in a moment. It still utilizes Longines’ exclusive L888 movement, which is now COSC certified. Longines claims their movements are cased then tested continuously for 15 days across three temperature levels and numerous positions before certification. Another notable change is that the date at 3 o’clock is now nowhere to be found. This is part of Longines’ effort in achieving ISO 6425 certification, whi...
Worn & Wound
Atelier Wen and Revolution Collaborate on a Limited Edition Perception with a Bright Red Dial and Hand Applied Guilloche Pattern
If your particular collecting focus is centered on rising microbrands making affordable integrated bracelet sports watches with dramatic red dials, you have been spoiled for choice recently. It was just yesterday that we brought you news of the Fratello x Straum collaboration, which features a red dial that is literally inspired by volcanic lava, and is about as red as it gets. And today, in what can only be described as a Deep Impact/Armageddon style confluence of good ideas having their moment, we get the new Atelier Wen x Revolution Perception “Xi,” the latest version of the upstart brand’s impressive integrated bracelet sports watch that mixes a familiar platform with traditional Chinese craft techniques. If you haven’t experienced or heard much about the Perception, be sure to check out our prior coverage, which includes a hands on review by Brad Homes here, and a story about a limited edition made in partnership with Wristcheck here. To cut to the chase, though, we’re pretty big fans of the Perception around here. The integrated bracelet sports watch is very close to being completely played out, but Atelier Wen’s late entry into the genre actually feels fresh, and incorporates a unique design language based on Chinese pagodas, in a package that’s lightweight, wearable, and affordable. As well executed as the Perception’s case is, it’s always the dials that seem to generate the most interest when a new Perception is launched, and that’s certain...
Time+Tide
The new Grand Seiko SBGZ009 is a handsomely hand-engraved holy grail
The new Grand Seiko SBGZ009 is a hand-made Micro Artist Studio creation displaying the ultimate finishing of the manufacture. This unofficial sequel to the SBGZ001 is white-birch driven versus snowflake driven. Will GS collectors feel like the SBGZ009 steps on the toes of SBGZ001 owners?. If you’re just starting your journey into Grand Seiko enthusiasm, … ContinuedThe post The new Grand Seiko SBGZ009 is a handsomely hand-engraved holy grail appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
On-Wrist Reaction: Lume Dials and Colorful Hand Crankers
In this episode of On-Wrist Reaction we take a look at 3 very different, and very exciting watches that aren’t afraid to have a little fun. Lume dials might be a little hit or miss, but when they hit, they really hit. Pair a lume dial with the amazing case of this Citizen Promaster Dive and you fall very much on the ‘hit’ side of that equation. We offer our initial impressions on this unexpectedly awesome diver, as well as a popular new release from Meraud, and a trail watch from up and coming brand Circula. Enjoy the full video below and hit the introductions and first looks at these watches after the break. Check out our hands-on look at the Meraud Antigua right here for more details on that watch, which launched last week. This is one of those rare hand-wound chronographs that walks a fine line between heritage inspiration and funky uniqueness and it works all around. If you have any questions or thoughts on these watches that you’d like to see addressed in our reviews, be sure to let us know in the comments. Furthermore, if you have a watch or a piece of gear you’d like to see us react to, please reach out to us at info@wornandwound.com. The post On-Wrist Reaction: Lume Dials and Colorful Hand Crankers appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
A Week in Watches Ep. 36 - AP Does All the Complications, Seiko’s New Movement, & A Charming Hand-Wound Chronograph
Welcome to episode 36 of A Week in Watches! We tackle a packed week of news from the likes of Audemars Piguet, Citizen, Seiko, and the return of Meraud with an incredibly charming chronograph called the Antigua. Audemars Piguet dropped plenty of new watches on the world this week, including their most complicated watch ever, the RD4 in the Code 11:59 body. Read more of our thoughts on the new AP releases right here. Seiko revealed a new movement in a trio of new King Seiko references, as well as a special 110th Anniversary King Seiko with a beautiful geometric brown dial. Finally, we discuss a sophomore release from the brand Meraud, who impressed us with their Antigua, a colorful hand wound chronograph with a rather unexpected movement. You can read more of our thoughts on this watch in this hands-on review. Catch all this and more in the full episode below, and be sure to subscribe for more great watch content. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 36 – AP Does All the Complications, Seiko’s New Movement, & A Charming Hand-Wound Chronograph appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
Omega Introduces the Hand-Wind Speedmaster ’57
A modern take on Omega’s first-ever Speedmaster from 1957, the aptly named Speedmaster ’57 has just been facelifted and upgraded. What was originally a two-counter, automatic chronograph is now a two-counter, manual-wind chronograph. Its aesthetics have been refined, including with a smaller case, coloured dials, and a better bracelet, while the insides have been upgrade with a METAS-certified movement. Initial thoughts While the new Speedmaster ’57 might seem identical to its predecessor that was introduced almost a decade ago, it is entirely different. The latest release retains the same retro style with its “Broad Arrow” hands, straight lugs, and flat-link bracelet, but everything else has been redesigned. Continuing Omega’s stylistic direction for 2022, the new Speedmaster ’57 is offered in bright, metallic-finish dials, including a fashionable olive green. It also encapsulates consumers’ preference for a smaller and thinner case, as well as a quick-adjustment clasp, which will certainly improve wearability. But the biggest surprise comes courtesy of the movement. While the cal. 9300 in the earlier model was automatic, the cal. 9906 in the new model is hand-wind, which results in a slightly thinner case that’s 12.99 mm. With its evocation of vintage chronographs, the hand-wind movement leaves the date feeling somewhat out of place, since it’s a complication traditionally associated with practicality instead of good, old-fashioned aesthetics. At U...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko Turtle vs Bulova Caravelle: Which Affordable Dive Watch Would We Keep?
We've reviewed the Seiko Turtle and Bulova Caravelle Sea Hunter hands-on. Here's which affordable dive watch we'd keep, and why the other fell short.
Fratello
The Kiwame Tokyo Kubo Brings Classic Elegance With A Twist
Kiwame Tokyo continues to deliver watches that punch above their price. The Asakusa, Tokyo-based brand appreciates watches with classic proportions and details, including genuine lacquer. Unsurprisingly, collectors have responded, leading to near-instantaneous sellouts. In July, we previewed the new Kubo series that led to the fervor. Today, we finally have our hands on one of […] Visit The Kiwame Tokyo Kubo Brings Classic Elegance With A Twist to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Bell & Ross BR-03 Space Mission Brings the Earth and Mars to the Wrist
Earth, the Moon, Mars, and a spacecraft… Sounds like Christopher Nolan is cooking up another mind-bending film, but it is actually the new Bell & Ross BR-03 Space Mission. Following the BR-03 Astro from 2025, this new edition has a dial that takes the concept of space-time rather literally. The watch has no conventional hands. […]
Deployant
New: Bell & Ross BR-03 Space Mission
Bell & Ross continues on its space story by announcing the BR-03 Space Mission. This is a followup to the highly popular BR-03 Astro released in 2025. Enclosed in the refined 41mm BR-03 case, the watch swaps out the classical hands for a stunning animation: a deep black aventurine glass acts as the backdrop ofRead More
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Omega Speedmaster vs Christopher Ward C63 Valour: What Makes a Great Chronograph?
We compare the Omega Speedmaster and Christopher Ward C63 Valour hands-on to explore chronograph performance, ownership appeal, and what separates their prices.
SJX Watches
Jaquet Droz Unveils Pièce Unique for TimeForArt
The Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Les Volumes du Temps is a unique watch created for the upcoming TimeForArt charity auction, penned by a student artist at the Académie de Meuron. Its dragging hour and minute discs depart from conventional hands, while the sculptural dial showcases the elaborate enamelling for which Jaquet Droz is known. Jaquet Droz CEO Alain Delamuraz (left) with Fiona Djukanovic (centre) Initial thoughts The Petite Heure Minute Les Volumes du Temps draws on Jaquet Droz’s expertise in métiers d’art, particularly grand feu enamel, to support a worthy cause. It differs from the brand’s familiar format primarily through its dial, designed by Fiona Djukanovic, a student at the Académie de Meuron in Neuchâtel. Its X-shaped composition reveals two apertures, one for the dragging hours and another for the dragging minutes. The display borrows its functionality from the Ophidian Hour introduced last year, with a module fitted to a variant of the familiar Jaquet Droz cal. JD2653. Both the hour and minute discs advance gradually, rather than jumping between numerals. The movement is a descendent of the Frédéric Piguet cal. 1150, a twin-barrel architecture that has provided good service to brands like Blancpain and Urban Jürgensen for nearly 40 years. Beyond this functional change, Ms Djukanovic’s design combines shades of blue with champlevé and flinqué enamel over hand engraving, emphasising the depth and volume of the dial’s architecture. Des...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Casio Duro vs Omega Seamaster: Is a $6k Dive Watch Really Better Than a $50 One?
We compare the $50 Casio Duro and $6,000 Omega Seamaster Diver 300M hands-on to see whether a luxury dive watch is actually better where it matters.
Monochrome
Editorial - Unbroken Chains, or Why Pre-Owned Watches Need More Than “Box and Papers”
Picture a steel Rolex Submariner, sold in the summer of 1968 by a family jeweller in a small European town. The salesperson writes the shop’s name and the date on the papers, slips the receipt into the box, and hands it over. In 1985, a watchmaker replaces the worn bezel during a service and notes […]
Monochrome
First Look - The Raymond Weil Freelancer World-Traveller, For the Brand’s 50th Anniversary
Founded in 1976 by Mr Raymond Weil at the height of the quartz crisis with a mission to produce quality watches at affordable prices, the brand remains family-owned and is now in the hands of the third generation. With CEO Elie Bernheim at the helm, Raymond Weil is enjoying a revival thanks to the successful […]
SJX Watches
World Watch Day 2026: Time as Living Heritage
Today marks the second annual World Watch Day, celebrated on October 10 in a clever nod to the familiar “10:10” depiction of watch hands. This year’s theme, “Time as Living Heritage”, puts the people of Sainte-Croix at the centre of the occasion. A training course at Association Mec-Art Marking the event, our founder SJX participated in a round-table discussion about preserving and passing on the skills of both watchmaking and mechanical art. The panel included De Bethune co-founder Denis Flageollet and automaton maker François Junod, who helped establish the Association Mec-Art, watchmaker Vianney Halter, The 1916 Company’s Tim Mosso, and Karin Alexandrian of the Musée des Arts et Métiers. Europa Star’s Pierre Maillard moderated the conversation. Denis Flageollet of De Bethune co-founded the Association Mec-Art in 2016 with automaton-makers François Junod and Nicolas Court The organisers, Association Mec-Art and the Musée de la Mécanique d’Art et du Patrimoine de Sainte-Croix (MuMAPS), work to safeguard the traditions explored in our earlier story on the unique skills being preserved in Sainte-Croix. These extend beyond watches to music boxes, mechanical singing birds, and automata. Mec-Art helps keep the skills alive through creative projects and practical courses, while MuMAPS is the local museum dedicated to mechanical art and the town’s heritage. The shared challenge is to ensure that future generations can still make and repair these objects, ...
WristBuzz
Chanel and F.P. Journe Just Bought 95% of Ebel for $66.5 Million, and the Industry Is Paying Attention
The cult Swiss watchmaker leaves Movado Group after decades, heading into new hands with serious horological credentials behind them.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko Turtle vs Citizen Promaster NY0040: An Affordable Dive Watch Reality Check
We compare the Seiko Turtle and Citizen Promaster NY0040 after hands-on testing to find out which affordable automatic dive watch delivers more.
Monochrome
First Look - Bell & Ross Goes HUD-Style with the new BR-03 Green Radar Ceramic
For the most part, Bell & Ross watches are immediately recognisable, but the Radar series holds the prize. The concept first appeared in 2010 with the BR-01 Radar, replacing conventional hands with concentric discs inspired by aviation radar screens. A year later, the BR-01 Red Radar added the red-tinted crystal, and the concept returned in […]
Hodinkee
Auctions: Previewing Marteau’s ‘Encore’ And Antiquorum’s Return To New York, Both This Month
The fall auction season is already upon us. Or, I guess you could say, it's been here since the strong showing by Sotheby's in Hong Kong—though that technically ended right before the official start of fall. The Cartier Cheich in white gold (which traded hands among dealers and collectors for a few years at far less than that) sold for $3.4 million, setting a record as the most expensive Cartier and most expensive quartz watch ever sold. Weeks later, if you asked me what this means for the market, I'd probably stare at you blankly. Ben would probably do the same, as he's said on the site that it's just hard to make sense of prices both at retail and at auction anymore. Let's chat about that all first. What The Heck Is Going On With The Market? As we head into the bulk of the auctions, I currently feel far less confident telling you where prices will land. I think most prognosticators—myself included—would say that we have to be nearing the height of the bubble for F.P. Journe and A. Lange & Söhne. But then again, over breakfast the other day, a friend asked if I knew someone who'd want a very historically important watch from a more traditional brand that went underpriced nearly 10 years ago and now was available for double that—into the seven figures. Some things (like that very vague story, probably) make sense; some can leave you scratching your head. European Watch Co. has this Tourbillon Pour le Mérite listed for $1,100,000 right now. There was an interestin...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko Turns the Panda Dial Into a Wild Affordable Chronograph
Seiko turns the panda chronograph into a literal panda with the new limited-edition Pandagraph, complete with ears, fur, and bamboo hands.
Time+Tide
Yema gives the Navygraf a 4.5-billion-year-old meteorite dial
We get hands-on with the Yema Navygraf Meteorite CMM.10, pairing a 39mm titanium case with a striking meteorite dial and manufacture movement.