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Results for The 2017-2022 Vintage Market Boom

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The Business of Watches Podcast: Oris Chief Executive Officer Rolf Studer Hodinkee
Oris Chief Executive Officer Rolf May 6, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Oris Chief Executive Officer Rolf Studer

This week on The Business of Watches, we're in Hölstein, Switzerland, near Basel, at the peach-rose colored headquarters of Oris to talk to Rolf Studer, the brand's Chief Executive Officer. One of the 50 largest Swiss brands by sales, Oris is a true independent, making mechanical watches at fair prices, conveying the brand's unique spirit.  Its history dates back to 1904, with boom times in the 1960s that were kick-started by the tireless legal and lobbying work of Dr. Rolf Portmann, an Oris executive (and honorary chairman today), whose efforts led to overturning the Swiss Watch Statute in 1966 that had prevented Oris and many other brands from using Swiss lever escapements in their watch movements. Oris CEO Rolf Studer. Photo courtesy Oris.  Some 60 years later, Oris is marking that milestone with its Star Edition, an updated version of the Star, the first Oris watch to use a Swiss lever escapement after the law was changed. Portmann and Ulrich Herzog (now the Chairman) went on to lead a management buyout of Oris in 1982, which solidified the company's position as an independent brand. Studer, who has been co-CEO since 2016 and was appointed CEO last month, discusses Oris' positioning and strategy in the current market, where the strong Swiss franc is challenging it and fellow watchmakers. Oris has responded with models that not only offer value to customers but also draw on its storied history and the unique community culture it has fostered. Studer makes the case f...

Introducing - Panerai Gets Technical with the New Submersible GMT PAM01495 Monochrome
Panerai Gets Technical May 5, 2026

Introducing - Panerai Gets Technical with the New Submersible GMT PAM01495

While Panerai strayed on the safe and relatively accessible side of things at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, with historically inspired designs, vintage details, and clean displays (see the Luminor PAM01731 and Luminor Destro PAM01732), the brand’s latest release sits clearly on the other end of the spectrum. Big and bold, highly technical, modern looking […]

Hands-On: The Tudor Monarch Hodinkee
Tudor Monarch It ain't always May 4, 2026

Hands-On: The Tudor Monarch

It ain't always Black Bays and Pelagi at Tudor. At least, not all the time. Since the brand returned to the U.S. market in 2012, Tudor's success has been rooted in the broad appeal of watches like the Heritage Chronograph, the Pelagos, and, of course, the Black Bay. These are heritage-coded, conventional watches that nailed the price point, specs, and aesthetic demanded by the enthusiast market at the time. In the preceding decade, we saw that formula become a playbook as the Pelagos and Black Bay evolved into increasingly specific slices of that original concept. But what about the Tudors that fall outside of the playbook? Remember the North Flag or the Fastrider? What about the Black Bay P01? While the playbook has successfully executed moves for left-side crowns, silver cases, and channel lugs, not all of the brand's explorations into other formats have been smash hits. And it's not merely a question of having a historical footing, sure, the North Flag and Fastrider were quite modern, but the P01 was a functional deep cut from the brand's archives. As a watch brand, a music act, heck, as just about anything in our oh-so-branded world, it can be hard to operate outside of "your lane". That can include what is actually your lane or what has become your lane in the current context of a given brand's media. For 2026 at Watches and Wonders, Tudor stuck to the playbook, offering refinement, additional specs, new bracelets, and the like – except for one watch, the Monarch. A...

The New Spring Novelties from Fears Worn & Wound
Fears Revitalized British brand Fears Apr 27, 2026

The New Spring Novelties from Fears

Revitalized British brand Fears has made many waves in the independent watch scene in recent years, building a reputation for vintage-inspired timepieces backed by robust modern movements, and distinctive styling. Now, Fears releases their first pilot’s watch in 180 years, alongside several new iterations of core collection favorites, to round out a slate of spring novelties that carry forward the brand’s unique combination of youthful innovation and historically-informed aesthetics. First up is that pilot watch: named for Filton, a town neighboring the Fears homebase in Bristol that is largely known for housing the Bristol Aeroplane Company, the Brunswick 40 ‘Filton’ aims to capture the adventurous air of early flight. The Filton sits within the Brunswick 40mm line, giving it a recognizable silhouette with added functionality. A date window at 6 o’clock introduces the complication to the Brunswick 40 line for the first time, and the Raven Black sunburst and Squadron Green gradient dial options evoke cockpit instruments and vintage squadron markings respectively. Applied numerals in Fears’ own ‘Edwin’ typeface hammer home the early 20th century look, with a triangle at 12 o’clock to promote legibility. Sword pipette hands round out the design, with the Raven Black model also featuring a “ghost effect’ with matching black hand centers. Inside, a reliable La Joux-Perret G100 automatic caliber movement beats away, and the Filton sits on a chocolate brown...

First Look - The new Venezianico Arsenale Calendario, An Accessible Take on the Integrated Bracelet Watch Monochrome
Venezianico Arsenale Calendario Apr 27, 2026

First Look - The new Venezianico Arsenale Calendario, An Accessible Take on the Integrated Bracelet Watch

Founded in 2017, Italian brand Venezianico has caught attention with its stylish, well-priced watches that often play around with materials and design. From pieces inspired by Venetian architecture to a recent Redentore with a guilloché pattern depicting the Venetian lagoon’s tides, there is usually a bit of character in what they do. Inspired by the […]

eBay Finds: A Rare Omega Seamaster, a Vintage Hamilton Chronograph, and an Unusual Mystery LED Watch Worn & Wound
Hamilton Chronograph Apr 24, 2026

eBay Finds: A Rare Omega Seamaster, a Vintage Hamilton Chronograph, and an Unusual Mystery LED Watch

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Omega Constellation  To start you off this week with something a little fancy, this vintage Omega Constellation. This one has to be from the late 1970s or early 1980s judging from the design. It has a slim (34mm) square steel case with a square dial and integrated bracelet. It’s not blingy, but I call it fancy because it just has that slim almost 80’s look that just seems….fancy. The silver dial has a vertical texture to it, with slim markers and slimmer hands. The original crystal has a date magnifier for the date window at 3 o’clock. The recessed crown is signed with the Omega logo as it should be. The steel bracelet is also signed and integrated into the case. The caseback medallion is engraved instead of the applied gold one often seen on the Constellations. No movement pictures but it runs well per the seller.  View auction here Vintage LED Watch  It’s been a minute since I found a good LED watch, but this week I found a fun one. This one appears to be unbranded, which is unusual. It has the classic vintage LED space age style case. The case is a good size at 35mm and in nice condition, with sharp edges and original brushed finish. The red LED window is good as...

Introducing: Rado Celebrates Four Decades Of Ceramic With The Integral 40-Year Anniversary Edition Hodinkee
Rolex Apr 22, 2026

Introducing: Rado Celebrates Four Decades Of Ceramic With The Integral 40-Year Anniversary Edition

What We Know Rado is a brand that's synonymous with ceramic. If I think about the brand's catalog, the weird, quirky shapes in glossy blacks and whites are what shine above the rest, both metaphorically and literally speaking. But it speaks to the brand and its long history with the material, 40 years in fact, as well as its share of the ceramic watch market around the sub-ten-thousand-dollar price point. Now, Rado is a curious brand within the Swatch Group, as it's not talked about as much in the United States compared to many of the other brands at its price point. And that's certainly due to America being the brand's smallest market by far. Its nickname of "the Rolex of India" certainly carries some weight, thanks to 42% of its business being in India, the Middle East, and Africa. In India, the most populous country in the world, the market share is a whopping 50% of watches between CHF 1,000 and 3,700 (per the brand). This year marks a big anniversary for Rado, commemorating 40 years since the debut of the Integral, the brand's first watch featuring ceramic. And so this occasion brings forth the Integral 40-Year Anniversary edition, an absolute throwback to the original that retains its very definitely 80s look. Clad in shiny black and gold, it preserves the original design's rectangular case, albeit in slightly larger dimensions each way, with a 28mm width and 39.8mm length. The new Integral 40-Year Anniversary (left) and the original (right). Thanks to the Rado R279 ...

First Look - The New Panerai Luminor PAM01735 and Forged Titanium PAM01629 Monochrome
Panerai Luminor PAM01735 Apr 17, 2026

First Look - The New Panerai Luminor PAM01735 and Forged Titanium PAM01629

The Luminor is in the spotlight this year with several vintage-inspired novelties that celebrate Panerai’s legacy as a supplier of precision instruments to the Italian Navy. Following the first generation of combat diver’s watches in the mid-1930s, glowing with radium-based Radiomir, Panerai developed a less harmful luminous substance known as Luminor, which would eventually denote […]

Introducing - The Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 Gets new Dials Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 Gets Apr 14, 2026

Introducing - The Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 Gets new Dials

The Historiques American 1921 is one of Vacheron Constantin’s most recognisable heritage revivals: a cushion-cased, asymmetrical wristwatch inspired by early-1920s designs. Made for the American market in 1921, the distinctive wristwatch, with its 45-degree-rotated dial and unconventional crown placement, made it practical for motorists who could read the time without taking their hands off the […]

Watches & Wonders: Oris Reintroduces the Star, a True 1960s Throwback Worn & Wound
Oris Reintroduces Apr 14, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Oris Reintroduces the Star, a True 1960s Throwback

One of the most interesting things to observe in recent years among brands that have been around for decades is how they handle reissuing vintage watches from their back catalog. Often, we see releases that seem to have been conceived in a boardroom by bean counters, with a lot of concessions to the original design made for modern consumers. This usually means making watches larger than they need to be, and using newer, higher performance materials when the old fashioned ones would have been just fine. So it’s a real treat when a brand releases a “new” old watch that is about as close to the original as possible.  That’s the vibe we’re getting from the new Oris Star Edition, a mostly faithful interpretation of one of the more important watches in the brand’s history, dating back to the 1960s. The original Star was the brand’s first watch with an in-house lever escapement, something that was only possible thanks to the overturning of the Swiss Watch Statute, a law originally introduced in the 1930s to counter anti competition measures taken by watch manufacturers during the years of the Great Depression. An unintended consequence of the statute was that it limited brands like Oris to using pin-lever escapements. The law was eventually repealed with the help of Rolf Portman, a lawyer employed by Oris and tasked with fighting the statute. Portman is now Oris’ Honorary Chairman.  Here we have a watch that is uncommonly true to the character of its vintage ins...

In-Depth - The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin, with a New In-House Calibre to Fight in the Holy Trinity Sports Watch Battle Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin Apr 14, 2026

In-Depth - The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin, with a New In-House Calibre to Fight in the Holy Trinity Sports Watch Battle

The new Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin 2500V is, without a doubt, one of Vacheron Constantin‘s most important releases of the year, not particularly for commercial reasons, knowing its low availability, but for credibility and relevance in a specific market, that of the high-end, ultra-thin integrated sports watch. Revealed at Watches and Wonders 2026, the model replaces […]

TAG Heuer Rethinks the Chronograph SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Rethinks Apr 13, 2026

TAG Heuer Rethinks the Chronograph

Sure to be among the most talked-about releases of Watches & Wonders, TAG Heuer has just unveiled the Monaco Evergraph. The openworked Monaco marks the debut of the calibre TH-80, one of the most advanced chronograph movements on the market. The Evergraph’s movement is notable for several reasons, but the most surprising is the use of an innovative compliant structure to simplify the chronograph mechanisms. Initial thoughts Beginning with the relaunch of the TH-Carbonspring last year, TAG Heuer has been on something of a road to redemption. Not long ago it seemed like the brand’s brightest days might be behind it, but the Evergraph provides further evidence that TAG Heuer has been retooling to become a new leader in technical innovation. The famous Breitling-Heuer-Buren Calibre 11 - one of the first automatic chronograph movements to hit the market back in 1969 - debuted in a Monaco, and so it’s fitting that the new TH-80 movement is first glimpsed through the transparent dial of the Monaco Evergraph. In more ways than one, the Evergraph pays proper hommage to original Heuer Monaco while remaining decidedly future-oriented.  It is also great to see the TH-Carbonspring literally front and centre on the dial side, proof that TAG Heuer is finally delivering on the promise of carbon hairspring industrialisation.  Even before digressing into the distinctive mechanics of the new cal. TH80-00, any chronograph aficionado will greatly appreciate the particular crown and...

eBay Finds: A Vintage Omega Constellation, Some Funky Vintage Seikos, and a Hamilton in Great Condition Worn & Wound
Hamilton Apr 10, 2026

eBay Finds: A Vintage Omega Constellation, Some Funky Vintage Seikos, and a Hamilton in Great Condition

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Omega Constellation  First up this week is a nice vintage Omega Constellation. Now, this isn’t the more well known pie-pan version, but it’s still a stunning piece made with the same attention to detail. This is a later 1960s version, with a large “C” style case that is in excellent condition. Nice crisp edges with the original brushed and polished finish. The caseback observatory medallion is not an added gold piece, but rather engraved directly into the steel back. The crown is signed and looks correct. The dial has a beautiful cross-hatch linen texture to it, with thin stick markers and stick hands. There is a day/date window at three o’clock. Dial looks clean and original. The watch comes on the original brick link bracelet, although one of the links is broken and it will need repair. No movement picture but the watch runs per the seller.  View auction here Seiko JDM Sport Diver   Here’s a great Seiko diver that is a modern re-issue of a vintage model. In the late 1990s Seiko did a series of Sport Diver re-issues with modern specs and movements. These are a great way to have that vintage vibe but not have to worry about babying the watch. This one has a tonneau shaped...

Furlan Marri Introduces The New Meteorite - A Cosmic Twist On An Old Favorite Fratello
Furlan Marri Introduces Apr 10, 2026

Furlan Marri Introduces The New Meteorite - A Cosmic Twist On An Old Favorite

Furlan Marri has built its reputation by offering faithful mid-century design with exceptional detail. The price remains approachable for most watch enthusiasts. If not handled carefully, this could seem like a cheap trick. However, when vintage details are applied with care and the materials nod gracefully to modernity, the result can be a true knockout. […] Visit Furlan Marri Introduces The New Meteorite - A Cosmic Twist On An Old Favorite to read the full article.

Introducing - The New Norqain Wild One Skeleton Chrono Monochrome
Norqain Wild One Skeleton Chrono Apr 8, 2026

Introducing - The New Norqain Wild One Skeleton Chrono

Norqain’s Wild One high-performance sports watch collection was developed with input from industry maverick Jean-Claude Biver. Launched in 2022, it introduced the brand’s proprietary Norteq material, a carbon fibre composite six times lighter than steel and 3.5 times lighter than titanium. Launching at Watches & Wonders 2026, Norqain unveils the Wild One Skeleton Chrono with […]

The Hamilton Fontainebleau “Day ‘N Date” 6004:  The Potential Catalyst for an Innovative Case Design Renaissance Worn & Wound
Hamilton Fontainebleau “Day ‘N Date” Apr 7, 2026

The Hamilton Fontainebleau “Day ‘N Date” 6004: The Potential Catalyst for an Innovative Case Design Renaissance

I feel that the contemporary watch market has a noticeable lack of fun, exciting, and unique watch case designs. Brands have put a major emphasis on dials made from rare materials or composed of intricate designs recently, but very few companies have put time into producing cases that offer a special experience for the wearer. Round and tank-styled timepieces are, and will forever be, the norm within the watch industry. However, this gap in the modern market gives collectors a chance to look back into vintage catalogs to familiarize themselves with fads and stylistic ventures of previous horological eras. With this in mind, I’d like to take a trip back to 1968 and examine the creation of the Hamilton Fontainebleau series, specifically the 6004 “Day ‘N Date” reference, to exhibit just how innovative case design can truly be. It’s typically an overlooked piece of the design formula, but when a watch features a case profile unlike any other, it certainly stands out among the pack. A Brief History of Fontainebleau and the 6004 In 1966, the patents for Hamilton designer Ulrich Nydegger’s new case were published. A couple of years later, the first few Fontainebleau models hit the market and garnered a decent amount of popularity. It wasn’t until 1969’s Fontainebleau Chrono-Matic chronograph, however, that the line would see a substantial amount of press and recognition for its innovative design. The collectibility of the Chrono-Matic model continues to increase o...

Anton Suhanov Returns with the Flamingo SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey s watches Apr 7, 2026

Anton Suhanov Returns with the Flamingo

Russian independent watchmaker and ACHI member Anton Suhanov returns with his third wristwatch, the dynamic Flamingo. Featuring Mr Suhanov’s first in-house movement, the Flamingo positions its massive balance wheel dial-side, and has a few other tricks up its sleeve as well.  Initial thoughts Anton Suhanov made a name for himself for his inventive clocks, but more recently has turned his attention toward the more lucrative wristwatch market. Mr Suhanov’s first two wristwatches were modular constructions piggybacked on stock movements. Despite this common approach, his modifications were transformative, making his movements feel more personal and “in-house” than some truly in-house movements that are more traditional in concept. This evident commitment to the craft quickly gained Mr Suhanov a good reputation.    After about four years of development, Mr Suhanov has unveiled a calibre he can truly call his own, the cal. Su26.1L. He built the movement from scratch, which gave him complete freedom both in terms of design and functionality. The result is a movement that possesses a number of unique and charming traits, both technical and aesthetic in nature.  While the design of the Flamingo as a whole is deeply original (especially the use of non-functional ruby pallets for the hands), some elements on the dial side remind me of similar features of Greubel Forsey’s watches. For example, the two small sub-dials - a 24-hour indicator and small seconds - are rem...

Hands-On: the Wolbrook JetFlyer and the New Jeambrun PS6402 Automatic Chronograph Caliber Worn & Wound
Ming it’s mechanical Apr 6, 2026

Hands-On: the Wolbrook JetFlyer and the New Jeambrun PS6402 Automatic Chronograph Caliber

I’d like to think I am a bit of a movement nerd. Not in the sense of knowing all of the technical attributes (actually, I wish I knew more there), but rather about what movements are on the market from the major suppliers. Hand me a watch, even with a complication, and I can probably tell you what movement it has in a matter of seconds (assuming it’s mechanical) by the positioning of the hands, complications, rotor bearing, etc. So, last fall, when I was handed a prototype of a new chronograph by Wolbrook and, upon seeing the dial, realized I had no idea what movement it had, my interest was piqued. The watch was the Wolbrook Jetflyer, which I have since had the opportunity to spend more time with. An extension of the French brand’s proven line of tool dive watches based on vintage models, the Jetflyer is their first foray into mechanical chronographs. As the name suggests, the Jetflyer is not meant as a “dive” chronograph, but rather as a pilot’s, though that’s largely semantics, as there are a lot of overlaps in design language (and the WR is 100m). I’ll get back to the particulars of the design, because what really stands out is the movement. $845 Hands-On: the Wolbrook JetFlyer and the New Jeambrun PS6402 Automatic Chronograph Caliber Case Stainless Steel Movement Jeambrun PS 6402 Dial Mattte Black Lume X1 Super-Luminova Lens Domed Sapphire Strap Leather or Bracelet Water Resistance 100m Dimensions 38 x 46mm Thickness 14.3mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw-d...

Introducing - The New Hautlence Sphere Series 4 Monochrome
Hautlence Sphere Series 4 Since Apr 6, 2026

Introducing - The New Hautlence Sphere Series 4

Since its recent revival under the MELB Group (owner of Moser and Agenhor too), Hautlence has focused on unconventional time displays with mechanical animation rather than traditional indications. The Sphere, first introduced in 2022, quickly became the brand’s signature series, combining a multi-axis spherical jumping hour with a retrograde minute. The new Sphere Series 4 […]