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Breitling Premier B15 Duograph Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Breitling Premier B15 Duograph Hands-on Dec 2, 2021

Breitling Premier B15 Duograph Hands-on Review

What we love: Split Second Complication with 100m WR- Yes please!Open caseback displaying manual winding movement Beautifully laid out dial  What we don’t love: Thickness, some may find this hard to wear under the cuff Could do without cutout numbers on the dial (2,4,8 and 10)Due to the design of the top sapphire crystal glass, cannot see the tachymeter scale properly when looking directly at the dial  Overall rating: 8.125/10 Value for money: 8/10 Wearability: 7.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 It’s not often you get a watch for a review and fall in love with it straight away! Well, for me this was the case with the new Breitling Premier B15 Duograph. Released a day earlier than the Watches of Wonders in 2021, Duograph is a part of the Premier heritage line. Originally released in 1943, Duograph is a spilt second complication that pays tribute to three generations of inventors – Léon, Gaston & Willy Breitling. Breitling used the term ‘Duograph’ in 1940 which refer to the complication “Chronograph Rattrappante”. Design: Breitling Duograph is offered in stainless steel or an 18K Red Gold case. The case size is 42mm with a thickness of 15.3mm and lug to lug measurement of 50mm. The variant we are reviewing today is the stainless steel model with the sunray blue dial.  Duograph had a fixed bezel and the Cambered sapphire (glareproofed both sides) acts as a bezel on its own. This Sapphire crystal top glass has a thickness of 3mm which adds to the o...

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Three Vintage Watches Worth Knowing About at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 3448 Nov 20, 2021

Three Vintage Watches Worth Knowing About at Phillips Hong Kong

Independent watchmaking may be the flavour du jour at auctions now, but there are still vintage watches worth paying attention to. Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong sale includes three of them, including an impressively crisp Rolex Daytona “John Player Special” (above) as well as the unique Patek Philippe ref. 3448 in platinum with sapphire hour markers – both of which will be million-dollar watches in US dollar terms (or ten-million dollars in Hong Kong currency). The last watch of the trio, a 1930s Tank Cintree in white gold, is the most elegant. And its seemingly new condition merits reflection: what is a skilfully and sympathetically restored watch worth? The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIII takes place on November 25 (for lots 801-852) and November 26 (lots 853-1106). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available on Phillips.com. Lot 819 – Rolex Daytona ref. 6241 “JPS” With the market for vintage sports watches having plateaued since it peaked in 2018 and 2019, prices have mostly softened across the board. That said, a handful of models still achieve impressive prices, most notably the Rolex Daytona “John Player Special”, or “JPS” for short. That’s because the solid-gold, manual-wind Daytona is an intrinsically rare watch – it is estimated that a few hundred exist as opposed to thousands in steel – and even less common with the “JPS” dial. Perhaps the most striking version of the “Paul Newman” Daytona, the “JPS” nickna...

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Blancpain Introduces the Air Command Chronograph in Titanium SJX Watches
Blancpain Introduces Nov 15, 2021

Blancpain Introduces the Air Command Chronograph in Titanium

Resurrected two years ago with modern materials and tech, the Air Command was originally a 1950s wristwatch reputedly created for the US Air Force that was never serially produced, resulting in just a dozen examples made. With the success of the vintage-looking 2019 remake, Blancpain has followed up with the regular-production Air Command Flyback Chronograph in a modern palette, with a blue dial and a case in either titanium or red gold. Initial thoughts The Air Command reissue of 2019 was a hit. The 500-piece run sold out quickly and and now sells for slightly above the original retail price – a feat for a modern-day Blancpain. Unsurprisingly, Blancpain has stuck to the same successful formula with the new Air Command, which retains the same case and design, but manages to look quite different (and will no doubt feel different thanks to the case metal). The dial is finished with a “sunburst” brushing that gives it a metallic glint With its livelier colours, the latest version is arguably more striking than the original remake. At the same time, it avoids the pitfall of trying too hard to look vintage, as was arguably the case with the original limited edition. And the gold version makes sense as well. The Air Command is clearly a luxury-sports watch rather than a military-issue instrument, so 18k gold feels right at home with the design. For those who find titanium too dull or too affordable, the gold version is certainly the one to go for. Notably, Blancpain has...

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Quick takes: new Breitling Premier B15 Duograph 42 Deployant
Breitling Premier B15 Duograph 42 Oct 30, 2021

Quick takes: new Breitling Premier B15 Duograph 42

The Breitling Premier B15 Duograph is Breitling’s take on a split second chronograph with a center monopusher. Featuring rectangular chronograph pushers and Arabic numerals, the heritage-revived Premier Duograph displays a variety of details such as grooves on the case-sides, open sapphire casebacks and syringe hands. The Duograph comes in stainless steel with a blue dial or in 18k red gold with a black dial.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Burgundy Red Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Burgundy Red Oct 26, 2021

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Burgundy Red Hands-on Review

Pros: Two watches in oneBurgundy Red dial and Rose gold case is a fantastic comboGood size Reverso may suit most wrists Cons: Some may find it to be expensiveLimited edition and boutique only – can be difficult to come byThe rectangular case may not suit all wrists Over All Rating: 8.6/10 Value for money – 7.5/10Wearability – 9/10Design – 9/10Build Quality – 9/10 I’m quite sure that we all know the story of how the Reverso came about quite well by now. If not, where have you been the last couple of decades? Even though it has been around since 1931, the watch did disappear from the range for a little while, before being resurrected in 1972 by an Italian watch dealer, Giorgio Corvo, who bought up the remaining Reverso cases (around 200) and sold them all in Italy after fitting them with a movement. Convinced that the range will sell, he persuaded Jaeger-LeCoultre to revive the range in the 80s. Fast forward to 1991, on the 60th anniversary of the Reverso, various complications were introduced in the watch. This was no small feat as there is a lot less room inside the rectangular case, and therefore being able to squeeze in complications meant that Jaeger-LeCoultre has had to overcome many obstacles. We may take a two-faced Reverso for granted these days, but even that requires years of development to achieve. This brings us to the watch today, one of the 90th-anniversary models, and quite possibly one of the prettiest, most elegant and stunning Reverso ever to g...

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INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGY008 offers a subtle masterclass in the use of diamonds Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGY008 offers Oct 17, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGY008 offers a subtle masterclass in the use of diamonds

Many of Grand Seiko’s latest offerings have sought to transfer the beauty of the environment to our wrists. By using the elements seen around their design studios as inspiration, they’ve created ethereally beautiful models such as the SLGH005 “White Birch” and the Four Seasons collection. With one of their latest creations, the brand has struck … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGY008 offers a subtle masterclass in the use of diamonds appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Patek Philippe Introduces the Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204R SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Oct 14, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204R

A variant of a longstanding reference in the Patek Philippe catalogue, the Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204R-011 is only set apart by its slate-grey dial, but unusual nonetheless – it’s the sole model in Patek Philippe’s Grand Complications collection in that colour, where the predominant colours are silver, blue, black, and a splash of salmon. Initial thoughts Historically the split-seconds seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar in gold was often paired with a silver dial. But as the new World Time Chronograph ref. 5930P illustrates, Patek Philippe is continuing to add new colours into the regular catalogue, instead of reserving them for limited editions or special orders. The rose gold version of this reference is already available with a black dial as the ref. 5204/1R, but matched with a weighty and flashy rose gold bracelet. The new ref. 5204R in contrast is a relatively low key watch, which will appeal to anyone who wants a “Grand Complication” that’s, well, low key. The colour palette of the new ref. 5204R is a familiar because it works well. This makes the ref. 5204R the most appealing version of the model currently available; it is certainly more striking than the conservative model with a silver dial. That said, I do wish Patek had taken the opportunity to redesign the dial slightly, perhaps with slimmer hands and a moon phase display on the top of the lower register. As it is, the moon phase display leaves the dial bottom he...

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Nomos Debuts the Zürich Worldtimer Limited Edition Singapore 2021 SJX Watches
Nomos Debuts Oct 8, 2021

Nomos Debuts the Zürich Worldtimer Limited Edition Singapore 2021

Nomos releases retailer-specific limited editions on a regular basis, and the latest addition to that lineup is the Zürich Worldtimer Limited Edition Singapore 2021, a 50-piece run for Singapore retailer The Hour Glass. Based on the Zürich Weltzeit, the Singapore edition has a yellow gold-plated dial with a grained finish, matched with blued hands, as well as the city state in red on the world time ring. Initial thoughts Retailer editions are a Nomos favourite – just last month it was the turn of Amsterdam-based Ace Jewelers – so there really are a lot of them, reducing the novelty of the idea. That said, it is often such limited editions that are the most interesting in terms of colour palette, making them far more compelling than the standard Nomos offerings. That’s the case with the new Singapore edition, which is dressed in a colour and finish not usually found on Nomos watches. While the design remains distinctly Nomos, the livery gives the watch a slightly more striking appearance than the typical Nomos, which tend toward a more muted appearance. Colour aside, the Singapore edition has all the strengths and weakness of the standard version. The strengths are primarily the easy-to-operate world time as well as attractive movement, while the weaknesses are the long lugs and the small font for the world time display. Gilt and blue Besides the gilded finish that’s unusual for Nomos, the dial of the Singapore edition also has a granular texture that’s more p...

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Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon With Three Flying Bridges: An Icon Zooms In The Partnership With Aston Martin Quill & Pad
Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon Oct 2, 2021

Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon With Three Flying Bridges: An Icon Zooms In The Partnership With Aston Martin

Earlier in 2021, Girard-Perregaux surprisingly announced a new partnership with luxury carmaker Aston Martin and quickly released the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Aston Martin in blackened titanium. During Geneva Watch Days, Girard-Perregaux introduced a pink gold variation in celebration of the brand’s 230th anniversary that took Elizabeth Doerr's breath away with its transparency, technicity, and sheer beauty.

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Inside The Manufacture: A Two-Day Visit To Chopard Hodinkee
Chopard Chopard Sep 29, 2021

Inside The Manufacture: A Two-Day Visit To Chopard

Chopard is one of the few brands out there that can boast both being independent and having a storied history, but many watch enthusiasts don't realize that Chopard is producing truly in-house movements to an extremely high level in the hills of Fleurier while also making its own cases and smelting its own gold back in Geneva. There are actually three facilities across Switzerland that make up the Chopard manufacture family and here we take you on a tour through all three.

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Panerai Debuts a Smartly Minimalist Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
Panerai Debuts Sep 7, 2021

Panerai Debuts a Smartly Minimalist Perpetual Calendar

Following the recent return of platinum to Panerai’s line up, the brand is continuing with precious metals, but this time with a far more elaborate movement boasting a perpetual calendar and GMT. Despite its complications, the Luminor Perpetual Calendar – available as the Goldtech PAM 742 or Platinumtech PAM 715 – is smartly designed, with a clean dial that’s typical of Panerai, clean enough it resembles as a day-date Panerai at a glance. Initial thoughts Arriving in a Panerai wristwatch for the very first time (though there was the co-branded Panerai-Ferrari FER015 of 2007), the perpetual calendar was only incorporated in one other Panerai timepiece, the uber-complicated planetarium clock made in 2014 to commemorate Gallileo Galilei. While simpler, the perpetual calendar wristwatch doesn’t disappoint, with its concise calendar display. While the complication is now common, few brands can boast calendar displays that are both distinctive and legible – Moser being one of the few. Perhaps more important for Panerai than any other brand, given the simplicity of its trademark design, the streamlined display means the Luminor Perpetual Calendar still looks very much like a typical Panerai. Unlike the recent time-only Platinumtech Luminor with blue hands, the Perpetual Calendar has pink gold hands that blend into the olive background better As the dial being the familiar Panerai design, it falls to the case materials to distinguish Luminor Perpetual from the...

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Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Introduces Sep 4, 2021

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges

Invented in 1860, the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges is synonymous with Girard-Perregaux, a design unique and impressive enough it remains the watchmaker’s flagship movement after some one and a half centuries. Since its modern-day revival in 1981, the triple-bridge tourbillon has evolved to keep up with contemporary tastes, leading to variants like the Neo Bridges, which has sleek, arched bridges. Earlier this year, Girard-Perregaux unveiled the latest form of the Three Bridges, which does away with the base plate altogether, resulting in a floating, see-through movement. Now the brand has finally unveiled the luxe version of the watch, made even more striking in pink gold and black –  the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges. Initial thoughts My opinion of the most recent iterations of the Three Bridges have been lukewarm, as I find the reworked designs tend to blur the original identity of the movement – the designs attempt modernity but don’t quite make it – but latest version changed my mind. The Flying Bridges is clean and streamlined, creating in a magnificent, unobscured view of its mechanics, one that’s enhanced with the right choice of colour and architecture. And the Flying Bridges is an interesting watch from a technical standpoint. The parts that make up the timekeeping train – barrel, gear train, and tourbillon-regulator – are arranged linearly and vertically, as the historical Three Bridges was. But now they supported by three horizon...

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IWC to Keep Time on First All-Civilian Space Flight SJX Watches
IWC Aug 27, 2021

IWC to Keep Time on First All-Civilian Space Flight

Slated to be the first space flight with an entirely civilian crew, Inspiration4 take off in September 2021 for a three-day orbit of Earth. Operated by SpaceX, the space travel company founded by Elon Musk, the mission will keep time with the help of IWC, which has created the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Inspiration4” for the four-person crew. Featuring white ceramic cases and blue-lacquered dials, the four watches will be sold at auction after the space flight, with proceeds going to St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital, a paediatric hospital funded by donations that treats severely ill children and teenagers for free. Initial thoughts Being four watches that will be sold to benefit a good cause, the Inspiration4 chronographs are certainly a good thing. It helps that the design is appealing. Though the overarching elements of the watch are familiar – white ceramic and blue – they are combined in a novel manner for IWC. Both the star-speckled dial and white ceramic case are unique in the IWC line up. But the fact that these four are the first-ever Pilot’s watches in white ceramic (aside from prototypes from two decades ago) probably hints at something similar in the pipeline. If, and when, such a watch does emerge, I hope the production version will be smaller than the 44.5 mm that the Inspiration4 is, though that’s unlikely since the ceramic chronographs are all that size. Four travellers The four watches have been made for the crew of Inspiratio...

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