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New: De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon
De Bethune presents the DB28 Steel Wheels now equipped with a tourbillon. The movement’s delta bridge and two barrel covers are made of sapphire crystal.
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Deployant
De Bethune presents the DB28 Steel Wheels now equipped with a tourbillon. The movement’s delta bridge and two barrel covers are made of sapphire crystal.
SJX Watches
Endowed with an unmistakable aesthetic, the Breguet Tradition is based on the souscription calibre made by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1796. Arguably the pioneer with the open-dial design that exposes the movement, the Tradition’s construction allows for creativity even with basic complications, like a retrograde seconds for instance. The new Tradition Quantième Retrograde 7597 continues with the overarching theme of the line. Based on the Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097, the 7597 does away with the seconds display and instead installed an oversized retrograde date complication. Initial thoughts I find the Tradition aesthetic unique and charming, thanks to the characteristic, exposed movement construction that can seem haphazardly arranged at times. Despite the angular and geometric shapes of the bridges, most of them are trapezoidal in shape with few parallel edges, bestowing a more organic appearance to the highly mechanical appearance. While a conventional date window is mundane, the retrograde date elevates the complication both visually and mechanically. Retrograde displays are often encountered in Breguet watches – something that started with A.-L. Breguet himself – and are typically done well, both stylistically and technically. The Tradition 7597 is, in short, an attractively designed watch that sticks to Breguet’s tradition strengths in design and mechanics, while offering a useful complication executed in an elegant manner. Tradition restyled The 759...
Quill & Pad
'The Millennium Watch Book' is a coffee-table publication looking back over the watch industry’s triumphs between 2000 and 2020. It’s likely to be interesting for both watch enthusiasts and newbies; everyone is certain to enjoy looking back on these ticking memories of the last 20 years of watchmaking.
Hodinkee
A new limited-edition Submersible with a black dial and blue ceramic bezel insert.
SJX Watches
Longines’ momentum with retro timepieces continues with the new Heritage Military Marine Nationale. The new remake is clean and legible, just like its inspiration, which was made for the French Navy in 1947. The vintage original, the ref. 5774, was an instrument for shallow diving – albeit one without the familiar rotating bezel of a diver’s watch that wouldn’t be invented until the 1950s. Consequently, it was a clean and legible watch, and so does the vintage reissue. Initial thoughts The Marine Nationale recreates the feel of the original quite well, despite being substantially larger. That’s accomplished by retaining the proportions of the original, as well as smaller but important details, like the shape of the seconds hand and the vintage logo on the dial. And thankfully there is no date to ruin the symmetrical dial. Like most of Longines’ other remakes, the appeal of the Marine Nationale lies in its affordable price of US$2,000, which is strong value especially given the upgraded ETA movement within. The only weakness of the Marine Nationale – especially given it is a remake of a dive watch – is the minimal water resistance of just 30 m. Subtle reworking At 38.5 mm wide, the Marine Nationale is relatively small by modern standards, even though it has been significantly enlarged from its original’s 33 mm diameter. That said, the size of the remake is good, especially coupled with the relatively thick case, which preserves the proportions of the ori...
Revolution
De Bethune introduces the DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon, a new take on the DB28 Steel Wheels with its delta bridge and two barrel covers made of blue sapphire crystal.
Hodinkee
A trio of lightweight additions to Bulgari's collection of contemporary sport watches.
SJX Watches
A member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) since its founding in 1985, Bernhard Lederer is a veteran of independent watchmaking. Though known amongst collectors for having founded the brand BLU in 2002, Mr Lederer is more of a watchmaker’s watchmaker, supplying movements and complications via his company MHM (short for “Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie et Micromécanique”). Born in Germany but based in Switzerland for decades, Mr Lederer’s technical prowess is on full view with his latest creation – the Central Impulse Chronometer (CIC). Seemingly a mere three-hand wristwatch on the front, the CIC is a actually a significant accomplishment – and undoubtedly one of the most notable watches of 2020 from a technical perspective. The movement is equipped with a natural escapements as well as dual gear trains. The construction is familiar – Mr Lederer describes it as a tribute to the late George Daniels and his landmark Space Traveller pocket watch – but improved and refined with the addition a remontoir d’egalité constant force mechanism for each going train. Initial thoughts With seemingly everything already having been done in watchmaking, it is not often that we encounter a genuinely interesting – and improved – twist to an already uncommon escapement. Here Mr Lederer rejuvenates the centuries-old idea of the natural escapement, but elevated by the added complexity and performance gains of twin remontoir going tr...
WatchAdvice
Simplicity is complexity On August 25th, 2020, Ulysse Nardin unveiled their latest timepiece. A timepiece that is bound to send shockwaves throughout the watchmaking world. The Ulysse Nardin Blast comes as part of the brand’s executive collection, which features audacious timepieces that cement Ulysse Nardin’s legacy as a permanent innovator. You can check out the brand’s website here and find where you can see these amazing timepieces in person here. According to Ulysse Nardin, the Blast was created by drawing inspiration from a variety of sources. From fire and ice, magma and glaciers, violent lava eruptions and cascading ice shelves to mechanical, aeronautical marvels of fighter jets and stealth aircraft. Just as incredible and powerful as earth and mother nature is with its wild extremities, the Ulysse Nardin Blast is comparatively a potent force in the watchmaking world. This technological wonder has a masculine design, from different shapes and sharp lines to an open-worked dial that is finished off with a tourbillon. To encompass this latest creation, Ulysse Nardin is partnering up with Carsten Peter, a World Press Photo award winner who photographs some of the most extreme conditions on the surface of the Earth. His thirst for daunting and dangerous adventure to capture some of the most incredible photos has taken him to places many would dare not go; into tornadoes, over glaciers, and as close as possible to the intense heat of volcanoes. Carsten Peter h...
Hodinkee
Ulysse Nardin's Blast debuts a new case, a new movement, and a new folding clasp.
Quill & Pad
A collector got in touch with Martin Green about an engraving project on a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classique that he was planning. What caught Martin's attention was that the collector was collaborating with an engraver very close to his home, so he seized the opportunity to follow the project as it unfolded. He shares his experiences and photos here.
Deployant
Audemars Piguet presents a new take on its women’s Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon, interweaving the eollection's refined feminine aesthetics and complicated micro-mechanics.
Hodinkee
Solar-powered and just about as thin as can be.
Time+Tide
Cam Wolf of GQ has made yet another great watchspot in his latest “Watches of the Week” column. Cam spots Joe Biden wearing an Omega Seamaster 300M with a black dial on his wrist during the Democratic National Convention. As Cam explains, this is not the only Omega Mr Biden owns – as he has also … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Joe Biden’s watch called “the perfect foil to Trump” by GQ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Ashton likes vintage watches so much that his prized possession is a 1978 Rolex Submariner Reference 1680. Why does he love this watch so much? Not because it looks like it’s from 1978, but because it is from 1978. So, he asks, is the current vintage trend something we should be wholeheartedly embracing?
Time+Tide
At the end of July, I wrote a hands-on review of my G-Shock GMWB5000TCM Titanium Camouflage. While that limited edition is likely almost sold out, anybody who may have missed out on that initial run may find a second wind in this familiar yet fresh take on the model. The GMWB5000TCF-2 is exactly the same … ContinuedThe post The new G-Shock GMWB5000TCF-2 “Blue Camo” is available for pre-order appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The advent of Hublot’s Big Bang essentially launched the provocative, innovative and disruptive brand. The brainchild of horological mega-doyen Jean-Claude Biver, the Big Bang arrived on the scene way back in 2004, and since then, it has not only reinvigorated but redefined what Hublot stands for. The evocatively named, plus-sized timepiece has been the wrist-worn proving … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 King Gold is kingmaker on the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
We go hands-on with the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept - the world's thinnest mechanical watch and tell you how it feels like on the wrist.
SJX Watches
Having just published its monthly report on Swiss watch exports, the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FH) has delivered numbers that back up what many industry insiders have been saying: China is the only bright spot in watch retail. The FH report for July 2020 indicated a moderating decline in the value of Swiss watch exports, which fell 17% for the month, half the decline in June. The biggest declines in volumes were suffered by cheaper watches, with watches priced at under CHF200 (at export value) falling by 41.5%. The number for watches priced over CHF3,000 was 11.1%. But the key takeaway was the continued recovery in China. Exports to China rose 59.1%, the second straight month of growth in the world’s largest market for Swiss watch exports. The second-largest market of the United States saw exports dip 0.6%, while the fall in exports to Hong Kong – once the world’s largest market – continued their plunge, falling 42.9% for the month.
Hodinkee
Refined design in a simple and sporty package.
Quill & Pad
For Martin Green, the MB&F; L'Épée 1839 Massena Lab T-Rex Bronze seems more raw and animalistic than its predecessors, as though you can smell the scent of this top predator moving through dense vegetation. He thinks that the true T-Rex variation has landed, and here he explains why.
WatchAdvice
As part of Tag Heuer’s 160th-anniversary celebration Tag Heuer recently released four new flagship models. These new models will join the brands existing Evergreen collection. The four new models are different variants of the Tag Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02. This new model is based on the brand’s iconic 1963 racing chronograph “the Carrera” and has been updated with modern styling and performance. The original 1963 Carrera model was presented as a “race-car dashboard for the wrist”. This watch at the time reflected Jack Heuer’s passion for racing and what was required for drivers to achieve better lap times during racing events. Jack Heuer’s interest in motorsport rose when he heard the story of the iconic Carrera Panamericana race. The Carrera Panamericana race was like no other. It was a 2096-mile-long border-to-border race across Mexico. Drivers would have to face harsh conditions and treacherous desert landscape, all the while travelling at 100mph (+). The race has arguably one of the highest mortality rates per race in the history of motorsport racing, leaving 27 drivers dead. The race lasted only five years and stopped in 1954. Jack Heuer designed the very first Tag Heuer Carrera as he took inspiration from the Carrera Panamericana race and its legendary status along with the courage and bravery showed by the drivers to tackle the unforgiving conditions. The original Carrera model was designed with dial elements that would serve to improve the ...
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Seiko 5 partners with popular fighting game Street Fighter V and releases 6 new models, each inspired by a character in the game. Details with pricing.
SJX Watches
Now almost two decades into its foray into watchmaking, Louis Vuitton has progressively introduced more complicated timepieces, an evolution that accelerated after its takeover of Geneva complications specialist La Fabrique du Temps (LFDT). Now Louis Vuitton’s signature complication, the Spin Time that tells the time with jumping cubes was LFDT’s earliest contributions to the trunk maker’s offerings. The latest variant of the complication is the Spin Time Air Japan Limited Edition. Drawing inspiration from the Japanese culture, the edition is made up of both a men’s and women’s model, each decorated with a motif that is distinctly Japanese. Initial thoughts With both versions having the same 42.5 mm Tambour case – tambour is French for drum and the very first case design of the brand – they are largish watches with great wrist presence, but they sit high on the wrist due to the case thickness (which is a consequence of the complication). But thanks to the relatively short lugs the case wears quite well. The case, however, is well proportioned – the large size suits the unique time display, with sufficient empty space to showcase the floating Spin Time complication. Reminiscent of the work of independent watchmakers like Urwerk and Ludovic Ballouard, the Spin Time display is inventive and different, but also easy to read, illustrating Louis Vuitton’s investment in making watches. But it is expensive, starting at US$80,000 for the men’s version. Japanese...
Time+Tide
Omega shows no signs of stopping when it comes to James Bond special editions, despite Bond showing no signs of showing up for 2020. Last year we saw the release of a Seamaster Diver 300M jam-packed with nods to 007’s heritage as a celebration of the 50th anniversary of On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. Now, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Platinum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Ferdinand Berthoud introduces the Chronomètre FB 2RE in a newly designed round case and a movement that has all the makings of a chronometric masterpiece.
Time+Tide
When we first caught wind that Longines was going to be releasing a totally new collection in 2020, we were very excited. They are a brand with a number of strongly performing collections that could easily see them sitting on their haunches, simply tweaking the recipe of their success with different dial variations, but they … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Longines Spirit collection range review appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The T.50, F1, and TAG Heuer.
Quill & Pad
As these things go, Parmigiani Fleurier and GaryG go back a pretty long way. So it was with significant interest that he took up the opportunity to handle, photograph, and evaluate Parmigiani’s latest introduction, the Tondagraph GT. It’s a relatively rare combination of two useful complications in what the brand calls “all-occasion” packaging, and it is offered at a quite reasonable price relative to other pieces of its kind.
Deployant
We bring you this update of living with the new Leica SL2 and use it as our daily camera and for watch macros for a week. Here is our real life review.
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