Revolution
Closer Look: Casio G-SHOCK GM-6900 with Metal Bezels
Casio add new members to the G-Shock family to mark the 25th anniversary of the iconic G-Shock DW-6900-1V.
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Revolution
Casio add new members to the G-Shock family to mark the 25th anniversary of the iconic G-Shock DW-6900-1V.
Revolution
The story of the MB&F; Legacy Machine Perpetual’s creation is as intriguing as the innovative workings of the movement driving it.
Revolution
Launched in 2018 in two versions of 25 pieces, one in polished steel version and the other one in gunmetal finish, the Urwerk UR-111C now comes in a two-tone version made of black PVD and brushed steel.
SJX Watches
Backed by Chopard and taking the name of a noted 18th century French watchmaker, Ferdinand Berthoud made its debut in 2015 with the Chronomètre FB 1. Though unusual in style with an octagonal case, the FB 1 boasts an impressively constructed movement developed and manufactured by the same facility responsible for Chopard’s top-of-the-line L.U.C calibres; the project was the brainchild of Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. At its core the FB 1 is an elaborate – and delightfully anachronistic – tribute to 18th century marine chronometers inside and out. The subject of four patents, the unusual calibre is very much antiquarian horology; it is constructed with pillar-style architecture and contains a chain-and-fusée, feeler-and-cone power reserve mechanism, and a large tourbillon with central seconds. Since the debut of the FB 1, there have been as many as ten subsequent variations – which is probably too many but it doesn’t diminish from the intrinsic, technical qualities of the watch – with one of the most recent being the Chronomètre FB 1 “Oeuvre d’Or” launched last year. Mechanically identical to the other iterations, the Oeuvre d’Or is distinguished by extra decoration, namely an engraved and grained gold dial as well as gold movement bridges engraved with a repeating pyramid motif. The Oeuvre d’Or FB 1.1-2 in white gold A tribute to marine chronometry Modern day Berthoud watches are inspired by the works of its 18th century namesak...
WatchAdvice
See how the Breitling Superocean Heritage stack up against other dive watches! The year 1957 was an important one in Breitling’s history, as this was when the brand first released the Superocean collection. In fact, the decade of 1950 saw some prestigious brands such as Rolex and Omega release dive watches (Submariner, Seamaster 300), with Breitling following suit in the latter years. Breitling released the Superocean model in two variants; chronograph and non-chronograph. Some of the originals from 1957 are much sought after today by Breitling and watch enthusiasts. In celebration of the 60th anniversary of the Superocean, in 2017 Breitling redesigned the Superocean Heritage line and released anniversary editions which come in both chronograph and non-chronograph versions, much like the originals from 1957. Both these editions were made by Breitling to resemble original versions in terms of design, with only the movement update being the significant change in the watches. The watch models came in 42mm and 46mm sizes with the chronograph version available in 46mm. All three size variants came in 3 different dial colour variations; black, blue and brown. In 2018, Breitling re-vamped the Superocean Heritage line once again by introducing the chronograph and non-chronograph versions in 44mm, along with a 42mm gold and stainless steel version. The three different sizes (42mm, 44mm, 46mm) offer a whole lot of flexibility to the general public to be able to match almost an...
Revolution
In the pantheon of emblematic sports chronographs, it’s the Zenith El Primero Ref. A3818 “Cover Girl” that inflames desire to the extreme.
Quill & Pad
Zacapa was one of the first rums ever to convince Ken Gargett that there was serious life in the category outside the ubiquitous "Bundy." He doesn't think that it will be long before people think of the best rums alongside other premium spirits, and Zacapa is one of the foremost proponents of this movement.
Revolution
With a case and bracelet that is almost entirely made out of sapphire, it’s clear that Chanel’s new J12 watch is here to amaze.
SJX Watches
Dive watches priced below US$10,000 are one of the saturated and competitive segments in watchmaking. The category is dominated by two dive watch icons, the Rolex Submariner and the Omega Seamaster, both of which set the bar high with high-spec, in-house escapements equipped with high-tech hairsprings and next-level chronometer certifications. Ulysse Nardin smartly steered away from the conventional dive-watch look with last year’s new Diver X. Created to mark the brand’s newly-forged partnership with Vendée Globe, a non-stop solo yacht race around the globe, the Diver X Cape Horn and Diver X Nemo Point are a contemporary take on the standard Diver Chronometer 44mm, dressed up in new materials and colours but retaining the same basic specs, namely a 300 m rating and an in-house movement with a proprietary escapement. The Diver X Cape Horn Dubbed the “Everest of the Seas” because of its reputation as the toughest sailing competition in the world, the Vendée Globe is such an arduous journey that the eight races since 1989 have claimed three lives. Competitors have to travel over 40,000 km, a round-the-world trip that takes between two to four months. Unsurprisingly, the twin Diver X editions are aggressively styled and technically robust. Form and function Each named after key points along the Vendée Globe route, the Cape Horn and Nemo Point have the longstanding, symmetrical layout of a Ulysse Nardin diver’s watch – originally inspired by the dial of the br...
Time+Tide
Jean-Claude Biver is a horological superhero. The legendary watch entrepreneur brought Blancpain back to life, resuscitated Omega and turned Hublot into a super-brand for which LVMH paid almost half a billion dollars. As a result, he’s assembled a private watch collection that would do King Midas proud. Auction house Phillips understands the appeal, which is … ContinuedThe post Jean-Claude Biver reveals “the most beautiful watch I have ever seen” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
A few days ago, we uploaded a photo of the Zenith Defy Classic Ref.95.9000.670/51.R790 and asked our 120,000 followers this question: “Is the Zenith Classic underrated?” The response was resoundingly confirmative, with many people opining that not only the Defy Classic but the Defy range in general was, more often than not, overlooked and it shouldn’t … ContinuedThe post We asked you if the Zenith Defy was underrated, and this is what you said appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Four editors go head-to-head to assemble the best group of watches for under $10,000.
Revolution
MB&F; launches two new versions of its GPHG award-winning Legacy Machine FlyingT, now with beautiful guilloché dials from Kari Voutilainen.
Revolution
The story of how two friends and master watchmakers, Jean-Marc Wiederrecht and Roger Dubuis, gave the world its first bi-retrograde perpetual calendar.
Deployant
Breaking News: Citizen is the latest to exit from Baselworld 2020, citing worries about the current epidemic of COVID-19 as the reasons.
SJX Watches
George Daniels’ contributions to horology, as a watchmaker, historian and educator, were multi-dimensional. Most are widely known, and his watches are now incredibly valuable. But one of his creations – the “Unfinished Daniels” – remains tantalisingly incomplete, residing in the Clockmakers’ Museum within London’s Science Museum (which is also now home to Daniels’ Space Traveller II pocket watch). Even though he completed only a small number of watches – 23 pocket watches and four wristwatches made by hand, along with the serially-produced Millennium watches – Daniels’ inventions, techniques and philosophy have been deeply influential. His successor Roger W. Smith now practices the Daniels method with his own hand-made watches, but other notable watchmakers, including Francois-Paul Journe, have cited Daniels as an inspiration. The unfinished Daniels movement in the George Daniels exhibit in the Clockmakers’ Museum. Photo – Science Museum Like many great watchmakers over the ages, Daniels’ pursued perfect chronometry throughout his career; inventing a novel, superior escapement was perhaps his greatest achievement. And he managed to do it twice. Having observed that the sliding friction in the conventional Swiss lever escapement affects the rate of a movement over time, he set about developing solutions. He invented two escapement types: one inspired by a 18th century Abraham-Louis Breguet idea, while the other was the entirely original and mo...
Time+Tide
When does the weekend technically start? Is it Friday arvo or does the clock have to strike 12am on Saturday morning? Reason I’m asking is because I spotted all my watches in this weekend’s instalment on Friday afternoon and, boy oh boy, were there some lookers … enjoy! John’s (@minutes_intime) Oris Big Crown Pointer Date … ContinuedThe post Weekend watch spotting with JR – Ft. Oris, Omega & Rolex appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The date: January 13, 2012. The place: Glashütte, Germany, where one of GaryG's best friends had arranged for the two of them to visit A. Lange & Söhne. The vision: his friend extended his arm from the sleeve of his shirt, and what Gary saw left him reeling – his first view of the Lange Datograph Perpetual in white gold. He was confident from that very moment that this was a watch for him, but pursuit of the piece took four long years.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Interested in the Omega Seamaster? Read about the history, facts, specs, and wearing experience of this iconic Omega model right here!
Hodinkee
Another week, another round of watches from the web worth knowing about.
Deployant
In the world of bicycling, the master artisans are much like watchmaking.We take a look at the Responsorium, the masterwork Dario Pegoretti.
Hodinkee
A J12 made in the spirit of, you might say, full transparency.
SJX Watches
Synonymous with playing Iron Man in Disney’s The Avengers franchise, Robert Downey Jr. is also a fan of Urwerk, having worn several of its watches on screen. Having loaned an Urwerk UR-105 CT to Mr Downey to wear in Avengers: Endgame, the watchmaker then offered the watch up for a good cause, selling it at Phillips auctioneers last year for US$312,500. Proceeds from the sale went to Random Act Funding, a charity established by Mr Downey and his wife, Susan. Now another watch worn by Mr Downey is going under the hammer, once again to benefit Random Act Funding. The watch in question is the UR-111C Black that was worn by Mr Downey to the premieres of Avengers: Endgame in New York and Los Angeles last year. Robert Downey Jr. sporting the UR-111C. Photos – Urwerk Offered in like-new condition, the UR-111C is one of just 25 examples made and identical to the standard model save for one important detail: “RDJ” is engraved on the case place where the serial number would usually be. The watch is being sold in an online auction, with the bidding starting at 125,000 Swiss francs. Bids can be placed from now until 9:00 pm Swiss time on February 24. Only registered members of Urwerk Pre-Owned can bid on the watch, and registration can be done on Urwerkpreowned.com. For more information, please contact Urwerk social media manager Alex Rose.
SJX Watches
To mark the 20th anniversary of the J12, Chanel is premiering not one but two epic versions of the iconic ceramic watch. While the first features a striking two-colour ceramic case, the second is perhaps the ultimate J12. Rendered entirely in clear sapphire – case, bracelet, and movement – the J12 X-Ray is delicate, extravagant and novel. Clear and second only to diamond in hardness, sapphire is also fragile and susceptible to chipping, cracking or shattering. Its properties are similar to that of ceramic, the defining material of the J12, except more extreme. As it is with Chanel’s ceramic cases, the sapphire parts of the J12 X-Ray are made by Chanel subsidiary G&F; Chatelain, a case maker that has produced sapphire cases for another Chanel-owned brand, Bell & Ross. Measuring 38mm wide, the case is machined from a single sapphire block and topped by a white gold bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds. Similarly, the dial is also sapphire, and fitted with a minute track and hands in white gold. All of the hour markers, on the other hand, are baguette-cut diamonds. Sapphire bridges and links And beneath the sapphire dial – which also doubles up as the movement base plate – is the Caliber 3.1. Derived from the rectangular, skeletonised Caliber 3 found in the in the Boy-Friend Skeleton, the Caliber 3.1 is hand-wound with all of its moving parts secured by sapphire bridges, which allows the movement to be seen from the front and back. The pivots of the gears of the go...
Revolution
Chopard’s L.U.C Lunar One perpetual calendar is the culmination of over three decades of design experimentation by the maison.
SJX Watches
Having given the J12 a thorough revamp last year, Chanel has just dropped the most astonishing iteration of its signature watch in the lead-up to Baselworld 2020 – the J12 Paradoxe. Conceived to mark the 20th anniversary of the iconic watch, the J12 Paradoxe looks like a digitally doctored timepiece at first glance. In fact, the stock images of the watch would pass for an abstract J12 ad. But J12 Paradoxe is actually two-tone – two thirds of the case in white ceramic and the remainder in black ceramic. Rely on the same concept but more valuable materials, Chanel is also rolling out the uber-extravagant J12 Paradoxe Diamonds combining black ceramic, white gold, and diamonds. While ceramic is about four times harder than steel, the hardness makes it brittle and delicate to machine, making a ceramic watch case slightly more challenging to fabricate than the same in steel. Produced by G&F; Chatelain, the buckle and case-maker owned by Chanel, the case is essentially two sections of ceramic anchored to an inner steel frame. Each section is secured to the frame with two screws, which are visible on the back of the watch. And the movement is also contained with the frame. Because of the multi-part construction of the case, the water resistance is 50 m, instead of the 200 m of the standard J12 that has a single-piece ceramic case. The dial and bezel insert continue the colours of the case, but each component is a single piece that’s been treated to create a two-colour fini...
Hodinkee
Does the bronze Captain Cook get the gold seal of approval?
SJX Watches
Switzerland has a well-earned reputation for producing high-quality machinery and engineering, mostly produced by small and medium-sized businesses making equipment like machine tools, printing presses, and lifts. For the same reasons, Switzerland boasts world-class watch companies, most of which share the same prowess in manufacturing and engineering. As it happens, a Swiss company was an industry leader in cryptography machines for several decades in the late 20th century. Founded by a Swede in Switzerland, Crypto AG sold mechanical encoding devices to some 120 countries, including Iran, India, and the Vatican. Although digital cryptography has now rendered cryptography hardware obsolete, such machines were once crucial to international diplomacy, intelligence, and espionage. Crypto AG was a key producer of these machines, helped by the fact that Switzerland is a neutral country. But a recent investigation by the The Washington Post and German public television network Zweites Deutsches Fernsehen (ZDF) have revealed that since 1970, Crypto AG was secretly owned by the CIA and Bundesnachrichtendienst (BND), Germany’s federal intelligence service. The news has since spiralled into a scandal in Switzerland – where neutrality has been a national policy since the 19th century – with the government setting up an inquiry to investigate just how much former officials knew. Building in backdoors According to the Post, Crypto AG founder Boris Hagelin had once hoped to pas...
Hodinkee
Two locations, two different experiences of watchmaking.
SJX Watches
Almost exactly a year after Breitling announced the Navitimer Ref. 806 remake – a spot-on remake of the first Navitimer and a smash hit – the watchmaker has applied the same formula for the AVI Ref. 765 1953 Re-Edition, a limited edition of 1,953 watches in steel. Introduced in 1953 and produced in several variants until 1965 when it was rebranded the Co-Pilot, the AVI ref. 765 was typical of mid 20th century pilot’s chronographs, with large Arabic numerals, syringe hands, and a steel rotating bezel. In fact, it is reminiscent of the Type 20 chronographs supplied by Breguet, Auricoste and other firms to the French navy and air force during the same period. Remade exactly And the AVI ref. 765 was oversized for the era, with a case measuring 41.1 mm. According to Breitling, the AVI Re-Edition replicates the original to the smallest detail, down to the tenth of a millimetre of case diameter. The steel bezel is even secured by three screws in exactly the same spots as on the original. Only two external elements on the remake have been changed: one is the removal of “Geneve” from the dial, a necessity given Breitling’s location; and the other is the increased water resistance of 30 m. That being said, modern production techniques and materials mean that rather than being perfectly identical, the replica is probably better in fit and finish than the original. The lacquer-filled engraving on the bezel, for instance, is more precisely done on the modern version. The vi...
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