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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

Hands-On: Breitling’s Top Time Tribute To An Epic Cycling Rivalry WatchAdvice
Breitling s Top Time Tribute Apr 14, 2025

Hands-On: Breitling’s Top Time Tribute To An Epic Cycling Rivalry

Breitling’s latest Top Time releases pay tribute to cycling legends Gino Bartali and Fausto Coppi, blending heritage with the brand’s signature style. I take these timepieces hands-on for review to see if they live up to their promise, both on the wrist and paper. What We Love: These new watches offer a refreshing new take on a collection currently dominated by motorsports. Timepieces are eye-catching while staying true to Top Time design and colours that represent the respective cycling legends. The mechanical performance matches the vibrant design, offering a well-rounded package for those who want a fun and reliable timepiece on their wrist. What We Don’t: The case will wear slightly larger on smaller wrists, especially with its lug-to-lug presence. As with all Top Time Chronograph timepeices, lack of date window might be a drawback for those that prefer the added practicality. Personal choice, but would have loved to see a yellow dial with blue accents for Gino Barali model, offering another new look to the Top Time collection alongside the Fausto Coppi model. Overall Rating: 8.6/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Breitling has been expanding their Top Time collection as of late, bringing in the brand new time and date B31 models alongside the newly redesigned chronograph model with its new aesthetics cushion-shaped case. The Swiss watchmaker has also introduced two new models in the existing chronograph design, ...

Hands On: Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Take Apr 14, 2025

Hands On: Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA

Take a moment to think about the characteristics that would make the perfect everyday watch; what would you come up with? The list would probably include things like maximum precision, minimum weight, an agreeable size with good ergonomics, and a design that is at home in both formal and casual environments. It also wouldn’t cost a fortune. That might as well have been the design brief for the new Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive Ultra Fine Accuracy (UFA) SLGB001 and SLGB003, which ticks about as many boxes as any single watch can. In fact, just about the worst thing you can say about the UFA is that the design isn’t taking any risks, but that’s the cost of chameleon-like versatility. While the watch is also available in an 80-piece limited edition in platinum (the SLGB001, pictured above), the primary focus of this review will be the more crowd-pleasing titanium version with matching bracelet (the SLGB003), which is a regular production model and priced right. The SLGB003 Initial thoughts Putting it bluntly, the UFA is an absolute spec-sheet monster. If you’re onboard with the idea of a quartz oscillator in an otherwise mechanical watch, there’s very little to nitpick. It’s simply one of the most accurate, wearable, and well-made watches on the market.  In true Grand Seiko style, the UFA is fitted with a nature-inspired dial motif that is modeled on a hillside of frost-covered trees. It’s a fairly abstract representation, which means it will look like d...

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Apr 13, 2025

Time to Pack: Road Cycling Gear Guide

In the latest Time to Pack, Ed Jelley takes us along for the ride-literally. With cycling season in full swing this Spring, he shares what’s been working for him out on the road, how his kit has evolved, and why packing smart can make all the difference. Whether you’re gearing up for a casual day trip or planning something a bit more ambitious, there’s plenty of inspiration here for dialing in your setup. From bags and tools to hydration and snacks (yes, Swedish Fish), Ed’s approach is all about flexibility, function, and a little bit of fun. If you’re the kind of rider who obsesses over the perfect kit-or you’re just getting started and wondering what to bring-this episode is packed with ideas to help you hit the road feeling prepared and excited. Whether you’re a frequent cyclist or just getting into the hobby, this video offers a bit of insight into how to make the most of your cycling kit. We hope that Time to Pack will continue to be that kind of content you didn’t even know you needed-watch-based content that delves into travel gear and packing in rich and robust ways. Enjoy! The post Time to Pack: Road Cycling Gear Guide appeared first on Worn & Wound.

SJX Podcast: Watches & Wonders 2025 Roundup SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin were standouts – Apr 13, 2025

SJX Podcast: Watches & Wonders 2025 Roundup

With Watches & Wonders 2025 having just concluded, we discuss the best watches seen at the fair, as well as developments and happenings at the year’s biggest watch fair. We cover the establishment brands – Rolex and Vacheron Constantin were standouts – and the independents. (For a written take on the fair, read my editorial.) Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex 1908 Yellow Gold Vs. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Pink Gold Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Apr 13, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex 1908 Yellow Gold Vs. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Pink Gold

It’s time for our first Sunday Morning Showdown after the craziness of Watches and Wonders 2025. As you can guess, we will create new matchups based on the watches introduced in Geneva. These provide us with plenty of picks for the upcoming weeks. In this first post-Watches and Wonders matchup, Mike and Jorg go head […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex 1908 Yellow Gold Vs. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Pink Gold to read the full article.

Hands On: Zenith G.F.J., Calibre 135 Revived SJX Watches
Zenith G.F.J Calibre 135 Revived Apr 12, 2025

Hands On: Zenith G.F.J., Calibre 135 Revived

Zenith has finally started to look beyond the El Primero with the G.F.J., which features a new version of the storied chronometer cal. 135. Conceived to mark the brand’s 160th anniversary, the G.F.J. moniker is a reference to the brand’s founder, Georges Favre-Jacot, whose initials grace the facade at the manufacture in Le Locle. This new model marks the return of the famous movement phased out about 60 years ago. But production has officially restarted, and the new cal. 135 features modern upgrades that differentiate it from the vintage original used in the Calibre 135 Observatoire introduced in 2022. The “new old stock” cal. 135 that Zenith dusted off for the 2022 edition. Image – Zenith The movement returns to market in a 160-piece limited edition in platinum and features an elaborate blue dial that that is made from lapis lazuli and mother of pearl. For about double the price, owners can request a full platinum bracelet, which endows the watch with impressive heft. Initial thoughts I’ve always liked the cal. 135 and wished Zenith would bring it back. That said, I was not convinced by the first stock images I saw of the G.F.J. I felt like the dial was overwrought, and the basketweave pattern on the movement was distracting. Having spent some time with the watch, I would soften my criticism of the dial as it’s more subtle on the wrist and up close the details are finely done. Moreover, subsequent non-anniversary versions will likely have these details toned...

eBay Finds: Precious Metal Classics from Omega and IWC, a Funky Waltham, and a Seiko 5 in Great Condition Worn & Wound
Omega Apr 11, 2025

eBay Finds: Precious Metal Classics from Omega and IWC, a Funky Waltham, and a Seiko 5 in Great Condition

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Waltham B-383 Rally Diver  Here’s a wild one to start off this week, a vintage Waltham diver with a bold rally dial. The large squarish chunky steel case looks unpolished with sharp edges. The diver’s bezel has a cool half yellow, half black acrylic insert that is in really nice shape. The dial is what really sets this diver apart though, with its intricate black, yellow and blue alternating “rally” style design. Broad steel hands and the ubiquitous 1970s day/date window complete the look. No movement picture, but the seller states it runs well. This one has all the vintage swag you could want in a diver! View auction here Vintage Seiko 5 Sportsmatic  Next up is this simple yet stylish vintage Seiko 5 Sportsmatic. These are really versatile, large and robust enough to be sporty, but you can dress it up with a nice leather strap and it would be right at home with a suit! This 1967 model is in excellent, unpolished shape, with a large 38mm case. The classic Seiko silver dial with steel markers and hands is also excellent. Of note, the hour and minute hands are the exact same hands used on the iconic Seiko 6105 divers, although the lume color is different. Nice clean auto...

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M 2220.80.00 Worn & Wound
Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M Apr 11, 2025

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M 2220.80.00

“That makes perfect sense, since MI6 looks for maladjusted young men who’d give little thought to sacrificing others in order to protect queen and country. You know, former SAS types with easy smiles and expensive watches - Rolex?” “Omega.” I’m not James Bond. I know it may come as a surprise, but I don’t spend my time playing in high-stakes poker games (or baccarat, if you prefer the books), I don’t chase terrorists across European cities, and I don’t save the world from a colorful megalomaniac every few years. But I do have a bit of a crush on Eva Green, and I do wear an Oh-meeg-uh, so I guess I can forgive the confusion. Specifically, and for about the last half-decade, I’ve been wearing a reference 2220.80.00 Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M, the same watch worn by Daniel Craig in the infamous train car scene of Casino Royale quoted above, and, for my money, the best Seamaster to come out of Bern, maybe ever. I don’t make that claim lightly. The Seamaster is, by the standards of a ‘luxury’ watch, remarkably ubiquitous. I see Seamasters a lot - on the wrists of my bartenders, on the subway, and almost every time I move through an airport. A lot of that is thanks to one thing: Bond. But while most people know the Seamaster thanks to its starring role in three decades worth of Bond films, the name goes back far further - all the way to 1946.  Granted, those first Seamasters have very little to do with the dive watches we most associ...

Two New Divers from Timex: One Pulling Heavily on 90s Nostalgia, Another with Contemporary Design Codes Worn & Wound
Timex One Pulling Heavily Apr 11, 2025

Two New Divers from Timex: One Pulling Heavily on 90s Nostalgia, Another with Contemporary Design Codes

Like it or not, the ‘90s are in right now, and Timex is banking on that Millennial and Gen X nostalgia with a swath of new releases. First up is the 1995 Intrepid Reissue, which harkens back to a time when the compact discs were flowing and JFK Jr. was rocking a Timex. A collaboration between Timex, Dimepiece, and foundwell, the Intrepid Reissue aims for dive functionality and retro-cool style in tandem.  The Intrepid Reissue rests within a 46mm stainless steel case, giving it a full-bodied brawn that’s a little unusual for a Timex. A proper skin-diver, it offers 100 meters of water resistance, powered by a quartz movement. It also gets the full iconic INDIGLO treatment, with a full back light controlled by a dedicated pusher at the 9 o’clock position. A slide rule unidirectional top ring with logarithmic scales allows for complex calculating-something I’ve never been able to learn how to do on a watch, but am very happy to boast about to anyone who will listen.  The dial of the Intrepid Reissue is a bold white, with luminous hands that make legibility a breeze, and the crown, placed unusually at 4 o’clock, adds a touch of quirky character. A synthetic rubber strap is nestled within the 22mm lug width. The contrasting black slide rule ring matches the strap, and gives the Intrepid a faux-panda colorway that is effectively stylish, especially with the small green accents of the pusher and other details.  Does all this talk of diving get you excited, but you w...

Biver Automatique’s in Yellow Gold with a Carbon Option SJX Watches
Apr 11, 2025

Biver Automatique’s in Yellow Gold with a Carbon Option

Having launched the Automatique last year in a range of metals except yellow gold, Biver has now revealed a pair in the classic precious metal. The Automatique in yellow gold debuts with a matching solid yellow gold dial or a more unusual dial in glossy, woven carbon fibre composite. Initial thoughts I was already a proponent of the Automatique, mainly because of the high quality of construction inside and out. The yellow gold duo add more options to the offering, but arguably bring more than just a new colour because the material evokes a vintage feel that suits the design. Between rose and yellow gold, I would pick the latter. The carbon dial version is interesting because it brings to mind the era of the 1990s when woven carbon fibre was a thing. The novelty of the material has since been supplanted by more exotic carbon composites, but the retro feel of the carbon dial is appealing. Moreover, it brings to mind the black-and-gold livery of John Player Special Formula 1 cars, which is precisely the point of this version according to Biver chief executive James Marks. Both versions are priced identically to their equivalents in the standard and Atelier Series. That’s fair enough but the carbon should be priced a little lower since the other Atelier models have mineral stone or fired enamel dials, which are typically costlier and harder to work than carbon fibre. The original colour of gold The new Automatique retains all of the features of the earlier versions, includin...

Fratello’s Top 5 Most Significant Releases From Watches And Wonders 2025 Fratello
Apr 11, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Most Significant Releases From Watches And Wonders 2025

Another Friday, another list! After a week without a Top 5, we are back with a new one. Watches and Wonders 2025 is over. Now that the dust clouds have settled, it’s time to talk about favorites and the best of the show. In our current Fratello Favorites series, you can read all about our […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Most Significant Releases From Watches And Wonders 2025 to read the full article.

A New, Record Breaking, Bulgari Tourbillon Worn & Wound
Bulgari Tourbillon You have Apr 10, 2025

A New, Record Breaking, Bulgari Tourbillon

You have to give it up for Piaget. When they introduced the Altiplano Concept Tourbillon last year, they made a hell of a play for the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch. At 2.0mm, that watch was (as most ultra-thin watches are) inconceivably thin. I have to imagine that, when Piaget introduced that watch last year, they felt pretty good about holding onto the record for at least a while but, as these things go, eventually, Bulgari has to have its say in the matter. A year later, we have Bulgari’s seemingly inevitable response: The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon. At just 1.85mm thick, Bulgari’s latest Ultra-Thin masterpiece represents their 10th world record for thinness in watchmaking and reunites Bulgari with a record it has held on and off since 2014 - which, by way of comparison, was a record they had previously held with watches measuring 5mm and 3.95mm thick. Hard to imagine it, but each of those now seems downright chunky by comparison. There’s a good reason why you often see watches like this held up next to credit cards: Devoid of context, it’s almost impossible for your brain to compute just how little three-dimensional space these watches take up. Bulgari has achieved this stupendously mind-blowing level of thinness by applying the design and construction techniques introduced with the 1.80mm thin Octo Finissimo Ultra and the 1.70mm thin Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC. Most notably, Bulgari has integrated the case and movement of the Octo Finissimo Ultra ...

Introducing: A 42mm Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique In Steel Fratello
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique Apr 10, 2025

Introducing: A 42mm Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique In Steel

Just when the watch world is beginning to settle into the quiet post-Watches and Wonders pace, Blancpain shakes things up by introducing a version of its 42mm Fifty Fathoms in steel. Recently, I had the pleasure of spending some time with the 42mm Blancpain Fifty Fathoms in titanium. Now the brand has introduced a new […] Visit Introducing: A 42mm Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique In Steel to read the full article.

Photo Essay: Patek Philippe Gets Nostalgic with Rare Handcrafts 2025 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Gets Nostalgic Apr 9, 2025

Photo Essay: Patek Philippe Gets Nostalgic with Rare Handcrafts 2025

Just as Watches & Wonders 2025 comes to a close, Patek Philippe is opening the doors of its annual showcase of Rare Handcrafts at its historical home base along the Geneva waterfront. Now open for a period of three weeks rather than two as was the case for the 2024 exhibition, the exhibition features dozens of Dome Clocks, wristwatches, and pocket watches embellished with miniature enamel painting, cloisonné, marquetry, hand engraving, and other artistic forms of decoration. The view from the salon with the historic Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues on the left hidden by trees In addition to the usual nature-inspired themes, this year’s collection plays to nostalgia, including both rose-coloured memories of the past and antiquarian visions of the future. Visiting the Rare Handcrafts exhibit is enjoyable because intellectually it’s a level playing field; it’s mostly the same clocks and watches with the same specs and movements dressed up in different ways. This fact makes it easier to pay attention to one’s own heart, and to get drawn into the creations on an emotional level. Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50R-020 “Regent Street” Clocks While the selection of clocks is naturally centered around the brand’s iconic Dome Clocks, Patek is also bringing back desk clocks with a new version of the ref. 27001M which sold for more than US$10 million at Only Watch in 2021. For the corporate titan who has everything, the million-franc desk clock ref. 27000M is embellished with e...

Editorial: Observations and Takeaways at Watches & Wonders 2025 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Solaria Ultra Grand Complication Apr 9, 2025

Editorial: Observations and Takeaways at Watches & Wonders 2025

By some measures, Watches & Wonders 2025 was the biggest ever. Visitors rose 12% on the previous year to 55,000, and more inconveniently, the hotel room-nights were up 17% to 43,000, perhaps explaining why accommodation gets more expensive every year (but fortunately still far from the extortion of Basel). But I am certain by other measures Watches & Wonders (W&W;) was a down year. Orders by retailers for new watches are surely lower than a year before. There was an undercurrent of concern throughout the fair, even before American tariffs were announced halfway through. But as is often the case, most executives acknowledge a slowdown but predict their brand will outperform because it is better. The best of the Land-Dweller variants, the 40 mm in platinum Big and small brands One of the most interesting developments this year is the degree of novelty at big brands compared to independent watchmakers. In recent history indies tended to have the more notable creations – the F.P. Journe FFC from two years ago is one of the all-time greats – but this year the opposite happened. The two best launches during W&W; season came from big brands (or at least an establishment brand owned by a big group): the Rolex Land-Dweller and the Vacheron Constantin Solaria Ultra Grand Complication. The Land-Dweller incorporates an extraordinary number of innovations in its cal. 7135, while the Solaria is the most complicated wristwatch ever made, but importantly, it gained the title with a clev...

Bell & Ross Introduces a New, Smaller BR-05 36MM Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Introduces Apr 8, 2025

Bell & Ross Introduces a New, Smaller BR-05 36MM

Twenty years after the release of the Bell & Ross BR-01, which first showcased the square case shape and bold legibility that would become their aesthetic hallmarks, the Franco-Swiss brand is celebrating with new iterations of their most popular and recognizable watches. Among these new editions are four versions of the BR-05 36mm, which gives the model a smaller size and new dial colorways.  The most noticeable update to the BR-05 is right there in its name-the smaller and thinner satin-polished steel case measures at 36mm in diameter and 8.5mm in thickness, giving it significantly less heft than the previous 40, 41, and 42mm models. Four screws ensure that the upper section of the case is hermetically sealed to the bottom, and give the iconic rounded square extra urban-industrial character. An integrated bracelet furthers the watch’s sporty-yet-elegant silhouette, secured by a folding satin-finished buckle. A screw-down crown flanked by guards and emblazoned with the Bell & Ross ampersand logo ensures 100 meters of water resistance, while a Caliber BR-CAL.329 automatic movement ticks away inside, maintaining a 54-hour power reserve.  Each of the four new models features identical applique numerals and indexes, and skeletonised hour and minute hands (all filled with white Super-LumiNova X1). However, each dial varies in both color and material, all of which lean towards chic-versatility (yes, I did make that phrase up), but maintain a cohesive aesthetic. The first o...