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Quill & Pad
It will surprise nobody that over the last 5 years certain steel sports watches have taken off in terms of popularity and become practically impossible to buy at an authorized retailer. However, fear not as there is still a unicorn out there that has not captured broader attention (yet): the Girard-Perregaux Laureato.
SJX Watches
The Geneva spring auction season kicks off soon and as expected, most of the weekend’s highlights are the usual timepieces from establishment brands and independent watchmakers, including one that is a mix of both, the Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie pocket watch made by Philippe Dufour. But one of the season’s most intriguing lot is altogether different – the Patek Philippe Ref. 1252 “Chameleon” that’ll go under the hammer at Antiquorum. Both intriguing and quirky, the ref. 1252 “Chameleon” is essentially a sculptural bracelet that happens to have a small, manual-wind movement installed. While such bracelet wristwatches are common for jewellers like Cartier and Bulgari, the “Chameleon” is decidedly unconventional for Patek Philippe. Made in the late 1940s, this example of the “Chameleon” is only the second one known. The first example resides in the Patek Philippe Museum as inventory no. P-107. The “Chameleon” is perhaps more object than timekeeper. It has an estimate of CHF50,000-100,000 – arguably not so much for a sculptural Patek Philippe of which only two are known, or a pricey, oddball ladies’ watch. But it is unquestionably interesting and perhaps one of the most intriguing objects on the block this weekend. The “Chameleon” is lot 450 and has an estimate of CHF50,000-100,000. Its archive extract has been ordered and is pending according to Antiquorum. For more, visit Antiquorum.com.
Hodinkee
With the NBA Playoffs set to tip off, we look at a collection as versatile as Harris's game.
SJX Watches
Continuing with iterations on its bestseller, Urwerk has just taken the covers off the UR-100V “Magic T”. Retaining Urwerk’s signature wandering hours time display, the Magic T has both its case and matching bracelet in finely-blasted titanium, giving it a look that is distinct from the UR-100V “Full Metal Jacket” launched in 2021. Initial thoughts At first glance, the Magic T looks identical to its 2021 predecessor. Both are identical in design and share a matte titanium case and bracelet. But in person the Magic T is clearly different, even though it’s only the finishing of the titanium that differs. The Magic T has a finer, smoother finish that gives it a softer, more refined feel. This gives more tactile appeal than the Full Metal Jacket for me, so anyone who missed out on last year’s model should not have any regrets. That said, I hope Urwerk doesn’t do too many limited-edition variants of the UR-100V on a bracelet, because it would risk getting repetitive. For now, however, the runs are small enough and editions few enough that the model remains appealing and interesting. Finely “shotblasted” Unlike the Full Metal Jacket that was finished with a tangibly granular finish, the Magic T is entirely in “sanded shotblasted titanium”. In other words, it was blasted with smaller abrasive particles than those used for the Full Metal Jacket, resulting in its smoother, finer finish. The difference in finish is tactile enough that both watches feel differ...
SJX Watches
Christie’s kicks off the spring auction season with Watches Online: The Dubai Edit, a 136-lot sale taking place entirely online. Featuring a diverse selection of watches, the sale by big-ticket items like a Richard Mille RM 69 tourbillon and a Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711/111P with a sapphire-set bezel. But the sale also encompasses some unusual and interesting timepieces that are worth a second look, including the Richard Mille RM 36-01 with a G-force sensor and a Grand Seiko 8-Days produced by the same workshop responsible for the better-known Credor Eichi. Some lots are uniquely reflective of the Middle East: amongst them is the Gerald Genta Octo Mosaic with a perpetual calendar in Eastern-Arabic script and a Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse gentleman’s set of a solid-gold lighter and cufflinks enamelled with the flag of Oman. A Royal Oak with the signature of Sheikh Mohammed of Dubai under 12 o’clock where the brand name typically is Watches Online: The Dubai Edit takes place online from April 24 to May 4. All the watches will be on show at the same time in the preview exhibition in the Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC). Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be found on Christies.com. Lot 1: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 4100BA “Sheikh Mohammed” One of the sale’s headline lots is an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 4100BA that, from a distance, looks like an ordinary mid-sized version of the emblematic sports watch. But up close this exa...
Quill & Pad
Joshua Munchow kicks off the first short videos highlighting GPHG Academy members. Joshua is Quill & Pad's resident 'nerd writer' and in this short video clip he explains what he does and being in the GPHG Academy.
Deployant
Fresh off the oven of the recent Watches & Wonders 2023, we take a deep look at the novelties and select six great watches below US$5,000.
Time+Tide
When you have the most sought-after watch in the world, it takes humongous cojones to kill it off. While some would say it is insanity, Patek Philippe CEO Thierry Stern, who elected to discontinue the coveted 5711 Nautilus in steel, would probably argue it is discipline. A calculated effort that respects the trust and loyalty … ContinuedThe post Thierry Stern has no plans to sell Patek Philippe and is set to introduce the first new collection since 1999 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Because it was the world’s biggest watch brands showing off their latest products at Watches & Wonders (W&W;), surprises seemed unlikely. Yet there were a few surprises at the fair, with several coming from the most conservative brand of all, Rolex, which debuted the now infamous “Bubbles” and “Puzzle”. But the unexpected aside, the fair also saw a number of well-executed new models that were just right, most notably from Cartier, which stuck to what it does well. The Tank Normale in yellow gold with a matching bracelet Surprises A surprise launch, but certainly not unexpected as a highlight, is the Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time ref. 5224R. Although it appears to be a typical Calatrava at a distance, the ref. 5224R is elegantly different. For one, it is surprisingly large for a Calatrava at 42 mm but typically thin at under 9 mm. The ref. 5224R More unusual is the 24-hour display that is a convenient and smart method of showing two time zones without the need for a day and night indicator. But as is often the case with Patek Philippe, the novelty of the watch was not invented. Its key features, namely the time display and case size, are rooted in history – the watch is modelled on the oversized Chronometro Gondolo pocket watches of the early 20th century. But at over US$57,000, the ref. 5224R is unusually expensive for a two-time zone watch, though that is explained in part by the high-end movement inside that’s shared with the top-of-t...
SJX Watches
Ever since Rolex discreetly revealed the one-off Yacht-Master in titanium made for Olympic sailor Sir Ben Ainslie, enthusiasts have been waiting for the commercially-available equivalent (which got all the more likely after the release of the Rolex Deepsea Challenge last year). And now Rolex has finally done it with the Yacht-Master 42 in RLX titanium. Similar to Sir Ben’s watch but with the addition of a date and matching titanium bracelet, the Yacht-Master 42 is perhaps the most restrained sports watch in the current Rolex catalogue. Initial thoughts Being a long-time fan of the Yacht-Master line, I’m glad to see this has finally arrived. Though large in size, it’s lighter and consequently more wearable. The muted colours and finish give it a no-fuss, contemporary look that sets it apart from the usual sports Rolex, but it retains the recognisable Yacht-Master style with its relief bezel. Perhaps the recognisable look is the only aspect to critique: the watch is little changed in terms of design from past Yacht-Master models (which were mostly in precious metals). The option of a rubber strap as seen on Sir Ben’s watch, for instance, would have given the Yacht-Master collection some variety. At CHF13,400, the Yacht-Master 42 is priced reasonably relative to other Rolex sports models. However, compared to the all-titanium offerings from Tudor – the Tudor Pelagos 39 is very, very similar – this is less of a value proposition, but it is still a Rolex. A mo...
Revolution
Discover a relatively young brand that creates off-kilter timepieces inspired by automation and aviation engineering. François Moreau is a horology enthusiast who founded Reservoir in 2015. In terms of technicality, Reservoir’s 2023 novelties include jumping hour and retrograde minutes timepieces, and its novelties often resemble dashboard or cockpit indicators. Moreau also infuses his timepieces with […]
Revolution
Discover the French brand Yema together with Jeremiah Chan, Deputy Digital Editor, at Time To Watches. Founded in 1948, Yema creates off-kilter vintage-inspired dress watches and field watches. Jeremiah had the opportunity to get his hands on popular Yema timepieces like the Yema Rallye 5 Turbo that was inspired by Renault’s 5 Turbo hatch icon […]
Deployant
Bell & Ross is off to a good start with three novelties for this week, and many more throughout the year culminating in an exciting piece scheduled for Nov.
SJX Watches
Fresh off the success of last year’s unexpected Santos-Dumont “Lacquered Case”, Cartier continues with the theme but now with an newly developed open-worked movement. Making its debut in three variants, the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor underscore Cartier’s commitment to the Santos-Dumont, the model that’s truest to the 1904 watch designed for pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont. Equipped with the cal. 9629 MC that has a plane-shaped rotor, the three references include a pair of regular production models in steel and rose gold, along with a 150-piece limited edition in a striking combination of yellow gold and blue lacquer. Initial Thoughts Cartier been using lacquer to decorate its jewellery, watches, and accessories almost since its founding in 1847. While a first for the brand in the modern-day – and also unique amongst watchmakers – last year’s lacquered Santos-Dumont was modelled on a similar 1920s watch, so it makes sense for the Parisian jeweller to continue with the theme. In this context, the highlight of the Santos-Dumont Skeleton collection is undoubtedly the yellow gold model with navy-blue lacquer inlays. Not only is the lacquer applied to the case and bezel as was the case with last year’s model, but it is applied to the movement bridges. The combination of lacquer, skeleton movement, and a whimsical plane-shaped rotor instantly sets it apart from other Cartier watches, yet it is still easily recognisable as a Cartier creation. This watch ce...
Hodinkee
We're going off the beaten path – in some cases, way off – with an Alaska Project Speedy, a Cartier diver and a superfast Zenith.
Worn & Wound
Late last year, Urwerk teamed up with artist Cooper Jacoby to create a special one-off version of their original 102 watch from 1997. We brought you live coverage of that watch prior to its auctioning, and wondered if we might see this form return in a fully fledged redesign of the 102, given the full redesign of the case. Today, we receive an answer to that question in the form of this UR102 Reloaded set of watches. The latest 102 gets the same case we saw featured in the one-off that fetched over $400,000 at auction, but misses out on that trick color-changing element that made that one so special. A fair trade off in my book, as I’m just happy to see this case make it into a production reference. The original 102 is an important part of Urwerk history, serving as their first platform and an ultimate proof of concept that’s since evolved in a variety of ways. There are no hands at work here, heck there’s barely even a dial, just a long wandering hour aperture tracing the time across a display arc at the top of the case. It’s simple, elegant, and looks just as fresh today as it did 25 years ago (though the inspiration for this design is much, much older). Indeed, the 102 represents many firsts for the brand, and these are represented within the rotating element of the dial itself, written above the broader celestial themed components. It provides a personal touch to the theme of the watch, without compromising the core themes at work. The disc elements themselves ...
Time+Tide
TGIF! But before we all get some must needed R&R; this weekend, especially with Watches & Wonders kicking off next week, there have been some interesting watch releases this week ahead of the biggest watch fair in the world – and from three independents no less! Let’s jump right into it. H. Moser & Cie … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Moser debuts new size, Czapek goes titanium, VIEREN brings Studio 54 vibes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Celebrity endorsements and brand partnerships can often come off as soulless, however there are the rare occasions that you can discern a genuine fondness behind the corporate lens. The luxury jeweller and watchmaker Chopard have been using the “Chopard Loves Cinema” slogan for quite some time, and the sentiment is definitely beyond the point of … ContinuedThe post New video collection goes backstage with Julia Roberts and Chopard appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Ulysse Nardin has shown it's possible to make a watch that has military inspiration (and benefits a good cause) without coming off as cosplay.
Deployant
In 2020, the world bore witness to something off the beaten path from Grand Seiko: an openworked, concept movement which incorporates a constant-force mechanism and a tourbillon as one unit on a single axis. This was the T0 Constant-force Tourbillon concept movement. While impressive, the T0 was an uncased, unwearable movement; it was not aRead More
SJX Watches
Blancpain kicked off the new year with the first of several editions to mark the 70th anniversary of its landmark dive watch, the Fifty Fathoms. While the first anniversary watch was essentially a no-frills, vintage-inspired diver, the next one is the opposite. With a diameter of 47 mm, the Fifty Fathoms “Tech Gombessa” is one of the largest watches ever made by Blancpain. While it still bears some resemblance to its brethren in the Fifty Fathoms line, it is distinct in terms of design (and size). And it also features a complication that’s new for the brand: a three-hour hand and corresponding elapsed-time bezel for extended-duration dives. In fact, the Tech Gombessa is the first in the new Tech Gombessa line of dive watches for professionals. Initial thoughts I expected a reissue of the original Fifty Fathoms for its 70th anniversary (as I’m sure did everyone else), so the first edition wasn’t a surprise. I had also hoped for something more modern, which is somewhat of an understatement for the “Act 2” of the anniversary line-up. The Tech Gombessa’s design is clearly inspired by the original, but with lots of updates, for better or worse. While the elapsed-time bezel is fairly conventional ceramic insert, the dial is big, bold, and orange, though the mixture of modern orange typography with the vintage-style logos and lettering feels conflicted. The case is oversized with no lugs, instead the case goes directly into the case, which should help with erg...
Worn & Wound
Sinn has released a new midsize diver with some big time specs to kick off their 2023 releases with the new T50. This is a watch that may seem familiar at a glance, as a follow up to the popular U50 released in 2020, but there’s plenty new here to set plenty of distance between the two, the biggest of which are the use of new materials, which include titanium and a new Sinn developed alloy called Goldbronze. This is a proprietary material that boasts some unique features in the service of longevity and functionality in true Sinn fashion. It looks pretty good, too. The T50 arrives in three main configurations, going from full Goldbronze in a limited edition 125, to a mix of titanium and Goldbronze in the GBDR, and finally a fully titanium example that forgoes the use of Goldbronze altogether. All look to share the same mid case design and proportions of the 41mm U50, which is a very good thing (see our review of the U50 here). This rather svelte and wearable package gets a remarkably stout 500 meter depth rating, and with the T50 adds Sinn’s Ar‑Dehumidifying inside the bottom left lug. The dial and bezel present the biggest departure from the U50 design language, departing from the brutal blocky design of the hands and hour markers in favor of a more approachable look that utilizes bar shaped hour markers and a pair of broadsword hands. The look may be more palatable to those who found the U50 a touch too aggressive, however it comes at the expense of a distinctivel...
Worn & Wound
Automotive inspired watches are never easy to pull off, but if there’s one brand that’s consistently done just that, it’s undoubtedly Autodromo. Their watches, from the Vallelunga to the Group B, all convey a deep knowledge and passion of the underlying inspiration in ways that aren’t always immediately apparent. Whether it’s the shape of the curvature of the case, or a specific colorway used, these watches go above and beyond what you’d expect. Today, Autodromo opens a new chapter in this story with the release of the Group C, a watch that will sit alongside the Group B, all while imparting a very different impression of the racing classes for which they are named. Group C as a category of racing was introduced by the FIA in 1982, and would produce some of the most iconic endurance racing cars of all time before its shuttering in 1993. Certainly defining cars of their era, which included the likes of the Jaguar XJR-8, the Sauber C9, the Porsche 956, and of course, the screaming Mazda 787B. These cars all came in something of a transition period for racing cars, with a slew of new rules and regulations meant to bring the sport more inline with Formula 1 quickly ushering in the class’ demise just prior to the 1993 championship race was due to be run at Magny Cours (though the cars were allowed entry to the 1994 running of the 24 Hours of LeMans, and would take the top 4 spots overall, with the Porsche 962 car 36 taking the win). This is the deep pool from wh...
Deployant
Branching off the all-encompassing Everywhere watch, the Krayon Anywhere presents itself as the more elegant, practical sunrise/sunset time wristwatch.
Time+Tide
While some are finally shaking the sentiment off, it is no secret that watch snobs love to dismiss and knock quartz watches. And, I get it. The quartz crisis nearly rendered the mechanical timepieces we all love extinct. So it is easy to understand why horology lovers are so protective of mechanical watchmaking. That being … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Solargraph may just be the perfect luxury adventure watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The week in drops and news, plus our ex-newbie picks a Grand Seiko and an off-topic ode to vintage Movado.
Time+Tide
Last year was a big year for Depancel, and 2023 is already getting off to a great start. The first Depancel Serie-A Allure was launched after crowdsourcing the design choices, resulting in a watch that guaranteed an adoring audience instantly. Some 500 pieces were made and sold, increasing the brand’s upwards trajectory and inspiring further … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Depancel Tangerine belongs to a tribe called zest appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Vario is a Singapore-based watch brand founded in 2016. Over the years, they have launched several watches with varying aesthetics though mostly drawing on historical watches as inspiration, such as their rugged 1918 Trench model. Their most recent model, the Versa, also pulls from the past, taking its inspirations from the Streamline/Art Deco era, but mixes in a reversible design for a watch that is both dual-time and dual-faced. A first, to our recollection, in the micro-brand space, the Versa is a surprising release that manages to be clever, while also quite affordable. Apart from the functionality, the Versa is also a rare, small-scale rectangular dress offering from a micro brand. Launched in three versions, the Versa is $428 and powered by not one, but two quartz calibers. For this hands-on, we’ll be taking a look at the blue variety. $428 Hands-On with the Vario Versa Case Stainless Steel Movement 2 x Ronda Slimtech 1062 Dial Silver/Blue Lume NA Lens 2 x Flat Sapphire Strap Black Leather Water Resistance 5 ATM Dimensions 26 x 40mm Thickness 18mm Lug Width 20mm Crown 2 x Push-pull Warranty Yes Price $428 Notable Specs and Features The Versa is a watch defined by a novel and enjoyable feature: it’s essentially two watches in one. The watch head consists of two main components, a frame, and a watch module. The module is created with two slim, small quartz watches mounted back to back, dials facing out, and crowns at twelve. The module is attached to the frame via ...
Time+Tide
LVMH Watch Week is back, and Zenith is bringing out the big guns to kick off 2023. And one of the biggest and boldest has to be the new limited-to-50 Defy Extreme Glacier chrono, a technological tour-de-force in a striking package that incorporates a unique material. The 45mm titanium case still retains the angular, architectural … ContinuedThe post LVMH Watch Week: The Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier brings intrigue with a subtle pop appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
We kick off 2023 with the first fair of the year, LVMH Watch Week, with its fourth edition being held in Singapore at the luxurious and scenic Capella Hotel. Wei speaks to Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, BVLGARI’s Product Creation Executive Director about the new Divas’ Dream floral collection and the Serpenti Tubogas Infinity. Stigliani details the […]
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