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Results for Windup Watch Fair New York

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Highlights: Magnificent Chinese Market Timepieces at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Museum’s extensive collection May 18, 2025

Highlights: Magnificent Chinese Market Timepieces at Phillips Hong Kong

The Geneva sales have wrapped up, but the spring auction season continues in Hong Kong, where Phillips will offer a collection of unexpected and wonderful pocket watches made for the Chinese market in the 18th and 19th centuries. As Europeans became enamored with Chinese goods such as tea, silk, and porcelain, the Chinese were equally enraptured by European watches and clocks, often adorned with miniature enamel painting, pearls, gemstones, and hand engraving. Genevan enamelling, in particular, was world-leading and adorned some of the most elaborate timepieces of the 19th century. Proof of that can be found in the Patek Philippe Museum’s extensive collection of Chinese market watches and clocks. Today, Chinese market watches seem alien in their lavish and ornate decoration. Collectors’ tastes have become homogenized over time, particularly today, which makes historical Chinese market watches stand out as a world unto themselves, both in style and mechanics. A mini collection of such watches will be sold during the first session of Phillips’ The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XX at 6:30 pm on May 23, 2025. The extraordinary miniature enamelling found on a clockwatch by L. Vrard & Co. Lot 801 – Perfume Sprinkler Pistol by Moulinié & Bautte & Cie Geneva historically specialized in the manufacture of oddly shaped “fantasy watches” watches during the early 19th century. Common forms include fruits, musical instruments, animals, and flowers. Some of the more exotic fanta...

Christopher Ward Answers the Call of their Enthusiast Fans with the The Twelve (Ti) Non-Fumé Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Answers May 16, 2025

Christopher Ward Answers the Call of their Enthusiast Fans with the The Twelve (Ti) Non-Fumé

Christopher Ward has smashed practically every boundary in their price bracket and continues to pick up loyal fans and newcomers like a cartoon snowball rolling down a mountainside. The Twelve-named somewhat confusingly for its dodecagonal bezel-has proven to be one of the brand’s most popular models, and likewise continues to expand its line of references since its inception in 2023. Responding to fan fervor, Christopher Ward has announced three The Twelve (Ti) Non-Fumé models to further round out The Twelve collection and prove to its followers that a little bit of fan-pleasing goes a long way. Each of the three new Non-Fumé models retains several distinctive characteristics from similar Grade 2 Titanium (or “Ti”) models, including a monotone dial finish, which has previously only been used for steel designs. The angular case wears at 40mm in diameter and 44.5mm lug-to-lug, giving it a significant, but not overbearing, presence on the wrist. Being titanium, the watch is a relatively lightweight 41 grams, and the screw-down crown at 3 o’clock paired with a screw-down display caseback ensures a fairly hardy 100 meters of water resistance.  Another shared element across the three Non-Fumé pieces is the repeating pattern on the dial, inspired by Christopher Ward’s “twin-flags” logo. When viewed at different angles-aided by the flat sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating-the motif’s texture reflects light back in varying ways. This type of t...

The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Returns in Rose Gold SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton has been making inroads May 14, 2025

The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Returns in Rose Gold

The recently resurrected Daniel Roth brand has added a second regular production model to its catalogue, the Extra Plat Rose Gold. It’s powered by the same DR002 movement found in the Extra Plat Souscription, a 20-piece limited edition in yellow gold with a solid case back, now with a sapphire case back to show off the handsome, shaped calibre inside. Image – Daniel Roth Initial Thoughts It’s no secret that Louis Vuitton has been making inroads into independent watchmaking, through collaborations with leading independents and the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize. Louis Vuitton has taken a more direct approach by reviving one of the first modern independents, and it seems to have paid off. Ironically, despite being the product of a luxury giant, the Daniel Roth Extra Plat is comparable to many offerings from niche makers, which can be seen as praise of the former or reproval of the latter. Image – Daniel Roth In another contradiction, the Extra Plat’s 7.7 mm height isn’t exactly extra-flat by the standards of a two-hand, manually wound dress watch. For comparison, the original Extra Plat Automatic from 1990 was 6.7 mm thick, and the manual version was only 6 mm. This can be attributed to the new movement, which is thicker than those in historical Extra Plat models, but constructed and finished to a much higher standard, while also being an in-house calibre (the originals were powered by Frederic Piguet). Image – Daniel Roth The new regular production has more mainst...

Zenith Defy Skyline Review Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Defy Skyline Review While May 13, 2025

Zenith Defy Skyline Review

While the El Primero movement architecture may serve as the face of the Zenith brand, it is the Defy collection that remains its soul. The Defy represents an historically significant ethos for Zenith, a creative foundation that is just as important to the Swiss brand’s past as it is to its future. Originally meant to be a showcase of innovation and ideas, the Defy collection serves dual purposes: to preserve and celebrate innovations of the past in the “Revival” subfamily, and to continue innovating for the future in the series’ other branches. In 2022, the brand took a big step toward the future of the collection with the release of the Zenith Defy Skyline, a watch that simultaneously looked to build on successful elements of the past and also to capitalize on the integrated-bracelet sport watch trend that had taken hold of the industry. The Zenith Defy collection has roots in the 1960s and ‘70s, when many of the brand’s most iconic and exciting references were released (you can read a more in-depth history here). Many of these have been reborn in the form of modern Revival references, allowing a new generation of enthusiasts to discover them again, or for the first time. These designs weren’t afraid to take risks, from the shape of the case, to the bracelet integration, right into the dial colors and textures. The Defy name quickly came to signify a huge amount of character, and that’s on full display within the brand’s current stable.  In finding a mo...

Introducing - The Impressive Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Returns in Black Ceramic and Sapphire Crystal Cases Monochrome
Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Returns May 12, 2025

Introducing - The Impressive Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Returns in Black Ceramic and Sapphire Crystal Cases

Hublot has never shown a reverence for conservative watchmaking. Starting with its explosively named Big Bang collection, Hublot revels in innovative material combinations and loud, audacious designs. However, when it comes to showing off its horological muscles, Hublot’s Masterpiece suite is where you’ll find the most technically complex models. Last year, Hublot inducted another Masterpiece […]

The One-Off White Gold Universal Genève SAS Polerouter Heads To Auction Fratello
Breitling purchased May 8, 2025

The One-Off White Gold Universal Genève SAS Polerouter Heads To Auction

While there are no official announcements on new releases from the reborn Universal Genève, we do have news. To refresh your memory, Breitling purchased the brand in December 2023 from Stelux Holdings. It has been made clear that new models, along with authorized retailers, wouldn’t emerge until 2026. However, three “new” one-off SAS Polerouter references […] Visit The One-Off White Gold Universal Genève SAS Polerouter Heads To Auction to read the full article.

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces May 3, 2025

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25”

In what’s become an annual tradition, Tudor has just revealed a special edition on the eve of the Miami Grand Prix. But unlike last year’s Black Bay “Chameleon” destined only for the drivers of the Visa Cash App RB Formula 1 Team (VCARB), the Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” is a commercially available timepiece – but in a limited edition of 2,025 pieces. The Carbon 25 is presented in a carbon composite case, matched with a domed dial in the colours of the VCARB team that also sports carbon composite registers. Initial thoughts I’m a fan of Tudor in general, mainly because of the strong value proposition the brand offers in all its watches. The chronographs stand out as amongst the best in the price segment. However, the chronographs in steel are a little thick and weighty; the Carbon 25 definitely reduces the weight substantially, and it’s also a tiny bit slimmer. Tudor already has a carbon-case chronograph in the collection (that is actually thinner), but the Carbon 25 has a more appealing case design that retains all of the elements of the steel case, including the bevelled lugs. One detail that stands out are the carbon composite inserts in between the lugs that give the strap a better visual integration into the case. I like the Carbon 25, enough that I would buy one, but the watch is the most expensive chronographs in the Tudor catalogue, with a price of US$7,575. It is still well priced compared to the competition, but priced substantially more expensi...

The Greatest Horologists You’ve Never Heard Of: James Cox (c.1723 - 1800) - Early Entrepreneur & Creator of Elaborate and Decorative Timepieces Worn & Wound
Apr 29, 2025

The Greatest Horologists You’ve Never Heard Of: James Cox (c.1723 - 1800) - Early Entrepreneur & Creator of Elaborate and Decorative Timepieces

James Cox (c.1723-1800) was a British jeweler, goldsmith and entrepreneur and the proprietor of Cox’s Museum. Cox produced lavishly ornamented automata for trade with the Far East, first with India and then with China, where the reception of his ‘toys’ or ‘sing-songs’, as the Chinese are believed to have called them, was at first a huge success. Cox was an extraordinary gentleman living in 18th century London. This was a time of great opulence with the wealthiest showing their status through objects they commissioned and owned. Cox was a clockmaker, jeweler, and entrepreneur known for creating elaborate and decorative timepieces, automata, and mechanical curiosities. He gained fame for his luxury goods, which were highly sought after by the elite. Cox’s work blended mechanical innovation with exquisite craftsmanship, producing items that were not just functional but also ornamental and artistic. Cox’s career as a jeweler began as early as 1751, and his automata were designed by leading artists including Johann Zoffany and Joseph Nollekens. In the 1760s, John Joseph Merlin became his apprentice. Though he declared himself a goldsmith, he employed several jewelers and manufacturers who would have done much of the work. Jewel cabinet with watch signed James Cox, c.1765-70. Image courtesy of the Met Museum This cabinet is an excellent example of an exquisite item made by Cox and bearing his signature. On its doors are enameled personifications of Winter and S...

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s Pateks Zeniths Apr 27, 2025

A Week in Watches Ep. 102 - The Indies of April

Watches & Wonders may have wrapped a few weeks ago, flooding everyone’s feeds with Tudors, Rolexes, Grand Seikos, Pateks, Zeniths, and more than a few Hublots-but we’re not diving into any of that today. Instead, on episode 102 of A Week in Watches, we take a step back from the hype and turn our attention to the quieter-but no less exciting-independent releases that emerged around the same time. April was surprisingly packed with creative drops from small brands doing things their own way, and while the big names stole the headlines, the indies delivered some of the most interesting watches of the month. Before diving into a few standout releases-yes, including that particularly “crazy” one-here’s a quick heads-up: Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2025 is just around the corner. It’s happening May 2nd through 4th at the Gateway Pavilion in Fort Mason Park. Over 80 brands will be there, it’s free, and it’s open to all. If you’re on the West Coast, swing by. Full details and the exhibitor list are up now at windupwatchfair.com. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 102 – The Indies of April appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Introducing: Qian GuoBiao’s Facing The Sky 2.0 - Marking A Skyward Vision Reborn Fratello
Apr 27, 2025

Introducing: Qian GuoBiao’s Facing The Sky 2.0 - Marking A Skyward Vision Reborn

Independent watchmaking has a knack for unearthing hidden gems in the most unexpected places. In this case, that place is Ninghai, China, home to master watchmaker Qian GuoBiao. His latest creation, Facing the Sky 2.0, marks the return of a concept he first unveiled back in 2018. The original Facing the Sky, a bold 43mm […] Visit Introducing: Qian GuoBiao’s Facing The Sky 2.0 - Marking A Skyward Vision Reborn to read the full article.

Studio Underd0g Introduces the Av0cado and Guacam0le Chronographs, a Clever Response to their Imitators Worn & Wound
Studio Underd0g Introduces Apr 24, 2025

Studio Underd0g Introduces the Av0cado and Guacam0le Chronographs, a Clever Response to their Imitators

In our current age of disingenuous AI and copyright controversies, sometimes the best way to beat a design thief is to…imitate them right back? In perhaps the cheekiest move we’ve ever seen a watchmaker execute in response to an influx of copycat designs from no-name brands, Studio Underd0g has done just that. Instead of taking the legal route-an endeavour that is time-consuming, costly, and largely pointless in today’s world of mass-production and dropshipping-the British watchmaker has employed a tactful play of horological judo, and  produced two new models inspired wholeheartedly by the very designs stolen from them. Enter the Av0cado and Guacam0le, just as colorful, cheerful, and charismatic as the rest of their lineup, with an extra dollop of good humor on the side.  Take one look at the knockoffs from a myriad of random “brands” and you’ll see what Studio Underd0g is talking about. The color schemes, design cues, and even text details are shamelessly ripped straight from the authentic watchmaker’s catalog. This is, of course, the sharp side of the double-edged sword for a brand with a visual style as instantly recognizable as Studio Underd0g’s, even given their relative youth as a company; when you create a style that resonates with so many people, you’re bound to have imitators.  They haven’t cut any corners with the Av0cado and Guacam0le, though, despite the comedic backstory. Both are in direct response to a company called Proxima’s k...

Retrospective: True Joy With A 100-Plus-Year-Old Plato Flip Clock Fratello
Apr 24, 2025

Retrospective: True Joy With A 100-Plus-Year-Old Plato Flip Clock

I feel a strong sense of nostalgia for the old flipping scoreboards I remember from my childhood. That’s probably why I adore digital jump-hour watches and quartz flip clocks so much. When I first saw the Plato Clock, patented in 1903, I froze in amazement. I believe I’m pretty strong when it comes to controlling […] Visit Retrospective: True Joy With A 100-Plus-Year-Old Plato Flip Clock to read the full article.

First Look - An Unexpected Move from Bremont with the Terra Nova Jumping Hour models Monochrome
Bremont Apr 23, 2025

First Look - An Unexpected Move from Bremont with the Terra Nova Jumping Hour models

Since Bremont changed hands in 2023, concerns arose that the rugged, aviation-themed watches of the British brand, founded by the English brothers, would disappear under Davide Cerrato’s management. Now that the dust has settled and Bremont has reinstated its iconic Trip-Tick case with its MB (Martin-Baker) Altitude models, the brand appears to be back on […]

G-SHOCK Helps Casio Ring in their 50th Year in Watches with the GMC-B2100ZE Worn & Wound
Casio Ring Apr 22, 2025

G-SHOCK Helps Casio Ring in their 50th Year in Watches with the GMC-B2100ZE

One of the only bad things that came out of me getting rid of my Facebook account was that I have no idea when anyone’s birthdays are anymore. Now, I have just two options. I either have to awkwardly ask my friend of seventeen years if she’s the 15th or the 19th of June (only to be told it’s December 7th) or I cut them out of my life completely, not being able to face that embarrassment. The same goes for anniversaries. I only remember my parents’ anniversary because they honeymooned at Dollywood and I think that’s something worth remembering. And I’ve cheated a little to remember my own anniversary as it’s a bit mneumonical: my husband and I began dating on January 1 and we got married on November 11. I’m surely going to be in big trouble with my second husband. All the good dates have been taken. What I really need, I think, to remember an anniversary is a watch to commemorate it (or, at the very least, a press release sent to a bunch of journalists to write about). That is, in fact, what Casio did for their 50th anniversary in watchmaking with a new G-SHOCK earlier this month, a black and gold all-metal version of their GMC-B2100 series. Like others in the B2100 collection, the anniversary edition has the now-iconic octagonal shape, but rendered in stainless steel. Coming in a black and gold motif, one may think this colorway is a nod to my own Pittsburgh heritage; but you’d be mistaken. According to Casio, this particular color combination represents ...

Bulova Marine Star Heritage: Quartz Precision with a Smooth Sweep Two Broke Watch Snobs
Bulova Marine Star Heritage Quartz Apr 22, 2025

Bulova Marine Star Heritage: Quartz Precision with a Smooth Sweep

Quartz movements get a bad rap from mechanical purists-and I'll never get it. The ticking second hand can apparently leave you feeling cold, especially when you’re used to the smooth sweep of an automatic. But for me, that’s always been a bit unfair. The real question isn’t whether quartz can match mechanicals-it's whether it should have to. Bulova’s HPQ (High-Performance Quartz) Precisionist movement is out to prove that quartz doesn’t just get the job done.

Hands-On: a Few Weeks with the James Brand Elko Worn & Wound
Rado 3.50 inches It goes Apr 21, 2025

Hands-On: a Few Weeks with the James Brand Elko

For many pocket-dumping EDCers, the knife has pride of place in one’s kit. Bags are commonly rotated depending on the use-case. You likely wouldn’t bring a hiking rucksack to the office. Watches, too, are usually swapped out daily (and for our crowd… maybe more). However, a good pocket knife can be a consistent staple in one’s everyday carry. Especially one small enough to fit conveniently on your keyring – like the Elko from the James Brand – which I’ve gotten to put through its paces the past few weeks. My love of pocket knives predates my watch collecting interests by over a decade. In fact, getting into the mechanical minutiae of blades likely helped pave my way into the field of horology. I think knives are one of the best tools to keep with you daily, and as a result, I’ve lost more than a handful to unplanned metal detectors and security screening processes. So it goes. Therefore, I’m always looking to increase the size of my collection and have a variety of styles on hand, so I’m never without one close by. My knife collection ranges widely, though I tend to opt for blades that are legal to conceal in Colorado: 3.50 inches. It goes without saying that this measurement changes based on someone’s country and state, so do your own research here. The Elko is well under my state’s legal limit – the blade is a petite 1.74 inches – with a total length, including the handle, of 4.33 inches I was smitten with the Elko from the moment of my unboxi...

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Trematic Archive One 502 Worn & Wound
Apr 20, 2025

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Trematic Archive One 502

There’s that moment we all know too well-you’re deep in the rabbit hole of late-night doom scrolling through Instagram’s discovery feed, mindlessly thumbing through the same photos. Then, suddenly, one catches your eye and stops you dead in your tracks. You actually click on the post, you spread the image to zoom in, and then you do the unthinkable and read the caption. That is exactly how I ended up discovering Trematic and this specific model, the Archive One 501. I was completely unfamiliar with the brand, which, when combined with a design language that spoke to me, immediately sparked my curiosity. Specifically, it was the typeface used for the indices. Those quirky, alien-like 4, 6, and 10 markers, cast in rose gold tone, immediately grabbed my attention. They looked like something from a different time, maybe from a different planet, yet the watch overall felt refreshingly modern. A worn-out phrase lately, but the blend of vintage style and contemporary sensibilities didn’t feel tired, which is something I can’t say about many “retro-inspired” designs in the microbrand space. For those who haven’t encountered Trematic, let me give you a quick rundown: the brand dates back to the 1950s but faded into obscurity after the Quartz Crisis, just like many of its contemporaries. In 2022, Daniele Campagnano breathed new life into the brand, seeking to revive its forgotten legacy. The first model to re-enter the market was the Zy6, a watch we recently mentio...

Our Favorites from Watches & Wonders 2025 Worn & Wound
Massena Lab called Apr 18, 2025

Our Favorites from Watches & Wonders 2025

Did Watches & Wonders even happen if we don’t do a full team “Best Of” post? Hopefully, we’ll never find out. The verdict on this year’s show seems to be that it was stronger than expected, with plenty of iterative releases, but iterative releases that people generally seem to like, and want to buy (a good thing for the industry at a tricky moment, for sure). One thing that we get more sure of every year, though, is that no matter what the consensus happens to be on the show itself, there are always great watches there, and our contributors and Editorial team pick their favorites below. Zach Weiss  One of the best experiences at Watches & Wonders is simply being surprised. We often go into meetings having already read the press releases, and thus pretty much know what to expect. Well, this year I had the rare and fun opportunity to go in fairly blind to my meeting with Angelus as I simply hadn’t gone through their materials yet, and as a relatively quiet “indie” (quotes because they are technically under the umbrella of Citizen, though clearly operate independently), their watches hadn’t been splashed across my social media yet. So, with fresh eyes, I was presented this year’s main novelty, a trio of exceptional chronographs that I haven’t stopped thinking about since. In 2023, Angelus debuted the Le Fabrique collection via a collaboration with Massena LAB called the Chronographe Médical. A spiritual recreation of an archival piece, this monopusher ...