Hodinkee
Retailer Spotlight: Kirk Jewelers In Miami, FL
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Results for Mechanical vs Quartz
3,073 articles · 483 videos found · page 112 of 119
Hodinkee
Time+Tide
Vitamin D for the wrist: 9 of the best sunburst dials money can buy
The dial truly is the make or break factor when it comes to a timepiece. Think about human beings in general – we’re largely simple creatures and we’re drawn to pretty things. I mean, just look at the state of the dating world: apps that make you judge a person quite literally on their face … ContinuedThe post Vitamin D for the wrist: 9 of the best sunburst dials money can buy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Tribute To Peter Baumberger (1939-2010): RIP You Complete And Utter Bastard!
This year, 2020, marks the tenth anniversary of the death of one of the greats of the modern watch industry, Peter Baumberger. Dr. Helmut Crott, his longtime friend and founder of the Dr. Crott auction house in Germany, recently sent me a tribute he had written for the occasion. But first I’d like to first take the opportunity to share an anecdote of my own regarding “Peter, the utter bastard,” as I will always (fondly) think of him.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Silver Archetype One Review – Breaking Down A Tudor Submariner Homage
Owning a vintage Tudor Submariner is probably not in the cards for me. Luckily, I was able to borrow the Archetype One from Silver Watch Company. It’s an unapologetic homage to the Tudor Submariners. Could it scratch the itch?
SJX Watches
Parmigiani Fleurier Introduces the Toric Tourbillon Red Gold Slate
The very first case designed by Michel Parmigiani when he founded his eponymous brand, the elegant Toric is now primarily used for haute horlogerie watches. The latest to join the line up is the Toric Tourbillon Red Gold Slate, an extra-thin wristwatch with a flying tourbillon. Initial thoughts Though Parmigiani has tried its hand at contemporary case designs, its true strength is still classical style that references Breguet and other past century greats that Mr Parmigiani is familiar with thanks to his background in watch restoration. So it is with the Toric Tourbillon. Despite being relatively simple in style, the watch is immediately recognisable as a Parmigiani. It has a strongly balanced aesthetic between the guilloché dial, knurled bezel and flying tourbillon. But the prominent “Tourbillon 60 Secondes” label on the dial detracts from the clean style of the dial. Also, the 42.8mm case, though slim, might be a point of contention as it is on the large side for a slightly formal watch. Styling aside, Parmigiani quality is impeccable, for both the internal and external components. In that respect, there’s little to criticise. Toric tradition The very first watch designed by Mr Parmigiani when he launched his brand in 1996 was the Toric Memory Time, a slim, dual time zone watch. Though slightly tweaked, the current Toric case sticks closely to the design of the original, particularly with the prominent knurled bezel that is decorated by a hand-operated machine...
Hodinkee
Business News: Baselworld Cancels 2021 Show
"Rolexit" sinks the next show, but Baselworld vows to explore new formats.
Time+Tide
The hidden party trick that makes the Jaeger‑LeCoultre Master Control Calendar a (relatively) accessible work of art
The thing about understated magnificence is that, at first glance, it’s often overlooked. And then it happens. The “why-Miss-Jones-without-your-glasses-you’re-beautiful” moment. Suddenly noticed, the full force of its charm slaps you sharply in the face, to leave you genuflecting with slack-jawed wonder and a slightly goofy smile. This is how I feel about the just-released Jaeger‑LeCoultre … ContinuedThe post The hidden party trick that makes the Jaeger‑LeCoultre Master Control Calendar a (relatively) accessible work of art appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Recommended Reading: John Goldberger on Life, Collecting, and Home
A tall man with a grave face who is always stylishly dressed, Auro Montanari is better known as John Goldberger, the pseudonym under which he has published over a dozen scholarly books dedicated to watches. Auro is best characterised as someone with diverse and deep interests, making him a truly interesting individual. So speaking with Auro is always a pleasure, which is something Phillips specialist Tiffany To recently managed to do. At home, stylishly. Photo – Auro Montanari Now at home in Bologna, a wealthy industrial hub that’s home to Lamborghini, Auro is putting the finishing touches to Time to Race, a near-500 page tome covering the watches worn by auto-racing champions of the mid-20th century, an era when drivers wore watches as a necessity, and not because they were brand ambassadors. Auro’s desktop with Time to Race in progress. Photo – Auro Montanari Highlights from Time to Race. Photo – Auro Montanari In a three-part interview, Auro discusses the upcoming book – “I love cars, I love watches, and I put them together and blend everything” – as well as his varied life. Though Auro is a industrial-control software entrepreneur by profession, his interests have taken him around the world in a hunt for watches, and he also lived the Californian dream for a spell in the 1980s. Auro, circa 1982. Photo – Auro Montanari The white gold ref. 3450. Photo – Auro Montanari He describes the years spent in Venice Beach, during which he chanced upon a whi...
SJX Watches
Pandemic Truths – Edouard Meylan of H. Moser & Cie.
A time of crisis is always a good moment to reflect – especially when confined to the home – so we spoke with key personalities in watchmaking to see what they’re doing. As the pandemic-inflected reality faced by major brands and independents are necessarily different, here are the views from one of the big “small” brands, H. Moser & Cie. Its young and straight-forward chief executive, Edouard Meylan, answers our questions, in part one of Pandemic Truths. Like almost everyone at the moment, Edouard is working from home, which is just a few minutes away from the H. Moser & Cie. factory in Schaffhausen. Edouard’s work-from-home desk. Photo – Edouard Meylan How does this crisis impacted your business, in productions, distribution, or people? Obviously, this crisis has a global impact as it creates uncertainty in both supply and demand. How can I produce watches when my suppliers are closed and I want to make sure my employees are safe? And even if I were able to produce, where do I sell when all my stores and distributors are closed? Today only four of my retailers are still open. But it is probably easier for us as we can easily ship directly to consumers. We have been very lucky to exhibit during the Dubai watch exhibitions [primarily LVMH Watch Week] early in January. We were able to introduce our novelties and get pre-orders. We are delivering them today, so business is almost as usual for the moment. We have launched our certified pre-owned platform last m...
SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces the Superocean Heritage ’57 Capsule Collection
Following the Navitimer 1 Airline Editions and the Aviator 8 Curtiss P-40 Warhawk, Breitling has now introduced its next limited-production capsule collection, the Superocean Heritage ’57. Modelled on the brand’s first dive watch, the SuperOcean ref. 1004, the new range also includes a lively rainbow limited edition with multi-coloured hour markers. As scuba diving and other aquatic sports became popular in the early 1950s, dive watches being a thing, with the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Rolex Submariner and Omega Seamaster 300 all making their debut that decade. Breitling’s entry into the dive watch stakes as the SuperOcean. While the watch is now less known than its contemporaries, the SuperOcean had a strikingly bold and unusual design despite being some six decades old. It was characterised by a wide bezel with a concave surface intended to protect the domed acrylic crystal, and a dial featuring dagger-shaped indices with additional oversized spheres at the quarters. The quirky, retro style has been reintroduced in full with the Superocean Heritage ’57. Superocean Heritage ’57 Capsule Collection The capsule collection consists of three iterations: in stainless steel with a blue or black dial, and a steel case with a rose-gold bezel paired with a black dial. All are powered by the COSC-certified Breitling Caliber 10, which is an ETA 2892-A2. Entirely polished, the case measures 42 mm wide and 9.99 mm high, making it 4 mm thinner than the standard Superocean He...
Quill & Pad
Winners & Losers In The Watch World Of 2021 And Beyond: There Will Be Fairs, Jim, But Not As We Knew Them
The point of the large watch fairs is (or was) the sheer scale of their visitor numbers. In no other venue can brands meet with so many clients, collectors and press, and vice versa. If a large fair is limited in visitor capacity by health restrictions, can it still dominate the launch cycles of big brands? Ian Skellern examines likely winners and losers of the brave new world of exhibitions in 2021.
Deployant
New and hands-on review: Glashütte Original Sixties Annual Edition 2020
Hands on review of the new, recently announced Glashütte Original Sixties Annual Edition 2020. We take a close look and give your our views.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Swatch Sistem51 Petite Seconde
After its release in 2013, the Swatch Sistem51 collection has proven itself as a fun, geeky, and affordable option for the mechanically-obsessed collector looking for more out of the Swatch brand.
Hodinkee
Watch Madness: The 2020 HODINKEE Talking Watches Tournament, Day 2
In which Andretti and Nicklaus face off, on a neutral playing field.
Time+Tide
EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: Joseph’s murdered out Seiko 5 Sports SRPD79K1 on integrated rubber Crafter Blue strap is a cold killer
Last year, we aired the first series of ‘Every Watch Tells A Story’ on YouTube. The premise is as simple as it gets. When we invite raucous crowds into the Time+Tide home base for events, occasionally we offer them the chance to tell the story of their watch. Which promptly explains why everyone in these … ContinuedThe post EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: Joseph’s murdered out Seiko 5 Sports SRPD79K1 on integrated rubber Crafter Blue strap is a cold killer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces the Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887
One of the most exotic Breguet watches in production today, the Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 combines a tourbillon regulator, perpetual calendar, and running equation of time. Complexity aside, the watch is mechanically fascinating: the traditional complications within are executed in a modern and practical way. The equation of time, for instance, relies on an open-worked cam produced via the high-tech LIGA photolithography technique. And the tourbillon cage is lightweight titanium with a silicon escapement, while the automatic winding is equipped with a peripheral rotor. Breguet has now introduced a new version of the grand complication, in pink gold with a slate-grey dial. While it is mechanically identical to the two earlier versions – in platinum with a blue dial or pink gold with a silver dial – the new watch is striking and harmonious, shedding a bit of the sports-watch aesthetic of the Marine by way of the richer colours. Being a facelift, the dimensions of the watch remain unchanged. It is still a massive 43.9 mm in width, though a svelte 11.75 mm high, thanks to the ultra-thin movement inside. Like the movement, aesthetics across the case and dial are very much a blend of new and old. The case has the traditional fluted band, but is paired with modern integrated lugs. Similarly, the dial is solid gold and decorated with traditionally-executed guilloche engraved with a rose engine, but in a modern, stylised wave motif. In a nod to the age-o...
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Romain Gauthier Logical One Byzantine
The Romain Gauthier Logical One was launched in 2013 to critical acclaim, and clinched the year’s award for Best Men’s Complication at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). While centred on the very old idea of a chain and fusée, the Logical One stood in contrast to contemporary wristwatches with the same complication. Other watchmakers sought, single-mindedly, to miniaturise the chain and fusée – doubtlessly a feat of micro-engineering – but Romain Gauthier took a step forward and developed a truly modern incarnation of the constant-force mechanism that originated in the 15th century. And contrary to well-known makers of the chain and fusée today, most notably A. Lange & Söhne, Romain Gauthier ensured the chain and fusée in the Logical One is entirely visible on the dial. Since its debut, the Logical One has been iterated multiple times, with variations covering the spectrum from traditional to ultra-contemporary. The attractiveness of the many versions vary – some are overdone – while others are a perfect fit for the impressive movement. One that works perfectly is the unique Logical One Byzantine that has the striking combination of a blue enamel dial and movement bridges bridges engraved with a motif inspired by Byzantine art. (Though this specific combination is unique, similar-looking examples have been produced, for instance with blue sub-dials but without engraving.) Case and architecture Due to the complex architecture of the movemen...
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces the Classique 7137 and Classique 7337
Perhaps the quintessential modern Breguet watches, having been in the line-up for decades, the Classique 7137 and Classique 7337 have elegant proportions and classical dials that showcase the exacting art of traditional engine-turning. And they have just been face-lifted, retaining the traditional look while getting sleeker engine-turning and a streamlined moon phase. Though the changes are slight, the watches differ significantly in look and feel from the initial versions. Unusually, the new dial is also offered in dark blue (with a white gold case), historically an uncommon colour for Breguet. The other combination is the conventional rose gold with a silver dial. Both models feature a slim, 39 mm case with straight lugs and a reeded case band. Mechanically, they are identical to the earlier generation versions. The movements of both watches vary in height and calendar complications, but they share the same ultra-thin cal. 502.3 as the base. The Classique 7337 in pink gold with a silver dial Before going on to the details of the two, it’s worth a quick look at their history. The two models are descended from the refs. 3137 and 3337 respectively, both watches designed by the independent watchmaker Daniel Roth when he helped create the modern Breguet identity in the late 1970s. Mr Roth, in turn, was inspired by important, 19th century Breguet pocket watches; he successfully translated Breguet’s glorious past into the modern era. Being small watches by modern standard...
Quill & Pad
Hautlence HL Vagabonde Tourbillon: Not All Those Who Wander Are Lost
The Hautlence HL Vagabonde Tourbillon has the perfect nom de guerre for a watch that both mechanically wanders and represents an attitude upholding its values of exploration, creativity, and innovation. Joshua Munchow explains how this watch works and what sets it apart from other tourbillon models.
Deployant
Chillout TGIF: Canon EOS R and lenses
We took the Canon EOS R and 3 lenses out for a two week daily use spin, courtesy of Canon Singapore. Here is our take on the system.
Time+Tide
What should you do when a knife-wielding maniac tries to steal your Rolex?
Picture the scene: it’s a dark night and you’re leaving work when suddenly a man in a balaclava accosts you, waving a 12-inch knife in your face. Give me your Rolex or I’ll “f***ing stab” you, he yells. This was the nerve-jangling scene that confronted Mark Ewart last week as he left his business, … ContinuedThe post What should you do when a knife-wielding maniac tries to steal your Rolex? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: William Wood The Red Watch
Emerging watchmakers face the near-Sisyphean task of standing out in a sea of low-budget options all vying for market dominance and social media influence. When William Wood’s founder Jonny Garrett launched a crowdfunding campaign to commemorate his grandfather’s heroics in the British Fire Service, the passion in the story clearly resonated with the thousands of … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: William Wood The Red Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
In Conversation with Japanese Watchmaking Legend Kikuo Ibe
Wei Koh ticks off meeting yet another industry legend on his list of greats, sitting down with the father of the G-SHOCK, Kikuo Ibe.
Time+Tide
Post Malone’s insane watch collection Part 1: With Rockstar Ratings
GQ just dropped the latest video from their On The Rocks series, with the face-tatted hip-hop heavyweight that is Post Malone. His watch collection is nothing short of unreal – it’s a “hypebeasts” delight … which suits Posty down to the ground. But as is the case with just about everything in life, not all … ContinuedThe post Post Malone’s insane watch collection Part 1: With Rockstar Ratings appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Young Japanese Watchmaker Norifumi Seki Makes His Debut
Just 23 years old – he was born in 1997 – Norifumi Seki graduated from watchmaking school last year, and recently completed his first timepiece, the Sphere Moon Phase Pocket Watch. Though inspired by the works of past watchmakers, Mr Seki’s creation is surprisingly novel in both aesthetics and construction, especially since it is essentially a school project. Based in Tokyo, Mr Seki has trod a short path to create this impressive watch. After graduating from junior high school, which is for children aged 12 to 15 in Japan, his interest in mechanics and craftsmanship led him to fabricate simple objects, including a beautifully-made folding knife. Inspiration In 2016, Mr Seki met Masahiro Kikuno – arguably Japan’s most interesting contemporary watchmaker – who inspired him to manufacture a watch by hand. And so at age 18, Mr Seki entered Hiko Mizuno College of Jewelry, a school in Tokyo’s Shibuya district that also teaches watchmaking and shoemaking. During his final year in school, Mr Seki started on his own watch. It’s a large pocket watch with a regulator-style time display, oversized date and month indicators, along with an extra-large spherical moon phase. Spherical moon and drum calendar Made entirely of titanium, the moon phase is 20 mm in diameter and set via a recessed pusher in the case band. A third of the sphere is heat-blued titanium, while the other is coated in gold. Show in two large windows, each containing two drums for the digits, the cale...
Time+Tide
Why you need a Perpetual Calendar watch on your wrist, today of all days
The perpetual calendar watch is among the most useful complicated watches, as well as one of the most mechanically sophisticated – and it truly comes into its own today, a leap year day. Its complexity is what sets it apart from other calendar watches. The simplest calendar watch has just a date function, driven by gears … ContinuedThe post Why you need a Perpetual Calendar watch on your wrist, today of all days appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Complication made simple with the Moser Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept
Editor’s note: When it comes to stunning dials and complicated movements made simple, no one does it better than Moser. The Moser Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept in red gold is one such example, with an enchanting fumé dial and a perpetual moon phase that is so simply laid out, those not in the know might … ContinuedThe post Complication made simple with the Moser Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
3 reasons why the Coronavirus is really bad news for the luxury watch industry
At the time of writing, the Coronavirus outbreak has already infected more than 70,500 people in China and resulted in 1770 deaths. It’s forced the quarantine of more than 50 million people in China and resulted in travel and visa restrictions to more than 70 countries. If that’s not bad enough, a new article in … ContinuedThe post 3 reasons why the Coronavirus is really bad news for the luxury watch industry appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Out of this world: These are 4 of the most attractive moon phases money can buy
While watches equipped with a moon phase complication aren’t without their detractors, for the astronomically inclined, they are wonderful devices. And, from an aesthetic standpoint, timepieces just tend to look better when they sport some form of moon on their dial. Don’t believe us? Well, take a look at these four watches … maybe they’ll … ContinuedThe post Out of this world: These are 4 of the most attractive moon phases money can buy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
A Deep Dive Into The Award-Winning Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune
One of Joshua Munchow's favorite watches from 2019, winning the Calendar and Astronomy prize at the 2019 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève, was the Hermès Arceau L'Heure de la Lune. Not only is it a stunning double moon phase watch with wandering dials, but also features an incredible module designed by Jean-François Mojon and his team at Chronode. Take a deep drive into it here with Joshua.