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Monochrome
The high-end independent watch brand born from a passion for 1960s-1970s automotive design, Singer Reimagined was founded in 2017 by Rob Dickinson (of Singer Vehicle Design) and watch designer Marco Borraccino with motors produced by master watchmaker Jean-Marc Wiederrecht (Agenhor). Departing from its lineup of track-ready chronographs, Singer introduced the DualTrack, a GMT with an […]
Fratello
When it comes to vintage watches, few brands have as much depth as Rolex. Over more than a century, the company has produced an enormous range of models, references, and variations that have become firmly established among collectors. From tool watches built for specific purposes to understated everyday models, there’s plenty to explore beyond the […] Visit Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Vintage Rolex Models to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Rolex expands its complicated offerings with the unexpected Perpetual Padellone, a vintage-inspired, instantaneous annual calendar named after the ref. 8171, a saucepan-shaped triple calendar from Rolex’s past. Despite the padellone nickname, first coined by Italian collectors, the Perpetual Padellone is a very different watch from its namesake. It is a modern Rolex through and through, with the quality and functions expected of a modern Rolex. The mechanics are latest generation, with aesthetic choices give the watch a contemporary look, putting the Perpetual Padellone at the intersection between vintage collectors and the wider public. Initial Thoughts Rolex is a forward-looking brand, which explains why this Padellone goes without the namesake sauce pan-esque case, and employs a base movement at the frontier of mechanical timekeeping. The Padellone of today is naturally a far better watch than the ref. 8171 “Padellone” of the 1950s. It is modern and it is a Rolex, which means essentially perfect quality. A very well-preserved 8171 in steel But it is more than just a triple calendar built to Rolex standards. The new Padellone contains an incredible base movement shared with the Land-Dweller, a new calendar that changes instantaneously around midnight and can handle both 30- and 31-day months on its own, and a moon phase that will err by a day in 122 years. Then, there are also the dramatic upgrades to finishing – both outside and in – and build quality, especia...
Worn & Wound
Big news from Rolex today as the brand has released a complicated dress watch, their first in recent memory. The Perpetual Padellon is an instantaneous annual calendar with a moonphase complication and sits within the 1908 collection, which launched three years ago. This new watch appears to be a very explicit and direct homage to one of the brand’s most revered vintage references, the 8171 “Padellone”. It shares more than a few visual characteristics with that piece, and of course the name of the new watch is lifted straight from the nickname given to the vintage piece by collectors and dealers. The Perpetual Padellone is available in 18k Everose gold and 950 platinum, and measures 39mm in diameter, 12.2mm tall, and 45.1mm from lug to lug. It’s worth noting that the original 8171 was a fairly large watch for its day, measuring 38mm in diameter, so the new reference comes surprisingly close to being right on the money in terms of sizing if we’re comparing it to the vintage watch. The biggest difference between the 8171 and the Perpetual Padellone is likely mechanical. The 8171 was not a true annual or perpetual calendar, but a “simple” triple calendar, which was quite common in the 1950s. Each indicator simply advanced in sequence and not in relation to any other, which means a correction is going to be necessary virtually every month. The Perpetual Padellone is a true annual calendar and only needs to be corrected once per year. The case, whether plati...
Fratello
Rolex has added a rather unexpected complication to its Perpetual collection with the new Perpetual Padellone. Taking its name from the vintage reference 8171, the watch combines a 39mm case with an annual calendar and a moonphase display. At first glance, it is perhaps the dial that grabs your attention, particularly the blue enamel moonphase […] Visit Hot Take: Rolex’s Perpetual Padellone Annual Calendar Takes A Nod From The Past to read the full article.
Monochrome
Since its launch in 2022, the Citizen Tsuyosa (a Japanese word for strength) has been a strong success for the brand and is now a leading option in the value proposition segment. Originally released in 40mm steel cases with a 3-link steel bracelet and a rough-looking entry-level movement, Citizen has vastly expanded the collection over the years […]
Monochrome
Founded by brothers Alberto and Alessandro Morelli in 2017, Venezianico is a Venice-based brand, originally known as Meccaniche Veneziane. In recent years, it has increasingly focused on bringing more of its watch production and craftsmanship to Italy. The new Redentore Levius is one good example of the effort, combining a lightweight titanium case with a hand-engraved […]
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-weekly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Seiko 6139-6009 “Pogue” There are many famous vintage Seikos, but few are as iconic as the 6139 “Pogue” automatic chronograph with the yellow dial. Made famous of course by Col. William Pogue wearing one on his Skylab 4 mission in 1973, making it the first automatic chronograph worn in space! While this example isn’t the exact model, pretty much all the vintage 6139-600X models with a yellow dial are considered a “Pogue” by collectors. This example looks all original and in good shape. The case is unpolished with crisp edges and the original brushed finish, but it does have a few dings from honest use. The bright yellow dial is nice, and there is some aging to the lume on the dial and hands, not uncommon. The watch comes on the original and correct Seiko H-link bracelet. No movement picture but the watch runs per the seller. View auction here Vintage Eterna KonTiki Here’s a fantastic vintage Eterna KonTiki 20 with the original bracelet. Eterna made a plethora of various KonTiki models, both divers and sport/dress models. This version is the latter. The steel case is probably in the 36mm range although the seller doesn’t specify. But the case is in great sh...
Hodinkee
If you've never collected Rolex Bubblebacks before, you should probably forget nearly everything you know about vintage watches. At least, that's what it feels like you should do when you start wading into the space. Things like reference numbers are much less valuable to remember than movements, case designs, printing details, and a general ability to just remember everything you've seen to get a sense of feel for what is right and what isn't. And trust me, a lot isn't. You could spend decades looking at these watches, but "Bubble Back" by Masahiro Endo, the owner of vintage retailer Private Eyes in Tokyo, is a great reference to jump-start your understanding of an iconic (and currently underappreciated) model. I mentioned this in last week's review of John Nagayama's "96," but the only watch I'd be more afraid to deep-dive into than the Patek ref. 96 is the Rolex "Bubbleback." It's not even an official model, but a nickname for Rolex watches made from 1933 to the mid-1950s with a domed, "bubble-like" caseback. So when you open Endo-san's book, you'll probably immediately be struck by the fact that none of the examples (except the later ref. 6062 and ref. 8171) have reference numbers. According to collectors, that's not the most useful thing for understanding the Bubbleback. Basically, every other detail matters more. We've previously published a story about the bubbleback with a lot of thoughts and tips for understanding these models, courtesy of Ken Jacobs and Justin Gr...
Worn & Wound
Vintage Seiko, as most collectors know, is a rich tapestry. Once you learn the story of Colonel William Pogue, or try to track down the funky bracelet that Bruce Lee paired with his own Speed-Timer, the wormholes naturally open themselves, each with their own dizzying amounts of reference numbers, specific models, and fun nicknames for the mind to notice and then squirrel away for later. But what about the ones you might have overlooked? Midcentury Seiko chronographs are a riot of design variations, bold patterns, and contrasting color schemes—and all backed by genuine innovation in the guise of the first automatic chronograph, flyback movements with stacked register hands, collaborations with luminary designers, and freakish dabbles with postmodernism. It’s what makes them so much fun to pay attention to. Hence, these six Seiko chronographs that play with the form, proving that even across the decades there are still surprises to rediscover. Not just familiar references, but obscure offshoots. Seiko 6138-8000 “Baby Panda” Seiko’s dual-register chronograph debuted shortly after the 6139, which we all know as the world’s first automatic chronograph. And while both watches represent futuristic seventies design, the slimmer 6139 takes a backseat to this lineup’s exaggeratedly bulky cases and clashing, patterned color schemes that have garnered nicknames like “UFO,” “Kakume” (“square eyes”), and “John Player Special” (a nickname popularized ...
Monochrome
Since the launch of his eponymous Le Solliat-based brand in 2017, David Candaux has developed his own visual and mechanical language, offering highly technical movements and an unusual case construction and display. The DC6, introduced after his first creation, the DC1, established many of the elements that have become signatures of the brand: a basin-shaped […]
Hodinkee
What We Know Last year, we covered Baltic's relaunch of the Aquascaphe, their vintage-leaning traditional-style diver (not to be confused with their dual-crown version). That release came in several colors and two sizes. Now they're relaunching the Aquascaphe GMT as a new Mark II version. While the aesthetic changes are more subtle than on the diver, the changes under the hood are more substantial. The Aquascaphe GMT MK-II has a subtly redesigned case profile (39.5mm by 13.8mm, 316L stainless steel, with a 47mm lug-to-lug), with the most distinguishing feature being the new crown guards that make the case distinctly more modern. The rest of the case has been reworked (it is 0.5mm wider and 0.8mm thicker), with vertical brushing on the lugs and 200m water resistance. The watch still has a luminous 24-click GMT sapphire bidirectional bezel. The caseback engraving (which we've posted a picture of later in the story), on the other hand, is simplified from the globe design on the first version. What used to be three color variants is now four, all with glossy black dials and Super-LumiNova BGW9. One has a blue-and-light-blue bezel with light-blue dial text and a GMT hand. Another is a "Pepsi" style with red accents. The third has a blue-and-green bezel, and the last, the newest, is black and grey with orange accents. The hands and indices are a bit bolder and rounder. Inside the case, the brand has changed to a "flyer" Miyota 9075 GMT movement with a 42-hour power reserve. The ...
Hodinkee
What We Know When Gallet's relaunch was announced, I sat up in my chair a bit. My second cousin, once removed, has a vintage Gallet Yachting that once belonged to my great uncle, who was an avid sailor. I have fond memories of going out on my Uncle Bob's boat and sailing around the bay of Green Bay every few summers—well, fond when I was piloting and not getting seasick. All Gallet needed to do was not forget the Yachting watches of the past (and, hopefully, do a good job with the legacy), and I would be somewhat happy. Well, they did that, and a lot more. But let's start with another model first. Sitting at the top of the price range for the modern Gallet lineup, yet still below the Breitling offerings with the same movement (a key positioning for the group), are the new Gallet Classics, featuring three Multichron reissues, of sorts. All of them measure 38mm by 12.5mm with 46mm lug-to-lug, and share the same stainless steel case with slightly twisted and faceted lugs. The cases have stainless steel screw-down casebacks with sapphire displays. Despite that sapphire crystal, the entire package is rated to 100m of water resistance, protecting a Breitling B09 manually wound movement. While a bit thicker than the original Multichrons, the movement, caseback, and reliable water resistance are huge upgrades. You can see that the three watches differ only in dial treatment. At the top of this article is the only version with lume: the Tribute to Multichron 45, with a deep bla...
Fratello
Breitling honors the centennial of Miles Davis’s birth with the new Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Tribute to Miles Davis. This limited-edition Navitimer revives a host of vintage design cues to create a fitting tribute to the pioneering jazz musician. At its heart is the manually wound B09 caliber, recalling the hand-wound Navitimers of the 1960s […] Visit Breitling Reimagines A Jazz Classic With The Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Tribute To Miles Davis to read the full article.
Fratello
I bet that, if given a choice, Murphy Cooper would wear a different watch. In Christopher Nolan’s Interstellar (2014), “Murph” wears a black-dial watch with vintage elements, like cathedral hands, and probably a 42mm case. This gift from her father is pretty similar to the 2019 commercial release. A 38mm watch would fit her wrist […] Visit Murphy Cooper’s Choice: The Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm With A New Blue Dial to read the full article.
Monochrome
Hamilton’s Murph watch got its popularity almost entirely from its role in Christopher Nolan’s 2014 film Interstellar. The watch created for the film returned as a production model in 2019, first in 42mm, before Hamilton introduced a smaller 38mm version in 2022. This 38mm model has carried different styles, from the original black dial to […]
Monochrome
Enamel watches are nothing new, of course, but it is always interesting to discover a young independent brand approaching this centuries-old craft with a new take. O&HoraPictor; was founded only recently, in 2024; the brand grew out of founder Eriks’s long-standing exploration of enamel, including the establishment of his own enamel atelier in 2017. Today, […]
Time+Tide
The OCTO 3003 World Timer is for those wanting to dip their toes into vintage watches without the potential pitfalls.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-weekly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage CompuChron LED You gotta love a good vintage LED, especially when it comes with the box and papers! This example is a nice, chunky CompuChron in stainless steel. The space-age steel case is excellent with sharp edges and original mix of brushed and polished finishes. The LED screen looks nice and clear, and the printed CompuChron logo is crisp. The watch comes on the correct and original integrated steel bracelet with a signed buckle. Best of all it comes with the original box and instruction manual, which is always handy. The watch runs and all the LED segments light up. Really fun piece that’s in amazing condition. View auction here Vintage Seiko Seikomatic Here is a sweet vintage Seiko Seikomatic from 1966. Seller doesn’t state, but this should be a 38mm case size. The case looks unpolished with sharp edges on the cool, angular lugs. The classic Seiko silver dial is clean, with nice clear writing and applied steel baton markers. Steel dauphine hands and an unusual date at 3 o’clock with day at 6 o’clock complete the look. The small crown is recessed at 4 o’clock. The serial number on the caseback dates this one to January 1966. The automatic movement is clean and...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Compare the Bernhardt Captain and Baltic MR01 for vintage styling, dial detail, finishing, and wearability, and decide which one prioritizes character more.
Worn & Wound
It’s somewhat hard to believe (well, hard for me to believe, anyway) but 2026 marks the ninth year of Ming. If you had told me in the earliest days of the brand in 2017 that less than a decade later they’d factor in as one of the more important independent watch brands of their era, I’m not sure how I’d have reacted. For me, the early days were a tough sell. Ming had trouble meeting demand for their watches in those first years, which can be a good problem to have of course, but can also lead to all kinds of issues with would-be customers as the expectations game gets played out in public. They’ve solved for that largely with smart planning, and a release strategy that sees a mix of accessible pieces with more haute horlogerie oriented fare, all with a design language that is immediately recognizable and all their own. To celebrate their ninth anniversary, Ming has introduced 57.05 Comet, a watch that features a worldtimer, one of the brand’s favorite complications, in an interesting new way. It’s also the latest watch in their fifth-generation design language, which incorporates a genuinely unique take on their own flying blade lugs, twisted with deep Art Deco tropes. According to Ming, the 57.05 takes its name from the de Havilland Comet, which aviation enthusiasts will recognize right away as the world’s first commercial jet airliner. The watch, like many worldtimers, is meant as both a useful aid to travelers and an ode of sorts to a more romantic e...
Worn & Wound
You know, I actually wasn’t going to write about this watch. An $18,000 vintage inspired dive watch from a brand that doesn’t hold a ton of personal relevance to me was just not super high on my list of priorities as Geneva Watch Days prep is now in full swing (this time next week, I will be surviving on CHF 10 Coke Zeros). But, over the weekend the collective watch internet kind of lost its mind over the new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary Limited Edition, so I shifted my to-do list around a bit and, well, here we are. Of course, there have been a lot of memes and jokes about this watch sharing a certain similarity to the Seiko 62MAS and the many, many reinterpretations and reissues of that watch over the years. I’m frankly less interested in those aesthetic similarities than I am in the very conceit of this watch, what it illuminates about Blancpain, and the way it fits into the neverending conversation around price sensitivity that we’ve been having for months as we see MSRPs shoot higher and higher. But what I’ll say about the appearance of the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary Limited Edition is simply that, at this point, 70 years on from the advent of this type of watch, I don’t think any brand really owns the aesthetic identity of something so generic. Lots and lots of watches from all kinds of brands look like this, just like lots and lots of watches look like a Speedmaster, or a Calatrava. The design tropes of these wat...
Monochrome
Since the debut of the Independence Skeleton in 2022, followed by the fifth-anniversary Skeleton editions in 2023 and the more compact 40mm model introduced last year, Norqain has established its approach to skeletonisation. Without chasing the extremes, the brand offers a combination of a contemporary openworked design and the robust, adventure-ready character that defines the […]
Monochrome
Since founding his independent brand in 2022, Sylvain Berneron has built a reputation around a distinctive approach to form, mechanics and scarcity. His experience on the creative side of major organisations clearly shaped his understanding of both product design and the power of restraint. His first watch, the Mirage, established that philosophy immediately. Introduced in […]
Hodinkee
I've always had a certain fascination with world timers—for one, it's a practical complication, but mostly because I love watching brands solve the problem of presenting a lot of information—text, numbers, data—and condensing it into a dial that actually works. When it works, it really works. So when I heard Frederique Constant was updating their Classic Worldtimer at Watches and Wonders this year, I was intrigued. The broader market is fascinated with world timers too. If the upper end is any indicator that world timers are trending, look at what the ref. 2523 "South America Map" Patek sold for a few months ago. Couple that with brands exploring different ways into the complication—our own Ben Clymer spent time in Geneva last fall and came back with lavish praise for a world timer from Andersen Genève, calling it the favorite thing he saw on the entire trip. But the big hiccup for me with world timers has always been simple: they're often quite expensive. World time, generally, was historically reserved for a brand's most exclusive references, in precious metals, running mid-five-figure to low-six-figure—only in recent years have brands like Nomos, Omega, Breitling, and IWC started offering steel versions, which dragged the entry point down to the mid-four-figure range. Frederique Constant has been chipping away at that problem for well over a decade now, and with the Classic Worldtimer Manufacture release at Watches and Wonders this year, I think they've crack...
WatchRider
I added the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 (Ref. WV211B.BA0787) to my collection back in 2019. Since then, I’ve been wearing it through various phases of daily life, travel and work. This review is not going to be filled with breathless hype or exaggerated claims about horological perfection. Instead, it is an honest, personal look at what it is actually like owning this specific Carrera. If you are considering buying one on the pre-owned market, this review is for you. And yes, we definitely need to talk about Inception. If you are short on time, here are the Pros and Cons The Pros: Timeless Dimensions: The 39mm case is extremely comfortable, versatile and avoids aging poorly with changing fashion trends. Exceptional Build Quality: Punches well above its price point with crisp case edges, alternating polished and brushed steel, dual sapphire crystals and a beautifully finished bracelet. Cinematic Pedigree: While it shouldn’t be the only reason to buy a watch, the connection to Inception adds a layer of enjoyable history to the piece. Reliable Movement: The Calibre 5 is a robust, well-known movement that will never be difficult or exorbitantly expensive to maintain. The Cons: Water Resistance: 50 meters with a push-pull crown restricts this watch to land-based activities. Lug Width: The 19mm lug width makes sourcing third-party straps slightly inconvenient. Lack of Clasp Adjustment: Achieving the perfect bracelet fit relies strictly on adding or removing h...
Monochrome
Albishorn, an independent Swiss brand founded in 2024 by Sébastien Chaulmontet, focuses on “imaginary vintage” watches, “what if” models that are visually grounded in the past – but which never existed. A year after its debut, Albishorn released the Marinagraph, a robust skin diver with a patented 10-minute regatta countdown function that “could have” been […]
Hodinkee
What We Know Swiss brand Albishorn, carving out a niche with "imaginary vintage" designs, just released a simplified version of its regatta chronograph with the Marinagraph Classic. I first covered this complication in my hands-on review two years ago with the Albishorn Maxigraph, the brand's debut model and a collaboration with Massena LAB. Since then, the regatta chronograph has lived on under Albishorn's "Water" collection as the Marinagraph, combining the complication with a tide bezel. Today's Marinagraph Classic isn't all that different from the Marinagraph Classic Racing. Visually, the biggest difference is the swap from that colorful aluminum insert tide bezel to a large bidirectional sapphire bezel with more traditional, lumed markings. And yes, there are new dials too. While the sunray-brushed black dial remains, the new dial comes in the form of a white fumé color, with what could have been misconstrued as a shadow in the brand photography actually a subtle dark fade around the edges of the white dial. The black dial sports contrasting silver hands and markers, while the ones on the white fumé dial offer a stark black contrast. On both dials, the ten-minute retrograde regatta countdown scale at 7 o'clock is colored in blue and red, while the chronograph and regatta seconds hands are matched on each dial in either red for the black dial or blue for the white. My favorite feature since the first Maxigraph has been the aperture at 3 o'clock, serving as a running ...
Monochrome
Since its international relaunch in 2016, the Seiko Presage collection, for decades available only to Japanese customers, has become the brand’s showcase of the country’s traditional aesthetics and craftsmanship, offering enamel, porcelain, and urushi-lacquer dials. The recently introduced Presage Classic Series comprise vintage-inspired everyday watches, and the new Seiko Presage Classic is created with Tradman’s […]
Monochrome
Following its global relaunch in 2024 with Patrik Hoffmann at the helm, Favre Leuba retains the spirit of its historical tool watches but with a new focus on extreme wearability. Famous for engineering innovative, well-equipped tool watches, Hoffmann has revisited some of Favre Leuba’s vintage stars in a more contemporary key with slimmer cases and […]
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