Inside the Czapek manufacture: how to make 1000 watches a year
We visited the Czapek manufacture in La Chaux-du-Fonds and was taken on a guided tour of the facilities by the CEO Xavier de Rouquemaurel.
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We visited the Czapek manufacture in La Chaux-du-Fonds and was taken on a guided tour of the facilities by the CEO Xavier de Rouquemaurel.
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com. Amida Launches the Digitrend’s Permanent Collection The Amida Digitrend is one of our favorite releases of the year for the way it rethinks what a vintage reissue can be, and of course for its funky and unusual display. Following the launch of the “Take-Off Edition” earlier this year, Amida is back with a trio of Digitrend’s that are not limited and will be part of the brand’s permanent collection. In addition to a steel reference on a matching bracelet, we get gold and black PVD versions as well (also on bracelets). Other subtle refinements include a new display caseback and a redesigned minute aperture and typography. The new collection will be available next year. More information here. Roll that Beautiful Bean (Watch) Footage We love a novelty watch here at Worn & Wound, and as these things go, this bean watch is a pretty good one. Bush’s Beans is one of those iconic brands that transcends the actual space they’re in. Even if you don’t like beans the brand’s advertising has probably seeped into your brain over years of pop culture pervasiveness. So when we see...
SJX Watches
In an unexpected twist, Jérôme Lambert will return to the top job at Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC), some 11 years after he left the same role. Mr Lambert’s first spell as chief executive of JLC, which lasted from 2002 to 2013, was a major success. During the 11 years, the brand developed into a contender in haute horlogerie while maintaining its affordable appeal in simpler watches. He then moved on to run Montblanc for almost four years until early 2017, before rising to a series of senior jobs in Richemont, the luxury group that owns JLC. In 2018 Mr Lambert was named chief executive of the group, but in June 2024 he was reassigned. Mr Lambert became chief operating officer, while Nicolas Bos succeeded him as chief executive. In some ways, Mr Lambert is a JLC lifer – he began his professional career in 1996 in the finance department of JLC. When he was tapped to lead JLC in 2002, he was one of the youngest chief executives in watchmaking. The two chief executives who ran JLC after Mr Lambert never quite led the brand to the same heights, so many will be hoping his comeback also signals a return to earlier glory.
Deployant
We will be attending this event in Ho Chih Minh City in Vietnam come December 6 to 8. You can too! Details on how to register is here.
Monochrome
A relatively young and independently-ran brand, Brellum specializes in sporty chronographs, all produced in limited editions, with a maximum capacity of only 299 units per year and exclusively direct sales to final customers. A deliberate choice that’s made the brand an enthusiast-driven project with a strong base. Following the refreshing Duobox 39mm a couple of […]
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Time+Tide
Common colours, distinct shades.The post Girard-Perregaux adds Sage Green & Midnight Blue to its steel 38mm Laureato appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Earlier this month, Managing Editor Zach Kazan shared his thoughts on “Watches We Don’t Wear.” We thought this represented a good opportunity to get our staff and Worn & Wound contributors together to find out what watches are just kind of sitting in their own watch boxes, and why. Find those stories below, and let us know in the comments if you have a watch you don’t wear, but just can’t bring yourself to part with. Devin Pennypacker Did you know that you can order a pack of clear acrylic watch stands on Amazon for less than $15? Well, now you do. This year, I finally decided to do something with the pair of watches that paradoxically I will not wear and yet will never get rid of. Near and dear to my heart, these two watches spring from different eras of my watch enthusiasm and, of course, my preference for collecting. The first is a black-on-black Nixon Time Teller fitted with a rubberized genuine faux leather strap. Dead long ago, the blacked-out seconds hand sits idle which would typically bother me but for the fact that it is backdropped by black hands and a black dial making legibility all but impossible. It was never practical, but boy did I feel cool wearing it. Stemming from my angsty youth and fascination with action sports, I would frequently stop into my local skate shop to try on visually loud Nike SB Dunks, flip through the clothing racks of black hoodies and cargo pants, and of course, oggle the well-lit Nixon display case. So, when I got my ...
Time+Tide
Minimal, elevated and unashamed of its meca-quartz movement, the HZ.02 Chronograph delivers on all possible aspects of value.The post The Hz Watches HZ.02 Chronograph worships quartz with staggering value for money appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
These days, monopusher chronographs are an anachronistic oddity - but they're still very cool.The post The 5 best monopusher chronographs, for when two pushers is one too many appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
LVMH watch brands stand to benefit from an increase in Zenith's movement production.The post Frederic Arnault reveals plan to increase Zenith movement production for use across all LVMH watch brands appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Teddy Baldassarre
Seizing the final months of the 2024 trend cycle, Casio joins the ranks of watch brands looking to expand their product possibilities beyond the wrist. Close on the heels of the recent Timex and Maison Margiela MM6 collaboration, which included a watch ring, Casio has shrunken down its own legacy design, ready to chart the next frontier of watch-wearing real estate: the finger. Though the Casio legacy extends all the way back to 1946, the watch branch of the business has been celebrating its 50th birthday with a number of special-edition designs. The brand’s latest commemorative design shrinks down its familiar octagonal case shape to just below an inch stature, and is crafted entirely of stainless steel. According to the brand’s website, the ability to create this tiny, functioning timepiece is thanks to novel innovations in advanced metal molding technology. This process utilizes Metal Injection Molding to re-create the familiar and nostalgia-inducing Casio design in ring form. The caveat with this process is that the case, back cover, and ring are all molded in one continuous form, and the ring size is set to 10.5 U.S. sizing. This is something of a blow to my fellow small-ring-size friends, though the brand details that each ring will ship with adjustment spacers to accommodate more sizes. Unlike the initial set of watch rings released by Casio last year, which were essentially toy replicas of the brand’s most iconic models, the CRW-001-1JR is a fully funct...
Monochrome
After months of speculation and anticipation, and enviously seeing Daniel Craig flaunting one, Omega has finally brought us the Seamaster Diver 300M No Date. In my initial article, I wanted to get the news out quickly, so I kept things a touch factual. Now though, after getting my hands on the two watches that are […]
Worn & Wound
Compared to its yellow and white cousins, rose gold has a way of being both polarizing and under-the-radar simultaneously. Love it or hate it, you can’t really deny the strangle-hold that this colorway had on millennial Instagram feeds circa-2015. Thankfully, it’s gotten a bit more grown-up in recent years, most notably in the latest iteration of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph. Now, you may be thinking: Brett, you idiot. We already know there’s a pink gold Reverso Tribute Chronograph. And you’d be correct. But now, the Swiss watchmakers have taken it one step further with a full pink gold reference. Instead of just the case being in 18k (750/1000) pink gold, the dial, movement bridges, applied indexes, and pin buckle will also have a rosy hue to it. This color especially complements the Art Deco aesthetics of the watch, giving it just the slightest upgrade to the model without veering too far into modernity. Having been around since 1931, it’s one of those classic designs that needs very little improvement (and even less of an introduction). First designed for polo players, as the flip-action of the case added a little bit of protection for the crystal during a match, it has since become one of the most iconic silhouettes in horology. It has all the charm of, say, a Tank, but the bit of movement gives it just something more, I find. And that something more is best attributed to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s continued minor upgrades that still keep the le...
SJX Watches
The fabled Breguet no. 160 “Marie Antoinette” (pictured above, image credit Baruch Coutts) was reputedly made for the last queen of France, but was so complicated that it took decades to complete, by which time the queen was long dead. Stolen in 1983 and then recovered in 2007, the legendary watch started by Abraham-Louis Breguet will be on display for the first time outside of the L.A. Mayer Museum for Islamic Art In Jerusalem since its recovery. From December 12, the Breguet “Marie Antoinette” will be on show at the Science Museum in London (which is also home to important George Daniels creations, including the unfinished watch and the Space Traveller II). The Breguet Marie Antoinette is part of Versailles: Science and Splendour, an exhibition dedicated to the scientific and technology discoveries related to the French royal court in the 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibition explores a 120-year span of scientific progress at Versailles, illustrating the scientific endeavours accomplished during the reigns of Louis XIV, Louis XV, and Louis XVI. The mythical watch While the exhibition will include over 100 exhibits, watch enthusiasts will know the highlight is Breguet no. 160, the grand complication commissioned in 1783, by Marie Antoinette’s lover according to legend, hence its longstanding nickname. A no-expense-spared commission, watch no. 160 was only completed in 1827, having been delayed by A.-L. Breguet’s exile during the French Revolution. By the t...
Time+Tide
Luxury watches are associated with being flashy and flexed on the wrist, but stealth watches subtly ooze cool.The post 10 of the best stealth watches that fly under the radar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Worn & Wound
Nearly a year ago I sat in on a conference call with some colleagues and members of the Serica team, who outlined their upcoming slate of 2024 releases. They were particularly excited about a new watch they weren’t yet ready to show us that would debut toward the end of the year, a watch they claimed was a significant departure for them in terms of style, shape, and what enthusiasts have come to expect from Serica over the last five years. While not an anniversary piece, per se, they framed this release as one that celebrates the brand and their unique perspective on the watch world, and now, finally, having seen the new Reference 1174 Parade, their excitement makes a lot of sense. This is an ambitious release, and should go a long way in expanding what the community might expect from Serica going forward. Serica has built their brand on designing purpose built but elegant tool watches in the style of classics from the midcentury period made by Rolex and countless other historic brands. Their watches tend to have a very clear vintage influence without being too on the nose – they never mimic or borrow completely from any specific classic watch. The same holds true for their first watch in a more formal vernacular. The Parade jumps in the shaped case arms race with a dramatic oval, stepped case in what the brand calls a “Stadium” footprint: straight sides, but with soft, curved corners that suggest both roundness and length simultaneously. The watch might immedi...
Time+Tide
Quartz can be cool, and these super collectable models from Rolex to MoonSwatch prove just how cool it can be.The post The most collectable quartz watches to annoy the snobs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Doxa is renowned for crafting rugged watches with a focus on functionality – tool watches, all featuring that toughness, high-water resistance or scratch-proof sapphire crystal you expect from utilitarian divers. Today, mechanical watches are as much luxury items as they are functional tools. In response to “strong demand from markets”, the brand’s compact and rather […]
Monochrome
Our readers might remember reading about the fledgeling French brand Awake, which has taken the ancestral Vietnamese art of sanded natural lacquer and applied it to the dial of its first permanent collection, Son Mài. Inspired by the bright red colour of Remembrance Day poppies, Awake has produced a special Son Maì edition and will […]
Quill & Pad
Omega, Tudor, Chopard, and many more watches all boast “COSC Chronometer” status on their watches, but what exactly does this certification entail? In this episode of How-To, Tim breaks down what exactly a watch needs to achieve to get COSC status and what defines a chronometer.
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Time+Tide
The final Studio Underd0g Pizza Watch is a unique one, being auctioned off for charity with a best of both worlds dial.The post A Pizza Unique for those who can’t make up their mind appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Andrew was asked by the Financial Times what has been the driving force behind these new upstart brands in the industry.The post Andrew talks to the FT about the disruptive new faces of watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
“Watches are made to be worn” is a mantra repeated frequently by people like me. To own a watch and not wear it in our community is borderline shameful. As enthusiasts, we take pleasure in the little scratches and signs of wear that a well worn watch picks up, and many of us adhere to the principle that if a watch isn’t being worn regularly, it’s time to move it along, list it on the forums, and replace it with another that hopefully finds a more regular role in the rotation. I’m a believer in wearing watches – that should go without saying. I have a watch box full of watches that I genuinely enjoy having on my wrist. At this point it’s a well cultivated collection that, I think, reflects my taste and personality, and I’m lucky enough to own a handful of watches that give me a real sense of pride in ownership when I put them on. I’m not one to baby my watches or only bring certain pieces out on special occasions, and I certainly don’t have a Safe Queen, which I have to admit is one of my favorite terms of art in our hobby. Alas, I’ve never purchased a watch purely for investment purposes and dropped it off at the bank, with promises to visit around the holidays, or maybe for an anniversary. But I do want to normalize the idea that we can own and enjoy watches that we would never think of wearing. I think most collectors, if they gave it some thought, would be able to identify a watch or two (or more) in their collection that they don’t wear – ...
SJX Watches
With the Geneva sales over, the auction season now moves to Hong Kong, where Phillips is staging a pair of sales: Toki, a theme sale dedicated to watches related to Japan, and the traditional The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIX. Taking place over three days from November 22-24, the sales total 346 lots, including a notable line-up of metiers d’art timepieces decorated with artisanal techniques. They range from an enamelled Bulgari Serpenti to a Vacheron Constantin Les Masques quartet. We round up metiers d’art highlights from the two sales. The catalogues with online bidding for Toki and HKWA XIX. TOKI Lot 65 – Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts “Kimono” Ref. 5077P-097 Patek Philippe’s annual Rare Handcrafts offerings are often centred on several themes, and in 2013, resulting in several models with Japanese motifs, including this Calatrava ref. 5077P with a cloisonné enamel dial. The technique of enamelling is well known: a mixture of silica sand, metal oxides for colour, and oil is painted on a surface before being baked in an oven at temperatures exceeding 800°C. to melt the paste to form enamel. Cloisonné adds an additional layer of complexity by employing gold wires to form the motif, with the enamel painted into the cells form by the wires. Here the wires form a cherry blossom motif typical of traditional kimono fabric. According to Phillips, only four examples were produced with this dial, with the present watch being the first to emerge at auction. This wat...
Monochrome
The 2024 edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève has just unveiled the grand winner of this year’s awards ceremony! Often regarded as the Oscars of Watchmaking, the GPHG stands for a celebration of all things surrounding mechanical watchmaking. A specially selected jury, which included our founder and editor-in-chief Frank Geelen, has narrowed down […]
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