Revolution
Bremont H-4 Hercules Pays Tribute to Herculean Contribution to Aviation
Bremont pays tribute to the H-4 Hercules a crazily large aircraft originally designed to carry allied tanks over the Atlantic during the Second World War.
Results for Glashütte Original Caliber 36
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Revolution
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Minute Repeater Singapore 2019 Ref. 5531R
Originally introduced in 2017 for the Grand Exhibition in New York, the Patek Philippe World Time Minute Repeater Ref. 5531R was the first minute repeater that could chime the local time, as opposed to a conventional world-time repeater that would only strike the home time. The reference then entered regular production in 2018 with a cloisonné enamel of Lake Geneva, or the lac Léman as locals know it, a recurring motif on Patek Philippe enamel watches. Patek Philippe has now unveiled a special-edition version for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition 2019 in Singapore, featuring a cloisonné enamel dial depicting the city centre of Singapore, along with the country’s name listed on the city disc in place of Beijing. It joins the Minute Repeater Tourbillon Singapore 2019 Ref. 5303R as one of the grand complications created especially for the event. As was always the case, the watch is in red gold and measures 40.2mm wide. it features hand-guillochéd, hobnail pattern on the case band as well as on the repeater slide on the left. In it is the self-winding cal. R 27 HU which features the patented repeater mechanism that chimes the time of the city at the 12 o’clock position on the world time mechanism. While a minute repeater usually operates independently from the world time and thus chimes only the home time, the two mechanisms in this case are mechanically coupled. The hour snail of the repeater is continuously driven by the time zone wheel of the world time mechanism. ...
SJX Watches
Hands-On: TAG Heuer Monaco “The Hour Glass” – The Dark Lord Revived
The latest anniversary edition for Singapore’s largest watch retailer has just dropped: the Monaco “The Hour Glass” is derived from the Monaco Calibre 11 launched at Baselworld 2015. But it combines the style of the 1970s with a modern twist, mixing a high-contrast, all-black case paired with a beige dial and red accents. Think of it as a modern take on the desirable Monaco “Dark Lord”. Unapologetically square Designed by Jack Heuer and named after the Formula 1 race on the principality, the Monaco was powered by the one of the first automatic chronograph movements, the Chronomatic cal. 11. But its true claim to fame is Steve McQueen, who wore one in Le Mans, making the original Monaco ref. 1133B with its distinctive blue dial something of an icon. Steven McQueen in Le Mans More crucially, the Monaco was the first water-resistant square watch when it was launched on March 3, 1969. This was achieved with the use of a one-piece inner case – essentially a square capsule containing the movement and dial – secured to the outer case with a notched system that created a tension seal. It was produced by Ervin Piquerez, a case maker best known for its “Super Compressor” dive watch cases, which received a patent for its landmark, square invention. The unusual Monaco case as illustrated by a “Dark Lord” – outer case in black PVD, and inner case in brushed steel And inside the case sat the Chronomatic cal. 11, a movement that was one of three ...
SJX Watches
Richard Mille Introduces the RM 57-03 Tourbillon Sapphire Dragon
Most of Richard Mille’s recent – and bestselling – watches have mainly been ultra-light and extremely technical in terms of materials and styling. The new RM 57-03 Tourbillon Sapphire Dragon is different. Instead it harks back to an earlier era of Richard Mille from not too long ago, when decorative techniques were employed to create unusually intricate watches like the Boucheron tourbillon. Originally unveiled in 2012, the RM 57-01 was initially launched as the “Jackie Chan” edition, designed in collaboration with the Hong Kong action star and bearing a miniature dragon sculpture on the movement. Subsequent iterations included the RM 57-02 where the dragon was replaced by a falcon, a motif popular in the Gulf. Available only in Asia, the RM 57-03 Tourbillon Sapphire Dragon is essentially a variant of the RM 57-01 the dragon executed in sapphire crystal and gold, the first time Richard Mille has created a sculpture in that material. The sapphire dragon is anchored to the movement ring with screws Produced by Olivier Vaucher, a micro-decoration specialist in Geneva that serves brands including Roger Dubuis, Van Cleef & Arpels and Zenith, the sapphire body of the dragon is first milled from a block of sapphire, and then laser engraved to create its detail. Then the engraving is finished and polished by hand. The sapphire pieces are then joined to solid red gold components that make up the dragon’s head, tail, limbs and spine. To highlight the dragon’s tongu...
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: A 40-year-old tale of cars and watches
These days we’re pretty down with the tie-in between the watch industry and motorsports. Because while the association, which had its golden days in the age of Heuer et al, was originally born from necessity, nowadays its main function has to do with the marketing department. And while many brands have history in the area, … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: A 40-year-old tale of cars and watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase “25th Anniversary”
With one watch unveiled each month since the start of the year, the A. Lange & Söhne “25th Anniversary” series is coming to a completion. The ninth watch has just been announced – the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase. Of the 10 piece anniversary set, this is arguably the most esoteric and least known Lange 1, being an elegantly conceived complication inside a case that was originally devised as a smaller men’s watch, but is now a ladies’ watch. Measuring a compact 36.8mm in width, the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase was first unveiled in 2009 – seven years after the launch of the full-size, 38.5mm Lange 1 Moon Phase. Subsequently in 2017, it evolved to incorporate a new caliber based on the second-generation Lange 1 movement. Though the original Little Lange 1 was introduced as a watch for men in the late 1990s, the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase was a ladies’ watch from the get-go and decorated as such, with mother-of-pearl dials, diamond bezels and most recently a guilloche dial. But with the subdued anniversary colours of blue and silver, the latest Little Lange 1 Moon Phase is the first instance where it could be for men wanting a smaller watch. The dial of the watch is solid silver, with blued steel hands and printed blue markings. As with the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase “25thAnniversary” unveiled earlier in the year, the white-gold lunar disc in the seconds sub-dial is hand-engraved with stars that vary in size and shape, creating a detailed depiction of the ni...
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Cornes de Vache Chronograph in Steel
Originally available in platinum and then rose gold, the Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 is a well regarded vintage remake, being well executed and faithful to the original. It’s modelled on the ref. 6087 of the 1950s, which was characterised by pointy, horn-shaped lugs, hence the model name; cornes de vache translates as cow horns. Now it is available in stainless steel, making the Cornes de Vache the second Historiques model to be offered in the metal, after the Historiques 1942 and 1948 triple calendars. The steel case naturally makes it far more accessible, with a retail price that’s a third less than the same in platinum. Material aside, the specs of the new model are identical to the earlier precious metal versions. The case is 38.5mm in diameter, and contains the cal. 1142 movement. Now made in-house by Vacheron Constantin, the cal. 1142 is derived from the Lemania 2310. Vacheron Constantin has upgraded the movement in several ways, most notably with a free-sprung balance wheel. The dial is a pale grey with a fine “velvet” finish and red accents on the elapsed seconds track. All of the applied hour markers are 18k white gold, as are the hands. Notably, this is not the first Cornes de Vache in steel. In 2017 Vacheron Constantin produced a small run of 36 watches – with a steel case and dark grey dial – for American watch blog Hodinkee. Key facts and price Diameter: 38.5mm Height: 10.9mm Material: Stainless steel Water resist...
Time+Tide
The DOXA Chronograph – as good as their divers?
Editor’s note: Everyone knows Doxa make a great dive watch, but not as many people know they also produced excellent chronographs in the 1940s and ’50s. This is the story of one of those watches, a black dial Doxa chronograph with a spiral telemeter scale, worth significantly more than the €1200 Paul originally laid down … ContinuedThe post The DOXA Chronograph – as good as their divers? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Bulova Computron Review: A Modernized LED Marvel
Bulova introduces another vintage inspired watch at Baselworld 2019, but this time with a twist. The Bulova Computron, a digital LED “driving” watch originally from 1976, has been brought back with some cosmetic and internal updates.
SJX Watches
Living with the Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT PAM 1033
Originally a no-nonsense dive watch made for the frogmen of the Italian navy during the Second World War, Panerai has been moving towards more civilian-friendly sports watches. The evolution is best illustrated by the Luminor Due, which is smaller and thinner, and as far removed from a traditional Panerai as possible while still retaining the signature crown locking mechanism. At the same time, Panerai has also rolled out watches that are oversized like the military originals, but with an increasingly variety of dial colours, like the quartet with blue dials in 2016. Such metallic blue dials are currently fashionable, so it’s no surprise Panerai has continued with the same colour. The recent Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT PAM01033 is essentially an upsized, 44mm version of the PAM 688 from 2016. I had one on the wrist for a few days – here’s how the test drive went. Compared with the earlier PAM 688, size is not the only difference with the new Luminor PAM 1033. A small but significant design tweak is the colour of the hands: instead of gold hands as as before, the hands now match the case. Though the change is seemingly minor, it gives the watch a different look, one that’s more contemporary, because the hands, though small, are the focal point on the dial. But the beige Super-Luminova on the dial and hands is faux-vintage, which does not quite match the newness of the blue dial. The dial is a “sandwich” construction, a signature feature of Paner...
WatchAdvice
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Chronograph Review
The Omega Speedmaster is one of Omega’s most iconic watches to date. It has a rich history with roots tied to space travel. Not many people may be aware but the speedmaster models that we have come to admire in this day and age weren’t originally thought of as a watch for space travel. When it was first released in 1957, it was portrayed as a sports and racing chronograph watch as Omega were the official timekeeper of the Olympic games. Things changed however, when NASA decided that it wanted to use the Omega Speedmaster for its manned missions into space, while also being included in the Apollo program. So how exactly did Omega’s Speedmaster go from being a watch used to time sporting events, to being the watch Astronauts used for space travel? It all starts with a story about a man named Walter Schirra. Being an aviator and military pilot himself, he was about to embark on the Mercury-Atlas 8 Mission. As a way to possibly mark the momentous occasion, he went watch hunting (as any of us would without a doubt). Omega had established a position for itself and with the release of the eye-catching Speedmaster Chronograph, it would be safe to say that it more than caught Schirra’s attention. This would be the turning point in Speedmaster’s history as from this point forward, it would go onto do numerous space travel missions. The “Professional” name was added to the Speedmaster during the 1964-1965 period. The Speedmaster would further cement its legacy as NA...
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces the Type 20 for Only Watch 2019
Among vintage military watches, some are more interesting and significant than others. They include the IWC Mark 11 and Rolex “Milsub”, and also the early Type 20 chronographs made by Breguet for the French air force and navy in the 1950s. Breguet has revived the first-generation, military-issue Type 20 for Only Watch 2019. The one of a kind remake is faithful not just in terms of dimensions and aesthetics, but also the movement. Instead of a modern calibre, it is powered by a refurbished, vintage Valjoux 235 movement, just like the original. Breguet Type 20 “Only Watch” And a bit of nomenclature explanation before proceeding: “Type 20” refers to a French military specification for pilot’s chronographs, which refers to the original, military-issue watches. Watches produced for the civilian market, including the modern day models, are identified by the model name in Roman numerals – Type XX. The origins After WWII, Breguet was one of several watchmakers, including Mathey-Tissot, Airain, Vixa, Auricoste, and Dodane, that supplied Type 20 chronographs to the French Air Force and Naval Air Force. While the actual Type 20 specification has been lost, the general consensus is that it called for a watch a prominent seconds track, a 38mm-ish case with a screw-in back and thickness of not more than 14mm, accuracy of within eight seconds a day, and most crucially, a flyback chronograph with a start-stop function that would work reliably at least 300 ti...
Time+Tide
A look into the world of fine watch engraving with King Nerd
Editor’s note: Since we originally ran this story back in 2017, the star of @KingNerd has grown ever brighter – he’s Revolution’s in-house engraver, and works on all sorts of dopeness. Definitely worth a second look. Real nerd @KingNerd might not be a real monarch, but he is royalty in the world of fine engraving. Definitely … ContinuedThe post A look into the world of fine watch engraving with King Nerd appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INSIGHT: The horologist’s guide to the galaxy
For generations, the business of buying and selling watches has remained remarkably stable. But all that’s changed in the digital age. This is your guide to watch buying in the 21st century, which originally appeared in our buying guide NOW, which you can download here. You can’t buy the above watch. It was made in a … ContinuedThe post INSIGHT: The horologist’s guide to the galaxy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
How to find the perfect barn find watch, according to @barnfindwatches (hint, it take time)
Editor’s note: We originally ran Andy’s interview with John a few years back, but seeing a spectacular Longines Weems that was awarded to a Submarine School captain in 1943 reminded us of just how cool this guy and his collection is – well worth a second look. John, AKA @barnfindwatches, is a family man and … ContinuedThe post How to find the perfect barn find watch, according to @barnfindwatches (hint, it take time) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Night fighter – the Bremont U-2/51-JET
Bremont have always been (rightfully) proud of their strong relationships with various military services, squadrons and organisations, be they active or off-duty. Nowhere is that lineage more evident than the U-2, originally designed for squadrons flying Lockheed U-2s, reconnaissance and spy planes that are, incidentally, among the few planes to be in active service for … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Night fighter – the Bremont U-2/51-JET appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Omega Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer gets our motor running
Given how synonymous Omega’s Speedmaster is with space in general and the moon in particular, it’s quite easy to forget that the watch was originally designed with motorsports in mind. This year, Omega set out to remind us that the Speedmaster does not always equal Moonwatch, with the Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer, a big, 44.5mm … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Omega Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer gets our motor running appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The complete package – Ulysse Nardin’s Marine Tourbillon
When it was originally conceived, the tourbillon was a technical solution to a specific problem - the impact of gravity on the accuracy of a pocket watch’s movement. These days the whirling cage of finely finished metal represents something else. For brands, it’s a bravura statement of prowess. For watch lovers, it’s typically the crowning … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The complete package – Ulysse Nardin’s Marine Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
NEWS: Live in Australia and looking for a Rolex ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona? You might be in luck
The ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona is one of THE legendary watches. At its most basic level it’s an exotic dialled variant of the (already iconic) Rolex Daytona. Unpopular when it was originally released, things kicked off for the watch when pictures of Paul Newman wearing a ref. 6239 emerged and the once-obscure chronograph became one of … ContinuedThe post NEWS: Live in Australia and looking for a Rolex ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona? You might be in luck appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: When less is more – the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Skeleton
Following on from their somewhat controversial releases at SIHH, Girard-Perregaux has surprised us with not one but two new pieces to add to their already brimming Laureato collection. Originally launched back in 1975, the then cutting-edge, quartz-powered Laureato was designed by an Italian architect who, the story goes, drew his inspiration from the dome of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: When less is more – the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing: The 2017 IWC Portugieser Chronograph Classic
IWC presents a facelifted Portugieser Chronograph Classic in three new references, featuring the trusted flyback chronograph, calibre 89361.
Deployant
Baselworld 2017 Grand Seiko Diver Hi-Beat 36000 Professional 600m
The meticulous standards of the brand are expressed in the Grand Seiko Diver for the first time, replete with titanium case, an exclusive 9S hi-beat calibre
Time+Tide
VIDEO: A closer look at the 2017 Rolex Sky-Dweller in Rolesor
In the months, weeks and days leading up to Baselworld the speculation around what novelties Rolex would release reached a near fever pitch. Pundits made predictions about what the new Sea-Dweller would look like, and if we’d see extensions added to the Daytona and Yacht-Master family. But no one predicted an updated Sky-Dweller… Originally released in … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A closer look at the 2017 Rolex Sky-Dweller in Rolesor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: See the world as never before with the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle World Time
Not content to wow us with an exceptionally assured and complex SIHH collection, Vacheron Constantin have just announced their latest, highly limited (like, 10 pieces limited) version of the Traditionnelle World Time, originally shown in 2011. First of all, this 42.5mm Traditionelle is cased in platinum. Most of the time that’s special enough, but in … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: See the world as never before with the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle World Time appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
MY WATCH STORY: John’s 1960s Dunklings Rivana
Not long ago, John Ciciulla, a friend of T+T, posted this image on instagram, explaining that the watch – which originally belonged to his grandfather – had just come back after lengthy repairs. We were keen to find out more, so we caught up with John – a pathologist in Melbourne – to hear the … ContinuedThe post MY WATCH STORY: John’s 1960s Dunklings Rivana appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Grand Seiko GS Anniversary: some analysis and thoughts
Grand Seiko analysis. Originally published in Chronos Japan issue 59/2015. Reprinted with permission. Analysis on the Grand Seiko technically and commercially.
Revolution
Camera Kind Of Obscura: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Compass Camera Of 1937
In the early 1930s, photography was still making the transition from large-format wet plate and film photography to the use of 35mm film, which had originally been developed for cinema. Though it’s called a “full frame” photo format today, in the 1930s 35mm was still thought of by many as a miniature format. Leica had […]
Revolution
SIHH 2014 – Cartier Pre Announced New Tortue Models
Cartier just pre announced for 2014, four new Tortue ladies models in pink- and in white gold. The Tortue that just had its 100 anniversary was originally designed as a mens model in 1912 and was throughout the years available in fairly small collections. Now this legendary and elegant model will get a major update. […]
Deployant
SIHH 2010: ALS Zeitwerk Phantom
The Zeitwerk created a sensation in horology when it was released in Berlin in May 2009. Originally code-named Semper, as the time display reminds one of the display on the great clock in the opera house, but released as Zeitwerk, this year’s innovation in 100 pieces executed in only platinum, is the Luminous Zeitwerk, alsoRead More