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Introducing: Two Simply Irresistible 36.5mm Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Watches Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultr... Dec 22, 2025

Introducing: Two Simply Irresistible 36.5mm Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Watches

The big trend is “small.” And “thin.” Well, those two words perfectly describe the new 36.5mm Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. Not only is the diameter a size “S,” but it also has an 8.43mm case thickness, making it worthy of the “Ultra-Thin” moniker. The pink gold version is the most modern of the […] Visit Introducing: Two Simply Irresistible 36.5mm Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Watches to read the full article.

Hands On: Ulysse Nardin UR-Freak SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin UR-Freak One Dec 22, 2025

Hands On: Ulysse Nardin UR-Freak

One of the standout releases from Dubai Watch Week was the UR-Freak, a collaboration between Ulysse Nardin (UN) and Urwerk that embodies some of the most enduring motifs of each brand. More UN than Uwerk, the UR-Freak nonetheless incorporate’s the latter’s satellite wandering hours display, adapted to the Freak’s slow-moving flying tourbillon. A limited run of just 100 individually numbered pieces, the UR-Freak confers some of Urwerk’s disruptive cache to UN, a legacy brand celebrating its 180th anniversary next year. The wandering hours tourbillon To understand why the UR-Freak is such a compelling collaboration, one must understand what UN and Urwerk bring to the table, respectively. The UN Freak turns 25 in 2026, marking a quarter-century of the quirky tourbillon that introduced silicon to watchmaking. That innovation alone would have secured the Freak’s place in watchmaking history, but it was arguably more memorable for its unusual design that put much of the movement (including the escapement) on a rotating platform on the dial. The Freak One is an example of the typical Freak architecture. Ulysse Nardin refers to this architecture as a flying carousel, perhaps to differentiate the standard models from those with a nested tourbillon. Nomenclature aside, it’s technically a tourbillon by nature of its operation, which powers the escapement through a fixed-ring gear (which can be seen around the edge of the dial). In all previous Freak models to date, the mo...

Best of 2025: Value Propositions Below US$10,000 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko moved up beyond Dec 22, 2025

Best of 2025: Value Propositions Below US$10,000

It was a mixed year for affordable watches, led by segment stalwart Tudor. While appealing offerings from brands like Grand Seiko moved up beyond the US$10,000 mark, the gap was filled by a slate of interesting releases from so-called micro-brands. Here is a selection of affordable releases under US$10,000 that stood out this year. Tudor Ranger 36 - SJX I’m a fan of Tudor – I own several – because its watches are well made and priced even better. But the brand is increasingly appealing because of its gradual evolution towards enthusiast-friendly designs. The Ranger 36 illustrates that. The original Ranger was a little bit too large for this vintage-inspired design. Tudor doubtlessly received feedback to that effect. It took the brand a while, but now the 36 mm version is pretty much spot-on. The compact size fits the design well and the watch also feels good on the wrist. And because the case and bracelet are both entirely brushed, the Ranger 36 also has a low-key look that makes it a practical watch in almost any situation. The “dune white” dial is also a nice touch; it’s a nod to the “albino” dials found on some vintage sports watches (from Rolex rather than Tudor, but that’s a distinction without a difference for most of the brands’ histories). And importantly, the Ranger 36 is the most affordable Tudor with an in-house movement. It’s a solid entry into Tudor’s world of sports watches with high-spec movements. As an aside, Tudor clearly excels ...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Vs. Tudor Black Bay Pro Fratello
Tudor Black Bay Pro It’s Dec 21, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Vs. Tudor Black Bay Pro

It’s Sunday morning, which means it’s time for a nice cup of coffee and an early morning watch battle. But as this is the last Sunday before Christmas, this will be the last Sunday Morning Showdown of the year. Next week, Jorg will look back at some of the most remarkable showdowns of 2025 to […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Vs. Tudor Black Bay Pro to read the full article.

Photo Report: Tudor Nazaré Big Wave Challenge 2025 Fratello
Tudor Nazaré Big Wave Challenge Dec 20, 2025

Photo Report: Tudor Nazaré Big Wave Challenge 2025

It’s late afternoon on a Thursday in mid-December when the call comes in: monsters are closing in on Nazaré. State-of-the-art satellite technology has detected the perfect kinetic sweep across the Atlantic, creating ideal conditions. This monster swell is heading straight for a small fishing village two hours north of Lisbon. But it’s not alone in […] Visit Photo Report: Tudor Nazaré Big Wave Challenge 2025 to read the full article.

Parts Of A Watch: Everything You Need To Know Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 19, 2025

Parts Of A Watch: Everything You Need To Know

If you're new to the watch appreciation game and anxious to engage in discussions, debates, and diatribes with fellow aficionados who have been into the hobby longer, you may have hesitated for one important reason: nailing the proper terminology. "What are all the parts of a watch called, anyway?" you may have asked yourself in moments of doubt. Never fear: we've assembled a primer below on all the important parts of a watch and what they do. [toc-section heading="The Watch Case"] The case is the outer shell of the watch, comparable to the chassis of a car. While a handful of cases are milled from a single block of metal (and called “monobloc”), most of them consist of three main parts, the caseback, case middle or casebody, and bezel. Cases can be made of a wide variety of materials, including but not limited to: plastic, resin, stainless steel, titanium, bronze, ceramic, various types of gold, and other precious metals such as platinum.Cases that combine different materials for their parts (i.e., a steel casebody and a gold or ceramic bezel) are referred to as “two-tone,” “bi-metal,” or “bi-material.”  [text-media heading="" text="The most traditional watch cases are round though watchmakers have used a variety of other shaped cases, some of which have become iconically associated with certain brands and models. These include cushion-shaped (“coussin”) cases, such as on the Panerai Luminor and Piaget Polo; square and rectangular cases, such as on t...

Fratello’s Top 5 Complicated Watches Of 2025 - Featuring Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, Breguet, And More Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Audemars Piguet Breguet Dec 19, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Complicated Watches Of 2025 - Featuring Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, Breguet, And More

Another Friday, another list! This week, we selected our five favorite complicated watches released in 2025. Indeed, many contenders were fighting for a spot among these. We have seen many impressive releases that either introduced new technologies or were groundbreaking due to the sheer number of complications involved. In life, though, it’s not just about […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Complicated Watches Of 2025 - Featuring Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, Breguet, And More to read the full article.

First Look – Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver GMT SPB534 Seashadow Monochrome
Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver Dec 19, 2025

First Look – Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver GMT SPB534 Seashadow

Seiko’s Prospex diver series has long established the brand´s reputation for serious underwater engineering, in particular with the 1968 300m water-resistant Professional Diver (6159), which stands as one of the brand’s earliest defining tool watches. That same character lives on in the modern Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver GMT series, introduced in 2023 as Seiko’s first […]

Best of 2025: Complications SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Dec 19, 2025

Best of 2025: Complications

After a slow year for complications last year, big brands showed up in force in 2025. Spurred by a number of major anniversaries celebrated by the likes of Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet, the year witnessed a range of record-setting and never-before-seen complications. The breadth and ambition of new complicated watches, some from unexpected corners, proved to be one of the defining themes of the year. Within this crowded field, a few stood out. Vacheron Constantin Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – Brandon Moore For collectors who keep a close eye on the record books, the year ended almost as soon as it began. At Watches & Wonders 2025, Vacheron Constantin unveiled the Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Première, a unique wristwatch that immediately became one of the most talked-about watches of the fair. The buzz was justified: the Solaria is the most complicated wristwatch ever made. Developed over eight years, the Solaria leverages 13 patents to bring together 41 complications across two dials. While the headline figure is the sheer number of functions, the Solaria’s true distinction lies in its astronomical indications. Four of its rare complications track the apparent path of the Sun, displaying its position, height, culmination, and declination – as observed from a specific location on Earth. Turning the watch over reveals another first: a celestial object tracker linked to a split-seconds chronograph. Twin rotating sapphire disc...

Best of 2025: Independent Watchmaking SJX Watches
Dec 19, 2025

Best of 2025: Independent Watchmaking

Independent watchmaking presented relatively few genuinely new releases in 2025. Many watchmakers instead reintroduced familiar models in new configurations or colourways - an approach typically associated with larger brands. The strongest releases were excellent, but they were few and far between. Our highlights reflect that: Urban Jürgensen’s relaunch stood out for its confidence and momentum, while Petermann Bédat and Raúl Pagès showed there is still room to say something new within the time-only format. Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon – SJX When I first heard about Urban Jürgensen being revived, I was sceptical. Could an investor halfway across the world and a watchmaker busy with his own brand pull it off? As it turned out, they could. The Rosenfields, Andy and Alex, father and son, and Kari Voutilainen, managed to put together a collection of three watches – all impressively conceived and executed – and then deliver a good number of watches in the months since the launch in mid-2025. The flagship of the Urban Jürgensen line-up and clearly its best creation to date is the UJ-1. A tourbillon with remontoir, the UJ-1 is modelled on the Oval pocket watch that was made by Derek Pratt for Urban Jürgensen. The movement instantly feels like it was descended from the Oval, which is a feat considering the disparity in scale. Mr Voutilainen managed to translate many of the key elements of the Oval into wristwatch format, including the “floating” barrel and...

Topo Designs Global Briefcase Review: A Versatile 3-Way Work Bag That Switches Between Backpack and Messenger Worn & Wound
Dec 18, 2025

Topo Designs Global Briefcase Review: A Versatile 3-Way Work Bag That Switches Between Backpack and Messenger

When I’m planning to leave the house for a full day – whether I’m headed to work or someplace else – I’m a chronic overpacker. To me, there’s peace of mind in knowing I have an extra charger, granola bar, or jacket with me, especially when returning home isn’t easy. Traveling to the office adds an additional layer of expectation when considering a bag, as I bring multiple laptops and a lunch with me most days.  I’ve gone back and forth on whether I’m Team Messenger Bag or Team Backpack when it comes to my corporate 9 to 5. I like the significant storage options that a backpack offers and the stability and comfort it provides when walking long distances. Yet messenger bags fit my usual style in a better way, and I like that I can access the main compartments while on the go (not possible with a backpack). I was really intrigued by the Global Briefcase  ($149) from Topo Designs as it meant I didn’t have to commit to one camp or the other. I was curious if the brand could do both modalities equally well. My needs in a work bag are very different from my needs in an outdoor bag. The Topo Designs Rover Trail Pack I reviewed in May held all of my gear in a stacked, vertical fashion. I didn’t need to access anything particularly urgently, which meant I loaded the bag from the top down. This sort of set-up isn’t ideal for my work needs though, when I prefer all of my items to have their own space. To test out this bag, I used both carry styles over a few ...