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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen’s Monaco and What Sotheby’s Catalogues Really Tell You

Steve McQueen’s Le Mans Heuer Monaco 1133B crossed Sotheby’s block. The above-the-date-window detail collectors spotted, the hammer price, why it matters.

Louis Vuitton Dresses Up Its New Escale In Turquoise Or Malachite Fratello
Louis Vuitton Dresses Up Nov 19, 2025

Louis Vuitton Dresses Up Its New Escale In Turquoise Or Malachite

Louis Vuitton introduced its time-only Escale dress watch last year to mark the collection’s 10th anniversary. We found the rose gold and platinum models with their trunk-inspired design and attractive grainy dials quite charming. RJ characterized them as dress watches that didn’t look like your typical grandfather’s watch. Well, the same is true of the […] Visit Louis Vuitton Dresses Up Its New Escale In Turquoise Or Malachite to read the full article.

TAG Heuer’s Split-Seconds Goes High Tech with Laser Sintering SJX Watches
TAG Heuer s Split-Seconds Goes High Nov 19, 2025

TAG Heuer’s Split-Seconds Goes High Tech with Laser Sintering

TAG Heuer flexes its research and development muscles again with the performance-oriented Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Air 1. Using the iconic square chronograph as a base, the brand’s engineers took inspiration from its Formula 1 partnership to explore new manufacturing techniques for this 30-piece limited edition that boasts an ultra-light, hollowed-out 18k gold case fabricated with laser additive manufacturing. Initial thoughts The original Monaco from Heuer remains one of the more enduring chronograph designs, with the storied past and distinctive square form. It is refreshing to see TAG Heuer using it as a base for newer, technologically-oriented pieces. This new limited edition takes the already-supercharged crystallised titanium split-seconds released earlier this year and reimagines the square case. The result is a honeycomb-patterned case that is surprisingly lightweight for the size and material. The complex and layered construction of the Air 1, here in an exploded view. The team at TAG Heuer employed a new additive manufacturing technique with the goal of a sturdy yet remarkably light chronograph. Keeping in mind that gold is a dense (thus heavy) metal, making a watch that qualifies as “lightweight” is usually incompatible with including the precious alloy. Here the engineers came up with a way to reduce the volume of gold used, while keeping the components’ sturdiness intact. The timepiece itself can be a little much in terms of styling, with the ...

Ressence Introduces a Type 1° with a Touch of Gold for Dubai Watch Week Worn & Wound
Ressence Introduces Nov 18, 2025

Ressence Introduces a Type 1° with a Touch of Gold for Dubai Watch Week

Dubai Watch Week is here, and with it, so are a lot of new watches. Ressence is marking the moment with a new limited edition take on their Type 1°, pairing what is maybe the most core model in their lineup with a rose gold-plated dial to create something that feels both familiar and novel all at once. Produced in a limited edition of 70 pieces worldwide, this is the Ressence Type 1°RG. Ressence, as a brand, is many things to many people. For some, it’s a colorful, exuberant exploration of the fun side of independent watches - a very high-end G-SHOCK of sorts, a balm for the soul weighed down far too often by the staid and serious watches that so often clog our Instagram feeds. For others, Ressence is that staid, serious watch; a brand pushing to the extremes of what a watch can be, exploring not just the complexities of modern watchmaking, but challenging the very nature of how time can be displayed and perceived. Naturally, each of these slightly pretentiously phrased extremes captures only a part of the whole; like most things, the reality of Ressence falls somewhere in the middle of these two perspectives. Still, Ressence is a brand that deservedly invites interest, and this latest release is no exception. In practice, the Type 1° is the prototypical Ressence, a pretty straightforward summation of what it takes to be a Ressence watch, and, as such, it has often served as a platform for the brand to play with its own aesthetic. In the past, we’ve seen Ressence ...

Zenith Introduces a Limited Edition Defy Extreme with a Lapis Lazuli Dial Worn & Wound
Zenith Introduces Nov 18, 2025

Zenith Introduces a Limited Edition Defy Extreme with a Lapis Lazuli Dial

I love the Zenith Defy. I never miss an opportunity to tell people that it’s my favorite sports watch line of all time. I’m guessing that I’ve had a version of this conversation so many times over the years that my colleagues and watch-friends can feel it coming at this point. I can sense that eye roll is not far behind me going over once again how the Defy has always represented the ideal meeting place between the avant-garde and true sports watch engineering. Look, I make no apologies. If you can’t see that the Defy has been a subtle influence on everything from the Royal Oak to the most generic Rolex sports watches, well, stay tuned for my long threatened multi-part solo podcast series unpacking my personal obsession with these watches.  One of the things that has always fascinated me about the Defy is how it can be anything. The watches in this collection have never fit neatly into a specific mold, and unlike, say, the Rolex Submariner, which has basically looked like the same watch since its debut, the Defy has always been a shapeshifter. The only thing steady about the design has been that it could always morph and change into something radical and different, and often something that is not to everyone’s taste (even longtime fans of the collection). That’s basically what’s been on my mind since learning of the new Zenith Defy Extreme Lapis Lazuli, a maximal take on the sports watch that latches on to some current trends.  This is a Defy Extreme, so it...

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne’s Saxonia Thin Onyx is German Formal SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Nov 17, 2025

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne’s Saxonia Thin Onyx is German Formal

One of the last launches of 2025 for A. Lange & Söhne, the Saxonia Thin Onyx is a riff on the brand’s most affordable and simplest watch. It’s only modestly different from the standard model – the dial is onyx stone while the case metal isn’t part of regular production – but the Saxonia Thin Onyx stands out. The watch is almost the dictionary definition of a formal-wear timepiece: flat, two hands and minimal colour or embellishment, so much so it blends into conventional Western formal dress. In fact, this is one of the strongest offerings in the formal-dress-watch segment because it is stark, elegant, and priced well. Initial thoughts Lange tend towards the high end of the price spectrum simply because of the brand’s focus on complications and quality. And the brand has also raised retail prices significantly in the last few years. So an affordable-ish Lange that isn’t a run-of-the-mill watch is a good thing. The Saxonia Thin Onyx is exactly that. While it is based on Lange’s entry-level dress watch, a fine but no frills timepiece, the onyx edition is different in look, feel, and materials. It’s available in two metals not offered for the regular production – platinum and Honeygold – and the dial is of course onyx, a mineral stone used sparingly (so far) in limited editions. At 6.2 mm high, the case is half the thickness of a Datograph and sits flat against the wrist. Though the case is 40 mm rather than the smaller size offered for the standard mod...

Tokyo Retailer Shellman Celebrates Christiaan Huygens SJX Watches
Nov 17, 2025

Tokyo Retailer Shellman Celebrates Christiaan Huygens

In order to mark the spiral hairspring’s 350th anniversary and celebrate its inventor Christiaan Huygens (1629 – 1695), Japanese watch retailer Shellman presents a two-week exhibition event in Tokyo, The Origins of Time = Astronomy. Opening November 19 and slated to run through December 2, the Shellman exhibit is a collaboration with the Musée International d’Horlogerie (MIH) in La Chaux-de-Fonds, and showcases the larger extent of Huygens’ work, from horology to optical observation devices. Themed around the Dutch scientist credited with building the first pendulum clock and with inventing the hairspring, the exhibit also explores larger fields of horology, with a focus on astronomy and modern independent watchmaking. Original drawings showing early attempts at making a sprung balance. Beyond his practical applications in horology, Huygens left marks on many other scientific fields, from geometry to physics and astronomy. He notably discovered Saturn’s largest moon Titan and cemented the wave theory of light propagation. One could say that he was interested in the celestial bodies as much as he was in understanding motion and measuring time here on Earth. In his honour, the exhibit leans on the astronomical theme as well.  The exhibition is accompanied by a selection of special watches available for sale. Visitors will have the chance to acquire the world’s smallest wristwatch planetarium, the Planetarium Christiaan Huygens Limited Edition, created by the Du...

Nezumi Introduces A Stylishly Updated Version Of Its Baleine Dive Watch Fratello
Nov 17, 2025

Nezumi Introduces A Stylishly Updated Version Of Its Baleine Dive Watch

Stockholm-based brand Nezumi is one I always keep a close eye on, and it has established quite a reputation for creating outstanding, affordable watches with retro style and vibrant colors. Nezumi truly understands the important role color plays in making watches stand out. One of the most popular models in the brand’s catalog is the […] Visit Nezumi Introduces A Stylishly Updated Version Of Its Baleine Dive Watch to read the full article.

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Celestia Astronomer Duo SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Celestia Astronomer Duo Marking Nov 17, 2025

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Celestia Astronomer Duo

Marking its 270th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin has approached the milestone with uncommon ambition. The anniversary programme continues with a duo of one-of-a-kind Les Cabinotiers pieces - Celestia Homage to Ptolemy and Celestia Homage to Copernicus - developed under the brand’s ongoing “The Quest” theme. These one-off creations showcase the manufacture’s dual mastery of horology and métiers d’art. Presented here is a rare hands-on look at both before they disappear into private collections. The pair follows an already packed year that opened with the debut of the Solaria, a landmark wristwatch that claims the title of the most complicated ever made thanks to its 41 functions. Soon after came La Quête du Temps, a monumental astronomical clock that recently wrapped up its exhibition at the Louvre in Paris. Taken together, these creations underscore not only the scale of VC’s technical reach but also the brand’s talent for blending engineering, artistry, and traditional craft. Initial thoughts Each of the new Les Cabinotiers watches expresses a different facet of VC’s watchmaking identity. The new Celestia references utilise the brand’s earlier cal. 3600, but elevate it through intricate case engraving that links science with art. As a pair, these watches reinforce the idea that VC’s greatest strength lies in synthesis. Few manufactures can move so fluidly between engineering precision and artistic refinement. As unique pieces, pricing is largel...

Photo Report: Fratello × Breitling Event In Enschede Fratello
Breitling Event Nov 14, 2025

Photo Report: Fratello × Breitling Event In Enschede

Last week, we hosted the Fratello × Breitling event at Koelink Jewelers in Enschede, a city in the eastern part of the Netherlands, very close to Germany. This event was not only to celebrate the opening of the Breitling boutique there but also to highlight all the amazing Breitling releases from 2025. Breitling boutique in […] Visit Photo Report: Fratello × Breitling Event In Enschede to read the full article.

Fratello’s Top 5 Currently Available Tudor Watches Fratello
Tudor Watches Another Friday another Nov 14, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Currently Available Tudor Watches

Another Friday, another list! The end of the year is almost in sight, and with that in mind, we will soon start our series of best-of lists for 2025. One of the brands that had a relatively quiet year compared to previous ones was Tudor. During Watches and Wonders, the brand presented some solid additions […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Currently Available Tudor Watches to read the full article.

Highlights: Pocket Watches at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nov 14, 2025

Highlights: Pocket Watches at Phillips Hong Kong

The upcoming Phillips Hong Kong auction includes a diverse and spectacular selection of pocket watches spanning two centuries. From early 19th‑century enamel masterpieces crafted for the Chinese market to 20th‑century tourbillon chronometers that triumphed at observatory trials, the lots on offer demonstrate the technical and aesthetic evolution of the watch over the last two hundred years. Lot 1086 – S. Smith and Son No. 1899-1 Tourbillon Chronometer with Kew Class A Certificate Albert Pellaton-Favre constructed the first of two tourbillons in the auction, which was later retailed by S. Smith & Son. The other, by Patek Philippe, is the work of his son, Jämes-César Pellaton. Both are depicted in Reinhard Meis’s famous Das Tourbillon. The English and Swiss disagreed on what constitutes a chronometer. The English argued that a chronometer must use a chronometer (detent) escapement, while the Swiss considered any watch a chronometer if performed well enough – which the English would call a “Half-Chronometer”. As the Willis enamel dial boasts, the first is a chronometer by both English and Swiss reckoning, with a spring detent escapement and “Especially Good” certificate from the Kew Observatory. While S. Smith and Son retailed quite a number of tourbillons, including others with detent escapements, most were sourced locally, while the present lot uses a Swiss movement. The London branch of Baume Frères ordered six tourbillon chronometers from Albert Pella...

Hands On: Double-Faced Grand Comps for Vacheron Constantin’s 270th SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s 270th Marking Nov 13, 2025

Hands On: Double-Faced Grand Comps for Vacheron Constantin’s 270th

Marking its 270th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin (VC) has celebrated in grand style, exemplified by the year’s latest, a pair of double-dial grand complications: Les Cabinotiers Cosmica Duo and Les Cabinotiers Moon Dust. Initial thoughts Each of the new Les Cabinotiers watches expresses a different facet of VC’s watchmaking identity. The Cosmica Duo stands out as a true wrist-worn observatory, combining 24 astronomical indications with a reversible construction that makes it unusually wearable for its complexity, while the baguette-set Moon Dust translates horological ambition into pure jewellery, with hundreds of diamonds framing a movement that remains uncompromisingly mechanical. As a group, these watches reinforce the idea that VC’s greatest strength lies in synthesis. Few manufactures can move so fluidly between engineering precision and artistic refinement, or treat engraving, gem-setting, and chiming mechanisms as parallel forms of expression. As unique pieces, pricing is largely outside the scope of this hands-on evaluation. As is typical for VC’s bespoke Les Cabinotiers department, each watch was almost certainly developed in close collaboration with its eventual owner, making them more commissions than catalogue items. Their value, therefore, lies not only in their material complexity but also in the fact that each represents a personal chapter in the continuing story of Geneva’s oldest watchmaker. The layered architecture of the Cosmica Duo. Image ...

Fratello Talks: With Claude Greisler Of Armin Strom Fratello
Armin Strom Nov 13, 2025

Fratello Talks: With Claude Greisler Of Armin Strom

On this week’s episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho and RJ sit down with Claude Greisler, co-founder and master watchmaker at Armin Strom. Together, they explore Claude’s journey from a young apprentice to leading one of Switzerland’s most technically inventive independent brands. The trio discusses how Armin Strom evolved from a workshop known for skeletonization to […] Visit Fratello Talks: With Claude Greisler Of Armin Strom to read the full article.

What Is A Fluted Bezel On A Watch? Teddy Baldassarre
Ming Nov 12, 2025

What Is A Fluted Bezel On A Watch?

If you’re new to the watch-collecting hobby, you’ve undoubtedly seen or heard references to watches with fluted bezels, but what does that description actually mean? Are fluted bezels a feature of sports watches or dress watches, of watches for men or for ladies? Are they designed for practical use or purely as an aesthetic touch? As is common in the world of watches, the answers to all of these questions are not as simple as you might think.  Before getting into the fluted type in particular, let’s get really basic and review what a watch’s bezel is and what it’s for. As we explore in more detail here, a bezel is the front part of a watch’s case (often but not always ring-shaped) that frames the dial and secures the crystal. Bezels can be made of the same material as the case middle and/or the caseback, but can also be made of a different material. They can also be thin or wide; stationary or built to rotate in either one direction or both; purely decorative (i.e., set with diamonds) or utilitarian in nature (i.e., inscribed with a scale for some type of calculation). Fluting is defined as “a groove or set of grooves forming a surface decoration,” so a fluted bezel is one that features this type of grooved or ribbed texture on its top surface. Initially, as with most every element of a watch, a fluted bezel design was designed with a practical purpose in mind: the grooved surface made it easier for a watchmaker to screw the bezel tightly into the case to...

LVMH Acquires Stake in Movement Maker La Joux-Perret SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton LVMH just announced Nov 12, 2025

LVMH Acquires Stake in Movement Maker La Joux-Perret

The world’s largest luxury group, Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH), just announced that it has taken a minority stake in Swiss movement manufacturer La Joux-Perret, an important supplier to the group’s watch brands as well as the industry at large. Owned by Citizen of Japan, La Joux-Perret also controls a few of its own brands, including Arnold & Son and Angelus, that will remain independent. The solar-powered TAG Heuer Formula 1 that relies on technology licensed from Citizen Initial thoughts LVMH’s investment in La Joux-Perret marks a logical next step in its long-term effort to consolidate movement production within the group. Such arrangements are becoming increasingly common - Hermès and Chanel, for instance, have taken similar minority stakes in movement makers Vaucher and Kenissi, respectively. LVMH, which owns TAG Heuer, Bulgari, Zenith, Hublot, and of course Louis Vuitton, had already hinted at this direction. Last year, Frédéric Arnault, son of Bernard Arnault and then the head of LVMH’s watch division, proposed expanding Zenith’s manufacture to supply movements to other group brands. That plan has been partly realised with Zenith now producing Bulgari’s Solotempo calibre. However, the idea of Zenith supplying a high-volume brand like TAG Heuer always seemed unlikely, which helps explain this latest move. La Joux-Perret’s solar technology for movements is particularly important to TAG Heuer, the most important watch brand in LVMH in terms o...