Hodinkee
Pre-Owned Picks: A Silver-Toned And Subtle Day-Date, An Annual Calendar From Patek Philippe, And A High-Tech Speedmaster With Mid-Century Charm
Plus, a white-dialed Luminor and a brightly blue chronograph from Zenith.
Results for Flyback Chronograph
3,634 articles · 485 videos found · page 114 of 138
Hodinkee
Monochrome
First Look – The New Airain Type 20 “Up in the Air” with seconde/seconde/
Founded in 1934, Airain was one of the original suppliers of the iconic Type 20 chronograph issued to French military pilots in the 1950s and 60s. The brand was dormant until its resurrection in 2020 by Dutch entrepreneur Tom van Wijlick, who also spearheaded the 2014 relaunch of Lebois & Co, which brought back the […]
Fratello
A Dial For Diving - The Singer Divetrack Is One Of The Most Impressive Watches I’ve Seen In 2024
Singer Reimagined had quite a surprise in store for us with the introduction of the Divetrack chronograph. It’s not a typical dive watch and even goes beyond the dive watches we already find unusual (okay, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms X Fathoms might be an exception to a certain extent). The Divetrack offers a dial that […] Visit A Dial For Diving - The Singer Divetrack Is One Of The Most Impressive Watches I’ve Seen In 2024 to read the full article.
Hodinkee
In-Depth: A Detailed Look At The Incredible 40 Years Of Porsche Design
A look back at a deeply influential chronograph and its connection to a legendary family brand.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Seiko Pogue SSC 947: Your Guide
There are some watches out there that have achieved a rare sort of infamy and the Seiko Speedtimer 6139, also known as the “Pogue,” is one such watch. It is named after Colonel William R. Pogue who wore one during NASA’s Skylab missions. It was also the first automatic chronograph to travel to space. It’s become an icon because of its historical bona fides, but also because of it’s positively ridiculous (read, charming) colorway that fits so well in the ‘70s decade in which it was conceived. Key aesthetic tenets of a Pogue are the red and blue bezel insert and a certain yellowish-gold dial. It’s the sort of gold color that’ll have you conspiracy theorizing that this watch was in the Pulp Fiction briefcase. All of this backstory and preamble is to intentionally bury the lede and tell you that Seiko has, today, brought the Pogue back…sort of. Say hello to the Speedtimer Solar Chronograph, SSC947 which follows in the recently established design format of the solar Speedtimer range – the 41.5mm case size version of which the current Pepsi bezel SSC913 is a personal favorite. I remember when the line was announced and really loving the execution from the compact pushers to the great case size to the overall thinness due to the lack of a mechanical movement. And look, while the Pogue owes much of its fame to the fact that it housed an automatic caliber, we cannot just expect brands to issue 1:1 remakes of classic models. Seiko needs to innovate. It found a ...
Monochrome
First Look – The Zenith Defy Skyline White Ceramic Skeleton
Released in 2022, the Defy Skyline collection was Zenith‘s answer to the large demand for sports watches with integrated design and bracelet. Since its initial introduction, we have seen multiple new editions of this watch, including compact versions, ceramic models, a chronograph and even a high-frequency tourbillon. But one of the most impactful models was […]
SJX Watches
Hands On: Lange Datograph Up/Down 25th Anniversary
A. Lange & Söhne marks the 25th year of its landmark chronograph this year, with two commemorative editions so far – a tremendously expensive all-in-one edition and the relatively more accessible Datograph Up/Down 25th Anniversary. The first Datograph with a white gold case and also the first regular production model with a blue dial, the anniversary edition the result of a relatively modest cosmetic makeover – but unexpectedly compelling. Initial thoughts The Datograph in an imperfect watch – amongst other things it’s top heavy with a somewhat dated dial design – but it has an intrinsic appeal because its movement is outstanding. Even though it’s already 25 years old, the movement remains exceptional in terms of aesthetics. The fact that it’s 25 years old also makes the Datograph important, because Lange created such a movement long before such things became a thing. So the 25th anniversary of the Datograph is an occasion worth marking. Lange debuted two watches for the anniversary (with perhaps a third one to come): the complicated and expensive Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen, and the more accessible Datograph 25th Anniversary. On its face the Datograph Up/Down seems a bit mundane for an anniversary watch. Both the blue dial and white gold case are unique for the Datograph, but together the watch doesn’t look or feel that different. But like the Datograph as a model, the anniversary edition is imperfect yet appealing. Though it is plain...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The New Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe In Ceramic
With a complete calendar, chronograph, and automatic option, the Bathyscaphe gets a full ceramic bracelet.
SJX Watches
Exhibition: Breitling’s “Time Capsule” on Four Continents
Time Capsule: The Breitling Heritage Exhibition is coming to a Breitling boutique near you as it makes 55 stops across four continents over the course of 2024. On show are the most significant vintage timepieces – mostly chronographs naturally – from the brand’s 140-year history, including the first-ever chronograph with a pusher separate from the crown, a 1915 invention of Gaston Breitling. Many of the watches on show were the first of their kind, hence the exhibition’s tagline “140 Years of Firsts”. Amongst the other highlights is the Navitimer with its slide rule bezel that Breitling describes as the first flight computer for the wrist, and the Chrono-Matic, the first self-winding chronograph movement developed by a consortium that included Breitling. Amongst the more recent timepieces is the Emergency, the first wristwatch with a built-in distress beacon. The vintage timepieces are exhibited in streamer-trunk display cases tailored to each boutique with QR codes in the showcases that provide additional historical detail Vintage timepieces are the main highlights of the show. The exhibition is making stops in key cities in the Americas, Europe, Oceania, the Middle East, and Asia, with some stops happening concurrently. Each stop will be for one to two weeks in the local Breitling boutique. Time Capsule is open to the public. Scheduling an appointment is not mandatory but recommended. A few of the cities that will host the exhibition are as follows, for the ...
Monochrome
Introducing – The new Gradient Green Oris Divers Sixty-Five Date 40mm
While the Aquis, which has been recently revised, represents the modern side of dive watches at Oris, the Divers Sixty-Five collection is, as you might have guessed by the name, its vintage-inspired counterpart. An instrumental model for the brand’s recent history, the ’65 has been presented in dozens of editions, with manufacture movement, a chronograph, […]
W
Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
A Week in Watches Ep. 83 – Oh No, More MoonSwatches!
On episode 83 of A Week in Watches, we take a look at three new relatively affordable releases. First is a new powerhouse of a chronograph from Farer with unique functionality. Next is a new addition to Seiko’s Craftsmanship line, featuring a dial of beautiful Arita porcelain. Last, the Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch returns again with some vibrant colors. This week’s episode is brought to you by Windup Watch Fair Chicago, which is preparing to kick off on July 12th. Eindup Chicago is heading into its third year and will feature over 40 brands, including Christopher Ward, Citizen, Fortis, G-SHOCK, Oris, and many more. Located at Venue West in West Town, it’s sure to be another exciting year. Learn more at Windupwatchfair.com The post A Week in Watches Ep. 83 – Oh No, More MoonSwatches! appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Quill & Pad
Pastorale II by Chinese Independent Watchmaker Qin Gan: the Epitome of a Modern Dress Watch
Independent Chinese watchmaker Qin Gan has over thirty years of experience in antique watch restorations and has crafted numerous prototype watches with complex features such as flyback, tourbillon, automaton, and repeater mechanisms. He now launches his second model under his own brand, the sublime Pastorale II.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Beaufort Pulsatimer
So far 2024 is a year where brands have been belting out bombastic bangers of watches one after another. So, when a different take on a beloved complication is dropped, we naturally crane our necks to peek at what’s new. The first Swiss chronograph in New Zealand based Beaufort’s lineup highlights the old school idea of a doctor/medic’s watch with a pulsometer as the primary complication. It takes this complication and sets it inside a case and dial that are elegant, yet industrial, but some of the changes made to the chronograph functionality caused me to ask some questions. The Beaufort Pulsatimer, upon quick inspection, might look like your average chrono, but the longer you linger over its construction, the more you’ll start to notice its unique styling. The case is almost totally brushed, with the exception of thinly polished chamfered edges and a polished inner bezel ring. The polished ring steps up from a brushed base bezel ring like the watch is laying its own foundation. And rising once more from the step bezel is a significantly raised box sapphire crystal. All this architecture pulls your eye into a dial that dramatically drops from the crystal with the sloped pulsometer chapter ring. Then we find a beautiful, vertically brushed copper-colored dial that Beaufort calls “Salmon.” They also have an all black, DLC coated version, a reverse panda black and silver dial, and an all silver dial version of the Pulsatimer. The architectural nuances of the ca...
Deployant
New colours for De Bethune DB Eight
De Bethune releases 2 new iterations of the DB Eight chronograph: in white gold case and royal blue dial, and in a yellow case with a chocolate dial.
Worn & Wound
The Latest Collaboration Between TAG Heuer and Porsche Celebrates the German Automaker’s History in Endurance Racing
TAG Heuer has unveiled their latest Carrera, another collaboration with Porsche, officially dubbed the Carrera Chronograph x Porsche 963. As watch enthusiasts know, there’s a range of how “Porschey” these collaborations get. Sometimes they simply have the German automaker’s badge slapped onto the watch somewhere, and sometimes the connection is very inside baseball, like when TAG made a new chronograph movement that accelerated at the same rate as a classic 911. This new watch is somewhere in the middle, with some clever visual winks to the car that inspired it, but nothing new under the hood. The new watch takes its specific inspiration from Porsche’s success in endurance racing. The Porsche 963, developed under Le Mans Daytona Hybrid regulations, is the current pinnacle of Porsche’s expertise in endurance, a tradition that goes back decades. This is an aggressive take on the Carrera, which is a watch that we’ve seen wear many different capes in recent years. It’s a platform that is perhaps most at home as a traditional, elegant, gentleman’s racing chronograph, but can flex into something far more contemporary with relative ease. The 44mm case is stainless steel and coated in black PVD, and has been accented with a carbon fiber bezel with a tachymetric scale. Naturally we get a complex, skeletonized dial (nothing says “modern and contemporary” like skeletonization, I guess) as well as plenty of lume. The lume is actually what most closely links t...
SJX Watches
New Colours and Cases for the Singer Reimagined 1969
Singer Reimagined is dropping new variants of the 1969 Chronograph and 1969 Timer that maintain the same design as the originals from last year, but with the option of a new case material, bronze, as well as new dial colours. The bronze models get a matte green dial, while the steel variants have a sun-ray, silver-toned dial. Initial thoughts An outlier amongst watch brands, Singer Reimagined is actually the sister brand of Singer Vehicle Design, one of the most prominent rebuilders of vintage Porsches. So rather than the usual watch brand making a car-inspired watch, it is a carmaker making a watch. The 1969 Timer The unusual chronograph display, retro cushion-shaped case, and racetrack-inspired bracelet all have clear automotive inspiration and are fairly unique in themselves, but for watch enthusiasts the key selling point will be the Agenhor movements (both are equipped with variants of the same base calibre). The movement is especially notable for its ingenious construction, where amongst other innovations the rotor is placed underneath the dial to provide an unobstructed view of the moving parts. The 1969 Chronograph movement Priced at CHF31,500 and CHF53,500 respectively, the 1969 Timer and the 1969 Chronograph aren’t inexpensive. While the 1969 Timer is relatively simple as a one-minute timer and consequently pricey, the chronograph is priced fairly given the unique nature of the movement. New variations of existing lineups The Singer Reimagined 1969 models share...
Worn & Wound
De Bethune Launches Two New DB Eight References
A little over a year on from the release of the DB Eight, De Bethune is following up the mono-usher chronograph with two new variants, each in gold, and each of which offers a welcome look back at the early days of the brand. De Bethune is a brand well-versed in the avant-garde. The name alone tends to conjure images of remarkably blue tourbillons with spring-loaded lugs, and other sci-fi-esque watches. In the last few years, De Bethune has become well known for pushing the boundaries of watchmaking in both a technical and aesthetic sense - they even sent a watch to (near) space on the wrist of Michael Strahan. If you’re only familiar with De Bethune thanks to watches like the DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon or the DB28GS Yellow Submarine, looking back at the early days of De Bethune might come with a bit of a surprise. Early De Bethunes stood out not because of any outrageous architecture or wild case finishing, but rather thanks to a refined - and very traditional - look, backed up by the technical prowess of Denis Flageollet, the brand’s founder. The DB8 was one of these early, very traditional watches. Though still identifiable as a De Bethune thanks to its bullet lugs and three-part case, the DB8 was (in most senses) a very traditional take on the concept of a mono-pusher chronograph dress watch. The new DB Eight is a fitting follow up to that watch, holding on to much of the original’s concept and charm, but with each and every detail refined and update...
Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Defy Revival A3648 Review
There is no doubt that most enthusiasts think of the brand Zenith and picture, in their mind’s eye, a chronograph – a chronograph powered by the now storied El Primero automatic chronograph movement which debuted in 1969. Triple use of the word chronograph in one sentence notwithstanding, it punctuates the kind of watch associated with this powerhouse of a brand. And 1969 was a monumental year for automatic chronographs. But it was also the year Zenith introduced its punchy, ready for the 1970s, and decidedly orange dive watch: The Defy A3648. Yes, a Zenith diver was released the same year as the El Primero…and the latter clearly took off on a trajectory far different from that of its aquatic counterpart. Vintage Zenith A3648 from around the time of the watch's launch. Over the past decade or so, Zenith has proven itself to be unmatched in the watch game when it comes to revivals, homages, re-editions, whatever you like to call them (Zenith literally calls them “Revivals” so we will too). Some Zenith Revival models are modern riffs on vintage designs, with slight tweaks, while others are near 1:1 recreations. Think back to the Defy Revival models of the past two years, with both black and ruby dial options. Those were authentic recreations down to the vintage-style clasps (an under-looked component of homage, if you ask me!). At Watches & Wonders 2024, Zenith returned to the 1969 well and brought its spunky orange dive watch back to life in the form of the De...
Monochrome
Introducing – New Colours and Materials for the Singer Reimagined 1969 Chrono and 1969 Timer
Singer Reimagined, founded by Rob Dickinson of Singer Vehicle Design fame and Marco Borraccino, a watch designer, raced into the watch world with the Track 1, an incredible 1970s-inspired chronograph with a high-end movement designed by watch wizard Jean-Marc Wiederrecht (Agenhor). Capitalising on the profound ties between petrol heads and cog heads, Singer Reimagined is […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The Mido Multifort TV Big Date Tunes into a More Luxurious Channel
Mido’s decision to revisit some of its vintage models and update them with contemporary specs has resulted in some very attractive yet affordable pieces. Models like the 1960s-inspired Ocean Star Decompression Timer with its colourful dial, the 1930s-styled Patrimony Chronograph and the more recent Multifort TV Big Date are winning combinations of retro details and modern […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The Robot Minor In Le Mans Blue
Today, we go hands-on with a unique-looking chronograph. The Czech-made Robot Minor will not be confused for a retro re-release. It also bucks the current trend of smaller watches with its 44mm diameter. Still, this is a well-made watch that takes a different approach to a tribute piece. Let’s strap in for a trip to […] Visit Hands-On With The Robot Minor In Le Mans Blue to read the full article.
Deployant
Bvlgari Aluminium: three new models
Bvlgari adds three new dials to their iconic Aluminium collection: the Black GMT, Aluminium Chronograph Smeraldo and Aluminium White Automatic.
Monochrome
Introducing – Carl F. Bucherer Expands Its Manero Collection, Including the new Manero Urban
The Manero is a pillar of the Carl F. Bucherer collections. This higher-end, contemporary line with elegant details showcases some of the brand’s best complications and some of its most striking movements, in particular those with the peripheral technology. The brand just released several new models for the Manero Flyback, Manero Peripheral and a new […]
Quill & Pad
Interview with Singer Reimagined Co-Founder and CEO Marco Borraccino: History, Present (the excellent Divetrack), and Future
Marco Borraccino began working on Singer Reimagined’s first model back in 2014. He launched the Track1 in 2017, which won the Prize for the Best Chronograph at the 2018 GPHG. Since then, three more collections of timepieces have been added to the Singer Reimagined portfolio: 1969, FlyTrack, and in 2024 the Divetrack.
SJX Watches
The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Goes Two-Tone
Omega continues to expand the range of its famous chronograph with the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Bi-Colour. Following the recent Moonwatch with a white dial, the two-tone models are based on the Speedmaster cal. 3861 from 2021. The new pair share the 42 mm case, stepped dial, and “Nixon” bracelet, but they get a two-tone livery with gold elements in the bracelet, bezel, dial, crown, and pushers. And the gold is, of course, either one of Omega’s proprietary alloys, Moonshine or Sedna gold. Initial thoughts Before the long-overdue update in 2021, most notably with the cal. 3861, the Speedmaster Moonwatch was beginning to feel dated in terms of tech and specs. The iterations introduced since the update have been spaced out well and fill logical gaps in the Moonwatch lineup, essentially creating a variant of the Moonwatch for everyone. This two-tone pair is a good example of that. Though steel-and-gold variants of the Moonwatch have existed in the past, they have never been common, or even that popular. The new models aren’t for everyone, but a useful addition to the lineup. Both are Moonwatches in terms of intrinsic features and design, but look very different from the quintessential, no-frills steel model. The two-tone models cater to someone who wants a Moonwatch with a bit more shine and a slightly retro feel. At US$18,100, the two-tone Speedmaster is a fair value proposition. It’s significantly pricier than the all-steel version, but priced in line with...
![First Look – The Brutalist Audemars Piguet [Re]Master02 (Incl. Video)](https://monochrome-watches.com/app/uploads/2024/05/Audemars-Piguet-ReMaster02-Selfwinding-Sand-Gold-15240SG-asymmetrical-reissue-5159BA-review-video-10.jpg)
Monochrome
First Look – The Brutalist Audemars Piguet [Re]Master02 (Incl. Video)
Audemars Piguet launched its first [Re]Master model with the recreation of a superb chronograph from the 1940s. For the second chapter of this historical collection, the brand reimagines one of its most expressive designs from the 1960s. A model of brutalist inspiration, the reference 5159BA stands out with its yellow gold asymmetrical case and eccentric […]
Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Introduces a New Skeletonized Monaco
Once again, TAG Heuer has released a new Monaco chronograph to celebrate the running of the Monaco Grand Prix, which took place over the weekend in, you guessed it, Monaco. While it’s surely a bit on-the-nose to unveil a new chronograph that is named after the race itself on race weekend, we’ll forgive TAG here given the simple fact that the Monaco Grand Prix’s place in our culture. If it’s not one of the most watched races in the world, it’s certainly one of the most recognizable and well known. The word “Monaco” to many will immediately conjure images of the race, unless it’s heard by a watch collector, in which case iconic square cased chrono is likely to be front of mind. In any event, not introducing a new Monaco on race weekend would likely amount to a tactical error on TAG Heuer’s part, given the intense focus on F1 over the weekend. The new watch is effectively a new variant of the watch released last year, which introduced skeleton dials to the Monaco collection with brightly colored accents and lightweight titanium cases. Here we have a DLC coated titanium case measuring 39mm across and 15.2mm tall, with a skeletonized dial featuring dark blue and bright yellow accents. Skeleton dials can, of course, sometimes be a bit difficult to read, but time-telling on the skeletonized Monaco is fairly straightforward with sharp white minute markers at the perimeter of the blue minute ring, and oversized lume filled hour markers set against the Caliber 02...
Hodinkee
Introducing: IWC Unveils The First Fully Luminous Ceramic Concept Watch
A Ceralume Pilot's Chronograph made its debut on Lewis Hamilton's wrist at the Monaco Grand Prix.
SJX Watches
IWC Unveils Experimental Luminous Ceramic Case
IWC just revealed an experimental Pilot’s chronograph with a luminous ceramic case – on the wrist of Formula 1 champion Lewis Hamilton at the Monaco Grand Prix. Christened Ceralume, the material was developed XPL, the watchmaker’s experimental engineering department. According to IWC, the Ceralume concept watch was glowing a bright blue for more than 24 hours in dark chamber tests (although it didn’t state how the material was “charged” prior to the test). According to IWC, the patent-pending material is created by blending ceramic powder with Super-Luminova, the luminous material produced by RC Tritec that absorbs light energy and then emits it. Being non-radioactive, Super-Luminova is widely used to illuminate watch dials, and also suited to a case material. Though IWC has not revealed specifics about future plans for the material, it did say Ceralume will “form the foundation of future developments and releases.” Lewis Hamilton at the 2024 Formula 1 Monaco Grand Prix Initial thoughts Ever since the discovery of radium in 1898, luminous materials have become commonplace in watches, primarily to aid legibility. With legibility being less crucial today, luminous paint is increasingly used for purely aesthetic purposes. Moreover, luminous ceramic is not actually new. Tudor, for instance, used luminous ceramic hour markers in the Black Bay Pro of 2022. IWC is the first to make an entire case from the material, albeit not one that is available commercially (ye...
Time+Tide
Travel in style with the jetsetting echo/neutra Cortina 1956 Chrono GMT
With the Cortina 1956 Chrono GMT, the striking visuals of the lineup have been retained with the addition of chronograph and GMT functions.The post Travel in style with the jetsetting echo/neutra Cortina 1956 Chrono GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.