Hodinkee
Introducing: Richard Mille's Manual Winding Tourbillon 17-02 Goes Titanium
A case swap from ceramic to titanium gives the new release a more classic "throwback" Richard Mille vibe.
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Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Hamilton Adds White Dial and Bracelet to Khaki Field Murph 38 mm
Originally conceived as a prop for the sci-fi film Interstellar, the Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38 mm is now available with a white dial or a stainless steel bracelet. This expands the Khaki Field Murph line two beyond the 42 mm original and the first 38 mm model that was only available with a black dial on a strap. The scaled-down Murph retains the same design as the original, which played a key role in the film directed by Christopher Nolan, which starred Jessica Chastain as Murph, a scientist working to save the Earth. Initial thoughts The Murph was a hit when it went from screen to store in 2019. It had a clean, vintage-military aesthetic with cathedral hands and no date, along with an affordable price tag. Now the white dial arguably gives it a more dynamic look than before, with the white adding contrast and also setting it apart from the numerous other military-inspired watches. Though the design isn’t novel, the Murph 38 mm is appealing for being simple and affordable. Starting at US$895 on a strap, the Murph 38 mm sits in between comparable watches from its sister brands Tissot and Longines, and is also in between in terms of fit and finish. In other words, it is priced right. Vintage-inspired aesthetics Water-resistant to 100 m, the Murph’s stainless steel case is a compact 38 mm in diameter, though tall at 11.1 mm high. The case is mainly brushed, except for the mirror-polished bezel. The optional steel bracelet has a matching brushed finish. And like most m...
Worn & Wound
Zenith and Hodinkee Team Up for their Third Limited Edition
Earlier this year, Zenith revealed a revived version of a classic part of their past in the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar. The triple calendar, with apertures for day and month alongside the 9:00 and 3:00 subdials, is an old fashioned complication with a ton of charm, and works particularly well in a heritage inspired watch like the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar. When it was launched several months ago, it was clear to everyone that it would eventually produce additional variants, and here, for the first time, it’s the canvas for a limited edition, Zenith’s third with Hodinkee. The new Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Limited Edition for Hodinkee reframes the concept of the watch and the result is quite handsome and a nice extension of their previous collaborations. The idea behind this limited edition, according to Hodinkee and Zenith, is to bring together elements of the past, present, and future. This, of course, is something all mechanical watches do in their own way, with their centuries old technology, modern manufacturing techniques, and the hope that any watch will provide multiple generations with reliable service. This LE’s approach is both fanciful and literal. For example, it’s powered by a movement that can only be described as advanced and modern. The Caliber 3610 is a high frequency movement with a chronograph capable of timing events to the 1/10th of a second. But it’s also a bit anachronistic, with a calendar complication...
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Inside Sellita And Albishorn With Sébastien Chaulmontet
The movement maker's Director of Innovation and Marketing discusses collecting chronographs, Sellita, and what the Swiss watch industry can do better.
Hodinkee
Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Limited Edition for Hodinkee
The Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar LImited Edition For Hodinkee honors the legacy of the El Primero and the incredible accuracy of the Chronomaster Original. A limited run of 200 pieces has been produced worldwide.
Quill & Pad
Equipo Navazos No 85: A Surprisingly Different Sherry
Regular readers will be aware that Ken Gargett is a great fan of quality sherry. For some, the mere mention of Sherry will bring a thrill; for others, rolling of the eyes and shaking of the head. It really is a love it or hate it style. And this one is something seriously different.
SJX Watches
Hublot Returns to Mineral Stone Dials with Classic Fusion Elements II
Two years ago Hublot introduced mineral stone dials for the first time and now the brand has returned to Earth’s rare natural stones – and one from elsewhere in the galaxy – with the Classic Fusion Elements II. As with the first edition, the Elements II is a limited edition for Singapore retailer The Hour Glass made up of five different models, each sporting a dial of mineral stone: pink jasper, sodalite, nephrite jade, turquoise, and lunar meteorite. The Elements II is based on Hublot’s signature time-only watch, a minimalist design with the trademark porthole-shaped bezel and case. With just three hands and no date, plus the Hublot logo in gold-powder print, the dial is a blank slate that allows the grain of each mineral stone to stand out. Turquoise Initial thoughts Hublot does two things well, the minimalist, classic Hublot, and artist collaborations, particularly the recent Daniel Arsham and earlier Takashi Murakami. The Elements II is essentially a classic Hublot with a mineral stone dial free of any markings save for the brand logo in gilt print. The clean aesthetic of the dial is maximised to show off the natural graining of various mineral stones. The case is unusual for being entirely in polished titanium, and also two-tone thanks to 18k gold accents, but it’s a perfect complement to the colours of the mineral stone dials. Lunar meteorite This might seem surprising given the clean styling of the watch, but the stone dials would have arguably been even ...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon
Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) debuts the revamped Duometre line earlier this year, including the Duometre Chronograph Moon (and the entry-level Quantieme Lunaire). The watch incorporates almost every possible complication, some clever and others barely related, to create a chronograph that incudes a host of other simple functions, ranging from a day-night indicator to twin power reserves. Traditionally, the Duometre was centred on the chronograph, which makes this the line’s flagship model. It’s essentially an evolution of the first-generation model, retaining a chronograph mechanism that is compact and clever, but gains additional complications that feel extraneous. The platinum model gets a copper or “salmon” dial Initial thoughts The Duometre Chronograph Moon reflects many of JLC’s strengths, particularly as a movement maker. The movement inside is the sophisticated cal. 391 that makes logical use of the two-train construction to power a smartly designed chronograph mechanism. Visually, the movement is appealing and boasts quality, workmanlike finishing with details like a free-sprung balance and grande sonnerie-style winding clicks. Although it is industrial haute horlogerie, the calibre is clearly best in class. The cal. 391 Both barrels each sport grande sonnerie-style winding clicks But the cal. 391 is nearly identical to the cal. 380 found in the first-generation Duometre introduced in 2007. While it is an accomplished movement, the cal. 391 is hardly novel. Ins...
Worn & Wound
It’s Cocktail Time Again: Seiko Introduces Two New Limited Editions in their Long Running Series of Cocktail Inspired Watches
There are a handful of constants in the watch world that are truly worth celebrating: the annual crush of people on Geneva each spring for Watches & Wonders, the annual debate over whether a “summer watch” is a thing, and that first comment on any IG post that begs a watch to be a millimeter or two smaller. Like clockwork (pardon the pun) you can count on these things, year in and year out, and there’s comfort in that. Another reliable watch industry trope comes to us on a regular basis from Seiko in the form of the Cocktail Time limited edition, a tradition that began with a watch that is a true enthusiast icon, and now stands as a running series of just plain good dress watches that Seiko is somehow able to keep at a remarkably affordable price point. The legend of the Cocktail Time really begins in earnest with the SARB065, a Japanese domestic market release that caught on with collectors in an earlier era of watch enthusiasm (the early 2010s) when message boards ruled the day. This particular watch is one that I can remember owning years ago and also being among the chorus of internet commenters recommending it to new enthusiasts when the inevitable question of “what dress watch under $XXX should I buy?” would come up. The new Cocktail Time watches, references SRPK93 and SRE015, are said to be inspired by the city of Tokyo at night, and the “Night-time Tokyo” cocktail created by STAR BAR owner Hisashi Kishi. Kishi is a celebrated creator of craft cockta...
Teddy Baldassarre
Lorca Model 2 Chronograph Review
Sophomore releases are always tricky business. Just ask Depeche Mode, or Kiss. An innovative or evocative debut sound before the artist has really had a chance to flesh out their own voice can lead to unrealistic expectations from fans. Small, independent watch brands face a similar challenge, often expressing an exciting vision for a single watch without a firm framework to expand upon. This isn’t always the case, however, and just like Pearl Jam or The Strokes, there are some emerging watch brands with freshman success that manage an equally compelling follow-up vision. This is exactly what New York-based Lorca, founded by Swiss-Canadian Jesse Marchant, is looking to do with its new Model 2 Chronograph, hot on the heels of their popular initial release, the Model 1 GMT. The visionary behind the brand, Jesse Marchant, is also a recording artist, and is no stranger to the process. The Model 1 GMT was a revelation when it was first revealed in early 2023. The design was subtle, and the execution well considered. All the little details worked, and it was a watch that managed to find its own style and identity in a sea of watches that had neither. The Model 1 didn’t break any new ground mechanically, but it did present a unique vision that touched on multiple genre points in a cohesive manner. It also featured a somewhat polarizing bezel that would ultimately add to the depth of its character. Beyond that, the bracelet, case, and overall fit and finish of the watch unders...
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. Unveils Streamliner Chronograph in Red for Cortina
In celebration of its partnership with its retailer in Southeast Asia, H. Moser & Cie. has created the 20-piece Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Cortina Watch. Based on its signature sports chronograph, right down to the “lobster” bracelet, the Cortina edition gets a striking red fumé dial with an “invisible” Moser logo. Initial thoughts Though the Streamliner is one of Moser’s strongest sellers, the brand hasn’t done that many limited editions of the Streamliner chronograph, so it’s not a theme that’s been overdone. As a result, the Cortina edition stands out as one of the few iterations of the model. And it also stands out in tangible terms: the red dial sets this apart from past Streamliner Chronographs that were all dressed in darker colours. At the same time, the smoked red dial is different from the usual dark blue or grey that’s the norm for integrated-bracelet sports watches. More generally, collaborative timepieces are often marked with various logos, front and back, in an unambiguous illustration of the collaboration. In case of the Cortina edition, however, subtlety wins the day. The retailer’s logo has been omitted, and even the Moser logo is barely visible on the dial. The timepiece speaks for itself, rather than the collaboration, which is a good thing. Priced at 83,000 Singapore dollars (or about US$64,000), the Streamliner Cortina edition costs about 8% more than the regular production in local currency terms (which include taxes). Given...
Fratello
Fratello On Air: In-Depth Watch Research And Myth Busting
We’re back with another episode of Fratello On Air! We apologize for missing last week, but travel and visitors got in the way. This week, we’re discussing watch research, the time it takes, and the self-satisfaction obtained when uncovering a new fact. It’s another nerdy episode, but recording was a lot of fun. For our […] Visit Fratello On Air: In-Depth Watch Research And Myth Busting to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Angelus U41 Orange: a (relatively) Affordable (for a tourbillon) Tourbillon Sports Watch
The Angelus U41 Orange has an aesthetic that is more Richard Mille than Das Boot. At a launch price of $34,400, the notion of a tourbillon that can be enjoyed without care is compelling, and Angelus leans into it.
Fratello
Introducing: Three New Seiko Astron GPS Solar Watches - SSJ023, SSJ025, And SSJ026
The Seiko Astron GPS Solar with an easy-wearing tonneau case design debuted in the spring of 2022. This series started with four models housing Seiko’s 5X53 dual-time movement, and after that, several models followed, including ones with the chronograph caliber 5X83. Now three new, simpler references assume their places in the core collection. The dark […] Visit Introducing: Three New Seiko Astron GPS Solar Watches - SSJ023, SSJ025, And SSJ026 to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
New Release: Czapek Antarctique S Mirrored in Platinum for Sincere Fine Watch’s 70th Anniversary
The 38-piece limited edition Antarctique S in Platinum is Czapek’s first watch featuring both a mirrored finish silicon wafer dial and bimetallic case and bracelet.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Parmigiani Toric Petite Seconde
Having gone all in with the Tonda PF sports watch in the last couple of years, Parmigiani Fleurier recently revived its classic dress watch with the Toric Petite Seconde. Named after the model that launched the brand in 1996, the Toric Petite Seconde is a simple, three-hand watch. Despite its simplicity, the new Toric is expensively executed – the dial and hands are solid 18k gold, as are the bridges and base plate of the PF780 movement, a newly-developed manual-wind calibre. Style wise, the Toric takes after the earlier generation of the model and retains the signature knurled bezel, but presented in a minimalist manner with a wide, clean dial reminiscent of the Tonda PF. The platinum with a “grey celadon” dial (Editor’s note: The watches pictured are pre-production prototypes and consequently have imperfections in detail and finishing, including on the dial.) Initial thoughts Parmigiani accurately describes the Toric design as minimalist and the PF780 movement as modernist. And as expected of Parmigiani, the quality is excellent, inside and out. The Toric is dress watch but feels large at almost 41 mm in diameter, but the case stays thin at under 9 mm. Even though the Toric is obviously a dress watch, it almost also feels like a casual everyday watch because of the size, dial colours, and stock straps. I assume more formal dial colours like black in the pipeline; they would give this a decidedly different look. The case has the trademark knurled bezel, but is oth...
Worn & Wound
An Out of This World Hamilton, Collection Protection, Elegant EDC, and Lasering in on a Great Deal
The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. The post An Out of This World Hamilton, Collection Protection, Elegant EDC, and Lasering in on a Great Deal appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Quill & Pad
Hong Kong Watch Watch Design Competition Winners: Unleashing Young Designers!
Each year, the Hong Kong Trade and Development Council, the Federation of Hong Kong Watch Trades and Industries, and the Hong Kong Watch Manufacturers Association Ltd organize a make-to-sell award in two categories. Marton Radkai reveals the winners.
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: MB&F; Legacy Machine 101 2021 Edition
Once upon a time, there was a watch enthusiast (GaryG) who admired the work of Max Büsser and his watchmaking enterprise MB&F; and who dearly wanted to own one of his watches. But which one? Well, it took years, but Gary eventually decided on the eye-catching 2021 LM101 in white gold and here he explains why.
Monochrome
Buying Guide – Curing Gold Fever With Five Heavyweight Luxury Sports Watches
If there’s one thing to be said about luxury sports watches, is that if done right they will stay on your wrist for a very long time. The undeniable appeal of such watches comes down to the shaped cases, integrated bracelets and often textured dials. Mostly crafted from robust stainless steel, there are those that […]
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: Grönefeld 1941 Remontoire
There are some watches you fall for the moment you see them. Sometimes that initial infatuation passes and you move on to the next temporary obsession, but then there are those instances in which the more you see, talk about, and learn about a piece and its origins the more you resolve to save up to buy one. For GaryG, the Grönefeld 1941 Remontoire was one of the latter.
Quill & Pad
Lang & Heyne Friedrich III Reviewed by Tim Mosso
Most watches feature some deliberate degree of decoration. On the other hand, there is architecture, but very few watches elevate architecture to the level of decoration. The Lang & Heyne Friedrich III stands among that elite.
Deployant
New: Gerald Charles Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30° Anniversario 916
In the world of luxury watches, collaborations between watchmakers and automotive brands are not uncommon, offering enthusiasts a tangible connection to the adrenaline-pumping world of motorsports. The Gerald Charles Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30° Anniversario 916 is a prime example of this synergy, celebrating the 30th anniversary of the iconic Ducati 916 superbike-a machine that has left an indelible mark on the motorcycle racing world.
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Classic Valjoux 72-Powered Watches - Featuring Rolex, Enicar, Breitling, And More
Another Friday, another list! This week, we continue our exploration of legendary movements. For this list, we have selected five classics with the famous Valjoux 72. As you will see, this chronograph caliber powered some of the most legendary watches that horology fans love. That’s why creating a list of the five standout Valjoux 72-powered […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Classic Valjoux 72-Powered Watches - Featuring Rolex, Enicar, Breitling, And More to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
REVIEW: Hands-On With Baume & Mercier Riviera 10770
The Riviera 10770: Baume & Mercier’s Perfect Balance of Form and Function is now met with a brilliant emerald-green dial! What We Love: Exceptional dial design The movement offers a 5-day power reserve A smaller and slimmer case makes it more versatile. What We Don’t: The bracelet design is too plain for Riviera’s case finishing and dial design Lack of micro-adjustment on bracelet. Lack of colour options for secondary strap options (to colour match with the dial) Overall Rating: 8.95/10 Value for Money: 9.3/10 Wearability: 8.75/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.75/10 Founded in 1830, Baume & Mercier, as a watchmaker, has long been known to have a deep-rooted passion for horology, reflected through their timepeices that show elegance and precision. Brothers Louis-Victor and Célestin Baume founded Baume & Mercier, and the brand quickly found itself on the international stage with a reputation for creating watches of exceptional quality, earning them numerous awards for precision at international exhibitions. In 1918, Baume & Mercier further solidified its “luxury image” by bringing in Paul Mercier as a partner. Paul Mercier brought a modern vision to the brand, leaning more towards aesthetic innovation while still upholding the brand’s technical excellence. This philosophy of Paul Mercier laid the groundwork for future Baume & Mercier collections! View this post on Instagram A post shared by Baume & Mercier (@baumeetmercier) All-new Baume & Mercier Riviera 10...
SJX Watches
Indie-Focused IAMWATCH Registration and Programme
Announced a month ago, IAMWATCH is a three-day event centred on independent watchmaking that encompasses lectures, classes, and panel discussions. Taking place in Singapore from October 18 to 20 at the Edition hotel, Iamwatch has just revealed its programme for the event, which promises three full days – from breakfast to sundown drinks – of watches, watchmakers, and watch industry personalities. Entry is free but registration online is required. Boldface names attending the event include independent watchmakers Felix Baumgartner, Konstantin Chaykin, Kari Voutilainen, and Rexhep Rexhepi; watch entrepreneurs Jean-Claude Biver, Manuel Emch, Maximilian Büsser, and Jean Arnault; and auctioneers Aurel Bacs and Sam Hines. Konstantin Chaykin, Felix Baumgartner, and Rexhep Rexhepi Each day begins with a breakfast hosted by industrial notables, including Maximilian Büsser on October 19. The breakfast is followed by a full schedule, including daily lectures about history and horology by historian David Rooney, author of About Time, a history of timekeeping. Jean Arnault, Aurel Bacs, and Manuel Emch Afternoons include classes on various topics, including Jean-Claude Biver on being a watchmaking entrepreneur – a pitch perfect match of speaker and subject if there ever was one. Panel discussions take place daily as well, including one dedicated to independent watchmaking on the final day, October 20, moderated by myself with Felix Baumgartner, Kari Voutilainen, Rexhep Rexhepi ...
Deployant
New: Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series Urushi Lacquer Dial Model
Seiko releases a new model on the Presage line with a urushi lacquer dial by Isshu Tamura, with subdued gold elements and GMT.
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer’s Latest Monaco in Racing Green
Having become something of a tradition, TAG Heuer debuts a new Monaco chronograph just in time for the Formula 1 Singapore Grand Prix. Following last year’s edition in shades of grey, the 2024 edition is the Monaco Chronograph Racing Green. Equipped with the Sellita-derived Calibre 11, the new Monaco features chronograph registers in a dark green synonymous with motorsport, set against a clean silver dial. Initial thoughts Arguably TAG Heuer’s iconic chronograph, especially after Steve McQueen wore one in Le Mans, the Monaco gets new livery that embodies its racing heritage. The tricolour dial in green, silver, and yellow is dressed in classic motorsports colours. The titanium case is also a nice touch, instead of conventional steel. However, this Monaco is powered by the Sellita-derived and modular Calibre 11, instead of the in-house Heuer 02 that was found in last year’s equivalent Formula 1 edition. The rationale for the Calibre 11 is a logical one: it allows for an unorthodox nine o’clock crown that replicates the layout of the vintage Monaco, whereas the in-house calibre necessitates a conventional three o’clock position. But the new Monaco still costs CHF9,100, which is less than the models with the Heuer 02 but not that much less. As a result, it’s not as good a value proposition as its counterparts with the in-house calibre, though it is an appealing execution in terms of colours and materials. An old-school design The familiar square Monaco case is in...
Fratello
Introducing: Two Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Star Bar Limited Editions And A Lacquer-Dialed GMT
You can find inspiration in tradition and at the bottom of your glass. Seiko found it in both places. The SPB447 is a watch in the Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series that presents itself with a glossy urushi (lacquer) dial and a GMT function displaying two time zones. Seiko also presents two new Presage Cocktail Time […] Visit Introducing: Two Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Star Bar Limited Editions And A Lacquer-Dialed GMT to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
G-SHOCK Introduces New References with 10 Year Batteries
With the release of G-SHOCK’s latest references, you can tell that the brand is in it for the long haul. Ten years, to be exact. Yes, you read that right – G-SHOCK is promising a ten-year battery life on their latest GA-010 and GD-010 watch series. I mean, maybe we should be getting through this election cycle before we start thinking too far into the future, but if the Jetsons and those Treehouse of Horror episodes of The Simpsons indicate anything, there’s a promise of flying cars, teleporting devices, and sassy robots with a Brooklyn accent to look forward to. And, right by my side will be my old pal, my G-SHOCK. Utilizing the standard faceted case design, both collections – and all six references total – take the best of G-SHOCK technology to build a watch that is shock absorbing, extra rugged, and water resistant up to 200 meters. Between the GA-010 and GD-010 models, you’ll see that each watch offers something different. For the GD-010, you’ll find an LCD display featuring many of the standard digital features for G-SHOCK, like world time, stop watch, and an auto-calendar. The GA-010 ups the ante with a combination of both analog and digital components. Tonally speaking, these watches do a great job of being subdued without being boring. Colors among the references range from black, orange, and green (for the GD-010) to taupe, blue, and black (GA-010). This is a great design choice, considering you’ll want something that will still be in style for yea...