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Time+Tide
Hot on the heels of the Solargraph's success, TAG Heuer expands the collection with a new size.The post TAG Heuer’s new 34mm Solargraph is proof of solar supremacy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
For years we’ve been calling for watch brands in every category to embrace color, and to give us more than the standard array of white/black/blue when it comes to dial variants. And for the most part, we’ve reached a point where most watchmakers are providing consumers with a healthy choice of dial variants beyond the standard. A new release from Maurice Lacroix, however, has me wondering if case color is the next frontier. The new Aikon PVD collection, a small series of just two watches, has the brand’s popular contemporary sports watch getting a PVD coating. One in gunmetal gray (admittedly, not super uncommon) and the other in a metallic shade of dark blue. The Aikon so often spoken about as a far less expensive alternative to the Royal Oak that it’s hard not to think of AP’s Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in blue ceramic when considering the blue PVD Aikon. Obviously there are enormous differences. The aforementioned Royal Oak QP is, by all accounts, one of the most sought after watches in the world, full stop. The Aikon has a cult following, but it’s nowhere near the cultural touchstone of the Royal Oak. And the AP is complicated, and the Maurice Lacroix is time only. But still, from across the room (way, way across the room) the Aikon can play tricks on you – it has a similar silhouette and is a watch in a similar style as the Royal Oak, and now you can have one in blue, if you’d like. The blue PVD version of the Aikon measures 39mm in diameter, whi...
Deployant
Hermès extends their Arceau collection with a moonphase - the Petite Lune ciel étoilé, so named after the starry skies over Paris.
SJX Watches
Hublot’s flagship launch at LVMH Watch Week 2024 is the MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System, an enormous and outlandishly complicated wristwatch that takes a novel approach to each of its key functions: telling the time, winding, and regulation. The time is indicated by rolling cylinders, while the movement is regulated by an inclined flying tourbillon, and the mainsprings wound by a novel mechanism that relies on the linear motion of twin sliding weights. All the mechanical intricacy is visible under a panoramic, wraparound sapphire crystal curved on three different planes. Initial Thoughts Although Hublot is best known for its simpler models like the Classic Fusion, and sometimes gets flak for the basic movements used in those watches, the brand has long specialises in intricately-mechanical complications, most notably the MP-05 LaFerrari with a movement shaped like an automobile engine and the MP-07 with a 40-day power reserve. The MP-10 continues the series in the same oversized, hyper-modern format. The movement combines several unusual complications that have been found elsewhere, but never altogether. These include the cylindrical time display and inclined tourbillon, but more notably the linear winding mechanism. This is probably the most dynamic complication in the watch, since the twin weights on each side of the case will slide up and down with the motion of the wrist. Winding a movement with sliding weights has been tried several times in the past, includin...
Fratello
Building a compact collection that ticks all the boxes is a recurring challenge in the world of watches. And whether it’s hypothetically whittling down or building a dream draft of watches, it can be a lot of fun. Today, we kick off a series in which members of the Fratello editorial team hack through their […] Visit Fratello Editors Share Their Five-Watch Collections: Nacho’s Picks From Omega, Breitling, Panerai, And Cartier to read the full article.
SJX Watches
With Daniel Roth’s revival having become official last year, the brand has just taken the covers off the prototype of the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription at LVMH Watch Week 2024. Retaining the style and dimensions of its 1990s inspiration, the Tourbillon Souscription is, however, an entirely new creation in mechanical terms, with the DR001 movement inside having been developed specifically for it by Geneva complications specialist La Fabrique du Temps (LFT). Initial thoughts The prototype of the Tourbillon Souscription arrives with subtle refinements compared to the images released last year. The aesthetics largely replicate the design of the 1990s originals, which was the brand’s goal from the beginning, at least for this opening act in its revival. Where the Tourbillon Souscription does better than the original is in the execution and mechanics. The guilloche dial is evidently top quality and also on a solid-gold base. More notably, the recessed area around the tourbillon, which is the actually the base plate, is finished with Côtes de Genève. On the originals this area was unfinished except for a rudimentary micro-blasting. But the calibre within is a more substantive achievement. The DR001 movement was conceived for this watch (though perhaps borrowing elements from LFT’s existing constructions) with aesthetics and traditional detailing in mind, explaining elements like the black-polished steel cock and linear winding click. In contrast, the originals relie...
Revolution
Chronopassion – Revolution Top Retailers 2024 Chronopassion is a single-boutique retailer based in Paris that was established more than 36 years ago by the famed Laurent Piciotto, has gained recognition and admiration in the luxury watch industry. Despite its small size, it has been placed on the same pedestal as industry giants. The retailer is […]
Revolution
Chronopassion – Revolution Top Retailers 2024 Chronopassion is a single-boutique retailer based in Paris that was established more than 36 years ago by the famed Laurent Piciotto, has gained recognition and admiration in the luxury watch industry. Despite its small size, it has been placed on the same pedestal as industry giants. The retailer is […]
Revolution
Chronopassion – Revolution Top Retailers 2024 Chronopassion is a single-boutique retailer based in Paris that was established more than 36 years ago by the famed Laurent Piciotto, has gained recognition and admiration in the luxury watch industry. Despite its small size, it has been placed on the same pedestal as industry giants. The retailer is […]
Hodinkee
Oh, and the Steel and Tuscan Copper model goes global.
Hodinkee
A watch that's fit for the club.
Fratello
Welcome to this special episode of Fratello Talks for LVMH Watch Week 2024! You join Nacho, Timo, and RJ, who run through the list of releases from Bvlgari, TAG Heuer, Hublot, and Zenith. It may still be early in the year, but we’ve already seen a ton of new watches. These brands have also given […] Visit Fratello Talks: LVMH Watch Week 2024 Special to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
The 23 vintage LIP watches in this article are not for sale: they were made for friends and are based on wristwatches from the late 40s and early 50s from the LIP brand. Thomas Brechtel shares this story of passion.
Fratello
One of the many things I love about a good watch is its permanence. A properly built watch, well maintained, will not expire. This has been the case for decades now, but it is particularly evident these days through its contrast with our quick-consumption habits. However, although watches have long been made to last, some […] Visit Watch Design And Manufacturing - Things That Have Improved And Things That Haven’t to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
A close look at Artem Sailcloth Straps and the company's “Loopless” system. How exactly do these work once they're broken in?
Fratello
Welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown! This week, we have RJ and Thomas facing off. And this time, we have a battle of water-resistant chronographs with vintage vibes. In RJ’s corner, we find the Tudor Black Bay Chrono, while Thomas is defending the Zodiac Sea-Chron. There’s certainly no lack of wrist presence this week, Fratelli! […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Zodiac Sea-Chron Vs. Tudor Black Bay Chrono to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
November 2018 marked a personal horological high point for GaryG as he took delivery of an “unobtainable” watch, the Patek Philippe Reference 3940P-027. Gary shares his reasons for buying this rare timepiece with us here.
Quill & Pad
When the De Bethune DB28 Tourbillon Deadbeat Seconds launched in 2012 it represented the upper echelon of the catalog and could be considered something approaching a brand flagship. And in Tim Mosso’s opinion, it certainly has the presence of a flagship.
Time+Tide
Pietro brings you a trio of movie stars, a rare stone dial, and a stealthy new Nomos.The post New releases from Bremont, Hermès, H. Moser & Cie and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
To welcome the Year of Dragon, leading Swiss watchmaker Breitling proudly presents a limited edition timepiece of only 88 pieces-the Chronomat B01 42 Year of Dragon-a perfect combination of Chinese culture and Swiss watchmaking heritage. Available exclusively at Breitling boutiques in Hong Kong, Macau, Taiwan, and South East Asia. Press release with commentary in italics.Read More
Time+Tide
In the next installment of In The Metal, Marcus takes you further behind the scenes.The post Marcus talks ceramic IWCs, and how to shoot watches with Lego and sand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Most will agree that re-painting a dial is a big no-no. Vintage pieces with re-painted dials can be had for a steal as they are difficult to shift and mostly unwanted. But not all dial restorations are created equal, and we do encounter varying degrees of “upgrades.” Some of these upgrades are purposeful deception, while others are not. Here is what one watchmaker feels about the subject.
Time+Tide
Tom's trend manifesto touches on some topics you might expect (waitlists, anyone?), but also others that irk him in particular.The post 5 annoying watch trends that should disappear for 2024 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
One of the most striking – no pun intended – timepieces created by Vacheron Constantin in recent memory are Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Ultra-Thin “Thunder God” and “Wind God”. Created for an Japanese-themed art exhibition in 2022, the two form a matched pair of striking watches, each featuring an miniature enamel dial reproducing one half of Wind God and Thunder God, a pair of folding screens so important they are a National Treasure of Japan. Initial thoughts Each year Vacheron Constantin (VC) introduces a sizeable Les Cabinotiers collection, typically several dozen watches in all, made up of one-off timepieces that are either complicated, decorated with artisanal techniques, or both. Last year’s line-up included a handful of ornate tourbillon watches and a diamond-set dragon watch. The “Wind God” and “Thunder God” duo, however, rank amongst the most impressive of the Les Cabinotiers. “Wind God” and “Thunder God” are variants of the regular production VC minute repeater, which is ordinarily a somewhat plain, large watch with a slim profile. The 41 mm case of the repeater, however, makes it ideal as a canvas, particularly for artwork that is large scale in real life, as the Wind God and Thunder God folding screens are. At a distance, both watches appear to be exceedingly plain, but up close each reveals remarkable miniature enamelling on the dial and a finely chased case accented by gemstones on the minute repeater slide. The case engravi...
Time+Tide
Is the MoonSwatch about to become exciting again? Plus be quick to nab our Baltic.The post Swatch teases new Snoopy MoonSwatch + Baltic x T+T pre-order open now! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
In Ken Gargett’s opinion, Billecart-Salmon’s Cuvee Nicolas François is a great champagne, whatever the vintage, but from 2008, it is transcendent. The champagne is of a gleaming appearance, like cut crystal. One sniff and it is obvious we are dealing with something that is wonderfully complex, elegant, still fresh and impeccably balanced.
Deployant
Our Chief Editor was recently featured in an interview by Maruyama Naomi on her Watch Spirits Tokyo YouTube channel. Here is the link to the video.
Monochrome
As was expected, LVMH, the world’s largest luxury goods company, has announced record revenues for 2023. At EUR 86.2 billion, revenues are up 9% while the organic growth was +13%. The progression of revenues was higher in the fourth quarter than in the third quarter with organic growth of 10% versus 9%, despite some uncertainties […]
Fratello
I am so excited that I don’t even know how to start. This particular version of the Gallet Multichron Clamshell was on my wishlist for years. When I think back on how it crossed my path, I find it so amusing, and I still can’t believe it. A few weeks ago, I mentioned that my […] Visit #TBT Finding A Gallet Multichron Clamshell While Buying A Classic Car to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward, the UK-based watch company, has never shied away from a “big umbrella” approach when it comes to making price-accessible timepieces that don’t compromise on style or quality. Their latest C63 Sealander 36 GMT is no exception. Responding to the need for a universally wearable – and affordable – watch, Christopher Ward has released the C63 Sealander 36 GMT, a diminutive cousin to the larger 39mm C63 Sealander GMT. While this may be a condensed version of the Sealander, it’s no less elegant, retaining all of the clean aesthetics of a Christopher Ward watch, such as its finely brushed surfaces and polished chamfers. True to the Sealander’s ‘Go Anywhere, Do Everything’ mantra, the 36 GMT boasts an ultra-legible dial adorned with applied indices, a twin-flags logo, a symmetrical 6 o’clock date, and brushed and polished hands filled with Super-LumiNova®. The GMT hand, featuring a vibrant orange accent, adds a sporty contrast to the White, Black, and Dragonfly Blue dial choices. The C63 Sealander 36 GMT runs on a Sellita SW330-2 GMT movement, which promises an impressive 56-hour power reserve. As a GMT watch, you can set the fourth hand separately to the time zone of your choice. The C63 Sealander 36 GMT is available now via Christopher Ward’s website, for a price starting at £905. Images from this post: The post Christopher Ward Introduces a Slightly Smaller Version of their Popular C63 Sealander GMT appeared first on Worn & Wound.
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