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Results for Windup Watch Fair New York

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Best of 2023: Notable Surprises and Unexpected Developments SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Travel Time Dec 28, 2023

Best of 2023: Notable Surprises and Unexpected Developments

Perhaps the most surprising aspect of the year was how predictable much of it was. We saw more sports watches with integrated bracelets and more time-only watches with ostensibly artisanal decoration. Paradoxically, most of the notable surprises came from establishment marques that would ordinarily be predictable. Amongst them are the Rolex Perpetual 1908 and Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Travel Time ref. 5224R, both thoughtful creations that are typical for their respective brands. Here are our picks for the year’s best surprises in watchmaking. Brandon Moore Technical Contributor An unexpected, but user-friendly complicated watch that debuted this year is the Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time Ref. 5224R, a simple dual time watch with a twist: both time zones are indicated on a 24-hour dial, eliminating the need for an auxiliary day-night indicator. Not only is the functionality appealing, but the aesthetic and ergonomic execution is done well. While 42 mm may seem large for a Calatrava, the watch is visually smaller thanks to its abundant use of applied markers on the dial and stepped case and lugs. Moreover, and importantly, it is different for Patek Philippe, which is notable since the brand usually errs on the side of the tried and tested. Who would have thought Patek Philippe would remake the Chronometro Gondolo into a wristwatch? Richard Lee Technical Editor I was surprised when I first saw the Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater ref....

Best of 2023: Complications SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Universelle but Dec 26, 2023

Best of 2023: Complications

Twenty twenty-three was a year where familiar complications were reimagined. The year’s standouts in terms of complications are characterised by good execution. Granted, most of of them are evolutionary, except perhaps for the Audemars Piguet Universelle, but a classic complication done well is arguably superior to a novel idea done badly. We asked our team members well versed with the year’s complications for their favourites and here they are. SJX The year’s most complicated and most impressive (multi) complication came from a surprising brand, Audemars Piguet. Even though it was the Royal Oak Travis Scott and Royal Oak Concept “Spider-Man” that captured the headlines, the Code 11:59 Universelle was questionably AP’s most important watch of the year from a watchmaking perspective. The Universelle manages to pack almost two dozen complications, including a grande sonnerie, perpetual calendar, split-seconds chronograph, and notably, automatic winding, into a case that’s just 42 mm wide and 15.55 mm high – a positively slender case by the standards of grand complications. By comparison, the F.P. Journe Astronomic is 44 mm by 13.7 mm, while the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime measures 47.7 mm by 16.07 mm. AP managed to do that with sophisticated and ingenious engineering, most notably by integrating the split-seconds mechanism into the automatic winding hub. The clever technical solutions are also evident in the calendar, which has an extra-thin construction...

Opinion: Giving the Gift of Watches Worn & Wound
Dec 22, 2023

Opinion: Giving the Gift of Watches

Deck the halls with straps and spring bars! Well… maybe. ‘Tis the season for giving and you may be wondering if you should gift a special someone their first timepiece. It just so happens that gifted watches can be surprisingly controversial. It doesn’t seem that a token of affection for someone in your life, especially around the holidays, would be complicated. Yet, type “watches as gifts” in your favorite search engine, and you’re sure to see long lists of debates on this topic. The rationale ranges from cultural superstition to practical concerns about preferred tastes and styles. It’s certainly worth considering your position on these perspectives before parting with one of your own watches or diving into a purchase on behalf of a loved one. However, I’m here to provide some personal insight into this conversation and perhaps convince you to take a chance on the prospective horologist in your life this season. My collecting journey began just over two years ago when I received a hand-me-down watch from a friend. I was, then, a graduate student unaware of the watchbox-free counter space I was taking for granted. I hadn’t critically considered watches before, but knew I was drawn to material “stuff.” My apartment was filled with hundreds of books I’d accumulated over the years along with MOLLE-paneled backpacks, knives, sports equipment, and various trinkets I had used (or might one day use) in my adventures. I gravitated toward things I knew were...

The Collector's Corner - The TAG Heuer Monza Calibre 36, Youngtimer Appeal and El Primero Power Monochrome
TAG Heuer Monza Calibre 36 Youngtimer Dec 22, 2023

The Collector's Corner - The TAG Heuer Monza Calibre 36, Youngtimer Appeal and El Primero Power

When you hear the name TAG Heuer, which watches come to mind? The Monaco, the Carrera, or perhaps the Autavia? Maybe the Aquaracer? But what about the Monza? The Monza can be considered the dark horse of TAG Heuer’s lineup, occasionally popping up over the years but never having quite the staying power as other, […]

Recapping the Worn & Wound x Carryology Austin Meetup Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s Packs abounded Dec 20, 2023

Recapping the Worn & Wound x Carryology Austin Meetup

Whether it’s watches or packs, these items are seen by enthusiasts as core pieces of kit for daily adventures. Both work best when they’re rugged, versatile, and well-built-and both Worn & Wound and Carryology are dedicated to providing their readers with in-depth reviews and news around the latest in watches and packs. When we discovered that we were fans of each other’s publications-it became immediately clear that partnering in multiple ways would only strengthen each other’s audiences. Last weekend’s meetup in Austin, TX only proved that point more emphatically. Readers from both publications converged on one of the city’s most exciting new distilleries: Fierce Whiskers. This location served as the perfect backdrop for enthusiasts to connect, grab a custom cocktail or two, and show off their watches and packs.   Regardless of whether your primary interest was what’s on your wrist or what’s on your back-it was immediately evident that these enthusiasts were cut from the same cloth. Watches ranged from robust divers like Sinns and Seikos to refined, go anywhere, do anything daily drivers like Rolex Oyster Perpetuals and Grand Seikos. Packs abounded and came in the form of everything from a wide array of Carryology collabs to high-end custom builds. There were also a group of enthusiasts who came with both amazing watches on-wrist, as well wildly cool backpacks and other carry solutions. For them, this event was a mind-melting meld of two of their a...

Wes Lang, Wei Koh and Watches | TCP with Wes Lang (@weslanglovesyou) Part Il Revolution
Dec 15, 2023

Wes Lang, Wei Koh and Watches | TCP with Wes Lang (@weslanglovesyou) Part Il

Continuing our exploration of Wes Lang’s extensive collection, join us for part two of ‘The Collector’s Perspective’ in Los Angeles. Discover more of the renowned contemporary artist’s highly detailed works, collaborations with renowned brands and musicians, and his discerning taste in horological craftsmanship. Don’t miss this exclusive episode showcasing the unique style and artistic vision […]

The Kollokium Projekt 01 Broadens Creative Horizons SJX Watches
Dec 14, 2023

The Kollokium Projekt 01 Broadens Creative Horizons

Positioned as a creative endeavour rather than a traditional brand, Kollokium debuts with a departure from conventional watchmaking norms, the Projekt 01. Born from the aesthetic sensibilities of its founders, Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi, Kollokium is about unconventional design and raw, unpolished aesthetics. Kollokium is a project-based offering, with each “projekt” iterated into variants but produced in limited numbers. Projekt 01 begins as a “Friends & Family” edition only for insiders, but a publicly available version will soon be launched in early 2024. Initial thoughts The Projekt 01 blends avant-garde design with innovative manufacturing processes, and an affordable price tag. And it also doesn’t take itself too seriously, as evidenced by the case back – something that collectors tired of self-important brands will appreciate. The cast steel case delivers an industrial and robust aesthetic, setting it apart from watches in this price segment. On top is a highly-domed “box” sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating that enhances the visual experience. But most intriguing is the three-dimensional pixellated dial made up of with 468 hand-applied cylindrical markers tipped with Super-LumiNova, a surprising degree of craftsmanship given its price. Kollokium’s philosophy is also reflected in the decision to identify the La Joux-Perret G101 movement. Like many watch start-ups, Kollokium is committed to transparency, while being mor...

Patek Philippe 5002 Sky Moon Tourbillon:  The Most Complicated Wristwatch Produced by Patek Philippe - Reprise Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe 5002 Sky Moon Tourbillon Dec 14, 2023

Patek Philippe 5002 Sky Moon Tourbillon:  The Most Complicated Wristwatch Produced by Patek Philippe - Reprise

The Patek Philippe 5002 Sky Moon Tourbillon launched in platinum for the 2001 model year, the 12-complication featured two dials. Dial one was devoted to a moonphase indicator and a perpetual calendar with retrograde date display. On the sub-dial display for months, simple text promised a tourbillon regulator within the case.

Wes Lang, Wei Koh and Watches | TCP with Wes Lang (@weslanglovesyou) Part I Revolution
Dec 14, 2023

Wes Lang, Wei Koh and Watches | TCP with Wes Lang (@weslanglovesyou) Part I

Wes Lang is an American artist known for his distinctive style that combines elements of tattoo art, Americana, and popular culture. He has gained recognition for his intricate and highly detailed works, often featuring iconic symbols, text, and imagery. Lang’s art has been showcased in prestigious galleries and museums across the globe, solidifying his reputation […]

Farer’s Latest is Inspired by the Pullman Company, the Historic UK Train Car Manufacturer Worn & Wound
Casio ns Dec 12, 2023

Farer’s Latest is Inspired by the Pullman Company, the Historic UK Train Car Manufacturer

When it comes to setting the standard for British elegance, does anyone do it better than Farer? The London-based watchmaker, whose timepieces are produced in Switzerland, recently launched their latest in the Cushion Case collection: The Durham Pullman. Evoking a bygone era, this latest from Farer takes inspiration from the Pullman Company, manufacturer of train cars throughout the United Kingdom. With this, the mixture of greens and silver balances a bit of sophistication with everyday wear. The dial is the real selling point of this watch, so we’ll talk about that first. The dial boasts a luxurious dark green hue with a metallic brushed finish, lending it a dynamic tone under varying lights. Atop this base, a raised ring with a radial brushed finish creates the distinctive sector dial effect of the Cushion Case collection. Resting on this ring are highly polished silver markers- a blend of batons and Roman numerals-accompanied by a refined dauphine handset. Complementing these silver elements is the seconds sub-dial, featuring a sunken silver channel with an engine-turned finish. These meticulous details converge to establish the seasonal release of the Durham Pullman as an exceptionally refined timepiece suitable for both formal occasions and weekend outings alike. As part of the Cushion Collection, the Durham Pullman is bound to have presence when worn due to its shape and easy-to-style size that complements a variety of wearers. Sitting at 38.5 mm with a 43.8mm...

Insight: The Breguet Cal. 728 of the Type XX Chronograph SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet cal 4401/4409 Dec 12, 2023

Insight: The Breguet Cal. 728 of the Type XX Chronograph

With roots in 1950s French military-issue chronographs, the modern-day Type XX Chronographe was originally released in the mid-1990s and is now’s trademark pilot’s chronograph – and also the brand’s entry-level complication. Originally utilising Lemania-based movement in prior generations, the Type XX was entirely revamped, inside and out, with the unveiling of the Type XX Chronograph 2057 and 2067 earlier this year. While the aesthetics have been revised, the most notable upgrade in the new-generation Type XX is a brand-new movement, the cal. 728. The cal. 728 is a high-frequency movement running at 36,000 beats per hour that employs a novel patent-pending flying mechanism as well as an inventive reset system. The release of a completely new, in-house chronograph movement is uncommon, especially one with novel innovations that went under the radar. In fact, the cal. 728 is arguably one of the most sophisticated and advanced modern-day chronograph movements, putting it alongside the Audemars Piguet cal. 4401/4409 and Rolex cal. 4131. As a result, the cal. 728 deserves a closer look. Controlled return The cal. 728 is actually two related movements: the cal. 728 is an automatic, flyback-chronograph movement with three registers for elapsed seconds, minutes, and hours that is inside the three-counter Type XX ref. 2067, while the cal. 7281 is a two-counter version of the calibre found in the military-inspired Type XX ref. 2057. The most novel component of the cal. 728 ...

Introducing - The Breguet Reine de Naples 8925 Valentine’s Day Edition 2024 Monochrome
Breguet Reine de Naples 8925 Dec 11, 2023

Introducing - The Breguet Reine de Naples 8925 Valentine’s Day Edition 2024

As the leading watchmaker of his day, Abraham-Louis Breguet hobnobbed with France’s royalty and aristocracy. Apart from his commissions for gentlemen, his celebrity client list also included Queen Marie-Antoinette, Empress Josephine, and Caroline Murat, Napoleon Bonaparte’s youngest sister, aka the Queen of Naples. A keen collector of Breguet’s revolutionary timekeepers, in 1810, Caroline Murat placed […]

SJX Podcast Episode 1: A Conversation with Collectors in Dubai SJX Watches
Dec 8, 2023

SJX Podcast Episode 1: A Conversation with Collectors in Dubai

Welcome to the inaugural episode of the SJX Podcast, which will be all about in-depth conversations with people from the heart of the industry, discussing the topics that matter. Our first episode is about collecting: during Dubai Watch Week, we sat down with Adel Al Rahmani, the founder of Dubai Watch Club, and Syed Hamed Hosseini, a collector based in Dubai. Both take extremely different approaches when it comes to their pursuit of watches, and listening to them talk about the reasoning behind each is not only fascinating, but sheds light on collectors’ perspectives. The conversation includes hot topics like what it’s like trying to buy from certain brands when you’re not at the top of the “list” and even the safety of wearing recognisable timepieces in European cities. We hope you enjoy the half hour conversation.  

Review: Christopher Ward’s The Twelve 36MM (and 40MM) Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward s Dec 4, 2023

Review: Christopher Ward’s The Twelve 36MM (and 40MM)

Last month, I had the opportunity to put together a list of the three watches I would choose for a collection if I had a budget of $5,000. Though I stand by my choices, selected through detailed research and great care, I have one small confession to make: none of those watches had ever graced my wrist. Fearing the imaginary cries of “j’accuse!” lest my secret be discovered, I tried on one of the three at a local authorized dealer within the week. This second opportunity was graciously made possible by the editors at Worn & Wound. I’m two for three now, so thus begins a personal journey predetermined by the Horological Fates. For this review, I lived a full day in the life with The Twelve. Two of these were the highly anticipated 36mm reference – one on the classic integrated bracelet, and the other on the rubber strap option. I also sampled the 40mm stainless steel reference on the bracelet in order to properly compare them. My wrist circumference, for reference, is about 5.75 inches. Christopher Ward’s goal in this 36mm launch was greater inclusivity towards women and other smaller-wristed folks, and I’m uniquely situated to consider both sizing options from this perspective. Each watch spent a day (or more) on wrist, so I was able to assess my true feelings towards them after the immediate New Watch Glee wore off. As a newbie reviewer, one helpful piece of advice I received was to pay attention to first impressions, and run with that if it felt right. Whil...

Introducing - The Hanhart Red X Grey & Blue Flyback Chronograph and Dashboard Stopwatch Twin-Set Monochrome
Dec 4, 2023

Introducing - The Hanhart Red X Grey & Blue Flyback Chronograph and Dashboard Stopwatch Twin-Set

Hanhart is famous for its Flieger chronographs, historic pilot watches with a red pusher to prevent pilots from accidentally zeroing the stop time. However, Hanhart is also renowned for its stopwatches. In fact, Johann Hanhart started life in Switzerland in 1882 as a manufacturer of stopwatches before relocating to Germany in 1902, where his son, […]

Introducing - The Retro-Styled Union Glashütte Noramis Chronograph Sport Monochrome
Union Glashütte Dec 4, 2023

Introducing - The Retro-Styled Union Glashütte Noramis Chronograph Sport

German watchmaker Union Glashütte expands its Noramis collection by introducing three chronograph references tailored for aquatic adventures. The Noramis Date Sport (2021) marked the inception of the sporty retro-inspired series, featuring a unidirectionally rotating bezel and boasting 200m water resistance with distinctive gradient dials. Drawing inspiration from the success of this model and existing Noramis […]