Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Summer Releases From Tudor And Longines; Talking Value Propositions From Habring² And M.A.D.1
A summer update and Geneva Watch Days preview as the watch industry heads back to school.
Results for Above the Date Window
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Hodinkee
Quill & Pad
Hautlence HLXX 20th Anniversary Edition: Redefining Time with Retrograde Minutes and Jumping Hours
The Hautlence HLXX 20th Anniversary Edition is a limited edition of 20 pieces commemorating the brand's founding in 2004. The HLXX features a TV-shaped case with jumping hours and retrograde minutes.
Fratello
#TBT A Suspiciously Familiar Pontiac Jumping Chronograph
I liked the Pontiac Jumping Chronograph instantly. I remember spotting Pontiac watches multiple times, but I never had an urge to jump on any. So I took this as an opportunity to also look briefly into this sonorous-sounding brand’s history. It took me some time to realize why the Pontiac Jumping got my attention so […] Visit #TBT A Suspiciously Familiar Pontiac Jumping Chronograph to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Introducing Gagà Laboratorio, a New Independent Watch Brand with Italian Flare
Two prominent industry insiders have recently collaborated to establish a new watch company, Gagà Laboratorio, based in Switzerland. Mo Coppoletta will serve as the Art Director, and Ruben Tomella as the owner of the Italy based Gagà Milano brand and the newly formed company, Gagà Laboratorio. Mr. Tomella has had a successful tenure with Gagà Milano for two decades. He founded brand offshoot Manufacture Gagà in Switzerland, which has focused on creating high-end products for Gagà Milano in collaboration with leading industry partners, including the development of tourbillon movements in partnership with Hysek, a Swiss independent brand. In 2020, Mr. Tomella decided to redirect the activities of the Swiss company and embarked on establishing a new brand, Gagà Laboratorio. The mission of Gagà Laboratorio is to create entry-level luxury timepieces that emphasize design while maintaining high-quality movement standards. To achieve this vision, he partnered with artist Mo Coppoletta, a long-time friend. Together, they have initiated this new chapter for Gagà. Mo Coppoletta is a world-renowned artist, designer, and tattoo artist, known for his collaborations with Bvlgari on two Octo Finissimo limited editions featuring his tattoo artwork. In my interview with Mr. Tomella, he discusses the vision of Gagà Laboratorio. “After 16 years in the watchmaking industry at the helm of Gagà Milano, in 2020, I felt a strong pull towards the world of independent watchmaking and d...
Worn & Wound
How To Travel With Your Watch
We are currently in the peak vacation travel season, and for us watch enthusiasts, thinking about traveling with our watches can be stressful. Do you wear your most expensive watch? Should you bring multiple watches? If you bring numerous watches, do you put them in your carry-on luggage? What do you store them in? What about TSA security at the airport? All these questions can be daunting, and we wouldn’t blame you for leaving your nice watches at home. Our timepieces are meant to be enjoyed, worn, and have memories built into them. What better memories are there than traveling on holiday? We are currently in the peak vacation travel season, and for us watch enthusiasts, thinking about traveling with our watches can be stressful. Do you wear your most expensive watch? Should you bring multiple watches? If you bring numerous watches, do you put them in your carry-on luggage? What do you store them in? What about TSA security at the airport? All these questions can be daunting, and we wouldn’t blame you for leaving your nice watches at home. Our timepieces are meant to be enjoyed, worn, and have memories built into them. What better memories are there than traveling on holiday? The post How To Travel With Your Watch appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition 'Polaris Dawn' – Four Unique Watches That Are Headed To Space
After coming back to earth, the watches will be auctioned by Christie's in New York to benefit St. Jude Children's Research Hospital.
Worn & Wound
Bangalore Watch Company’s Latest is Inspired by Himalayan Rescue Helicopters
As India’s luxury market continues to grow, there has been an opportunity for more domestic-made brands to shine. One such brand is the Bangalore Watch Company. Since 2018, the brand has been making timepieces that are inspired by the rich landscape and heritage of the subcontinent. One such series of watches, MACH 1, has centered on the Indian Air Force. Past iterations have focused on various motifs, from formation aerobatics to aircraft carriers. For their latest launch, Bangalore Watch Company has set their sights to the clouds and high-altitude helicopters. The Himalayas have long captivated the cultural imagination of the world – and especially those in India. With over 1,600 peaks with a towering 6,000 meter presence, the mountain range inspires both fear and awe. It’s incredible, then, to think that some of the top aviators in India use helicopters for reconnaissance and resupply operations in some of the most challenging flying conditions on the planet. Enter the Mach 1 Avalanche, inspired by the harsh beauty of the Himalayan peaks and the danger that is intrinsically tied to the airspace. This is first evident with the “Frostpeak” dial, inspired by freshly fallen snow, which shimmers with a motif de grain that plays with light in varying conditions. The bright red minute hand, coated with Super-Luminova, draws inspiration from airspeed indicators and the vibrant colors of mountain rescue helicopters while the case back is engraved with an image of a hel...
Fratello
Introducing: A Quartet Of New Roger Dubuis Creations, Including A Double And A Central Tourbillon
Do you think there’s a small group of tourbillon collectors out there who operate like Pokémon trainer Ash Ketchum from Pallet Town whose goal is to become a Pokémon Master? His motto is “Gotta catch ’em all,” and if the same goes for self-proclaimed Tourbillon Masters, visiting a Roger Dubuis boutique will help them bag […] Visit Introducing: A Quartet Of New Roger Dubuis Creations, Including A Double And A Central Tourbillon to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Evolution of Social Media Watch Photographs Part 3: Storytelling, Collaboration, and a Bunch of Boobs
While GaryG while he lauds the rise to prominence of many more women among the population of online watch shooters and commentators, the emergence of boob shots with a watch hardly "empowers women" . . . or does it?
SJX Watches
Hands On: Piaget Polo Skeleton Ceramic
In its original form, the Piaget Polo is an all-gold watch emblematic of 1970s style, but the model’s latest incarnation is the opposite. The Polo Skeleton Ceramic has an ultra-thin movement open-worked in a clean, geometric style, presented in brushed black ceramic case. Based on the original in steel, the Polo Skeleton Ceramic is dressed in restrained colours of black, grey, and dark blue, for a minimalist, low-key aesthetic. Initial thoughts The modern Polo has evolved since its original form of 2016, and with the evolution the model has gained its own character. While the original version felt like a typical luxury-sports watch with its patterned blue dial and prominent bezel, the skeleton in ceramic looks original. The matte black ceramic case matches the technical appearance of the movement, though I would have preferred grey or even white Super-Luminova. The blue lume matches the rotor and Piaget’s corporate colour, but it is too unorthodox (and it also glows less brightly). Though finished with the same alternate brushed and polished surfaces as its steel counterpart, the ceramic case feels more refined given the comparative challenge of finishing ceramic to the same degree as steel. The cal. 1200S1 is open worked in a modern style that is typical of many current skeleton movements. All of the bridges have clean lines and surfaces, which complements the case and dial aesthetic. The movement finishing is industrial-haute horlogerie, though I would have employed ...
Deployant
New: Polo Skeleton Ceramic
Piaget, the pioneer of ultra thin movement debuts their first ever ceramic watch at Watches and Wonders Shanghai 2024. The Piaget Polo Skeleton Ceramic. The bold use of new materials is a testament to the Maison’s commitment to watchmaking excellence and innovation.
Worn & Wound
Zenith Introduces their Third Collaboration with Artist Felipe Pantone
Over the past few years, Zenith’s limited edition releases made in collaboration with Felipe Pantone have been a highlight among the deluge of collaborative limited editions that have become so popular as of late. The Zenith x Pantone pieces tend to feel like little pieces of art, which is appropriate when the collaborate is a visual artist. These collaborations also seem to be right at home within the Defy line, a collection that has embraced a flair for color and the avant-garde as long as it has been in existence. The latest release from the pair is perhaps their most ambitious yet, and marks the first time Pantone has had a hand in a watch in the current Defy Skyline collection. The Defy Skyline Tourbillon Felipe Pantone takes what is almost certainly the brand’s most exotic Defy and gives it a blast of the chromatic and optical touches that Pantone is known for. The tourbillon, of course, is the literal centerpiece of the design, and the bridge has been refashioned here as a lightning bolt, a motif found throughout Pantone’s work. Its colorful gradient and metallic finish is reminiscent of the finishing that made the first Pantone collaboration such a standout. While the previous Felipe Pantone collaborations have featured dials that are largely skeletonized, a different approach was taken with the new Defy Skyline Tourbillon. The dial is a large sapphire disc and has been micro-engraved with a pattern of concentric circles. This “moire” effect is anothe...
SJX Watches
MB&F;’s Affordable M.A.D.1 is Now Slimmer and Swiss
Conceived as an affordable sub-brand of MB&F;, M.A.D. Editions has become a runaway success by making an MB&F;-esque design accessible. Now the concept has been further refined with the M.A.D.1S, where the suffix stands for slimmer, Swiss, and single cylinder. The case is thinner by almost 4 mm, and now contains a Swiss-made movement that indicates the time (approximately) on a single cylinder. Initial thoughts The original M.A.D.1 was a fun watch that was affordable but expensive, and extremely thick at almost 19 mm. The slimmed down version has sleeker proportions, and the same price tag, but offers comparatively better value. The M.A.D.1S is priced at CHF2,900, just like the original version. Like the original, the M.A.D.1S is priced well for a watch with a little bit of the MB&F; magic, but expensive for a watch of its build and movement. However, the M.A.D.1S is comparatively less expensive, and conversely offers a bit more value, because it has a slightly more upscale movement inside. Mad but more wearable Two versions of the M.A.D.1S are available, one with a blue dial and the other in purple. The blue is available to the public, while the purple is only for “Friends & Tribe”, namely associates of the brand and owners of MB&F; watches. Both will be sold via an online raffle, as is convention for the M.A.D. watches. Both editions are otherwise identical, with a case that’s substantially slimmer than the original M.A.D.1. While the original was almost 19 mm high, th...
SJX Watches
Auction: F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité Prototype at Phillips
The second wristwatch Francois-Paul Journe ever made and the counterpart to the similar example in the brand’s own museum, the F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité “15/93” was made by Mr Journe in 1993, by hand naturally. It will be offered by Phillips at its 1990s thematic sale in November (that includes the original Rolex Daytona “Rainbow”), accompanied by associated documents. One of three examples his tourbillon prototype, the watch has all of the telltale signs of a hand-made watch. It also serves as the design template that would later shape the signature F.P. Journe Tourbillon. One of the readily apparent details is the fact that the dial is actually the underside of the base plate. The actual dial, namely the guilloche register at three o’clock, is actually secured by screws on the base plate. With an estimate of over CHF2 million, the 1993 F.P. Journe tourbillon be sold at Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999 that takes place on November 8, 2024 in Geneva at the Hotel President.
Deployant
New: Grand Seiko Elegance SBGA499
Grand Seiko releases a new watch in the Grand Seiko Elegance Collection Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGA499.
Quill & Pad
New Release: Czapek Antarctique Polar Sky and Flying Diamonds – Sporty Chic meets Black-Tie Elegance
The Czapek Antarctique collection is the brand sports-watch-on-metal-bracelet range of watches. Now with the Antarctique Polar Sky and Flying Diamonds, the casual sports watch collection is spiced up with a touch of class and these new watches can easily be worn with style in business or formal evening settings.
SJX Watches
IWC Unveils All-Titanium Mark XX Patrouille Suisse
Continuing with its series of editions made for the Swiss Air Force’s aerobatic team, the IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX Patrouille Suisse is a clean, no-frills watch based on IWC’s entry-level pilot’s watch. A limited edition of 250 pieces, the Mark XX Patrouille Suisse is the fifth edition dedicated to the aerobatics team. This has two notable features that set it apart from the regular production Mark XX. First, the case is entirely in matte titanium instead of stainless steel. Secondly, the dial is sunburst-brushed slate grey rather than black or blue. Initial thoughts As one of IWC’s bestsellers, the Mark XX is a modern take on the historical IWC pilot’s watch. It’s relatively affordable and an easily wearable 40 mm. The standard Mark XX sticks to the standard template, so it isn’t that interesting. The Patrouille Suisse edition, on the other hand, is different enough to be interesting, but not so much that it loses the recognisable styling. The lightweight, low-key titanium case is particularly fitting for a pilot’s watch, both in terms of visuals and feel. And the grey dial adds a bit of nuance to an otherwise monochromatic look, though it could have been better without the date. Priced at US$6,500, the Mark XX Patrouille Suisse doesn’t cost too much more than the standard model, which makes it a compelling alternative. Admittedly the cal. 32111 inside is one of IWC’s most economical movements, but it is acceptable for the price. Shades of grey Ent...
Monochrome
Introducing – Four New Blancpain Villeret References with Sunburst Green Dials
The Villeret Collection of Blancpain comprises the brand’s most classic and elegant timepieces. They offer a wide range of functions, from the basic time-only models to more complex complications like the minute repeater, perpetual calendar, dual-time zone, chronograph, and more. Recognizable by their distinctive double-stepped case design, these watches are a testament to aesthetic excellence. […]
Fratello
Fratello On Air: Servicing A Large Watch Collection
In this week’s episode of Fratello On Air, we discuss how we go about servicing our watch collections. It’s another listener suggestion, and it’s a good one! You’ll hear about how and when we choose to service a watch and where. Then, we end the episode with some suggestions about the tools we have on […] Visit Fratello On Air: Servicing A Large Watch Collection to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Orient Bambino 38 Expands with Fresh New Colors and Versatile Steel Bracelet
While Orient's Bambino series has built its reputation as an ultimate bang-for-the-buck final destination for every automatic dress watch wannabe, the new additions to the Bambino 38 collection only further reinforce this claim. In 2022, the company released a baby Bambino in the form of the Bambino 38-a slightly smaller and unisex version of the rather notably famous 40.5mm sibling-still aiming at that smaller customer group wanting something dressier, a bit more versatile, and refined. Now, with three new dial colors and a steel bracelet hitting the market, the Bambino 38 has some serious potential to wow a fresh new audience.
SJX Watches
Citizen’s Affordable Series 8 GMT in Mother-of-Pearl
Having already debuted a thoughtful reissue of a pocket watch for its centenary, Citizen is continuing with the commemorative editions with something more affordable: the Series 8 880 100th Anniversary. Featuring a second time zone function and integrated bracelet, the watch has a tone-tone finish of brushed steel and blue-coated steel, matched with a blue mother-of-pearl dial. Initial thoughts The Series 8 GMT is most notable for being a “true” GMT – with an independently adjustable hour hand – at an affordable price point. It retails for just under US$2,000, and most GMT watches in this price segment have an add-on GMT function of an adjustable 24-hour hand instead. While the standard versions of the Series 8 GMT are in familiar GMT colours, including a blue and red “Pepsi” version, this anniversary edition is unusual with the blue case treatment and sky-blue mother-of-pearl dial. For someone who wants an affordable, functional dual time zone that looks different, this is a competitive proposition. A true-blue GMT The Series 8 GMT has a two-part case construction that allows for the unusual two-tone finish of grey and blue. A central section that’s coated blue slots into the case middle, giving it the twin blue flanks on either side of the bezel. Measuring 41 mm in diameter and 13.5 mm high, the case is entirely steel, with the blue components coated to achieve the blue finish. Like the other Series 8 models, this has alternating brushed and polished fin...
Hodinkee
Announcements: Geneva Watch Days 2024 Starts This Thursday – Stay Tuned!
The latest releases from 50+ brands, including Breitling, Bulgari, MB&F;, Oris, and more.
Monochrome
Introducing – Fabian Pellet And His Breakout Watch, Called Essential
The interest in high-end independent watchmaking has risen to great heights over the past few years, and with it, new and exciting names pop up every now and then. Names that might come fresh from school, or in the case of Fabian Pellet, can rely on over two decades of experience. Presenting his debut piece, […]
Deployant
New: Tissot PRX 40 UFO Robot Grendizer Special Edition
Tissot partners with Japanese robot anime artist Go Nagai to release a collaboration for their best selling PRX 40. Here is the PRX 40 UFO Robot Grendizer.
Fratello
A Red Jaguar E-Type, One-Day Trips To New York On Concorde, And Other Fun Facts About Armin Strom
After talking to Serge Michel and Claude Greisler, the two co-founders of the watch brand Armin Strom, it became apparent that they do things differently at their manufacture in the Swiss watchmaking town of Biel/Bienne. Ask them anything, and the two childhood friends who started a watch brand inspired by the open-worked creations of famous […] Visit A Red Jaguar E-Type, One-Day Trips To New York On Concorde, And Other Fun Facts About Armin Strom to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
What to Look Out for When Buying Vintage Watches
Investing in vintage watches combines a passion for horology with the potential for financial gains. They are coveted items for collectors and enthusiasts, but the decision to invest in vintage watches should be approached with careful consideration.
Quill & Pad
Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan: A Horological Playground of High Precision, Double Tourbillon Performance with a Single Tourbillon
The Greubel Forsey Cadran has a gimbal that rolls the axis of the tourbillon around, ensuring that it will nearly never be in a vertical or horizontal position relative to its axis.
Monochrome
Buying Guide – A Selection Of Sleek And Scratch-Proof Ceramic Watches
Watches come in all sizes, shapes, colours, styles and materials, which is why there’s always something to be found that ticks personal boxes. One of the options in terms of case material, or beyond for that matter, is ceramic. Pioneered by brands like Rado, it has come a long way and can be found in […]
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko SRPE05 “King Turtle” Vs. Certina DS Super PH1000M “Sea Turtle Conservancy”
Welcome to this Sunday Morning Showdown “Summer Edition.” Last week, we put two high-end golden travel timers up against each other. This week, two stainless steel divers from the more affordable side of the watch spectrum will battle it out. Both the Seiko SRPE05 “King Turtle” and the Certina DS Super PH1000M STC (short for […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko SRPE05 “King Turtle” Vs. Certina DS Super PH1000M “Sea Turtle Conservancy” to read the full article.
Deployant
New: OMEGA Seamaster Diver 300m America’s Cup
Introducing the OMEGA Seamaster Diver 300M America's Cup, the brand's latest to commemorate its maritime heritage. This timepiece celebrates OMEGA's role as the Official Timekeeper of the 37th America's Cup with a design that's as functional as it is aesthetic, featuring a regatta countdown bezel and the iconic America's Cup trophy silhouette on the seconds hand.