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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen’s Monaco and What Sotheby’s Catalogues Really Tell You

Steve McQueen’s Le Mans Heuer Monaco 1133B crossed Sotheby’s block. The above-the-date-window detail collectors spotted, the hammer price, why it matters.

Tissot Marks 50th Anniversary of Grendizer SJX Watches
Tissot Marks 50th Anniversary Sep 22, 2025

Tissot Marks 50th Anniversary of Grendizer

Almost exactly a year after launching a special edition of the PRX celebrating the short-lived but much-loved Japanese anime series, Tissot returns with the PRX Grendizer 50th Anniversary Special Edition. Given its niche sensibility, the new addition to the PRX collection will fly under the radar for most watch buyers but should strike a chord with anime fans. Limited to 1,975 pieces, a nod to series’ debut 50 years ago, the watch is mostly standard PRX fare, but with an all-black finish and a lume-embossed dial depicting Grendizer, capped with an 18k gold seconds hand that references the hero’s signature weapon – the Double Harken. The upper section of the dial flange is engraved with the series’ Japanese title, “UFOロボ グレンダイザー” Initial thoughts Close on the heels of the RockWatch, the introduction of another limited edition of the PRX is telling. Tissot has long been the standard-bearer for value-priced watches within the Swatch Group portfolio, but value-oriented pricing can only get you so far; collectors buy watches because they are exciting. And the Grendizer is certainly that, managing to transform the widely appealing but somewhat generic ’70s look of the PRX into something more distinctive. In other words, it’s not trying to look like anything else. The watch itself is the familiar PRX, meaning it has an easy-wearing 40 mm case that’s a hair under 11 mm thick. But here the stainless steel case is coated with a black finish, and t...

Watch Bezels: Every Type Explained Teddy Baldassarre
Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 oval-shaped Sep 22, 2025

Watch Bezels: Every Type Explained

If you’re new to your appreciation of fine watches, you have undoubtedly read a lot of references to and heard a lot of opinions about watches’ bezels. It is somewhat of an esoteric term but it describes something very simple and essential. The bezel is the front part of the case (often but not always ring-shaped) that frames the dial and secures the crystal. Bezels can be made of the same material as the case middle and/or the caseback, but can also be made of a different material. Here we run down the various types of watch bezels you’re likely to encounter. Polygons and Exposed Screws Watch cases, of course, are not uniformly round, which means that bezels, the front-facing parts of those cases, can also be found in a variety of shapes - sharply squared or rectangular, like the Cartier Tank and Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso (above); softy cushion-shaped, like the Panerai Luminor and Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921; oval-shaped, like the Breguet Reine de Naples and other luxury ladies’ models; tonneau (“barrel”-shaped), like the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang and many Richard Mille models; and a host of others that combine elements of these and other polygonal shapes.  The shape that has proven to be the most popular and influential is the octagon: eight-sided bezels have proliferated ever since Audemars Piguet launched the Royal Oak (above) in 1972, and watchmakers have also dabbled in other unconventional shapes: the sharply faceted bezel of the Zeni...

Photo Report - An Evening With Cartier In Amsterdam Fratello
Cartier Sep 22, 2025

Photo Report - An Evening With Cartier In Amsterdam

Earlier this month, we hosted a Cartier × Fratello event in Amsterdam to celebrate Cartier’s 50th anniversary in the Netherlands. The brand organized an experience called “Tank: The Journey of a Timeless Icon,” which allowed guests to discover the evolution of this enduring timepiece. We invited some of our readers to the beautiful Cartier boutique […] Visit Photo Report - An Evening With Cartier In Amsterdam to read the full article.

Hands-On With Two Handsome Hanhart 415 ES Panda Chronographs Fratello
Sep 22, 2025

Hands-On With Two Handsome Hanhart 415 ES Panda Chronographs

Many modern chronographs strive to strike a balance between vintage appeal and modern build quality. Few of those efforts result in a package as appealing as the Hanhart 415 ES Panda chronographs. These models revisit a 1960s design while delivering features expected in a contemporary tool watch. I had the chance to go hands-on with […] Visit Hands-On With Two Handsome Hanhart 415 ES Panda Chronographs to read the full article.

Grand Seiko After Dark, “Moonlit Birch” SLGW007 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko After Dark “Moonlit Birch” Sep 22, 2025

Grand Seiko After Dark, “Moonlit Birch” SLGW007

Grand Seiko has been fairly quiet over the summer, but has just unveiled the latest addition to its Evolution 9 collection, the “Moonlit Birch” SLGW007. Effectively a new variant of the “Birch Bark” SLGW003 with a steel case and navy blue dial, the Moonlit Birch is a competent alternative to its titanium stablemate. In other words, it’s an attractive new livery for what was already a compelling watch, and retains its best characteristics including a nuanced and ergonomic case, gorgeous dial furniture, and the brand’s latest manually wound cal. 9SA4 movement. Initial thoughts The original “Birch Bark” launched last year and was one of the standout releases at Watches & Wonders due to its elegant case profile and impressive new movement. The Moonlit Birch is identical in most respects, but the case is stainless steel, rather than titanium, and the dial is finished in navy blue instead of bright white. Despite these modest differences, the Moonlit Birch is appealing in its own right. The dial texture is subtle, but it’s enough of a Grand Seiko calling card to prevent the watch from looking too generic; a common trap for time-only dress watches. The stainless steel case exhibits the brand’s Evolution 9 styling, which gives the Moonlit Birch a bold, angular presence. In answer to the demand for slimmer options from Grand Seiko, the dimensions are nearly ideal, 38.6 mm in diameter and just under 10 mm thick. The watch is powered by the cal. 9SA4, which is pa...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218 Vs. Breitling Superocean Heritage B31 Automatic 42 Fratello
Breitling Superocean Heritage B31 Automatic Sep 21, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218 Vs. Breitling Superocean Heritage B31 Automatic 42

Turn on the coffee machine because it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown. In this week’s battle, two retro-infused dive watches take center stage. The first is the recently released Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218. It’s a modern remake of a 1993 classic made exclusively for the Italian Navy. It will face off against the […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218 Vs. Breitling Superocean Heritage B31 Automatic 42 to read the full article.

My Highlights From A Week In Switzerland For Geneva Watch Days Fratello
Ming together make it feel Sep 20, 2025

My Highlights From A Week In Switzerland For Geneva Watch Days

It’s always a pleasure to return to Geneva. The lake, the atmosphere, and, of course, the watch industry coming together make it feel like home for a week. Compared to Watches and Wonders, Geneva Watch Days has a different rhythm, feeling a little more relaxed but no less important. For me, it’s as much about […] Visit My Highlights From A Week In Switzerland For Geneva Watch Days to read the full article.

Zenith’s DEFY Skyline Chronograph Review: A Beautiful Blue Ceramic Masterpiece WatchAdvice
Zenith s DEFY Skyline Chronograph Sep 20, 2025

Zenith’s DEFY Skyline Chronograph Review: A Beautiful Blue Ceramic Masterpiece

This isn’t just another colour variant, it’s Zenith pushing the DEFY Skyline Chronograph into full-ceramic territory with its signature blue. The result is a watch that turns heads like a show car but wears like a daily driver. A fitting 160th-anniversary statement piece that blends Zenith’s history with its future. What We Love Full royal-blue ceramic case and bracelet give the watch a bold, cohesive look that stands out from almost anything else in this price segment. Despite the 42 mm size, the ceramic construction keeps the watch surprisingly light and wearable, even on slimmer wrists. Zenith’s El Primero 3600 combines high-frequency accuracy, 1/10th-second timing, and a 60-hour reserve. What We Don’t Matching blue sub-dials keeps the design cohesive, but doesn’t have visual separation compared to contrasting colours. The date at 4:30 is a necessary compromise but still slightly disrupts dial symmetry. Ceramic links can be trickier to size and adjust compared to steel bracelets. Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 9/10 Earlier this year, Zenith released a host of blue ceramic timepieces in celebration of its 160th anniversary. The timepieces included the Pilot Big Date Flyback, Chronomaster Sport, DEFY Skyline Chronograph, and, of course, the very special Zenith G.F.J timepiece. These special limited edition models were given the blue colour treatment as it’s a signature colour of the brand. The colour ...

After 270 Years, Vacheron Constantin Reaches Beyond Watchmaking With La Quête Du Temps Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Reaches Beyond Watchmaking Sep 20, 2025

After 270 Years, Vacheron Constantin Reaches Beyond Watchmaking With La Quête Du Temps

If asked which was more impressive, it would be hard for me to choose between the La Quête du Temps clock unveiled at the Louvre in Paris or the staff of Vacheron Constantin putting on a surprising show of music and dance in the Genevan manufacture the next day. “VC” started its celebration of 270 […] Visit After 270 Years, Vacheron Constantin Reaches Beyond Watchmaking With La Quête Du Temps to read the full article.

Announcement: Brandon Moore Joins SJX Watches as Full-Time Editorial Director SJX Watches
Sep 19, 2025

Announcement: Brandon Moore Joins SJX Watches as Full-Time Editorial Director

Seven years after writing his first editorial for SJX Watches, Brandon Moore joins the SJX team as full-time Editorial Director. Like many of us, Brandon got his start in the watch community through the PuristS forum (now WatchProSite), in 2008. A decade later he began writing about topics like the community’s obsession with in-house movements and how finishing has captured the industry in the age of social media. In 2023 he became a regular contributor while still working full time in software sales, until now. Brandon’s personal interests lie in contemporary high-end watchmaking, with a particular affinity for independent brands, a long-time focus of SJX Watches. He also enjoys pulling back the curtain on watch production with behind-the-scenes visits to manufactures big and small. In addition, Brandon co-hosts the SJX Podcast, where he and SJX cover new releases and industry news in a more candid format.  

Rolex Daytona Rainbow: When An Icon Goes Colorfully Gem-Set Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Daytona Rainbow When Sep 19, 2025

Rolex Daytona Rainbow: When An Icon Goes Colorfully Gem-Set

Aside from the watch that was made legendary by Paul Newman - and which would forever, unofficially, carry the famous actor’s name - there is probably no version of the Rolex Daytona that is more coveted than the “Rainbow” models that bring a meticulously designed and eye-catchingly beautiful assortment of colorful precious stones to the bezel, case, and dial of the motorsport-inspired luxury chronograph. Here is the story behind the Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” and why it has become yet another smash hit for the Crown in the 21st Century.  To start off, it’s worth answering the question, “Why is the Rolex Daytona so famous in the first place?” The model’s success story begins in 1962, when Rolex, hot on the heels of other genre-defining watch releases like the Explorer, GMT-Master, and Submariner several years earlier, became the official timekeeper of the “Great American Race,” the Daytona 500. In celebration of the partnership, the Swiss brand introduced its original “Cosmograph” racing-inspired chronograph watch the following year. The watch, notable for its tachymeter bezel and three-register dial design, adopted the name “Daytona” shortly thereafter and really took the enthusiast community by storm when actor, director, and part-time racecar driver Paul Newman began wearing one regularly. Newman became a big-screen icon in the 1970s, around the same time that auto racing took off in popularity as a spectator sport, and this confluence of...

Our Favorite Seiko Watches of All Time Worn & Wound
Rolex Sep 19, 2025

Our Favorite Seiko Watches of All Time

When it comes right down to it, there’s no more important watch brand to the enthusiast community than Seiko. Sure, Rolex is the biggest brand in the world, and the most recognizable brand name (for any product) ever. But no other brand matches Seiko for variety, accessibility, quality, and pure fun. There’s truly something for everybody under the Seiko tent, and it’s a brand that we find ourselves unable to quit, even when they frustrate us for any number of reasons.  But this isn’t about those frustrations. This post is about the Seikos we love the most. We asked our contributors to pick their favorite Seiko of all time, and we think as you read through these selections you’ll find that the thing that ties them all together is a deep personal connection to a watch. That’s what’s at the heart of this hobby, and what makes Seiko so special.  We want to know the Seikos that you love the most, so let us know in the comments what you’d pick.  Elodie Townsend – Seiko Flightmaster SNA411P1 I can’t hear the name Seiko without getting misty-eyed about the watch that introduced me to the wider world of horology fandom: the Seiko Flightmaster SNA411P1. It’s big, brazenly busy, and admittedly over-packed with features that I would never use (calculus, anyone), but that pop of yellow and the charm of its over-complications make it a joy to wear, use, and show off.  My dad got me my “Flighty” as a gift for my 21st birthday years back; when the price hadn...

Grand Seiko Goes Gold SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Goes Gold Grand Seiko Sep 19, 2025

Grand Seiko Goes Gold

Grand Seiko has unveils three gold Spring Drive models with the new 9RA2 movement, the Japan-only Heritage Collection SLGA030, SLGA027 and SLGA028, in rose, white, and yellow gold respectively. The new collection benefits from a slimmer case, a longer power reserve, and some new dials to go with the satisfying heft of a full 18k gold bracelet that weighs in at almost 200 g. SLGA030 in rose gold. Initial Thoughts While mostly unknown outside Japan, a trio of gold Spring Drive models in 44GS-style cases on full gold bracelets were a staple of the domestic Grand Seiko catalog for nearly a decade, powered by the cal. 9R15 that was once the brand’s finest automatic Spring Drive movement. While identical to the cal. 9R65, save for a gold medallion on the rotor, Seiko set aside the best performing quartz timing packages for these special movements. The earlier generation of all-gold models, from left to right: SBGA364, SBGA361, and SBGA362. Grand Seiko has decided that now is the time to refresh the line with the upgraded cal. 9RA2, while preserving the heavyweight gravitas and luxurious bracelet of its predecessor. I have anticipated these watches since the second generation of Spring Drive movements launched in 2020; it took five years, but the result meets my expectations, though I would have liked a gold winding weight to match the case material. Selling watches on full precious metal bracelets in this segment is a mark of a strong brand. Gold prices and luxury margins bein...

From Stadiums To Studios - Hublot’s Atypical Cultural Footprint Fratello
Hublot s Atypical Cultural Footprint Sep 19, 2025

From Stadiums To Studios - Hublot’s Atypical Cultural Footprint

Hublot recently celebrated 10 years as the official timekeeper of the UEFA Champions League. To mark the occasion, the house released a special limited-edition Classic Fusion Chronograph. You may have noticed that we didn’t cover it on Fratello. Why? Well, because such sponsorships and co-branded watches tend not to interest our readers all that much. […] Visit From Stadiums To Studios - Hublot’s Atypical Cultural Footprint to read the full article.

Introducing: Three 38mm Perpetual Calendars From Audemars Piguet Fratello
Audemars Piguet Audemars Piguet Sep 17, 2025

Introducing: Three 38mm Perpetual Calendars From Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet is known for many things, and the perpetual calendar is certainly among them. From ultra-thin variants to recent Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar references, the complication has been a cornerstone of the brand’s horological reputation. Earlier this year, AP launched a new generation of calibers designed with ergonomics in mind inside 41mm Royal […] Visit Introducing: Three 38mm Perpetual Calendars From Audemars Piguet to read the full article.

In-Depth: Vacheron Constantin’s La Quête Du Temps is an Astronomical Clock in Every Sense SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s La Quête Du Sep 16, 2025

In-Depth: Vacheron Constantin’s La Quête Du Temps is an Astronomical Clock in Every Sense

Vacheron Constantin’s 270th anniversary tour de force continues with the La Quête Du Temps ‘Mecanique D’art’, a metre-tall astronomical clock, automata, and decorative object. While the brand teased us with the most complicated wristwatch ever made earlier this year, it’s been planning something much, much grander – a true monument to time. Initial thoughts I see La Quête Du Temps as part of a near millennia old tradition of astronomical clocks and mechanical follies. During the very late 12th century, an Artuqid king commissioned an exceptional astronomical water clock from famed Islamic inventor Ismail al-Jazari. Al-Jazari’s “castle clock” kept time, but only as an ancillary function. The clock tracked the passage of the sun, the passage and phase of the moon and the zodiacs, and on the sixth, ninth and twelfth hours a cast of five life-sized automata sprung to life, playing drums and trumpets to dazzle the royal court. Other kings commissioned similar astronomical clocks from inventor in their courts, as symbols of their power and sophistication. If not kings, it was congregations and city councils raising these models of the heavens on Earth as symbols of prosperity and prestige. And today, Vacheron Constantin, the oldest watch manufacturer, builds one for itself. The Solaria, the most complicated wristwatch yet made, was not the brand’s 270th anniversary flagship – this is. Image – Vacheron Constantin/Stephane Sby Balmy This year has been mor...

Fratello On Air: Watches And Cars In Geneva, Budapest, And London Fratello
Sep 16, 2025

Fratello On Air: Watches And Cars In Geneva, Budapest, And London

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air. We’ve been on hiatus for the last month during the summer, but we’re back in action! In this installment, we detail some of the places we’ve been and what we’ve seen. Cars and watches have been high on the list! This podcast player is blocked because […] Visit Fratello On Air: Watches And Cars In Geneva, Budapest, And London to read the full article.

SJX Podcast: Best of Geneva Watch Days SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Sep 16, 2025

SJX Podcast: Best of Geneva Watch Days

On episode 10 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon Moore discuss the highlights and hands-on impressions from Geneva Watch Days, including the Greubel Forsey QP Balancier, Lange 1815 Tourbillon Black Enamel, Gérald Genta’s new Minute Repeater, and the latest perpetual calendars from Audemars Piguet. We also discuss the significance of Tag Heuer’s carbon hairsprings; after a short-lived launch in 2019, the brand has taken a mulligan and relaunched this technology with a key difference that might make carbon hairsprings a real alternative to silicon. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

Looking Back on a Decade of Windup Watch Fair Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Sep 15, 2025

Looking Back on a Decade of Windup Watch Fair

Ten years ago, in a cab stuck in traffic somewhere in Manhattan, the decision was made to put together a watch fair for like-minded brands and watch collectors. Not a stuffy event, but rather one where all are welcome. An event where small, young brands can be in the same room as long-established brands on an equal footing. An event that is free and open to the public. An event called Windup Watch Fair. The first Windup Watch Fair   Windup is for the children   Windup OGs – Christopher Ward and Oris   It was a weekend to remember   With the confidence that only comes from not knowing precisely what you are getting yourself into, we moved ahead with renting a space, rallying brands, hiring production vendors, and more. On October 23rd, 2015, we opened the doors to a pleasant surprise: there was a line down the block. In the years since, we’ve expanded and refined the Windup Watch Fair many times over. First, we added San Francisco, then Chicago, and most recently, Dallas. Each show grew a little in size, but also in stature. Windup went from a simple fair to a cultural rallying point for watch enthusiasts. It became a format that has been replicated around the world. In 2024, we expanded Windup Watch Fair NYC to an international scale, attracting over 150 brands and seeing over 10,000 attendees. And now, we’re excited to host Windup NYC once again, honoring 10 years of hard work, enthusiasm, and great watches. But, more importantly, it marks 10 years of bringing e...

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon Black Enamel SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Sep 15, 2025

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon Black Enamel

The most recent launch from A. Lange & Söhne was surprising, even while being familiar. The 1815 Tourbillon Black Enamel is, well, an 1815 Tourbillon with a black enamel dial. Nothing about the watch is unexpected, since all the elements have been employed elsewhere. But the watch is outstanding in quality, as is expected for a Lange, and strikingly and usually beautiful. Moreover, it is priced reasonably well, as such things go. Initial thoughts Cosmetic variations of an existing model are rarely great, but the new 1815 Tourbillon manages to be that. The original 1815 Tourbillon was fundamentally a good watch – well made and  functionally designed – but a little plain. The latest variation is outstanding. It’s just as well made, but the black enamel dial adds oomph. No risks were taken with the aesthetics; it is exactly the same in terms of design, but now in glossy black enamel. The tourbillon also hacks and includes a zero-reset seconds Perhaps most unexpected is the price. Many recent Lange releases often felt too expensive, this breaks the habit. At just under US$220,000, the 1815 Tourbillon is priced fairly, maybe even competitively, in its segment. In this respect, the 1815 Tourbillon reminds me of the Tribute to Celestial, an equally surprisingly well priced watch by Lange’s sister company Vacheron Constantin. And for the lucky, lucky few, Lange bestowed a baguette diamond bezel on a handful of these tourbillons, which raises the price by only about US$7...