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HANDS-ON: The Depancel Serie-R 5th Anniversary Time+Tide
May 9, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Depancel Serie-R 5th Anniversary

Five years is a drop in the ocean for a heritage watchmaker, but for a brand like Depancel the wooden anniversary is truly significant. The spirit of racing runs through them much deeper than their short existence may suggest, and they manage to stand out in a truly flooded market of motoring-inspired watches. Their best … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Depancel Serie-R 5th Anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands On: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph One May 9, 2023

Hands On: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph

One of my favorite releases from Watches & Wonders (W&W;) was the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph. Complicated Reversos are almost always interesting given the space constraints and commercial implications in developing rectangular movements, and the Tribute Chronograph is no exception.  The new chronograph is a remake of sorts that honours one of the brand’s signature watches from the 1990s. While the original Reverso Chronographe Retrograde was a 500-piece limited edition in pink gold from 1996, the Tribute Chronograph is a regular production watch available in both pink gold or steel. Both versions feature a sun-ray brushed primary dial and partially open-worked chronograph dial on the reverse. Initial thoughts As a fan of the original Reverso chronograph, I am excited to see this concept brought back to life. The key elements that made the original unique, namely the distinct styles of the two faces and the compact, rectangular chronograph movement, have been retained and updated. Both the steel and pink gold references are attractive, but the pink gold version is arguably the most appealing with its gold-on-black livery that brings to mind vintage “gilt” dials.  That said, there are a few trade-offs that give me pause. The large case of the Tribute Chronograph is potentially problematic for some wrists, and the simplified dial feels generic (whereas the original had a guilloche dial). I am also conflicted about the movement. On one hand, it’s gre...

Time+Tide welcomes microbrand powerhouse Baltic to our shop Time+Tide
Baltic May 8, 2023

Time+Tide welcomes microbrand powerhouse Baltic to our shop

Today we’re delighted to announce that the T+T shop is now stocking Baltic, the flagbearers of excellent, affordable design. The French brand lays claim to being the microbrand, launching just over five years ago on Kickstarter, and continuing on its upward trajectory ever since. Baltic’s most-loved designs will be hitting the shop right away, including the two … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide welcomes microbrand powerhouse Baltic to our shop appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: The IWC Ingenieur 40 SJX Watches
IWC Ingenieur 40 One May 7, 2023

Up Close: The IWC Ingenieur 40

One of the most talked-about and contentious releases of the year, the IWC Ingenieur 40 is a reinterpretation of the vintage Ingenieur SL designed by Gérald Genta. By sticking closely to the design of the 1976 original – and thus catering the current fad for integrated-bracelet sports watches – IWC is positioning the Ingenieur as a key part of its line-up, despite several unsuccessful attempts to reboot the collection in recent years. Initial thoughts  With past revivals of the Ingenieur diverging further and further from the 1976 model in terms of styling, enthusiasts have been eagerly awaiting the return of the original design. And the recent popularity of integrated bracelets made such a comeback all the more likely. Now the Ingenieur has returned – in undoubtedly the correct guise. Though the design has been well received, there has been criticism of the movement and price. By staying faithful to the original design, the Ingenieur 40 gets it right. The construction shows attention to detail in the essential elements, including the patterned dial and bezel secured by polygonal screws, along with a slim case profile. These elements echo the vintage original, while still making it obvious the Ingenieur 40 is a new design. Despite the visual and tactile appeal, the Ingenieur 40 is burdened with significant drawbacks. The first is the cal. 32111, a movement found in entry-level models like Mark XX, which cost quite a bit less than the Ingenieur 40. Because the cal. ...

KISS, MARRY, KILL: The Time+Tide team reveal their picks from Watches & Wonders Time+Tide
May 6, 2023

KISS, MARRY, KILL: The Time+Tide team reveal their picks from Watches & Wonders

Watches & Wonders is obviously a great time to get introduced to some of the biggest novelties of the year across 40-plus brands. But, it is also a rare moment each year where our global team finds themselves all in one place together. Last year, you let us know you really enjoyed our meet the … ContinuedThe post KISS, MARRY, KILL: The Time+Tide team reveal their picks from Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

eBay Finds: Elgin Sportsman, Jeep Comanche LCD, and Full Kits Galore Worn & Wound
Hamilton Enicar May 4, 2023

eBay Finds: Elgin Sportsman, Jeep Comanche LCD, and Full Kits Galore

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Bucherer Archimedes Super Compressor Starting this week off with a killer vintage diver, a Bucherer Archimedes Super Compressor. This beauty is the classic 36mm dual crown type, with the same case style used by companies like Bulova, Hamilton, Enicar and Benrus to name a few. The Archimedes stands out from other Super Compressors with the bright orange dial. This example is in excellent condition with an unpolished case and flawless dial. The dual crowns are the oversized type, with the classic cross-hatched design on the ends. Seller states the watch runs well, but no movement picture. You really can’t go wrong with these EPSA cased Super Compressor divers, and they are only getting more desired by collectors and harder to find in good shape. View auction here. Vintage Accutron Navigator Here’s a rare and unusual piece, a vintage 1967 Accutron Navigator Mark 2 ships chronometer. These were used as extremely accurate time keeping devices on ships to aid in navigation. Usually these are high grade manual clocks, but Accutron dipped their toes in the water (see what I did there? ;-)) with their tuning fork movements. I read that this clock used three tuning fork movements mounted at...

Five alternatives to the Tudor Black Bay 54, since you already can’t get one Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay 54 since May 4, 2023

Five alternatives to the Tudor Black Bay 54, since you already can’t get one

As soon as Tudor was founded as an affordable offshoot of Rolex, their cult popularity began. Even so, I don’t think many people could have predicted just how far things would come. The introduction of the Black Bay series in 2012 really accelerated Tudor’s journey out from Rolex’s shadow, and the last handful of years … ContinuedThe post Five alternatives to the Tudor Black Bay 54, since you already can’t get one appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Interview: Cyrille Vigneron, Philosopher King of Cartier SJX Watches
Cartier After May 3, 2023

Interview: Cyrille Vigneron, Philosopher King of Cartier

After a quarter century at Cartier, Cyrille Vigneron was tapped for the top job in 2016, becoming President and Chief Executive Officer of perhaps the grandest name in jewellery. Under his stewardship Cartier’s lustre has only grown. Not only is the jeweller the second-largest watchmaker by sales, it is such a coveted marque that LVMH chief Bernard Arnault recently commented in the Wall Street Journal, “Cartier is a fantastic brand [but] it’s not for sale.” During Watches & Wonders, I met Mr Vigneron for an interview that ran longer than expected, but we barely touched on watches or jewellery. Dressed in a grey turtleneck, Mr Vigneron possessed the air of an intellectual, very much atypical for an industry where leaders are often big personalities and dressed to match. Yet Mr Vigneron is actually something of a social media influencer, albeit a professional one with over 82,000 followers on LinkedIn. His latest post on the professional social media platform posed the question, “What is true beauty?”, accompanied by a photo of a fallen autumn leaf. It received over a thousand likes and almost 100 comments. His posts on the network usually discuss abstract concepts while offering sharp insight, which is why I decided to leave out the watches (which we have already amply covered) and instead seek his perspective on bigger topics. The interview was edited for clarity and length. SJX: I follow your LinkedIn posts and find there’s always a philosophical, reflective...

Business News: Davide Cerrato Appointed CEO of Bremont SJX Watches
Montblanc May 2, 2023

Business News: Davide Cerrato Appointed CEO of Bremont

An English brand best known for its aviator watches, Bremont has just announced Davide Cerrato will take the helm as chief executive officer. An industry veteran with a background in design, Mr Cerrato will also join Bremont’s board. His career include stints at Panerai and Montblanc (and more recently, a brief tenure at HYT), as well as Tudor, where he played a key role in the brand’s stylistic reboot. Founded by brothers Nick and Giles English in 2002, Bremont has been run by the siblings since its founding. The appointment of Mr Cerrato is the latest development in the evolution two decade-old brand, which recently raised money from investors including hedge fund manager Bill Ackman, valuing the firm at over £100 million. And just last year, Bremont inaugurated a 35,000 ft² facility in Henley-on-Thames, an hour’s drive west of London, known as The Wing after its swooping form. Taken together, these developments clearly reflect the brand’s ambitions to be a global name in premium sports watches. A veteran in the cockpit Bremont got its start as a maker of watches aimed at aviators and soon gained a following for its association with various military fighter units. Amongst its best known watches is a wristwatch developed in cooperation with Martin Baker, the leading maker of ejection seats for fighter aircraft. While the brand’s focus on aviation-inspired timepieces has been the foundations of its success, the appointment of Mr Cerrato will likely bring change...

Business News: F.P. Journe to Open Boutique in London SJX Watches
F.P. Journe May 1, 2023

Business News: F.P. Journe to Open Boutique in London

Having been the subject of chatter since the beginning of 2023, the F.P. Journe boutique in London is now official. Located at 33 Bruton Street, around the corner from Hermès in London’s upmarket Mayfair district, the store is slated to open in early summer. Although F.P. Journe has been in London almost since its founding in 1999, it was always represented by retailers. Now, as is the case in many other cities, F.P. Journe is bringing things in-house. The brand’s 11th boutique, the new London store joins its long-established outposts in Tokyo, Geneva, and Hong Kong, giving F.P. Journe a major presence in yet another key city. The upcoming boutique at 33 Bruton Street Given the mismatched supply and demand for F.P. Journe watches – it makes about 1,000 watches a year and enjoys demand many multiples of that – the business rationale of the new boutique might be hard to grasp, at least on its face. But given that Mr Journe has already spoken of consolidating his brand’s retail network around the world – word has it that even some boutiques might not be spared – it can be inferred that the London boutique will be receiving some of the inventory that would have otherwise gone to the soon-to-be-closed locations. According to industry insiders, the team for the new boutique has already been hired, with a respected industry veteran slated to take the helm of the store. Regardless of his or her talents, the boutique’s manager will likely need to be adept at managi...

Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Sapphire: a Minute Repeater Housed Entirely in Transparent Sapphire Crystal - Reprise Quill & Pad
Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Sapphire Apr 29, 2023

Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Sapphire: a Minute Repeater Housed Entirely in Transparent Sapphire Crystal - Reprise

In celebration of the 25th anniversary of the L.U.C collection, Chopard unveiled a minute repeater at Watches and Wonders 2022, which once again demonstrates the technical prowess of the manufacture. Part of an upcoming set called The Trilogy of Sound, the L.U.C Full Strike Sapphire pushes the boundaries of the sophisticated grand complication genre and marks some firsts in the realm of haute horlogerie.

The storied history of the Seiko mechanical chronograph Time+Tide
Seiko mechanical chronograph Occupying Apr 27, 2023

The storied history of the Seiko mechanical chronograph

Occupying a unique spot in the world of watchmaking, Seiko’s offerings provide an incredible span of diversity – from entry-level quartz pieces to haute horlogerie avant-garde wonders. Sprinkle in a bucketful of horological, historical significance, and one must admit that there’s no brand quite like Seiko. Among their more notable contributions has to be the … ContinuedThe post The storied history of the Seiko mechanical chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

On-Wrist Reaction: Steampunk Surprises & Unexpected Movements Worn & Wound
Vulcain Apr 25, 2023

On-Wrist Reaction: Steampunk Surprises & Unexpected Movements

In this episode of On-Wrist Reaction, Zach and Blake take a gander at not three, but 4 watches that represent 4 very different approaches to the small/kinda-small independent brand space. We get a first look at a couple favorites from Brew and Vulcain that you might be familiar with, and find plenty to enjoy in these staples, as well as ponder if there’s any colorway that wouldn’t suit the Metric (if so, we haven’t found it). There are also a pair of unexpected watches from the brands Timeless and Atelier Holger, each displaying unique and conceptual ideas that we look forward to exploring further in their full reviews, coming soon. The Timeless HMS presents an array of ideas, and while they might not all land, there’s plenty of details to admire. Likewise, the Atelier Holger takes plenty of risks that we love seeing, and looks to challenge a price range not often occupied by new micro-brands. They represent two stand out releases this year from brands we hope to see more from. Drop any questions about these in the comments below or on YouTube and we’ll be sure to address them in their reviews.  If you have any questions or thoughts on these watches that you’d like to see addressed in our reviews, be sure to let us know in the comments. Furthermore, if you have a watch or a piece of gear you’d like to see us react to, please reach out to us at info@wornandwound.com. The post On-Wrist Reaction: Steampunk Surprises & Unexpected Movements appeared first on Worn...

Konstantin Chaykin and Louis Erard Team Up on Le Régulateur “Time-Eater” SJX Watches
Louis Erard Team Up Apr 25, 2023

Konstantin Chaykin and Louis Erard Team Up on Le Régulateur “Time-Eater”

With a knack for novel collaborations with partners ranging from industrial designers to guillocheurs, Louis Erard’s latest project brings on board Konstantin Chaykin. The result is Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time-Eater, a regulator-style wristwatch inspired by the Russian independent watchmaker’s signature “rolling eye” watches. Inspired by a one-eyed monster from Slavic folklore, the Time-Eater has a whimsical vibe that departs from Louis Erard’s more serious offerings like the recent example with a hand-made wood marquetry dial. It is available in either a 42 mm or 39 mm size, or both together in a two-piece box set. Initial thoughts  Following its successful collaborations with other notable watchmakers, it’s perhaps no surprise that Louis Erard recruited Konstantin Chaykin. Earlier partnerships, with Vianney Halter for instance, broadened the appeal of the independent watchmakers by making the name accessible at a far lower price point. Despite Mr Chaykin’s specialty in avant-garde or fantastical designs, the Time-Eater is surprisingly restrained compared to his own creations, no doubt because it is based on the existing template of the Louis Erard regulator. As a result, it is not the full-blown Konstantin Chaykin watch that collectors might expect from the Russian watchmaker. But then again, the price of about US$4,000 means the Time-Eater is about the fifth a price of Mr Chaykin’s trademark Minion watch. The Time-Eater watch is...

The Moser Streamliner Centre Seconds Smoked Salmon is even prettier in pink Time+Tide
Casio ns like Christmas or Apr 22, 2023

The Moser Streamliner Centre Seconds Smoked Salmon is even prettier in pink

Smoked salmon is something I always try and have in my fridge. Back in my 1980s childhood in the UK, smoked salmon had quite a luxurious status – it only got airings in our house on special occasions like Christmas or when we had notable visitors (like my gran). These days, however, it’s no longer … ContinuedThe post The Moser Streamliner Centre Seconds Smoked Salmon is even prettier in pink appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

D.C.’s top five releases from Watches & Wonders 2023 Time+Tide
Apr 22, 2023

D.C.’s top five releases from Watches & Wonders 2023

Now that the smoke has cleared, and I’ve had a moment to wrap my head around the enormity of Watches & Wonders 2023, I’ve nailed down a list of my favourites from the show. Yes, I realise my taste can be quirky, and you won’t find anything overtly dressy, blingy, or haute horology-leaning in my … ContinuedThe post D.C.’s top five releases from Watches & Wonders 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Kendall Roy’s change in watches offers an unsettling hint of things to come… Time+Tide
Apr 22, 2023

Kendall Roy’s change in watches offers an unsettling hint of things to come…

In Succession, Kendall Roy is a twitchy psychodrama of a man in a cashmere baseball cap.  His personality flip-flops and flop-flips from one scene to the next. One moment he’s grandiose and narcissistic, the next he’s pitifully insecure. But most of all, Kendall is just very, very sad as he yearns for his father’s approval … ContinuedThe post Kendall Roy’s change in watches offers an unsettling hint of things to come… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cartier Introduces the Tank Normale Skeleton SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces Apr 21, 2023

Cartier Introduces the Tank Normale Skeleton

Having just introduced a revived version of the classic Tank Normale, Cartier also debuted a modern take on the design, the Tank Normale Skeleton. It’s equipped with a in-house skeletonised movement done in Cartier’s typical geometric style, but with a discreet twist in the form of a 24-hour time display. Initial thoughts  At a glance the Tank Normale Skeleton might seem like yet another skeletonised Tank, of which there have been several over the years. But look closer and it emerges as something more interesting. The dial tells the time on a 24-hour scale, a modest complication in mechanical terms but one that references Cartier’s historical day-and-night timepieces. And the complication is echoed in the sun-and-moon motif of the bridges rendered in a complementary Art Deco style. In short, it’s an elegant take on the day-and-night display done in quintessential Cartier style. Created especially for this model, the calibre inside is notably attractive. It’s fairly symmetrical in layout – the balance is at 12 o’clock while the barrel sits at six – and finished to match the style of the bridges. But it does still have an Etachron regulator, which is found in all Cartier skeleton movements but still out of place considering the price. And the price is steep. At US$71,000 in yellow gold and slightly more in platinum, it is pricey for a relatively straightforward skeleton watch. In comparison, the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor also launched this year is ...

The Audemars Piguet Skeleton BA4266P002 is an intriguing vintage piece that demonstrates the brand’s history and craftmanship Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Skeleton BA4266P002 Apr 17, 2023

The Audemars Piguet Skeleton BA4266P002 is an intriguing vintage piece that demonstrates the brand’s history and craftmanship

Humans are strange creatures. We flock to what’s “hot” and turn our noses up at what’s “not” in order to feel a part of something. It happens all the time. In fashion, in cars and most definitely in watches. We stick with the hits (even when we can’t buy them!) and ignore the rest. For once … ContinuedThe post The Audemars Piguet Skeleton BA4266P002 is an intriguing vintage piece that demonstrates the brand’s history and craftmanship appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How Zenith’s aviation heritage cemented their sky-high appeal Time+Tide
Zenith s aviation heritage cemented Apr 16, 2023

How Zenith’s aviation heritage cemented their sky-high appeal

Take a look at some of the most famous pilot’s watches of all time, and ask yourself what they’re missing. It won’t appear obvious at first, but once you’ve realised then it will seem like a glaring omission forever. The answer is of course the word “pilot” itself, which is entirely due to Zenith registering … ContinuedThe post How Zenith’s aviation heritage cemented their sky-high appeal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: The Formex Essence Leggera Worn & Wound
Formex Essence Leggera Apr 14, 2023

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: The Formex Essence Leggera

A big part of the appeal of micro-brands* rests in their ability to exercise a greater level of general creativity to bring a specific vision to life, something we’ve always found value in around here. We’ve seen some pretty sophisticated stuff take shape, from unique hand sets and dials, to wandering hours and composite cases. One brand in particular has proven rather adept at implementing what I have no issues calling exotic engineering solutions to their watches, and that brand is Formex. With “roots in high-end watch manufacturing” that should come as no surprise, and while the brand’s own aesthetic has undergone some pretty wild transitions, they seem to have landed in a cohesive space with their latest generations of watches in the Essence, Reef, and Field collections.  *Okay, Formex isn’t exactly a micro-brand. They are attached to that noted “high-end watch manufacturer” in a way that very, very few brands (large or small) are. This allows them access to engineer solutions for things like quick adjustment mechanisms in a manner that almost zero micro-brands can. Formex is a small (but not really) manufacturer that produces their own watches, which take full advantage of that fact. The micro-brand or small-independent nomenclature doesn’t neatly apply here, but given the price points that Formex tends to play in, I view them along the same lines as more traditional micro-brands the likes of which we frequently discuss around here. $1790 [VIDEO] Ow...

In Conversation with Karl-Friedrich Scheufele on the Art and Science of Ferdinand Berthoud Revolution
Chopard has always had Apr 11, 2023

In Conversation with Karl-Friedrich Scheufele on the Art and Science of Ferdinand Berthoud

Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Co-President of Chopard, has always had a deep appreciation for the art, science and history of horology. This passion drove him to revive a long forgotten name from the annals of watchmaking, the 18th-century Clockmaker-Mechanic to King Louis XV and the French Navy, Ferdinand Berthoud. Berthoud’s extraordinarily precise marine chronometers built his reputation […]