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Tudor North Flag Review: Discontinued But Worth a Comeback? Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Nov 5, 2025

Tudor North Flag Review: Discontinued But Worth a Comeback?

We recently took a deep dive into the Tudor Ranger, and today, I’m going to go boldly forth and explore what I consider to be the Ranger’s spiritual sibling, albeit a discontinued one: the Tudor North Flag. Both watches have similar roots in 20th-century polar exploration, but while the Ranger looks to the past for its design codes, the North Flag, at its time, had its sights set on the future. While it marked a huge leap forward in Rolex-owned Tudor’s contemporary legacy and ultimately, further set the stage for the brand to finally come out of the looming shadow of the Crown, the North Flag has already become a relic of Tudor’s not-so-distant past. Down below, I’ll be taking you through a brief history lesson on the watch at hand, detailing the key design codes and features, and exploring why some vocal enthusiasts out there are begging for the North Flag to make a comeback.  Tudor North Flag History For most of the 20th century, Tudor leaned on its intrinsic connection to Rolex to boost its credibility, but by the 1990s, the brand’s reputation as Rolex’s “little brother” or “Rolex Lite” fell out of favor with the general watch-wearing public. Affordability as a guiding virtue was not, for lack of a better word, sexy anymore. Tudor had not differentiated itself enough from its more luxurious relative to stand effectively on its own, globally. The brand fled the U.S. market entirely in the late '90s, and it would spend over a decade working behind t...

TAG Heuer Honors Racing Legend Ayrton Senna With Two New Formula 1 Chronographs Fratello
TAG Heuer Honors Racing Legend Ayrton Nov 5, 2025

TAG Heuer Honors Racing Legend Ayrton Senna With Two New Formula 1 Chronographs

Few names are as closely linked in motorsport-themed watchmaking as TAG Heuer and Ayrton Senna. The latest TAG Heuer Ayrton Senna editions continue that relationship with two Formula 1 chronographs that pay tribute to the Brazilian driver’s legacy. Rather than chasing nostalgia, these models acknowledge Senna’s influence with a modern interpretation. Both watches - one […] Visit TAG Heuer Honors Racing Legend Ayrton Senna With Two New Formula 1 Chronographs to read the full article.

In-Depth: Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 in Stainless Steel SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 1518 Nov 5, 2025

In-Depth: Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 in Stainless Steel

Many superlatives have been ascribed to what might be the most valuable watch this fall auction season – the Patek Philippe ref. 1518 in stainless steel. Headlining Phillips’ upcoming auction in Geneva, the steel ref. 1518 is paradoxically extraordinary and ordinary all at once. As the first serially-produced perpetual calendar-chronograph wristwatch, the ref. 1518 is already a landmark Patek Philippe wristwatch, one that spawned a lineage that includes the refs. 2499, 3970, and 5970. And then there’s the ref. 1518 in steel – only four are known. The steel ref. 1518 has rarity, historical importance, and an eight-figure value; but on the wrist, this “holy grail” is compact, lightweight, and monochromatic, discreetly low-key. At a diminutive 35 mm in diameter, the ref. 1518 is small by today’s standards. The watch doesn’t look like much on the wrist from across a room; in fact, it isn’t immediately obvious to a layperson (or even a casual watch enthusiast) that the watch is worth more than most houses and vintage Ferraris. Yet the ref. 1518 in steel is appealing for many intellectual reasons: extreme rarity, historical lineage of the perpetual calendar chronograph, even sheer value. This is a trophy in many senses. Historically, the ref. 1518 was important even in its time. It was once Patek Philippe’s most complicated regular production wristwatch, and the steel ref. 1518 was likely the most expensive steel Patek Philippe when it was in the catalogue. ...

SJX Podcast: Sylvain Berneron – All In SJX Watches
Berneron Nov 5, 2025

SJX Podcast: Sylvain Berneron – All In

For episode 18 of the SJX Podcast, we sit down with Sylvain Berneron, founder of one of the most talked about new brands of the past few years. Fresh off the launch of the brand’s first complicated model, the Quantième Annuel, Mr Berneron breaks down what it takes to start a watch business and stay on pace to produce a new model every year. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

Seiko Marinemaster SJE101 Review: Divisive But Wears Like A Dream Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Nov 4, 2025

Seiko Marinemaster SJE101 Review: Divisive But Wears Like A Dream

The Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SJE101 1965 Diver’s Modern Reinterpretation is definitely a mouthful, but it’s definitely with purpose. Part of the higher-end Seiko Luxe family, the SJE101 evokes two icons - the 62MAS and Marinemaster - but can it live up to those lofty expectations? The answer, as you can imagine, is mixed. What’s for sure, though is that this is a uniquely wearable Seiko Prospex dive watch that measures less than 40mm and has some really impressive finishes. That said, the Marinemaster title carries a lot of expectations with it, and there has been a fair share of discourse about whether it lives up or not. Seiko Marinemaster Context What exactly is the big deal with the Seiko Marinemaster? Let’s take a look at how it came to be such a lauded name in the diver category. The first watch in the collection was actually the Seiko Marinemaster Quartz SBCN005, aka the Transocean from 1999. This was a 44mm-wide titanium watch that was highly functional with barometric pressure measurement and barometric trend display. A year later in 2000, the Marinemaster SBDX001 was released, boasting 300 meters of water resistance and no helium escape valve. The Marinemaster family would continue in production until about 2018, when it began to disappear in favor of the larger Prospex family. But about five years later, the Marinemaster would come back in the form of this collection. More than a couple of people have asked whether this is “really a Marinemaster...

Everything You Need to Know About this Year’s Vortic Military Edition Releases Worn & Wound
Hamilton Nov 4, 2025

Everything You Need to Know About this Year’s Vortic Military Edition Releases

Next week is Veterans Day, which for the last several years has marked an important moment for Vortic, the Colorado based watch brand specializing in repurposing vintage pocket watch movements and dials into wrist worn cases that serve as special tributes to America’s watchmaking past. Each year on Veterans Day, Vortic releases their Military Edition, a special series of watches that incorporate movements and dials sourced from watches commissioned by the United States military. The watches have been a big hit for Vortic since their introduction, usually selling out within minutes of going on sale. They draw not only watch collectors, but of course have a natural appeal to history lovers and collectors of military odds and ends – they really thread the needle perfectly across multiple bands of enthusiasm. This year’s release has some additional special significance as a total of three distinct options will be available when these watches launch, including the first ever Vortic watches running on a vintage Swiss movement.  A quick recap of what the Military Edition actually consists of as a watch is probably the best place to start. Watches in the Military Edition are sourced from the AN5740-1 pocket watch, also known as the “Master Navigational Watch”, built to the specs of the Army Air Corp during World War II by Elgin, Waltham, and Hamilton. As with other historic watches built to military specs, the dials were standardized across all manufacturers, and each M...

First Look – Vacheron Constantin Releases Unique Les Cabinotiers Pieces for its 270th Anniversary Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Releases Unique Les Cabinotiers Nov 4, 2025

First Look – Vacheron Constantin Releases Unique Les Cabinotiers Pieces for its 270th Anniversary

When it comes to complications, Vacheron Constantin is a veritable Titan in the arena and has earned its rightful place in the pantheon of high complications. Celebrating its grand 270th anniversary this year, Vacheron has outdone itself in 2025. Following the release of the world’s most complicated pocket watch last year, Vacheron Constantin has pulled […]

This quartet of Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers La Quête high complications honour 270 years of astronomic momentum Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers La Quête Nov 4, 2025

This quartet of Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers La Quête high complications honour 270 years of astronomic momentum

Vacheron Constantin releases four ultra-complicated watches as part of its 270th anniversary celebrations, all with astronomical themes.The post This quartet of Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers La Quête high complications honour 270 years of astronomic momentum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Micro-Brand Fair Spring Sprang Sprung Returns to Singapore SJX Watches
Nivada Grenchen Nov 4, 2025

Micro-Brand Fair Spring Sprang Sprung Returns to Singapore

Now taking place for the fifth year, Spring Sprang Sprung (SPRG) is a watch fair dedicated to micro-brands that is returning in November 2025. The Singapore-based event has grown from 22 brands in its first year to over 50 this year. The exhibitor list this year includes brands from Finland to China, as well as names that are arguably more established than the average micro-brand, like Oris, Nivada Grenchen, and Seagull. Also exhibiting are accessories makers, like Yi Leather that makes watch straps. As with past iterations of SPRG, the event includes workshops, one of which is a leather working class led by the proprietor of Yi Leather. SPRG’s founders are a pair integral to the micro-brand scene in Singapore: Sugiharto Kusumadi, who was a pioneering retailer of micro-brands when he founded Red Army Watches in 2004, and Yong Keong Lim, who owns Feynman Timekeepers and runs retailer BIG Time. According to its founders, SPRG aims to be “casual, welcoming, and inclusive… [bringing] together independent watch brand owners, enthusiasts, and newcomers to share their passion for horology”. SPRG takes place at the at the National Design Centre, November 8-9, 2025, from 11 am-7 pm. National Design Centre 111 Middle Road Singapore 188969 The event is open to the public, but workshops are ticketed with tickets available at Spring-sprang-sprung.com.  

Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 3 - Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription Vs. Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P Fratello
Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P Nov 4, 2025

Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 3 - Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription Vs. Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P

This is the third match in the Fratello Dress Watch Season contest, our effort to identify the best new dress watch of 2025. The series continues with a beautiful and classical duo. Match three in round one sees RJ defending the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription in yellow gold and Mike making his case for […] Visit Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 3 - Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription Vs. Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P to read the full article.

First Look – Atelier Wen Launches Inflection, an Integrated Bracelet Watch in Full-Tantalum Monochrome
Atelier Wen Nov 3, 2025

First Look – Atelier Wen Launches Inflection, an Integrated Bracelet Watch in Full-Tantalum

A Chinese brand founded by two Frenchmen, Atelier Wen, has come a long way since introducing its first watches in 2018. After a break to redefine their brand, the founders launched Perception, a unique combination of a guilloché dial inside an integrated, sporty-chic watch proudly made in China. This collection has given the brand quite some visibility. It’s now time […]

Minase Introduces Handcrafted Yusai Dials For Its 5 Windows Mid, 7 Windows, And Divido Watches Fratello
Minase Nov 3, 2025

Minase Introduces Handcrafted Yusai Dials For Its 5 Windows Mid, 7 Windows, And Divido Watches

Tokyo-based artist Towa Takaya creates pigments from soil, plants, and minerals gathered during her travels, which she then uses to craft watch dials. Now, Minase is introducing handcrafted Yusai dials made by her for its 5 Windows Mid, 7 Windows, and Divido watches. Takaya’s goal is to create a dial showing the essence of nature […] Visit Minase Introduces Handcrafted Yusai Dials For Its 5 Windows Mid, 7 Windows, And Divido Watches to read the full article.

Why Every Watch Collector Needs A “Calatrava” Fratello
IWC Calatrava” Cal 89 Nov 3, 2025

Why Every Watch Collector Needs A “Calatrava”

There’s something about a classic dress watch that resonates beyond fleeting trends. For me, it all started with the vintage IWC “Calatrava” Cal. 89 that I inherited from my grandfather. It is a watch from a bygone era when watchmaking was all about understated elegance, mechanical mastery, and timeless design. Recently, my Fratello colleagues discussed […] Visit Why Every Watch Collector Needs A “Calatrava” to read the full article.

Complicated Collectors: John Pierpont Morgan SJX Watches
Rado xically one Nov 3, 2025

Complicated Collectors: John Pierpont Morgan

As part of a continuing series on great watch collectors, following the first studies dedicated to Elliott Cabot Lee and Thomas Engel, the third instalment turns to the horological world of John Pierpont Morgan Sr. (1837-1913). Based on the famous 1912 Chiswick Press catalogue, this analysis reflects the range and typological structure of his collection. These watches span devotional and allegorical forms, astronomical instruments, and multi-functional works of mechanical synthesis. While Morgan’s approach has sometimes been described as encyclopaedic rather than selective, the collection itself tells a different story, one in which historical resonance and technical refinement consistently overlap. The selection offers a tangible expression of Morgan’s collecting logic, in which cultural meaning, mechanical ingenuity, and symbolic intent were sought in equal measure. The man In the pantheon of American capitalists, J. Pierpont Morgan occupies a singular place: titan of industry, consolidator of empires, and paradoxically, one of the greatest cultural preservationists of his age. Born in Hartford, Connecticut in 1837, the son of an ambitious transatlantic banker, he came of age amid the expanding architecture of American finance. His education, from early childhood, was European. He studied in Switzerland and later in Germany, where a brief period at the University of Göttingen introduced him to the German language and the foundations of art history. These formative ...

Hands-On: Rolex Perpetual 1908 Settimo SJX Watches
Rolex Perpetual 1908 Settimo Rolex Nov 3, 2025

Hands-On: Rolex Perpetual 1908 Settimo

Rolex has expanded the 1908 collection with the Perpetual 1908 Settimo, a yellow-gold dress watch with an all-new seven-link bracelet. Settimo, Italian for ‘seven’, refers to the number of links across the bracelet; five slender links in the centre framed by two broader links on each side. The result is a supple, tightly constructed bracelet that complements the refined proportions of the 1908. Powered by the advanced cal. 7140, the watch remains impressively slim at just 9.5 mm, combining Rolex’s famous industrial precision with genuine elegance, filling a long-standing gap in the brand’s line-up. Initial thoughts When I think of Rolex, the image in my mind is one of long-term thinking, industrial expertise, over-built movements, and iconic (but fairly chunky) designs. The 1908, especially the Settimo version, shows the brand also understands elegance. The Settimo bracelet recalls vintage ‘beads-of-rice’ bracelets and works well with the vintage-feeling aesthetic of the 1908. The slightly glistening lacquered dial and crisply faceted hour markers provide a bright, vivid appearance; perhaps its the sub-seconds at six and the lack of a date window, but it feels more refined than the dial of a typical Datejust or Day-Date. The case is very sleek on the wrist thanks to the cal. 7140, which, at just 4.05 mm in height, is 34% thinner than the brand’s own cal. 3235. No watch is perfect, and there are a few details that I find mildly annoying, like the plug atop the...