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A Week in Watches Ep. 34: A New Balance from Omega, Dune Watches from Christopher Ward, and a Gold Metric from Brew Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Jan 29, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep. 34: A New Balance from Omega, Dune Watches from Christopher Ward, and a Gold Metric from Brew

Welcome to episode 34 of A Week in Watches, where we’ve got managing editor Blake Buettner jumping back in to discuss a handful of new releases, and one important survey. We’re kicking things off with the biggest news of the week that’s focused on something very small from Omega, and that is their new Spirate Balance, which we introduce on the site right here, and react to in real time right here. We still not sure how it’s pronounced but the technology is impressive! The watch its packed in also makes quite the statement, and we’d love to hear your thoughts on this one. That Omega wasn’t the only big news this week, though. Brew dropped a stunning gold Metric on us that works way better than it has any business doing. Is this the watch that gets us into gold? Likely. Next up are a couple releases from the UK, with the 36mm Three Hander collection of watches from Farer, and new C65 Dune watches from Christopher Ward. Lots of unique personality to find in these watches, from big colorful dials, to svelte shapely cases. Finally, we’ve got a watch and wrist size survey from Mark Cho of NYC’s The Armoury. Let your voice be heard by taking the survey found right here. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 34: A New Balance from Omega, Dune Watches from Christopher Ward, and a Gold Metric from Br...

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HANDS-ON: The new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton is a superstar in their 2023 lineup Time+Tide
Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton Jan 28, 2023

HANDS-ON: The new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton is a superstar in their 2023 lineup

It’s been a good couple of years for Zenith (waiting lists and all), and they’re off to a blazing start for 2023 with the release of the new Defy Skyline Skeleton at LVMH Watch Week in Singapore. This integrated model has been a popular pick since it was introduced, and the new version features some … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton is a superstar in their 2023 lineup appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Watches, Stories, & Gear: Porsche Celebrates 75 Years, Jamming Out to Shaky Eddie, Settling the Helium Release Valve Debate Once and For All Worn & Wound
Jan 28, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Porsche Celebrates 75 Years, Jamming Out to Shaky Eddie, Settling the Helium Release Valve Debate Once and For All

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Car and Driver Porsche Vision 357 Concept Via Car And Driver Classic design is classic design. If it ain’t broke, then don’t fix it. That said, it’s somewhat refreshing to see brands, who are lucky enough to have products that have withstood the test of time, let their hair down a bit. To not take themselves too seriously. The Porsche Vision 357 is exactly that. Via Car And Driver In a recent Car and Driver article, we get introduced to the latest concept from the German automotive manufacturer with the Porsche Vision 357. If the car looks familiar, that’s because it’s an homage to the very first vehicle produced by Porsche in the 356. The car body most certainly takes after the curviness of the 356, but has all the futuristic touches you would expect from a concept design – unique lighting system, hidden door handles, and 20-inch magnesium wheels with carbon fiber hubcaps. The best part about the Vision 357? The playful use of decals and the number “75” displayed on various parts of the car, paying tribute to 75 years of an icon. If the Porsche Vi...

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HANDS-ON: The new Zenith Defy Revival A3691 & A3690 Boutique Edition Time+Tide
Zenith Defy Revival A3691 & Jan 26, 2023

HANDS-ON: The new Zenith Defy Revival A3691 & A3690 Boutique Edition

The idea of a re-edition within the watch market is nothing new. Many brands have woken up to the huge demand for revivals, recreations, or remixes of their lauded vintage references. But when these designs date to the specialist era of watchmaking, where multiple brands turned to the same dial, case, and movement manufacturers, there … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new Zenith Defy Revival A3691 & A3690 Boutique Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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We Went Hands-On with the New Releases from LVMH Watch Week, and These are Our Favorites Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Hublot Jan 25, 2023

We Went Hands-On with the New Releases from LVMH Watch Week, and These are Our Favorites

The new releases from LVMH Watch Week came to New York City last week, and of course the Worn & Wound team was there to check them out. It was the first big batch of new releases in 2023, and Bulgari, TAG Heuer, Hublot, and Zenith all brought a variety of watches to display. Here are initial impressions from Blake Buettner, Kat Shoulders, and Zach Kazan. Kat Shoulders  My favorite watch from the LVMH Preview was the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph. There were no doubt higher end horology pieces at the preview, but as far as watches I’d be ready to buy on the spot, this one won the day for me. I’ve been known amongst the Worn and Wound crew to not be a huge titanium lover, and quite honestly, I’m perfectly OK with that. The metal typically isn’t my favorite to wear due to the lighter feel. However, the grade 2 titanium that TAG uses felt incredibly nice in person and high quality. Maybe it was the sand blasted finishing as well, but something just really struck me about this particular Aquaracer. The finishing, the feel, the bezel action…it all just comes together perfectly in my opinion. The older I get, the more comfortable I am in this hobby saying that quartz is actually really convenient. Add the ability to charge the movement via solar power, and you have a really great tool watch you literally never have to worry about. The grayed out Aquaracer shutter dial that we’ve become familiar with along with the ice blue hands and text is eye-catc...

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Mark Cho’s Survey of Watch Size Preference and Our Own Wrist Size Perceptions is Back Worn & Wound
Jan 25, 2023

Mark Cho’s Survey of Watch Size Preference and Our Own Wrist Size Perceptions is Back

Data nerds, rejoice: Mark Cho’s watch size survey is back. Back in 2019, watch collector and menswear retailer Mark Cho conducted his first watch size survey in an attempt to put some data behind one of the most peculiar yet foundational facets of watch collecting (we wrote about that survey here). The questions in Mark’s survey go beyond simple preferences, but get to how we view our own wrist size. Is it smaller or larger than average? And what effect does that have on the watches we choose to buy? Mark even asks about preferences for a potential “secondary watch” (a sports watch for the weekend, for example) to put an even finer point on the way we feel about watch size.  When Mark first conducted the survey, he found that a significant percentage of respondents viewed their wrist as smaller than average, which could theoretically have been a result of the tail end of the Big Watch era making us all think our wrists were too small to comfortably handle some of the most popular watches of the time. In the relatively short period that’s passed since that first survey, though, smaller watches (not small watches) have fully come back into fashion, so it will be interesting to see if perceptions change along with preferences. Regardless, there’s sure to be a ton of data, and it will be interesting to comb through it once the survey is complete.  If you’re interested in Mark’s findings from that first survey, be sure to check out his lecture for the Horologi...

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Hands-On with the Dievas Maya MKIII Worn & Wound
Sinn Damasko UTS Archimede Jan 25, 2023

Hands-On with the Dievas Maya MKIII

Dievas is a cult microbrand even to those who are fans of cult microbrands. Founded in 2006, they are one of the OG independent tool watch brands. Following in the footsteps of Sinn, Damasko, UTS, Archimede, and others, Dievas’s focus is on tactical, modern, overbuilt, high-spec sports watches that are made in Germany. Still a rare origin of manufacture, Germany conjures a notion of precision, quality, and value that perhaps even surpasses Switzerland (especially in value). This is particularly different as Dievas was created by the team behind Gnomon Watches, a Singaporean retailer. At the very end of 2022, Dievas announced a new model, the Maya MKIII, after several years of being relatively dormant (models were for sale via Gnomon, but no new launches). As the name suggests, the new watch is the third iteration of the brand’s popular, tactical dive watch, the Maya. Redesigned from the ground up, the MKIII is smaller, sleeker, and more affordable, while maintaining some very impressive specs and features. Priced at $1,090 on a strap and $1,240 on a bracelet, the German-made Maya MKIII is available in black, blue, and Sealab green. The latter, featured in this review, is not only different in color but in dial and bezel insert design as well, making it an outlier in the collection. $1090 Hands-On with the Dievas Maya MKIII Case Matte Stainless Steel w/ Clear DLC Movement Sellita SW-200 Dial Metallic Green Sandwich Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Bracelet Water Resistance ...

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Hands-On with the Isotope Old Radium Bronze Tobacco Worn & Wound
Isotope Old Radium Bronze Tobacco Jan 24, 2023

Hands-On with the Isotope Old Radium Bronze Tobacco

Isotope is a British watch brand that we’ve covered fairly extensively on Worn & Wound. They take a unique approach to watch design that incorporates a signature shape (the lacrima, resembling a teardrop) and frequently makes use of vibrant color. Their range of HydriumX divers are a lot of fun and have proven to be fan favorites, and I reviewed their GMT back in March of 2021. The brand lives and dies by their playful designs: some resonate strongly, but others simply may not strike a chord. That’s perfectly OK, though. It’s the cost of doing things your own way, and a natural side effect of operating within a design language that doesn’t rely too much on watch historical design tropes. So I was curious to check out one of their latest releases, the Old Radium Bronze Tobacco. The Old Radium line is Isotope’s take on a pilot’s watch, a genre that is well understood in the broader consciousness of watch collectors, and notably challenging to iterate on. Many brands issue pilot’s watches that effectively look the same, and only the most hardcore connoisseurs will pick out the seemingly smallest differences in dial layout, case shape, and so forth. Isotope’s approach with the Old Radium is actually quite similar to what they’re doing with dive watches via the HydriumX line: taking the frame of something common, and filling it with something whimsical.  $1111 Hands-On with the Isotope Old Radium Bronze Tobacco Case Bronze Movement Landeron Automatic Dial Bro...

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HANDS-ON: The new IWC Portofino collection delivers classical sophistication in spades Time+Tide
Casio nally Jan 23, 2023

HANDS-ON: The new IWC Portofino collection delivers classical sophistication in spades

IWC usually brings to mind the stern, sporty range of military-inspired pilot’s watches, and occasionally the suave dressiness of one of their Portugeisers. Often under-appreciated is the Portofino collection - a group of watches which pay homage to one of the most classic eras in watchmaking history. With elegance and detail-oriented excellence in spades, the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new IWC Portofino collection delivers classical sophistication in spades appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hands-On with the Vario Versa Worn & Wound
Jan 18, 2023

Hands-On with the Vario Versa

Vario is a Singapore-based watch brand founded in 2016. Over the years, they have launched several watches with varying aesthetics though mostly drawing on historical watches as inspiration, such as their rugged 1918 Trench model. Their most recent model, the Versa, also pulls from the past, taking its inspirations from the Streamline/Art Deco era, but mixes in a reversible design for a watch that is both dual-time and dual-faced. A first, to our recollection, in the micro-brand space, the Versa is a surprising release that manages to be clever, while also quite affordable. Apart from the functionality, the Versa is also a rare, small-scale rectangular dress offering from a micro brand. Launched in three versions, the Versa is $428 and powered by not one, but two quartz calibers. For this hands-on, we’ll be taking a look at the blue variety. $428 Hands-On with the Vario Versa Case Stainless Steel Movement 2 x Ronda Slimtech 1062 Dial Silver/Blue Lume NA Lens 2 x Flat Sapphire Strap Black Leather Water Resistance 5 ATM Dimensions 26 x 40mm Thickness 18mm Lug Width 20mm Crown 2 x Push-pull Warranty Yes Price $428 Notable Specs and Features The Versa is a watch defined by a novel and enjoyable feature: it’s essentially two watches in one. The watch head consists of two main components, a frame, and a watch module. The module is created with two slim, small quartz watches mounted back to back, dials facing out, and crowns at twelve. The module is attached to the frame via ...

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Hands-On: Hublot Classic Fusion Original SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Jan 12, 2023

Hands-On: Hublot Classic Fusion Original

One of the “it” watches of the 1980s, Hublot’s porthole-inspired watch on a rubber strap has been revived. Forty-two years since the brand made its debut with the iconoclastic hublot watch – it was the first watch to combine a gold case and rubber strap – the brand is paying tribute to its founder Carlo Crocco with a new range modelled on the original design. Taking after the original in look and feel, the Classic Fusion Original collection comprises three sizes, each available in three material configurations. Initial thoughts Almost minimalist in its design, the Classic Fusion Original is simpler and sleeker than the typical Hublot. It is relatively compact and thin in all three sizes – the largest model is 10 mm high – giving it a surprisingly elegant profile on the wrist. The no-frills design is strongly appealing, except for the date window, which isn’t too prominent but still unnecessary. And I would have gone even further in the minimalist direction by doing away with the seconds hand. That said, both the date and seconds are part of the original 1980 design. Despite the clean styling, the watch is instantly recognisable as a Hublot. In fact, the Classic Fusion Original is arguably more distinctively Hublot than the some of the brand’s other models, which occasionally resemble offerings from Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille. Starting at around US$8,000 in titanium with an automatic movement (the smallest, 33 mm versions are all quartz), the Cl...

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Hands-On: TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph “60th Anniversary” SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph “60th Anniversary” Jan 12, 2023

Hands-On: TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph “60th Anniversary”

Jack Heuer introduced the Carrera in 1963 as a chronograph for race-car drivers. No frills yet stylish design, the Carrera was perfect blend of form and function. Sixty years on TAG Heuer is celebrating its signature chronograph with a faithful revival, the Carrera Chronograph “60th Anniversary”, the first in a series of commemorative models that will be launched over the year – but it will be the only vintage remake amongst the commemorative editions. Presented in the modern-day Carrera case of 39 mm, it is a near-identical replica of the classic Carrera ref. 2447 SN with its distinctive “panda” dial. While it incorporates the key elements of the original, the brand has updated the watch with its in-house automatic movement and of course scaled up the design to match. Initial thoughts I was struck by its understated styling of the Carrera Chronograph “60th Anniversary”. It’s a remake that doesn’t try to do too much but performs well. The original was clearly a functional sports chronograph but still elegant, something that this remake inherits. And the simplicity of the original ensures that it doesn’t look dated. Admittedly, this is not exactly novel since TAG Heuer already released the remake of the ref. 2447S with an all-silver dial in 2020. But the “panda” dial is undoubtedly more appealing. It’s perfect homage to the 1960s and the brand’s history in motor racing. The dial gets the details right, including the “Heuer” logo, brushed ...

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Hands-On: TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronometer SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronometer LVMH Jan 11, 2023

Hands-On: TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronometer

LVMH Watch Week, the year’s first significant watch fair, just kicked off in Singapore. In some ways a warmup for Watches & Wonders in March – the biggest watch fair of the year – the LVMH Watch Week is where the watchmakers owned by the French group show off their wares. Amongst them is TAG Heuer, which has revived one of its less-known racing chronographs from the 1970s but in a thoroughly modern style. The Monza Flyback Chronometer is a flyback chronograph featuring an open-worked dial and a 42 mm carbon composite case. Initial thoughts Perhaps the most aggressively modern chronograph in TAG Heuer’s current line-up, the new Monza liberally reinterprets the 1970s original. While the vintage Monza is not famous as the Carrera or Monaco, it is interesting in several respects, including the fact that it was the first serially-produced Heuer to sport a black-coated case. The carbon case and open-worked, asymmetrical dial show another face of TAG Heuer, but one that still fits with its motorsports-chronograph heritage. Certainly a TAG Heuer that is different, the Monza has clearly been conceived to cater to contemporary tastes, which is a good thing given that TAG Heuer already has an ample offering of faithful vintage remakes. But the new Monza comes with a caveat, a steep price. Coming in at US$13,500, the Monza costs double the Autavia Flyback Chronograph that has the same movement but a no-frills steel case. Even considering the carbon composite case and fanc...

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Up Close: Breguet Reine de Naples 9835 and 9838 “Expanding Hands” SJX Watches
Breguet Reine de Naples 9835 Jan 11, 2023

Up Close: Breguet Reine de Naples 9835 and 9838 “Expanding Hands”

Even though Breguet is not a name that instantly comes to mind when it comes to ladies’ watches, the brand makes one of the most distinctive female watches on the market today. Late last year Breguet debuted perhaps its most ladies watch in some time: the Reine de Naples 9835 and 9838 that both possess a quirky yet graceful complication inspired by “expanding hands” pocket watches from the 18th century. Immediately recognisable thanks to its distinctive egg-shaped case, the Reine de Naples was inspired by similarly-ovoid bracelet watch delivered in 1812 to Caroline Bonaparte, Queen of Naples and the younger sister of Napoleon. Reine de Naples – literally “Queen of Naples” – remains the brand’s signature watch for ladies, though the line-up has grown to encompass many iterations over the years. Admittedly, the models are numerous enough that few leave a lasting impression, but the “expanding hands” allow the new duo to easily stand out. Initial thoughts I was impressed when I first laid eyes on the new Reine de Naples. Neither is a typical ladies’ timepieces that lazily relies only on a bejewelled case to stand out. Both models have a striking, elegant aesthetic that’s slightly more modern than expected from Breguet but still possessed of enough intricate detail. Though seemingly simple at the glance, the new Reine de Naples has a clever and unusual hour display with “expanding hands”. The simplicity of the time display combined with the n...

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Grand Seiko Introduces the Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary SBGH311 and SBGR325 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Jan 10, 2023

Grand Seiko Introduces the Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary SBGH311 and SBGR325

When Grand Seiko (GS) made its return in 1998, the inaugural SBGR001 model was powered by the 9S55, the first modern-day GS calibre. Now the brand is marking the 25th anniversary of the 9S movement family with a pair of limited editions. The Heritage Collection Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary Hi-Beat 36000 SBGH311 and the Heritage Collection Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary SBGR325. The Hi-Beat SBGH311 has a patterned dial, while the more affordable SBGR325 has a dial with a brushed finish. Both are modelled on the original model of 1998 and sport the same 37 mm case. SBGH311 (left) and SBGR325 Initial thoughts With their 37 mm cases and clean styling, the new 9S pair hark back to the GS watches made from the late 1990s to mid 2000s. That is unsurprising since they are meant to commemorate the first model with the 9S movement, which made its debut in 1998. The Hi-Beat SBGH311 does have a fancier pattern dial, but one that is relatively subtle in its shades-of-grey texture. As a result, they will appeal to anyone who wants a smaller, simpler GS watch. Another upside of the relatively simpler execution are the prices, which place the pair amongst the most affordable self-winding GS watches. The SBGH311 is US$6,600 and the SBGR325 about 20% less. SBGR325 Old-school size The SBGH311 has a textured dial in silvery grey inspired by clouds that’s matched with a blued-steel seconds hand. And the “GS” emblem is gilded in a nod to the fact that this is an anniversary edition. Not...

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HANDS-ON: The Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono offers a sportier version on an integrated rubber strap Time+Tide
Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Dec 31, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono offers a sportier version on an integrated rubber strap

With the heat from integrated-bracelet sports watches showing no signs of cooling off, more and more brands are getting into the game. And in some cases, they’re resurrecting those bold designs from their own back catalogues, which is exactly what Chopard did in 2019, when it released the Alpine Eagle to great fanfare. The Alpine … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono offers a sportier version on an integrated rubber strap appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The three watches Ricardo wore most in 2022 – Grand Seiko, MoonSwatch and Tudor Time+Tide
Grand Seiko MoonSwatch Dec 29, 2022

The three watches Ricardo wore most in 2022 – Grand Seiko, MoonSwatch and Tudor

This will go down as the year that completely changed my life. From growing my passion for watches. To balancing life as a writer and father. All while trying to find myself as a collector. I’ll probably look back at it all in amazement. If simply for the fact that I didn’t throw my hands … ContinuedThe post The three watches Ricardo wore most in 2022 – Grand Seiko, MoonSwatch and Tudor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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