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Results for The COMEX Submariner Story

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The COMEX Submariner Story Rolex

French saturation-diving company COMEX (1961) and Rolex partnership 1967 onward. Drove the joint Rolex/Doxa invention of the Helium Escape Valve.

Tudor Black Bay Pro Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Aug 19, 2025

Tudor Black Bay Pro Review

At Watches & Wonders 2025, Tudor expanded its existing catalog to address some fan requests as well as to reset some long neglected collections. One release that does both is the new Black Bay Pro with a silver opaline dial. This is a configuration long requested from enthusiasts, and Tudor did the idea justice by getting the small details right. This is more than a mere dial swap, even if the underlying platform remains largely the same. This is the kind of methodical evolution we’ve come to expect from Tudor, though in some ways, the new Black Bay Pro plays things a little too safe.  Let’s take a quick look back at Tudor’s recent history with the GMT complication to set some context for the newest Black Bay Pro, because - while this configuration has been highly requested - as far as fan requests go, this watch has one glaring omission. Tudor released the Black Bay GMT back in 2018 with a black dial and a throwback red-and-blue aluminum bezel. As popular as the watch was right off the bat, the size made it a tough pill to swallow for some, particularly the thickness of the case paired with the relatively flat sidewall.  Tudor Black Bay Pro Case Tudor partially addressed this with the release of the first Black Bay Pro in 2022 in a 39mm steel case. The watch also played up ties to the Rolex Explorer II with a fixed steel bezel. It was an unexpected release but it hit many of the right notes, and it made the substantial thickness a bit easier to stomach. It wor...

Louis Erard Makes Hand Engraving Affordable SJX Watches
Louis Erard Makes Hand Engraving Affordable Aug 19, 2025

Louis Erard Makes Hand Engraving Affordable

Louis Erard’s niche is making either watchmakers or techniques affordable – the Gravée Main is hand engraving priced accessibly. The watch is entirely engraved by hand, across the bezel, case, crown, and buckle, with a classical leaf motif by Maksym Shavlak, a watchmaker and engraver from Ukraine. The resulting look is a blend of Gothic and Baroque, but the underlying watch retains the usual dimensions and movement of Louis Erard, while the dial is glossy black lacquer that evokes fired enamel. Initial thoughts I appreciate Louis Erard’s consistent focus on making interesting names or techniques affordable; its recent Damascus steel regulator being an example. Some micro-brands or one-man shops do the same for slightly less, particularly for certain decorative techniques, but without the finesse of Louis Erard. A good deal of credit for this goes to Manuel Emch, who oversees Louis Erard and lends his eye to the brand’s creations. The Gravée Main sits squarely in the sweet spot where Louis Erard excels. Admittedly, the ornate look is not for everyone, some might even find it tacky. But I like it; the look is appealing and the execution shows attention to detail. The tone-on-tone lacquered dial is a smart complement to the elaborate case. And that attention to detail is also evident in the engraving, which continues onto both the crown and buckle, which are sometimes overlooked. Price-wise the Gravée Main is pricier than the typical Louis Erard limited edition, bu...

A History and Guide – How to Use a Dive Bezel Worn & Wound
Aug 18, 2025

A History and Guide – How to Use a Dive Bezel

John Scott Haldane had a problem. Britain’s Royal Navy had commissioned the Scottish physiologist to find a solution for a unique problem facing their divers: decompression. Known since the mid-19th century, decompression sickness (DCS) posed a serious risk for divers and laborers working in pressurized environments, such as caissons. It was his job to develop a set of decompression tables for safe diving operations. It boils down to how gases act under pressure. When breathing a gas mixture at depth - for the sake of simplicity, we will say compressed air, or approximately 78% nitrogen and 21% oxygen, with the rest being inert gases - the oxygen is used up by the body, and the nitrogen is absorbed into the bloodstream. This build-up will dissolve as it is effectively off-gassed, as it does when each of us breathes here on the surface. Enter pressure. Should a diver undergo a rapid change in pressure, such as by ascending too quickly, the nitrogen will separate from the blood and form bubbles in the tissues and joints. The resulting pain has a habit of contorting its victims, giving DCS its more readily-known nickname of “the bends.” John Scott Haldane had a problem. Britain’s Royal Navy had commissioned the Scottish physiologist to find a solution for a unique problem facing their divers: decompression. Known since the mid-19th century, decompression sickness (DCS) posed a serious risk for divers and laborers working in pressurized environments, such as caisso...

My Favorite Datejust Is A 1601 No-Lume Lavender Dial Fratello
Aug 18, 2025

My Favorite Datejust Is A 1601 No-Lume Lavender Dial

Choosing my favorite Datejust wasn’t a simple exercise. From 2021 through most of 2023, I acquired several vintage references. Each one was chosen for a reason. Hard-to-find dials combined with sharp cases and atypical bezels were my game. Two years later, these Datejust models remain as regular options in my wearing rotation. They’re fantastic, fit […] Visit My Favorite Datejust Is A 1601 No-Lume Lavender Dial to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 Vs. Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 Fratello
Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 Good Aug 17, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 Vs. Chopard Alpine Eagle 41

Good morning and welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. Last week, we had a surprising matchup between two titanium high-beat chronographs that ended up in a tie. This week, we’re curious to see what happens when we put two stainless steel integrated bracelet reinterpretations up against each other. In 2023, IWC brought back the Ingenieur, […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 Vs. Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 to read the full article.

New: Panerai Submersible Marina Militare PAM01697 & PAM01698 Carbotech™ Deployant
Panerai Submersible Marina Militare PAM01697 Aug 16, 2025

New: Panerai Submersible Marina Militare PAM01697 & PAM01698 Carbotech™

Panerai’s Submersible Marina Militare PAM01697 and PAM01698 are tactical evolutions of the brand’s dive watch lineage, paying tribute to the Italian Navy’s aviation division (Aviazione Navale). Both models feature green-grained dials, radar-style subdials, and engraved casebacks, but diverge in material execution-one in brushed steel, the other in Panerai’s proprietary Carbotech™.

eBay Finds: Another Cool Vintage LED, a Gorgeous Grand Seiko, and an Art Deco Bulova Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Aug 15, 2025

eBay Finds: Another Cool Vintage LED, a Gorgeous Grand Seiko, and an Art Deco Bulova

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Shreve & Co LED  Another week, another cool vintage LED! I honestly don’t know why there are so many of these coming out of the woodwork, but I’m glad they are. This one is a vintage Shreve & Co. with a nice space-age chunky look. The 36.5mm steel case is in great shape with sharp edges and unpolished. The bracelet is original and complements the watch perfectly. The display works and the watch runs as it should. Nice 1970’s goodness from a seldom seen brand. View auction here Vintage Grand Seiko 6146-8000  We have a real winner here, a vintage Grand Seiko 6146-8000 dress watch. This 61GS epitomizes Grand Seiko’s Grammar of Design aesthetic. The broad planes, sharp edges and mix of brushed and polished finishes is simply sublime. The silver dial is clean and has the classic simple stick markers and a day/date window at 3 o’clock. The dauphine hands have gorgeous bevels, a testament to the precise craftsmanship of the Grand Seiko line. The 6146 movement is hi-beat, pulsing at 36000 beats per hour. The deeply grooved crown is original and signed with the GS logo as it should. The gold GS caseback medallion is in really nice condition as well. Really a beautiful piece here. Vie...

Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Watches Under €500 From Small Brands Fratello
Aug 15, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Watches Under €500 From Small Brands

Another Friday, another list! This week, it’s time for the second installment of our series on affordable watches. Last week, we discussed our favorite mechanical watches under €500 from big brands. This second article focuses on the best watches for under €500 from small brands. Call them independents or microbrands, you get the idea. The […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Watches Under €500 From Small Brands to read the full article.

Hands On: De Bethune DB25 Monopusher Chronograph SJX Watches
De Bethune DB25 Monopusher Chronograph De Aug 15, 2025

Hands On: De Bethune DB25 Monopusher Chronograph

De Bethune once again has a single-button chronograph to its line-up with the compact DB25 Monopusher Chronograph. Styled after the DB8 from the brand’s early years, the DB25 chronograph has a smaller case but a larger, more refined movement. Importantly, it is most accessible chronographs from the brand in recent memory, both in size and price. Initial Thoughts I hold De Bethune in high regard for its technical ambition and an idiosyncratic design language that blends aesthetic codes from the 18th and 23rd centuries. The distinctive aesthetics were largely the brainchild of cofounder Davide Zanetta, who unfortunately departed the brand several years ago. Fortunately, however, both traits are alive and well in the DB25 Monopusher Chronograph. For several years the brand lacked a conventional chronograph, and I see the new DB25 as the brand’s long-term solution to that problem. Likely shaped by feedback on the recent DB Eight, the DB25 Monopusher has everything it needs to be a staple of the brand’s line-up – moderate sizing, good looks, and complementary calibre. Though based on the brand’s prior chronograph movements, the DB3000 inside the DB25 is interesting in several respects. For one, it retains the oscillating pinion found in the long-ago DB1. The oscillating pinion isn’t well regarded by collectors, seen as less advanced than a vertical clutch and without the theatre of a horizontal coupling. It is possible to make a handsome chronograph with an oscillat...

Selten and Collector Community Watch Ho and Co. Team Up for a New Collaboration in Tahitian Mother of Pearl Worn & Wound
Aug 14, 2025

Selten and Collector Community Watch Ho and Co. Team Up for a New Collaboration in Tahitian Mother of Pearl

Selten impressed me earlier this year with the release of their Grand Feu Enamel series, which features deeply engraved and colorful dials made in a traditional enamelling process. Artistic, craft forward dials made from interesting materials are their stock in trade, so it’s no surprise that they seem to be flourishing at this particular moment, when there’s a real hunger among collectors for watches that offer something a little more daring. As a certified mother of pearl addict (DM me if you need help finding a support group in your area) their latest release, a collaboration with the Hong Kong based watch collecting community Watch Ho & Co caught my eye. The Jui 聚 (which translate to “to meet, to gather”) features a dramatic Tahitian mother of pearl dial that is CNC engraved to form an elaborate and complex pattern. According to Selten, the design is inspired by ancient China, and the pattern itself is lifted from a motif often used in body armor. Over time, these shapes came to symbolize strength and security, which the brand is now pitching as a testament to the bonds formed within the watch community. This of course is a guiding principle that makes a lot of sense given the collaboration with a community of watch collectors. It’s underscored by the ethos of Watch Ho & Co with an engraving on the caseback reading “Good Vibes Only.”  I’ll be honest, I’ve seen a lot of watches over the years with dials featuring abstract or obscure design motifs th...

31 Crazy Unique Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Aug 14, 2025

31 Crazy Unique Watches

Generally speaking, most watch consumers tend to prefer watch designs that are - for lack of a better term - approachable, the kind of style that can be worn every day without drawing an undue amount of attention. Class is often associated with being understated, after all. For most enthusiasts, design, craftsmanship, mechanical complexity, and value for dollar are all subjectively weighed in an effort to determine the most appropriate timepiece decision. Naturally, the result is that the watch industry focuses a great deal of its effort on  practical designs intended to please a large percentage of the population in an ultimate effort to sell. Outliers and more novel designs are considered risky and are often left behind in the race for mass-market appeal. But what if, some independent watchmakers ask, you’ve simply had enough of brands cutting-and-pasting each other’s designs? We’ve all noted, “That’s more or less a Rolex Submariner,” one too many times when seeing the latest "new" piece. Let's say that sometimes you may want something different and maybe even a little bit crazy. And for the sake of argument, and for a more comprehensive list, let's also say you have a nice chunk of money to spend. Sure, you could take your cash and make an informed, reasonable decision to keep on fitting in with all the other watch nerds on your Instagram feed, but this list is for enthusiasts interested in the road less traveled, searching for different, interesti...

Five Underrated Watches Under $5,000 Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay P01 It Aug 14, 2025

Five Underrated Watches Under $5,000

There’s a universal appeal to the idea of the hidden gem. Whether it’s a watch, a movie, or a vacation destination, we all enjoy reveling in the underrated to some extent. It’s part of that sense of discovery that draws us to an enthusiast pursuit in the first place. As the watch world, and enthusiasm around the hobby grows, it gets harder to identify watches that are truly underrated – every watch seems to have its moment in the sun.  We thought it would be fun to identify a handful of watches that feel genuinely underrated at this particular moment, all under $5,000. Let us know your picks in the comments!  Zach Kazan – Tudor Black Bay P01 It was surprisingly challenging for me to think of the right underrated watch to discuss here. One of the problems with the way we talk about watches in 2025 is that everything, from the most mundane, black dialed diver, to highly experimental haute horlology, is heaped with praise. It’s not that the praise isn’t always warranted – there are a lot of great watches out there – but the inverse of this question, the most overrated watches on the market, would probably be a little easier to respond to. But, in the interest of keeping things positive, we thought, for now, we’d try to shine a light on some watches that don’t get enough attention.  Usually when we’re creating a group oriented list like this, my mind immediately goes to the independents. You could say I’m always trying to highlight the underrated s...

Formex Introduces a 41mm Essence with a New Dial and Some New Features Worn & Wound
Formex Introduces Aug 14, 2025

Formex Introduces a 41mm Essence with a New Dial and Some New Features

Formex has a new watch, and, despite the name, it has absolutely nothing to do with the classic Hanna-Barbera character, or his eponymous talk show, Space Ghost Coast to Coast. Still, the Formex Essence “Space Ghost,” the latest addition to Formex’s seemingly ever-expanding Essence collection, is here, and brings a new dimension, a new dial, and some impressive new quality of life improvements to the incredibly popular line of everyday sports watches. The biggest headline here is that the new “Space Ghost” comes in at 41mm across, a new dimension for the Formex Essence, falling squarely between established 39mm and 43mm options.The new Essence is more than a hastily resized version of either of these pre-existing models though. The watch - which is powered by the same Sellita SW200-1 COSC-certified movement as its larger and smaller siblings - though unmistakably an Essence, entirely reworks the proportions of the model. The watch is still thin, at 10.6mm, and compact, with a 46.5mm lug-to-lug. It also keeps the 22mm lug width of the 43mm Essence, so most of their existing strap line will be compatible with the new watch. Two piece straps are all compatible with Formex’s existing carbon fiber deployment clasp with integrated, on-the-fly micro-adjust, but the real story on the wrist is the revised bracelet design. The new bracelet hosts a bunch of small upgrades, including new screws that eliminate the need for Loctite or any equivalents, but the most notice...