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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

History, “Sprezzatura,” and Finding Balance: A Conversation with Parmigiani Fleurier CEO Guido Terreni Worn & Wound
Parmigiani Fleurier CEO Guido Terreni Writing Jun 20, 2024

History, “Sprezzatura,” and Finding Balance: A Conversation with Parmigiani Fleurier CEO Guido Terreni

Writing about watches is, often, an exercise in confirming and combatting preconceived ideas. Snap judgments are easy to form without thinking them through, and early opinions can be hard to shake, so the biggest challenges for anyone in this industry are parsing one’s own opinions, and learning how to look past them to evaluate the watches that come across our desks fairly. Most watches only require confronting this challenge in a cursory sense, but the best watches force you to face it head-on. Like many watches in the latter category, the new Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph required me to do some serious thinking. Thankfully, I had the opportunity to sit down with Guido Terreni, the CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier, to talk about the brand, their watches, and why I can’t get Parmigiani Fleurier off my mind. Guido Terreni, Parmigiani Fleurier CEO Parmigiani Fleurier has spent much of the last few years absolutely knocking the proverbial ball out of the park. Since Terreni’s hiring in 2021, the brand’s been on a heater, releasing hit after hit, and building a new identity almost from scratch, rebuilding and simplifying the collection to create a new identity for the nearly 30-year-old brand. “When I joined the company, I understood that the brand needed direction and style, and what was in the pipeline was not building the brand as I thought it should. So I blocked everything and we started working from scratch on a white piece of paper - not perfectl...

Singer Reimagined Expands their 1969 Collection Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Carrera Jun 20, 2024

Singer Reimagined Expands their 1969 Collection

There is almost no end to watches inspired by motorsport, but very few watches take that inspiration and do anything truly unique with it. Just yesterday, we brought you news of a new TAG Heuer Carrera that, in my opinion, is something of a by-the-numbers collaboration between an automaker and a luxury watch brand. It has design notes that convey a watch that’s sporty and modern, the “Porsche” wordmark prominently featured on the case itself, and it’s a Carrera, a collection that is naturally imbued with racing history. I’ve written about a lot of watches that say “Porsche” on them in one way or another, but it’s honestly difficult to tell them apart after a while. Singer Reimagined takes an entirely different approach.  The brand itself is part of the Singer Group, which rose to prominence with their bespoke restorations of vintage Porsche 911s. What Singer brings to the table is a very unique and highly specialized perspective. You might love it or hate it, but they don’t suffer from the same problems that inevitably plague large luxury watch brands, namely casting an impossibly wide net, resulting in products that, even when ostensibly “niche,” have a certain generic quality to them. Being intrinsically connected to the car world, it’s no surprise that Singer only makes chronographs. Expanding on the very idea of the chronograph in an adventurous way is part of what makes Singer Reimagined exciting. Their chronographs use unconventional movement...

Fratello Talks: Why Everyone Loves Seiko Watches Fratello
Seiko Watches Hello there Jun 20, 2024

Fratello Talks: Why Everyone Loves Seiko Watches

Hello there, and welcome to another episode of Fratello Talks. This week, Thomas, Lex, and Nacho discuss Seiko watches. A Seiko is a staple of most watch enthusiasts’ collections, whether it’s a first-ever mechanical watch or an inexpensive curiosity, a vintage rarity in museum-worthy condition, or anything in between. And though there will certainly be […] Visit Fratello Talks: Why Everyone Loves Seiko Watches to read the full article.

Longines Conquest 38mm Review Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Jun 19, 2024

Longines Conquest 38mm Review

Longines has just revamped its Conquest line of watches – the modern Conquest line – by injecting into it a new sense of color, and a not-so-novel, but nonetheless appreciated, approach to sizing. When it comes to color, the brand unveiled three pastel dial shades in its 34mm variants within the Conquest lineup. But other big news is the addition of a 38mm sizing where previously you were left only to be able to choose 41mm at the “large” end of the spectrum. While the eye-catching pastel dials in blue, pink, and light green certainly took much of the release spotlight around the new Conquests, they only come in 34mm sizing and I can’t help but think that the less flashy dials in the new 38mm format is the real show-stealer here. We say this all the time, but it’s becoming increasingly clear that 38mm is that sweet spot for watch diameters. More and more brands are dabbling in the 37-38mm range as well. I wrote about the Zenith Defy Revival A3648 (in my debut article here at Teddy no less) which clocks in at 37mm. Then we have the Tudor Black Bay 54, and of course the fan-favorite Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38 just to name a few.  In short, 38mm is where it’s at, as is the simple time and date watch format in steel on a bracelet. Just look at how popular the Rolex Oyster Perpetual line is as a bare bones steel sports watch. Okay, that watch has no date, but it does bear a visual resemblance to these new Conquest models. I could just as easily throw the Dat...

Introducing – MeisterSinger Releases Two Vibrant Unomat Limited Editions Monochrome
MeisterSinger Jun 18, 2024

Introducing – MeisterSinger Releases Two Vibrant Unomat Limited Editions

MeisterSinger hardly needs an introduction. This award-winning German brand is renowned for its distinctive single-hand time display design, which makes it instantly recognizable. The latest additions to the MeisterSinger lineup are blacked-out versions of the robust and solidly built Unomat series, featuring generous splashes of colour – with a twist. The two new Unomat watches […]

Introducing: Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 Night Ops For Collective Fratello
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 Jun 18, 2024

Introducing: Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 Night Ops For Collective

Our friends at Collective Horology are no strangers to awesome collab releases. The team seems to possess the diplomatic skills required to push some of the greatest watchmakers to do things outside of their usual scope. In the case of Armin Strom, a brand that doesn’t shy away from combining tradition with radical new ideas […] Visit Introducing: Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 Night Ops For Collective to read the full article.

Collective and Armin Strom are Back with a Second LE Worn & Wound
Armin Strom are Back Jun 18, 2024

Collective and Armin Strom are Back with a Second LE

One of the things we love about independent watchmaking is the ability for a brand to move swiftly on a project based on feedback from their clients, collaborators, and the watch world writ large. A new release from Collective and Armin Strom is a great example of how one good idea can quickly beget another, and in the grand scheme of things it really doesn’t even take that long. Not even two years ago, Collective and Armin Strom released the P.03 Gravity Equal Force, a creative take on one of Armin Strom’s signature designs. The concept behind the original release was to make this bit of high end watchmaking into something truly tactical, and its aesthetic was inspired by apparel, packs, and EDC tools in its finishing, color, and overall vibe. This new release, the P.03 “Night Ops,” takes that idea a step further, and does what arguably should have been done the first time around: blacking out the case.  It seems obvious, right? When you think “tactical” in watchmaking, you probably think “black,” at least to some extent. I have to say, though, that until I heard Collective and Armin Strom were making this new edition, the thought never actually crossed my mind that the original should have been black. I think that speaks to the genuine novelty of that first watch. It’s so rare for a haute horlogerie brand like Armin Strom to dabble in EDC inspiration that the first try really sold me. The new Night Ops variant feels like a more fully realized version o...

Fratello On Air: Collecting Watches - Will We Ever Stop? Fratello
Jun 18, 2024

Fratello On Air: Collecting Watches - Will We Ever Stop?

This week, Fratello On Air returns with an episode about collecting watches and whether we’ll ever stop. It’s a good question that we lightly debate because we feel similarly. The watch world is almost endless, providing us with nearly infinite opportunities to learn and enjoy. Our watch content starts 15 minutes into the show. Both […] Visit Fratello On Air: Collecting Watches - Will We Ever Stop? to read the full article.

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Escale Métiers d’Art “Cabinet Of Wonders” SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Escale Métiers d’Art “Cabinet Jun 17, 2024

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Escale Métiers d’Art “Cabinet Of Wonders”

The recent debut of the Escale Time-Only was actually the second instalment of the design’s revival. Earlier this year, Louis Vuitton presented the Escale Métiers d’Art “Cabinet Of Wonders”, also time-only but with exceptionally elaborate dials decorated in a variety of artisanal crafts – all executed in-house at La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the brand’s Geneva manufacture. The “cabinet” is a trio of watches with dials featuring Asian motifs inspired by a collection of tsuba, or Japanese sword guards, owned by Gaston-Louis Vuitton, the grandson of Louis Vuitton. Ranging from enamelling to marquetry to hammering, the dial decoration is intricate and three-dimensional. From left: Koi’s Garden, Dragon’s Cloud, and Snake’s Jungle Initial thoughts Like the Voyager Flying Tourbillon Plique-à-Jour, the Cabinet of Wonders is a tangible realisation of LFT’s swift buildup of an in-house métiers d’art workshop that encompasses enamelling, engraving, and guilloche. The métiers d’art workshop is just one facet of Louis Vuitton’s ambitious, wide-ranging development of its watchmaking division, a project that is still a work in progress but advancing at a pace rapid enough that it will go far quickly. The dials are lavish, complex, and finely executed. Although they are each decorated with a variety of techniques, the different textures, colours, and styles complement each other perfectly. The quality of the work is comparable to that of Van Cleef & Arpe...

Baltic Hermetique Tourer Review Two Broke Watch Snobs
Baltic Hermetique Tourer Review Jun 17, 2024

Baltic Hermetique Tourer Review

The Hermetique is Baltic’s take on a field watch. I see it as sorta dress-watch-adjacent-with-field-aspirations. I was torn between the Hermetique and the Titanium Aquascaphe but after seeing both in person I knew the Hermetique was the correct choice for reasons we’ll get into here in a bit. The visit to Baltic’s showroom was a good one though and entirely worth it if you’re nearby. They have a great selection of straps on hand so you can get the exact look and fit you’d prefer when you purchase your watch. The showroom had the expected melange of diving, automotive, and vaguely aeronautical accouterment spread throughout. Overall it was a very pleasant and low-pressure sales experience for me.

Buying A Watch As A Gift - What Would You Get? Fratello
Jun 16, 2024

Buying A Watch As A Gift - What Would You Get?

Buying a watch for oneself is often a big decision and not necessarily made quickly. I don’t know about you, but I have often agonized over a purchase. I’ve read reviews, researched people’s impressions of a watch through forums, and done about as much reading as one could without becoming obsessive. Buying a watch as […] Visit Buying A Watch As A Gift - What Would You Get? to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay 58 In Blue Vs. Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SJE119 Fratello
Tudor Black Bay 58 Jun 16, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay 58 In Blue Vs. Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SJE119

Welcome to a new Sunday Morning Showdown. Whereas last week’s contestants were much higher upmarket, this week, we’re putting two more common, mid-tier divers up against each other. The Tudor Black Bay 58 in blue was introduced about four years ago. Ever since then, it has been a very popular vintage-inspired dive watch. But how […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay 58 In Blue Vs. Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SJE119 to read the full article.

New: Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph ‘La Gara’ dial Deployant
Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Jun 15, 2024

New: Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph ‘La Gara’ dial

The Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph "La Gara Dial" is a classic design and an elegant addition to the Mille Miglia collection. For those who appreciate the romance of the open road and the tick of a classic motorsports chronograph, the "La Gara Dial" is a fitting tribute to the legacy of the Mille Miglia race. Perhaps a nice memorabilia particularly for participants of the race. But for regular watch fans, the watch may appear less competitive in its price category, primarily dragged down by its choice of movement.

De Bethune Launches Two New DB Eight References Worn & Wound
De Bethune Launches Two New DB Jun 14, 2024

De Bethune Launches Two New DB Eight References

A little over a year on from the release of the DB Eight, De Bethune is following up the mono-usher chronograph with two new variants, each in gold, and each of which offers a welcome look back at the early days of the brand.  De Bethune is a brand well-versed in the avant-garde. The name alone tends to conjure images of remarkably blue tourbillons with spring-loaded lugs, and other sci-fi-esque watches. In the last few years, De Bethune has become well known for pushing the boundaries of watchmaking in both a technical and aesthetic sense - they even sent a watch to (near) space on the wrist of Michael Strahan. If you’re only familiar with De Bethune thanks to watches like the DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon or the DB28GS Yellow Submarine, looking back at the early days of De Bethune might come with a bit of a surprise. Early De Bethunes stood out not because of any outrageous architecture or wild case finishing, but rather thanks to a refined - and very traditional - look, backed up by the technical prowess of Denis Flageollet, the brand’s founder. The DB8 was one of these early, very traditional watches. Though still identifiable as a De Bethune thanks to its bullet lugs and three-part case, the DB8 was (in most senses) a very traditional take on the concept of a mono-pusher chronograph dress watch. The new DB Eight is a fitting follow up to that watch, holding on to much of the original’s concept and charm, but with each and every detail refined and update...

Fratello’s Top 5 Recently Released Affordable Dive Watches - Featuring Seiko, Formex, Oris, And More Fratello
Formex Oris Jun 14, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Recently Released Affordable Dive Watches - Featuring Seiko, Formex, Oris, And More

Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we’re looking at some affordable dive watches. It’s been a while since we made a list of divers that don’t break the bank. Knowing that it’s the most popular watch category, it only makes sense to look at some of the latest releases, especially since we see new […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Recently Released Affordable Dive Watches - Featuring Seiko, Formex, Oris, And More to read the full article.

Taking A Sip Of Three Alluring New Seiko Presage Cocktail GMT Watches Fratello
Seiko Presage Cocktail GMT Watches Jun 14, 2024

Taking A Sip Of Three Alluring New Seiko Presage Cocktail GMT Watches

Seiko serves three new cocktail-inspired watches, and I am slightly concerned that going hands-on with all of them at once will lead to delirium. The new Seiko Presage Cocktail GMT watches come in outspoken “flavors.” There’s the SSK037 Skydiving in refreshing light blue, the whiskey-inspired SSK039 Rusty Nail, and the fruity SSK041 Acacia. What’s your […] Visit Taking A Sip Of Three Alluring New Seiko Presage Cocktail GMT Watches to read the full article.

Vacheron Constantin Opens A Stunning New Boutique In Munich Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Opens Jun 13, 2024

Vacheron Constantin Opens A Stunning New Boutique In Munich

Vacheron Constantin has opened a new boutique on the famous Maximilianstrasse in Munich, Germany. An already beautiful shopping destination now boasts a new boutique from one of the most revered names in watchmaking. Let’s take a look inside. Over the past decade, we’ve witnessed the rise of the standalone luxury watch boutique. Vacheron Constantin is […] Visit Vacheron Constantin Opens A Stunning New Boutique In Munich to read the full article.

Christopher Ward Mixes Blue and Bronze in their Latest C60 Pro 300 Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Mixes Blue Jun 13, 2024

Christopher Ward Mixes Blue and Bronze in their Latest C60 Pro 300

Christopher Ward is introducing a new variant in their popular Trident Bronze collection - this time with a deep blue ombré dial. The C60 Pro 300 Bronze Blue Ombré builds on the long evolution of the Trident collection, and serves as an excellent reminder both of Christopher Ward’s mastery over bronze, and comes just in time for the height of summer.  The new C60 Pro 300 Bronze Blue Ombré reinvents last year’s C60 Pro 300 Bronze, replacing that model’s brown ombré dial and bezel with a mesmerizing deep blue, while otherwise retaining all the signature details that have helped set Christopher Ward apart from the pack. We’ve been talking a lot about what makes for a good summer watch recently, and there is no denying that this latest release from Christopher Ward throws a mighty wrench in that conversation, offering a tempting and handsome new entry into this year’s summer watch race. Christopher Ward has long been known for their dive watches, and - over the years - bronze has increasingly become a core material for the British brand. The C60 Pro 300 combines the two in a 42mm light-catcher case, here produced in CuSn6 bronze, a super-strong, copper-heavy bronze alloy that is well known for its deep color and ability to take a patina. If you love a deep patina with plenty of greens and an intense color, CuSn6 is the way to go. Bronze has long been a core material over at Christopher Ward, and this watch is an excellent reminder as to why. The Blue Ombr...

Zenith Defy Revival A3648 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Jun 13, 2024

Zenith Defy Revival A3648 Review

There is no doubt that most enthusiasts think of the brand Zenith and picture, in their mind’s eye, a chronograph – a chronograph powered by the now storied El Primero automatic chronograph movement which debuted in 1969. Triple use of the word chronograph in one sentence notwithstanding, it punctuates the kind of watch associated with this powerhouse of a brand. And 1969 was a monumental year for automatic chronographs. But it was also the year Zenith introduced its punchy, ready for the 1970s, and decidedly orange dive watch: The Defy A3648. Yes, a Zenith diver was released the same year as the El Primero…and the latter clearly took off on a trajectory far different from that of its aquatic counterpart. Vintage Zenith A3648 from around the time of the watch's launch. Over the past decade or so, Zenith has proven itself to be unmatched in the watch game when it comes to revivals, homages, re-editions, whatever you like to call them (Zenith literally calls them “Revivals” so we will too). Some Zenith Revival models are modern riffs on vintage designs, with slight tweaks, while others are near 1:1 recreations. Think back to the Defy Revival models of the past two years, with both black and ruby dial options. Those were authentic recreations down to the vintage-style clasps (an under-looked component of homage, if you ask me!). At Watches & Wonders 2024, Zenith returned to the 1969 well and brought its spunky orange dive watch back to life in the form of the De...