Hodinkee
Auctions: Phillips To Sell Two Rare Art Deco Cartier Clocks At Upcoming New York Auction
Horological innovation beyond the wristwatch from Cartier.
Results for Above the Date Window
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Deployant
New: Louis Erard Le Régulateur Grand Feu Enamel
Louis Erard adds to their signature new regulator model with a novelty with a grand feu enamel dial: the Louis Erard Le Régulateur Grand Feu Enamel.
SJX Watches
Seiko Drops Astron GPS Solar 2024 Limited Edition
Seiko just unveiled the Astron GPS Solar 2024 Limited Editions SSH157J1 and SSJ027J1. Both feature a transparent, patterned dial inspired by the starry night sky and a multi-faceted angular titanium case with contrasting satin and mirror-polished surfaces. Though styled like conventional watches, they are high-tech and run on Seiko’s proprietary GPS solar movement, which is accurate to +/- 15 seconds per month and has six months of power reserve. Initial thoughts Well liked for its value-minded offerings, Seiko does well with watches like the new Astron GPS. They are practical, high-quality watches that have some of the stylistic glamour of pricier timepieces thanks to the facetted case and integrated bracelet. Seiko Astron GPS Solar 2024 Limited Editions SSJ027J1. Featuring a reasonable prices of US$2,200 and US$2,500 respectively, the new Astron pair offers are amongst the more expensive electronic watches but executed as well as mechanical offerings in the same price segment. The titanium are finished well and the moulded sky-blue dials with applied indices are unusual elaborate for electric watches. Putting the high-tech movement aside, the quality of the dial and case are good for the price range. Bang for your buck The Astron GPS Solar models offer a chronograph function and run on a GPS solar movement with a power reserve of about 6 months. They are each equipped with different movements, with the SSH157J1 offering additional functionalities like the world time a...
Monochrome
Value Proposition – Hamilton Brings Bright Colours to its Khaki Navy Scuba 40mm
As we’ve recently seen, colours are everywhere. From accessible to high-end timepieces, watchmakers dare to explore the entire colour spectrum, bringing boldness and fun to all sorts of watches. With summer right around the corner, it is the perfect time for Hamilton to add a splash of colours to one of its classics, a go-anywhere-do-anything […]
SJX Watches
Hands On: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT
For Tudor, 2024 was a year of safe bets, with the only completely new model family, the Black Bay 58 GMT, being an almost guaranteed success from the get-go. Overtly referencing sought-after vintage GMT Master models from sister brand Rolex, the BB58 GMT further solidifies Tudor’s dominant position in its category. While the big story last year was Tudor’s move out of its parents’ basement and into its own manufacture in Le Locle, this year was comparatively tame, focused on expanding the line-up of METAS-certified Black Bay models. Initial thoughts Tudor is one of the Swiss watch industry’s great success stories of the last decade. In a market in which high-end products have enjoyed the lion’s share of growth, Tudor has achieved an enviable market position by consistently improving design and quality while maintaining affordable pricing. The brand is also listening to the community, and introducing products that are likely to have built-in demand; the BB58 GMT is emblematic of this formula. Beyond its signature gilt accents and black and burgundy “Coke” bezel, the big story is of course the packaging of a true “flyer” GMT functionality in the smaller Black Bay 58 case format. The original Black Bay GMT, introduced in 2018, was beefier, at 41 mm in diameter and nearly 15 mm thick (14.6 mm to be specific). The Black Bay Pro shrunk the diameter to 39 mm, but the thickness stayed the same, resulting in a watch that felt overly thick. The New BB58 GMT address...
Worn & Wound
Maen and seconde/seconde/ Collaborate on their Second Manhattan
Just last week, Chris Antzoulis brought you a profile of Romaric André, the designer behind seconde/seconde/. At this point, most of you who will find this story will know all about Romaric and seconde/seconde/, so the usual introductory blurb explaining what this is, exactly, can easily be excised. It’s probably enough to say that over the last few years, seconde/seconde/ has become ubiquitous, collaborating with brands of all kinds and at all price points. It’s gotten to the point where much of the conversation around these collaborations is not actually about the collaboration or the design, but about the momentum of André’s brand. His watches, once rare and genuinely special, are now the subject of a seemingly weekly (an exaggeration, but not a huge one) limited edition. It’s impossible not to ask where we’re heading, and how we’ll get there. Maybe part of the answer lies in the latest collaboration (at least by my count – there could be a new announcement buried in my inbox that I haven’t seen yet). The new watch is André’s second collaboration with Maen, one of our favorite small brands producing watches that truly impress with their design and finishing, always priced well below what you would expect. Their first collaboration, a limited edition version of the Manhattan with a cocktail inspired dial, was issued last year and sold out immediately. It was (and still is) one of my favorite seconde/seconde/ pieces. It’s playful, a natural visual...
Deployant
New: Seiko Astron GPS Solar collection
Seiko releases two new creations in the Astron GPS Solar collection with two new watches with dials inspired by the night sky.
Worn & Wound
This Year’s Oris Hölstein Edition is Here
This year, Oris is celebrating its 120th anniversary with the release of a special edition timepiece, the Hölstein Edition 2024. Founded in the small village of Hölstein in 1904, Oris has built a legacy of creating high-quality mechanical watches with a devoted fan base that has been steadily growing over the last few years. This new release, a black-on-black Divers Sixty-Five, is an anniversary present Oris is giving itself, showing the subtlety and sophistication of the Swiss brand. The Hölstein Edition 2024 stands out with its distinctive design, marking the first time Oris has ventured into a full black-on-black aesthetic. The watch features a 40mm stainless steel case, bezel, and crown, all plated in black DLC. The hands, hour markers, dial text, date wheel, and lume are also rendered in black, complementing the overall monochromatic theme. The modern design is completed with a black rubber strap and a black-DLC-plated buckle. In terms of functionality and specifications, the Hölstein Edition 2024 is powered by the Oris Calibre 400. This in-house automatic movement boasts a five-day power reserve and superior anti-magnetic properties, ensuring reliable performance. As with previous Hölstein Edition releases, the caseback features an image of the Oris Bear, this time clad in swim trunks. The watch is water-resistant up to 10 bar (100 meters), making it suitable for various aquatic activities. Limited to just 250 pieces on a first-come-first-serve basis, the Höl...
Fratello
Back To Basics: How To Read And Use A Watch’s Spec Sheet
I am happy to bring you another installment of Back to Basics, the series aimed at newcomers to our beautiful watch hobby. This time, we will have a closer look at watches’ spec sheets. A spec sheet serves as the manufacturer’s effort to capture a watch in numbers and facts. But what do these mean, […] Visit Back To Basics: How To Read And Use A Watch’s Spec Sheet to read the full article.
Fratello
Hands-On With Two New Seiko Astron Limited Editions With Starry Light Blue Dials
Maybe it’s because the Seiko Astron is the world’s first GPS solar watch that I have a weak spot for it. From the moment the very first ginormous 47mm version came out, I was sold on the idea of having a watch that connects to the GPS network and gets all its necessary energy from […] Visit Hands-On With Two New Seiko Astron Limited Editions With Starry Light Blue Dials to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
New Release: Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Purple
Armin Strom’s Gravity Equal Force collection continues to grow with the 2024 launch of the Ultimate Sapphire Purple model.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Patek Philippe “Extra Special” Chronometer of Henry Graves Jr.
A patrician banker who gained posthumous fame in the 21st century for his watch collection, Henry Graves Jr. (1868–1953) is most famous for having owned the Graves Supercomplication, once the most complicated watch in the world, and also the most expensive watch ever when it sold at auction ten years ago. His reputation means the watches he once owned – there were not all that many of them but all were high quality – carry cachet. One such example is coming up for sale at Phillips New York auction. It’s a Patek Philippe “Extra Special” pocket watch that is top-quality chronometer, classical in style and functional, and bearing the all-important Graves family crest on the hinged back. Now a horological symbol Not rivals but great collectors Graves’ modern-day fame as a watch collector was due in part to the ostensible rivalry between him and James Ward Packard (1863-1928), the engineer who founded the eponymous automobile company and an equally accomplished collector of great watches. Though both were active during the same decades, more or less, the famous competition between the two was a story made up in the 1990s to market the Supercomplication. Graves outlived Packard by 25 years, and the latter was quite ill when Graves was at his collecting peak. Graves bought the “Extra Special” pocket watch here in 1925, the year Ward fell ill with cancer before dying just three years later. An example of Packard’s impeccable taste: he commissioned this Patek Ph...
Deployant
New: Ba111od x Label Noir CHPTR_Δ.5
Fast after the released of their CHPTR_Δ (full review coming soon!), Ba111od releases the CHPTR_Δ.5, a collaboration with Label Noir.
Deployant
More Sunday Meditations: 6 watch recommendations for those with new money
This week, we turn our attention to the new money crowd. Very different requirements from last week's old money picks, as we would all imagine. On y va !
Monochrome
Buying Guide – Six Unconventional Mechanical Watches That Push Boundaries and Break Records
Even though the watch industry is often regarded as quite conventional, and focused on tradition and history, there is a far more forward-thinking side to it as well. People and brands that are not afraid of experimenting to bring never-before-seen stuff genuinely excites us. The resulting watches might not be to everyone’s liking, but you […]
Fratello
With Rising Watch Prices, Here Are Some Affordable Gems I Would Buy
Watch prices are rising, and these are economically uncertain times. Perhaps we should consider looking for horological fun a little further afield. If that sounds like a good idea to you, read on. I don’t know about you, but I have noticed a shift in my area over the last six months or so. People […] Visit With Rising Watch Prices, Here Are Some Affordable Gems I Would Buy to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Living Beyond Your Means as a Collector: How to Avoid Getting Hurt
When collectors gather anywhere and talk about their collections, recent purchases, and executed or potential sales, there’s a term that comes up more often than not: “getting hurt.” Here GaryG provides a masterclass in how not to get hurt in the world of watch collecting.
SJX Watches
Masterpieces of Historical English Watchmaking at Phillips
Phillips’ upcoming New York auction, taking place on June 8 and 9, includes an unusual number of exceptional, highly complicated English pocket watches. Notably, these watches were consigned by the same discerning collector who owned the unique Patek Philippe ref. 767 with double split-seconds that recently sold for US$1.30 million including fees. All dating from the late 19th to early 20th century, the pocket watches exemplify the most prestigious type of timepiece in the world during the period, the high-quality English watch. Banker J. Pierpont Morgan, for instance, was an avid collector of English watches, and owned what was then the most complicated watch in the world, and made in England naturally. Quintessentially English That, however, was also when English watchmaking of this quality peaked. A victim of economic crises, war, and unwillingness to adopt new manufacturing technologies, high-end English watchmaking would go extinct after the Great Depression, though it has been revived in the 21st century in artisanal form thanks to the likes of Charles Frodsham. English watches in their heyday were often very complicated, but restrained in terms of movement decoration. This same philosophy would later be employed by George Daniels, who understood that quality did not equal decoration. He famously said on several occasions that a high-quality watches does not need fanciful decoration (which he implied was customarily Swiss). The auction includes five English pocket ...
Quill & Pad
De Bethune DB28xs Purple Rain
In low light conditions, the De Bethune DB28xs Purple Rain seems to have a nice, deep hue, but when taken into the light, preferably sunlight, it really comes to life.
Deployant
New: Ulysse Nardin updates their OPS capsule collection
The Ulysse Nardin Diver NET OPS and Diver X Skeleton OPS are the latest additions to the brand's Diver collection, bringing a fresh and utilitarian OPS colorway to these performance-oriented timepieces. The Diver NET OPS is notable for its sustainable construction, featuring a case made from 95% recycled stainless steel and a unique composite material comprising upcycled fishing nets and carbon fibers, offering a robust yet environmentally conscious design. Its 44mm case is complemented by a unidirectional timing bezel crafted from Carbonium, a material known for its strength and lightweight properties derived from the aerospace industry. The Diver X Skeleton OPS, on the other hand, showcases a premium approach with its DLC-coated titanium case and intricate skeletonized design, providing a glimpse into the watch's mechanical intricacies. Both models maintain the brand's commitment to precision and durability, with water resistance suitable for professional diving and a design that's both modern and tactical.
Fratello
Introducing: Three New Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Variants
I’d happily admit to being smitten with Parmigiani Fleurier’s new look. The hits seem to be coming thick and fast this year, following the brand’s Watches and Wonders novelties. After the focus on the rebirth of the Toric, we get three new versions of the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph this time. Parmigiani’s intricate […] Visit Introducing: Three New Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Variants to read the full article.
Monochrome
Just Because – Audemars Piguet Unveils an Unprecedented Polychrome Camouflage Gold Alloy
Earlier this year, alongside multiple new watches such as the RO Perpetual with John Mayer and the Sand Gold alloy applied to an RO Openworked Tourbillon, Audemars Piguet also presented an unexpected and entirely novel multi-coloured ceramic called chroma ceramic featuring a polarising but cool camouflage pattern. In the same vein, Audemars Piguet now applies […]
Worn & Wound
Wait a seconde/seconde/: A Conversation with Romaric André
If you’re involved in the watch industry to any degree, even as a collector, you’ve definitely heard of seconde/seconde/, or at least seen his work. Timex, Bausele, Lima, Squale, Atelier Wen, Bamford Watch Co., Spinnaker, Furlan Marri, Maen, Sequent, Isotope, Louis Erard, Vulcain, Nivada Grenchen - high end, entry level, micro brand, independent, and large established companies. Romaric André (seconde/seconde/) has vandalized the world of watches at every level. He makes us smile, and causes many of us to view this large and serious industry with a bit of levity and added consideration. I connected with Romaric via Instagram. During the month of January my hand was broken, so instead of posting my own wrist shots I thought it would be fun to highlight friends in the Instagram watch community. One such friend had a Timex x seconde/seconde/ Polar collaboration with a wonderful whirling penguin rotating for a seconds hand. I made a comment in the caption stating that I wish I had jumped on the Timex x seconde/seconde/ collaboration, and moments later Romaric popped into my DM’s to let me know where I could get one at retail price. It brought me such joy to connect with him and get the watch, but it also opened the door for me to conduct an interview and get to know a bit about the man behind all the fun. Although it might seem like seconde/seconde/ has been part of our community only recently, he’s actually been involved with watches for some time. After going ...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Oceaneva Watches: Commemorating Five Years of Excellence, Resilience, and Unmatched Style
An introduction to the Oceaneva Watches brand. Learn about the brand straight from the owner and find out more about their products.
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Currently Available Watches With Full-Lume Dials
Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we take a step away from the pre-owned watches we have been covering lately. Earlier this week, IWC announced the first fully luminous ceramic watch. Watch spotters saw it on the wrist of Formula 1 driver and IWC ambassador Lewis Hamilton last weekend during the Monaco Grand Prix. […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Currently Available Watches With Full-Lume Dials to read the full article.
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Reviewing Six Of Our Own Watches With Ben And James
We cover the entire range of watches, from Swatch to Seiko to maybe the hottest indie around.
W
Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
New Video: Accutron’s Electrostatic Movement Explained!
For the first time, Accutron has pulled back the curtain on all the intricacies and technologies that go into how and why their one-of-a-kind electrostatic movement works. Ever hear of a Wimshurst machine? Neither had we. But its technology and principles, developed well over 100 years ago along with Accutron’s ingenuity, that power this conversation piece for your wrist. Now the story behind this movement is finally revealed. The post New Video: Accutron’s Electrostatic Movement Explained! appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
Maurice de Mauriac Introduces a (Very) Big Version of their Signature Chronograph
Maurice de Mauriac in 1997, and helmed by twins Massimo and Leonard Dreifuss since 2021, has carved out a niche as one of the more playful and eccentric modern independent watch brands. Their watches are known for their use of color and materials, even extending to the plethora of strap and bracelet options available. There are a total of 113 options on their website, to say you are spoiled for choice would be an understatement. New for 2024 is a mountain of a watch, inspired by a mountain of a man. When everyone else is making them smaller, MDM is making them big. The Maurice de Mauriac Chrono Modern Big Date Deep Blue is a large name for well… a large watch. Since we are on the subject, might as well get the measurements out of the way, as there are 2 available sizes. Large and extra-large. The former is 45mm in diameter, with a lug-to-lug width of 53mm, while the latter is 48mm in diameter, with a lug-to-lug width of 56mm. The cases seen here with a blue dial are titanium (the watch is also offered in bronze and steel). Inspired by 6’4”, 320 pound Swiss wrestler Samir Leuppi, these watches are meant for big wrists like his and Maurice de Mauriac does not dispute it. These are definitely not for the timid of wrist. One of the wonderful benefits of a larger watch is uncanny legibility, exemplified here with big bold Arabic numerals at the outer minute track and a big date complication at 12:00. The other distinguishing feature of this watch is the ornate knurled b...
Teddy Baldassarre
Glashütte Original Spezialist SeaQ Chronograph Review
While it was established relatively recently, in 1994, Glashütte Original can legitimately trace its lineage as far back as 1845, which also happens to be the year that watchmaking essentially arrived as an industry in Germany. As I cover in much greater detail in this article, a full century of horological tradition, centered in the town of Glashütte in the state of Saxony, came to an end with Germany’s defeat in World War II. It was replaced by a new era in which a state-owned conglomerate of once-independent heritage watch manufacturers, the Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe or GUB, shifted focus from artisanal techniques and luxuriously decorative timepieces to mass-produced tool watches for military and civilian customers. Many of the watches produced in the GUB era - spanning the Cold War years from 1951 up to the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1990 - are largely forgettable, but Glashütte Original, the luxury-watch firm that emerged from the dissolution of the GUB, has cherry-picked the most interesting and memorable of those utilitarian timepieces, produced in the late 1960s and ‘70s, for modern reimagining in its “Spezialist” series. Serving as the base model for the Spezialist models is a single, now-collectible divers’ sport watch from 1969, the Spezimatic Type RP TS 200, which was the first dive watch produced in Germany (technically, at the time, East Germany) that met the international ISO 6425 standard. Glashütte Original paid tribute to the fondly rem...
Worn & Wound
Louis Erard’s Latest is a Regulator with a Traditional Grand Feu Enamel Dial
Swiss watchmaker Louis Erard has recently collaborated with Donzé Cadrans, a veteran in the enamel dials field since 1972. As a first for Erard, the Le Régulateur Grand Feu Enamel model is adorned for the first time with a traditional grand feu enamel dial. This partnership shows an expansion for the Swiss brand into new territory – and done with impeccable taste. The use of grand feu enamel here marries technical precision and artisan craftsmanship. Each dial has to be made by hand, involving a meticulous process where layers of enamel are applied and fired at temperatures exceeding 800°C. This technique not only ensures vibrant and long-lasting colors but also demands an exceptional level of skill and patience, as even the slightest imperfection can require the entire piece to be redone. The result is a unique and exquisite timepiece, where no two dials are exactly alike, showcasing the harmony between tradition and innovation in watchmaking. The Le Régulateur model has an ivory-colored grand feu dial against the polished stainless steel case, giving a classic look for just about any occasion. The dial also features an hour and seconds counter subdials stacked at both the 12 and 6 o’clock mark. The colors are offset with a vibrant blue that both contrasts and marries the look together. With an automatic movement running on a Sellita SW266-1 calibre, you’ll have no trouble keeping time with this watch. The Régulateur is pulled together with a grey grained cal...