Two Broke Watch Snobs
Hands-On Review: Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Broad Arrow Inter.Bezel
Hands-on review of the Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Broad Arrow – Inter.Bezel, a vintage-inspired chronograph with snap-on bezel versatility.
Results for The Cartier Tank History
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Teddy Baldassarre
Watch Bezels: Every Type Explained
If you’re new to your appreciation of fine watches, you have undoubtedly read a lot of references to and heard a lot of opinions about watches’ bezels. It is somewhat of an esoteric term but it describes something very simple and essential. The bezel is the front part of the case (often but not always ring-shaped) that frames the dial and secures the crystal. Bezels can be made of the same material as the case middle and/or the caseback, but can also be made of a different material. Here we run down the various types of watch bezels you’re likely to encounter. Polygons and Exposed Screws Watch cases, of course, are not uniformly round, which means that bezels, the front-facing parts of those cases, can also be found in a variety of shapes - sharply squared or rectangular, like the Cartier Tank and Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso (above); softy cushion-shaped, like the Panerai Luminor and Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921; oval-shaped, like the Breguet Reine de Naples and other luxury ladies’ models; tonneau (“barrel”-shaped), like the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang and many Richard Mille models; and a host of others that combine elements of these and other polygonal shapes. The shape that has proven to be the most popular and influential is the octagon: eight-sided bezels have proliferated ever since Audemars Piguet launched the Royal Oak (above) in 1972, and watchmakers have also dabbled in other unconventional shapes: the sharply faceted bezel of the Zeni...
Time+Tide
Tissot celebrates UFO Robot Grendizer’s 50th anniversary with an extra-special blacked-out PRX
Tissot reprises its anime collaboration, introducing the first PRX with a black PVD-coated case and bracelet.The post Tissot celebrates UFO Robot Grendizer’s 50th anniversary with an extra-special blacked-out PRX appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Aera’s M-1 Dune draws unlikely inspiration for its unique pink dial
Minimalism-focused independent brand Aera's latest take on a field watch has a dusty pink dial inspired by SAS desert camouflage.The post Aera’s M-1 Dune draws unlikely inspiration for its unique pink dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Hands-On With Two Handsome Hanhart 415 ES Panda Chronographs
Many modern chronographs strive to strike a balance between vintage appeal and modern build quality. Few of those efforts result in a package as appealing as the Hanhart 415 ES Panda chronographs. These models revisit a 1960s design while delivering features expected in a contemporary tool watch. I had the chance to go hands-on with […] Visit Hands-On With Two Handsome Hanhart 415 ES Panda Chronographs to read the full article.
Video
A Soldier's Watch Collection Review - Doxa Diver & Gold Custom Signet Ring Unboxing + $2 Book Haul
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko After Dark, “Moonlit Birch” SLGW007
Grand Seiko has been fairly quiet over the summer, but has just unveiled the latest addition to its Evolution 9 collection, the “Moonlit Birch” SLGW007. Effectively a new variant of the “Birch Bark” SLGW003 with a steel case and navy blue dial, the Moonlit Birch is a competent alternative to its titanium stablemate. In other words, it’s an attractive new livery for what was already a compelling watch, and retains its best characteristics including a nuanced and ergonomic case, gorgeous dial furniture, and the brand’s latest manually wound cal. 9SA4 movement. Initial thoughts The original “Birch Bark” launched last year and was one of the standout releases at Watches & Wonders due to its elegant case profile and impressive new movement. The Moonlit Birch is identical in most respects, but the case is stainless steel, rather than titanium, and the dial is finished in navy blue instead of bright white. Despite these modest differences, the Moonlit Birch is appealing in its own right. The dial texture is subtle, but it’s enough of a Grand Seiko calling card to prevent the watch from looking too generic; a common trap for time-only dress watches. The stainless steel case exhibits the brand’s Evolution 9 styling, which gives the Moonlit Birch a bold, angular presence. In answer to the demand for slimmer options from Grand Seiko, the dimensions are nearly ideal, 38.6 mm in diameter and just under 10 mm thick. The watch is powered by the cal. 9SA4, which is pa...
Time+Tide
A Matter of Time Episode 06: Christopher Ward versus Tudor? Microbrands versus big brands?
In this episode, Andrew, Eleonor, and Kristian debate the advantages big brands and microbrands in the watch landscape have.The post A Matter of Time Episode 06: Christopher Ward versus Tudor? Microbrands versus big brands? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Buying Guide – From Summer Break to Daily Grind, 6 Mechanical Watches that Fit in Everywhere
Now that the summer season is finally behind us, however sad that may sound, it’s time for us to get back to our normal lives. No more fun in the sun, no more beach days, no more late-night backyard parties… Although I’m dramatising a bit here, it’s a given fact that around September, most of […]
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218 Vs. Breitling Superocean Heritage B31 Automatic 42
Turn on the coffee machine because it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown. In this week’s battle, two retro-infused dive watches take center stage. The first is the recently released Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218. It’s a modern remake of a 1993 classic made exclusively for the Italian Navy. It will face off against the […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218 Vs. Breitling Superocean Heritage B31 Automatic 42 to read the full article.
Time+Tide
New releases from Tissot, Swatch, Vacheron Constantin and more
From watches made from mountain rocks to automata that rock our world, there were more than a few big releases this week.The post New releases from Tissot, Swatch, Vacheron Constantin and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
My Baselworld 2017 Tudor Inspired Purchase - Watch Unboxing, Seiko Saturday Giveaway & Channel News
Fratello
My Highlights From A Week In Switzerland For Geneva Watch Days
It’s always a pleasure to return to Geneva. The lake, the atmosphere, and, of course, the watch industry coming together make it feel like home for a week. Compared to Watches and Wonders, Geneva Watch Days has a different rhythm, feeling a little more relaxed but no less important. For me, it’s as much about […] Visit My Highlights From A Week In Switzerland For Geneva Watch Days to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Seiko partners with REGAL for an upscale take on upcycling with latest Presage Classic release
Seiko teams up with high-end Japanese shoemaker REGAL Shoes & Co. on a sustainability-focused collaboration.The post Seiko partners with REGAL for an upscale take on upcycling with latest Presage Classic release appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
After 270 Years, Vacheron Constantin Reaches Beyond Watchmaking With La Quête Du Temps
If asked which was more impressive, it would be hard for me to choose between the La Quête du Temps clock unveiled at the Louvre in Paris or the staff of Vacheron Constantin putting on a surprising show of music and dance in the Genevan manufacture the next day. “VC” started its celebration of 270 […] Visit After 270 Years, Vacheron Constantin Reaches Beyond Watchmaking With La Quête Du Temps to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Announcement: Brandon Moore Joins SJX Watches as Full-Time Editorial Director
Seven years after writing his first editorial for SJX Watches, Brandon Moore joins the SJX team as full-time Editorial Director. Like many of us, Brandon got his start in the watch community through the PuristS forum (now WatchProSite), in 2008. A decade later he began writing about topics like the community’s obsession with in-house movements and how finishing has captured the industry in the age of social media. In 2023 he became a regular contributor while still working full time in software sales, until now. Brandon’s personal interests lie in contemporary high-end watchmaking, with a particular affinity for independent brands, a long-time focus of SJX Watches. He also enjoys pulling back the curtain on watch production with behind-the-scenes visits to manufactures big and small. In addition, Brandon co-hosts the SJX Podcast, where he and SJX cover new releases and industry news in a more candid format.
Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Daytona Rainbow: When An Icon Goes Colorfully Gem-Set
Aside from the watch that was made legendary by Paul Newman - and which would forever, unofficially, carry the famous actor’s name - there is probably no version of the Rolex Daytona that is more coveted than the “Rainbow” models that bring a meticulously designed and eye-catchingly beautiful assortment of colorful precious stones to the bezel, case, and dial of the motorsport-inspired luxury chronograph. Here is the story behind the Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” and why it has become yet another smash hit for the Crown in the 21st Century. To start off, it’s worth answering the question, “Why is the Rolex Daytona so famous in the first place?” The model’s success story begins in 1962, when Rolex, hot on the heels of other genre-defining watch releases like the Explorer, GMT-Master, and Submariner several years earlier, became the official timekeeper of the “Great American Race,” the Daytona 500. In celebration of the partnership, the Swiss brand introduced its original “Cosmograph” racing-inspired chronograph watch the following year. The watch, notable for its tachymeter bezel and three-register dial design, adopted the name “Daytona” shortly thereafter and really took the enthusiast community by storm when actor, director, and part-time racecar driver Paul Newman began wearing one regularly. Newman became a big-screen icon in the 1970s, around the same time that auto racing took off in popularity as a spectator sport, and this confluence of...
Video
Spring Drive Grand Seiko Luxury Watch & Spyderco Knife Unboxing/Initial Impressions
Worn & Wound
Our Favorite Seiko Watches of All Time
When it comes right down to it, there’s no more important watch brand to the enthusiast community than Seiko. Sure, Rolex is the biggest brand in the world, and the most recognizable brand name (for any product) ever. But no other brand matches Seiko for variety, accessibility, quality, and pure fun. There’s truly something for everybody under the Seiko tent, and it’s a brand that we find ourselves unable to quit, even when they frustrate us for any number of reasons. But this isn’t about those frustrations. This post is about the Seikos we love the most. We asked our contributors to pick their favorite Seiko of all time, and we think as you read through these selections you’ll find that the thing that ties them all together is a deep personal connection to a watch. That’s what’s at the heart of this hobby, and what makes Seiko so special. We want to know the Seikos that you love the most, so let us know in the comments what you’d pick. Elodie Townsend – Seiko Flightmaster SNA411P1 I can’t hear the name Seiko without getting misty-eyed about the watch that introduced me to the wider world of horology fandom: the Seiko Flightmaster SNA411P1. It’s big, brazenly busy, and admittedly over-packed with features that I would never use (calculus, anyone), but that pop of yellow and the charm of its over-complications make it a joy to wear, use, and show off. My dad got me my “Flighty” as a gift for my 21st birthday years back; when the price hadn...
Hodinkee
Business News: Secondhand Watch Market Prices And Listings Jumped After Tariffs Announced
Data compiled by Everywatch shows used Patek sales doubled in the week after the latest tariff level was unveiled.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Goes Gold
Grand Seiko has unveils three gold Spring Drive models with the new 9RA2 movement, the Japan-only Heritage Collection SLGA030, SLGA027 and SLGA028, in rose, white, and yellow gold respectively. The new collection benefits from a slimmer case, a longer power reserve, and some new dials to go with the satisfying heft of a full 18k gold bracelet that weighs in at almost 200 g. SLGA030 in rose gold. Initial Thoughts While mostly unknown outside Japan, a trio of gold Spring Drive models in 44GS-style cases on full gold bracelets were a staple of the domestic Grand Seiko catalog for nearly a decade, powered by the cal. 9R15 that was once the brand’s finest automatic Spring Drive movement. While identical to the cal. 9R65, save for a gold medallion on the rotor, Seiko set aside the best performing quartz timing packages for these special movements. The earlier generation of all-gold models, from left to right: SBGA364, SBGA361, and SBGA362. Grand Seiko has decided that now is the time to refresh the line with the upgraded cal. 9RA2, while preserving the heavyweight gravitas and luxurious bracelet of its predecessor. I have anticipated these watches since the second generation of Spring Drive movements launched in 2020; it took five years, but the result meets my expectations, though I would have liked a gold winding weight to match the case material. Selling watches on full precious metal bracelets in this segment is a mark of a strong brand. Gold prices and luxury margins bein...
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Watches Under €1,000 From Big Brands
Another Friday, another list! We return to a series of budget-related lists after focusing on Geneva Watch Days for two weeks and finding the best collabs last week. Today, we’re starting another three-list series focusing on budget-friendly watches. Not too long ago, we compiled a trio of lists covering the best available picks under €500. […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Watches Under €1,000 From Big Brands to read the full article.
Fratello
From Stadiums To Studios - Hublot’s Atypical Cultural Footprint
Hublot recently celebrated 10 years as the official timekeeper of the UEFA Champions League. To mark the occasion, the house released a special limited-edition Classic Fusion Chronograph. You may have noticed that we didn’t cover it on Fratello. Why? Well, because such sponsorships and co-branded watches tend not to interest our readers all that much. […] Visit From Stadiums To Studios - Hublot’s Atypical Cultural Footprint to read the full article.
Video
Affordable Non-Homage Alternatives - Patek Nautilus, Panerai Luminor & Radiomir Watches + More!
Teddy Baldassarre
What is a Rehaut on a Watch Dial?
Most parts of a watch that you’ll encounter in your pursuit of horological knowledge are names that are fairly familiar and mostly self-explanatory: case, dial, hands, movement. (We run down the gamut of the most important watch parts in this article). But now and then, you may read about, or hear someone referring to, a watch’s rehaut - a somewhat intimidating-sounding French term that might give you pause at first. What is a rehaut, and what is it used for? Read on. Put simply, a rehaut (properly pronounced “Re-OHH” without the hard “T” sound at the end) is the French word for “flange,” which is the English term most often used in its place when discussing watches. It describes the rim between the periphery of the dial and the crystal. Unlike dials and cases and hands, not every watch has one. But for many of those that do, the rehaut is not only a frame that fills in the space between the dial edge and the crystal but also a utilitarian element that can add interest and even useful information to the dial itself. Some watchmakers use the rehaut for staging the hour or minute markers, In the case of chronographs, like the TAG Heuer Carrera featured above, the rehaut can provide a spot for added functional markings like a tachymeter scale (which can use the built-in stopwatch to measure speeds relative to distance) or a pulsimeter (which works with the chronograph to measure heartbeat rates). Other watches might use the rehaut for calendar indications ...
Hodinkee
Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT Limited Edition for Hodinkee
Introducing the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT Limited Edition for Hodinkee, our take on a rare vintage design, featuring a subtle grey motif, upgraded sapphire crystal, water resistance, and a healthy dose of fully luminous printing.
Time+Tide
Nivada Grenchen’s Antarctic GMT returns in a 36mm Hodinkee limited edition
Hodinkee’s first limited edition since its acquisition by Watches of Switzerland is an understated, extremely considered retro tool watch.The post Nivada Grenchen’s Antarctic GMT returns in a 36mm Hodinkee limited edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Berneron Quantième Annuel
Bernaron releases their first complicated watch with the Bernaron Quantième Annuel, now in platinum with two dial options.
Hodinkee
Business News: Former Audemars Piguet CEO Bennahmias Returns To Lead New Luxury Group: There Will Be Watches
Bennahmias launches The Honourable Merchants Group and plans to include watches in the luxury venture.
Video