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Time+Tide
Ever fancied making your own watch, with specifications exactly as you’d want them? I certainly have. If so, this DIY watch kit is not what you’re after. Thankfully, I went in with no expectations whatsoever, yet came out of the process highly amused, if somewhat disappointed. For a bit of background information, I’ve delved with … ContinuedThe post The unfortunate story of a DIY watch kit appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Max Büsser and his cohorts at his horological think tank, MB&F;, have, without question, created a bewildering variety of watches over the years that have used horology as a jumping off point for the exploration of a highly idiosyncratic vocabulary of watchmaking, in which mechanics put themselves at the service of an aesthetics that freely mingles everything from pop culture to science fiction to sometimes alarming arachnomorphism, and beyond. However, what MB&F; thus far has largely not addressed itself to is the world of traditional complications – other than the tourbillon, used by MB&F; for its aesthetic impact, you will look in vain for anything beyond a simple calendar or a moonphase. Now, however, MB&F; and Büsser have gotten into the complications game in a big way: they’ve launched their own perpetual calendar, and, what’s more, they’ve done so with an in-house movement, with a variation on the perpetual calendar mechanism unlike anything we’ve seen so far.
Time+Tide
There are plenty of watch brands that have been resurrected from the past. But Circula set themselves apart with their authentic German heritage and the benefit of original family ownership. Focusing mostly on high-quality mechanical watches at an attainable price, their latest release is a neat blend of modern functionality and vintage quirkiness in the … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Circula Supersport delivers a reimagined Super Compressor diver at a great price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Breitling’s recent releases have stuck to a familiar and effective formula – watches rooted in the brand’s heritage but updated to distinguish them as modern and original, exemplified by the redesigned Chronomat and Navitimer. Now the brand has taken the covers off the Superocean Automatic, a dive watch inspired by the SuperOcean Slow Motion chronograph of the 1960s. While it borrows the original’s two-tone dial and massive, oblong markers, the new Superocean is a clean, time-only watch with no complications and of course a modern construction that includes a ceramic bezel insert as well as quick-adjustment clasp. The SuperOcean Slow Motion ref. 2005 Initial thoughts I’ve always liked past versions of Superocean with bright-coloured dials because they were quite different from other dive watches without being overly fancy. By the same token, I like the latest version as the redesigned dial makes it stand out even more, once again without trying to do too much. No date is great In fact, the Superocean is arguably all about design. Being ETA powered, it is less competitive against offerings from similarly-priced offerings from likes of Tudor (which relies on more sophisticated Kenissi movements), so the Superocean has to excel in terms of look and feel. And it manages to do so with the combination of an extra-wide chapter ring around a “mini” dial, a bold and handsome design that is unlike most of its peers. Aside from the overall design, the dial also appe...
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TAG Heuer have established themselves as the go-to brand for luxury smartwatches with each subsequent edition of the TAG Heuer Connected improving both form and function. When considering modern technology, it’s impossible to have a conversation about recent advancements without broaching the subject of NFTs and cryptocurrency. NFTs have seeped into seemingly every walk of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: TAG Heuer CEO announces “first and best” NFT Viewer is now available on Calibre E4 Connected Watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Bulgari have spent the last decade focusing on the Octo Finissimo as the flagship for their haute-horology endeavours, however there’s a growing movement from the Octo Roma range to offer more variety in the world of high-end art watches. The Bulgari Octo Roma Naturalia x Wang Yan Cheng is one of their boldest Roma designs … ContinuedThe post The Bulgari Octo Roma Naturalia x Wang Yan Cheng surges with organised chaos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The domination of the Swiss watch industry feels like an eternal truth, especially given the age of some of the most popular brands which stretch back hundreds of years. They may have always had the upper hand when it came to high-end complications and ornate decoration worthy of royalty, but there was a period of … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: How a fatal train crash became the catalyst for the Ball Watch Company’s success appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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This year at Watches and Wonders, there were some new kids in on the block. For the first time ever, street and culture title Highsnobiety was invited to the media table, along with the usual specialist, trade and mainstream suspects. And you know what, it was a joy to have them there. Highsnob’s lifestyle and … ContinuedThe post Highsnobiety just reposted our Moser Streamliner Vantablack video, because it is pure voodoo insanity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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A pair of watchmakers with English roots, Fears and Garrick have banded together to create a wristwatch that bears the aesthetic of the former while relying on the mechanics of the latter, the Fears Garrick. Founded in 1846 but having gone out of business during the Quartz Crisis, Fears is an English brand that was revived in 2016 by a descendant of its founder. Though it was not in continuous operation, Fears is now one of the oldest, family-owned English watch brands. Its modern-day offerings are all about clean, simple designs inspired by watches from its past catalogue, which are sometimes paired with period-correct, vintage movements. Garrick, on the other hand, was founded in 2014. Sitting in a higher price point than the typical Fears, Garrick’s offerings are constructed with the help of Swiss specialists, including Andreas Strehler, and dressed up with traditional decoration such as engine turning. David Brailsford of Garrick (left), and Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the great-great-great-grandson of Fears’ founder Initial thoughts The Fears Garrick is essentially a Garrick S1, the brand’s most impressive offering to date, but redesigned to give it a simpler aesthetic. Though intriguing, the open dial of the S1 has been done away with and the result is minimalist but appealing. I actually prefer the look of the Fears Garrick over the S1. But the Fears Garrick does bring to mind the IWC Portugieser, which is a good thing. For anyone who found the movement of ...
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Last week’s Australian Grand Prix set a new record for the highest attended weekend sporting event ever staged in Melbourne. That’s no mean feat in a sports-mad city that also hosts the Australian Open, the Melbourne Cup and is home to the MCG. Clearly, motorsports have enjoyed a serious injection of interest thanks to F1’s social … ContinuedThe post The circuit breakers: Watchspotting at the 2022 Australian Grand Prix appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Tudor finally introduces a more compact GMT watch with the Black Bay Pro, which is 39 mm and equipped with a fixed bezel. With slightly retro styling, the Black Bay Pro nonetheless has all the features that characterise Tudor, including a proprietary movement with a silicon hairspring as well as the newly-developed T-Fit micro-adjustment clasp. Initial thoughts The Black Bay Pro is what I have been hoping for, a more compact Tudor GMT. It has a 39 mm case just like the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, the perfect size in my estimation. And it has a true GMT function thanks to the MT5652 inside. It also sports a useful upgrade: the T-Fit clasp that allows for micro-adjustment on the fly, giving this a feature usually found on pricier watches. The aesthetic certainly beings to mind the Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655, which is a good thing (and it was probably designed with a knowing wink). Arguably the only downside is the case thickness. At 14.6 mm high the watch is thick, though not excessively so. It does not feel ungainly on the wrist, although the flat, vertical case sides do accentuate the height. Another only potential downside is the fixed bezel, which means the watch cannot track the third time zone that’s possible on the standard GMT. It’s not a dealbreaker for me since the third time zone functionality is something I never use on a GMT watch. Still, the Black Bay Pro is an impressive value proposition all things considered, and certainly one of the best buys of the fair. F...
SJX Watches
Debuted three years ago, the Odysseus is still a one-model collection with the Datomatic, though versions in different metals are steadily added to the family. And the latest is the most intriguing to date, because the Odysseus is entirely clad in titanium, marking a first for the German watchmaker. Initial thoughts The expansion rate of the Odysseus collection is surprisingly slow given most of its peers have quickly added complicated models such as a chronograph rather soon. But thankfully the Odysseus titanium is an interesting addition, despite being simply the result of a change in the material. It is indeed the material that distinguishes the latest, not just from its counterparts but also from the competitors. A natural choice for sports watches, titanium is nevertheless uncommon amongst luxury sports watches, especially when combined with Lange’s peerless finishing. And Lange certainly knows it’s special, because it is the first limited-edition Odysseus, ever. It’s also the priciest, costing about 40% more than the white gold model, which is exorbitant to say the least – and slightly opportunistic – but demand will doubtlessly outstrip supply. Titanium and more While the use of titanium is intruiguing, that alone is certainly not enough to make for a compelling Odysseus, just because Lange has set a high bar for watchmaking. And it doesn’t disappoint. On top of being end-to-end titanium, the finishing on the case and bracelet is also entirely different....
Time+Tide
We’re going to call it a space oddity. Albeit it a very welcome one at that. But today’s news that Omega have teamed up with Swatch to create a playful take on the Speedmaster Chronograph in the form of the BioCeramic MoonSwatch has caught the watch world by surprise. In the one corner there’s Omega, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Unpacking why the Omega x Swatch BioCeramic MoonSwatch is out of this world appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Today the watch world was stunned when word got out that Swatch and Omega have collaborated to bring us a set of 11 new, affordably-priced "Speedmasters." Now, considering the available color options, the proprietary BioCeramic cases, and reliable quartz movements - it's clear that these will be a hit with everyone from budget-conscious collectors to hardcore Speedy fanatics.
Time+Tide
As technology has evolved, online marketplaces have fundamentally changed the game when it comes to collecting. Rare objects that once required months or even years of searching through local stores to find are now just a google search away, most likely with a hefty price tag attached. Unfortunately, scammers have done well to evolve along with … ContinuedThe post Four tips to avoid getting scammed when selling a watch online appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The average person thinking of Louis Vuitton will have a lot of inspiration from which to draw their impressions. Between the $4000 handbags, $700 T-shirts, and even $1000 bucket hats, the image that Louis Vuitton paints is a surprisingly broad spectrum of wealth across high-fashion and streetwear. Leather goods, fragrances, clothing and eyewear are just … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Women have played a significant role in Breguet’s history, acting as inspiration or catalyst for some of the company’s most memorable timepieces – a phenomenon that continues today. So in 2018, when Breguet launched a timepiece in honor of St. Valentine’s Day, it was the start of an annual ode to love that has become as highly anticipated for watch lovers as the holiday itself. Here are all five of these limited edition timepieces.
SJX Watches
Open to watchmakers aged between 18 and 30 from anywhere in the world, the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition (YTC) is an annual affair that seeks to identify the most promising watchmakers of the future. Interestingly, any candidate who has “must have independently designed and created a timepiece and/or technical construction” can participate, whether or not he or she has formal training. A candidate can enter any type of timepiece – last year’s winner was 29-year old Mario Scarpatetti, whose entry was a longcase clock with a patented secular perpetual calendar mechanism of his own invention. The Kalendar Perpeten clock made by last year’s winner, Mario Scarpatetti Mr Scarpatetti won a CHF20,000 grant sponsored by Singapore retailer The Hour Glass, which is once again the prize for the YTC 2022. The winner will the selected by a jury of industry notables that include Francois-Paul Journe himself, Philippe Dufour, and Giulio Papi, who will make their choice according to four criteria: originality, technical complexity, aesthetics and finishing, as well as quality of make. Candidates can submit their entries on fpjourne.com.
SJX Watches
Long available only to the Japanese domestic market, Citizen’s top-of-the-line quartz watches have been slowly making their way into foreign countries in recent years (although last year’s high-end mechanical Caliber 0200 was launched internationally). The latest high-end quartz model, however, is being launched globally. The Citizen Iconic Nature Collection is a quartet of lightweight titanium watches featuring dials made of traditional, translucent Japanese paper dyed in vivid, natural colours. But the mechanics are cutting edge in contrast – a solar-powered quartz movement accurate to within five seconds a year. Initial thoughts Citizen’s ultra-accurate quartz watches are largely unknown outside of Japan, but that is gradually changing with the global rollout of new models, which are crucially dressed in eye-catching colours instead of the muted dials historically found on these watches. Citizen has used washi for dials on The Citizen before, but usually in a low-key white. The new Iconic Nature quartet calls to mind high-end quartz watches from Citizen’s Japanese rival, though Citizen’s offering edges ahead, at least on paper. The solar-powered A060 inside the Iconic Nature is accurate to +/- 5 seconds per year, while the Grand Seiko 9F movement is rated to +/- 10 seconds per year. And the practicality of the A060 is boosted by a perpetual calendar as well as an “on-demand” power reserve indicator. The price tag of US$3,500 is might seem high for an...
Time+Tide
With more and more people looking to buy wristwatches, it is crucial that there are more fiscally viable opportunities to join in on the fun. Many people can’t spend thousands and thousands of dollars on a watch. Fortunately, however, you don’t necessarily have to in order to secure some high-quality wristwear. We recently shared a … ContinuedThe post The Time+Tide audience has spoken: Your favourite watch under $1000 is… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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A watch designer whose talent lives on in his work, the late Gérald Genta was exceptionally prolific – he claimed to have penned over 100,000 creations. His family still possesses some 3,400 original sketches covering a bewildering diversity of timepieces. From that, a hundred sketches have been curated to form Gérald Genta: Icon of Time, a series of four thematic auctions staged by Sotheby’s in the first half of the year. The brainchild of Genta’s wife, Evelyne, the auctions will offer original sketches of his best known creations, including the Royal Oak, Nautilus, and Disney Fantasy watches – each accompanied by a non-fungible token (NFT). Three of Genta’s best known designs. Notably, the illustration of the Nautilus includes its case profile, unlike most of his sketches that depict only the front of the watch Essentially digital representations of the sketches, the NFTs “serve as a record of ownership and proof of provenance for each design, ensuring the value of each physical artwork is intrinsically connected to its digital counterpart which cannot be resold without the NFT that attests to the legitimacy of the piece” according to Sotheby’s. And these original works will be affordable, with each sketch and its NFT starting at just US$100, CHF100, or HK$1,000, depending on the sale location. But the highlight of the event is an actual watch – Genta’s own personal Royal Oak. Slated to be sold at the final instalment of the event taking place...
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I must confess I have a strong affection for J.N Shapiro watches. As a born and bred American, whenever I see US watchmaking get time in the spotlight I am all for it. Shapiro has been on my radar for a while, known for his intricately handcrafted dials engine-turned in California. Formerly a high school … ContinuedThe post The J.N. Shapiro Infinity Tantalum Limited Edition marks the first tantalum case made in-house outside of Switzerland appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A forgotten collaboration between two heavy hitters of the art and design worlds.
Deployant
Parmigiani's offering is well designed and executed and provides a subtle alternative to the crowded steel bracelet watch category. The thinness of the watch and the utility of a simple time only haute horologerie bracelet watch makes for a highly versatile stealth wealth timepiece. This segment popularized by the two-handed ultra thin models of Genta lineage has seen a resurgence in the past few years. Considering how unattainable these pieces have become of late, consumers have turned to alternatives.
Time+Tide
If you’ve always found yourself attracted to the highly technical mechanical movements produced by the upper echelons of Swiss horology, but have been put off by the sometimes staggering cost of entry, CODE41 would like to talk to you. The focus of the conversation would be the CODE41 NB24 Edition 2 Chronograph, further pushing the … ContinuedThe post The CODE41 NB24 Edition 2 Chronograph offers complex Swiss watchmaking at an accessible price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Launched as Dubai Watch Week opens its door, the Type 1 Slim DX2 is a limited edition created for Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the biggest watch retailer in the Middle East. Like its 2019 counterpart, the Type 1 Slim DX2 is inspired by the region. The polygonal geometric pattern on the sand-coloured dial is inspired by the decorative motifs found in the architecture of the Arab world, which have their roots in Islamic ornamentation. Initial thoughts The DX2 is a design variant, but it manages to look quite different from standard Type 1 Slim. It’s perfect for anyone who admires the brand’s technical ingenuity while seeking something more elaborate in terms of design. While the typical Ressence watch is all about unadorned, plain surfaces, the DX2 is decorative – and appealing for that. The dial brings textures, colour, and reflective surfaces that are not usually found on Ressence watches, which are either appealingly minimalist or mundane depending on your perspective. So the DX2 is more engaging, while retaining all of the mechanical ingenuity that sets Ressence apart from the competition. Because it’s mechanically identical to the standard model, the DX2 is also powered by an ETA 2892, a movement robust yet thin enough to fit the case. But the movement does come with the downside of a short, 36-hour power reserve. Still, the movement contains much impressive technical innovation, though that is all contained within the time-display module. Patterns and textures The co...
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After a pandemic-induced hiatus, A. Lange & Söhne is staging its first exhibition in Singapore since 2019. Taking place at the National Gallery Singapore, a historical building that was once the country’s supreme court, Exceptional Masterpieces happens from December 1-5, with public entry starting on December 3 (though registration is required). “This exhibition, as well as the rare and special watches on display, will allow those who might not know us well to have a better understanding of the brand,” explains Charles Langlois, Managing Director for South East Asia and Australia. Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst 1815 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst Alongside displays explaining many of the artisanal techniques employed by the brand to decorate and embellish its watches, the exhibition includes a few 19th century Lange pocket watches that illustrate the origins of the brand. But the highlight for most enthusiasts will be the 30 limited edition Lange wristwatches on show. Segmented into three themes – Honey Gold, Lumen, and Handwerkskunst – the wristwatch display is a stellar line up of some of the most desirable Lange wristwatches. The Tourbograph and 1815 Moon Phase from the 165th Anniversary “Homage to F.A. Lange” set The Tourbograph prototype with an undecorated movement Almost every model within each series will be on display, including the 175th anniversary Honey Gold trio launched last year and the Richard Lange Tourbillon “Pour Le Merite” Handwerksu...
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S NOTE: The notion of a luxury quartz watch should never have been a contradiction in terms. Thankfully, a growing number of high-end brands have rediscovered its appeal. From Cartier to F.P Journe and Hublot to Grand Seiko, plenty of well-respected maisons are once again investing back into quartz. All of which makes sense given … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: How I learned to stop worrying and appreciate the brilliance of quartz appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A massive sale, full of heavy hitters from across the horological spectrum – plus an under-10k CHF low estimate bonus round.
Quill & Pad
Many brands participating in the 2021 Only Watch auction took inspiration from the orange-colored livery of the 2021 auction and worked it into their watches. While all of these watches are very different, what they have in common is their highly creative approach. Here Martin Green highlights five watches with orange in them from the 2021 Only Watch auction.
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