Hodinkee
Introducing: Tudor Releases A Limited Black Bay 58 For Football Team Inter Milan's 20th Title, And You Can Buy It
Twenty championships = two stars on the jersey, and two stars on the dial.
Results for Regulator Dial
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Hodinkee
Deployant
New: Panerai Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT PAM01482
Panerai releases a new Panerai Luminor in the form of the Dieci Giorni GMT PAM01482. 10 day power reserve with GMT in a blue dial.
Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Conquest 38 Review
Last year, Longines relaunched the Conquest, a mainstay of its collection since the mid-1950s, in a new execution heavily influenced by its earliest vintage forebears and staking out a dressier territory than its sporty dive-watch sibling, the Hydroconquest. Longines set out to expand the new Conquest’s appeal this year with a new series of models in unisex 38mm cases. Read on for a hands-on review of the new Conquest 38 with an effervescent champagne dial. Longines, founded in 1832 in the Jura valley of Switzerland, where it remains headquartered today, can claim a variety of milestones in its long history, including one that is largely overlooked. In the 1950s, Longines became one of the first watchmakers to introduce product “families,” today a staple of the watch industry; the first was the Conquest collection, whose name was registered on April 3, 1954 with the Swiss Registry of Intellectual Property and which launched that same year. Like just about any timepiece well past the half-century mark on the market, the Conquest has evolved substantially over the decades since. The first Conquest (Heritage re-edition pictured above) was a model of midcentury masculine simplicity, and one of the first wristwatches notable for its high levels of waterproofness and magnetic resistance. Its steel case measured a modest (but at the time standard) 35.2mm and fastened via wide, chamfered lugs to a leather strap. Its champagne-colored dial had arrowhead-style notched indexes ...
Monochrome
Introducing – The New HYT Conical Tourbillon Panda
Following the release of the Conical Tourbillon in black with green dial-side animation and the vibrant, multi-coloured Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires, the brand continues its innovative exploration of fluid time presentation and bold colour combinations. Indie watchmaker HYT‘s latest creation is the Conical Tourbillon Panda, a cultured black-and-white version of this complex watch, limited to […]
Monochrome
Introducing – Chronoswiss Unveils Three Spectacular ReSec Manufacture Models
Founded in 1983 by Gerd R. Lang in Munich, Chronoswiss has quickly become one of the leading representatives of a classic complication, the Regulator – a type of display that splits the three main indications of time and pays tribute to master clocks of the old days of watch regulation. As you can imagine, the […]
Deployant
New: Czapek Antarctique Green Meteor
Czapek adds to their Antarctique collection with a new variation in a green meteorite dial with the Czapek Antarctique Green Meteor
SJX Watches
A Tudor Black Bay 58 for Inter Milan
To celebrate Inter Milan’s recent triumph in the Serie A – a 20th title for the Italian football club – Tudor has created the Black Bay 58 “Inter”. This limited edition Black Bay 58 (BB58) features a gradient blue dial with the club’s emblem above the six o’clock marker, flanked by two gold stars – one for each of the football club’s 10 league titles. First presented to the club’s players, the watch will be also available to the public as a limited edition of 1,908 pieces, available only at Tudor boutiques and retailers in Italy. Initial thoughts Football aside, the BB58 “Inter” is a good looking watch. The blue ombré dial is striking and different from the usual Tudor aesthetic, and it compliments the vintage-inspired aesthetic well. At the same time, the Inter Milan logo and twin stars are also fairly discreet, while serving as visual balance for the Tudor logo above. The rest of the watch is identical to the standard model, which means a compact, easily wearable case, high-spec in-house movement. Pricing is also comparable to the regular production model, which makes it a great value proposition. The BB58 “Inter” presented to French footballer Marcus Thuram. Image – Inter Milan I Nerazzurri Already associated with the America’s Cup, Formula 1, and pro cycling, Tudor is now furthering its involvement with football. Already the official timekeeper for American soccer club Inter Miami C.F., Tudor is now partnered with one of the most famo...
SJX Watches
Krzysztof Płonka Built the Great Astronomical Skeleton Clock From Scratch
A mechanical engineer by trade, Krzysztof Płonka has been making elaborate clocks since the 1990s in his workshop in southern Poland, specialising in regulator-style standing clocks with astronomical complications. One of his most complex creations is the Great Astronomical Skeleton Clock. Requiring a decade to complete – producing the components took six years and assembly a further four years – the clock is unique proposition that combines classical horology with more modern mechanics. Initial thoughts Large standing clocks are a niche of horology far from the mainstream of wristwatch collection. While wrist (and occasionally pocket) watches are well known to enthusiasts, the best clockmakers and their amazing works are mostly neglected. The Great Astronomical Skeleton Clock is a good example of such a hidden horological gem. It’s both curious in construction and comprehensive in terms of complications, a combination that should interest horologists and engineers alike. Built on a precision movement as the base, the clock features a complete perpetual calendar, sunrise and sunset times for a fixed location and even a sun declination indication. The mechanics are presented in a beautiful woodworked cabinet almost 3 m tall, with large glass panels generously showing the inner workings. The clock is stark in its open working, with most of the mechanics within on show from all sides. The movement features both classical horological elements and general mechanical c...
Quill & Pad
Czapek Antarctique Green Meteor: Cosmos to the Wrist
Czapek is on a roll with its popular Antarctique steel sports watch and recently introduced a striking green meteorite dial in a limited edition of 100 pieces (which is already nearly sold out.)
Worn & Wound
Sartory Billard and Grail Watch Collaborate on the New SB07 “Ghost”
The trajectory of Sartory Billard over the last few years has been one of the most unusual and interesting stories in the world of independent watchmaking. The brand had long been established as a leader in fully bespoke watches. The entire premise of the brand was built on the idea that every piece is unique, with wide customization options available to virtually every aspect of the dial. They’ve also been associated with great value, and were generally seen as an affordable option for adventurous fans of independent watchmaking who wanted something literally unique well under five figures. None of that has changed, really, but Sartory Billard’s recent output has seen them upping the ante considerably, with a new tourbillon movement and plans for an even more complex caliber featuring jumping hours and jumping minutes. Another example: a new collaboration with Grail Watch featuring an incredibly ornate and over-the-top mirror finish on nearly every visible surface. Grail Watch 11, the Sartory Billard SB07 “Ghost,” takes the brand’s integrated bracelet sports watch design and a design motif they’ve become known for and turns the proverbial volume up past the breaking point. Of the many options Sartory Billard offers to customers in their customization program, one particularly popular one is their fully polished dial. The SB07 seen here takes that idea and expands it to the case and bracelet, effectively making the steel components “invisible,” hence the ...
SJX Watches
Kollokium Returns with the Projekt 01 Variant “B”
A brand founded by a trio of industry insiders, Kollokium debuted with a modern, brutalist-inspired timepiece distinguished by a quirky, studded dial. The follow-up, the Projekt 1 Variant “B”, features the same matte black dial that now glows blue in the dark, while retaining the cast-steel case and domed, “glass box” sapphire crystal. Initial thoughts Quirky and perhaps polarising, the Projekt 01 stands out with its industrial, slightly raw aesthetic. The latest version retains the same feel as the original, but now with a more restrained palette instead of the vivid, and slightly angry, red and orange of the original. Variant “B” is a low-key black and white in the light, and then glows a cool blue in the dark. Otherwise identical to its predecessor, the Variant “B” remains affordable at CHF 2,666.66. Although there are many micro brands and establishment names competing in this price segment, Kollokium offers something different that is nonetheless a practical watch. The Variant “B” The Variant “B” is the latest iteration of Kollokium’s inaugural model, which launched last year as a 99-piece limited edition offered only to friends and associates of the founders, Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi, respectively an entrepreneur, designer, and media consultant. Variant “B”, on the other hand, is limited to 199 pieces and available to the public. Last year’s Projekt 01 “Friends & Family” that glows orange in the dark Like the o...
Fratello
#TBT The Seiko Cronos Self Dater 718990 - High Style, Low Budget
It has wide, massive lugs, a Grand Seiko vibe, a mechanical hand-wound movement, a date with magnifier, and no lume, just the contrasting beauty of the sunburst dial and polished hands and indexes. Oh, and let’s not forget an attractive price tag. You might say these things make this Seiko Cronos Self Dater a perfect […] Visit #TBT The Seiko Cronos Self Dater 718990 - High Style, Low Budget to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Orient Introduces the Bambino 38 Small Seconds
A budget-friendly dress watch, the Orient Bambino is robust and usually priced well below US$300, making it a good option for the entry-level or budget-minded watch enthusiast. Now, the Japanese watch brand added the Bambino 38 “Small Seconds” to the range. Offered in steel or a gold-plated finish, the new Bambino combines a compact case with a retro-style dial featuring a sub-seconds at six and Roman numerals. Initial thoughts The Bambino in its many variants is a compelling value proposition, marrying good quality with an attractive design. It’s the Orient equivalent of the Seiko 5. The model’s past designs have been a mixed bag, while the new Small Seconds is a more cohesive design. The latest iterations, particularly the silver dial, evoke 1930s watches with the railroad minute track and alternating baton-and-Roman markers. However, as is sometimes the case with vintage-inspired designs, this would benefit from revamping of the date, which is practical but gets in the way of the design. Aside from the cosmetic enhancements, the Bambino 38 Small Seconds retains the same in-house calibre as its predecessors, a no-frills movement that isn’t pretty but adequate given the model’s affordability. Retailing for US$344 for the steel models and a $24 hike for the gold-plated version, these remain commendable value propositions. A vintage-inspired dress watch The latest addition to the Bambino collection incorporates many elements from the existing models. It inhe...
Deployant
New: Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Purple
Armin Strom releases a new variation of their Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire collection with a purple guilloché dial mainplate.
Time+Tide
The Nivada Grenchen F77 Titanium Meteorite blends ’70s swagger with modernity
Nivada Grenchen's stylish vintage F77 reissue welcomes a thoroughly modern meteorite dial to its titanium case: a winning combination.The post The Nivada Grenchen F77 Titanium Meteorite blends ’70s swagger with modernity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Facelifts the Master Grande Tradition World-Timer
Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) unveils a new variant of the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 World-Timer, combining an 18k pink gold case with a domed, champlevé enamel dial depicting the Northern Hemisphere. As the name suggests, the watch features the cal. 948 with an orbital tourbillon that makes one revolution around the dial every 24 hours in conjunction with the map, mimicking the Earth’s orbit around the Sun. Dial and case metal aside, this is essentially identical to the white gold model released in 2022. Initial thoughts As a variation of an existing model, the new Calibre 948 World-Timer is not entirely novel. It is, however, a quite a stunning watch in both looks and mechanics. The enamel dial and pink gold case are in a rich, complementary colours, resulting in a striking, warm aesthetics. And the level of execution is also high, reflecting JLC’s strength in industrial-artisanal high-end watchmaking. That said, with JLC’s storied history, it feels like the brand can do more than rehash this tourbillon (and the Duometre as it did at Watches & Wonders earlier this year). The watchmaker’s watchmaker Sometimes known as the watchmaker’s watchmaker, JLC historically supplied calibres to many notable brands, including the “Holy Trinity” of Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin. As a result, it has a manufacturing know-how that is amongst the best in the mid- to high-end of Swiss watchmaking. A world-time orbital tourbillon with a champlev...
Deployant
New: NOMOS Glashütte 75 Jahre Grundgesetz limited edition
NOMOS Glashütte releases 6 Ludwig models to commemorate 75 years of the Basic Law of the Federal Republic of Germany. Each model is limited to 75 pieces and comes with a unique dial signature at 6 o'clock.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The B/1 Is An Audaciously Designed Watch By Newcomer Toledano & Chan
Part 1970s design, part Brutalist architecture, this watch is a bold stone dial statement.
Deployant
New: Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Pink Gold
Girard-Perregaux releases two new dial options for their 42mm Laureato in Pink Gold. The new dials are in either Sage Green or Ultramarine Blue.
Fratello
The White Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch - Better Than The Silver Snoopy Award?
After Omega introduced several Speedmasters not aimed at Moonwatch enthusiasts (e.g. the Speedmaster Super Racing with Spirate technology and the updated Speedmaster Apollo 8), the white-dial Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch finally came out on March 5th, 2024. I use the word “finally” because Omega had already shown it in October 2023 on the wrist of former […] Visit The White Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch - Better Than The Silver Snoopy Award? to read the full article.
SJX Watches
When the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is More Than an Entry-Level Watch
A no-frills time-only watch, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is now the brand’s entry-level model that’s available in a variety of dial styles and sizes, including the sought-after “Bubbles” dial. But Rolex has been making watches for long enough that the Oyster Perpetual from many moons ago is now a six- or seven-figure watch. Two of these special Oyster Perpetuals figure prominently in Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction. They are final two lots on the last day of the sale: lot 218 is the Oyster Perpetual ref. 6098 “Galaxy”, and lot 219 is the Oyster ref. 6102 cloisonné “La Caravelle” with bombe lugs. The Oyster ref. 6098 “Galaxy” The Oyster ref. 6102 “La Caravelle”. Both are time-only watches with Oyster cases, but the opposite of no-frills. They date from the 1950s, when Rolex was experimenting with a diverse range of dials for the Oyster Perpetual (and perhaps the recent 1908 in platinum is a return to form?) The “Galaxy” gets its name from the star-shaped indices on the glossy black dial, while “La Caravelle” refers to the cloisonné enamel dial made by a leading enameller of the period, Margueritte Koch. Today’s Oyster Perpetual with the “Celebration” dial of coloured bubbles Star-crossed Rolex watches with star dials are marvellous watches (which is why it was the inspiration for our Habring² Erwin “Star”). The most famous and expensive type of Rolex with such a dial is the ref. 6062 “Stelline” triple calendar. Less widel...
SJX Watches
Tudor Debuts Black Bay Ceramic “Chameleon” for Miami GP
Days before the Miami Grand Prix, Tudor announced a pair of special watches specifically for the event: the Black Bay Ceramic “Chameleon” issued to Daniel Ricciardo and Yuki Tsunoda of the Visa Cash App RB Formula 1 Team (VCARB). With a rainbow-hued dial that draws inspiration from the credit card of the team’s main sponsor, the two watches match the VCARB cars that have been dressed in a rainbow livery only for the Miami GP. They follow the quiet unveil in February of the Black Bay Ceramic with a blue dial made for the VCARB team at large. The Chameleon on the wrist of Daniel Ricciardo. Image – Visa Cash App RB Initial thoughts While the first VCARB edition was discreetly launched, this new pair was officially announced by Tudor. Unlike the earlier edition though, these are one-off creations intended for the drivers to wear during the Miami GP. While Tudor has produced numerous collaborative special editions over the years, this stands out for its unusually colourful dial that stands in contrast to the no-fuss aesthetic Tudor often employs. With a dial reminiscent of tie-dye shirts of the 1960s, the Black Bay Ceramic “Chameleon” sports an unorthodox aesthetic for a “tool” watch. Although the look is decidedly atypical for the brand, it’s striking and surprisingly appealing, though it will certainly be polarising. The Black Bay “Chameleon”, however, is not available to the public, making the appeal a moot point. The Miami GP-specific livery of the V...
Worn & Wound
A Quick Look at the Depancel x Worn & Wound Allure Valjoux 92
Watch collaborations are most successful when the result is greater than the sum of its parts. We’d like to believe The Depancel x Worn & Wound Valjoux 92 is one such example. Borne out of a desire to add a distinctly American flair to a classic chronograph format, the new Allure Valjoux 92 is both aesthetically and mechanically significant. The unique mint green dial conjures classic American automobiles – think Mustangs and Corvettes – and even shares the cars’ metallic paint finish. We’ve also elected to further simplify the dial by removing the running seconds sub-dial, which results in a single-eye chronograph. Speaking of chronographs, the watch’s namesake movement utilizes what is known as an oscillating pinion. To this day, the oscillating pinion remains the most efficient and simple horizontal clutch for engaging the stopwatch function, making the caliber Valjoux 92 a special movement for collectors and chronograph enthusiasts. The Allure is paired with a quality leather strap with matching green stitching, rounding out an attractive and interesting collaboration that would not be possible elsewhere. This Depancel x Worn & Wound special edition is priced at $3,900 and is limited to 20 pieces worldwide. Please reach out to us directly at sales@windupwatchshop.com for inquiries and purchasing details. The watch will also be on display and available at Windup Watch Fair San Francisco from May 3rd to May 5th. For more information on the event, please visi...
SJX Watches
Glashütte Original Introduces the PanoMaticInverse “Dresden Tribute”
A tribute to the German city of Dresden, the PanoMaticInverse Limited Edition depicts the city where the predecessor of Glashütte Original was founded in 1845. It retains the inverted movement construction that characterises the model, displaying the escapement on the dial, but here the three-quarter plate on the front sports a hand-engraved rendering of Dresden landmarks, the Frauenkirche and Academy of Fine Arts, while the bridges on the reverse are engraved with the Elbe promenade. Initial thoughts Although the brand itself was founded after the fall of the Berlin Wall, Glashütte Original (GO) has its roots in the very beginning of watchmaking in the Glashütte area. Because the brand was formed from the East German state-owned watchmaking enterprise, it was vertically integrated from the beginning, making it a true manufacture. It is somewhat under-appreciated compared to its neighbour, A. Lange & Söhne, although the two brands focus on different segments of the market, with Glashütte Original offering more affordable timepieces. The brand’s steel watches, for example, usually retail for under US$15,000. However, GO is capable of German haute horologerie, as demonstrated by its top-of-the-line timepieces like the Senator Chronometer Tourbillon. The PanoMaticInverse “Dresden Tribute” is one of the brand’s high-end offerings, with a retail price of US$47,400. Even though that’s a big number, the watch delivers substantial tangible quality. In addition to th...
SJX Watches
Up Close: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif Bleu “Only Watch 2024”
Possibly the successor to the Chronomètre Bleu, the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu is a unique creation made for Only Watch 2024 taking place on May 10, but also the template for a next generation of lineSport watches. The Furtif Bleu retains the familiar silhouette of the lineSport, but is executed entirely in tantalum – notably the bracelet is tantalum – with a fired enamel dial. Additionally, it is equipped with a new calibre that displays the power reserve and moon phase on the back. Initial thoughts Despite its name and low-key colours, the Furtif Bleu is a very striking watch, largely because of the contrast between the dark grey tantalum and the blue dial with an orange seconds hand. In the hand, it is heavy, as expected for the metal, and also silky in feel due to the finely blasted surfaces of the case and bracelet. Close your eyes and it feels like the current lineSport in platinum, though the blasted finish is finer than that on the existing gold and platinum models. And on the wrist, it is unexpectedly elegant for a sports watch because of its height, which is just 9.5 mm. That’s slightly thicker than the Chronomètre Bleu and noticeably thinner than the lineSport Automatique Reserve. One of the most notable aspects of the watch is the bracelet, which is entirely tantalum. The nature of the alloy makes it particularly difficult to work, explaining the cost and rarity of tantalum watch cases. Tantalum bracelets are even less common. The only other brand I can t...
Worn & Wound
A New Limited Edition from Massena LAB and Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo Pays Tribute to a Classic
Phillips, along with Bacs & Russo, has recently unveiled the 1952 Observatory Dial Limited Edition. This watch was created in partnership between three industry leaders: Phillips Watches, William Massena from the horological concept studio Massena LAB, and the award-winning independent watchmaker Raúl Pagès. The result is a watch that encompasses each collaborators’ unique talents, while building a watch that melds past and present seamlessly. Drawing inspiration from the legendary Observatory-grade Patek Philippe Ref. 2458 wristwatch, originally crafted in platinum for collector Joe Ben “J.B.” Champion, Jr. in 1952, this watch pays homage to horological history. Notably, the original timepiece set a record in 2014 as the most valuable time-only wristwatch ever auctioned, solidifying its iconic status. Despite its vintage influences, the 1952 Observatory Dial Limited Edition has a distinctly modern essence. Building upon the technical foundation established by Massena LAB and Raúl Pagès in 2022 with the Magraph Limited Edition, this collaboration introduces a 38.5mm × 10mm stainless steel case housing the manual-wind, proprietary caliber M690. This movement is a refinement of Massena LAB’s inaugural movement, features sub-seconds at 9 o’clock and hand-decoration (including hand finished anglage on bridges and plates) overseen by Swiss craftsmen under Pagès’ direction. Embracing a love for vintage timepieces and the narratives surrounding them, the colla...
Fratello
The April 2024 Fratello × REM Strap - Apollo XIII
It has been a busy few months for Omega, introducing the Apollo 8, Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch with a white dial, and the new Speedmaster 38 models. I expect to see some more Speedmaster releases in 2024, not least of all because it is a significant Apollo 11 anniversary. But we should also not forget about […] Visit The April 2024 Fratello × REM Strap - Apollo XIII to read the full article.
Deployant
Review: The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon
Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces the all-new Duometre Chronograph Moon in platinum with copper dial and pink gold with silver opaline dial.
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Perpetual Motions of the Roger Dubuis Orbis in Machina Central Monotourbillon
Modern watches made by Roger Dubuis are the antithesis of understatement and always manage to deliver a compelling mix of traditional horological content with a dash of extravagant, expressive design. This year’s releases focused on the flying tourbillon, culminating in the Orbis in Machina model with its rare, centrally mounted regulator (only a few can […]
WatchAdvice
OWNER’S PERSPECTIVE: Tissot PRX Powermatic 80
After over a year of ownership, the Tissot PRX has given me a new outlook on what makes a great, affordable luxury timepiece! What We Love: The finer design details comparable to more expensive watchesVariety of dial colours to choose from.Affordable/entry-level luxury at its best. What We Don’t: The date window could have been placed better for a more balanced dial view. Lack of colour choices to match the dials from the brand for additional straps. Lack of finer adjustment on the integrated bracelet. Overall Rating: 9.25/10 Value for Money: 9.5/10Wearability: 8.5/10Design: 9/10Build Quality: 9/10 When the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 was first introduced in 2021, it created quite a buzz! The timepiece came with an integrated bracelet design that had an AP-like shine, a waffle dial and a tonneau-shaped case with a circular dial. Those not versed in Tissot’s history didn’t know that this was a retake on one of the brand’s iconic 1970s designs (which I’ll touch on later) and saw this as a new kid on the block, one whose about to really shake things up in the affordable timepieces category. One of the main selling points of this timepiece was its price. For what you get in return, this timepiece offers a lot—quite a lot, actually. The PRX was first released with a quartz movement, staying true to its original, and priced around $500. Then came what we watch aficionados were waiting for: a mechanical version with a pretty hefty power reserve. 1970s Vintage Tissot ...