Hodinkee
Dispatch: Omega Celebrates 60 Years Of NASA Qualification
A look at the past, present, and future of spaceflight with the Omega Speedmaster.
Results for Above the Date Window
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Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Hands On: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain 20th Anniversary
Although Francois-Paul Journe is best known for his inventions like the Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite and Resonance, not to mention the whole suite of Octa models, the Chronomètre Souverain was also arguably one of his brand’s foundational models. This year F.P. Journe is marking two decades of the watch with the Chronomètre Souverain 20th Anniversary, which is essentially the original in new dress – the dial is now dark blue with applied gold numerals. Initial thoughts When the Chronomètre Souverain debuted in 2005 – the same year as the Breguet Tradition that was recently revived – it was novel and exciting; I remember the buzz amongst enthusiasts then. The F.P. Journe brand was barely six years old. The Chronomètre Souverain was then one of the rare few time-only watches from an independent watchmaker, and it had an all-new movement to boot. Today it is less exciting for sure, but the movement remains surprising novel for a basic calibre. As an entry-level watch, the Chronomètre Souverain remains excellent (even if availability is an obstacle). Although the Chronomètre Souverain is the simplest mechanical F.P. Journe watch, the cal. 1304 inside still retains the technical hallmarks of the brand, namely elegant, concise engineering and symmetry. Clever touches include the “invisible” gear train; only the regulator and barrels are visible on the main plate. From its conception, the cal. 1304 was conceived for chronometry. The utility and strength of t...
Quill & Pad
New Release: Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035BH/H2/9V6 with Breguet Gold Case and Breguet Blue Enameled Guilloche Dial
Breguet appears to be struggling to live up to its reputation as one of the oldest and most iconic Swiss watch brands, but the brand hit the ball out of the park the Tradition collection. And this Seconde Rétrograde is yet another home run.
SJX Watches
Highlights: Phillips NYWA XII
As the Hong Kong auctions have wrapped, we move to the final sales of the spring season in New York City. Phillips will offer a healthy mix of new and old, common and rare, across 144 lots. The sale includes many of the expected top-of-the-line offerings, with the headline lot a Patek Philippe ref. 1518 in yellow gold, and staples like a pair of ref. 5004s. But there are plenty of interesting watches to be down catalog too, including some fresh faces and value buys. Highlights include the best of English watchmaking made by Charles Frodsham a century apart, the auction debut of American independent Keaton Myrick, an unusual F.P. Journe Résonance, along with a Cartier pocket watch made by complications specialist THA. We round up these and a few more from The New York Watch Auction: XII, which takes place from June 7-8, 2025. The full catalogue is available on Phillips.com. Lot 11 – A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph “2022 Best of Show, Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este” Since 2012, A. Lange & Söhne has been a sponsor of the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este, a classic car shown that takes place in spring on the picturesque shores of Lake Como. Each year, the owner of the event’s best car is presented with a unique Lange watch. While past winners have received a fairly conventional Lange 1 Time Zone, the brand upgraded the prize in recent years to a striking 1815 Chronograph. In 2022, the winner was Andrew Pisker with a Bugatti 57 S from 1937. He received th...
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 “Lavender” Vs. Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323
Welcome to another installment of Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we decided to put the Swiss up against the Japanese, each with a purple-dial stainless steel watch of their own. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual with a lavender dial represents the Swiss, while the Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323 represents the Japanese. Both came out during Watches […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 “Lavender” Vs. Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323 to read the full article.
Deployant
New: Bell & Ross BR-03 Diver Lum Outline
The Bell & Ross BR-03 Diver Lum Outline is a limited-edition timepiece that blends the brand’s signature square case design with professional dive watch functionality. Designed for underwater visibility, it features Super-LumiNova accents that enhance readability in low-light conditions while maintaining a minimalist aesthetic.
Quill & Pad
History of De Bethune Watches for Watch Collectors by Tim Mosso
In this video Tim Mosso explains the full history of De Bethune, from its first watches to their latest models. Over its first 23 years of history, the brand co-founded by watchmaker Denis Flageollet has created a vast array of innovative watches that belies its relative corporate youth.
Fratello
How Ollech & Wajs Watches Contributed To A 1960s Arctic Diving Expedition
Ollech & Wajs is a brand that is not covered all that often. There is much to like, though, when one starts to investigate the brand’s history as well as its current offerings. Indeed, it is a brand that resonates with me. Something about Ollech & Wajs’s no-nonsense tool-watch designs and rich past makes for […] Visit How Ollech & Wajs Watches Contributed To A 1960s Arctic Diving Expedition to read the full article.
Fratello
Artem Drops Some Fresh Colors For Its Signature Nylon Watch Straps
Artem unveils four new colors for its range of Signature Nylon watch straps. These colors - Burgundy, Sandstone, Atlantic Blue, and Khaki Green - arrive in time for the Northern Hemisphere’s summer season. With a choice of brushed, polished, or black DLC-coated hardware in either 19–20mm or 21–22mm widths, the straps offer a tremendous variety […] Visit Artem Drops Some Fresh Colors For Its Signature Nylon Watch Straps to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - Mido Adds a Chic Gold PVD Version to its Ocean Star GMT
Mido, a mid-level brand owned by the Swatch Group, is well known for its capacity to deliver solid horological content at a fair price, but also with a rather cool sense of design. Check the recent Ocean Star 39 and you’ll have a great idea of what we’re talking about. Another watch that always made […]
Fratello
Photo Report: Fratello × Breitling Martini Evening
Breitling and Fratello hosted an event at the brand’s beautiful boutique in The Hague a few weeks ago. During this event, guests could try out the new Breitling Top Time B01 models, including the new Martini Racing edition. To boost the event, Breitling arranged for a Lancia Delta HF in Martini execution to serve as […] Visit Photo Report: Fratello × Breitling Martini Evening to read the full article.
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Releases From Small Independent Brands So Far In 2025
It’s Friday, and we are back with another list! After skipping it last week because of the new TAG Heuer releases, we are back with another Top 5. With June just a few days away, it’s already time to start looking back at some of the best releases so far in 2025. We’ll kick off […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Releases From Small Independent Brands So Far In 2025 to read the full article.
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. Launches a Formula 1 Streamliner Duo
For its partnership with the Alpine Formula 1 team, H. Moser & Cie. debuts a pair of firsts for the brand: the Streamliner Alpine Drivers Edition is its first skeletonized chronograph, and the Streamliner Alpine Mechanics Edition is an entirely new model and the brand’s first true smartwatch – not counting the Swiss Alp Watch – with special digital functions tailored to the needs of an F1 team. While the regular production Streamline Flyback Chronograph already has a racing aesthetic, it’s been dialed up to match to the Alpine team colors, with the blue-coated steel case being notable. And the digital Streamliner is more than just a commemorative watch. Most Formula 1 sponsorships are just that, but Moser decided it wanted to contribute a tool the team can rely on during the season, just as mechanical watches were decades ago. Both will be sold as a set, though the smartwatch will be available individually to owner’s of the Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton “Alpine”. Initial Thoughts Nothing is off the table for Moser, whose past “concept” watches included a watch made from a cheese-filled composite, one covered in living plants, and the infamous Swiss Icons watch. Even with that in mind, a smartwatch is unexpected, though it makes sense given the brand’s stated goals with the collaboration. Referring to the smartwatch, Chief executive Edouard Meylan says “we wanted to create a measuring instrument that meets the demands of a Formula 1 team,...
Fratello
Why I Bought A Five-Digit Rolex GMT-Master II (Again)
It must have been 1999 or 2000 when the Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 16710 was incredibly high on my wishlist. I even had the official Rolex advertisement for this model as the wallpaper on my Windows desktop. But I was a student, and the Rolex GMT-Master II was out of reach. The Rolex GMT-Master II […] Visit Why I Bought A Five-Digit Rolex GMT-Master II (Again) to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Breguet Classique Souscription
Breguet got off to a good start for its 250th anniversary with the Classique Souscription, which despite being not an entirely new model in technical terms, is arguably the best watch the brand has launched in years, perhaps reflecting the influence of a new chief executive. Powered by a calibre based on the longstanding Tradition movement, the one-handed Classique Souscription marries an atypical (for Breguet) 20th century case with a dial inspired by 19th century pocket watches – resulting in a surprisingly coherent creation that still feels quintessentially Breguet. Initial thoughts I was pleasantly surprised by the Classique Souscription. Breguet managed to take a familiar model and transform it into something different and appealing. The brand didn’t manage to do the same with the second anniversary model, which is essentially a rehash of the Tradition but with an enamel dial. Sized just right, the Classique Souscription feels like it was conceived by an enthusiast with knowledge of vintage watches; the red leather-covered presentation box underlines that. The design is simple overall, but enhanced with details like a sharply finished single hand and “secret signature” engraved the old fashion way. The form of the case is clearly early to mid 20th century, while the dial evokes the original Souscription pocket watch. Although the case and dial styles are 150 years apart, they complement each other almost perfectly; the result still looks very much like a Breg...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Rolex Daytona “Turquoise Blue” Ref. 126518LN
At Watches & Wonders 2025, all eyes were on Rolex. But the polarising Land-Dweller grabbed most of the headlines, relegating new versions of existing models, including the mighty Cosmograph Daytona Turquoise Blue ref. 126518LN, to second billing. Regardless, the Daytona remains one of the most iconic watches in the industry and its inherent quality makes any new version worthy of a close look. In this case, those who probed the depths of the Rolex catalogue were rewarded with the unusual combination of an 18k yellow gold case and a turquoise lacquer “Stella” dial. (And those lucky enough would have seen the “off-catalogue” Daytona ref. 126538TBR with an actual turquoise stone dial and diamond-set case.) Initial thoughts Let’s just say this was not love at first sight. I initially found this new colourway overly garish, but I am a sucker for turquoise, whether natural stone or, in this case, lacquer, so the look has grown on me over time. I think I’d have preferred a different treatment for the sub-dials, which to my eye dull the vibrancy of the turquoise, but this is a subjective critique of an objectively well-made watch. Dial colour aside, the new Daytona benefits from the model’s 60th anniversary updates rolled out two years ago, including the gold rim for the ceramic bezel. The case offers roughly ideal proportions for a sporty chronograph, 40 mm in diameter and around 12 mm thick. It also comes equipped with the brand’s rubberised Oysterflex bracelet, ...
Fratello
Hands-On With Three Striking Rado Anatom Models With High-Tech Ceramic Bracelets
When Rado announced the comeback of the Anatom series, it brought back many memories. I vividly remember that my mother was a big fan of the black ceramic Rado watches in the 1990s. So while I was checking out the promo materials of Pete Sampras and his Movado Museum Watch back then, my mother was […] Visit Hands-On With Three Striking Rado Anatom Models With High-Tech Ceramic Bracelets to read the full article.
Fratello
Up Close And Personal With Benoît Mintiens And Ressence’s Oil-Filled Watches
Yes, a Ressence watch certainly stands out from most other watches. The apparent simplicity, rounded shape, and thoughtful use of color make Benoît Mintiens’ creations very distinct. The brand’s oil-filled watches - the Type 3, 5, and the recently introduced 7 - best express the founder’s functional philosophy: a mechanical watch should tell you the […] Visit Up Close And Personal With Benoît Mintiens And Ressence’s Oil-Filled Watches to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Introducing Anemoic: From University Project to Watch Brand
Watch industry trade shows can be intoxicating if not disorienting as you meander down rows of branded tables, making snap judgments as to where you choose to spend your precious time. It’s possible to go through an entire day under the assumption that you had seen everything, tried it on for a wrist shot, and compiled your shortlist only to find out from an acquaintance that there was one model you missed, hiding in their camera roll. That is a fear that all of us in watch media live with. So, when I overheard the rumblings of a young watch designer hiding an interesting prototype in his pocket during the first session of public hours during British Watchmakers’ Day, I knew I had only a few hours to pull on that thread and seek it out myself. Finally, towards the closing hours of the show, I ran into Magnus Swann. Magnus Swann Like an introductory drug deal oozing with awkwardness, I slunk up to the tall figure to introduce myself, hoping he would supply the goods. With equal parts excitement and nervousness at sharing an early glimpse into his personal vision, Magnus produced a prototype, along with immediate excuses for its appearance, offering detailed points for his lofty goals. What began as a university project was finally starting to take shape. For the first time, it was being seen by a select few of the most scrutinizing watch enthusiasts. I sat there with Magnus’s creation in hand, and immediately signed up to follow his story. It is still the early days, ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: H. Moser & Cie. Partners With Alpine Motorsports For Two Special New Streamliners
A dichotomy of Streamliners, including a smartwatch out of the (fumé) blue.
Deployant
New and Reviewed: TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph x Gulf
We had encountered the TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph x Gulf at WWG25. The release just makes it to market this week, we present our review of the watch.
Fratello
A New Independent Watchmaker In Town: In Conversation With Annelinde Dunselman Of Dunselman Watchmaking
I turned my car into Annelinde Dunselman’s yard somewhat apprehensively. Was I in the right place? Nothing suggested I was about to walk into the atelier of a high-end independent watchmaker. Bathing in the spring sun, the building looked more like a sentient member of a lively family in the eastern Dutch city of Zwolle. […] Visit A New Independent Watchmaker In Town: In Conversation With Annelinde Dunselman Of Dunselman Watchmaking to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
Breitling Top Time Martini Racing Review: A Winning Partnership
The Breitling Top Time Martini Racing is a stylish tribute to the brand’s motorsport heritage, blending retro 1960s design with the iconic flair of Martini Racing, and here is how it performs in the modern-day watch world… What We Love The vibrant colours and dial stand out on the wrist A super easy-wearing watch thanks to its dimensions and lightness A great If You Know, You Know (IYKYK) collaboration What We Don’t The 38mm size wears on the smaller side, and may not suit larger wrists The domed crystal does distort the tachymeter scale on the outer section of the dial Start function on the chronograph is a little stiffer than expected Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Two Brands, One Shared Passion Normally when watch brands embark on collaborations with companies or brands outside the watch world, there is normally a pre-existing association in place. Usually through a sponsorship of an event, or partnership with a movie, that kind of thing. However, with the new Breitling Top Time Martini Racing, this is not quite the case. What it is, however, is a partnership based on a shared passion – Motorsport. Interestingly, neither Breitling nor Martini Racing are motoring brands either. Before you say, “But Martini Racing is one of the most iconic motorsports brands out there!” to which you are right, I’ll preface that statement. Martini Racing is part of Martini & Rossi, the alcohol brand base...
SJX Watches
Business News: Swiss Watch Exports to US Jump to Record High Before Tariffs
In a rush to beat American President Donald Trump’s tariffs, Swiss watch brands exported almost two months’ worth of inventory to the United States in April, according to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FH), the trade body that publishes export statistics widely regarded as a proxy for the overall luxury watch business. Exports to the United States were up over 150% to CHF852 million, more than double the CHF405 million in March. For comparison, the next-largest export destination in April was Japan, with the corresponding figure a mere CHF176 million. Currently, Swiss imports to the US are subject to a 10% blanket tariff, however 31% tariff will be levied on Swiss imports after July 9, assuming nothing changes between then and now. Consumer confidence in the United States, while battered, is showing signs of recovery too, increasing for the first time in five months as measured by economic research institute The Conference Board. For several years now, the stalwart American market has buoyed Swiss watch exports, while demand in China and Hong Kong continue to slide, with April exports to the respective markets down 30.5% and 22.8%. Having started almost a decade ago after the start of an anti-corruption campaign, China’s luxury slowdown isn’t limited to watches, and is unlikely to reverse anytime soon. While some brands can shift inventory to other markets, others are already buying back inventory and cutting production. While less dramatic than in Chi...
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
California Coast Through Film & Time: A Road Trip with Kat Shoulders, Fujifilm, and Citizen’s Unite with Blue Collection
A few weeks ago, I set out on a road trip along one of my favorite stretches of the world: the California coast. It was more than just a drive down Highway 1 - it was a journey to see the coastline in a new way, through the lenses of two amazing Fujifilm medium format cameras and a special Citizen Promaster that quietly echoed the whole vibe. Right after the Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco, I (and my BFF) hit the road and headed south down Highway 1, taking in some of the dreamiest towns California has to offer. Monterey, Piedras Blancas, Big Sur, Morro Strand, SLO, Pismo Beach, Solvang, Santa Barbara… It’s wild how the vibe shifts even though you’re basically hugging the same coast the whole time. Like, how is this all the same state? This feels like sorcery somehow. But before we go full travel diary, let me talk about the gear. Because yes, this trip had a theme: film & time. The post California Coast Through Film & Time: A Road Trip with Kat Shoulders, Fujifilm, and Citizen’s Unite with Blue Collection appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Teddy Baldassarre
Cartier Tank Louis Review
The Cartier Tank is one of the most thoroughly and exhaustively discussed watches of all time. At one point or another, the Cartier Tank has been worn by JFK, Princess Diana, Ralph Lauren, Michelle Obama, Muhammad Ali, Andy Warhol… the list really goes on and on. The first Cartier Tank was a prototype worn by none other than U.S. General "Black Jack" Pershing, who was the commander of the Allied forces in World War I. And while the collection was formally debuted with the Tank Normale, it would be the Cartier Tank Louis that would go on to be synonymous with the iconic rectangular-cased watch. Of course, there is so much history and lore to get lost in with the Tank and our own resident expert, Mark Bernardo, did a complete job of it, which you can read here. The Cartier Tank Louis is an Art Deco classic that has inspired countless imitators but, as with all great things, there is the real thing and then there’s everything else. Cartier Tank Louis Case The contemporary Cartier Tank Louis comes in a few different sizes, starting with the mini quartz which is 16.5mm wide, 6.2mm thick, and 24mm tall; to the small mechanical, which is 22mm wide, 6.8mm thick, and 29.5mm tall; to the size I will be reviewing here, which is the large manual-winding model, which is 25.5mm wide, 6.6mm thick, and 33.7mm tall. There is also the automatic Tank Louis that was introduced at this year’s edition of Watches & Wonders, which is 27.7mm wide, 8.18mm thick, and 38.1mm tall. When mos...
Fratello
Oracle Time Hosts Hands On Horology Watch Event This June
The UK’s leading watch publication, Oracle Time, announces a new watch event for the enthusiast community. Hands On Horology will take place on the 14th of June 2025 at Protein Studios, Shoreditch, London, UK. Showcasing more than 40 brands, from independents to globally recognized watchmakers, the event will have something for everyone. There will also […] Visit Oracle Time Hosts Hands On Horology Watch Event This June to read the full article.
Fratello
Astronomical Exclusivity: Rolex Introduces Three New Daytona Watches With Meteorite Dials
This year, Rolex introduced no fewer than eight new Daytona references, but only one made it to the brand’s press room during Watches and Wonders. The seven other iterations remained hidden. Luckily, a visit to the brand’s Brussels offices revealed that 2025 marks the year Rolex introduces three new Daytona watches in three gold alloys […] Visit Astronomical Exclusivity: Rolex Introduces Three New Daytona Watches With Meteorite Dials to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Gunsmith Dewey Vicknair Returns with Second Handmade Watch
A year ago, we covered a self-taught watchmaker who built his first piece by watch, Dewey Vicknair. Now the American gunsmith has completed his second watch, a regulator with a jump hour function that’s once again hand-made. He published a comprehensive photo essay detailing the steps in manufacturing the watch, which is a worthwhile read for anyone interested in a contemporary, yet fully manual watchmaking process. Initial thoughts The story of Mr. Vicknair is unlike most independent watchmakers. Now in his mid-fifties, he long ago built his reputation as a maker and restorer of firearms before turning to watchmaking. Self-taught, Mr. Vicknair is definitely a quick study; he adapted his metal-working skills to horology and produced his first watch swiftly. Even more interesting, perhaps, is the way he creates his own tooling. From a vertical drill press to various cutters and even custom tweezers for bending the hairspring overcoil, Mr. Vicknair seems able to build any tool to cater to his requirements. Artisanal watchmakers usually use restored vintage machines when making watches, but it is very rare that they develop the tools themselves. Mr. Vicknair’s extensive experience as a gunsmith gives him an excellent understanding of machinery that cannot simply be taught in watchmaking schools. His work is clearly that of a very talented mechanical craftsman who just happens to have mastered watchmaking – after having mastered gunsmithing. The watch itself is pre...
Worn & Wound
Our Favorite Watches for Summer 2025
It’s Memorial Day Weekend, the unofficial start of summer. You know what that means: it’s time to talk summer watches. We’re not really sure when the “Summer Watch” concept began in earnest, but every year, the community’s thoughts collectively turn to seasonally appropriate watches for the hot and sticky months. Are summer watches a watch media invention? It’s possible. But there’s no denying that some watches just work better in the warmer, sunnier weather. We’d never say you can’t wear a precious metal watch dress watch on a glossy leather strap in the middle of July, but somehow we all seem to know that a lightweight diver on a rubber strap just makes more sense. Here then, are the watches we anticipate getting the most time on our wrists this summer. Feel free to chime in in the comments below to let us know what you expect to be wearing most as the summer heat sets in. Devin Pennypacker A go-to summer watch could really only mean one thing to me, it’s dive watch season. Truthfully, it’s always dive watch season for me, but at least during this time of year, I have some justification. More likely than not, if you run into me this summer baking like a lizard on the beach, jumping through the cold waves like a child, or taking in some fresh air, prolonging my time in the park, I’ll most likely be wearing my Omega Planet Ocean 2200.50. I am sure I just shocked everyone with that out-of-character pick. Sure, I could have selected any dive watch...